The diary of John Evelyn

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JOHN EVELYN

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EDITED BY WILLIAM BRAY

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Everyman, | will go with thee, and be thy guide,
In thy most need to go by thy side.

This is No. 220 of Everyman’s Library

EVERYMAN’S LIBRARY

BIOGRAPHY

THE DIARY OF JOHN BVELIN
EDITED BY.WILLIAM. BRAY. - .PREEA-
"TORY NOTE BY GEORGE W..E. RUSSELL
IN 2 VOLS. VOLia

JOHN EVELYN, born in 1620 and educated

at Oxford. Travelled widely on the Con-

tinent. In 1642 joined the king as a

volunteer and after the Restoration was

employed in various matters by the Govern-
ment. Died in 1706.

THE SIARY OF JOHN EVELYN

VOLUME ONE

LONDON: J.°M. DENT .& SONS LID:
NEW SORK:.2..P. DUTION & COFINC.

All rights reserved
Made in Great Britain
by
The Temple Press Letchworth
for
J. M. Dent & Sons Ltd.
Aldine House Bedford St. London
First published in this edition 1907
Last reprinted 1950

PREFATORY NOTE

“I HAVE ventured to depict the Cavalier as not invariably a
drunken brute, and spiritual life and growth as not exclusively the
possession of Puritans and Ascetics.”

This is the account which the late Mr. J. H. Shorthouse gave of
his own handiwork in “John Inglesant,” and there is good reason
to suppose that many of its most characteristic touches were drawn
from the “ Diary of John Evelyn.” Since this book is a reprint of
that Diary, as edited by William Bray, and re-edited by Upcott
and Forster, there is no need to restate the chronology of Evelyn’s
life, or the history of his family, or the circumstances under
which his Diary was written. All this can be found in Bray’s
Dedication and Preface, and in Evelyn’s own “ Kalendarium.”
My endeavour is only to bring into prominence some personal
traits, as they appear in a narrative singularly free from artifice
and self-consciousness, and to trace in them the better elements
which went to compose the character of the ideal Cavalier. One
might strike anywhere into the Diary and choose the traits at
random; but we may as well follow the line of thought suggested
by my citation from Mr. Shorthouse.

The Cavalier was “not invariably a drunken brute.” Most true ;
and yet the contrary belief is deeply engraven on the popular mind.
That this is so was probably due, in the first instance, to the
shrewish abusiveness of Milton, who describes the attendants of
King Charles I. as “the ragged infantry of stews and brothels, the
spawn and shipwreck of taverns and dicing-houses.” Milton’s
cardinal defect was, as Matthew Arnold pointed out thirty years ago,
that he was “ unamiable ”—an epithet which certainly does not over-
colour the fact ; and whatever Milton’s unamiability prompted him
to write, that his prophet Macaulay accepted and proclaimed to
the world as unquestionable truth. “If the debauched Cavalier
haunted brothels and gambling-houses, he at least avoided con-
venticles. If he never spoke without uttering ribaldry and
blasphemy, he made some amends by his eagerness to send
Baxter and Howe to gaol for preaching and praying.” In this
glib and easy way the Whig disseminates, and, so to say, popularizes,

vil

Vili Prefatory Note

the Puritan’s conception of a Cavalier. Let us look into Evvelyn’s
Diary, and compare the presentment with the reality.

Nothing is more conspicuous in Evelyn than his dislike of
debauchery. In this he is consistent from first to last. Im 1641,
when he was not quite twenty-one, we find him dining with a cavalry
mess, and recording next day that “there was very good cheere, but
hot service for a young drinker as I then was.” In his “‘ Greate
Climacterical,” he “stole away and left the companie” when he
suspected that a dinner given by the Swedish Minister was to end
in a debauch. The bibulous housekeeping of a “humourous old
knight” he pronounces “barbarous, and much unbecoming a
knight, still lesse a Christian ;” and in another place he reprehends
“the barbarous custom of making the masters welcome by
intoxicating the servants.” He commends “Mr. Garmus, the
Resident from Hamburgh,” because, though “his feast continu’d
neere 9 whole hours,” there was “no greate excess of drinking,
no man being obliged to take more than he liked.”

But drunkenness was by no means the only offence which
disgusted him. He trounces with equal severity all the fashion-
able vices, and “rude and dirty pastimes.” Cock-fightimg, dog-
fighting, and bull-baiting he pronounced “butcherly sports, or
rather barbarous cruelties;” and, when “a very gallant horse was
baited to death with doggs,” he urged that “this wicked and
barbarous sport deserv’d to have ben punish’d in the cruel
contrivers.” It “afflicted him to see how the Stage was
degenerated and polluted by the licentious times.” He found
“the Revells at the Middle Temple an old and but riotous custome,
which had relation neither to virtue nor policy.” The banter of
the “ Terre Filius, or Universitie Buffoon,” at Oxford struck him
as “licentious lyeing, railing, and ribauldry.” “In my life I was
never witnesse of so shamefull entertainment.” The vicious habits
of the Court he condemned as unsparingly as those of social and
academic life. “Deepe and prodigious gaming, vast heapes of
gold squanderd away in a vaine and profuse manner” seemed
to him “a horrid vice, and unsuitable in a Christian Court,” |
and the characteristics of the royal circle were “luxurious dallying
and prophaneness.” These sentiments contrast oddly with that
conception of a Cavalier for which Milton and Macaulay were
responsible ; and even more characteristic of Evelyn is the passage
about the last days of Charles II., which the Whig historian stole,
and spoiled in the stealing—

Prefatory Note 1X

“TI can never forget the inexpressible luxury and prophanenesse,
gaming and all dissoluteness, and as it were total forgetfullnesse
of God (it being Sunday evening) which this day sen’night I was
witnesse of, the King sitting and toying with his concubines, Ports-
mouth, Cleaveland, and Mazarine, &c. A French boy singing love
songs, in that glorious gallery, whilst about twenty of the greate
courtiers and other dissolute persons were at Basset round a large
table, a bank of at least 2000/. in gold before them, upon which two
gentlemen who were with me made reflexions with astonishment.
Six days after was all in the dust!”

Enough has now been cited to establish Mr. Shorthouse’s
contention that the Cavalier was “not invariably a drunken brute,”
although he lived in an age distinguished by coarseness and
violence, and, after the Restoration, in a strong reaction against
the gloominess of Puritanism. Evelyn was, in all the best senses
of the word, a Cavalier—a preux chevalier, a loyal subject of
the King, a dutiful and devoted son of the English Church, an
accomplished and high-minded gentleman, as conspicuous for
purity as for all other manly virtues. Yet, though virtuous, he was
no Puritan. The peculiar charm of the better sort of Cavalier was
that, at a period when one half of England was debauched and
the other fanatical, he accepted culture and beauty and refinement
and enjoyment as divine gifts, and, in St. Paul’s phrase, used the
world as not abusing it. Such pre-eminently was Evelyn’s mode
of life, as set before us in his minute but unstudied Diary.
Debauchery in all its forms he abhorred, but he appreciated the
boons of a regulated and rational indulgence. His was that true
Temperance which is ewpoctvn, and saves the soul from “the
falsehood of extremes.”

A strain of innocent gaiety and refined enjoyment marks
Evelyn’s life from first to last. He was born of good family in a
comfortable home, and brought up by a “too indulgent Grand-
mother.” He persuaded his father to spare him “the severe
discipline of Eaton,” and his schooldays were spent at Lewes and
Southover—“ which perverseness he a thousand times deplored.”
He seems to have been a thoroughly idle boy; but he must have
had the substantial virtues of the schoolboy’s character, for, thirty
years later, he felt that he could trust his life to a schoolfellow’s
loyalty. He plotted with Colonel Morley, the Lieutenant of the
Tower, for the restoration of Charles II., relying on the fact
that “the Coll. had ben my schoolfellow, and I knew would not

1 4% *

x Prefatory Note

betray me.” At seventeen he went up as a “fellow commumner” to
Balliol, having been entered at the Middle Temple in the previous
year. He spent three years at Oxford, and did not overwork him-
self. He “was admitted into the dauncing and vaulting schole,”
and began to indulge that love of “ musiq” and “ musitians” which
contributed so much to the enjoyment of his life. But from music,
as from severer studies, he was “frequently diverted by inclinations
to newer trifles.” At twenty he came to live in London, in order
that he might read law at the Middle Temple, but he had no
taste for “that impolish’d study,” and spent his time in “ studying
a little, but dancing and fooling more.” As years went on, he
became a man of affairs, an important member of what we shou!d
now call the Permanent Civil Service, an industrious and well-
paid servant of the Crown and the nation; but neither the
cares of public business, nor the stupendous events of the time,
nor sorrows in his family, nor vicissitudes in his fortune, ever
inclined him to a dismal view of life, or crushed his faculty of
innocent enjoyment. He was, for his time, a prodigious traveller,
both in England and on the Continent; and wherever he journeyed,
even though his path was often beset with political and physical
perils, he carried with him the same lively appreciation of all that
was gay and good and beautiful. He is travelling with a friend in
France, and at Rohan “they indulge themselves with the best that
all France affords,” so that “their supper might have satisfied a
Prince.” ‘We lay that night in damask beds, and were treated
like Emperoors.” Next day they resume their journey. “Some-
times we footed it thro’ pleasant fields and meadows ; sometimes
we shot at fowls and other birds, nothing came amiss; sometimes
we play’d at cards, while others sung or were composing verses.”
In Italy these jocund wayfarers “bought for winter provisiom 3000 lb.
weight of excellent grapes, and pressed their owne wine, which
proved incomparable liquor.” But, on the ensuing Twelfth Night,
they “invited all the English and Scotch in Padua to a feast, which
sank our excellent wine considerably.” The host was in turn a
guest, and at Venice “was invited to excellent English potted —
venison.” Returning to England, he amused himself at “ Bristoll ”
with a “collation of fried eggs, and excellent Spanish wine.” Ata
dinner at Blackwall he drank some “canarie incomparably good.”
When he dined with the Governor of the Isle of Wight, he noted
the “excellent venison, fowle, fish and fruit.” When one of his
friends was raised to the episcopate, he enjoyed with equal zest the

Prefatory Note xi

Service of Consecration in the Abbey, and, after it, “one of the
most plentifull and magnificent dinners that in my life I ever saw
—it cost neare 600/. as I was inform’d.” But no partiality of
friendship blinded him to the demerits of home-made wine. “I
drank of the wine of Col. Blount’s vineyard, which was good for
little.”

Still, after all, life has other enjoyments besides the pleasures of
the palate, and, as long as they were innocent, our Cavalier appre-
ciated them all. He loved “a Consort of Musiq,” both vocal and
instrumental ; he loved portraiture and “ Mezzo Tinto” and “land-
skip ;” he loved architecture, both classical and “ gotig.” He loved
the “‘ Theater,” and lamented that it was ‘abused to an atheistical
liberty.” He had a keen eye for the beauties of scenery, and, as his
delightful Sy/va shows, was an enthusiast for gardening and
forestry. He had an insatiable interest in all scientific experi-
ments. He even enjoyed a dexterous dissection. He was a good
horseman and an admirer of horsemanship in others. He played
“Mall.” He could row, on occasion, for “twenty leagues.” He
liked shooting, hawking, and “hunting a fat buck,” a “sorel deer,”
or even “an hare from my Lord’s hare-warren.” He did not dis-
dain a bowling-match, a wrestling-match, a boat-race, or a horse-
race; and he was a critical observer of a “Ball or Masque.”
After dinner at a friend’s house, where “one Carew play’d in-
comparably on the Welsh Harp,” he “ treated divers Ladies of my
relations, in Spring Garden.”

But here we must turn to the second part of the text which I took
from Mr. Shorthouse—“ Spiritual life and growth [were] not ex-
clusively the possession of Puritans and Ascetics.". We have seen
that John Evelyn was no ascetic, as regards the legitimate pleasures
of human life. He was as far removed from the temper of Puritanism
as from that licentiousness which is sometimes supposed to be its
only alternative. Yet not Baxter or Calamy, or the best Puritan
of them all, was more consistently and conspicuously a Christian
in faith, speech, and act.

From first to last Evelyn was a loyal and zealous son of the
English Church, “as it stands distinguished from all Papall and
Puritan innovations, and as it adheres to the doctrine of the
Cross.” The phrase is that of Bishop Ken, whose preaching
Evelyn greatly admired, but it expresses his own feeling with
singular exactness. He had no sympathy with “ Sectaries,”
whether they were “ Pontificians,” as he called the Romanists,

xii Prefatory Note

Presbyterians, or Anabaptists; the Quakers he described as “a
new phanatic sect, a melancholy proud sort of people, and exceed-
ingly ignorant.” The Papists he condemned for talking “as if
nothing were Catholiq but the Church of Rome, no salvation out
of that, no reformation sufferable ; bottoming all their errors on
St. Peter’s successor’s unerrable dictatorship, but proving nothing
with any reason, or taking notice of any objection which could be
made against it.”

As against all these contrariant errors, Evelyn maintained, with his
apostolic friend Dr. Basire, that “the Church of England was for
purity of doctrine, substance, decency, and beauty, the most perfect
under Heaven, and that England was the very land of Goshen.”
“The Church of England,” he said in another place, “is certainly,
of all the Christian professions on the earth, the most primitive,
apostolical, and excellent ;” and, even at a moment when he thought
it likely that James IJ. would re-establish “ Poperie,” he recorded
his conviction that “the doctrine of the Church of England will
never be extinguish’d, but remaine visible, if not eminent, to the
consummation of the world.”

His belief in the Church was no mere matter of theory ; it was
in the highest degree practical, intimate, and methodical. Nothing
is his Diary is more noticeable than his devotion to the Blessed
Sacrament—his strictness in preparing for it, his thankfulness for
being allowed to receive it, his grief when it is withheld. He
auspicates every work of special importance or peril by receiving
it. When he recovers from sickness, or experiences any other
signal mercy, he makes it, in the strictest sense, his “ Eucharist.”
In order to regulate his spiritual life more exactly, he made
Jeremy Taylor his “ghostly father.” He ended each year and
began the next with special offices of devotion. Hecommemorated
with religious observances his birthday and the anniversary of his
baptism. He was scrupulous in keeping the Church’s feasts and
“the Holy Weeke,” and, when such observances were forbidden,
under civil penalties, by triumphant Puritanism, he procured
“orthodox sequestred Divines” to preach and celebrate privately
in his library.

All the outward pomp and circumstance of worship was dear t
him. Whether at home or abroad, he never failed to notice th
decoration and equipment of the churches. He observed an
described altars, vestments, pictures, sacramental plate, the “ chryst
vessels” in a foreign sacristy, and the incense burnt before th

eee

Prefatory Note X11

Communion Service in the Chapel Royal at Whitehall. After all
the alluring splendours of French and Roman worship, he returns
with devout complacency to St. James’s Church, in “ Piqudillo.”
“There was no altar anywhere in England, nor has there been any
abroad, more handsomely adorn’d.”

But the best of friends must part, and it is time to take our leave
of this devout and high-souled Cavalier. Through a long, prosper-
ous, and enjoyable life he dwelt habitually in the thought of the
final parting, and a fragment from his self-communings on that
transcendent theme may not unfitly close this sketch—

“T now (1682) began to looke over and methodize all my writings,
accompts, letters, papers ; inventoried the goods, and other articles
of the house, and put things into the best order I could, and made
my will; that now growing in yeares, I might have none of these
secular things and concerns to distract me when it should please
God to call me from this transitory life. With this I prepard
some special meditations and devotions for the time of sickness.
The Lord Jesus grant them to be salutary for my poore soul in that
day, that I may obtain mercy and acceptance.”

G. W. E. RUSSELL.
Midsummer, 1907.

SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY

THE State of France as it stood in the Ninth Year of this present Monarch,
Louis XIII., 1652 ; A Character of England, 1659 (perhaps 1651) ;; Apology
for the Royal Party, .... bya Lover of Peace and his Country, 1659; The
Late Newes from Brussels Unmasked and his Majesty Vindicated,, 1660; A
Poem upon his Majesty’s Coronation, 1661 ; Fumifugium, or the I:nconveni-
ences of the Aer and Smoak of London Dissipated, together with some
Remedies humbly proposed, 1661 ; Tyrannus, or the Mode, 1661 ; Sculpture,
or the History and Art of Chalcography and Engraving on Copper ;; to which
is annexed A New Manner of Engraving on Mezzotint, 1662, 175'5 ; Sylva,
or a Discourse of Forest Trees and the Propagation of Timber ; tio which is
annexed Pomona, an Appendix concerning Fruit Trees in Relatiom to Cider,
etc., 1664, 1669, 1679 (enlarged); 4th ed., with last correcttions, and
short Memoir, 1812; an abridged edition, ‘‘ Dendrologia,” ed. by J.
Mitchell, 1827; Kalendarium Hortense, 1664; 10th ed., 1706 (Sylva,
Pomona, and Kalendarium published together, 1670) ; Public Employment
and an Active Life preferred to Solitude, and all its Appanages, etc., 1667 ;
The three late famous impostors, Padre Ottomano, Mahomet Bei, and
Sabbatai Sevi, 1669; Navigation and Commerce, 1674; A Phiilosophical
Discourse of Earth relating to the Culture and Improvement: of it for
Vegetation, etc., 1676; Mundus Muliebris, or the Ladie’s Dressing-room
Unlock’d, etc. ; together with the ‘‘Fop Dictionary” (by his daughter),
1690 ; Numismata, a Discourse on Medals... with a Digression con-
cerning Physiognomy, 1697; Acetaria, a Discourse of Salle:ts, 1699;
Diary in ‘‘ Memoirs Illustrative of the Life and Writings of Johin Evelyn,
comprising his Diary from the year 1641 to 1705-6; and a selecition of his
familiar letters,” ed. by William Bray, 1818, 1819; ed. Upcott, 1827; ed.
from original MSS. at Wotton by W. Bray, 4 vols., 1850-52; new
edition, enlarged, Bohn, 1857; ed. in 4 vols., with Life, by H. B,
Wheatley, 1879.

Life of Mrs. Godolphin, ed. by Bishop Wilberforce (with notes by
J. Holmes), 1847, 1848 ; History of Religion; or a Rational Account of the
True Religion, ed. by R. M. Evanson, 1850. A few letters are «also extant
contributed to ‘‘ Phil. Trans.” and to the ‘‘ Gentleman’s Magazime.” '

The chief translations by Evelyn are:—Of Liberty and Servitude,
from the French of La Mothe Le Vayer, 1649; Essay on First Book of
Lucretius, ‘‘made English verse,” 1656; The French Gardemer, 1658,
1669, 1672, 1691; The Golden Book of St. Chrysostom, concerning the
Education of Children, 1659; Instructions concerning the Erection of a
Library, from the French of Naudé, 1661; second part of the ‘‘ Mystery
of Jesuitism,” 1664-65 ; Parallel of Ancient Architecture with the Modern,
with an account of Architects, and Treatise on Statues, by Allberti, from
the French of Fréart de Chambray, 1664, 1669, 1680, 1697; Idea of th
Perfection of Painting, 1668 (from the same); The Compleat Gardener,
with Directions for cultivating Fruit Gardens and Kitchen Gardens; from
the French of La Quintinfe, 1693, 1699, 1704, 1710.

Miscellaneous writings, collected by Upcott, 1825.

xiv

THE DIARY

JOHN EVELYN, F.R.S.

VOL I. 1620-1665

DEDICATION

TO JOHN EVELYN, ESQ.

OF WOTTON, IN SURREY
SIR,

THE last sheets of this Work, with a Dedication to the late LADY
EVELYN, under whose permission it was to be given to the Public,
were in the hands of the Printer, when it pleased God to release
her from a long and painful illness, which she had borne with the
greatest fortitude and resignation to the Divine Will.

These papers descended with the estate, from the celebrated
JOHN EVELYN, Esq. (a relative of your immediate ancestor), to his
great-great-grandson, the late Sir Frederick Evelyn, Bart. This
gentleman dying without issue, entrusted the whole to his Lady,
whose loss we have now to lament ; of whose worth, and of the
value of whose friendship, I have happily had long knowledge and
experience. Alive to the honour of the family, of which she was
thus made the representative, she maintained it in every point, and
with the most active benevolence ; and her care extended to every
part of the property attached to the domain. Mr. Evelyn had
formed in his own mind a plan of what he called an “Elysium
Britannicum,” in which the Library and Garden were intended
to be the principal objects: could he return and visit this his
beloved Seat, he would find his idea realized by the arrangement
and addition which her Ladyship had made to his library, and by
the disposition of the flower-garden and greenhouse, which she had
embellished with the most beautiful and curious flowers and plants,
both native and exotic.

In completion and full justification of the confidence thus reposed
in her, her Ladyship has returned the Estate, with its valuable
appendages, to the family in your person.

I have, therefore, now to offer these Volumes to you, Sir; with
a wish, that you and your posterity may long enjoy the possessions,
and continue the line, of a family so much distinguished, in many
of its branches, for superior worth and eminence.

I am, Sir,
Your most obedient,
And most humble servant,
WILLIAM BRAY.
Shere, 2nd Jan,, 1818,

PREFACE TO THE ORIGINAL EDITION (1818)

THE following pages are taken from the Journal of JOHN EVELYN,
Esq., author (amongst many other works) of the celebrated “ Sylva,”
a Treatise on Forest-Trees, and from which he has often been
known by the name of “The Sylva Evelyn.” The Journal is
written by him in a very small, close hand, in a quarto volume
containing 700 pages, which commences in 1641, and is continued to
the end of 1697 ; and from thence is carried on in a smaller book
till within about three weeks of his death, which happened 27th
Feb., 1705-6, in the 86th year of his age.

These books, with numberless other papers in his handwriting,
are in the valuable library at Wotton, which was chiefly collected
by him. Lady Evelyn, the late possessor of that very respectable
old Mansion, after much solicitation from many persons, consented
to favour the Public with this communication. The last sheets
were in the hands of the Printer, when the death of that Lady
happened.

The Editor, who has been entrusted with the preparation of the
work for the Press, is fully diffident of his competence to make a
proper selection ; and is even aware that many things will be found
in its pages which, in the opinion of some, and not injudicious,
Critics, may appear too unimportant to meet the public eye. But
it has been thought that some information, at least some amuse-
ment, would be furnished by the publication ; and it has been
supposed that some curious particulars of persons and transactions
would be found in the accompanying notes. Though those papers
may not be of importance enough to appear in the pages of an
Historian of the Kingdom, they may, in some particulars, set even
such an one right ; and, though the notices are short, they may, as
to persons, give some hints to Biographers, or at least may gratify
the curiosity of those who are inquisitive after the mode in which
their ancestors conducted business, or passed their time. It is
hoped that such will not be altogether disappointed.

Thus, when mention is made of great men going a/ter dinner to
attend a Council of State, or the business of their particular offices,
or the Bowling-Green, or even the Church ; of an Hours Sermon
being of a moderate length; of ladies painting their faces being a
novelty ; or of their receiving visits of Gentlemen whilst dressing,

xix

XX Preface

after having just risen out of bed; of the female attendant of a
lady of fashion travelling on a pillion behind one of the footmen,

and the footmen riding with swords ;—such things, in the view ©

above mentioned, may not be altogether incurious.

For many corrections and many of the Notes the Editor
acknowledges, with great pleasure and regard, that he is indebted
to James Bindley, Esq.,’ of Somerset-House, a Gentleman who
possesses an invaluable Collection of the most rare Books and
Pamphlets, and whose liberality in communications is equal to the
ability afforded by such a Collection.

* * * * * *

The Editor returns his best thanks alsoto Mr. Upcott, of the
London Institution, for the great and material assistance received
from him in this Publication, besides his attention to the
superintendence of the Press.

1 Since the First Edition of this Work, the Editor has to lament the loss
of this valuable Friend ; who died in the 81st year of his age, rxth Sept.,
1818, just as the printing of the Second Edition was begun.

INTRODUCTION TO THE ORIGINAL EDITION
(1818)

MR. EVELYN lived in the busy and important times of King
Charles I., Oliver Cromwell, King Charles II., King James II.,
and King William, and early accustomed himself to note such
things as occurred, which he thought worthy of remembrance.
He was known to, and had much personal intercourse with, the
Kings Charles II. and James II.; and he was in habits of great
intimacy with many of the ministers of these two monarchs, and
with many of the eminent men of those days, as well amongst the
clergy as the laity. Foreigners distinguished for learning, or arts,
who came to England, did not leave it without visiting him.

In the first edition of the “ Biographia Britannica,” in folio,
Dr. Campbell has given a long article relating to this gentleman.
Dr. Hunter, in his edition of the “Sylva,” in 1776, has copied
great part of what Dr. Campbell had written. Dr. Kippis added
several particulars in the Second Edition of the “ Biographia,” in
1793; and Mr. Chalmers gives some farther information in his
“ Biographical Dictionary,” in 8vo. (1816). But the following
pages will still contribute more extensive and important particulars
of this eminent man. They will show that he did not travel
merely to count steeples, as he expresses himself in one of his
Letters : they will develop his private character as one of the
most amiable kind. With a strong predilection for monarchy,
with a personal attachment to Kings Charles II. and James II.,
formed when they resided at Paris, he was yet utterly averse to the
arbitrary measures of these monarchs.

Strongly and steadily attached to the doctrine and practice of
the Church of England, he yet felt the most liberal sentiments for
those who differed from him in opinion. He lived in intimacy
with men of all persuasions ; nor did he think it necessary to break
connexion with any one who had ever been induced to desert the
Church of England, and embrace the doctrines of that of Rome.
In writing to the brother of a gentleman thus circumstanced, in
1659, he expresses himself in this admirable manner: “For the
rest, we must commit to Providence the success of times and
mitigation of proselytical fervours ; having for my own particular

xxi

XXii Introduction

a very great charity for all who sincerely adore the Blessed Jesus,
our common and dear Saviour, as being full of hope that God
(however the present zeal of some, and the scandals taken by
others at the instant [present] affliction of the Church of England ©
may transport them) will at last compassionate our infirmities,
clarify our judgments, and make abatement for our ignorances,
superstructures, passions, and errors of corrupt times and interests,
of which the Romish persuasion can no way acquit herself, what-
ever the present prosperity and secular polity may pretend. But
God will make all things manifest in his own time, only let us
possess ourselves in patience and charity. This will cover a
multitude of imperfections.”

He speaks with great moderation of the Roman Catholics in
general, admitting that some of the laws enacted against them
might be mitigated; but of the Jesuits he had the wery worst
opinion, considering them as a most dangerous Society, and the
principal authors of the misfortunes which befel King James II,
and of the horrible persecutions of the Protestants in France and
Savoy.

He must have conducted himself with uncommon prudence and
address: for he had personal friends in the Court of Cromwell, at
the same time that he was corresponding with his father-in-law,
Sir Richard Browne, the ambassador of King Charles II. at Paris;
and at the same period that he paid his court to the king, he
maintained his intimacy with a disgraced minister.

In his travels, he made acquaintance not only with men
eminent for learning, but with men ingenious in every art and
profession.

His manners we may presume to have been most agreeable: for
his company was sought by the greatest men, not merely by
inviting him to their own tables, but by their repeated visits to
him at his own house ; and this was equally the case with regard
to the ladies, of many of whom he speaks in the highest style of
admiration, affection, and respect. He was master of the French,
Italian, and Spanish languages. That he had read a great deal is
manifest ; but at what time he found opportunities for study, it is
not easy to say. He acknowledges himself to have been idle,
while at Oxford ; and, when on his travels, he had little time for
reading, except when he stayed about nineteen weeks im France,
and at Padua, where he was likewise stationary for several months,
At Rome, he remained a considerable time ; but, whilst there, he

Introduction XX111

was So continually engaged in viewing the great variety of interest-
ing objects to be seen in that city, that he could have found little
leisure for reading. When resident in England, he was so much
occupied in the business of his numerous offices, in paying visits,
in receiving company at home, and in examining whatever was
deemed worthy of curiosity, or of scientific observation, that it is
astonishing how he found the opportunity to compose the numerous
books which he published, and the much greater number of Papers,
on almost every subject, which still remain in manuscript ;! to say
nothing of the very extensive and voluminous correspondence
which he appears to have carried on during his long life, with men
of the greatest eminence in Church and State, and the most
distinguished for learning, both Englishmen and foreigners. In
this correspondence he does not seem to have made use of an
amanuensis ; and he has left transcripts in his own hand of great
numbers of letters both received and sent. He observes, indeed,
in one of these, that he seldom went to bed before twelve, or closed
his eyes before one o’clock.

He was happy in a wife of congenial dispositions with his own,
of an enlightened mind, who had read much, and was skilled in
etching and painting, yet attentive to the domestic concerns of
her household, and a most affectionate mother. Of her personal
attractions an idea may be formed from the print engraved from
a most exquisite drawing, in pencil, by that celebrated French
artist, Nanteuil, in 1650.

So many particulars of Mr. Evelyn have been given in the
“ Biographia Britannica,”? and in Mr. Chalmers’s valuable memoir
in the “ Biographical Dictionary,” that it is unnecessary to repeat
them; but some circumstances have been there omitted, and
others, which are mentioned, admit of elucidation, or addition.
Such it is proposed to notice here, in addition to the foregoing
personal sketch.

His grandfather, George, was not the first of the family who
settled in Surrey. John, father of this George, was of Kingston,
in 1520, and married a daughter of David Vincent, Esq., Lord of
the Manor of Long Ditton, near Kingston, which afterwards came
into the hands of George, who there carried on the manufacture of

1 Amongst these is a Bible bound in three volumes, the pages filled with
notes. See Bibliographical List in First Volume of this Edition for a list
of Evelyn’s published writings.

2 Second Edition, 1793, vol. v

XXIV Introduction

gunpowder. He purchased very considerable estates in Surrey,
and three of his sons became heads of three families, viz., Thomas,
his eldest son, at Long Ditton ; John at Godstone, and Richard at
Wotton. Each of these three families had the title of Baronet
conferred on them at different times, viz., at Godstone, in 1660;
Long Ditton, in 1683 ; and Wotton, in 1713.

The manufacture of gunpowder was carried on at Godstone as
well as at Long Ditton; but it does not appear that there ever
was any mill at Wotton, or that the purchase of that place was
made with such a view. Nor does it appear, from the words
quoted in the “ Biographia,” that Mr. Evelyn’s grandfather
planted the timber, with which Wotton was, and always has
been, so well stored. The soil produces it naturally, and, in
addition to what has been planted, it has at all times been carefully
preserved.

It may be not altogether incurious to observe, that though Mr.
Evelyn’s father was a man of very considerable fortune, the first
rudiments of this son’s learning were acquired from the village
schoolmaster over the porch of Wotton Church. Of his progress
at another school, and at College, he himself speaks with great
humility ; nor did he add much to his stock of knowledge, whilst
he resided in the Middle Temple, to which his father sent him,
with the intention that he should apply to what he calls “an
impolished study,” which he says he never liked. More will be
said of this in a subsequent page.

The “ Biographia” does not notice his tour in France, Flanders,
and Holland, in 1641, when he made a short campaign as a
volunteer in an English regiment then in service in Flanders.!

Nor does it notice his having set out, with intent to join King
Charles I. at Brentford; and subsequently desisting when the
result of that battle became known, on the ground that his brother's
as well as his own estates were so near London as to be fully in
the power of the Parliament, and that their continued adherence
would have been certain ruin to themselves without any advantage
to his Majesty. In this dangerous conjuncture he asked and
obtained the King’s leave to travel. Of these travels, and the

1 This expression is, perhaps, hardly applicable to the fact of Evelyn’s
having witnessed a siege merely as a curious spectator. He reached the
camp on the 2nd, and left it on the 8th of August, 1641. It is certain, —
however, that during these six days he took his turn on duty, and trailed a
pike.—See Diary, v. i. p. 20.

Introduction XXV

observations he made therein, an ample account is given in this
Diary.

The national troubles coming on before he had engaged in any
settled plan for his future life, it appears that he had thoughts of
living in the most private manner, and that, with his brother’s
permission, he had even begun to prepare a place for retirement
at Wotton. Nor did he afterwards wholly abandon his intention,
if the plan of a college, which he sent to Mr. Boyle in 1659, was
really formed on a serious idea. This scheme is given at length
in the “ Biographia,” and in Dr. Hunter’s edition of the “Sylva”
in 1776; but it may be observed that he proposes it should not be
more than twenty-five miles from London.

As to his answer to Sir George Mackenzie’s panegyric on
Solitude, in which Mr. Evelyn takes the opposite part, and urges
the preference to which public employment and an active life is
entitled,—it may be considered as the playful essay of one who,
for the sake of argument, would controvert another’ position,
though in reality agreeing with his own opinion; if we think him
serious in two letters to Mr. Abraham Cowley, dated 12th March
and 24th August, 1666, in the former of which he writes: “ You
had reason to be astonished at the presumption, not to name it
affront, that I, who have so highly celebrated recess, and envied it
in others, should become an advocate for the enemy, which of all
others it abhors and flies from. I conjure you to believe that I am
still of the same mind, and that there is no person alive who does
more honour and breathe after the life and repose you so happily
cultivate and advance by your example; but, as those who praised
dirt, a flea, and the gout, so have I public employment in that
trifling Essay, and that in so weak a style compared with my
antagonist’s, as by that alone it will appear I neither was nor could
be serious, and I hope you believe I speak my very soul to you.

‘Sunt enim Musis sua ludicra mista Camecenis
Otia sunt——’ ”’

In the other, he says, “I pronounce it to you from my heart as
oft as I consider it, that I look on your fruitions with inexpressible
emulation, and should think myself more happy than crowned
heads, were I, as you, the arbiter of mine own life, and could
break from those gilded toys to taste your well-described joys with
such a wife and such a friend, whose conversation exceeds all that
the mistaken world calls happiness.” But, in truth, Mr. Evelyn’s

XXVI1 Introduction

mind was too active to admit of solitude at all times, however
desirable it might appear to him in theory.

After he had settled at Deptford, which was in the time of
Cromwell, he kept up a constant correspondence with Sir Richard
Browne (his father-in-law), the King’s Ambassador at Paris; and
though his connexion must have been known, it does not appear
that he met with any interruption from the government here.
Indeed, though he remained a decided Royalist, he managed so
well as to have intimate friends even amongst those nearly con-
nected with Cromwell ; and to this we may attribute his being able
to avoid taking the Covenant, which he says he never did take. In
1659, he published “An Apology for the Royal Party ;” and soon
after printed a paper which was of great service to the King,
entitled “The late News, or Message from Brussels Unmasked,”
which was an answer to a pamphlet designed to represent the King
in the worst light.

On the Restoration, we find him very frequently at Court; and
he became engaged in many public employments, still attending
to his studies and literary pursuits. Amongst these, is particularly
to be mentioned the Royal Society, in the establishment and con-
duct of which he took a very active part. He procured Mr.
Howard’s library to be given to them; and by his influence, in
1667, the Arundelian Marbles were obtained for the University of
Oxford.

His first appointment to a public office was in 1662, as a
Commissioner for reforming the buildings, ways, streets, and in-
cumbrances, and regulating hackney-coaches in London. In the
same year, he sat as a Commissioner on an enquiry into the con-
duct of the Lord Mayor, &c., concerning Sir Thomas Gresham’s
charities. In 1664, he was in a commission for regulating the
Mint ; in the same year was appointed one of the Commissioners
for the care of the Sick and Wounded in the Dutch war ; and he
was continued in the same employment in the second war with
that country.

He was one of the Commissioners for the repair of St. Paul’s
Cathedral, shortly before it was burnt, in 1666. In that year, he
was also in a commission for regulating the farming and makin
saltpetre ; and in 1671, we find him a Commissioner of Plantation
on the establishment of the Board, to which the Council of Trad
was added in 1672.

In 1685, he was one of the Commissioners of the Privy Seal

Introduction XXVIi

during the absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who held that
office), on his going Lord Lieutenant to Ireland. On the founda-
tion of Greenwich Hospital, in 1695, he was one of the
Commissioners ; and, on 30th June, 1696, laid the first stone of
that building. He was also appointed Treasurer, with a salary of
200/. a year ; but he says that it was a long time before he received
any part of it.

When the Czar of Muscovy came to England, in 1698, proposing
to instruct himself in the art of ship-building, he was desirous of
having the use of Sayes Court, in consequence of its vicinity to the
King’s dock-yard at Deptford. This was conceded; but during
his stay he did so much damage, that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance
of 150/. for it. He especially regrets the mischief done to his
famous holly-hedge, which might have been thought beyond the
reach of damage. But one of Czar Peter’s favourite recreations
had been, to demolish the hedges, by riding through them in a
wheel-barrow.

October, 1699, his elder brother, George Evelyn, dying without
male issue, aged eighty-three, he succeeded to the paternal estate ;
and, in May following, he quitted Sayes Court, and went to Wotton,
where he passed the remainder of his life, with the exception of
occasional visits to London, where he retained a house. In the
great storm of 1703, he mentions in his last Edition of the ‘‘ Sylva,”
above 1000 trees were blown down in sight of his residence.

He died at his house in London, 27th February, 1705-6, in the
eighty-sixth year of his age, and was buried at Wotton. His lady
survived him nearly three years, dying 9th February, 1708-9, in
her seventy-fourth year, and was buried near him at Wotton. The
inscriptions on their tombs, and on those of his father and mother,
are subjoined. His personal character was truly amiable. In the
relative duties of father, husband, and friend, few could exceed him.

Of Mr. Evelyn’s children, a son, who died at the age of five, and
a daughter, who died at the age of nineteen, were almost prodigies.
The particulars of their extraordinary endowments, and the profound
manner in which he was affected at their deaths, may be seen in
these volumes, and cannot be read without exciting the most
tender emotions.

One daughter was well and happily settled ; another less so ; but
she did not survive her marriage more than a few months. The
only son who lived to the age of manhood, inherited his father’s
love of learning, and distinguished himself by several publications.

XXVIII Introduction

Mr. Evelyn’s employment as a Commissioner for the care of the
Sick and Wounded was very laborious ; and, from the nature of it,
must have been extremely unpleasant. Almost the whole labour
was in his department, which included all the ports between the
river Thames and Portsmouth ; and he had to travel in all seasons
and weathers, by land and by water, in the execution of his office,
to which he gave the strictest attention. It was rendered still
more disagreeable by the great difficulty which he found in procur-
ing money for support of the prisoners. In the library at Wotton,
are copies of numerous letters to the Lord Treasurer and Officers
of State, representing, in the strongest terms, the great distress of
the poor men, and of those who had furnished lodging and
necessaries for them. At one time, there were such arrears of
payment to the victuallers, that, on landing additional sick and
wounded, they lay some time in the streets, the publicans refusing
to receive them, and shutting up their houses. After all this
trouble and fatigue, he found as great difficulty in getting his
accounts settled.!. In January, 1665-6, he formed a plan for an
Infirmary at Chatham, which he sent to Mr. Pepys, to be laid before
the Admiralty, with his reasons for recommending it; but it does
not appear that it was carried into execution.

His employments, in connection with the repair of St. Paul’s
(which, however, occupied him but a brief time), as in the Com-
mission of Trade and Plantations, and in the building of Greenwich
Hospital, were much better adapted to his inclinations and pursuits.

As a Commissioner of the Privy Seal in the reign of King James
II., he had a difficult task to perform. He was most steadily
attached to the Church of England, and the King required the
Seal to be affixed to many things incompatible with the welfare of
that Church. This, on some occasions, he refused to do, particularly

1 and October, 1665, he writes to the Lord Chancellor, Lord Arlington,
Sir William Coventry, and Sir Philip Warwick, complaining of want o
money for the prisoners: praying that whilst he and his brother-Com-
missioners adventure their persons and all that is dear to them, in thi
uncomfortable service, they may not be exposed to ruin, and to a necessit
of abandoning their care ; and adding that they have lost their officers
servants by the pestilence, and are hourly environed with the sadd
objects of perishing people. ‘‘I have,” says he, ‘fifteen places full of
sick men, where they put me to unspeakable trouble ; the magistrates and
justices, who should further us in our exigencies, hindering the peopl
from giving us quarters, jealous of the contagion, and causing them to shw
the doors at our approach.”

Introduction XX1X

to a license to Dr. Obadiah Walker to print Popish books :! and
on other occasions he absented himself, leaving it to his brother-
Commissioners to act as they thought fit. Such, however, was the
King’s estimation of him, that no displeasure was evinced on this
account.

Of Mr. Evelyn’s attempt to bring Colonel Morley (Cromwell’s
Lieutenant of the Tower immediately preceding the Restoration)
over to the King’s interest, an imperfect account is given in the
“Biographia,” partly taken from the additions to “ Baker's
Chronicle,” which was published with a continuation in 1696.
The fact is, that there was great friendship between these gentle-
men, and Mr. Evelyn did endeavour to engage the Colonel in the
King’s interest.2_ He saw him several times, and put his life into
his hands by writing to him on 12th January, 1659-60; he did
not succeed, and Colonel Morley was too much his friend to betray
him: but so far from the Colonel having settled matters privately
with Sir Anthony Ashley Cooper, or General Monk,® as there
described, he was obliged, when the Restoration took place,
actually to apply to Mr. Evelyn to procure his pardon; who
obtained it accordingly, though, as he states, the Colonel was
obliged to pay a large sum of money for it. This could not have
happened, if there had been any previous negotiation with General
Monk.

There are some mistakes in the “ Biographia” as to Mr. Evelyn’s
Works.‘ Dr. Campbell, who wrote in the original edition, took
some pains to vindicate Mr. Evelyn’s book, entitled, “ Navigation
and Commerce, their Origin and Progress,” from the charge of
being an imperfect work, unequal to the expectation excited by the
title. But the Doctor, who had not the information which this
Journal so amply affords on this subject, was not aware that what
was so printed was nothing more than an Introduction to the
History of the Dutch War; a work undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at

1 Dr. Walker had been a member of the Church of England, but had
renounced it, and turned Papist.

4 [See references in the Diary to Colonel Morley as one of the Council
of State in 1652; and to Evelyn’s attempts to win him over. }

® Colonel Morley’s name is scarcely mentioned in the account of
General Monk’s conduct on this occasion, written by John Price,
D.D., (who was sent to him on the king’s behalf, and had continual
pict with him), published in 1680, and reprinted by Baron Maseres,

1815.

* [See the ‘* Select Biography” of Evelyn’s works, p. xiv.]

XXX Introduction

the express command of King Charles II., and the materials for
which were furnished by the Officers of State. The completion of
this work, after considerable progress had been made in it, was put
a stop to by the King himself, for what reason does not appear;
but perhaps it was found that Mr. Evelyn was inclined to tell too
much of the truth concerning a transaction, which it will be seen
by his Journal that he utterly reprobated. His copy of the History,
as far as he had proceeded, he put into the hands of his friend, Mr.
Pepys, of the Admiralty, who did not return it ; but as the books
and manuscripts belonging to Mr. Pepys passed into the possession
of Magdalen College, Cambridge, it was hoped it might be there
preserved. The Editor went to Cambridge for the purpose of
seeing it; and was favoured with access to the library, and with
the most obliging personal attendance of the Hon. Mr. Fortescue,
one of the Fellows of the College; but, after a diligent search for
several hours, it could not be found.

Dr. Campbell understood the “Mystery of Jesuitism” to be a
single volume; but there were three published in different years.
The translation of the second was undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at
the express desire of Lord Clarendon and his son, as appears by a
letter of Mr. Evelyn to Lord Cornbury, dated 9 February, 1664.
The third was translated by Dr. Tonge for Mr. Evelyn ; but a fuller
statement of this will be found in a note to one of the entries of the
Diary.!

In giving a list of his publications, the authors of the “ Biographia”
say, “As several of these treatises were printed before the author’s
return to England, and others without his name, we must depend
on the general opinion of the world, and the authority of Mr. Wood
for their being his ; yet there is no great reason to suspect a mistake.” 2
They add, “ We know nothing of the ‘Mundus Muliebris; or, the
Ladies’ Dressing Room unlocked,’ except that it has had a place i
the Catalogue of our Author’s Works, from which therefore we hav
no right to remove it.” §

There is no doubt of his being the author. Under 1685, Mr,
Evelyn, in his account of his daughter Mary, says, she “ put i
many pretty symbols in the ‘Mundus Muliebris,’ wherein is
enumeration of the immense variety of the modes and ormamen
belonging to the sex.”

1 Vol. i. p. 395.

9 Biog. Brit., vol. v., 2nd Edit., p. 611, note EK,
® Jbid., p. 624, note S.

Introduction XXX1

In a letter to Lord Cornbury, dated 9th February, 1664, he speaks
of having written a Play.

The authors of the “ Biographia” remark of his residence abroad,
that “ The account which Mr. Boyle received from Mr. Evelyn,! of
the method used by the Italians for preserving snow in pits, is an
admirable specimen of that care with which he registered his
discoveries, as well as the curiosity which prompted him to inquire
into everything worthy of notice, either natural or artificial, in the
countries through which he passed. It is much to be regretted
that a work so entertaining and instructive as a History of his
Travels would have been, appeared, even to so indefatigable a
person as he was, a task too laborious for him to undertake; for
we should then have seen, in a clear and true light, many things in
reference to Italy which are now very indistinctly and partially
represented ; and we should also have met with much new matter
never touched before, and of which we shall now probably never
hear at all.”?

What is thus said of Mr. Evelyn’s travels is partly supplied in
the present Diary, but not so fully as could be wished. That he
made many observations which will not be found here, appears by
the above quotation from Mr. Boyle; and by an account of the
manner of making bread in France, which he communicated to Mr.
Houghton, a Fellow of the Royal Society, who published it in some
papers which he printed in 1681, and following years.

From the numerous authors who have spoken in high terms of
Mr. Evelyn, we will select the two following notices of him.

In the “ Biographia,” Dr. Campbell says, “It is certain that very
few authors who have written in our language deserve the character
of able and agreeable writers so well as Mr. Evelyn, who, though
he was acquainted with most sciences, and wrote upon many
different subjects, yet was very far, indeed the farthest of most men
of his time, from being a superficial writer. He had genius, he had
taste, he had learning ; and he knew how to give all these a proper
place in his works, so as never to pass for a pedant, even with such
as were least in love with literature, and to be justly esteemed a
polite author by those who knew it best.”

Horace Walpole (afterwards Earl of Orford), in his Catalogue
of Engravers, gives us the following admirably drawn character

1 Boyle’s Works, vol. ii., p. 306.
® Biog. Brit., vol. v., p. 610, note D.
8 Jbid., p. 614, note I.

XXXIi Introduction

pp. 85,86: “If Mr. Evelyn had not been an artist himself, as 1 think

I can prove he was, I should yet have found it difficult to deny
myself the pleasure of allotting him a place among the arts he
loved, promoted, patronised ; and it would be but justice to inscribe
his name with due panegyric in these records, as I have once or
twice taken the liberty to criticise him. But they are trifling
biemishes compared with his amiable virtues and beneficence ; and
it may be remarked that the worst I have said of him is, that he
knew more than he always communicated. It is no unwelcome
satire to say, that a man’s intelligence and philosophy is inexhaust-
ible. I mean not to write his life, which may be found detailed in
the new edition of his ‘ Sculptura,’ in ‘ Collins’s Baronetage,’ in the
‘General Dictionary,’ and in the new ‘ Biographical Dictionary ;’
but I must observe, that his life, which was extended to eighty-six
years, was a course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction, and
benevolence. The works of the Creator, and the minute labours of
the creature, were all objects of his pursuit. He unfolded the per-
fection of the one, and assisted the imperfection of the other. He
adored from examination ; was a courtier that flattered only by
informing his Prince, and by pointing out what was worthy of him
to countenance ; and really was the neighbour of the Gospel, for
there was no man that might not have been the better for him.
Whoever peruses a list of his works, will subscribe to my assertion.
He was one of the first promoters of the Royal Society; a patron
of the ingenious and the indigent ; and peculiarly serviceable to
the lettered world; for, besides his writings and discoveries, he
obtained the Arundelian Marbles for the University of Oxford, and
the Arundelian Library for the Royal Society.—Nor is it the least
part of his praise, that he who proposed to Mr. Boyle the erectio:
of a Philosophical College for retired and speculative persons, ha
the honesty to write in defence of active life against Sir Georg
Mackenzie’s ‘ Essay on Solitude.’ He knew that retirement, in hi
own hands, was industry and benefit to mankind; but in those o
others, laziness and inutility.”

His son, Mr. John Evelyn, was of Trinity College, Oxford, an
when about fifteen years old, wrote that elegant Greek Poem, which
is prefixed to the second Edition of the “Sylva.” He translate
Rapin on Gardens, in four books, written in Latin verse. Hi
father annexed the second book of this to the second edition of hi
“Sylva.” He also translated from the Greek of Plutarch the li
of Alexander the Great, printed in the fourth volume of “ Plutarch’

Introduction XXXIli

Lives, by several Hands ;” and from the French, the History of the
Grand Viziers Mahomet and Achmet Coprogli. There are several
poems of his, of which some are printed in “ Dryden’s Miscellanies,”
and more in “ Nicol’s Collection of Poems.”

In December, 1688, he was presented to the Prince of Orange,
at Abington, by Colonel Sidney and Colonel Berkley ; and was
one of the volunteers in Lord Lovelace’s troop, when his Lordship
secured Oxford for the Prince. In 1690, he purchased the place of
chief clerk of the Treasury ; but, in the next year, he was by some
means removed from it by Mr. Guy, who succeeded in that office.
In August, 1692, he was made one of the Commissioners of the
Revenue in Ireland, from whence he returned to England in 1696,
in very ill health, and died 24th March, 1698, in his father’s
lifetime.

He married Martha, daughter and coheir of Richard Spencer,
Esq., a Turkey merchant, by whom he had two sons and three
daughters. The eldest son, and the eldest daughter, Martha-Mary,
and youngest daughter, Jane, died infants. The surviving daughter,
Elizabeth, married Simon Harcourt, Esq.,son of the Lord Chancellor
Harcourt. September 18th, 1705, the son John, who had succeeded
his grandfather at Wotton, married Anne, daughter of Edward
Boscawen, Esq., of the county of Cornwall ; and by letters patent
dated 30 July, 1713, was created a Baronet. He inherited the
virtue and the taste for learning, as well as the patrimony, of his
ancestors ; and lived at Wotton, universally loved and respected.
He built a library there, forty-five feet long, fourteen wide, and as
many high, for the reception of the large and curious collection of
books made by his grandfather, father, and himself, and where they
now remain. He was a Fellow of the Royal Society, was long the
first Commissioner of the Customs, and died 15th July, 1763, in the
eighty-second year of his age.

By his lady, who died before him, he had several children, and
was succeeded by John, the eldest, who married Mary, daughter of
Hugh Boscawen, Viscount Falmouth, and died 11th June, 1767, in
the 61st year of his age. He was Clerk of the Green Cloth to
Frederick Prince of Wales, father of George III., and to that King
when Prince of Wales, and after he came to the Crown. He
represented the borough of Helston in several Parliaments, and
to the time of his death. He had only one son, Frederick, who
succeeded to the title and estate, and three daughters. Of the
daughters, two died unmarried ; the third, Augusta, married the

| 220 B

XXXIV Introduction

Rev. Dr. Henry Jenkin, Rector of Wotton and Abinger; but she
died without issue. Sir Frederick was in the army in the early
part of his life; and was in 4Adliot’s Light-Horse, when that
regiment so highly distinguished themselves in the famous battle
of Minden, in Germany, in 1759. He married Mary, daughter of
William Turton, Esq., of Staffordshire, and, dying without issue in
1812, he left his estate to his Lady. She lived at Wotton, where
she fully maintained the honour and great respect which had so
long attended the family there. Her taste for botany was displayed
in her garden and greenhouse, where she had a curious collection
of exotic, as well as native shrubs and flowers. The library shared
her attention. Besides making additions to it, she had a complete
Catalogue arranged by Mr. Upcott, of the London Institution.

This lady by her will returned the estate to the family, devising
it to John Evelyn, Esq., descended from George Evelyn, the
purchaser of the estate in 1579.

The following are epitaphs to the memory of the writer of this
Diary, and part of his family, interred in the Dormitory adjoining
Wotton Church.

For his Grandfather, who settled at Wotton, on an alabaster
monument, written by Dr. Comber, Master of Trinity College,
Cambridge, and afterwards Dean of Durham :

DO? Me S:

Georgio Evelino, Arm. non mints
Vite et Morum exemplo, quam dignitate
conspicuo, quem plenum annis (inoffense

vitze decurso itinere, quale sibi opta-
verint Magni illi, qui inanem strepitum
tranquillitati posthabendum putarunt)
Mors immatura abstulit, namq ;
rebus omnibus, Deo omnia bené vertente,
affluens, quibus vita beata efficitur,
repetito non infelici delectu matrimo-
nio, Liberos ad filios 16 octoque
filias, pené octogenarius decessit senex :
Parenti charissimo, et bene merenti
Richardus Evelinus, filiorum natu minimus,
Monumentum cum carmine mecerens
posuit, quod non tam Patris vivo hominum
ore victuri, quam propriz Pietatis
testimonium esset.
Obiit 30 die Maii, An. Dom. 1603.
Aitatis suz 73.

Introduction XXXV

On another alabaster monument, are the figures of a man and
his wife kneeling, and five children ; below is this inscription .

Epitaphium
vere generosi, et prenobilis Vir, D, Richardi
Evelini armigeri, in agro Surriensi, hic
subter in terrA conditi.

Quem Pietas, Probitas, claris natalibus ortum,
Prolis amor dulcis, Vitaq. labe carens,
Religionis opus, quem Vota Precesq; suorum,
Et morum niveus candor, aperta manus,
Reddebant olim charum patrizeq ; suisq ;

Vertitur in cineres hac Evelinus humo,
Lector, ne doleas, cum sis mortalis, abito,
Et sortis non sis immemor ipse tuae,
Obiit Quinquagenarius
corporis statu vegeto, vicesimo die Decembris anno
Salutis humane
1640, Liberorum quing. Pater,
relictis quatuor superstitibus, tribus
scil. filiis cum
unica tantim filia.
Festinantes sequimur.

Qn another monument, fixed to the same wail:

To
the precious memory of
ELLEN EVELYN,
the dearly beloved wife of Richard Evelyn, Esq.,
a rare example of Piety, Loyalty, Prudence, and Charity,
a happy Mother of five Children,
George, John, Richard, Elizabeth, and Jane 3
who in the 37th year of her age,
the 22d of her marriage,
and the 1635th of Man’s Redemption,
put on Immortality,
leaving ber name as a monument of her perfections,
and her Perfections as a precedent for imitation.
Of her great worth to know, who seeketh more.
Must mount to Heaven, where she is gone before.

On a white marble, covering a tomb shaped like a coffin, ratsed
about three feet above the floor, is inscribed :

Here lies the Body

of JOHN EVELYN, Esq.,

of this place, second son

of Richard Evelyn, Esq. ;

who having serv’d the Publick
in several employments, of which that
of Commissioner of the Privy-Seal in the

Reign of King James the 2d was most

XXXVI Introduction

honourable, and perpetuated his fame
by far more lasting monuments than
those of Stone or Brass, his learned
and usefull Works, fell asleep the 27 day
of February 1705-6, being the 86 year
of his age, in full hope of a glorious
Resurrection, thro’ Faith in Jesus Christ.
Living in an age of extraordinary
Events and Revolutions, he learnt
(as himself asserted) this Truth,
which pursuant to his intention
is here declared—

That all ts vanity which is not honest,
and that there ts no solid wisdom
but in real Prety.

Of five Sons and three Daughters
born to him from his most
vertuous and excellent Wife,
Mary, sole daughter and heiress
of Sir Rich. Browne of Sayes
Court near Deptford in Kent,
onely one daughter, Susanna,
married to William Draper
Esq., of Adscomb in this
County, survived him ; the
two others dying in the
flower of their age, and
all the Sons very young, ex-

cept one named John, who
deceased 24 March, 1698-9,

in the 45 year of his age,
leaving one son, John, and

one daughter, Elizabeth.

On another monument at the head of, and like the former :

Mary EVELYN,
the best Daughter, Wife,
and Mother,
the most accomplished of women,
beloved, esteemed, admired,
and regretted, by all who knew her,
is deposited in this stone coffin,
according to her own desire, as near
as could be to her dear Husband
JOHN EVELYN,
with whom she lived almost
Threescore years,
and survived not quite three, dying
at London, the 9 of Feb. 1708-9,
in the 74th year of her age.

Introduction XXXVil

in the Church of St. Nicholas, Deptford, on the east wall, to the
south of the altar, is a marble mural tablet, with the following
imscription to the two children of Mr. Evelyn, whose early loss he
has so feelingly lamented in his Diary:

R. Eve yn, I. F.
Quiescit hoc sub marmore,

Una quiescit quicquid est amabile,
Patres quod optent, aut quod orbi lugeant ;
Genas decentes non, ut ante, risus

Lepore condit amplius ;

Morum venustas, quanta paucis contigit,

Desideratur omnibus.

Linguz, Latina, Gallica,

Quas imbibit cum lacte materno, tacent.

Tentarat Artes, artiumque principiis
Pietatis elementa hauserat.

Libris inhzesit improbo labore

Ut sola mors divelleret.

Quod indoles, quod disciplina, quod labor

Possint, ab uno disceres.

Puer stupendus, qualis hic esset senex
Si fata vitee subministrssent iter |

Sed aliter est visum Deo:
Correptus ille febricula levi jacet,
Jacent tot una spes Parentum !

Vixit Ann. V. M. V. III. super D.

Eheu ! delicias breves.

Quicquid placet mortale, non placet diu,
Quicquid placet mortale, ne placeat nimis.

Mary EVELYN,

eldest daughter of John Evelyn,
and Mary his Wife, borne the last day of
September 1665, att Wootton in
the County of Surrey. A beautifull
young woman, endowed with shining
Qualities both of body and mind, infinitly
pious, the delight of her Parents and Friends,
She dyed 17 March 1685 at the
age of 19 years, 5 months, 17 dayes,
regretted by all persons of worth
that knew her value.

A tablet adjoining the foregoing, is thus inscribed :

M. S.

Neere this place are deposited y* bodys
of Sir RICHARD BROWNE cf Sayes-Court in Deptford, Knt;
Of his wife Dame Joanna Vigorus of Langham in Essex,
deceased in Nov, 1618 aged 74 years.

XXXVIil Introduction

This Richard was younger son of the ancient family ai
Hitcham in Suffolk, seated afterwards at Horsly, in Essex, who
being
Student in the Tempe was by Robert Dudley, the great Earle of
Leicester,
taken into the service of the Crowne when he went
Governor of the United Netherlands, and was afterwards
by Queene Elizabeth made Clearke of the Greene Cloth,
which honorable office he also continued under King James
until the
time of his death, May 1604, aged 65 years:
Of Christopher Browne, Esq., son and heire of Sir Richard, who
deceased in March 1645, aged 70 years;

Of Thomasin, his wife, dat of Benjamin Gonson of Much Bado
in Essex, Esq. whose grandfather William Gonson, and father
Benjamin,
were successively Treasurers of the Navy to King Henry VIIL.,
touKo Edi Vi.;
to Queene Mary, and Q. Elizabeth ; and died June 163%, aged
75 years ;

Of Sir Richard Rrowne, Knt. and Baronet, onely son of
Christopher ;

Of his wife Dame Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Pretyman of
Dry-field in Glocester shire, who deceased v1 Octob!

1652, aged 42 years.

This Sir Richard was Gentleman of the Privy Chamber to
K. Charles y® First, and Cleark of the Council of his Maty, and to
K. Charles y° Second, and (after several foraigne and honorable
employments)
continued Resident in the Court of France from K. Cha. the I.
and
from K. Char. II4¢ to the French-Kings Lewes XIII. and
Lewes XIV. from
the years 1641 (the beginning of our un-natural civile-warr}
untill the happy
Restauration of K. Cha. y® II4 1660; deceased x11 Feb. As,
1682-3 aged 78 y's;
and (according to ancient custome) willed to be interred in this
place.

These all deceasing in the true Faith of Christ,
hope, through his merits, for a joyfull and blessed
Resurrection, X. A. P. D.

DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN

I was born (at Wotton, in the County of Surrey,) about
twenty minutes past two in the morning, being on Tuesday
the 31st and last of October, 1620, after my father had
been married about seven years,! and that my mother had
borne him three children; viz. two daughters and one son,
about the 33rd year of his age, and the 23rd of my
mother’s.

My father, named Richard, was of a sanguine com-
plexion, mixed with a dash of choler: his hair inclining
to light, which, though exceeding thick, became hoary by
that time he had attained to thirty years of age; it was
somewhat curled towards the extremities; his beard, which
he wore a little peaked, as the mode was, of a brownish
colour, and so continued to the last, save that it was some-
what mingled with grey hairs about his cheeks, which,
with his countenance, were clear and fresh-coloured; his
eyes extraordinary quick and piercing ; an ample forehead,
—in sum, a very well-composed visage and manly aspect :
for the rest, he was but low of stature, yet very strong.
He was, for his life, so exact and temperate, that I have
heard he had never been surprised by excess, being ascetic
and sparing. His wisdom was great, and his judgment
most acute; of solid discourse, affable, humble, and in
nothing affected; of a thriving, neat, silent, and methodical
genius ; discreetly severe, yet libera! upon all just occasions,
both to his children, to strangers, and servants; a lover of
hospitality; and, in brief, of a singular and Christian
moderation in all his actions; not illiterate, nor obscure,
as, having continued Justice of the Peace and of the
Quorum, he served his country as High Sheriff, being, as
I take it, the last dignified with that office for Sussex and

1 He was married at St. Thomas’s, Southwark, 27th January, 1613.
My sister Eliza was born at nine at night, 28th November, 1614;
Jane, at four in the morning, 16th February, 1616; my _ brother
George at nine at night, Wednesday, 18th June, 1617; and my
brother Richard, 9th November, 1622.—Note by Evelyn.

2 Diary of [Wotton

BE

Surrey together, the same year, before their separation.
He was yet a studious decliner of honours and titles ; being
already in that esteem with his country, that they could
have added little to him besides their burthen.? He was
a person of that rare conversation that, upon frequent
recollection, and calling to mind passages of his life and
discourse, I could never charge him with the least passion,
or inadvertency. His estate was esteemed about £4000
per annum, well wooded, and full of timber.

My mother’s name was Eleanor,? sole daughter and
heiress of John Standsfield, Esq., of an ancient and
honourable family (though now extinct) in Shropshire, by
his wife Eleanor Comber, of a good and well-known house
in Sussex. She was of proper personage; of a brown com-
plexion ; her eyes and hair of a lovely black; of constitution
more inclined to a religious melancholy, or pious sadness ;
of a rare memory, and most exemplary life; for economy
and prudence, esteemed one of the most conspicuous in
her country : which rendered her loss much deplored, both
by those who knew, and such as only heard of her.

Thus much, in brief, touching my parents; nor was it
reasonable I should speak less of them to whom I owe so
much.

The place of my birth was Wotton, in the parish of
Wotton, or Blackheath, in the county of Surrey, the then
mansion-house of my father, left him by my grandfather,
afterwards and now my eldest brother’s. It is situated in
the most southern part of the shire; and, though in a
valley, yet really upon part of Leith Hill, one of the most
eminent in England for the prodigious prospect to be seen
from its summit, though by few observed. From it may
be discerned twelve or thirteen counties, with part of the
sea on the coast of Sussex, in a serene day. The house is

1 Formerly the two counties had in general, though not invariably,
only one sheriff. In 1637, each county had its sheriff, and so it has
continued since.

2 In proof of Evelyn's assertion may be quoted an old receipt, found
at Wotton:

“Ra, the 29 Oct!. 1630, of Rich4 Evlinge of Wottone, in the countye
of Surr’ Esq; by waie of composic’one to the use of his Mate, bein
apoynted by his Mat Collecto’ for the same, for his Fine for no
appearinge at the tyme & place apoynted for receavinge order o
Kthood, the somme of fivetey pound I say receaved. Tuo. Crymgs.’

3 She was born 17th November, 1598, in Sussex, near to Lewes.

1620) John Evelyn 3

large and ancient, suitable to those hospitable times, and
so sweetly environed with those delicious streams and
venerable woods, as in the judgment of Strangers as well
as Englishmen it may be compared to one of the most
pleasant seats in the nation, and most tempting for a great
person and a wanton purse to render it conspicuous. It has
rising grounds, meadows, woods, and water, in abundance.

The distance from London little more than twenty miles,
and yet so securely placed, as if it were one hundred; three
miles from Dorking, which serves it abundantly with pro-
vision as well of land as sea; six from Guildford, twelve
from Kingston.! 1 will say nothing of the air, because the
pre-eminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil being
dry and sandy; but I should speak much of the gardens,
fountains, and groves that adorn it, were they not as
generally known to be amongst the most natural, and (till
this later and universal luxury of the whole nation, since
abounding in such expenses) the most magnificent that
England afforded; and which indeed gave one of the first
examples to that elegancy, since so much in vogue, and
followed in the managing of their waters, and other ele-
gancies of that nature. Let me add, the contiguity of five
or six manors,? the patronage of the livings about it, and
what Themistocles pronounced for none of the least advan-
tages—the good neighbourhood. All which conspire here
to render it an honourable and handsome royalty, fit for
the present possessor, my worthy brother, and his noble
lady,3 whose constant liberality gives them title both to
the place and the affections of all that know them. Thus,
with the poet :

Nescio qua natale solum dulcedine cunctos
Ducit, et immemores non sinit esse sui,

I had given me the name of my grandfather, my mother’s
father, who, together with a sister of Sir Thomas Evelyn
of Long Ditton, and Mr. Comber, a near relation of my

1 Eight, and fourteen; and from London a little more than twenty-
six measured miles.

2 Seven manors, two advowsons, and a chapel of ease (Sir John
Cotton’s).

3 Lady Cotton, widow, whom Evelyn’s elder brother, George, took
for his second wife, his first wife having died in 1644. After the
latter date, therefore, this portion of Evelyn’s ‘‘ Kalendarium ’’ must
have been written. See post, p. 13.

] 220 *R

4 Diary of [Wotton

mother, were my susceptors. The solemnity (yet upon
what accident I know not, unless some indisposition in
me) was performed in the dining-room by Parson Higham,
the present incumbent of the parish, according to the forms
prescribed by the then glorious Church of England.}

I was now (in regard to my mother’s weakness, or rather
custom of persons of quality) put to nurse to one Peter, a
neighbour’s wife and tenant, of a good, comely, brown,
wholesome complexion, and in a most sweet place towards
the hills, flanked with wood and refreshed with streams ;
the affection to which kind of solitude 1 sucked in with
my very milk. It appears, by a note of my father’s, that
I sucked till 17th January, 1622; or at least 1 came not
home before.?

1623. The very first thing that I can call to memory,
and from which time forward I began to observe, was this
year (1623) my youngest brother being in his nurse’s arms,
who, being then two years and nine days younger than
myself, was the last child of my dear parents.

1624. I was not initiated into any rudiments until near
four years of age, and then one Frier taught us at the
church-porch of Wotton: and I do perfectly remember the
great talk and stir about Il Conde Gondomar, now Ambas-
sador from Spain (for near about this time was the match
of our Prince with the Infanta proposed) ; and the effects of
that comet, 1618, still working in the prodigious revolu-
tions now beginning in Europe, especially in Germany,
whose sad commotions sprang from the Bohemians’ defec-
tion from the Emperor Matthias :3 upon which quarrel the

1] had given me two handsome pieces of very curiously wrought
and gilt plate.—Evelyn. ; :

2 The whole of this passage, so characteristic of the writer's tastes
and genius, and both the paragraphs before and after it, are printed
for the first time in this edition. Portions of the preceding descrip-
tion of Wotton are also first taken from the original; and it may
not be out of place to add that, more especially in the first fifty
pages of this volume, a very large number of curious and interest-
ing additions are made to Evelyn’s text from the Manuscript of the
Diary at Wotton.—_{WVote to 1850 Edition. }

Evelyn alludes to the insurrection of the Bohemians on the i2t
of May, 1618. The emperor died soon after, and the revolte
Bohemians offered the crown to the Elector Palatine Frederic, wh
had married Elizabeth, daughter of James 1.; whereupon there wa
great excitement throughout England, in consequence of the back:
wardness of the king to assist his son-in-law in the struggle for

1623-30] John Evelyn 5

Swedes broke in, giving umbrage to the rest of the princes,
and the whole Christian world cause to deplore it, as never
since enjoying perfect tranquillity. .

1625. I was this year (being the first of the reign of
King Charles) sent by my father to Lewes, in Sussex, to be
with my grandfather, Standsfield, with whom I passed my
childhood. This was the year in which the pestilence was
so epidemical, that there died in London 5000 a-week, and
I well remember the strict watches and examinations upon
the ways as we passed; and I was shortly after so danger-
ously sick of a fever, that (as I have heard) the physicians
despaired of me.

1626. My picture was drawn in oil by one Chanterell,
no ill painter.

1627.. My grandfather, Standsfield, died this year, on the
sth of February: 1 remember perfectly the solemnity at
his funeral. He was buried in the parish church of All
Souls, where my grandmother, his second wife, erected him
a pious monument. About this time, was the consecration
of the Church of South Malling, near Lewes, by Dr. Field,
Bishop of Oxford (one Mr. Coxhall preached, who was
afterwards minister); the building whereof was chiefly pro-
cured by my grandfather, who having the impropriation,
gave 2ol. a-year out of it to this church. I afterwards sold
the impropriation. I laid one of the first stones at the
building of the church.

1628-30. It was not till the year 1628, that I was put
to learn my Latin rudiments, and to write, of one Citolin,
a Frenchman, in Lewes. I very well remember that general
muster previous to the Isle of Rhé’s expedition, and that I
was one day awakened in the morning with the news of the
Duke of Buckingham being slain by that wretch, Felton,
after our disgrace before La Rochelle. And I now took so
extraordinary a fancy to drawing and designing, that I
could never after wean my inclinations from it, to the ex-

pense of much precious time, which might have been more
advantageously employed. I was now put to school to one
Mr. Potts, in the Cliff at Lewes, from whom, on the 7th of

kingdom, for which the people willingly, as Evelyn in a subsequent
page informs us, made ‘ large contributions.’? This is the ‘* talk
and stir '’ to which Evelyn has just alluded in connection with Count
Gondomar, whose influence had been used with James to withdraw
him from the Protestant cause.

6 Diar y of (Wotton

January, 1630, being the day after Epiphany, I went to the
free-school at Southover, near the town, of which one Agnes
Morley had been the foundress, and now Edward Snatt was
the master, under whom I remained till I was sent to the
University.1 This year, my grandmother (with whom I
sojourned) being married to one Mr. Newton, a learned
and most religious gentleman, we went from the Cliff to
dwell at his house in Southover. I do most perfectly re-
member the jubilee which was universally expressed for the
happy birth of the Prince of Wales, 29th of May, now
Charles the Second, our most gracious Sovereign.

1631. There happened now an extraordinary dearth in
England, corn bearing an excessive price; and, in imitation
of what I had seen my father do, I began to observe mat-
ters more punctually, which I did use to set down in a
blank almanack. The Lord of Castlehaven’s arraignment ?
for many shameful exorbitances was now all the talk, and
the birth of the Princess Mary, afterwards Princess of
Orange.

1632: 21st October. My eldest sister was married to
Edward Darcy, Esq., who little deserved so excellent a
person, a woman of so rare virtue. I was not present at
the nuptials; but I was soon afterwards sent for into Sur-
rey, and my father would willingly have weaned me from
my fondness of my too indulgent grandmother, intending
to have placed me at Eton: but, not being so provident
for my own benefit, and unreasonably terrified with the
report of the severe discipline there, I was sent dack to
Lewes ; which perverseness of mine I have since a thousand
times deplored. This was the first time that ever my
parents had seen all their children together in prosperity.
While I was now trifling at home, I saw London, where I
lay one night only. The next day, I dined at Beddngton,3
where I was much delighted with the gardens and curiosi-
ties. Thence, we returned to the Lady Darcy’s, at sutton;

1 Long afterward, Evelyn was in the habit of paying greit respect
to his old teacher. See ‘‘ Correspondence,’’ vol. iii. p. 95.

2 Mervyn Touchet, second Earl of Castlehaven; conviced by a
court of twenty-seven lords, with the Lord Keeper, sitting in West-
minster Hall, of crimes of the grossest description; and in pursuance
of their sentence, executed on Tower Hill, May 14, 1631.

5’ The ancient and once magnificent seat of the noble famiy of the
Carews.

1631-4] John Evelyn 7

thence to Wotton; and, on the 16th of August following,
1633, back to Lewes.

1633: 3rd November. This year my father was ap-
pointed Sheriff, the last, as I think, who served in that
honourable office for Surrey and Sussex, before they were
disjoined. He had 116 servants in liveries, every one
liveried in green satin doublets; divers gentlemen and per-
sons of quality waited on him in the same garb and habit,
which at that time (when thirty or forty was the usual
retinue of the High Sheriff) was esteemed a great matter.
Nor was this out of the least vanity that my father exceeded
(who was one of the greatest decliners of it); but because
he could not refuse the civility of his friends and relations,
who voluntarily came themselves, or sent in their servants.
But my father was afterwards most unjustly and spitefully
molested by that jeering judge, Richardson,} for reprieving
the execution of a woman, to gratify my Lord of Lindsey,
then Admiral :? but out of this he emerged with as much
honour as trouble. The king made this year his progress
into Scotland, and Duke James was born.

1634: 15th December. My dear sister, Darcy, departed
this life, being arrived to her 20th year of age; in virtue
advanced beyond her years, or the merit of her husband,
the worst of men. She had been brought to bed the 2nd
of June before, but the infant died soon after her, the 24th
of December. I was therefore sent for home the second
time, to celebrate the obsequies of my sister; who was

1 Made a Chief-Justice of the Common Pleas in 1626, and of the
King’s Bench in 1631. There is a :nonument to him in Westminster
Abbey. Fuller says he lived too near the time to permit him to speak
fully of him. One of his acts was an order against keeping wakes on
Sundays, which Laud, then Bishop of Bath and Wells, took up as an
infringement of the rights of bishops, and got him severely repri-
manded at the Council-table. He was owner of Starborouzh Castle,
in Lingfield, in Surrey.

* Robert Bertie, tenth Baron Willoughby d’Eresby, subsequently
created Earl of Lindsey, a Knight of the Garter. He was at different
times Lord High Chamberlain, Lord High Admiral, Constable of
England, and Governor of Berwick; and was general of the king's
forces at the breaking out of the Civil War. He was in command at
the Battle of Edgehill, in 1642; but, opposing Prince Rupert’s pre-
tensions, he surrendered a responsibility which the weakness of
Charles would have had him divide with a ‘‘ boy,’’ put himself at the
head of his regiment, fought with heroic gallantry, and fell covered
with wounds.

8 Diary of [Wotton

interred in a very honourable manner in our dormitory
joining to the parish church,! where now her monument
stands.

1635. But my dear mother being now dangerously sick,
I was, on the 3rd of September following, sent for to
Wotton. Whom I found so far spent, that, all human
assistance failing, she in a most heavenly manner departed
this life upon the 29th of the same month, about eight in
the evening of Michaelmas-day. It was a malignant fever
which took her away, about the 37th of her age, and 22nd
of her marriage, to our irreparable loss, and the regret of
all that knew her. Certain it is, that the visible cause of
her indisposition proceeded from grief upon the loss of her
daughter, and the infant, that followed it; and it is as
certain, that when she perceived the peril whereto its excess
had engaged her, she strove to compose herself and allay
it: but it was too late, and she was forced to succumb.
Therefore, summoning all her children then living (I shall
never forget it), she expressed herself in a manner so
heavenly, with instructions so pious and Christian, as made
us strangely sensible of the extraordinary loss then immi-
nent; after which, embracing every one of us, she gave |
to each a ring with her blessing, and dismissed us. Then,
taking my father by the hand, she recommended us to his
care; and, because she was extremely zealous for the
education of my younger brother, she requested my father
that he might be sent with me to Lewes; and so, having
importuned him that what he designed to bestow on her
funeral, he would rather dispose among the poor, she
laboured to compose herself for the blessed change which
she now expected. There was not a servant in the house
whom she did not expressly send for, advise, and infinitely
affect with her counsel. Thus she continued to employ her
intervals, either instructing her relations, or preparing of
herself.

Though her physicians, Dr. Meverell, Dr. Clement, and
Dr. Rand, had given over all hopes of her recovery, and
Sir Sanders Duncombe had tried his celebrated and famous
powder, yet she was many days impairing, and endured
the sharpest conflicts of her sickness with admirable
patience and most Christian resignation, retaining both her

1 Of Wetton.

1635~7] John Evelyn 9

intellectuals and ardent affections for her dissolution, to the
very article of her departure. When near her dissolution,
she laid her hand on every one of her children; and, taking
solemn leave of my father, with elevated heart and eyes,
she quietly expired, and resigned her soul to God. Thus
ended that prudent and pious woman, in the flower of her
age, to the inconsolable affliction of her husband, irrepar-
able loss of her children, and universal regret of all that
knew her. She was interred, as near as might be, to her
daughter, Darcy, the 3rd of October, at night, but with
no mean ceremony.

It was the 3rd of the ensuing November, after my
brother George was gone back to Oxford, ere I returned
to Lewes, when I made way, according to instructions
received of my father, for my brother Richard, who was
sent the r2th after.

1636. This year being extremely dry, the pestilence
much increased in London, and divers parts of England.!

1637: 13th February. I was especially admitted (and,
as | remember, my other brother) into the Middle Temple,
London, though absent, and as yet at school. There were
now large contributions to the distressed Palatinates.

The roth of December my father sent a servant to bring
us necessaries; and, the plague beginning now to cease,
on the 3rd of April, 1637, I left school, where, till about the
last year, I have been extremely remiss in my studies; so
as I went to the University rather out of shame of abiding
longer at school, than for any fitness, as by sad experience
I found: which put me to re-learn all that I had neglected,
or but perfunctorily gained.

roth May. I was admitted a Fellow-commoner of Baliol
College, Oxford; and, on the 29th, I was matriculated in
the vestry of St. Mary’s, where I subscribed the Articles,
and took the oaths: Dr. Baily, head of St. John’s, being
vice-chancellor, afterwards bishop. It appears by a letter
of my father’s, that he was upon treaty with one Mr.
Bathurst (afterwards Doctor and President), of Trinity
College, who should have been my tutor; but, lest my
brother’s tutor, Dr. Hobbs, more zealous in his life than
industrious to his pupils, should receive it as an affront,

1 In a letter to their father, written in this year, George Evelyn,

John’s elder brother, describes, with many curious personal details,
a Royal visit to Oxford University.

10 Diary of (Oxford

and especially for that Fellow-commoners in Baliol were
no more exempt from exercise than the meanest scholars
there, my father sent me thither to one Mr. George Brad-
shaw (nomen invisum! vet the son of an excellent father,
beneficed in Surrey).! | ever thought my tutor had parts
enough; but, as his ambition made him much suspected of
the College, so his grudge to Dr. Lawrence, the governor of
it (whom he afterwards supplanted), took up so much of
his time, that he seldom or never had the opportunity to
discharge his duty to his scholars. This I perceiving,
associated myself with one Mr. James Thicknesse (then a
young man of the foundation, afterwards a Fellow of the
house), by whose learned and friendly conversation I re-
ceived great advantage. At my first arrival, Dr. Parkhurst
was master; and, after his decease, Dr. Lawrence, a chap-
lain of his Majesty’s and Margaret Professor, succeeded,
an acute and learned person: nor do I much reproach his
severity, considering that the extraordinary remissness of
discipline had (till his coming) much detracted from the
reputation of that College.

There came in my time to the College one Nathaniel
Conopios, out of Greece, from Cyrill, the patriarch of Con-
stantinople, who, returning many years after, was made
(as I understand) Bishop of Smyrna. He was the first I
ever saw drink coffee; which custom came not into England
till thirty years after.?

After I was somewhat settled there in my formalities
(for then was the University exceedingly regular, under
the exact discipline of William Laud, Archbishop of Canter-
bury, then Chancellor), I added, as benefactor to the library
of the College, these books—‘‘ ex dono Johannis Evelyn,
hujus Coll. Socio-Commensalis, filii Richardi Evelyni, é
com. Surrie, armigr.’’—

Zanchi Opera, vols. 1, 2, 3.

Granado in Thomam Aquinatem, vols. 1, 2, 3.

Novarint Electa Sacra, and Cresolit Anthologia Sacra;
authors, it seems, much desired by the students of divinity
there.

Upon the 2nd of July, being the first Sunday of the

1 Rector of Ockham.

* Evelyn should have said ‘‘ till twenty years after,’’ mot thirty.

Coffee was introduced into England, and coffee-houses set up, in
1658.

1637-8) John Evelyn 1]

month, I first received the blessed Sacrament of the Lord’s
Supper, in the college chapel, one Mr. Cooper, a Fellow of
the house, preaching; and at this time was the Church of
England in her greatest splendour, all things decent, and
becoming the Peace, and the persons that governed. The
most of the following week I spent in visiting the Colleges,
and several rarities of the University, which do very much
affect young comers.

18th July. I accompanied my eldest brother, who then
quitted Oxford, into the country ; and, on the 9th of August,
went to visit my friends at Lewes, whence I returned the
12th to Wotton. On the 17th of September, I received the
blessed Sacrament at Wotton church, and 23rd of October
went back to Oxford.

5th November. I received again the Holy Communion
in our college chapel, one Prouse, a Fellow (but a mad one),
preaching.

goth December. I offered at my first exercise in the
Hail, and answered my opponent; and, upon the rrth fol-
lowing, declaimed in the chapel before the Master, Fellows,
and Scholars, according to the custom. The 15th after, |
first of all opposed in the Hall.

The Christmas ensuing, being at a Comedy which the
gentlemen of Exeter College presented to the University,
and standing, for the better advantage of seeing, upon a
table in the Hall, which was near to another, in the dark,
being constrained by the extraordinary press to quit my
station, in leaping down to save myself I dashed my right
leg with such violence against the sharp edge of the other
board, as gave me a hurt which held me in cure till almost
Easter, and confined me to my study.

1638: 22nd January. I would needs be admitted into
the dancing and vaulting schools; of which late activity
one Stokes, the master, did afterwards set forth a pretty
book, which was published, with many witty elogies before
it@

1 Now an extremely scarce book: the title of it is subjoined: ‘‘ The
Vaulting Master, or the Art of Vaulting; reduced to a method com-
prised under certain rules. Illustrated by examples, and now
primarily set forth, by Will. Stokes. Printed for Richard Davis,
in Oxon, 1665.’’ It is a small oblong quarto, with the author's
portrait prefixed, and a number of plates beautifully engraved (most

probably by Glover), representing feats of activity on horseback of a
somewhat extraordinary kind.

12 Diary of [Oxford

4th February. One Mr. Wariner preached in our chapel ;
and, on the 25th, Mr. Wentworth, a kinsman of the Earl
of Strafford; after which followed the blessed Sacrament.

13th April. My father ordered that I should begin to
manage my own expenses, which till then my tutor had
done; at which I was much satisfied.

oth July. I went home to visit my friends, and, on the
26th, with my brother and sister to Lewes, where we abode
till the 31st; and thence to one Mr. Michael’s, of Hough-
ton, near Arundel, where we were very well treated; and,
on the 2nd of August, to Portsmouth, and thence, having
surveyed the fortifications (a great rarity in that blessed
halcyon time in England), we passed into the Isle of Wight,
to the house of my Lady Richards, in a place called Yaver-
land; but we returned the following day to Chichester,
where, having viewed the city and fair cathedral, we
returned home.

About the beginning of September, I was so afflicted
with a quartan ague, that I could by no means get rid of
it till the December following. This was the fatal year
wherein the rebellious Scots opposed the King, upon the
pretence of the introduction of some new ceremonies and
the Book of Common Prayer, and madly began our con-
fusions, and their own destruction, too, as it proved in
event.!

1639: 14th January. I came back to Oxford, after my
tedious indisposition, and to the infinite loss of my time;
and now I began to look upon the rudiments of music, in
which I afterwards arrived to some formal knowledge,
though to small perfection of hand, because I was so fre-
quently diverted with inclinations to newer trifles.

20th May. Accompanied with one Mr. J. Crafford (who
afterwards being my fellow-traveller in Italy, there changed
his religion), I took a journey of pleasure to see the Somer-
setshire baths, Bristol, Cirencester, Malmesbury, Abing-
don, and divers other towns of lesser note; and returned
the 25th.

8th October. I went back to Oxford.

14th December. According to injunctions from the
Heads of Colleges, I went (amongst the rest) to the Con-

1 This passage appears first in this edition, but Evelyn saw reason

afterwards somewhat to change his tone. See among other passages,
vol. ii., pp. 211, 214.—[ Note to 1850 Edition. ]

1638-40} John Evelyn 12

firmatioon in St. Mary’s, where, after sermon, the Bishop
of Oxfoord laid his hands upon us, with the usual form of
benedicttion prescribed: but this, received (I fear) for the
more pzart out of curiosity, rather than with that due pre-
paratiorn and advice which had been requisite, could not
be so efffectual as otherwise that admirable and useful insti-
tution nmight have been, and as I have since deplored it.
1640:: 21st January. Came my brother, Richard, from
school, to be my chamber-fellow at the University. He
was adimitted the next day, and matriculated the 31st.
11th. April. I went to London to see the solemnity of his
Majestyy’s riding through the city in state to the Short
Parliarment, which began the 13th following,—a very
gloriouss and magnificent sight, the King circled with his
royal diiadem and the affections of his people: but the day
after I\ returned to Wotton again, where I stayed, my
father’ss indisposition suffering great intervals, till April
27th, when I was sent to London to be first resident at the
Middle: Temple : so as my being at the University, in regard
of thesee avocations, was of very small benefit to me. Upon
May the sth following, was the Parliament unhappily dis-
solved ;; and, on the 2oth I returned with my brother George
to Wostton, who, on the 28th of the same month, was
marriecd at Albury to Mrs. Caldwell (an heiress of an ancient
Leicesttershire family,! where part of the nuptials was
celebraited.
roth: June. I repaired with my brother to the term, to
go intco our new lodgings (that were formerly in Essex-
court),, being a very handsome apartment just over against
the Heall-court, but four pair of stairs high, which gave
us the advantage of the fairer prospect; but did not much
contriboute to the love of that impolished study, to which
(I supppose) my father had designed me, when he paid 145].
to purcchase our present lives, and assignments afterwards.
Loncdon, and especially the Court, were at this period in
frequernt disorders, and great insolences were committed by
the aboused and too happy City: in particular, the Bishop
of Carnterbury’s Palace at Lambeth was assaulted by a
rude rzabble from Southwark, my Lord Chamberlain impri-
soned,, and many scandalous libels and invectives scattered
1 A cdaughter of Daniel Caldwell, Esq., by Mary, daughter of

George» Duncomb, Esq., of Albury. She died 15th May, 1644, and
he afterrwards married the widow of Sir John Cotton.

14 Diary of (London

about the streets, to the reproach of Government, and
the fermentation of our since distractions: so that, upon
the 25th of June, I was sent for to Wotton, and the 27th
after, my father’s indisposition augmenting, by advice of
the physicians he repaired to the Bath.

7th July. My brother George and I, understanding the
peril my father was in upon a sudden attack of his infirmity,
rode post from Guildford towards him, and found him
extraordinary weak; yet so as that, continuing his course,
he held out till the 8th of September, when I returned home
with him in his litter.

15th October. I went to the Temple, it being Michael-
mas Term.

30th. I saw his Majesty (coming from his Northern
Expedition) ride in pomp and a kind of ovation, with all
the marks of a happy peace, restored to the affections of
his people, being conducted through London with a most
splendid cavalcade; and, on the 3rd November following
(a day never to be mentioned without a curse), to that long
ungrateful, foolish, and fatal Parliament, the beginning of
all our sorrows for twenty years after, and the period of the
most happy monarch in the world: Quis talia fando!

But my father being by this time entered into a dropsy,
an indisposition the most unsuspected, being a person so
exemplarily temperate, and of admirable regimen, hastened
me back to Wotton, December the 12th; where, the 24th
following, between twelve and one o’clock at noon, de-
parted this life that excellent man and indulgent parent,
retaining his senses and piety to the last, which he most
tenderly expressed in blessing us, whom he now left to the
world and the worst of times, whilst he was taken from the
evil to come.

1641. It was a sad and lugubrious beginning of the
year, when, on the 2nd of January, 1640-1, we at night
followed the mourning hearse to the church at Wotton;
when, after a sermon and funeral oration by the minister,
my father was interred near his formerly erected monu-
ment, and mingled with the ashes of our mother, his dear
wife. Thus we were bereft of both our parents in a period
when we most of all stood in need of their counsel and
assistance, especially myself, of a raw, vain, uncertain,
and very unwary inclination : but so it pleased God to make
trial of my conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest and

1641) John Evelyn 15

most prodigious hazard that ever the youth of England
saw; and, if I did not amidst all this impeach my liberty
nor my virtue with the rest who made shipwreck of both,
it was more the infinite goodness and mercy of God than
the least providence or discretion of mine own, who now
thought of nothing but the pursuit of vanity, and the
confused imaginations of young men.

1sth April. I repaired to London to hear and see the
famous trial of the Earl of Strafford, Lord-Deputy of Ire-
land, who, on the 22nd of March, had been summoned
before both Houses of Parliament, and now appeared in
Westminster-hall,! which was prepared with scaffolds for
the Lords and Commons, who, together with the King,
Queen, Prince, and flower of the noblesse, were spectators
and auditors of the greatest malice and the greatest inno-
cency that ever met before so illustrous an assembly. It
was Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey, Earl Marshal of
England, who was made High Steward upon this occasion ;
and the sequel is too well known to need any notice of the
event.

On the 27th April, came over out of Holland the young
Prince of Orange, with a splendid equipage, to make love
to his Majesty’s eldest daughter, the now Princess Royal.

That evening, was celebrated the pompous funeral of the
Duke of Richmond, who was carried in effigy, with all the
ensigns of that illustrious family, in an open chariot, in
great solemnity, through London to Westminster Abbey.

On the 12th of May, I beheld on Tower-hill the fata!
stroke which severed the wisest head in England from the
shoulders of the Earl of Strafford, whose crime coming
under the cognizance of no human law or statute, a new
one was made, not to be a precedent, but his destruction.
With what reluctancy the King signed the execution,
he has sufficiently expressed; to which he imputes his

1 On the 15th April Strafford made his eloquent defence, which it
seems to have been Evelyn's good fortune to be present at. And here
the reader may remark the fact, not without significance, that
between the entries on this page of the Diary which relate to Lord
Strafford, the young Prince of Orange came over to make love to
the Princess Royal, then twelve years old; and that the marriage was
subsequently celebrated amid extraordinary Court rejoicings and
festivities, in which the King tcok a prominent part, during the short
interwal which elapsed between the sentence and execution of the
King's great and unfortunate minister.

16 Diary of {Wottoa

own unjust suffering—to such exorbitancy were things
arrived.

On the 24th May, I returned to Wotton; and, on the
28th of June, I went to London with my sister Jane, and
the day after sat to one Vanderborcht ! for my picture in oil,
at Arundel-house, whose servant that excellent painter was,
brought out of Germany when the Earl returned from
Vienna (whither he was sent Ambassador-extraordinary,
with great pomp and charge, though without any effect,
through the artifice of the Jesuited Spaniard, who governed
all in that conjuncture). With Vanderborcht, the painter,
he brought over Winceslaus Hollar, the sculptor,? who en-
graved not only the unhappy Deputy’s trial in Westminster-
hall, but his decapitation; as he did several other historical
things, then relating to the accidents happening during the
Rebellion in England, with great skill; besides many cities,
towns, and landscapes, not only of this nation, but of
foreign parts, and divers portraits of famous persons then
in being; and things designed from the best pieces of the
rare paintings and masters of which the Earl of Arundel
was possessor, purchased and collected in his travels with
incredible expense: so as, though Hollar’s were but etched
in aqua-fortis, I account the collection to be the most
authentic and useful extant. Hollar was the son of a
gentleman near Prague, in Bohemia, and my very good
friend, perverted at last by the Jesuits at Antwerp to
change his religion; a very honest, simple, well-meaning
man, who at last came over again into England, where he

1 Henry Vanderborcht, a painter, of Brussels, lived at Franken-
dale. Lord Arundel, finding Vanderborcht’s son Henry at Frankfort,
sent him to Mr. Petty, then collecting for him in Italy, and after-
wards kept him in his service as long as he lived. Wanderborcht, the
younger, was both painter and engraver; he drew many of the
Arundelian curiosities, and etched several things both in that and the
Royal Collection. A book of his drawings from the former, contain-
ing 567 pieces, is preserved at Paris; and is described in the catalogue
of L'Orangerie, p. 199. After the death of the Earl, the younger
Henry entered into the service of the Prince of Wales, afterwards
Charles II., and lived in esteem in London for a considerable time;
but returned to Antwerp, and died there.

2 Winceslaus Hollar was born at Prague in Bohemia, in the year
1607, and came to England in the suite of the Earl of Arundel, in the
year 1636. In the troubles he distinguished himself as a Royalist,
for which he was imprisoned by the Parliament. He escaped to the

continent, but returned at the Restoration, and died in great distress,
March 28th, 1677.

1641] John Evelyn i

died. We have the whole history of the king’s reign, from
his trial in Westminster-hall and before, to the restoration
of King Charles II., represented in several sculptures, with
that also of Archbishop Laud, by this indefatigable artist ;
besides innumerable sculptures in the works of Dugdale,
Ashmole, and other historical and useful works. 1 am
the more particular upon this for the fruit of that collection,
which I wish I had entire.

This picture} I presented to my sister, being at her
request, on my resolution to absent myself from this ill
face of things at home, which gave umbrage to wiser than
myself that the medal was reversing, and our calamities
but yet in their infancy: so that, on the 15th of July,
having procured a pass at the Custom-house, where |
repeated my oath of allegiance, I went from London to
Gravesend, accompanied with one Mr. Caryll, a Surrey
gentleman, and our servants, where we arrived by six
o’clock that evening, with a purpose to take the first
opportunity of a passage for Holland. But the wind as
yet not favourable, we had time to view the Block-house
of that town, which answered to another over against it
at Tilbury, famous for the rendezvous of Queen Elizabeth,
in the year 1588, which we found stored with twenty pieces
of cannon, and other ammunition proportionable. On the
19th July, we made a short excursion to Rochester, and
having seen the cathedral, went to Chatham to see the
Royal Sovereign, a glorious vessel of burden lately built
there, being for defence and ornament, the richest that
ever spread cloth before the wind.? She carried an hun-
dred brass cannon, and was 1200 tons; a rare sailer, the
work of the famous Phineas Pett, inventor of the frigate-
fashion of building, to this day practised. But what is
to be deplored as to this vessel is, that it cost his Majesty
the affections of his subjects, perverted by the malcontent
great omes, who took occasion to quarrel for his having
raised a very slight tax for the building of this, and equip-
ping the rest of the navy, without an act of Parliament;
though, by the suffrages of the major part of the Judges
the King might legally do in times of imminent danger, of
which his Majesty was best apprised. But this not satisfvy-
ing a jealous party, it was condemned as unprecedential,

1 His own portrait.
2 Accidentally burnt at Chatham, in 1696.

18 Diary of [Finshing

and not justifiable as to the Royal prerogative; and,
accordingly, the Judges were removed out of their places,
fined, and imprisoned.}

We returned again this evening, and on the a2ist July
embarked in a Dutch frigate, bound for Flushing, con-
voyed and accompanied by five other stout vessels, whereof
one was a man-of-war. The next day, at noon, we landed
at Flushing.

Being desirous to overtake the Leagure,? which was
then before Genep,? ere the summer should be too far
spent, we went this evening from Flushing to Middleburg,
another fine town in this island, to De Vere, whence the
most ancient and illustrious Earls of Oxford derive their
family, who have spent so much blood in assisting the
state during their wars. From De Vere we passed over
many towns, houses, and ruins of demolished suburbs, &c.,
which have formerly been swallowed up by the sea; at
what time no less than eight of those islands have been
irrecoverably lost.

The next day, we arrived at Dort, the first town of
Holland, furnished with all German commodities, and
especially Rhenish wines and timber. It hath almost at
the extremity a very spacious and venerable church; a
stately senate house, wherein was holden that famous
synod against the Arminians in 1618; and in that hail
hangeth a picture of ‘‘ The Passion,’’ an exceeding rare
and much-esteemed piece.

From Dort, being desirous to hasten towards the army,
I took waggon this afternoon to Rotterdam, whither we

1 In such manner Evelyn refers to the tax of Ship-money. But
compare this remarkable passage, now first printed from the original,
with the tone in which, eight years later, he spoke of the only
chance by which monarchy in England might be saved; namely, that
of ‘‘ doing nothing as to Government but what shall be approved by
the old way of a free parliament, and the known laws of the land.”
See ‘‘ Correspondence,’’ vol. iii., p. 41.—[2Vote to 1850 Eattion.]

2 The meaning of this expression is, that they should be in time
to witness the siege.

3 On the Waal,—a place which, having been greatly strengthened
by the Cardinal Infante D. Fernando, in 1635, was at this time
besieged by the French and Dutch. There is a full account of the
siege in the great work of Aitzema, a man who with extraordinary
patience compiled materials for the history of the United Provinces,
during the greater part of the seventeenth century. One of his
brothers was mortally wounded at this siege.

1647] John Evelyn 19

were hurried in less than an hour, though it be ten miles
distant ; so furiously do those Foremen drive. I went first
to visit the great church, the Doole, the Bourse, and the
public statue of the learned Erasmus, of brass. They
showed us his house, or rather the mean cottage, wherein
he was born, over which there are extant these lines, in
capital letters :

AZDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS ARTIBUS,
INGENIO, RELIGIONE, FIDE.

The 26th July, I passed by a straight and commodious
river through Delft to the Hague; in which journey I
observed divers leprous poor creatures dwelling in solitary
huts om the brink of the water, and permitted to ask the
charity of passengers, which is conveyed to them in a
floating box that they cast out.

Arrived at the Hague, I went first to the Queen of
Bohemia’s court,! where I had the honour to kiss her
Majesty’s hand, and several of the Princesses’, her daugh-
ters. Prince Maurice was also there, newly come out of
Germany; and my Lord Finch,? not long before fled out
of England from the fury of the Parliament. It was a
fasting day with the Queen for the unfortunate death of
her husband, and the presence chamber had been hung
with bllack velvet ever since his decease.

The 28th July I went to Leyden; and the 29th to Utrecht,
being thirty English miles distant (as they reckon by
hours). It was now Kermas, or a fair, in this town, the
streets swarming with boors and rudeness, so that early
the next morning, having visited the ancient Bishop’s
court, and the two famous churches, I satisfied my curi-
osity till my return, and better leisure. We then came to

1 Elizabeth, daughter of James I., mother of the princes Maurice
and Rupert; her youngest daughter was Sophia, Electoress of
Hanover, whose eldest son was George I. A carefully written life of
this Primcess, who was not less remarkable for her beauty and spirit,
than for her misfortunes, has been lately written, with illustrations
drawn firom her unpublished correspondence, by Mrs. Everett Green,
in The Princesses of England, vols. v. and vi.

2 Sir John Finch, Speaker of the House of Commons in 1627;
Attorney-General to the Queen (Henrietta Maria) in 1635; the follow-
ing year promoted to be Judge of the Common Pleas; afterwards
Lord Clhief Justice; thence promoted to be Lord Keeper of the
Great Seal in 1637; and in April, 1640, advanced to the peerage as
Baron Fimch. He died in 1660.

20 Diary of {Rynen

Rynen, where the Queen of Bohemia hath a neat and weli-
built palace, or country-house, after the Italian manner, as
{ remember; and so, crossing the Rhine, upon which this
villa is situated, lodged that night in a countryman’s house.
The 31st to Nimeguen; and on the 2nd of August we
arrived at the Leagure, where was then the whole army
encamped about Genep, a very strong castle situated on
the river Waal; but, being taken four or five days before,
we had only a sight of the demolitions. The next Sunday
was the thanksgiving sermons performed in Colonel
Goring’s} regiment (eldest son of the since Earl of Nor-
wich) by Mr. Goffe, his chaplain (now turned Roman, and
father-confessor to the Queen-mother). The evening was
spent in firing cannon and other expressions of military
triumphs.

Now, according to the compliment, I was received a
volunteer in the company of Captain Apsley, of whose
Captain-lieutenant, Honywood (Apsley being absent), |
received many civilities.

The 3rd August, at night, we rode about the lines of
circumvallation, the general being then in the field. The
next day, I was accommodated with a very spacious and
commodious tent for my lodging; as before I was with a
horse, which I had at command, and a hut which during
the excessive heats was a great convenience; for the sun
piercing the canvass of the tent, it was during the day
unsufferable, and at night not seldom infested with mists
and fogs, which ascended from the river.

6th August. As the turn came about, we were ordered
to watch on a horn-work near our quarters, and trail a
pike, being the next morning relieved by a company of
French. This was our continual duty till the castle was
re-fortified, and all danger of quitting that station secured ;
whence [ went to see a Convent of Franciscan Friars, not
far from our quarters, where we found both the chapel and
refectory full, crowded with the goods of such poor people

1 This was George, distinguished in the Civil Wars as General
Goring, for his military services in the cause of the King. He subse-
quently obtained additional reputation as a lieutenant-generai in the
army of the King of Spain employed in the Netherlands. He was
the eldest son of Sir George Goring, in 1632 created Baron Goring,
and in 1644 raised to the Earldom of Norwich, for his services to

Charles I., before and after the troubles. General Goring died before
his father, in 1662. (See ‘‘ Correspondence,”’ vol. iii. p. 139.)

2641) John Evelyn 21

as at the approach of the army had fled with them thither
for samctuary. On the day following, I went to view all
the tremches, approaches, and mines, &c. of the besiegers ;
and, wun particular, I took special notice of the wheel-
bridge, which engine his Excellency had made to run over
the moat when they stormed the castle; as it is since
described (with all the other particulars of this siege) by
the author of that incomparable work, ‘‘ Hollandia Illus-
trata.’” The walls and ramparts of earth, which a mine
had broken and crumbled, were of prodigious thickness.

Upom the 8th August, I dined in the horse-quarters with
Sir Robert Stone and his lady, Sir William Stradling, and
divers Cavaliers; where there was very good cheer, but hot
service for a young drinker, as then I was; so that, being
pretty well satisfied with the confusion of armies and
sieges (if such that of the United Provinces may be called,
where their quarters and encampments are so admirably
regular, and orders so exactly observed, as few cities, the
best governed in time of peace, exceed it for all con-
veniences), I took my leave of the Leagure and Camerades;
and, om the 12th of August, I embarked on the Waal, in
compamy with three grave divines, who entertained us a
great part of our passage with a long dispute concerning
the lawfulness of church-music. We now sailed by Teil,
where we landed some of our freight; and about five
o’clock we touched at a pretty town named Bommell, that
had divers English in garrison. It stands upon Contribu-
tion-lamd, which subjects the environs to the Spanish
incursions. We sailed also by an exceeding strong fort
called Lovestein, famous for the escape of the learned
Hugo Grotius, who, being in durance vile as a capital
offender, as was the unhappy Barneveldt, by the stratagem
of his lady, was conveyed in a trunk supposed to be filled
with bowks only. We lay at Gorcum, a very strong and
considerable frontier.

13th August. We arrived late at Rotterdam, where was
their ammual mart or fair, so furnished with pictures (especi-
ally landscapes and drolleries, as they call those clownish
represemtations), that I was amazed. Some of these I
bought, and sent into England. The reason of this store
of pictures, and their cheapness, proceeds from their want
of land to employ their stock, so that it is an ordinary
thing to find a common farmer lay out two or three

22 Diary of {Rotterdam

thousand pounds in this commodity. Their houses are full
of them, and they vend them at their fairs to very great
gains. Here | first saw an elephant, who was extremely
well disciplined and obedient. It was a beast of a mon-
strous size, yet as flexible and nimble in the joints, contrary
to the vulgar tradition, as could be imagined from so pro-
digious a bulk and strange fabric; but I most of all admired
the dexterity and strength of its proboscis, on which it was
able to support two or three men, and by which it took and
reached whatever was offered to it; its teeth were but
short, being a female, and not old. I was also shown a
pelican, or onocratulas of Pliny, with its large gullets, in
which he kept his reserve of fish; the plumage was white,
legs red, flat, and film-footed: likewise a cock with four
legs, two rumps and vents: also a hen which had two large
spurs growing out of her sides, penetrating the feathers
of her wings.

17th August. I passed again through Delft, and visited
the church in which was the monument of Prince William
of Nassau,—the first of the Williams, and saviour (as they
call him) of their liberty, which cost him his life by a vile
assassination. It is a piece of rare art, consisting of several
figures, as big as the life, in copper. There is in the same
place a magnificent tomb of his son and successor, Maurice.
The Senate-house hath a very stately portico, supported
with choice columns of black marble, as I remember, of one
entire stone. Within, there hangs a weighty vessel of
wood, not unlike a butter-churn, which the adventurous
woman that hath two husbands at one time is to wear on
her shoulders, her head peeping out at the top only, and so
led about the town, as a penance for her incontinence.
From hence, we went the next day to Ryswick, a stately
country-house of the Prince of Orange, for nothing more
remarkable than the delicious walks planted with lime
trees, and the modern paintings within.

19th. We returned to the Hague, and went to visit the
Hoff, or Prince’s Court, with the adjoining gardens full of
ornament, close walks, statues, marbles, grots, fountains,
and artificial music. There is to this palace a stately hall,
not much inferior to ours of Westminster, hung round with
colours and other trophies taken from the Spaniards ;! and

1 Westminster-hall used to be so in Term-time, and during the sit-
ting of Parliament, as late as the beginning of the reign of George UL

1641] John Evelyn 23

the sidles below are furnished with shops. Next day (the
2oth) I returned to Delft, thence to Rotterdam, the Hague,
and Lieyden, where immediately I mounted a waggon,
which that night, late as it was, brought us to Haerlem.
About seven in the morning after 1 came to Amsterdam,
where being provided with a lodging, the first thing I went
to see was a Synagogue of the Jews (being Saturday),
whose ceremonies, ornaments, lamps, law, and _ schools,
afforded matter for my contemplation. The women were
secluded from the men, being seated in galleries above,
shut with lattices, having their heads muffled with linen,
after a fantastical and somewhat extraordinary fashion;
the men, wearing a large calico mantle, yellow coloured,
over their hats, all the while waving their bodies, whilst at
their dievotions. From thence, I went to a place without
the town, called Overkirk, where they have a spacious field
assigned them to bury their dead, full of sepulchres with
Hebraic inscriptions, some of them stately and costly.
Lookimg through one of these monuments, where the
stones were disjointed, I perceived divers books and papers
lie about a corpse; for it seems, when any learned Rabbi
dies, they bury some of his books with him. With the help
of a sttick, I raked out several, written in Hebrew char-
acters, but much impaired. As we returned, we stepped in
to see the Spin-house, a kind of bridewell, where incor-
rigible and lewd women are kept in discipline and labour,
but all neat. We were showed an hospital for poor travel-
lers amd pilgrims, built by Queen Elizabeth of England;
and another maintained by the city.

The State or Senate-house of this town, if the design be
perfected, will be one of the most costly and magnificent
pieces of architecture in Europe, especially for the ma-
terials and the carvings. In the Doole is painted, on a
very large table, the bust of Marie de Medicis, supported
by four royal diadems, the work of one Vanderdall, who
hath set his name thereon, rst September, 1638.

On Sunday, I heard an English sermon at the Presby-
terian congregation, where they had chalked upon a slate
the psalms that were to be sung, so that all the congrega-
tion might see it without the bidding of a clerk. I
was told, that after such an age no minister was per-
mitted to preach, but had his maintenance continued during
life.

I purposely changed my lodgings, being desirous to

24 Diary of [Amsterdam

converse with the sectaries that swarmed in this city, out of
whose spawn came those almost innumerable broods in
England afterwards. It was at a Brownist’s house, where
we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension
with us my Lord Keeper, Finch, and one Sir J. Fotherbee.
Here I also found an English Carmelite, who was going
through Germany with an Irish gentleman. I now went to
see the Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter-house,
for the education of decayed persons, orphans, and poor
children, where they are taught several occupations. The
girls are so well brought up to housewifery, that men of
good worth, who seek that chiefly in a woman, frequently
take their wives from this hospital. Thence to the Rasp-
house, where the lusty knaves are compelled to work; and
the rasping of brasil and logwood for the dyers is very hard
labour. To the Dool-house, for madmen and fools. But
none did I so much admire, as an Hospital for their lame
and decrepit soldiers and seamen, where the accommoda-
tions are very great, the building answerable; and, indeed,
for the like public charities the provisions are admirable
in this country, where, as no idle vagabonds are suffered
(as in England they are), there is hardly a child of four or
five years old, but they find some employment for it.1

It was on a Sunday morning that I went to the Bourse,
or Exchange, after their sermons were ended, to see the
Dog-market, which lasts till two in the afternoon, in this
place of convention of merchants from all parts of the
world. The building is not comparable to that of London,
built by that worthy citizen, Sir Thomas Gresham, yet in
one respect exceeding it, that vessels of considerable
burthen ride at the very quay contiguous to it; and indeed
it is by extraordinary industry that as well this city, as
generally all the towns of Holland, are so accommodated

1 Until the present edition of this Diary, the entry relating to the
Amsterdam Hospital stood thus :—‘‘ But none did I so much admire
as an hospital for their lame and decrepid soldiers, it being for state, —
order, and accommodations, one of the worthiest things that the world ©
can show of that nature. Indeed it is most remarkable what pro-
visions are here made and maintained for publick and charitable pur-
poses, and to protect the poor from misery, and the country from
beggars.’’ The passage in the text is from Evelyn’s own later correc-
tion. The reader will remember with some interest, in connection ©
with this remark on the hospital of Amsterdam, that the first stone
of Greenwich Hospital was afterwards laid by Evelyn.—{Note to 1850
Haditgen. |

1641) John Evelyn 25

with graffs, cuts, sluices, moles, and rivers, made by hand,
that noithing is more frequent than to see a whole navy,
belongimg to this mercantile people, riding at anchor before
their very doors: and yet their streets even, straight, and
well pawed, the houses so uniform and planted with lime
trees, as nothing can be more beautiful.

The mext day, we were entertained at a kind of tavern,
called the Briloft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where,
in the upper rooms of the house, were divers pretty water-
works, rising 108 feet from the ground. Here were many
quaint dievices, fountains, artificial music, noises of beasts,
and chirping of birds; but what pleased me most was a
large pendant candlestick, branching into several sockets,
furnished all with ordinary candles to appearance, out of
the wicks spouting out streams of water, instead of flames.
This seemed then and was a rarity, before the philosophy of
compresssed air made it intelligible. There was likewise a
cylinder that entertained the company with a variety of
chimes, the hammers striking upon the brims of porcelain
dishes, suited to the tones and notes, without cracking any
of them. Many other water-works were shown.

The Keiser’s or Emperor’s Graft, which is an ample and
long street, appearing like a city in a forest; the lime trees
planted just before each house, and at the margin of that
goodly aqueduct so curiously wharfed with Klincard brick,
which likewise paves the streets, than which nothing can be
more useful and neat. This part of Amsterdam is built and
gained upon the main sea, supported by piles at an immense
charge, and fitted for the most busy concourse of traffickers
and people of commerce beyond any place, or mart, in the
world. Nor must I forget the port of entrance into an

1 Some slight differences may be marked in the description of the
Dutch towns as it stands in the earlier editions. These and other
discrepancies are explained in the preface to the present edition; but
it may be worth while, where the change does not simply consist, as
for the most part is the case, in a more full and careful reproduction
of the original text, but, as happens occasionally, in the substitution
of Evelyn’s later corrections for his earlier and less finished text, to
preserve im these notes the text as first printed. ‘‘.... sluices, moles,
nd rivers, that nothing is more frequent than to see a whole navy of
merchants and others environ’d with streets and houses, every man’s
bark or vessel at anchor before his very door; and yet the street so

26 Diary of [Amsterdam

issue of this town, composed ot very maynificent pieces of
architecture, some of the ancient and best manner; as are
divers churches.}

The turrets, or steeples, are adorned after a particular
manner and invention; the chimes of bells are so rarely
managed, that being curious to know whether the motion
was from any engine, I went up to that of St. Nicholas, |
where I found one who played all sorts of compositions
from the tablature before him, as if he had fingered an
organ; for so were the hammers fastened with wires to
several keys put into a frame twenty feet below the bells,
upon which (by help of a wooden instrument, not much>
unlike a weaver’s shuttle, that guarded his hand) he struck —
on the keys and played to admiration. All this while,
through the clattering of the wires, din of the too nearly
sounding bells, and noise that his wooden gloves made, the
confusion was so great, that it was impossible for the
musician, or any that stood near him, to hear any thing
himself; yet, to those at a distance, and especially in the
streets, the harmony and the time were the most exact and
agreeable.

The south church is richly paved with black and white
marble,—the west is a new fabric; and generally all the
churches in Holland are furnished with organs, lamps, and
monuments, carefully preserved from the fury and impiety of
popular reformers, whose zeal has foolishly transported them
in other places rather to act like madmen than religious.

1 The description of the Briloft is thus given in the earlier editions :
‘* There was a lamp of brass, with eight sockets from the middle
stem, like those we use in churches, having counterfeit tapers in them,
streams of water issuing as out of their wicks, the whole branch
hanging loose upon a tack in the midst of a beam, and without any
other perceptible commerce with any pipe, so that, unless it were by
compression of the air with a syringe, I could not comprehend how it
should be done. There was a chime of porcelain dishes, which fitted
to clock-work and rung many changes and tunes.’’ That of th
Keiser’s Graft stands thus: ‘‘ The Keiser’s Graft, or Emperor’s Street,
appears a city in a wood through the goodly ranges of the stately
lime-trees planted before each man’s door, and at the margin of tha
goodly aquz-duct, or river, so curiously wharfed with clincars (a kin
of white sun-bak’d brick), and of which material the spacious street
on either side are paved. This part of Amsterdam is gained upon
the main sea, supported by piles at an immense charge. Prodigiou
it is to consider the multitude of vessels which continually ride befor

this City, which is certainly the most busy concourse of mortals no
upon the whole earth, and the most addicted to commerce."’

1641] John Evelyn 27

Upon St. Bartholomew’s day, | went amongst the book-
sellers, and visited the famous Hondius and Bleaw’s shop,
to buy some maps, atlasses, and other works of that kind.}
At another shop, I furnished myself with some shells and
Indian curiosities; and so, towards the end of August, I
returned again to Haerlem by the river, ten miles in length,
straight as a line, and of competent breadth for ships to
sail by one another. They showed us a cottage where, they
told us, dwelt a woman who had been married to her
twenty-fifth husband, and being now a widow, was pro-
hibited to marry in future; yet it could not be proved
that she had ever made away with any of her husbands,
though the suspicion had brought her divers times to
trouble.

Haerlem is a very delicate town, and hath one of the
fairest churches of the Gothic design 1 had ever seen.
There hang in the steeple, which is very high, two silver
bells, said to have been brought from Damietta, in Egypt,
by an earl of Holland, in memory of whose success they
are rung out every evening. In the nave, hang the good-
liest branches of brass for tapers that I have seen, esteemed
of great value for the curiosity of the workmanship; also a
fair pair of organs, which I could not find they made use of
in divine service, or so much as to assist them in singing
psalms, but only for show, and to recreate the people before
and after their devotions, whilst the burgomasters were
walking and conferring about their affairs. Near the west
window hang two models of ships, completely equipped, in
memory of that invention of saws under their keels, with
which they cut through the chain of booms, which barred
the port of Damietta. Having visited this church, the fish-
market, and made some inquiry about the printing-house,
the invention whereof is said to have been in this town, I
returned to Leyden.

At Leyden, I was carried up to the castle, or Pyrgus,
built on a very steep artificial mound, cast up (as reported)
by Hengist the Saxon, on his return out of England, as a
place to retire to, in case of any sudden inundations.

1 The entry as to the booksellers is thus expressed in the earlier
editions: ‘‘I went to Hundius’s shop to buy some maps, greatly
pleased with the designs of that indefatigable person. Mr. Bleaw, the
setter forth of the Atlas’s and other works of that kind, is worthy
seeing.”’

I 220 (®

28 Diary of (Leyden

The churches are many and fair; in one of them lies
buried the learned and illustrious Joseph Scaliger, without
any extraordinary inscription, who, having left the world
a monument of his worth more lasting than marble, needed
nothing more than his own name; which I think is all
engraven on his sepulchre. He left his library to this
University.

28th August. I went to see the college and schools,
which are nothing extraordinary, and was complimented
with a matricula by the magnificus Professor, who first in
Latin demanded of me where my lodging in the town was,
my name, age, birth, and to what Faculty I addicted
myself ; then, recording my answers in a book, he adminis-
tered an oath to me that I should observe the statutes and
orders of the University whilst I stayed, and then delivered
me a ticket, by virtue whereof | was made excise-free; for
all which worthy privileges, and the pains of writing, he
accepted of a rix-dollar.

Here was now the famous Dan. Heinsius,} whom I so
longed to see, as well as the no less famous printer,
Elzevir’s printing-house and shap, renowned for the polite-
ness of the character and editions of what he has published
through Europe. Hence to the physic-garden, well stored
with exotic plants, if the catalogue presented to me by the
gardener be a faithful register.

But, amongst all the rarities of this place, 1 was much
pleased with a sight of their anatomy-school, theatre, and
repository adjoining, which is well furnished with natural
curiosities ; skeletons, from the whale and elephant to the
fly and spider; which last is a very delicate piece of art,
to see how the bones (if I may so call them of so tender an
insect) could be separated from the mucilaginous parts of
that minute animal. Amongst a great variety of other
things, I was shown the knife newly taken out of a drunken
Dutchman’s guts, by an incision in his side, after it had

1 Daniel Hensius, a scholar and critic, who edited numerous editions
of the Classics. He was chosen professor of history at Leyden; then
secretary and librarian of the University. In 1619, he was appointed
secretary to the states of Holland, at the Synod of Dort; and the
fame of his learning became so diffused, that the Pope endeavoured to
draw him to Rome. He was made a Knight of St. Mark by the
Republic of Venice, and the King of Sweden honoured him with the

title of Counsellor. He died in January, 1655. The Elzevir printers
are well known.

1641] John Evelyn 29

slipped from his fingers into his stomach. The pictures of
the chirurgeon and his patient, both living, were there.

There is without the town a fair Mall, curiously planted.

Returning to my lodging, | was showed the statue, cut
in stone, of the happy monk, whom they report to have
been tthe first inventor of typography, set over the door;
but this is much controverted by others, who strive for the
glory of it, besides John Guttenburg.

I was brought acquainted with a Burgundian Jew, who
had married an apostate Kentish woman. 1 asked him
divers questions: he told me, amongst other thing's, that
the World should never end; that our souls transmigrated,
and that even those of the most holy persons did penance
in the bodies of brutes after death,—and so he interpreted
the banishment and savage life of Nebuchadnezzar : that all
the Jews should rise again, and be led to Jerusalem; that
the Romans only were the occasion of our Saviour’s death,
whom he affirmed (as the Turks do) to be a great prophet,
but not the Messiah. He showed me several books of their
devotion, which he had translated into English, for the in-
struction of his wife; he told me that when the Messiah
came, all the ships, barks, and vessels of Holland should,
by the power of certain strange whirlwinds, be loosed from
their anchors, and transported in a moment to all the
desolate ports and havens throughout the world, wherever
the dispersion was, to convey their brethren and tribes to
the Holy City; with other such like stuff. He was a merry
drunken fellow, but would by no means handle any money
(for something I purchased of him), it being Saturday; but
desired me to leave it in the window, meaning to receive
it on Sunday morning.

1st September. J went to Delft and Rotterdam, and two
days after back to the Hague, to bespeak a suit of horse-
man’s armour, which I caused to be made to fit me. I
now rode out of town to see the monument of the woman,
pretended to have been a countess of Holland, reported to
have had as many children at one birth, as there are days
in the year. The basins were hung up in which they were
baptised, together with a large description of the matter-of-
fact im a frame of carved work, in the church of Lysdun, a
desolate place. As I returned, I diverted to see one of the
Prince’s Palaces, called the Hoff Van Hounsler’s Dyck, a
very fair cloistered and quadrangular building. The gallery

30 Diary of [Bois-le-Duc

is prettily painted with several huntings, and at one end a
gordian knot, with rustical instruments so artificially repre-
sented, as to deceive an accurate eye to distinguish it from
actual relievo. The ceiling of the staircase is painted with
the ‘‘ Rape of Ganymede,’’ and other pendant figures, the
work of F. Covenberg, of whose hand I bought an excellent
drollery, which I afterwards parted with to my brother
George of Wotton, where it now hangs.! To this palace
join a fair garden and park, curiously planted with limes.

8th September. Returned to Rotterdam, through Delfts-
haven and Sedan, where were at that time Colonel Goring’s
winter-quarters. This town has heretofore been very much
talked of for witches.

1oth. I took a waggon for Dort, to be present at the
reception of the Queen-mother, Marie de Medicis, Dowager
of France, widow of Henry the Great, and mother to the
French King, Louis XIII., and the Queen of England,
whence she newly arrived, tossed to and fro by the
various fortune of her life. From this city, she designed
for Cologne, conducted by the Earl of Arundel and the Herr
Van Bredrod. At this interview, I saw the Princess of
Orange, and the lady her daughter, afterwards married to
the House of Brandenburgh. There was little remarkable
in this reception befitting the greatness of her person; but
an universal discontent, which accompanied that unlucky
woman wherever she went.

12th. I went towards Bois-le-Duc, where we arrived on
the 16th, at the time when the new citadel was advancing,
with innumerable hands, and incomparable inventions for
draining off the waters out of the fens and morasses about
it, being by buckets, mills, cochleas, pumps, and the like;
in which the Hollanders are the most expert in Europe.
Here were now sixteen companies and nine troops of
horse. They were also cutting a new river, to pass from
the town to a castle not far from it. Here we split our
skiff, falling foul upon another through negligence of the
master, who was fain to run aground, to our no little
hazard. At our arrival, a soldier conveyed us to the Gover-
nor, where our names were taken, and our persons exam-
ined very strictly.

17th September. I was permitted to walk the round and
view the works, and to visit a convent of religious women

1 It is still there.

1641] John Evelyn 31

of the order of St. Clara (who by the capitulation were
allowed to enjoy their monastery and maintenance undis-
turbed, at the surrender of the town twelve years since),
where we had a collation and very civil entertainment.
They had a neat chapel, in which the heart of the Duke of
Cleves, their founder, lies inhumed under a plate of brass.
Within the cloister is a garden, and in the middle of it
an overgrown lime-tree, out of whose stem, near the root,
issue five upright and exceeding tall suckers, or bolls, the
like whereof for evenness and height I had not observed.

The chief church of this city is curiously carved within
and without, furnished with a pair of organs, and a most
magnificent font of copper.

18th. I went to see that most impregnable town and
fort of Hysdune, where I was exceedingly obliged to one
Colonel Crombe, the lieutenant-governor, who would needs
make me accept the honour of being captain of the watch,
and to give the word this night. The fortification is very
irregular, but esteemed one of the most considerable for
strength and situation in the Netherlands. We departed
towards Gorcum. Here Sir Kenelm Digby, travelling to-
wards Cologne, met us.

The next morning, the roth, we arrived at Dort, passing
by the Decoys, where they catch innumerable quantities of
fowl.

22nd. 1 went again to Rotterdam to receive a pass
which I expected from Brussels, securing me through
Brabant and Flanders, designing to go into England
through those countries. The Cardinal Infante, brother
to the King of Spain, was then governor. By this pass,
having obtained another from the Prince of Orange, upon
the 24th of September I departed through Dort; but met
with wery bad tempestuous weather, being several times
driven back, and obliged to lie at anchor off Keele, other
vessels lying there waiting better weather. The 25th and
26th we made other essays; but were again repulsed to the
harbour, where lay sixty vessels waiting to sail. But, on
the 27th, we, impatient of the time and inhospitableness of
the place, sailed again with a contrary and impetuous wind
and a terrible sea, in great jeopardy; for we had much ado
to keep ourselves above water, the billows breaking ie et
ately on our vessel: we were driven into Williamstadt,
place garrisoned by the English, where the Governor ted a a

32 Diary of [Williamstadt

fair house. The works, and especially the counterscarp,
are curiously hedged with quick, and planted with a stately
row of limes on the rampart. The church is of a round
structure, with a cupola, and the town belongs entirely to
the Prince of Orange, as does that of Breda, and some
other places.

28th September. Failing of an appointment, I was con-
strained to return to Dort for a bill of exchange; but it
was the rst of October ere I could get back. At Keele,
I numbered 141 vessels, who durst not yet venture out;
but, animated by the master of a stout barque, after a
small encounter of weather, we arrived by four that even-
ing at Steenbergen. In the passage we sailed over a
sea called the Plaats, an exceeding dangerous water, by
reason of two contrary tides which meet there very im-
petuously. Here, because of the many shelves, we were
forced to tide it along the Channel; but, ere we could gain
the place, the ebb was so far spent, that we were compelled
to foot it at least two long miles, through a most pelting
shower of rain.

2nd October. \Vith a gentleman of the Rhyngraves, I
went in a cart, or tumbrel (for it was no better; no other
accommodation could be procured), of two wheels and one
horse, to Bergen-op-Zoom, meeting by the way divers
parties of his Highness’s army now retiring towards their
winter quarters; the convoy skiffs riding by thousands
along the harbour. The fort was heretofore built by the
English.

The next morning, I embarked for Lillo, having refused
a convoy of horse which was offered me. The tide being
against us, we landed short of the fort on the beach, where
we marched half leg deep in mud, ere we could gain the
dyke, which, being five or six miles from Lillo, we were
forced to walk on foot very wet and discomposed ; and
then entering a boat we passed the ferry, and came to the
castle. Being taken before the Governor, he demanded my
pass, to which he set his hand, and asked two rix-dollars
for a fee, which methought appeared very exorbitant in a
soldier of his quality. I told him that I had already pur-
chased my pass of the commissaries at Rotterdam; at
which, in a great fury, snatching the paper out of my hand,
he flung it scornfully under the table, and bade me try
whether I could get to Antwerp without his permission :

1641] John Evelyn 33

but I had no sooner given him the dollars, than he returned
the passport surlily enough, and made me pay fourteen
Dutch shillings to the cantone, or searcher, for my con-
tempt, which I was glad to do for fear of further trouble,
should he have discovered my Spanish pass, in which the
States were therein treated by the name of rebels. Besides
all these exactions, I gave the commissary six shillings,
to the soldiers something, and, ere perfectly clear of this
frontier, thirty-one stivers to the man-of-war, who lay
blocking up the river betwixt Lillo and the opposite sconce
called Lifkinshoeck.

4th October. We sailed by several Spanish forts, out of
one of which, St. Mary’s port, came a Don on board us,
to whom I showed my Spanish pass, which he signed, and
civilly dismissed us. Hence, sailing by another man-of-
war, to which we lowered our topsails, we at length arrived
at Antwerp.

The lodgings here are very handsome and convenient.
I lost little time; but, with the aid of one Mr. Lewkner,
our conductor, we visited divers churches, colleges, and
monasteries. The Church of the Jesuits is most sumptuous
and magnificent; a glorious fabric without and within,
wholly incrusted with marble, inlaid and polished into
divers representations of histories, landscapes, and flowers.
On the high altar is placed the statue of the Blessed Virgin
and our Saviour in white marble, with a boss in the girdle
set with very fair and rich sapphires, and divers other
stones of price. The choir is a glorious piece of archi-
tecture: the pulpit supported by four angels, and adorned
with other carvings, and rare pictures by Rubens, now
lately dead, and divers votive tables and relics. Hence, to
the Vrot Kirk, or Nétre Dame of Antwerp: it is a very
venerable fabric, built after the Gothic manner, especially
the tower, which I ascended, the better to take a view of
the country adjacent; which, happening on a day when
the sun shone exceedingly bright and darted his rays
without any interruption, afforded so bright a reflection to
us who were above, and had a full prospect of both land
and water about it, that I was much confirmed in my
opinion of the moon’s being of some such substance as this
earthly globe: perceiving all the subjacent country, at so
small an horizontal distance, to repercuss such a light as
I could hardly look against, save where the river, and other

34 Diary of [Antwerp

large water within our view, appeared of a more dark and
uniform colour; resembling those spots in the moon sup-
posed to be seas there, according to Hevelius, and as they
appear in our late telescopes.1 1 numbered in this church
thirty privileged altars, that of St. Sebastian adorned with
a painting of his martyrdom.

We went to see the Jerusalem Church, affirmed to have
been founded by one who, upon divers great wagers, passed
to and fro between that city and Antwerp on foot, by which
he procured large sums of money, which he bestowed on
this pious structure.2, Hence, to St. Mary’s Chapel, where
I had some conference with two English Jesuits, confessors
to Colonel Jaye’s regiment. These fathers conducted us
to the Cloister of Nuns, where we heard a Dutch sermon
upon the exposure of the Host. The Senate-house of this
city is a very spacious and magnificent building.

5th October. I visited the Jesuits’ School, which, for
the fame of their method, I greatly desired to see. They
were divided into four classes, with several inscriptions
over each: as, first, Ad majorem Dei gloriam; over the
second, Princeps diligentie ; the third, Imperator Byzanti-
orum; over the fourth and uppermost, Imperator Roman-
orum. Under these, the scholars and pupils and their
places, or forms with titles and priority according to their
proficiency. Their dormitory and lodgings above were

1 In the earlier editions of the Diary, the entry descriptive of the
tower of Antwerp Cathedral was taken from Evelyn’s earlier text.
“It is a very venerable fabric, built after the Gothic manner; the
tower is of an excessive height. This I ascended, that I might the
better take a view of the country about it, which happening on a
day when the sun shone exceedingly hot, and darted the rays without
any interruption, afforded so bright a reflection to us who were
above, and had a full prospect of both land and water about it, that
I was much confirmed in my opinion of the moon’s being of some such
substance as this earthly globe consists of; perceiving all the adjacent
country at so small a horizontal distance, to repercuss such a light
as I could hardly look against, save where the river, and other large
water within our view, appeared of a more dark and uniform colour,
resembling those spots in the moon supposed to be seas there, accord-
ing to our new philosophy, and viewed by optical glasses. I numbered
in this church 30 privileged altars, whereof that of St. Sebastian’s was
rarely painted.’’ Occasional sentences of the preceding matter are
entirely new.

2 This notice, slipped by accident into the entries which refer to
Antwerp, belongs to those of Bruges. (See preface to the present
edition.)

1641] John Evelyn 35

exceedingly neat. They have a prison for the offenders and
less diligent ; and, in an ample court, to recreate themselves
in, is an aviary, and a yard where eagles, vultures, foxes,
monkeys, and other animals are kept, to divert the boys
withal at their hours of remission. To this school join
the music and mathematical schools, and lastly a pretty,
neat chapel. The great street is built after the Italian
mode, in the middle whereof is erected a glorious crucifix
of white and black marble, greater than the life. This is a
very fair and noble street, clean, well paved, and sweet to
admiration.

The Oesters house, belonging to the East India Com-
pany, is a stately palace, adorned with more than 300
windows. From hence, walking into the Gun-garden, |
was allowed to see as much of the citadel as is permitted
to strangers. It is a matchless piece of modern fortifica-
tion, accommodated with lodgments for the soldiers and
magazines. The graffs, ramparts, and platforms are stu-
pendous. Returning by the shop of Plantine, I bought
some books, for the namesake only of that famous printer.

But there was nothing about this city which more
ravished me than those delicious shades and walks of
stately trees, which render the fortified works of the town
one of the sweetest places in Europe; nor did I ever observe
a more quiet, clean, elegantly built, and civil place, than
this magnificent and famous city of Antwerp. In the even-
ing, I was invited to Signor Duerte’s, a Portuguese by
nation, an exceeding rich merchant, whose palace I found
to be furnished like a prince’s. His three daughters enter-
tained us with rare music, vocal and instrumental, which
was finished with a handsome collation. I took leave of
the ladies and of sweet Antwerp, as late as it was, embark-
ing for Brussels on the Scheldt in a vessel, which delivered
us to a second boat (in another river) drawn or towed by
horses. In this passage, we frequently changed our barge,
by reason of the bridges thwarting our course. Here I
observed numerous families inhabiting their vessels and
floating dwellings, so built and divided by cabins, as few
houses on land enjoyed better accommodation; stored with
all sorts of utensils, neat chambers, a pretty parlour, and
kept so sweet, that nothing could be more refreshing.
The rivers on which they are drawn are very clear and still
waters, and pass through a most pleasant country on both

I 220 *o

36 Diary of [Brussels

the banks. We had in our boat a very good ordinary, and
excellent company. The cut is straight as a line for twenty
English miles. What I much admired was, near the mid-
way, another artificial river, which intersects this at right
angles, but on an eminence of ground, and is carried in an
aqueduct of stone so far above the other, as that the waters
neither mingle, nor hinder one another’s passage.}

We came to a town called Villefrow, where all the pas-
sengers went on shore to wash at a fountain issuing out of
a pillar, and then came aboard again. On the margin of
this long tract are abundance of shrines and images, de-
fended from the injuries of the weather by niches of stone
wherein they are placed.

7th October. We arrived at Brussels at nine in the
morning. The Stadt-house, near the market-place, is,
for the carving in freestone, a most laborious and finished
piece, well worthy observation. The flesh-shambles are
also built of stone. I was pleased with certain small
engines, by which a girl, or boy, was able to draw up, or
let down, great bridges, which in divers parts of this city
crossed the channel for the benefit of passengers. The walls
of this town are very entire, and full of towers at com-
petent distances. The cathedral is built upon a very high
and exceeding steep ascent, to which we mounted by fair
steps of stone. Hence I walked to a convent of English
Nuns, with whom I sat discoursing most part of the
afternoon.

8th. Being the morning I came away, I went to see the
Prince’s Court, an ancient, confused building, not much
unlike the Hofft, at the Hague: there is here likewise
a very large Hall, where they vend all sorts of wares.
Through this we passed by the chapel, which is indeed
rarely arched, and in the middle of it was the hearse, or
catafalco, of the late Archduchess, the wise and pious
Clara Eugenia. Out of this we were conducted to the
lodgings, tapestried with incomparable arras, and adorned
with many excellent pieces of Rubens, old and young
Breugel, Titian, and Stenwick, with stories of most of the
late actions in the Netherlands.

By an accident, we could not see the library. There is
a fair terrace which looks to the vineyard, in which, on
pedestals, are fixed the statues of all the Spanish kings of

1 As at the Duke of Bridgewater’s canal, in Lancashire.

1641) John Evelyn a7

the house of Austria. The opposite walls are painted by
Rubens, being an history of the late tumults in Belgia;
in the last piece, the Archduchess shuts a great pair of
gates upon Mars, who is coming out of hell, armed, and
in a menacing posture; which, with that other of the
Infanta taking leave of Don Philip the Fourth, is a most
incomparable table.

From hence, we walked into the park, which for being
entirely within the walls of the city is particularly remark-
able: nor is it less pleasant than if in the most solitary
recesses; so naturally is it furnished with whatever may
render it agreeable, melancholy, and country-like. Here is
a stately heronry, divers springs of water, artificial cas-
cades, rocks, grots; one whereof is composed of the ex-
travagant roots of trees, cunningly built and hung together
with wires. In this park are both fallow and red deer.

From hence, we were led into the Menage, and out of
that into a most sweet and delicious garden, where was
another grot of more neat and costly materials, full of noble
statues, and entertaining us with artificial music; but the
hedge of water, in form of lattice-work, which the foun-
taineer caused to ascend out of the earth by degrees,
exceedingly pleased and surprised me; for thus, with a
pervious wall, or rather a palisade hedge of water, was
the whole parterre environed.

There is likewise a fair aviary; and in the court next it
are kept divers sorts of animals, rare and exotic fowl, as
eagles, cranes, storks, bustards, pheasants of several kinds,
and a duck having four wings. In another division of the
same close are rabbits of an almost perfect yellow colour.

There was no Court now in the palace; the Infante Car-
dinal, who was the Governor of Flanders, being dead but
newly, and every one in deep mourning.

At near eleven o’clock, I repaired to his Majesty’s
agent, Sir Henry de Vic,} who very courteously received
me, and accommodated me with a coach and six horses,
which carried me from Brussels to Ghent, where it was to
meet my Lord of Arundel, Earl Marshal of England, who

1 For twenty years resident at Brussels for Charles II.; also Chan-
cellor of the Order of the Garter; and in 1662 appointed Comptroller
of the Household of the Duke of York. He died in 1672. See
‘* Correspondence,” vol. iv. p. 215, and p. 221, where he is mentioned
by the Queen of Bohemia.

38 Diary of [Ghent and Bruges

had requested me when | was at Antwerp to send it for
him, if I] went not thither myself.

Thus taking leave of Brussels and a sad Court, yet full of
gallant persons (for in this small city, the acquaintance
being universal, ladies and gentlemen, I perceived, had
great diversions, and frequent meetings), I hasted towards
Ghent. On the way, I met with divers little waggons,
prettily contrived, and full of peddling merchandises, drawn
by mastiff-dogs, harnessed completely like so many coach-
horses; in some four, in others six, as in Brussels itself I
had observed. In Antwerp I saw, as | remember, four dogs
draw five lusty children in a chariot: the master commands
them whither he pleases, crying his wares about the streets.
After passing through Ouse, by six in the evening, I arrived
at Ghent. This is a city of so great a circumference, that it
is reported to be seven leagues round; but there is not half
of it now built, much of it remaining in fields and desolate
pastures even within the walls, which have strong gates
towards the west, and two fair churches.

Here I beheld the palace wherein John of Gaunt and
Charles V. were born; whose statue } stands in the market-
place, upon a high pillar, with his sword drawn, to which
(as I was told) the magistrates and burghers were wont
to repair upon a certain day every year with ropes about
their necks, in token of submission and penance for an old
rebellion of theirs; but now the hemp is changed into a
blue ribbon. Here is planted the basilisco, or great gun,
so much talked of. The Lys and the Scheldt meeting in
this vast city, divide it into twenty-six islands, which are
united by many bridges, somewhat resembling Venice.
This night I supped with the Abbot of Andoyne, a pleasant
and courteous priest.

8th October. I passed by a boat to Bruges, taking in
at a redoubt a convoy of fourteen musketeers, because the
other side of the river, being Contribution-land, was sub-
ject to the inroads and depredations of the bordering
States. This river was cut by the famous Marquis Spinola,
and is in my judgment a wonderful piece of labour, and a
worthy public work, being in some places forced through
the main rock, to an incredible depth, for thirty miles. At
the end of each mile is built a small redoubt, which com-
municates a line to the next, and so the whole way, from

1 That of Charles V.

1641] John Evelyn 39

whence we received many volleys of shot, in compliment to
my Lord Marshal, who was in our vessel, a passenger
with us. At five that evening, we were met by the magis-
trates of Bruges, who came out to convey my Lord to his
lodgings, at whose cost he was entertained that night.

The morning after we went to see the Stadt-house and
adjoining aqueduct, the church, and market-place, where
we saw cheeses and butter piled up in heaps; also the
fortifications and graffs, which are extremely large.

The oth, we arrived at Ostend by a straight and artificial
river. Here, with leave of the captain of the watch, I was
carried to survey the river and harbour, with fortifications
on one side thereof : the east and south are mud and earth
walls. It is a very strong place, and lately stood a memor-
able siege three years, three months, three weeks, and three
days. I went to see the church of St. Peter, and the
cloisters of the Franciscans.

10th October. I went by waggon, accompanied with a
jovial commissary, to Dunkirk, the journey being made all
on the sea-sands. On our arrival, we first viewed the court
of guards, the works, the town-house, and the new church;
the latter is very beautiful within; and another, wherein
they showed us an excellent piece of Our Saviour’s bearing
the Cross. The harbour, in two channels, coming up to the
town was choked with a multitude of prizes.

From hence, the next day, I marched three English miles
towards the packet-boat, being a pretty frigate of six guns,
which embarked us for England about three in the
afternoon.

At our going off, the fort, against which our pinnace
anchored, saluted my Lord Marshal with twelve great guns,
which we answered with three. Not having the wind
favourable, we anchored that night before Calais. About
midnight, we weighed ; and, at four in the morning, though
not far from Dover, we could not make the pier till four
that afternoon, the wind proving contrary and driving us
westward: but at last we got on shore, October the 12th.

From Dover, I that night rode post to Canterbury. Here
I visited the cathedral, then in great splendour; those
famous windows being entire, since demolished by the
fanatics. The next morning, by Sittingbourne, I came to
Rochester, and thence to Gravesend, where a light-horse-
man (as they call it) taking us in, we spent our tide as far

40 Diary of [London

as Greenwich. From hence, after we had a little refreshed
ourselves at the College (for by reason of the contagion
then in London we balked the inns), we came to London,
landing at Arundel-stairs. Here I took leave of his Lord-
ship, and retired to my lodgings in the Middle Temple,
being about two in the morning, the 14th of October.

16th October. 1 went to see my brother at Wotton. On
the 31st of that month (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion,
which broke out on the 23rd), I was one and twenty years
of age.

oth November. After receiving the Sacrament at Wot-
ton church, I visited my Lord Marshal at Albury.

23rd. I returned to London; and, on the 25th, saw his
Majesty ride through the City after his coming out of Scot-
iand, and a Peace proclaimed, with great acclamations and
joy of the giddy people.

15th December. I was elected one of the Comptrollers
of the Middle Temple-revellers, as the fashion of the young
students and gentlemen was, the Christmas being kept this
year with great solemnity; but, being desirous to pass it
in the country, I got leave to resign my staff of office, and
went with my brother Richard to Wotton.

1oth January, 1642. I gave a visit to my cousin Hatton,
of Ditton.

19th. I went to London, where I staved till 5th March,
studying a little, but dancing and fooling more.

3rd October. To Chichester, and hence the next day to
see the siege of Portsmouth; for now was that bloody dif-
ference between the King and Parliament broken out, which
ended in the fatal tragedy so many years after. It was on
the day of its being rendered to Sir William Waller; which
gave me an opportunity of taking my leave of Colonel
Goring, the governor, now embarking for France. This
day was fought that signal battle at Edgehill. Thence |
went to Southampton and Winchester, where I visited the
castle, school, church, and King Arthur’s Round Table;
but especially the church, and its Saxon kings’ monuments,
which I esteemed a worthy antiquity.

The 12th November was the battle of Brentford, sur-
prisingly fought; and to the great consternation of the
City, had his Majesty (as it was believed he would) pursued
his advantage. I came in with my horse and arms just at
the retreat; but was not permitted to stay longer than the

1642-3] John Evelyn AI

15th, by reason of the army marching to Gloucester ; which
would have left both me and my brothers exposed to ruin,
without any advantage to his Majesty.

7th December. 1 went from Wotton to London, to see
the so much celebrated line of communication, and on the
roth returned to Wotton, nobody knowing of my having
been in his Majesty’s army.

1oth March, 1643. I went to Hartingford-berry, to visit
my cousin, Keightly.

11th. I went to see my Lord of Salisbury’s Palace at
Hatfield, where the most considerable rarity, besides the
house (inferior to few then in England for its architecture),
were the garden and vineyard, rarely well watered and
planted. They also showed us the picture of Secretary
Cecil, in mosaic work, very well done by some Italian hand.

I must not forget what amazed us exceedingly in the
night before, namely, a shining cloud in the air, in shape
resembling a sword, the point reaching to the north; it was
as bright as the moon, the rest of the sky being very serene.
it began about eleven at night, and vanished not till above
one, being seen by all the south of England. 1 made many
journeys to and from London.

1sth April. To Hatfield, and near the town of Hertford
I went to see Sir J. Harrison’s house new built.1 Return-
ing to London, I called to see his Majesty’s house and
gardens at Theobald’s, since demolished by the rebels.

2nd May. I went from Wotton to London, where I saw
the furious and zealous people demolish that stately Cross
in Cheapside.

On the 4th I returned, with no little regret, for the con-
fusion that threatened us. Resolving to possess myself in
some quiet, if it might be, in a time of so great jealousy,
I built by my brother’s permission a study, made a fish-
pond, an island, and some other solitudes and retirements
at Wotton; which gave the first occasion of improving
them to those waterworks and gardens which afterwards
succeeded them, and became at that time the most famous
of England.

12th July. I sent my black menage horse and furniture
with a friend to his Majesty, then at Oxford.

23rd. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myself;

i Afterwards called Bali’s Park, belonging to the Townshend family,
George the Second's secretary of state having married Miss Harrison,

42 Diary of [Calais

but, finding it impossible to evade the doing very unhand-
some things, and which had been a great cause of my
perpetual motions hitherto between Wotton and London,
October the 2nd, | obtained a license of his Majesty, dated
at Oxford and signed by the King, to travel again.

6th November. Lying by the way from Wotton at Sir
Ralph Whitfield’s, at Blechingley (whither both my brothers
had conducted me), I arrived at London on the 7th, and
two days after took boat at the Tower-wharf, which carried
me as far as Sittingbourne, though not without danger,
I being only in a pair of oars, exposed to a hideous storm:
but it pleased God that we got in before the peril was con-
siderable. From thence, I went by post to Dover, accom-
panied with one Mr. Thicknesse, a very dear friend of
mine.1

11th. Having a reasonable good passage, though the
weather was snowy and untoward enough, we came before
Calais, where, as we went on shore, mistaking the tide,
our shallop struck on the sands, with no little danger; but
at length we got off.

Calais is considered an extraordinary well-fortified place,
in the old castle and new citadel regarding the sea. The
haven consists of a long bank of sand, lying opposite to it.
The market-place and the church are remarkable things,
besides those relics of our former dominion there. I re-
member there were engraven in stone, upon the front of
an ancient dwelling which was showed us, these words in
English—God save the King, together with the name of
the architect and date. The walls of the town are sub-
stantial; but the situation towards the land is not pleasant,
by reason of the marshes and low grounds about it.

12th. After dinner, we took horse with the Messagere,
hoping to have arrived at Boulogne that night; but there
fell so great a snow, accompanied with hail, rain, and sud-
den darkness, that we had much ado to gain the next
village; and in this passage, being to cross a valley by a
causeway, and a bridge built over a small river, the rain
that had fallen making it an impetuous stream for near a
quarter of a mile, my horse slipping had almost been the
occasion of my perishing. We none of us went to bed;
for the soldiers in those parts leaving little in the villages,

1 Whom he has already mentioned as so much assisting him in his
studies at Oxford.

1643] John Evelyn 43

we had enough to do to get ourselves dry, by morning,
between the fire and the fresh straw. The next day early,
we arrived at Boulogne.

This is a double town, one part of it situate on a high
rock, or downs; the other, called the lower town, is yet
with a great declivity towards the sea; both of them de-
fended by a strong castle, which stands on a notable
eminence. Under the town runs the river, which is yet
but an inconsiderable brook. Henry VIII., in the siege
of this place is said to have used those great leathern
guns which I have since beheld in the Tower of London,
inscribed, Non Marte opus est cui non deficit Mercurius ;
if at least the history be true, which my Lord Herbert
doubts.1

The next morning, in some danger of parties [Spanish]
surprising us, we came to Montreuil, built on the summit
of a most conspicuous hill, environed with fair and ample
meadows; but all the suburbs had been from time to time
ruined, and were now lately burnt by the Spanish inroads.
This town is fortified with two very deep dry ditches; the
walls about the bastions and citadel are a noble piece of
masonry. The church is more glorious without than
within: the market-place large: but the inhabitants are
miserably poor. The next day, we came to Abbeville,
having passed all this way in continual expectation of the
volunteers, as they call them. This town affords a good
aspect towards the hill from whence we descended: nor
does it deceive us; for it is handsomely built, and has many
pleasant and useful streams passing through it, the main
river being the Somme, which discharges itself into the
sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the town. The prin-
cipal church is a very handsome piece of Gothic architec-
ture, and the ports and ramparts sweetly planted for defence
and ornament. In the morning, they brought us choice of
guns and pistols to sell at reasonable rates, and neatly
made, being here a merchandise of great account, the town
abounding in gun-smiths.

Hence we advanced to Beauvais, another town of good
note, and having the first vineyards we had seen. The
next day to Beaumont, and the morrow to Paris, having
taken our repast at St. Denis, two leagues from that great
city. St. Denis is considerable only for its stately cathedral,

1 In his history of that king.

44 Diary of (Paris

and the dormitory of the French kings, there inhumed
as ours at Westminster Abbey. The treasury is esteemed
one of the richest in Europe. The church was built by
king Dagobert,! but since much enlarged, being now 390
feet long, 100 in breadth, and 80 in height, without com-
prehending the cover: it has also a very high shaft of
stone, and the gates are of brass. Here, whilst the monks
conducted us, we were showed the ancient and modern
sepulchres of their kings, beginning with the founder to
Louis his son, with Charles Martel and Pepin, son and
father of Charlemagne. These lie in the choir, and without
it are many more: amongst the rest that of Bertrand du
Guesclin, Constable of France; in the chapel of Charles V.,
all his posterity; and near him the magnificent sepulchre
of Francis I., with his children, wars, victories, and
triumphs engraven in marble. In the nave of the church
lies the catafalque, or hearse, of Louis XIII., Henry II., a
noble tomb of Francis Il., and Charles IX. Above are
bodies of several Saints; below, under a state of black
velvet, the late Louis XIII., father of this present monarch.
Every one of the ten chapels, or oratories, had some Saints
in them; amongst the rest, one of the Holy Innocents.
The treasury is kept in the sacristy above, in which are
crosses of massy gold and silver, studded with precious
stones, one of gold three feet high, set with sapphires,
rubies, and great oriental pearls. Another given by Charles
the Great, having a noble amethyst in the middle of it,
stones and pearls of inestimable value. Amongst the still
more valuable relics are, a nail from our Saviour’s Cross,
in a box of gold full of precious stones; a crucifix of the
true wood of the Cross, carved by Pope Clement III.,
enchased in a crystal covered with gold; a box in which is
some of the Virgin’s hair; some of the linen in which our
blessed Saviour was wrapped at his nativity; in a huge
reliquary, modelled like a church, some of our Saviour’s
blood, hair, clothes, linen with which he wiped the Apostles’
feet; with many other equally authentic toys, which the
friar who conducted us would have us believe were
authentic relics. Amongst the treasures is the crown of
Charlemagne, his seven-foot high sceptre and hand of
justice, the agraffe of his royal mantle, beset with diamonds
and rubies, his sword, belt, and spurs of gold; the crown
1 A.D. 630.

1643] John Evelyn 45

of St. Louis, covered with precious stones, amongst which
is one vast ruby, uncut, of inestimable value, weighing 300
carats (under which is set one of the thorns of our blessed
Saviour’s crown), his sword, seal, and hand of justice.
The two crowns of Henry IV., his sceptre, hand of justice,
and spurs. The two crowns of his son Louis. In the cloak-
royal of Anne of Bretagne is a very great and rare ruby.
Divers books covered with solid plates of gold, and studded
with precious stones. Two vases of beryl, two of agate,
whereof one is esteemed for its bigness, colour, and em-
bossed carving, the best now to be seen: by a special favour
I was permitted to take the measure and dimensions of it:
the story is a Bacchanalia and sacrifice to Priapus; a very
holy thing truly, and fit for a cloister! It is really antique,
and the noblest jewel there. There is also a large gondola
of chrysolite, a huge urn of porphyry, another of calcedon,
a vase of onyx, the largest I had ever seen of that stone;
two of crystal; a morsel of one of the waterpots in which
our Saviour did his first miracle; the effigies of the Queen
of Saba, of Julius, Augustus, Mark Antony, Cleopatra, and
others, upon sapphires, topazes, agates, and cornelians:
that of the queen of Saba! has a Moorish face; those of
Julius and Nero on agates are rarely coloured and cut. A
cup in which Solomon was used to drink, and an Apollo on
a great amethyst. There lay in a window a mirror of a
kind of stone said to have belonged to the poet Virgil.
Charlemagne’s chessmen, full of Arabic characters. In the
press next the door, the brass lantern full of crystals, said
to have conducted Judas and his company to apprehend our
blessed Saviour. A fair unicorn’s horn, sent by a king of
Persia, about seven feet long. In another press (over
which stands the picture in oil of their Orleans Amazon
with her sword), the effigies of the late French kings in
wax, like ours in Westminster, covered with their robes;
with a world of other rarities. Having rewarded our
courteous friar, we took horse for Paris, where we arrived
about five in the afternoon. In the way were fair crosses
of stone carved with fleur-de-lis at every furlong’s end,
where they affirm St. Denis rested and laid down his head
after martyrdom, carrying it from the place where this
monastery is builded. We lay at Paris at the Ville de
Venice; where, after I had something refreshed, I went to

1 Or Sheba.

46 Diary of [Paris

visit Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty’s Resident with the
French king.

5th December. The Earl of Norwich! came as Ambas-
sador extraordinary: I went to meet him in a coach and
six horses, at the palace of Monsieur de Bassompiere,
where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces,
and rare prospects. My lord was waited on by the master
of the ceremonies, and a very great cavalcade of men of
quality, to the Palais Cardinal, where on the 23rd he had
audience of the French king, and the queen Regent his
mother, in the golden chamber of presence. From thence,
I conducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. Denis, and so
took my leave.

24th. I went with some company to see some remark-
able places without the city: as the Isle, and how it is
encompassed by the rivers Seine and the Ouse. The city
is divided into three parts, whereof the town is greatest.
The city lies between it and the University in form of an
island. Over the Seine is a stately bridge called Pont
Neuf, begun by Henry III. in 1578, finished by Henry IV.
his successor. It is all of hewn free-stone found under
the streets, but more plentifully at Montmartre, and con-
sists of twelve arches, in the midst of which ends the point
of an island, on which are built handsome artificers’ houses.
There is one large passage for coaches, and two for foot-
passengers three or four feet higher, and of convenient
breadth for eight or ten to go a-breast. On the middle
of this stately bridge, on one side stands the famous statue
of Henry the Great on horseback, exceeding the natural
proportion by much; and, on the four faces of a stately
pedestal (which is composed of various sorts of polished
marbles and rich mouldings), inscriptions of his victories
and most signal actions are engraven in brass. The statue
and horse are of copper, the work of the great John di
Bologna, and sent from Florence by Ferdinand the First,
and Cosmo the Second, uncle and cousin to Mary de
Medicis, the wife of king Henry, whose statue it represents.
The place where it is erected is inclosed with a strong and
beautiful grate of iron, about which there are always moun-
tebanks showing their feats to idle passengers. From
hence is a rare prospect towards the Louvre and suburbs

1 George Lord Goring ; upon whom the title had been recently con-
ferred. See ante, p. 20.

1643) John Evelyn 47

of St. Germains, the Isle du Palais, and Nétre Dame. At
the foot of this bridge is a water-house, on the front
whereof, at a great height, is the story of Our Saviour
and the woman of Samaria pouring water out of a bucket.
Above, is a very rare dial of several motions, with a chime,
&c. The water is conveyed by huge wheels, pumps, and
other engines, from the river beneath. The confluence of
the people and multitude of coaches passing every moment
over the bridge, to a new spectator is an agreeable diver-
sion. Other bridges there are, as that of Nétre Dame and
the Pont-au-Change, &c., fairly built, with houses of stone;
which are laid over this river; only the Pont St. Anne,
landing the suburbs of St. Germains at the Tuileries, is
built of wood, having likewise a water-house in the midst
of it, and a statue of Neptune casting water out of a
whale’s mouth, of lead, but much inferior to the Samaritan.

The University lies south-west on higher ground, con-
tiguous to, but the lesser part of, Paris. They reckon no
less than sixty-five colleges; but they in nothing approach
ours at Oxford for state and order. The booksellers dwell
within the University. The schools (of which more here-
after) are very regular.

The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honoré, St. Marcel,
St. Jaques, St. Michael, St. Victoire, and St. Germains,
which last is the largest, and where the nobility and persons
of best quality are seated: and truly Paris, comprehending
the suburbs, is, for the material the houses are built with,
and many noble and magnificent piles, one of the most
gallant cities in the world; large in circuit, of a round form,
very populous, but situated in a bottom, environed with
gentle declivities, rendering some places very dirty, and
making it smell as if sulphur were mingled with the mud;
yet it is paved with a kind of free-stone, of near a foot
square, which renders it more easy to walk on than our
pebbles in London.

On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at Nétre
Dame, erected by Philip Augustus, but begun by King
Robert, son of Hugh Capet. It consists of a Gothic fabric,
sustained with 120 pillars, which make two aisles in the
church round about the choir, without comprehending the
chapels, being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 1oo high. The
choir is enclosed with stone-work graven with the sacred
history, and contains forty-five chapels chancelled with

48 Diary of (Paris

iron. At the front of the chief entrance are statues in relievo
of the kings, twenty-eight in number, from Childebert to
the founder, Philip; and above them are two high square
towers, and another of a smaller size, bearing a spire in the
middle, where the body of the church forms a cross. The
great tower is ascended by 389 steps, having twelve |
galleries from one to the other. They greatly reverence the |
crucifix over the screen of the choir, with an image of the
Blessed Virgin. There are some good modern paintings
hanging on the pillars. The most conspicuous statue is the
huge colossal one of St. Christopher; with divers other
figures of men, houses, prospects, and rocks, about this
gigantic piece; being of one stone, and more remarkable for
its bulk than any other perfection. This is the prime church |
of France for dignity, having archdeacons, vicars, canons,
priests, and chaplains in good store, to the number of 127.
It is also the palace of the archbishop. The young king
was there with a great and martial guard, who entered the
nave of the church with drums and fifes, at the ceasing of
which I was entertained with the church-music; and so I
left him.

4th January, 1644. 1 passed this day with one Mr. J.
Wall, an Irish gentleman, who had been a friar in Spain,
and afterwards a reader in St. Isodore’s chair, at Rome;
but was, I know not how, getting away, and pretending to
be a soldier of fortune, an absolute cavalier, having, as he
told us, been a captain of horse in Germany. It is certain
he was an excellent disputant, and so strangely given to it
that nothing could pass him. He would needs persuade me
to go with him this morning to the Jesuits’ College, to
witness his polemical talent. We found the Fathers in their
Church at the Rue St. Antoine, where one of them showed
us that noble fabric, which for its cupola, pavings, incrusta-
tions of marble, the pulpit, altars (especially the high altar),
organ, lavatorium, &c., but above all, for the richly carved
and incomparable front I esteem to be one of the most
perfect pieces of architecture in Europe, emulating even
some of the greatest now at Rome itself. But this not being
what our friar sought, he led us into the adjoining convent,
where, having showed us the library, they began a very
hot dispute on some points of divinity, which our cavalier —
contested only to show his pride, and to that indiscreet
height, that the Jesuits would hardly bring us to our coach,

1644) John Evelyn 49

they being put beside all patience. The next day, we went
into the University, and into the College of Navarre, which
is a spacious well-built quadrangle, having a very noble
library.

Thence to the Sorbonne, an ancient fabric built by one
Robert de Sorbonne, whose name it retains, but the restora-
tion which the late Cardinal de Richelieu has made to it
renders it one of the most excellent modern buildings; the
sumptuous church, of admirable architecture, is far superior
to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole design of the
church, are very magnificent.

We entered into some of the schools, and in that of
divinity we found a grave Doctor in his chair, with a multi-
tude of auditors, who all write as he dictates; and this they
ca!la Course. After we had sat a little, our cavalier started
up, and rudely enough began to dispute with the doctor; at
which, and especially as he was clad in the Spanish habit,
which in Paris is the greatest bugbear imaginable, the
scholars and doctor fell into such a fit of laughter, that
nobody could be heard speak for a while: but silence being
obtained, he began to speak Latin, and made his apology in
so good a style, that their derision was turned to admira-
tion; and beginning to argue, he so baffled the Professor,
that with universal applause they all rose up, and did him
great honours, waiting on us to the very street and our
coach, and testifying great satisfaction.

2nd February. | heard the news of my nephew George’s
birth, which was on January 15th, English style, 1644.

3rd. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to the
buildings is very noble; but the galleries where they sell
their petty merchandise nothing so stately as ours at Lon-
don, no more than the place where they walk below, being
only a low vault.

The Palaise, as they call the upper part, was built in the
time of Philip the Fair, noble and spacious. The great
Hall annexed to it, is arched with stone, having a range of
pillars in the middle, round which, and at the sides, are
shops of all kinds, especially booksellers’. One side is full
of pews for the clerks of the advocates, who swarm here
(as ours at Westminster). At one of the ends stands an
altar, at which mass is said daily. Within are several
chambers, courts, treasuries, &c. Above that is the most
rich and glorious Salle d’Audience, the chamber of St.

50 Diary of [Paris

Louis, and other superior Courts where the Parliament
sits, richly gilt on embossed carvings and frets, and exceed-
ing beautified.

Within the place where they sell their wares, is another
narrower gallery, full of shops and toys, &c., which looks
down into the prison-yard. Descending by a large pair of
stairs, we passed by Sainte Chapelle, which is a church
built by St. Louis, 1242, after the Gothic manner: it stands
on another church, which is under it, sustained by pillars
at the sides, which seem so weak as to appear extra-
ordinary in the artist. This chapel is most famous for
its relics, having, as they pretend, almost the entire
crown of thorns: the agate patine, rarely sculptured,
judged one of the largest and best in Europe. There
was now a very beautiful spire erecting. The court below
is very spacious, capable of holding many coaches, and
surrounded with shops, especially engravers’, goldsmiths’,
and watchmakers’. In it are a fair fountain and portico.
The Isle du Palais consists of a triangular brick building,
whereof one side, looking to the river, is inhabited by
goldsmiths. Within the court are private dwellings. The
front, looking on the great bridge, is possessed by mounte-
banks, operators, and puppet-players. On the other part,
is the every day’s market for all sorts of provisions,
especially bread, herbs, flowers, orange-trees, choice
shrubs. Here is a shop called Noah’s Ark, where are sold
all curiosities, natural or artificial, Indian or European,
for luxury or use, as cabinets, shells, ivory, porcelain, dried
fishes, insects, birds, pictures, and a thousand exotic extra-
vagances. Passing hence, we viewed the port Dauphine, an
arch of excellent workmanship; the street, bearing the same
name, is ample and straight.

4th February. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where
are a noble church and palace, heretofore dedicated to the
Knights Templars, now converted to a piazza, not much
unlike ours at Covent Garden; but large and not so
pleasant, though built all about with divers considerable
palaces.

The Church of St. Geneviéve is a place of great devotion,
dedicated to another of their Amazons, said to have
delivered the city from the English; for which she is
esteemed the tutelary saint of Paris. It stands on a steep
eminence, having a very high spire, and is governed by

1644] John Evelyn 51

canons regular. At the Palais Royal Henry IV. built a fair
quadrangle of stately palaces, arched underneath. In the
middle of a spacious area, stands on a noble pedestal a
brazen statue of Louis XIII., which, though made in
imitation of that in the Roman capitol, is nothing so much
esteemed as that on the Pont Neuf.

The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, in the Rue St.
Honoré, is an excellent foundation; but above all is the
Hétel Dieu for men and women, near Nétre Dame, a
princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the
Charité gave me great satisfaction, in seeing how decently
and christianly the sick people are attended, even to deli-
cacy. I have seen them served by noble persons, men and
women. They have also gardens, walks, and fountains.
Divers persons are here cut for the stone, with great
success, yearly in May. The two Chatelets (supposed to
have been built by Julius Czesar) are places of judicature in
criminal causes; to which is a strong prison. The courts
are spacious and magnificent.

8th. 1 took coach and went to see the famous Jardine
Royale, which is an enclosure walled in, consisting of all
varieties of ground for planting and culture of medical
simples. It is well chosen, having in it hills, meadows,
wood and upland, natural and artficial, and is richly stored
with exotic plants. In the middle of the parterre is a fair
fountain. There is a very fine house, chapel, laboratory,
orangery, and other accommodations for the President,
who is always one of the king’s chief physicians.

From hence, we went to the other side of the town, and
to some distance from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going
by the Bastile, which is the fortress, tower, and magazine
of this great city. It is very spacious within, and there the
Grand Master of the artillery has his house, with fair gar-
dens and walks.

The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble castle,
with magnificent apartments, fit for a royal court, not for-
getting the chapel. It is the chief prison for persons of
quality. About it there is a park walled in, full of deer;
and in one part there is a grove of goodly pine-trees.

The next day, I went to see the Louvre with more atten-
tion, its several courts and pavilions. One of the quad-
rangles, begun by Henry IV., and finished by his son and
grandson, is a superb, but mixed structure. The cornices,

52 Diary of [Paris

mouldings, and compartments, with the insertion of several!
coloured marbles, have been of great expense.

We went through the long gallery, paved with white and
black marble, richly fretted and painted 4 fresco. The front
looking to the river, though of rare work for the carving,
yet wants of that magnificence which a plainer and truer
design would have contributed to it.

In the Cour aux Tuileries is a princely fabric; the wind-
ing geometrical stone stairs, with the cupola, I take to
be as bold and noble a piece of architecture as any in
Europe of the kind. To this is a corps de logis, worthy of
so great a prince. Under these buildings, through a garden
in which is an ample fountain, was the king’s printing-
house, and that famous letter so much esteemed. Here I
bought divers of the classic authors, poets, and others.

We returned through another gallery, larger, but not so
long, where hung the pictures of all the kings and queens
and prime nobility of France.

Descending hence, we were let into a lower very large
room, called the Salle des Antiques, which is a vaulted
Cimelia, destined for statues only, amongst which stands
that so celebrated Diana of the Ephesians, said to be the
same which uttered oracles in that renowned Temple. Be-
sides those colossean figures of marble, I must not forget
the huge globe suspended by chains. The pavings, inlay-
ings, and incrustations of this Hall, are very rich.

In another more private garden towards the Queen’s
apartment is a walk, or cloister, under arches, whose ter-
race is paved with stones of a great breadth; it looks to-
wards the river, and has a pleasant aviary, fountain, stately
cypresses, &c. On the river are seen a prodigious number
of barges and boats of great length, full of hay, corn, wood,
wine, and other commodities, which this vast city daily
consumes. Under the long gallery we have described,
dwell goldsmiths, painters, statuaries, and architects, who
being the most famous for their art in Christendom have
stipends allowed them by the King. Into that of Monsieur —
Saracin ! we entered, who was then moulding for an image
of a Madonna to be cast in gold of a great size, to be sent

1 James Sarazin, a celebrated sculptor, much employed by the
royal family of France. For Cardinal Richelieu he executed, in silver
and gold, Anne of Austria's offering to the Chapel of Loretto, in the

form of a group representing the dauphin’s presentation to the
Virgin Mary. Born 1590, died 1660.

1644] John Evelyn 53

by the Queen Regent to Loretto, as an offering tor the
birth of the Dauphin, now the young King.

I finished this dav with a walk in the great garden of the
Tuileries, rarely contrived tor privacy, shade, or conipany,
by groves, plantations of tall trees, especially that in the
middle, being of elms, the other of mulberries; and that
labyrinth of cypresses; not omitting the noble hedges of
pomegranates, fountains, fish-ponds, and an aviary; but,
above all, the artificial echo, redoubling the words so dis-
tinctly; and, as it is never without some fair nymph sing-
ing to its grateful returns; standing at one of the focuses,
which is under a tree, or little cabinet of hedges, the voice
seems to descend from the clouds; at another, as if it was
underground. This being at the bottom of the garden, we
were let into another, which being kept with all imaginable
accurateness as to the orangery, precious shrubs, and rare
fruits, seemed a Paradise. From a terrace in this place we
saw so many coaches, as one would hardly think could be
maintained in the whole city, going, late as it was in the
year, towards the course, which is a place adjoining, of
near an English mile long, planted with four rows of trees,
making a large circle in the middle. This course is walled
about, near breast high, with squared freestone, and has a
stately arch at the entrance, with sculpture and statues
about it, built by Mary di Medicis. Here it is that the
gallants and ladies of the Court take the air and divert
themselves, as with us in Hyde Park, the circle being
capable of containing a hundred coaches to turn commodi-
ously, and the larger of the plantations for five or six
coaches a-breast.

Returning through the Tuileries, we saw a building in
which are kept wild beasts for the King’s pleasure, a bear,
a wolf, a wild boar, a leopard, &c.

27th February. Accompanied with some English gentle-
men, we took horse to see St. Germains-en-Laye, a stately
country-house of the King, some five leagues from Paris.
By the way, we alighted at St. Cloud, where, on an emi-
nence near the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a garden,
for the house is not very considerable, rarely watered and
furnished with fountains, statues, and groves; the walks are
very fair; the fountain of Laocoon is in a large square pool,
throwing the water near forty feet high, and having about
it a multitude of statues and basins, and is a surprising

54 Diary of [St. Cloud

object. But nothing is more esteemed than the cascade
falling from the great steps into the lowest and longest
walk from the Mount Parnassus, which consists of a grotto,
or shell-house, on the summit of the hill, wherein are divers
waterworks and contrivances to wet the spectators; this is
covered with a fair cupola, the walls painted with the |
Muses, and statues placed thick about it, whereof some are —
antique and good. In the upper walks are two perspect-
ives, seeming to enlarge the alleys, and in this garden are
many other ingenious contrivances. The palace, as I said,
is not extraordinary. The outer walls only painted a fresco.
In the court is a Volary, and the statues of Charles IX.,
Henry III., 1V., and Louis XIII., on horseback, mezzo-
relievo’d in plaster. In the garden is a small chapel; and
under shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the
Belvidere original, with others. From the terrace above is
a tempest well painted; and thence an excellent prospect
towards Paris, the meadows, and river.

At an inn in this village is a host who treats all the great
persons in princely lodgings for furniture and plate, but
they pay well for it, as I have done. Indeed, the enter-
tainment is very splendid, and not unreasonable, consider-
ing the excellent manner of dressing their meat, and of
the service. Here are many debauches and excessive revel-
lings, as being out of all noise and observance.

From hence, about a league farther, we went to see
Cardinal Richelieu’s villa, at Ruell. The house is small, but
fairly built, in form of a castle, moated round. The offices
are towards the road, and over-against it are large vine-
yards, walled in. But, though the house is not of the
greatest, the gardens about it are so magnificent, that I
doubt whether Italy has any exceeding it for all rarities of
pleasure. The garden nearest the pavilion is a parterre,
having in the midst divers noble brass statues, perpetually
spouting water into an ample basin, with other figures of
the same metal; but what is most admirable is the vast
inclosure, and variety of ground, in the large garden, con-
taining vineyards, cornfields, meadows, groves (whereof
one is of perennial greens), and walks of vast length, so
accurately kept and cultivated, that nothing can be more —
agreeable. On one of these walks, within a square of tall |
trees, is a basilisk of copper, which, managed by the —
fountaineer, casts water near sixty feet high, and will of ©

1644] John Evelyn 55

itself move round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape
wetting. This leads to the Citroniére, which is a noble
conserve of all those rarities; and at the end of it is the
Arch of Constantine, painted on a wall in oil, as large as
the real one at Rome, so well done, that even a man skilled
in painting, may mistake it for stone and sculpture. The
sky and hills, which seem to be between the arches, are so
natural, that swallows and other birds, thinking to fiy
through, have dashed themselves against the wall. I was
infinitely taken with this agreeable cheat. At the further
part of this walk is that plentiful, though artificial cascade,
which rolls down a very steep declivity, and over the marble
steps and basins, with an astonishing noise and fury; each
basin hath a jetto in it, flowing like sheets of transparent
giass, especially that which rises over the great shell of
lead, from whence it glides silently down a channel through
the middle of a spacious gravel walk, terminating in a
grotto. Here are also fountains that cast water to a great
height, and large ponds, two of which have islands for
harbour of fowls, of which there is store. One of these
islands has a receptacle for them built of vast pieces of
rock, near fifty feet high, grown over with moss, ivy, &c.,
shaded at a competent distance with tall trees: in this
rupellary nidary do the fowl lay eggs, and breed. We then
saw a large and very rare grotto of shell-work, in the shape
of Satyrs, and other wild fancies: in the middle stands a
marble table, on which a fountain plays in divers forms of
glasses, cups, crosses, fans, crowns, &c. Then the foun-
taineer represented a shower of rain from the top, met by
small jets from below. At going out, two extravagant
musketeers shot us with a stream of water from their
-musket barrels. Before this grotto is a long pool into
which ran divers spouts of water from leaden escalop
basins. The viewing this paradise made us late at St.
Germains.

The first building of this palace is of Charles V., called
the Sage; but Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it com-
plete; speaking as to the style of magnificence then in
fashion, which was with too great a mixture of the Gothic,
as may be seen in what there is remaining of his in the old
Castle, an irregular piece as built on the old foundation, and
having a moat about it. It has yet some spacious and
handsome rooms of state, and a chapel neatly painted. The

50 Diary of [St. Germains

new Castle is at some distance, divided from this by a
court, of a lower, but more modern design, built by Henry
IV. To this belong six terraces, built of brick and stone,
descending in cascades towards the river, cut out of the
natural hill, having under them goodly vaulted galleries ; of
these, four have subterranean grots and rocks, where are_
represented several objects in the manner of scenes and |
other motions, by force of water, shown by the light of
torches only; amongst these, is Orpheus with his music;
and the animals, which dance after his harp; in the second,
is the King and Dolphin ;! in the third, is Neptune sounding
his trumpet, his chariot drawn by sea-horses ; in the fourth,
the story of Perseus and Andromeda; mills; hermitages ;
men fishing; birds chirping; and many other devices.
There is also a dry grot to refresh in; all having a fine
prospect towards the river, and the goodly country about
it, especially the forest. At the bottom, is a parterre; the
upper terrace near half a mile in length, with double
declivities, arched and balustered with stone, of vast and_
royal cost.

In the pavilion of the new Castle are many fair rooms,
well painted, and leading into a very noble garden and
park, where is a pall-mall, in the midst of which, on one
of the sides, is a chapel, with stone cupola, though small,
yet of a handsome order of architecture. Out of the park
you go into the forest, which being very large, is stcred
with deer, wild boars, wolves, and other wild game. The
Tennis Court, and Cavallerizzo, for the menaged horses,
are also observable.

We returned to Paris by Madrid,? another villa of the
King’s, built by Francis I., and called by that name to
absolve him of his oath that he would not go from Madrid
(in which he was prisoner), in Spain, but from whence he
made his escape. This house is also built in a park, and
walled in. We next called in at the Bonnes-hommes, well-
situated, with a fair chapel and library.

1st March. I went to see the Count de Liancourt’s
Palace in the Rue de Seine, which is well built. Towards
his study and bedchamber joins a little garden, which,
though very narrow, by the addition of a well-painted per-
spective, is to appearance greatly enlarged ; to this there is
another part, supported by arches in which runs a stream

1 Dauphin. ® See post, 25th April, 1650.

1644] John Evelyn 57

of water, rising in the aviary, out of a statue, and seeming
to flow for some miles, by being artificially continued in the
painting, when it sinks down at the wall. It is a very
agreeable deceit. At the end of this garden, is a little
theatre, made to change with divers pretty scenes, and the
stage so ordered, with figures of men and women painted
on light boards, and cut out, and, by a person who stands
underneath, made to act as if they were speaking, by guid-
ing them, and reciting words in different tones, as the parts
require. We were led into a round cabinet, where was a
neat invention for reflecting lights, by lining divers sconces
with thin shining plates of gilded copper.

In one of the rooms of state was an excellent painting of
Poussin, being a Satyr kneeling; over the chimney, the
Coronation of the Virgin, by Paulo Veronese; another
Madonna over the door, and that of Joseph, by Cigali; in
the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta, attended by his page, said
to be of Michael Angelo; the Rape of Proserpine, with a
very large landscape of Correggio. In the next room, are
some paintings of Primaticcio, especially the Helena, the
naked Lady brought before Alexander, well-painted, and a
Ceres. In the bed-chamber a picture of the Cardinal de
Liancourt, of Raphael, rarely coloured. In the cabinet are
divers pieces of Bassano, two of Polemburg, four of Paulo
Brill, the skies a little too blue. A Madonna of Nicholao,
excellently painted on a stone; a Judith of Mantegna; three
women of Jeronimo; one of Stenwick; a Madonna after
Titian, and a Magdalen of the same hand, as the Count
esteems it: two small pieces of Paulo Veronese, being the
Martyrdoms of St. Justina and St. Catherine; a.Madonna
of Lucas Van Leyden, sent him from our King; six more
of old Bassano; two excellent drawings of Albert [Durer]; a
Magdalen of Leonardo da Vinci; four of Paulo; a very rare
Madonna of Titian, given him also by our King; the Ecce
Homo, shut up in a frame of velvet, for the life and accurate
finishing exceeding all description. Some curious agates,
and a chaplet of admirable invention, the intaglios being
all on fruit stones. The Count was so exceeding civil, that
he would needs make his lady go out of her dressing-room,
that he might show us the curiosities and pictures in it.

We went thence to visit one Monsieur Perishot, one of
the greatest virtuosos in France, for his collection of pic-
tures, agates, medals, and flowers, especially tulips and

58 D lary of {Charenton

anemones. The chiefest of his paintings was a Sebastian,
of Titian.

From him we went to Monsieur Frene’s, who showed us
many rare drawing's, a Rape of Helen in black chaik; many
excellent things of Sneiders all naked; some of Julio ana
Michael Angelo; a Madonna of Passignano; some things
of Parmensis, and other masters.

The next morning, being recommended to one Monsieur
de Hausse, President du Parliament, and once Ambassador
at Venice for the French King, we were very civilly
received, and showed his library. Amongst his paintings
were, a rare Venus and Adonis of Veronese, a St. Anthony,
after the first manner of Correggio, and a rare Madonna of
Palma.

Sunday, the 6th March, I went to Charenton, two
leagues from Paris, to hear and see the manner of the
French Protestant Church service. The place of meeting
they call the Temple, a very fair and spacious room, built
of freestone, very decently adorned with paintings of the
Tables of the Law, the Lord’s Prayer, and Creed. The
pulpit stands at the upper end in the middle, having an
inclosure of seats about it, where the Elders and persons of
greatest quality and strangers, sit; the rest of the congre-
gation on forms and low stools, but none in pews, as in our
churches, to their great disgrace, as nothing so orderly,
as here the stools and other cumber are removed when the
assembly rises. I was greatly pleased with their harmoni-
ous singing the Psalms, which they all learn perfectly well,
their children being as duly taught these, as their cate-
chism.

In our passage, we went by that famous bridge over the
Marne, where that renowned echo returns the voice of a
good singer nine or ten times.

7th March. I set forwards with some company towards
Fontainebleau, a sumptuous Palace of the King’s, like ours
at Hampton Court, about fourteen leagues from the city.

By the way, we pass through a forest so prodigiously en-

compassed with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone, heaped
one on another in mountainous heights, that I think the like
is nowhere to be found more horrid and solitary. It abounds
with stags, wolves, boars, and not long after a lynx, or
ounce, was killed amongst them, which had devoured some
passengers. On the summit of one of these gloomy preci-

1644] John Evelyn 59

pices, intermingled with trees and shrubs, the stones hang-
ing over, and menacing ruin, is built an hermitage. In
these solitudes, rogues frequently lurk and do mischief (and
for whom we were all well appointed with our carabines) ;
but we arrived safe in the evening at the village, where we
lay at the Horne, going early next morning to the Palace.

This House is nothing so stately and uniform as Hamp-
ton Court, but Francis I. began much to beautify it; most
of all Henry IV. (and not a little) the late King. It abounds
with fair halls, chambers, and galleries; in the longest,
which is 360 feet long and 18 broad, are painted the
Victories of that great Prince, Henry 1V. That of Francis
I., called the grand Gallery, has all the King’s palaces
painted in it; above these, in sixty pieces of excellent work
in fresco, is the History of Ulysses, from Homer, by Prima-
ticcio, in the time of Henry III., esteemed the most
renowned in Europe for the design. The Cabinet is full of
excellent pictures, especially a Woman, of Raphael. In
the Hall of the Guards is a piece of tapestry painted on the
wall, very naturally, representing the victories of Charles
VII. over our countrymen. In the Salle des Festins is a
rare Chimney-piece, and Henry IV. on horseback, of white
marble, esteemed worth 18,000 crowns; Clementia and
Pax, nobly done. On columns of jasper, two lions of brass.
The new stairs, and a half circular court, are of modern and
good architecture, as is a chapel built by Louis XIII., all of
jasper, with several incrustations’of marble through the
inside.

Having seen the rooms, we went to the volary, which has
a cupola in the middle of it, great trees and bushes, it being
full of birds who drank at two fountains. There is also
a fair tennis-court, and noble stables; but the beauty of all
are the gardens. In the Court of the Fountains stand divers
antiquities and statues, especially a Mercury. In the
Queen’s Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountain, with numer-
ous other brass statues.

The great Garden, 180 toises long and 154 wide, has in
the centre a fountain of Tyber of a Colossean figure of
brass, with the Wolf over Romulus and Remus. At each
corner of the garden rises a fountain. In the garden of the
piscina, is a Hercules of white marble : next, is that of the
pines, and without that a canal of an English mile i in length,
at the end of which rise three jettos in the form of a fleur-

I 270 D

60 Diary of [Fontainebleau

de-lis, of a great height; on the margin are excellent walks
planted with trees. The carps come familiarly to hand [to
be fed]. Hence they brought us to a spring, which they
say being first discovered by a dog, gave occasion of
beautifying this place, both with the palace and gardens.
The white and terrific rocks at some distance in the forest,
yield one of the most august and stupendous prospects im-
aginable. The park about this place is very large, and the
town full of noblemen’s houses.

Next morning, we were invited by a painter, who was
keeper of the pictures and rarities, to see his own collection.
We were led through a gallery of old Rosso’s work, at the
end of which, in another cabinet, were three Madonnas of
Raphael, and two of Andrea de! Sarto. In the Academy
where the painter himself wrought, was a St. Michael, of
Raphael, very rare; St. John Baptist, of Leonardo, and a
Woman’s head; a Queen of Sicily, and St. Margaret, of
Raphael; two more Madonnas, whereof one very large, by
the same hand; some more of del Sarto; a St. Jerome,
of Perino del Vaga; the Rape of Proserpine, very good :
and a great number of drawings.

Returning part of our way to Paris, that day, we visited
a house called Maison Rouge, having an excellent prospect,
grot, and fountains, one whereof rises fifty feet, and
resembles the noise of a tempest, battles of guns, &c., at its
issue.

Thence to Essone, a house of Monsieur Essling, who is
a great virtuoso; there are many good paintings in it; but
nothing so observable as his gardens, fountains, fish-pools,
especially that in a triangular form, the water cast out by
a multitude of heads about it: there is a noble cascade and
pretty baths, with all accommodations. Under a marble
table is a fountain of serpents twisting about a globe.

We alighted next at Corbeil, a town famous for the siege
by Henry IV. Here we slept, and returned next morning
to Paris.

18th March. 1! went with Sir J. Cotton, a Cambridge-
shire Knight, a journey into Normandy. The first day, we
passed by Gaillon, the Archbishop of Rouen’s Palace. The
gardens are highly commended, but we did not go in,
intending to reach Pontoise by dinner. This town is built
in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge over the Oise,
and is well refreshed with fountains.

|

1644] John Evelyn 61

This is the first town in Normandy, and the farthest that
the vineyards extend to on this side of the country, which
is fuller of plains, wood, and enclosures, with some towns
towards the sea, very like England.

We lay this night at a village, called Magny. The next
day, descending a very steep hill, we dined at Fleury, after
riding five leagues down St. Catherine, to Rouen, which
affords a goodly prospect, to the ruins of that chapel and
mountain. This country so abounds with wolves that a
shepherd whom we met, told us one of his companions was
strangled by one of them the day before, and that in the
midst of his flock. The fields are mostly planted with pears
and apples, and other cider fruits. It is plentifully furnished
with quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in abund-
ance.

I lay at the White Cross, in Rouen, which is a very large
city, on the Seine, having two smaller rivers besides, called
the Aubette and Robec. There stand yet the ruins of a
magnificent bridge of stone, now supplied by one of boats
only, to which come up vessels of considerable burthen.
The other side of the water consists of meadows, and there
have the Reformed a Church.

The Cathedral Nétre Dame was built, as they acknow-
ledge, by the English; some English words graven in
Gothic characters upon the front seem to confirm it. The
towers and whole church are full of carving. It has three
steeples, with a pyramid; in one of these, I saw the famous
bell so much talked of, thirteen feet in height, thirty-two
round, the diameter eleven, weighing 40,000 pounds.

In the Chapel d’Amboise, built by a Cardinal of that
name, lies his body, with several fair monuments. The
Choir has behind it a great dragon painted on the wall,
which they say had done much harm to the inhabitants, till
vanquished by St. Romain, their Archbishop; for which
there is an annual procession. It was now near Easter, and
many images were exposed with scenes and stories repre-
senting the Passion; made up of little puppets, to which
there was great resort and devotion, with offerings. Before
the church is a fair palace. St. Quen is another goodly
church and an abbey with fine gardens. Here the King
hath lodgings, when he makes his progress through these
parts. The structure, where the Court of Parliament is
kept, is very magnificent, containing very fair halls and

62 Diary of [Dieppe

chambers, especially La Chambre Dorée. The town-house
is also well built, and so are some gentlemen’s houses; but
most part of the rest are of timber, like our merchants’ in
London, in the wooden part of the city.

21st March. On Easter Monday, we dined at Totes, a
solitary inn between Rouen and Dieppe, at which latter —
place we arrived. This town is situated between two
mountains, not unpleasantly, and is washed on the north |
by our English seas.

The port is commodious; but the entrance difficult.
It has one very ample and fair street, in which is a pretty
church. The Fort Pollet consists of a strong earth-work,
and commands the haven, as on the other side does the
castle, which is also well fortified, with the citadel before
it; nor is the town itself a little strong. It abounds with
workmen, who make and sell curiosities of ivory and tor-
toise-shells; and indeed whatever the East Indies afford
of cabinets, porcelain, natural and exotic rarities, are here
to be had, with abundant choice.

23rd March. We passed along the coast by a very rocky
and rugged way, which forced us to alight many times
before we came to Havre de Grace, where we lay that
night.

The next morning, we saw the citadel, strong and
regular, well stored with artillery and ammunition of all
sorts: the works furnished with fair brass cannon, having
a motto, Ratio ultima Regum. The allogements of the
garrison are uniform; a spacious place for drawing up the
soldiers, a pretty chapel, and a fair house for the Governor.
The Duke of Richelieu being now in the fort, we went to
salute him; who received us very civilly, and commanded
that we should be showed whatever we desired to see. Th
citadel was built by the late Cardinal de Richelieu, uncle o
the present Duke, and may be esteemed one of the stronges
in France. The haven is very capacious.

When we had done here, we embarked ourselves and
horses to pass to Honfleur, about four or five leagu
distant, where the Seine falls into the sea. It is a poo
fisher-town, remarkable for nothing so much as the odd
yet useful habits which the good women wear, of bears
and other skins, as of rugs at Dieppe, and all along thes
maritime coasts.

25th. We arrived at Caen, a noble and beautiful town

1644] John Evelyn 63

situate on the river Orne, which passes quite through it,
the two sides of the town joined only by a bridge of one
entire arch. We lay at the Angel, where we were very
well used, the place being abundantly furnished with pro-
visions, at a cheap rate. The most considerable object is
the great Abbey and Church, large and rich, built after the
Gothic manner, having two spires and middle lantern at the
west end, all of stone. The choir round and large, in the
centre whereof, elevated on a square, handsome, but plain
sepulchre, is this inscription :

*‘ Hoc sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi conquestoris,
Gulielmi, dum viverat Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Cenomanno-
rumque Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris : Cum
anno 1562 vesano hereticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem
nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam
beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, a® D’ni 1642. D’no Johanne
de Bailhache Assztorii proto priore. D.D.”’

On the other side are these monkish rhymes :

“Qui rexit rigidos Northmannos, atq. Britannos

Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit,

Et Cenomanensis virtute ce6rcuit ensis,
Imperiique sui Legibus applicuit.

Rex magnus parva jacet hac Gulielm* in Urna,
Sufficit et magno parya domus Domino.

Ter septem gradibus te volverat atq. duobus
Virginis in gremio Phcebus, et hic obiit.”’

We went to the castle, which is strong and fair, and so
is the town-house, built on the bridge which unites the
two towns. Here are schools and an University for the
Jurists.

The whole town is handsomely built of that excellent
stone so well known by that name in England. I was led
to a pretty garden, planted with hedges of alaternus,
having at the entrance a skreen at an exceeding height,
accurately cut in topiary work, with well-understood archi-
tecture, consisting of pillars, niches, friezes, and other
ornaments, with great curiosity; some of the columns
curiously wreathed, others spiral, all according to art.

28th March. We went towards Paris, lying the first
night at Evreux, a Bishop’s seat, an ancient town, with
a fair cathedral; so the next day we arrived at Paris.

1st April. I went to see more exactly the rooms of the
fine Palace of Luxemburg, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains,

64 Diary of [Paris

built by Mary di Medicis, and I think one of the most |
noble, entire, and finished piles that is to be seen, taking it
with the garden and all its accomplishments. The gallery
is of the painting of Rubens, being the history of the Foun-
dress’s Life, rarely designed; at the end of it is the Duke
of Orleans’ library, well furnished with excellent books, all
bound in maroquin and gilded, the valance of the shelves
being of green velvet, fringed with gold. In the cabinet
joining to it are only the smaller volumes, with six cabinets
of medals, and an excellent collection of shells and agates,
whereof some are prodigiously rich. This Duke being very
learned in medals and plants, nothing of that kind escapes
him. There are other spacious, noble, and princely fur-
nished rooms, which look towards the gardens, which are
nothing inferior to the rest.

The court below is formed into a square by a corridor,
having over the chief entrance a stately cupola, covered
with stone: the rest is cloistered and arched on pilasters
of rustic work. The terrace ascending before the front,
paved with white and black marble, is balustered with white
marble, exquisitely polished.

Only the hall below is low, and the staircase somewhat
of a heavy design, but the faccia towards the parterre,
which is also arched and vaulted with stone, is of admir-
able beauty, and full of sculpture.

The gardens are near an English mile in compass,
enclosed with a stately wall, and in a good air. The par-
terre is indeed of box, but so rarely designed and accurately
kept cut, that the embroidery makes a wonderful effect to
the lodgings which front it. ’Tis divided into four squares,
and as many circular knots, having in the centre a noble
basin of marble near thirty feet diameter (as 1 remember),
in which a Triton of brass holds a dolphin, that casts a
girandola of water near thirty feet high, playing perpetually,
the water being conveyed from Arceuil by an aqueduct of
stone, built after the old Roman magnificence. About thi
ample parterre, the spacious walks and all included, runs
border of freestone, adorned with pedestals for pots an
statues, and part of it near the steps of the terrace, with
rail and baluster of pure white marble.

The walks are exactly fair, long, and variously descend
ing, and so justly planted with limes, elms, and other trees
that nothing can be more delicious, especially that of th

644) John Evelyn 65

hornbeam hedge, which being high and stately, buts full on
the fountain. Y

Towards the farther end, is an excavation intended for
a vast fish-pool, but never finished, and near it is an in-
closure for a garden of simples, well-kept; and here the
Duke keeps tortoises in great number, who use the pool of
water on one side of the garden. Here is also a conserva-
tory for snow. At the upper part, towards the palace, is
a grove of tall elms cut into a star, every ray being a walk,
whose centre is a large fountain.

The rest of the ground is made into several inclosures
(all hedge-work or rows of trees) of whole fields, meadows,
bocages, some of them containing divers acres.

Next the street side, and more contiguous to the house,
are knots in trail, or grass work, where likewise runs a
fountain. Towards the grotto and stables, within a wall, is
a garden of choice flowers, in which the Duke spends many
thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing is wanted to render
this palace and gardens perfectly beautiful and magnificent ;
nor is it one of the least diversions to see the number of
persons of quality, citizens and strangers, who frequent it,
and to whom all access is freely permitted, so that you
shall see some walks and retirements full of gallants and
ladies; in others, melancholy friars; in others, studious
scholars ; in others, jolly citizens, some sitting or lying on
the grass, others running and jumping; some playing at
bowls and ball, others dancing and singing; and all this
without the least disturbance, by reason of the largeness of
the place.

What is most admirable, you see no gardeners, or men
at work, and yet all is kept in such exquisite order, as if
they did nothing else but work; it is so early in the morn-
ing, that all is despatched and done without the least
confusion.

I have been the larger in the description of this paradise,
for the extraordinary delight I have taken in those sweet
retirements. The Cabinet and Chapel nearer the garden-
front have some choice pictures. All the houses’ near this
are also very noble palaces, especially Petite Luxemburg.
The ascent of the street is handsome from its breadth,
situation, and buildings.

I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques’
steeple, esteemed the highest in the town, from whence |

66 Diary of [Paris

had a full view of the whole city and suburbs, both which,
as I judge, are not so large as London: though the dis-
similitude of their several forms and situations, this being
round, London long,—renders it difficult to determine; but
there is no comparison between the buildings, palaces, and
materials, this being entirely of stone and more sumptuous,
though I esteem our piazzas to exceed theirs.

Hence | took a turn in St. Innocent’s churchyard, where
the story of the devouring quality of the ground (consuming
bodies in twenty-four hours), the vast charnels of bones,
tombs, pyramids, and sepulchres, took up much of my time,
together with the hieroglyphical characters of Nicholas
flamel’s philosophical work, who had founded this church,
and divers other charitable establishments, as he testifies in
his book.

Here divers clerks get their livelihood by inditing letters
for poor maids and other ignorant people who come to them
for advice, and to write for them into the country, both to
their sweethearts, parents, and friends; every large grave-
stone serving for a table. Joining to this church is a
common fountain, with good relievos upon it.

The next day I was carried to see a French gentleman’s
curious collection, which abounded in fair and rich jewels
of all sorts of precious stones, most of them of great sizes
and value; agates and onyxes, some of them admirably
coloured and antique; nor inferior were his landscapes from
the best hands, most of which he had caused to be copied
in miniature; one of which, rarely painted on stone, was
broken by one of our company, by the mischance of setting
it up: but such was the temper and civility of the gentle-
man, that it altered nothing of his free and noble humour.

The next morning, I was had by a friend to the garden of
Monsieur Morine, who, from being an ordinary gardener,
is become one of the most skilful and curious persons in
France for his rare collection of shells, flowers, and insects.

His garden is of an exact oval figure, planted with
cypress, cut flat and set as even as a wall: the tulips,
anemones, ranunculuses, crocuses, &c., are held to be of
the rarest, and draw all the admirers of that kind to his
house during the season. He lived in a kind of hermitag
at one side of his garden, where his collection of porcelai
and coral, whereof one is carved into a large crucifix, i
much esteemed. He has also books of prints, by Alber

1644] John Evelyn 67

[Durer], Van Leyden, Callot, &c. His collection of all
sorts of insects, especially of butterflies, is most curious ;
these he spreads and so medicates, that no corruption
invading them, he keeps them in drawers, so placed as to
represent a beautiful piece of tapestry.

He showed me the remarks he had made on their propa-
gation, which he promised to publish. Some of these, as
also of his best flowers, he had caused to be painted in
miniature by rare hands, and some in oil.

6th April. I sent my sister my own picture in water-
colours,! which she requested of me and went to see divers
of the fairest palaces of the town, as that of Vendéme, very
large and stately ; Longueville; Guise ; Condé; Chevereuse ;
Nevers, esteemed one of the best in Paris towards the
river.

I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed by
Richelieu to the King, on condition that it should be called
by his name; at this time, the King resided in it, because
of the building of the Louvre. It is a very noble house,
though somewhat low; the galleries, paintings of the most
illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queen’s baths, pre-
sence-chamber with its rich carved and gilded roof, theatre,
and large garden, in which is an ample fountain, grove,
and mall, worthy of remark. Here I also frequently went
to see them ride and exercise the great horse, especially at
the Academy of Monsieur de Plessis, and de Veau, whose:
schools of that art are frequented by the nobility ; and here
also young gentlemen are taught to fence, dance, play on
music, and something in fortification and the mathematics.
The design is admirable, some keeping near a hundred
brave horses, all managed to the great saddle.

12th. 1 took coach, to see a general muster of al! the
gens d’armes about the City, in the Bois de Boulogne,
before their Majesties, and all the Grandees. They were
reputed to be near 20,000, besides the spectators, who
much exceeded them in number. Here they performed all

1 In the first and second editions of the Diary many trifling personal
details, such as this mention of the author having sent his own
picture in water-colours to his sister, were omitted. It is not neces-
sary to point them out in detail. They are always of this personal
character; as, among other examples, the mention of the wet weather
preventing the diarist from stirring out, at p. 117, and that of his
coming weary to his lodgings, at p. 114.

I 220 #1

68 D lary of [Orleans

their motions; and, being drawn up, horse and foot, into
several figures, represented a battle.

The summer now drawing near, I determined to spend
the rest of it in some more remote town on the river Loire;
and, on 19th April, I took leave of Paris, and, by the way
of the messenger, agreed for my passage to Orleans.

The way from Paris to this city, as indeed most of the
roads in France, is paved with a small square freestone, so
that the country does not much molest the traveller with
dirt and ill way, as in England, only ’tis somewhat hard
to the poor horses’ feet, which causes them to ride more
temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or grand pas, as
they call it. We passed divers walled towns, or villages ;
amongst others of note, Chartres and Etampes, where we
lay the first night. This has a fair church, The next day,
we had an excellent road; but had like to come short home :
for no sooner were we entered two or three leagues into the
Forest of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the
company behind us were set on by rogues, who, shooting
from the hedges and frequent covert, slew four upon the
spot. Amongst the slain was a captain of Swiss, of the
regiment of Picardy, a person much lamented. This dis-
aster made such an alarm in Orleans at our arrival, that the
Prevét Marshal, with his assistants, going in pursuit,
brought in two whom they had shot, and exposed them in
the great market-place, to see if any would take cognisance
of them. I had great cause to give God thanks for this
escape; when coming to Orleans and lying at the White
Cross, I found Mr. John Nicholas, eldest son to Mr.
Secretary. In the night a cat kittened on my bed, and left
on it a young one having six ears, eight legs, two bodies
from the middle downwards, and two tails. I found it
dead, but warm, in the morning when I awaked.!

21st April. I went about to view the city, which is well
built of stone, on the side of the Loire. About the middle
of the river is an island, full of walks and fair trees, with

1 This passage has not been printed since the quarto editions, and it
would be difficult to say what induced its omission in the octavo
editions, unless Evelyn’s apparent confusion as to the name of the inn
at Orleans where the adventure occurred (for he calls it the White
Lion as well as the White Cross) may have caused the original editor
to doubt the miracle altogether. As printed in the quarto, it begins

‘“T lay at the White Lion, where I found Mr. John Nicholas, eldest
son to Mr. Secretary,’’ &c.—[Note to 1850 Edition.]

1644] John Evelyn 69

some houses. This is contiguous to the town by a stately
stone-bridge, reaching to the opposite suburbs, built like-
wise on the edge of a hill, from whence is a beautiful
prospect. At one of the extremes of the bridge are strong
towers, and about the middle, on one side, is the statue
of the Virgin Mary, or Pieta, with the dead Christ in her
lap, as big as the life. At one side of the cross, kneels
Charles VII. armed, and at the other Joan d’Arc, armed
also like a cavalier, with boots and spurs, her hair dis-
hevelled, as the deliveress of the town from our country-
men, when they besieged it. The figures are all cast in
copper, with a pedestal full of inscriptions, as well as a
fair column joining it, which is all adorned with fleurs-de-lis
and a crucifix, with two saints proceeding (as it were) from
two branches out of its capital. The inscriptions on the
cross are in Latin: ‘‘ Mors Christi in cruce nos a con-
tagione, labis et eternorum morborum sanavit.’’ On the
pedestal : ‘‘ Rex in hoc signo hostes profligavit, et Johanna
Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab impiis diruta,
restituta sunt hoc anno D’ni 1578. Jean Buret, m. f.’’—
‘‘ Octannoque Galliam servitute Britannica liberavit. A
Domino factum est illud, et est mirabile in oculis nostris ;
in quorum memoria hec nostre fidei Insignia.’’ To this
is made an annual procession on 12th May, mass being
sung before it, attended with great ceremony and concourse
of people. The wine of this place is so strong, that the
King’s cup-bearers are, as I was assured, sworn never to
give the King any of it: but it is a very noble liquor, and
much of it transported into other countries. The town is
much frequented by strangers, especially Germans, for the
great purity of the language here spoken, as well as for
divers other privileges, and the University, which causes
the English to make no long sojourn here, except such as
can drink and debauch. The city stands in the county of
Bealse (Blaisois); was once styled a Kingdom, afterwards
a Duchy, as at present, belonging to the second son of
France. Many Councils have been held here, and some
Kings crowned. The University is very ancient, divided
now by the students into that of four nations, French, High
Dutch, Normans, and Picardines, who have each their
respective protectors, several officers, treasurers, consuls,
seals, &c. There are in it two reasonable fair public
libraries, whence one may borrow a book to one’s chamber,

70 Diary of [Blois

giving but a note under hand, which is an extraordinary
custom, and a confidence that has cost many libraries dear.
The first church I went to visit was St. Croix; it has been
a stately fabric, but now much ruined by the late civil wars.
They report the tower of it to have been the highest in
France. There is the beginning of a fair reparation. About
this cathedral is a very spacious cemetery. The town-
house is also very nobly built, with a high tower to it. The
market-place and streets, some whereof are deliciously
planted with limes, are ample and straight, so well paved
with a kind of pebble, that 1 have not seen a neater town
in France. In fine, this city was by Francis I. esteemed
the most agreeable of his vast dominions.

28th April. Taking boat on the Loire, I went towards
Blois, the passage and river being both very pleasant.
Passing Mehun, we dined at Baugenci, and slept at a little
town called St. Dieu. Quitting our bark, we hired horses
to Blois, by the way of Chambord, a famous house of the
King’s, built by Francis I. in the middle of a solitary park,
full of deer, enclosed with a wall. I was particularly
desirous of seeing this palace, from the extravagance of the
design, especially the stair-case, mentioned by Palladio.
It is said that 1800 workmen were constantly employed in
this fabric for twelve years: if so, it is wonderful that it
was not finished, it being no greater than divers gentle-
men’s houses in England, both for room and circuit. The
carvings are indeed very rich and full. The stair-case is
devised with four entries, or ascents, which cross one
another, so that though four persons meet, they never come
in sight, but by small loop-holes, till they land. It consists
of 274 steps (as I remember), and is an extraordinary work,
but of far greater expense than use or beauty. The
chimneys of the house appear like so many towers.
About the whole is a large deep moat. The country
about is full of corn, and wine, with many fair noblemen’s
houses.

We arrived at Blois, in the evening. The town is hilly,
uneven, and rugged, standing on the side of the Loire,
having suburbs joined by a stately stone bridge, on which
is a pyramid with an inscription. At the entrance of the
castle is a stone statue of Louis XII. on horseback, as large
as life, under a Gothic state; and a little below are these
words :

1644] John Evelyn 71

Hic ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo,
Sumpsit honorat4 regia sceptra manu ;

Felix quz tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis!
Gallica non alio principe digna fuit.

Under this is a very wide pair of gates, nailed full of
wolves and wild-boars’ heads. Behind the castle the pre-
sent Duke Gaston had begun a fair building, through which
we walked into a large garden, esteemed for its furniture
one of the fairest, especially for simples and exotic plants,
in which he takes extraordinary delight. On the right hand
is a long gallery full of ancient statues and inscriptions,
both of marble and brass; the length, 300 paces, divides
the garden into higher and lower ground, having a very
noble fountain. There is the portrait of a hart, taken in the
forest by Louis XII., which has twenty-four antlers on its
head. In the Collegiate Church of St. Saviour, we saw
many sepulchres of the Earls of Blois.

On Sunday, being May-day, we walked up into Pall Mall,
very long, and so noble shaded with tall trees (being in the
midst of a great wood), that unless that of Tours, I had
not seen a statelier.

From hence, we proceeded with a friend of mine through
the adjoining forest, to see if we could meet any wolves,
which are here in such numbers that they often come and
take children out of the very streets ; yet will not the Duke,
who is sovereign here, permit them to be destroyed. We
walked five or six miles outright; but met with none; yet
a gentleman, who was resting himself under a tree, with
his horse grazing by him, told us that, half an hour before,
two wolves had set upon his horse, and had in probability
devoured him, but for a dog which lay by him. At a little
village at the end of this wood, we eat excellent cream,
and visited a castle building on a very steep cliff.

Blois is a town where the language is exactly spoken; the
inhabitants very courteous; the air so good, that it is the
ordinary nursery of the King’s children. The people are so
ingenious, that, for goldsmith’s work and watches, no place
in France affords the like. The pastures by the river are
very rich and pleasant.

2nd May. We took boat again, passing by Charmont,
a proud castle on the left hand; before it is a sweet island,
deliciously shaded with tall trees. A little distance from
hence, we went on shore at Amboise, a very agreeable

72 Diary of [Tours

village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue
slate, as the towns on the Loire generally are; but the castle
chiefly invited us, the thickness of whose towers from the
river to the top, was admirable. We entered by the draw-
bridge, which has an invention to let one fall, if not pre-
monished. It is full of halls and spacious chambers, and
one Stair-case is large enough, and sufficiently commodious,
to receive a coach, and land it on the very tower, as they
told us had been done. There is some artillery in it; but
that which is most observable is in the ancient chapel, viz.
a stag’s head, or branches, hung up by chains, consisting
of twenty brow-antlers, the beam bigger than a man’s
middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed, it is mon-
strous, and yet | cannot conceive how it should be artificial :
they show also the ribs and vertebre of the same beast; but
these might be made of whalebone.

Leaving the castle, we passed Mont Louis, a village
having no houses above ground, but such only as are hewn
out of the main rocks of excellent freestone. Here and
there the funnel of a chimney appears on the surface
amongst the vineyards which are over them, and in this
manner they inhabit the caves, as it were sea-cliffs, on one
side of the river for many miles.

We now came within sight of Tours, where we were
designed for the rest of the time I had resolved to stay in
France, the sojournment being so agreeable. Tours is
situate on the easy side of a hill on the river Loire, having
a fair bridge of stone called St. Edme; the streets are very
long, straight, spacious, well-built, and exceeding clean;
the suburbs large and pleasant, joined to the city by
another bridge. Both the church and monastery of St.
Martin are large, of Gothic building, having four square
towers, fair organs, and a stately altar, where they show
the bones and ashes of St. Martin, with other relics. The
Mall without comparison is the noblest in Europe for length _
and shade, having seven rows of the tallest and goodliest
elms I had ever beheld, the innermost of which do so
embrace each other, and at such a height, that nothing can
be more solemn and majestical. Here we played a party,
or party or two, and then walked about the town-walls,
built of square stone, filled with earth, and having a moat.
No city in France exceeds it in beauty, or delight.

6th May. We went to St. Gatian, reported to have been

1644] John Evelyn 73

built by our countrymen; the dial and clock-work are much
esteemed. The church has two handsoine towers and spires
of stone, and the whole fabric is very noble and venerable.
To this joins the Palace of the Archbishop, consisting both
of old and new building, with many fair rooms, and a fair
garden. Here I grew acquainted with one Monsieur Merey,
a very good musician. The Archbishop treated me very
courteously. We visited divers other churches, chapels,
and monasteries, for the most part neatly built, and full of
pretty paintings, especially the Convent of the Capuchins,
which has a prospect over the whole city, and many fair
walks.

8th. I went to see their manufactures in silk (for in
this town they drive a very considerable trade with silk-
worms), their pressing and watering the grograms and
camlets, with weights of an extraordinary poise, put into
a rolling-engine. Here I took a master of the language,
and studied the tongue very diligently, recreating myself
sometimes at the mall, and sometimes about the town.
The house opposite my lodging had been formerly a King’s
palace; the outside was totally covered with fleur-de-lis,
embossed out of the stone. Here Mary de Medicis held
her Court, when she was compelled to retire from Paris by
the persecution of the great Cardinal.

25th May. Was the Féte Dieu, and a goodly procession
of all the religious orders, the whole streets hung with their
best tapestries, and their most precious moveables exposed ;
silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and pictures in abundance;
the streets strewed with flowers, and full of pageantry,
banners, and bravery.

6th June. I went by water to visit that goodly and
venerable Abbey of Marmoutiers, being one of the greatest
in the kingdom: to it is a very ample church of stone, with
a very high pyramid. Amongst other relics the Monks
showed us is the Holy Ampoulle, the same with that which
sacres their Kings at Rheims, this being the one that
anointed Henry IV. Ascending many steps, we went into
the Abbot’s Palace, where we were showed a vast tun (as
big as that at Heidelberg), which they report St. Martin
(as I remember) filled from one cluster of grapes growing
there.

7th. We walked about two miles from the city to an
agreeable solitude, called Du Plessis, a house belonging to

74 Diary of [Tours

the King. It has many pretty gardens, full of nightingales :
and, in the chapel, lies buried the famous poet, Ronsard.

Returning, we stepped into a Convent of Franciscans,
called St. Cosmo, where the cloister is painted with the
miracles of their St. Francis 4 Paula, whose ashes lie in
their chapel, with this inscription: ‘‘ Corpus Sancti Fran.
& Paula 1507. 13 Aprilis. concrematur verd ab Hereticis
anno 1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hic jacent.’’ The
tomb has four small pyramids of marble at each corner.

gth. I was invited to a vineyard, which was so arti-
ficially planted and supported with arched poles, that stoop-
ing down one might see from end to end, a very great
length, under the vines, the bunches hanging down in
abundance.

2oth. We took horse to see certain natural caves, called
Gouttiére, near Colombitre, where there is a spring within
the bowels of the earth, very deep and so excessive cold,
that the drops meeting with some lapidescent matter, it
converts them into a hard stone, which hangs about it like
icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures and
sugar plums, as we call them.

Near this, we went under the ground almost two fur-
longs, lighted with candles, to see the source and spring
which serves the whole city, by a passage cut through the
main rock of freestone.

28th June. I went to see the palace and gardens of
Chevereux, a sweet place.

30th. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche
Corbé, to the ruins of an old and very strong castle, said
to have been built by the English, of great height, on the
precipice of a dreadful cliff, from whence the country and
river yield a most incomparable prospect. .

27th July. I heard excellent music at the Jesuits, who
have here a school and convent, but a mean chapel. We
have now store of those admirable melons, so much cele-
brated in France for the best in the kingdom.

1st August. My valet, one Garro, a Spaniard, born in |
Biscay, having misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him ;
he demanded of me (besides his wages) no less than 100
crowns to carry him to his country; refusing to pay it, as
no part of our agreement, he had the impudence to arrest
me; the next day I was to appear in Court, where both
our avocats pleaded before the Lieutenant Civil; but it

1644] John Evelyn 75

was so unreasonable a pretence, that the Judge had not
patience to hear it out. The Judge immediately acquitting
me, after he had reproached the avocat who took part with
my servant, he rose from the Bench, and making a courte-
ous excuse to me, that being a stranger I should be so
used, he conducted me through the court to the street-door.
This varlet afterwards threatened to pistol me. The next
day, I waited on the Lieutenant, to thank him for his great
civility.

18th. The Queen of England came to Tours, having
newly arrived in France, and going for Paris. She was
very nobly received by the people and clergy, who went
to meet her with the trained bands. After the harangue,
the Archbishop entertained her at his Palace, where I paid
my duty to her. The 2oth she set forward to Paris.

8th September. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris
to this place, where I settled them in their pension and
exercises.

14th. We took post for Richelieu, passing by I’Isle
Bouchard, a village in the way. The next day, we arrived,
and went to see the Cardinal’s Palace, near it. The town
is built in a low, marshy ground, having a narrow river
cut by hand, very even and straight, capable of bringing
up a small vessel. It consists of only one considerable
street, the houses on both sides (as indeed throughout the
town) built exactly uniform, after a modern handsome
design. It has a large goodly market-house and place,
opposite to which is the church built of freestone, having
two pyramids of stone, which stand hollow from the towers.
The church is well-built, and of a well-ordered architecture,
within handsomely paved and adorned. To this place
belongs an Academy, where, besides the exercise of the
horse, arms, dancing, &c., all the sciences are taught in
the vulgar French by professors stipendiated by the great
Cardinal, who by this, the cheap living there, and divers
privileges, not only designed the improvement of the vulgar
language, but to draw people and strangers to the town;
but since the Cardinal’s death, it is thinly inhabited ; stand-
ing so much out of the way, and in a place not well situated
for health, or pleasure. He was allured to build by the
name of the place, and an old house there belonging to his
ancestors. This pretty town is handsomely walled about
and moated, with a kind of slight fortification, two fair

76 Diary of [Bourges

gates and draw-bridges. Before the gate, towards the
palace, is a spacious circle, where the fair is annually kept.
About a flight-shot from the town is the Cardinal’s house,
a princely pile, though on an old design, not altogether
Gothic, but mixed, and environed by a clear moat. The
rooms are stately, most richly furnished with tissue,
damask, arras, and velvet, pictures, statues, vases, and all
sorts of antiquities, especially the Cesars, in oriental
alabaster. The long gallery is painted with the famous —
acts of the Founder; the roof with the life of Julius Cesar;
at the end of it is a cupola, or singing theatre, supported
by very stately pillars of black marble. The chapel anciently
belonged to the family of the Founder. The court is very
ample. The gardens without are very large, and the par-
terres of excellent embroidery, set with many statues of
brass and marble; the groves, meadows, and walks are a
real Paradise.

16th September. We returned to Tours, from whence,
after nineteen weeks’ sojourn, we travelled towards the
more southern part of France, minding now to shape my —
course so, as I might winter in Italy. With my friend, |
Mr. Thicknesse, and our guide, we went the first day seven
leagues to a castle called Chenonceau, built by Catherine
de Medicis, and now belonging to the Duke de Vendéme,
standing on a bridge. In the gallery, amongst divers other
excellent statues, is that of Scipio Africanus, of oriental
alabaster.

21st September. We passed by Villefranche, where we
dined, and so by Muneton, lying at Viaron-au-mouton,
which was twenty leagues. The next day by Murg to
Bourges, four leagues, where we spent the day. This is
the capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the
Dutch, situated on the river Eure. It stands high, is
strong, and well placed for defence; is environed with
meadows and vines, and the living here is very cheap. In
the suburbs of St. Privé, there is a fountain of sharp water
which they report wholesome against the stone. They
showed us a vast tree which they say stands in the centre
of France. The French tongue is spoken with great purity
in this place. St. Stephen’s church is the cathedral, welli-
built 4 la Gothique, full of sepulchres without-side, with
the representation of the final Judgment over one of the
ports. Here they show the chapel of Claude de la Chastre,

1644] John Evelyn 77

a famous soldier, who had served six kings of France in
their wars. St. Chapelle is built much like that at Paris,
full of relics, and containing the bones of one Briat, a giant
of fifteen cubits high. It was erected by John Duke of
Berry, and there is showed the coronet of the dukedom.
The great tower is a Pharos for defence of the town, very
strong, in thickness eighteen feet, fortified with graffs and
works; there is a garrison in it, and a strange engine for
throwing great stones, and the iron cage where Louis,
Duke of Orleans, was kept by Charles VIII. Near the
Town-house stands the College of Jesuits, where was here-
tofore an Amphitheatre. I was courteously entertained by
a Jesuit, who had us into the garden, where we fell into
disputation. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth seeing.
Bourges is an Archbishopric, and Primacy of Aquitaine.
I took my leave of Mr. Nicholas, and some other English
there; and, on the 23rd, proceeded on my journey by Pont
du Charge; and lay that evening at Coulaiure, thirteen
leagues.

24th September. By Franchesse, St. Menoux, thence to
Moulins, where we dined. This is the chief town of the
Bourbonnois, on the river Allier, very navigable. The
streets are fair; the Castle has a noble prospect, and has
been the seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty park and
garden. After dinner, came many who offered knives and
scissors to sell; it being a town famous for these trifles.
This Duchy of Bourbon is ordinarily assigned for the dowry
of the Queens of France.

Hence, we took horse for Varennes, an obscure village,
where we lay that night. The next day, we went somewhat
out of the way to see the town of Bourbon 1’Archambaut,
from whose ancient and rugged castle is derived the name
of the present Royal Family of France.! The castle stands
on a flinty rock, overlooking the town. In the midst of the
streets are some baths of medicinal waters, some of them
excessive hot, but nothing so neatly walled and adorned as
ours in Somersetshire; and indeed they are chiefly used
to drink of, our Queen being then lodged there for that pur-
pose. After dinner, I went to see the St. Chapelle, a prime
place of devotion, where is kept one of the thorns of our

1 The ‘‘ obscure village ’’ to which Evelyn refers, was destined to

have a more memorable association, in later years, with that unhappy
family.

78 Diary of [Lyons

Saviour’s crown, and a piece of the real cross; excellent
paintings on glass, and some few statues of stone and
wood, which they show for curiosities. Hence, we went
forward to La Palise, a village that lodged us that night.
26th. We arrived at Roane, where we quitted our guide,
and took post for Lyons. Roane seemed to me one of the
pleasantest and most agreeable places imaginable, for a
retired person : for, besides the situation on the Loire, there
are excellent provisions cheap and abundant. It being late
when we left this town, we rode no farther than Tarare
that night (passing St. Saforin), a little desolate village in a
valley near a pleasant stream, encompassed with fresh
meadows and vineyards. The hills which we rode over
before we descended, and afterwards, on the Lyons side of
this place, are high and mountainous; fir and pines grow-
ing frequently on them. The air methought was much
altered as well as the manner of the houses, which are
built flatter, more after the eastern manner. Before I went
to bed, I took a landscape of this pleasant terrace. There
followed a most violent tempest of thunder and lightning.
27th September. We rode by Pont Charu to Lyons,
which being but six leagues we soon accomplished, having
made eighty-five leagues from Tours in seven days. Here,
at the Golden Lion, rue de Flandre, I met divers of my
acquaintance, who, coming from Paris, were designed for
Italy. We lost no time in seeing the city, because of being
ready to accompany these gentlemen in their journey.
Lyons is excellently situated on the confluence of the rivers
Soane and Rhone, which wash the walls of the city in a
very rapid stream; each of these has its bridge; that over
the Rhone consists of twenty-eight arches. The two high
cliffs, called St. Just and St. Sebastian, are very stately;
on one of them stands a strong fort, garrisoned. We
visited the cathedral, St. Jean, where was one of the fairest
clocks for art and busy invention I had ever seen. The
fabric of the church is gothic, as are likewise those of St. —
Etienne and St. Croix. From the top of one of the towers
of St. Jean (for it has four) we beheld the whole city and |
country, with a prospect reaching to the Alps, many leagues —
distant. The Archbishop’s Palace is fairly built. The
church of St. Nisier is the greatest; that of the Jacobins is
well built. Here are divers other fine churches and very
noble buildings we had not time to visit, only that of the

1644] John Evelyn 79

Charité, or great hospital for poor infirm people, entertain-
ing about 1500 souls, with a school, granary, gardens, and
all conveniences, maintained at a wonderful expense,
worthy seeing. The place of the Belle Cour is very spacious,
observable for the view it affords, so various and agree-
able, of hills, rocks, vineyards, gardens, precipices, and
other extravagant and incomparable advantages, present-
ing themselves together. The Pall Mall is set with fair
trees. In fine, this stately, clean, and noble city, built
all of stone, abounds in persons of quality and rich mer-
chants: those of Florence obtaining great privileges above
the rest. In the Town-house, they show two tables of
brass, on which is engraven Claudius’s speech, pronounced
to the Senate, concerning the franchising of the town, with
the Roman privileges. There are also other antiquities.

30th September. We bargained with a waterman to
carry us to Avignon on the river, and got the first night
to Vienne, in Dauphiné. This is an Archbishopric, and
the province gives title to the Heir-apparent of France.
Here we supped and lay, having amongst other dainties,
a dish of truffles, which is a certain earth-nut, found out
by a hog trained to it, and for which those animals are
sold at a great price. It is in truth an incomparable meat.
We were showed the ruins of an amphitheatre, pretty
entire; and many handsome palaces, especially that of
Pontius Pilate, not far from the town, at the foot of a
solitary mountain, near the river, having four pinnacles.
Here it is reported he passed his exile, and precipitated
himself into the lake not far from it. The house is modern,
and seems to be the seat of some gentleman; being in a
very pleasant, though melancholy place. The cathedral
of Vienne is St. Maurice; and there are many other pretty
buildings, but nothing more so, than the mills where they
hammer and polish the sword-blades.

Hence, the next morning we swam (for the river here is
so rapid that the boat was only steered) to a small village
called Thein, where we dined. Over-against this is another
town, named Tournon, where is a very strong castle under
a high precipice. To the castle joins the Jesuits’ College,
who have a fair library. The prospect was so tempting,
that I could not forbear designing it with my crayon.

We then came to Valence, a capital city carrying the
title of a Duchy; but the Bishop is now sole Lord temporal

80 Diary of [Avignon

of it, and the country about it. The town having a Uni-
versity famous for the study of the civil law, is much
frequented; but the churches are none of the fairest,
having been greatly defaced in the time of the wars. The
streets are full of pretty fountains. The citadel is strong
and garrisoned. Here we passed the night, and the next
morning by Pont St. Esprit, which consists of twenty-two
arches; in the piers of the arches are windows, as it were,
to receive the water when it is high and full. Here we
went on shore, it being very dangerous to pass the bridge
in a boat.

Hence, leaving our barge, we took horse, seeing at a
distance the town and principality of Orange; and, lodg-
ing one night on the way, we arrived at noon at Avignon.
This town has belonged to the Popes ever since the time
of Clement V.; being, in 1352, alienated by Jane, Queen of
Naples and Sicily. Entering the gates, the soldiers at
the guard took our pistols and carbines, and examined us
very strictly; after that, having obtained the Governor’s
and the Vice-Legate’s leave to tarry three days, we were
civilly conducted to our lodging. The city is on the Rhone, |
and divided from the newer part, or town, which is on |
the other side of the river, by a very fair stone bridge
(which has been broken); at one end is a very high rock,
on which is a strong castle well furnished with artillery.
The walls of the city are of large square freestone, the
most neat and best in repair I ever saw. It is full of well-
built palaces; those of the Vice-Legate and Archbishop
being the most magnificent. There are many sumptuous
churches, especially that of St. Magdalene and St. Martial,
wherein the tomb of the Cardinal d’Amboise is the most
observable. Clement VI. lies buried in that of the Celes-
tines, the altar whereof is exceeding rich: but for nothing
1 more admired it than the tomb of Madonna Laura, the
celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We saw the Arsenal, the
Pope’s Palace, and the Synagogue of the Jews, who here
are distinguished by their red hats. Vaucluse, so much
renowned for the solitude of Petrarch, we beheld from the
castle; but could not go to visit it for want of time, being
now taking mules and a guide for Marseilles.

We lay at Loumas; the next morning, came to Aix,
having passed that extremely rapid and dangerous river
of Durance. In this tract, all the heaths, or commons, are

1644] John Evelyn SI

overed with rosemary, lavender, lentiscus, and the like
weet shrubs, for many miles together; which to me was
very pleasant. Aix is the chief city of Provence, being a
Parliament and Presidential town, with other royal Courts
and Metropolitan jurisdiction. It is well built, the houses
very high, and the streets ample. The Cathedral, St.
Saviour’s, is a noble pile adorned with innumerable figures ;
especially that of St. Michael; the Baptisterie, the Palace,
the Court, built in a most spacious piazza, are very fair.
The Duke of Guise’s house is worth seeing, being fur-
nished with many antiquities in and about it. The Jesuits
have here a royal College, and the City is a University.
7th October. We had a most delicious journey to
Marseilles, through a country sweetly declining to the
south and Mediterranean coasts, full of vineyards and
olive-yards, orange trees, myrtles, pomegranates, and the
like sweet plantations, to which belong pleasantly situated
villas to the number of above 1500, built all of freestone,
and in prospect showing as if they were so many heaps of
snow dropped out of the clouds amongst those perennial
greens. It was almost at the shutting of the gates that
we arrived. Marseilles is on the sea-coast, on a pleasant
rising ground, well-walled, with an excellent port for ships
and galleys, secured by a huge chain of iron drawn across
the harbour at pleasure; and there is a well-fortified tower
with three other forts, especially that built on a rock; but
the castle commanding the city is that of Notre Dame de la
Garde. In the chapel hung up divers crocodiles’ skins.
We went then to visit the galleys, being about twenty-
five in number; the Capitaine of the Galley Royal gave us
most courteous entertainment in his cabin, the slaves in
the interim playing both loud and soft music very rarely.
Then he showed us how he commanded their motions with
a nod, and his whistle making them row out. The spectacle
was to me new and strange, to see so many hundreds of
miserably naked persons, their heads being shaven close,
and having only high red bonnets, a pair of coarse canvas
drawers, their whole backs and legs naked, doubly chained
about their middle and legs, in couples, and made fast to
their seats, and all commanded in a trice by an imperious
and cruel seaman. One Turk amongst the rest he much
favoured, who waited on him in his cabin, but with no
other dress than the rest, and a chain locked about his

82 Diary of (Marseilles

leg, but not coupled. This galley was richly carved and
gilded, and most of the rest were very beautiful. After
bestowing something on the slaves, the capitaine sent a
band of them to give us music at dinner where we lodged.
I was amazed to contemplate how these miserable caitiffs
lie in their galley crowded together; yet there was hardly
one but had some occupation, by which, as leisure and
calms permitted, they got some little money, insomuch as
some of them have, after many years of cruel servitude,
been able to purchase their liberty. The rising-forward
and falling-back at their oar, is a miserable spectacle, and
the noise of their chains, with the roaring of the beaten
waters, has something of strange and fearful in it to one
unaccustomed to it. They are ruled and chastised by
strokes on their backs and soles of their feet, on the least
disorder, and without the least humanity, yet are they
cheerful and full of knavery.

After dinner, we saw the church of St. Victoire, where is
that saint’s head in a shrine of silver, which weighs 600
pounds. Thence to Notre Dame, exceedingly well-built, |
which is the cathedral. Thence to the Duke of Guise’s
Palace, the Palace of Justice, and the Maison du Roi; but
nothing is more strange than the great number of slaves |
working in the streets, and carrying burthens, with their
confused noises, and jingling of their huge chains. The
chief trade of the town is in silks and drugs out of Africa,
Syria, and Egypt, and Barbary horses, which are brought
hither in great numbers. The town is governed by four
captains, has three consuls, and one assessor, three judges
royal; the merchants have a judge for ordinary causes.
Here we bought umbrellas against the heats, and con-
sulted of our journey to Cannes by land, for fear of the
Picaroon Turks, who make prize of many small vessels
about these parts; we not finding a galley bound for Genoa,
whither we were designed.

goth October. We took mules, passing the first night
very late in sight of St. Baume, and the solitary grot:
where they affirm Mary Magdalen did her penance. The
next day, we lay at Perigueux, a city built on an old
foundation; witness the ruins of a most stately amphi-
theatre, which I went out to design, being about a flight-
shot from the town; they call it now the Rolsies. There
is also a strong tower near the town, called the Visone,

1644) John Evelyn 83

but the town and city are at some distance from each other.
It is a bishopric; has a cathedral with divers noblemen’s
houses in sight of the sea. The place was formerly called
Forum Julij, well known by antiquaries.

1oth. We proceeded by the ruins of a stately aqueduct.
The soil about the country is rocky, full of pines and rare
simples.

11th. We lay at Cannes, which is a small port on the
Mediterranean; here we agreed with a seaman to carry us
to Genoa, and, having procured a bill of health (without
which there is no admission at any town in Italy), we em-
barked on the 12th. We touched at the islands of St.
Margaret and St. Honore, lately re-taken from the
Spaniards with great bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here,
having paid some small duty, we bought some trifles
offered us by the soldiers, but without going on shore.
Hence, we coasted within two leagues of Antibes, which is
the utmost town in France. Thence by Nice, a city in
Savoy, built all of brick, which gives it a very pleasant
appearance towards the sea, having a very high castle
which commands it. We sailed by Morgus, now called
Monaco, having passed Villa Franca, heretofore Portus
Herculis, when, arriving after the gates were shut, we
were forced to abide all night in the barge, which was
put into the haven, the wind coming contrary. In the
morning, we were ‘hastened away, having no time per-
mitted us by our avaricious master to go up and see this
strong and considerable place, which now belongs to a
prince of the family of Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has put
both it and himself under the protection of the French.
The situation is on a promontory of solid stone and rock.
The town-walls very fair. We were told that within it
was an ample court, and a palace, furnished with the most
rich and princely moveables, and a collection of statues,
pictures, and massy plate to an immense amount.

We sailed by Menton and Ventimiglia, being the first
city of the republic of Genoa; supped at Oneglia, where
we anchored and lay on shore. The next morning, we
coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica, and St. Remo, where
the shore is furnished with evergreens, oranges, citrons,
and date-trees; we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morn-
ing by Diano, Araisso, famous for the best coral fishing,
growing in abundance on the rocks, deep and continually

84 Diary of (Savona

covered by the sea. By Albenga and Finale, a very fair and
strong town belonging to the King of Spain, for which
reason a monsieur in our vessel was extremely afraid, as
was the patron of our bark, for they frequently catch French
prizes, as they creep by these shores to go into Italy; he
therefore plied both sails and oars, to get under the protec-
tion of a Genoese galley that passed not far before us, and
in whose company we sailed as far as the Cape of Savona,
a town built at the rise of the Apennines: for all this coast
(except a little of St. Remo) is a high and steep mountain-
ous ground, consisting all of rock-marble, without any
grass, tree, or rivage, formidable to look on. A strange
object it is, to consider how some poor cottages stand fast
on the declivities of these precipices, and by what steps the
inhabitants ascend to them. The rock consists of all sorts
of the most precious marbles.

Here, on the 15th, forsaking our galley, we encountered
a little foul weather, which made us creep terra, terra, as
they call it, and so a vessel that encountered us advised us
to do; but our patron, striving to double the point of
Savona, making out into the wind put us into great hazard ;
for blowing very hard from land betwixt those horrid gaps
of the mountains, it set so violently, as raised on the
sudden so great a sea, that we could not recover the
weather-shore for many hours, insomuch that, what with
the water already entered, and the confusion of fearful
passengers (of which one who was an Irish bishop, and his
brother, a priest, were confessing some as at the article
of death), we were almost abandoned to despair, our pilot
himself giving us up for lost. And now, as we were weary
with pumping and laving out the water, almost sinking, it
pleased God on the sudden to appease the wind, and with
much ado and great peril we recovered the shore, which we
now kept in view within half a league in sight of those
pleasant villas, and within scent of those fragrant orchards
which are on this coast, full of princely retirements for the
sumptuousness of their buildings, and nobleness of the ©
plantations, especially those at St. Pietro d’Arena; from
whence, the wind blowing as it did, might perfectly be
smelt the peculiar joys of Italy in the perfumes of orange,
citron, and jasmine flowers, for divers leagues seaward.1

i: Evelyn seems to have been much enchanted by the fragrancy of the
air of this coast, for he has noticed it again in his dedication of the
Fumifugium to Charles the Second.

1644] John Evelyn 85

16th October. We got to anchor under the Pharos, or
watch-tower, built on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole
of Genoa, the weather being still so foul that for two hours
at least we durst not stand into the haven. Towards even-
ing we adventured, and came on shore by the Prattique
house, where, after strict examination by the Syndics, we
were had to the Ducal Palace, and there our names being
taken, we were conducted to our inn, kept by one
Zacharias, an Englishman. I shall never forget a story of
our host Zachary, who, on the relation of our peril, told
us another of his own, being shipwrecked, as he affirmed
solemnly, in the middle of a great sea somewhere in the
West Indies, that he swam no less than twenty-two leagues
to another island, with a tinder-box wrapped up in his hair,
which was not so much as wet all the way; that picking up
the carpenter’s tools with other provisions in a chest, he
and the carpenter, who accompanied him (good swimmers
it seems both), floated the chest before them; and, arriving
at last in a place full of wood, they built another vessel,
and so escaped! After this story, we no more talked of
our danger; Zachary put us quite down.

17th October. Accompanied by a most courteous mar-
chand, called Tomson, we went to view the rarities. The
city is built in the hollow or bosom of a mountain, whose
ascent is very steep, high, and rocky, so that, from the
Lantern and Mole to the hill, it represents the shape of a
theatre; the streets and buildings so ranged one above
another, as our seats are in the play-houses; but, from
their materials, beauty, and structure, never was an arti-
ficial scene more beautiful to the eye, nor is any place, for
the size of it, so full of well-designed and stately palaces,
as may be easily concluded by that rare book in a large
folio which the great virtuoso and painter, Paul Rubens,
has published, though it contains [the description of] only
one street and two or three churches.

The first palace we went to visit was that of Hieronymo
del Negros, to which we passed by boat across the harbour.
Here I could not but observe the sudden and devilish pas-
sion of a seaman, who plying us was intercepted by another
fellow, that interposed his boat before him and took us
in; for the tears gushing out of his eyes, he put his finger
in his mouth and almost bit it off by the joint, showing it
to his antagonist as an assurance to him of some bloody
revenge, if ever he came near that part of the harbour

86 Diary of (Genoa

again. Indeed this beautiful city is more stained with such
horrid acts of revenge and murders, than any one place in
Europe, or haply in the world, where there is a political
government, which makes it unsafe to strangers. It is
made a galley matter to carry a knife whose point‘is not
broken off.

This palace of Negros is richly furnished with the rarest
pictures; on the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove
of stately trees, amongst which are sheep, shepherds, and
wild beasts, cut very artificially in a grey stone; fountains,
rocks, and fish-ponds; casting your eyes one way, you
would imagine yourself in a wilderness and silent country ;
sideways, in the heart of a great city; and backwards, in
the midst of the sea. All this is within one acre of ground.
In the house, I noticed those red-plaster floors which are
made so hard, and kept so polished, that for some time
one would take them for whole pieces of porphyry. I have
frequently wondered that we never practised this [art] in
England for cabinets and rooms of state,! for it appears to
me beyond any invention of that kind; but by their care-
fully covering them with canvass and fine mattresses,
where there is much passage, I suppose they are not last-
ing in their glory, and haply they are often repaired.

There are numerous other palaces of particular curi-
osities, for the marchands being very rich, have, like our
neighbours, the Hollanders, little or no extent of ground to
employ their estates in; as those in pictures and hangings,
so these lay it out on marble houses and rich furniture.
One of the greatest here for circuit is that of the Prince
Doria, which reaches from the sea to the summit of the
mountains. The house is most magnificently built with-
out, nor less gloriously furnished within, having whole
tables 2 and bedsteads of massy silver, many of them set
with agates, onyxes, cornelians, lazulis, pearls, torquoises,
and other precious stones. The pictures and statues are
innumerable. To this palace belong three gardens, the first
whereof is beautified with a terrace, supported by pillars
of marble: there is a fountain of eagles, and one of
Neptune, with other sea-gods, all of the purest white

1 There are such at Hardwick Hall, in Derbyshire, a seat of the
Duke of Devonshire’s.
2 One of which, Lassells says, weighed 24,000 lbs. Voyage through
Italy, 1670, p. 94.

1644] John Evelyn 87

marble; they stand in a most ample basin of the same
stone. At the side of this garden is such an aviary as
Sir Francis Bacon describes in his Sermones fidelium,
or Essays, wherein grow trees of more than two feet
diameter, besides cypress, myrtles, lentiscuses, and other
rare shrubs, which serve to nestle and perch all sorts of
birds, who have air and place enough under their airy
canopy, supported with huge iron work, stupendous for its
fabric and the charge. The other two gardens are full of
orange-trees, citrons, and pomegranates, fountains, grots,
and statues. One of the latter is a colossal Jupiter, under
which is the sepulchre of a beloved dog, for the care of
which one of this family received of the King of Spain 500
crowns a-year, during the life of that faithful animal. The
reservoir of water here is a most admirable piece of art;
and so is the grotto over against it.

We went hence to the Palace of the Dukes, where is
also the Court of Justice; then to the Marchant’s Walk,
rarely covered. Near? the Ducal Palace we saw the public
armoury, which was almost all new, most neatly kept and
ordered, sufficient for 30,000 men. We were showed many
rare inventions and engines of war peculiar to that
armoury, as in the state when guns were first put in use.
The garrison of the town chiefly consists of Germans and
Corsicans. The famous Strada Nova, built wholly of
polished marble, was designed by Rubens, and for stateli-
ness of the buildings, paving, and evenness of the street,
is far superior to any in Europe, for the number of houses;
that of Don Carlo Doria is a most magnificent structure.
In the gardens of the old Marquess Spinola, I saw huge
citrons hanging on the trees, applied like our apricots to
the walls. The churches are no less splendid than the
palaces; that of St. Francis is wholly built of Parian
marble; St. Laurence, in the middle of the city, of white
and black polished stone, the inside wholly incrusted with
marble and other precious materials; on the altar of St.
John stand four sumptuous columns of porphyry; and here
we were showed an emerald, supposed to be one of the
largest in the world.2 The church of St. Ambrosio, belong-

1 Lassells says, in the Palace.

4 Lassells calls it a great dish, in which they say here that our
Saviour ate the Paschal Lamb with his Disciples; but he candidly
adds that he finds no authority for it in any ancient writer, and to it

88 Diary of [Genoa

ing to the Jesuits, will, when finished, exceed all the rest;
and that of the Annunciada, founded at the charges of one
family,! in the present and future design can never be out-
done for cost and art. From the churches we walked to
the Mole, a work of solid huge stone, stretching itself near
600 paces into the main sea, and secures the harbour, here-
tofore of no safety. Of all the wonders of Italy, for the art
and nature of the design, nothing parallels this. We
passed over to the Pharos, or Lantern, a tower of very
great height. Here we took horses, and made the circuit
of the city as far as the new walls, built of a prodigious
height, and with Herculean industry; witness those vast
pieces of whole mountains which they have hewn away,
and blown up with gunpowder, to render them steep and
inaccessible. They are not much less than twenty English
miles in extent,? reaching beyond the utmost buildings of
the city. From one of these promontories we could easily
discern the island of Corsica; and from the same, eastward,
we saw a vale having a great torrent running through a
most desolate barren country; and then turning our eyes
more northward, saw those delicious villas of St. Pietro
d’Arena, which present another Genoa to you, the ravish-
ing retirements of the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much
pain, we descended towards the Arsenal, where the galleys
lie in excellent order.

The inhabitants of the city are much affected to the
Spanish mode and stately garb.3 From the narrowness of
the streets, they use sedans and litters, and not coaches.

19th October. We embarked in a felucca for Livorno,

must be opposed the statement of the Venerable Bede, that the dish
used was of silver. Of an authentic relic of St. John he observes that
Baronius writes credibly.

1 Two brothers, named Lomellini, allow the third part of their
gains.—Lassells.

2 Lassells says (p. 83), finished in eighteen months, and yet six miles
in compass.

3 Thus described by Lassells (p. 96): ‘‘ Broad hats without hatbands,
broad leather girdles with steel buckles, narrow breeches, with long
waisted doublets and hanging sleeves. The great ladies go in guard
infantas (child-preservers) ; that is, in horrible overgrown vertigals of
whalebone, which being put about the waist of the lady, and full as
broad on both sides as she can reach with her hands, bear out her
coats in such a manner that she appears to be as broad as long. The
men look like tumblers that leap through hoops, and the women like
those that anciently danced the hobby-horse in country mummings.”’

1644) John Evelyn 89

or Leghorn; but the sea running very high, we put in at
Porto Venere, which we made with peril, between two
narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed with
great velocity; but we were soon delivered into as great a
calm and a most ample harbour, being in the Golfo di
Spetia. From hence, we could see Pliny’s Delphini Pro-
montorium, now called Capo fino. Here stood that famous
city of Luna, whence the port was named Lunaris, being
about two leagues over, more resembling a lake than a
haven, but defended by castles and excessive high moun-
tains. We landed at Lerici, where, being Sunday, was a
great procession, carrying the Sacrament about the streets
in solemn devotion. After dinner, we took post-horses,
passing through whole groves of olive-trees, the way some-
what rugged and hilly at first, but afterwards pleasant.
Thus we passed through the towns of Sarzana and Massa,
and the vast marble quarries of Carrara, and lodged in an
obscure inn, at a place called Viregio. The next morning,
we arrived at Pisa, where I met my old friend, Mr. Thomas
Henshaw, who was then newly come out of Spain, and
from whose company I never parted till more than a year
after.

The city of Pisa is as much worth seeing as any in Italy;
it has contended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia, Sicily,
and even Carthage. The palace and church of St. Stefano
(where the order of knighthood called by that name was
instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside thereof being
altogether of polished marble; within, it is full of tables
relating to this Order; over which hang divers banners
and pendants, with other trophies taken by them from the
Turks, against whom they are particularly obliged to fight ;
though a religious order, they are permitted to marry. At
the front of the palace stands a fountain, and the statue of
the great Duke Cosmo. The Campanile, or Settezonio,
built by John Venipont, a German, consists of several
rders of pillars, thirty in a row, designed to be much
higher. It stands alone on the right side of the cathedral,
strangely remarkable for this, that the beholder would
expect it to fall, being built exceedingly declining, by a
rare address of the architect ; and how it is supported from
falling I think would puzzle a good geometrician. The
uomo, or Cathedral, standing near it, is a superb struc-
ure, beautified with six columns of great antiquity; the

go Diary of (Pisa

gates are of brass, of admirable workmanship. The
cemetery called Campo Santo is made of divers galley
ladings of earth formerly brought from Jerusalem, said to
be of such a nature, as to consume dead bodies in forty
hours. ’Tis cloistered with marble arches; and here lies
buried the learned Philip Decius, who taught in this Uni-
versity. At one side of this church, stands an ample and
well-wrought marble vessel, which heretofore contained |
the tribute paid yearly by the city to Cesar. It is placed,
as I remember, on a pillar of opal stone, with divers other
antique urns. Near this, and in the same field, is the
Baptistery of’ San Giovanni, built of pure white marble,
and covered with so artificial a cupola, that the voice —
uttered under it seems to break out of a cloud. The font —
and pulpit, supported by four lions, is of inestimable value —
for the preciousness of the materials. The place where
these buildings stand they call the Area. Hence, we went
to the College, to which joins a gallery so furnished with
natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells, dried animals, —
skeletons, &c., as is hardly to be seen in Italy. To this —
the Physic Garden lies, where is a noble palm-tree, and very
fine water-works. The river Arno runs through the middle
of this stately city, whence the main street is named Lung |
"Arno. It is so ample that the Duke’s galleys, built in the
arsenal here, are easily conveyed to Livorno; over the river
is an arch, the like of which, for its flatness, and serving
for a bridge, is nowhere in Europe. The Duke has a stately
Palace, before which is placed the statue of Ferdinand the
Third; over against it is the Exchange, built of marble.
Since this city came to be under the Dukes of Tuscany, it
has been much depopulated, though there is hardly in Italy
any which exceeds it for stately edifices. The situation of
it is low and flat; but the inhabitants have spacious
gardens, and even fields within the walls.

21st October. We took coach to Livorno, through the
Great Duke’s new park full of huge cork-trees, the under-
wood all myrtles, amongst which were many buffaloes
feeding, a kind of wild ox, short nose with horns reversed ;
those who work with them command them, as our bear-
wards do the bears, with a ring through the nose, and a
cord. Much of this park, as well as a great part of the
country about it, is very fenny, and the air very bad.

Leghorn is the prime port belonging to all the Duke’s

1644] John Evelyn gl

territories ; heretofore a very obscure town, but since Duke
Ferdinand has strongly fortified it (after the modern way),
drained the marshes by cutting a channel thence to Pisa
navigable sixteen miles, and has raised a Mole, emulating
that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it is become a place
of great receipt; it has also a place for the galleys, where
they lie safe. Before the sea is an ample piazza for the
market, where are the statues in copper of the four slaves,
much exceeding the life for proportion, and, in the judg-
ment of most artists, one of the best pieces of modern
work.! Here, especially in this piazza, is such a concourse
of slaves, Turks, Moors, and other nations, that the number
and confusion is prodigious; some buying, others selling,
others drinking, others playing, some working, others
sleeping, fighting, singing, weeping, all nearly naked, and
miserably chained. Here was a tent, where any idle fellow
might stake his liberty against a few crowns, at dice, or
other hazard; and, if he lost, he was immediately chained
and led away to the galleys, where he was to serve a term
of years, but from whence they seldom returned: many
sottish persons, in a drunken bravado, would try their
fortune in this way.

The houses of this neat town are very uniform, and
excellently painted, a fresco on the outer walls, with repre-
sentations of many of their victories over the Turks. The
houses, though low on account of the earthquakes which
frequently happen here, (as did one during my being in
Italy), are very well built; the piazza is very fair and com-
modious, and, with the church, whose four columns at the
portico are of black marble polished, gave the first hint to
the building both of the church and piazza in Covent
Garden with us, though very imperfectly pursued.

22nd October. From Livorno, I took coach to Empoly,
where we lay, and the next day arrived at Florence, being
recommended to the house of Signor Baritiére, in the
Piazza del Spirito Santo, where we were exceedingly well
treated. Florence is at the foot of the Apennines, the west
part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified
with more than a thousand houses and country palaces of
note, belonging to gentlemen of the town. The river Arno

1 They had attempted to steal a galley, meaning to have rowed
it themselves; but were taken in this great enterprise. Lassells,
P. 233:

[ 220 K

Q2 Diar y of (Florence

runs through the city, in a broad, but very shallow channel,
dividing it, as it were, in the middle, and over it are four
most sumptuous bridges, of stone. On that nearest to our
quarter are the four Seasons, in white marble; on another
are the goldsmiths’ shops; at the head of the former stands
a column of ophite, upon which a statue of Justice, with
her balance and sword, cut out of porphyry, and the more
remarkable for being the first which had been carved out of
that hard material, and brought to perfection, after the
art had been utterly lost; they say this was done by harden-
ing the tools in the juice of certain herbs. This statue was
erected in that corner, because there Cosmo was first
saluted with the news of Sienna being taken.

Near this is the famous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely
piece of architecture, in a rustic manner. The Palace of
Pitti was built by that family, but of late greatly beautified
by Cosmo with huge square stones of the Doric, Ionic, and
the Corinthian orders, with a terrace at each side having
rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that ends in a
cascade seen from the great gate, and so forming a vista
to the gardens. Nothing is more admirable than the vacant
staircase, marbles, statues, urns, pictures, court, grotto, |
and water-works. In the quadrangle is a huge jetto of
water in a volto of four faces, with noble statues at each
square, especially the Diana of porphyry above the grotto.
We were here showed a prodigious great loadstone.

The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves, |
aviaries, vivaries, fountains, especially one of five jettos,
the middle basin being one of the longest stones I ever saw.
Here is everything to make such a Paradise delightful. In
the garden I saw a rose grafted on an orange-tree. There
was much topiary-work, and columns in architecture about
the hedges. The Duke has added an ample laboratory, —
over-against which stands a fort on a hill, where they told
us his treasure is kept. In this Palace the Duke ordinarily
resides, living with his Swiss guards, after the frugal -
Italian way, and even selling what he can spare of his
wines, at the cellar under his very house, wicker bottles
dangling over even the chief entrance into the Palace,
serving for a vintner’s bush.

In the Church of Santo Spirito the altar and reliquary
are most rich, and full of precious stones; there are four
pillars of a kind of serpentine, and some of blue. Hence

1644] John Evelyn 93

we went to another Palace of the Duke’s, called Palazzo
Vecchio, before which is a statue of David, by Michael
Angelo, and one of Hercules, killing Cacus, the work of
Baccio Bandinelli. The quadrangle about this is of the
Corinthian order, and in the hall are many rare marbles,
as those of Leo the Tenth and Clement VII., both Popes
of the Medicean family; also the acts of Cosmo, in rare
painting. In the chapel is kept (as they would make one
believe) the original Gospel of St. John, written with his
own hand; and the famous Florentine Pandects, and divers
precious stones. Near it is another pendent Tower like
that of Pisa, always threatening ruin.

Under the Court of Justice is a stately arcade for men
to walk in, and over that, the shops of divers rare artists
who continually work for the great Duke. Above this is
that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or repository, wherein are
hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of marble and
metal, vases of porphyry, &c.; but amongst the statues
none so famous as the Scipio, the Boar, the Idol of Apollo,
brought from the Delphic Temple, and two triumphant
columns. Over these hang the pictures of the most famous
persons and illustrious men in arts or arms, to the number
of 300, taken out of the museum of Paulus Jovius. They
then led us into a large square room, in the middle of which
stood a cabinet of an octangular form, so adorned and
furnished with crystals, agates, and sculptures, as exceeds
any description. This cabinet is called the Tribuna, and
in it is a pearl as big as an hazel-nut. The cabinet is of
ebony, lazuli, and jasper; over the door is a round of
M. Angelo; on the cabinet, Leo the Tenth, with other
paintings of Raphael, del Sarto, Perugino, and Correggio,
viz., a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy, two Apostles, two heads
of Durer, rarely carved. Over this cabinet is a globe of
ivory, excellently carved; the Labours of Hercules, in
massy silver, and many incomparable pictures in small.
There is another, which had about it eight Oriental
columns of alabaster, on each whereof was placed a head
of a Cesar, covered with a canopy so richly set with
precious stones, that they resembled a firmament of stars.
Within it was our Saviour’s Passion, and the twelve
Apostles in amber. This cabinet was valued at two hun-
dred thousand crowns. In another, with calcedon pillars,
was a series of golden medals. Here is also another rich

94 Diary of [Florence

ebony cabinet cupolaed with a tortoise-shell, and containing
a collection of gold medals esteemed worth 50,000 crowns ;
a wreathed pillar of oriental alabaster, divers paintings of
Da Vinci, Pontorno, del Sarto, an Ecce Homo of Titian, a
Boy of Bronzini, &c. They showed us a branch of corai
fixed on the rock, which they affirm does still grow. In
another room, is kept the Tabernacle appointed for the
chapel of St. Laurence, about which are placed small
statues of Saints, of precious materials; a piece of such art
and cost, that, having been these forty years in perfecting,
it is one of the most curious things in the world. Here
were divers tables of Pietra Commesso, which is a marble
ground inlaid with several sorts of marbles and stones of
various colours, representing flowers, trees, beasts, birds,
and landscapes. In one is represented the town of
Leghorn, by the same hand who inlaid the altar of St.
Laurence, Domenico Benotti, of whom I purchased nine-
teen pieces of the same work for a cabinet. In a press
near this they showed an iron nail, one half whereof being
converted into gold by one Thurnheuser, a German chymist,
is looked on as a great rarity; but it plainly appeared to —
have been soldered together. There is a curious watch, a |
monstrous turquoise as big as an egg, on which is carved
an emperor’s head.

In the armoury are kept many antique habits, as those
of Chinese kings; the sword of Charlemagne; Hannibal’s |
head-piece; a loadstone of a yard long, which bears up
86 Ibs. weight, in a chain of seventeen links, such as the
slaves are tied to. In another room are such rare turneries
in ivory, aS are not to be described for their curiosity.
There is a fair pillar of oriental alabaster; twelve vast and
complete services of silver plate, and one of gold, all of
excellent workmanship; a rich embroidered saddle of pearls
sent by the Emperor to this Duke; and here is that em-
broidered chair set with precious stones in which he sits,
when, on St. John’s day, he receives the tribute of the
cities.

25th October. We went to the Portico where the famous
statue of Judith and Holofernes stands, also the Medusa,
all of copper; but what is most admirable is the Rape of
a Sabine, with another man under foot, the confusion and
turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of one
entire marble, the work of John di Bologna, and is most

1644] John Evelyn 95

stupendous; this stands directly against the great piazza,
where, to adorn one fountain, are erected four marble
statues and eight of brass, representing Neptune and his
family of sea-gods, of a Colossean magnitude, with four
sea-horses, in Parian marble of Lamedrati, in the midst
of a very great basin; a work, I think, hardly to be
paralleled. Here is also the famous statue of David, by
M. Angelo; Hercules and Cacus, by Baccio Bandinelli;
the Perseus, in copper, by Benevento, and the Judith of
Donatelli, which stand publicly before the old Palace with
the Centaur of Bologna, huge Colossean figures. Near
this stand Cosmo di Medicis on horseback, in brass on a
pedestal of marble, and four copper basso-relievos by John
di Bologna, with divers inscriptions; the Ferdinand the
First, on horseback, is of Pietro Tacca. The brazen boar,
which serves for another public fountain, is admirable.

After dinner, we went to the Church of the Annunciata,
where the Duke and his Court were at their devotions,
being a place of extraordinary repute for sanctity: for
here is a shrine that does great miracles, [proved] by
innumerable votive tablets, &c., covering almost the walls
of the whole church. This is the image of Gabriel, who
saluted the Blessed Virgin, and which the artist finished so
well, that he was in despair of performing the Virgin’s
face so well; whereupon it was miraculously done for him
whilst he slept; but others say it was painted by St. Luke
himself. Whoever it was, infinite is the devotion of both
sexes to it. The altar is set off with four columns of
orienta! alabaster, and lighted by thirty great silver lamps.
There are innumerable other pictures by rare masters. Our
Saviour’s Passion in brass tables inserted in marble, is
the work of John di Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli.

To this church joins a convent, whose cloister is painted
in fresco very rarely. There is also near it an hospital
for 1000 persons, with nurse-children, and several other
charitable accommodations.

At the Duke’s Cavalerizza, the Prince has a stable of the
finest horses of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gen-
nets, English, &c., which are continually exercised in the
maneége.

Near this is a place where are kept several wild beasts,
as wolves, cats, bears, tigers, and lions. They are loose
in a deep walled court, and therefore to be seen with more

96 Diary of (Sienna

pleasure than those at the tower of London, in their grates.
One of the lions leaped to a surprising height, to catch a
joint of mutton which I caused to be hung down.

1 There are many plain brick towers erected for defence,
when this was a free state. The highest is called the
Mangio, standing at the foot of the piazza which we went
first to see after our arrival. At the entrance of this tower
is a chapel open towards the piazza, of marble well-adorned
with sculpture.

On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice,
well built a la moderna, of brick; indeed the bricks of
Sienna are so well made, that they look almost as well as
porphyry itself, having a kind of natural polish.

In the Senate-House is a very fair Hall where they
sometimes entertain the people with public shows and
operas, as they call them. Towards the left are the statues
of Romulus and Remus with the wolf, all of brass, placed
on a column of ophite stone, which they report was
brought from the renowned Ephesian Temple. These
ensigns being the arms of the town, are set up in divers
of the streets and public ways both within and far without
the city.

The piazza compasses the facciata of the court and >
chapel, and, being made with descending steps, much —
resembles the figure of an escalop-shell. The white ranges |
of pavement, intermixed with the excellent bricks above |
mentioned, with which the town is generally well paved,
render it very clean. About this market-place (for so it is)
are many fair palaces, though not built with excess of
elegance. There stands an arch, the work of Baltazzar di
Sienna, built with wonderful ingenuity, so that it is not
easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has some im-
perceptible contignations, which do not betray themselves
easily to the eye. On the edge of the piazza is a goodly
fountain beautified with statues, the water issuing out of
the wolves’ mouths, being the work of Jacobo Quercei, a
famous artist. There are divers other public fountains in
the city, of good design.

After this we walked to the Sapienza, which is the Uni-
versity, or rather College, where the high Germans enjoy

1 There seems to be here an omission in the MS. between their
leaving Florence and going to Sienna.

1644] John Evelyn 97

many particular privileges when they addict themselves to
the civil law: and indeed this place has produced many
excellent scholars, besides those three Popes, Alexander,
Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned A®neas
Sylvius; and both were of the ancient house of the
Piccolomini.

The chief street is called Strada Romana, in which Pius
II. has built a most stately Palace of square stone, with an
incomparable portico joining near to it. The town is com-
manded by a castle which hath four bastions and a garrison
of soldiers. Near it is a list to ride horses in, much fre-
quented by the gallants in summer.

Not far from hence is the Church and Convent of the
Dominicans, where in the chapel of St. Catherine of Sienna
they show her head, the rest of her body being translated
to Rome. The Duomo, or Cathedral, both without and
within, is of large square stones of black and white marble
polished, of inexpressible beauty, as is the front adorned
with sculpture and rare statues. In the middle is a stately
cupola and two columns of sundry streaked coloured
marble. About the body of the church, on a cornice within,
are inserted the heads of all the Popes. The pulpit is
beautified with marble figures, a piece of exquisite work;
but what exceeds all description is the pavement, where
(besides the various emblems and other figures in the
nave) the choir is wrought with the history of the Bible,
so artificially expressed in the natural colours of the
marbles, that few pictures exceed it. Here stands a
Christo, rarely cut in marble, and on the large high altar
is a brazen vessel of admirable invention and art. The
organs are exceeding sweet and well tuned. On the left
side of the altar is the library, where are painted the acts
of Afneas Sylvius, and others by Raphael. They showed
us an arm of St. John the Baptist, wherewith, they say,
he baptized our Saviour in Jordan; it was given by the
King of Peloponnesus to one of the Popes, as an inscription
testifies. They have also St. Peter’s sword, with which
he smote off the ear of Malchus.

Just against the cathedral, we went into the Hospital,
where they entertain and refresh for three or four days,
gratis, such pilgrims as go to Rome. In the chapel belong-
ing to it lies the body of St. Susorius, their founder, as
yet uncorrupted, though dead many hundreds of years.

98 Diary of [Sienna

They show one of the nails which pierced our Saviour, and
Saint Chrysostom’s Comment on the Gospel, written by his
own hand. Below the hill stands the pool called Fonte
Brande, where fish are fed for pleasure more than food.

St. Francis’s Church is a large pile, near which, yet a
little without the city, grows a tree which they report in
their legend grew from the Saint’s staff, which, on going
to sleep, he fixed in the ground, and at his waking found
it had grown a large tree. They affirm that the wood of
it in decoction cures sundry diseases.

2nd November. We went from Sienna, desirous of
being present at the cavalcade of the new Pope, Innocent
X.,1 who had not yet made the grand procession to
St. John di Laterano. We set out by Porto Romano, the
country all about the town being rare for hunting and
game. Wild boar and venison are frequently sold in the
shops in many of the towns about it. We passed near
Monte Oliveto, where the monastery of that Order is plea-
santly situated, and worth seeing. Passing over a bridge,
which, by the inscription, appears to have been built by
Prince Matthias, we went through Buon-Convento, famous
for the death of the Emperor, Henry VII., who was here
poisoned with the holy Eucharist. Thence, we came to
Torrinieri, where we dined. This village is in a sweet
valley, in view of Montalcino, famous for the rare Musca-
tello.4 After three miles more, we go by St. Quirico, and
lay at a private osteria near it, where, after we were pro-
vided of lodging, came in Cardinal Donghi, a Genoese by
birth, now come from Rome; he was so civil as to enter-
tain us with great respect, hearing we were English, for
that, he told us he had been once in our country. Amongst
other discourse, he related how a dove had been seen to
sit on the chair in the Conclave at the election of Pope
Innocent, which he magnified as a great good omen, with
other particulars which we inquired of him, till our suppers
parted us. He came in great state with his own bedstead
and all the furniture, yet would by no means suffer us to
resign the room we had taken up in the lodging before his _
arrival. Next morning, we rode by Monte Pientio, or,
as vulgarly called, Monte Mantumiato, which is of an
excessive height, ever and anon peeping above any clouds

1 John Baptista Pamphili, chosen Pope in October, 1644, died in
1655. 2 The wine so called.

1644] John Evelyn 99

with its snowy head, till we had climbed to the inn at
Radicofani, built by Ferdinand, the great Duke, for the
necessary refreshment of travellers in so inhospitable a
place. As we ascended, we entered a very thick, solid, and
dark body of clouds, looking like rocks at a little distance,
which lasted near a mile in going up; they were dry misty
vapours, hanging undissolved for a vast thickness, and
obscuring both the sun and earth, so that we seemed to be
in the sea rather than in the clouds, till, having pierced
through it, we came into a most serene heaven, as if we
had been above all human conversation, the mountain
appearing more like a great island than joined to any other
hills; for we could perceive nothing but a sea of thick
clouds rolling under our feet like huge waves, every now
and then suffering the top of some other mountain to peep
through, which we could discover many miles off: and
between some breaches of the clouds we could see land-
scapes and villages of the subjacent country. This was
one of the most pleasant, new, and altogether surprising
objects that I had ever beheld.

On the summit of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a
very strong fort, garrisoned, and somewhat beneath it is
a small town; the provisions are drawn up with ropes and
engines, the precipice being otherwise inaccessible. At one
end of the town lie heaps of rocks so strangely broken off
from the ragged mountain, as would affright one with
their horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the
inn gushed out a plentiful and most useful fountain which
falls into a great trough of stone, bearing the Duke of
Tuscany’s arms. Here we dined, and I with my black lead
pen took the prospect.! It is one of the utmost confines
of the Etrurian State towards St. Peter’s Patrimony, since
the gift of Matilda to Gregory VII., as is pretended.

Here we pass a stone bridge, built by Pope Gregory
XIV., and thence immediately to Acquapendente,? a town
situated on a very ragged rock, down which precipitates
an entire river (which gives it the denomination), with a
most horrid roaring noise. We lay at the post-house, on
which is this inscription :

L’Insegna della Posta, é posta a posta,

In questa posta, fin che habbia a sua posta
Ogn’ un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta.

1 An etching of it, with others, is in the library at Wotton.
2 Twelve miles from the Duke’s inn, according to Lassells.
I 220 +

100 Diary of [Bolsena

Before it was dark, we went to see the Monastery of the
Franciscans, famous for six learned Popes, and sundry
other great scholars, especially the renowned physician and
anatomist, Fabricius de Acquapendente, who was bred and
born there.

4th November. After a little riding, we descended to-
wards the Lake of Bolsena, which being above twenty
miles in circuit, yields from hence a most incomparable
prospect. Near the middle of it are two small islands, in
one of which is a convent of melancholy Capuchins, where
those of the Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls
it Tarquiniensis Lacus, and talks of divers floating islands
about it, but they did not appear to us. The lake is en-
vironed with mountains, at one of whose sides we passed
towards the town Bolsena, anciently Volsinium, famous in
those times, as is testified by divers rare sculptures in —
the court of St. Christiana’s church, the urn, altar, and
jasper columns.

After seven miles’ riding, passing through a wood here-
tofore sacred to Juno, we came to Montefiascone, the head
of the Falisci, a famous people in old time, and heretofore
Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine, as now for
the story of the Dutch Bishop, who lies buried in St.
Flavian’s church with this epitaph :

Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est.

Because, having ordered his servant to ride before, and
enquire where the best wine was, and there write Est, the
man found some so good that he wrote Est, Est, upon the
vessels, and the Bishop drinking too much of it, died.
From Montefiascone, we travel a plain and pleasant
champain to Viterbo, which presents itself with much state
afar off, in regard of her many lofty pinnacles and towers ;
neither does it deceive our expectation; for it is exceed-
ingly beautified with public fountains, especially that at
the entrance, which is a!l of brass and adorned with many
rare figures, and salutes the passenger with a most agree-
able object and refreshing waters. There are many Popes
buried in this city, and in the palace is this odd inscription :

““ Osiridis victoriam in Gigantas litteris historiographicis in hoe
antiquissimo marmore inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi Lau-
rentij Templo translatam, ad conversanda: vetustiss: patriz monu-
menta atq’ decora hic locandum statuit S.P.Q.V.”’

1644] John Evelyn 101

Under it:

Sum Osiris Rex Ju- Sum Osiris Rex qui Sum Osiris Rex qu
piter universo in ter- ab Itala in Gigantes terrarum pacata Ita-
rarum orbe. exercitus veni, vidi, et liam decem a’nos quo-

vici. rum inventor fui.

Near the town is a sulphureous fountain, which con-
tinually boils. After dinner we took horse by the new way
of Capranica, and so passing near Mount Ciminus and the
Lake, we began to enter the plains of Rome; at which
sight my thoughts were strangely elevated, but soon
allayed by so violent a shower, which fell just as we were
contemplating that proud Mistress of the world, and de-
scending by the Vatican (for at that gate we entered), that
before we got into the city I was wet to the skin.

I came to Rome on the 4th November, 1644, about five
at night; and being perplexed for a convenient lodging,
wandered up and down on horseback, till at last one con-
ducted us to Monsieur Petit’s, a Frenchman, near the
.Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and, having bargained
with my host for twenty crowns a month, I caused a good
fire to be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so
very wet. The next morning (for I was resolved to spend
no time idly here) I got acquainted with several persons
who had long lived at Rome. I was especially recom-
mended to Father John, a Benedictine monk and Superior
of his Order for the English College of Douay, a person of
singular learning, religion, and humanity; also to Mr.
Patrick Cary, an Abbot, brother to our learned Lord Falk-
land, a witty young priest, who afterwards came over to
our church; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs,! physicians who
had dependence on Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an
excellent poet; Father Courtney, the chief of the Jesuits in
the English College; my Lord of Somerset, brother to the
Marquis of Worcester ;2 and some others, from whom |

1 James Alban Gibbs, a Scotchman, bred at Oxford, and resident
many years at Rome, where he died 1677, and was buried in the
Pantheon there, with an epitaph to his memory under a marble bust.
He was an extraordinary character. In Wood’s Athene is a long
account of him, and some curious additional particulars will be
found in Warton’s Life of Dr. Bathurst. He was a writer of Latin
poetry, a small collection of which he published at Rome, with his
portrait prefixed.

2 Thomas, third son of Edward fourth Earl of Worcester, made a
Knight of the Bath by King James, and in 1626 created Viscount
Somerset, of Cashel, in Ireland. He died in 1661.

102 Diary of [Rome

received instructions how to behave in town, with direc-
tions to masters and books to take in search of the an-
tiquities, churches, collections, &c. Accordingly, the next
day, November 6, I began to be very pragmatical.1

In the first place, our sights-man? (for so they name
certain persons here who get their living by leading
strangers about to see the city) went to the Palace Farnese,
a magnificent square structure, built by Michael Angelo,
of the three orders of columns after the ancient manner,
and when architecture was but newly recovered from the
Gothic barbarity. The court is square and terraced, having
two pair of stairs which lead to the upper rooms, and
conducted us to that famous gallery painted by Augustine
Caracci, than which nothing is more rare of that art; so
deep and well-studied are all the figures, that it would
require more judgment than I confess I had, to determine
whether they were flat, or embossed. Thence, we passed
into another, painted in chiaroscuro, representing ihe
fabulous history of Hercules. We went out on a terrace,
where was a pretty garden on the leads, for it is built in
a place that has no extent of ground backwards. The great
hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, furnished with
statues, one of which being modern is the figure of a Far-
nese, in a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy of
admiration. Here we were showed the Museum of Fulvius
Ursinos, replete with innumerable collections; but the
Major-Démo being absent, we could not at this time see
all we wished. Descending into the court, we with aston-
ishment contemplated those two incomparable statues of
Hercules and Flora, so much celebrated by Pliny, and
indeed by all antiquity, as two of the most rare pieces in
the world: there likewise stands a modern statue of Her-
cules and two Gladiators, not to be despised. In a second
court was a temporary shelter of boards over the most
stupendous and never-to-be-sufficiently-admired Torso of
Amphion and Dirce, represented in five figures, exceeding
the life in magnitude, of the purest white marble, the con-

a The sense in which Evelyn uses this word is that of its old
signification, as being very active and full of business,—setting to
work systematically with what he came upon, namely, to view the
antiquities and beauties of Rome.

is The name for these gentlemen since universal with Italians is
cicerone, but they affect universally the title of antiquaries.

1644] John Evelyn 103

tending work of those famous statuaries, Apollonius and
Taurisco, in the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire
stone, and remaining unblemished, to be valued beyond all
the marbles of the world for its antiquity and workman-
ship. There are divers other heads and busts. At the
entrance of this stately palace stand two rare and vast
fountains of garnito stone, brought into this piazza out of
Titus’s Baths. Here, in summer, the gentlemen of Rome
take the fresco in their coaches and on foot. At the sides
of this court, we visited the Palace of Signor Pichini, who
has a good collection of antiquities, especially the Adonis
of Parian marble, which my Lord Arundel would once have
purchased, if a great price would have been taken for it.

We went into the Campo Vaccino, by the ruins of the
Temple of Peace, built by Titus Vespasianus, and thought
to be the largest as well as the most richly furnished of all
the Roman dedicated places: it is now a heap rather than
a temple, yet the roof and volto continue firm, showing it
to have been formerly of incomparable workmanship. This
goodly structure was, none knows how, consumed by fire
the very night, by all computation, that our blessed Saviour
was born.

From hence, we passed by the place into which Curtius
precipitated himself for the love of his country, now with-
out any sign of a lake, or vorago. Near this: stand some
columns of white marble, of exquisite work, supposed to be
part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, built by Augustus;
the work of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave
is excellent, full of sacrificing utensils. There are three
other of Jupiter Stator. Opposite to these are the oratories,
or churches, of St. Cosmo and Damiano, heretofore the
Temples of Romulus; a pretty old fabric, with a tribunal,
or tholus within, wrought all of Mosaic. The gates before
it are brass, and the whole much obliged to Pope Urban
VIII. In this sacred place lie the bodies of those two
martyrs; and in a chapel on the right hand is a rare paint-
ing of Cavaliere Baglioni.

We next entered St. Lorenzo in Miranda. The portico
is supported by a range of most stately columns; the in-
scription cut in the architrave shows it to have been the
Temple of Faustina. It is now made a fair church, and has
an hospital which joins it. On the same side is St.
Adriano, heretofore dedicated to Saturn. Before this was

104 Diar y of [Rome

once placed a military column, supposed to be set in the
centre of the city, from whence they used to compute the
distance of all the cities and places of note under the do-
minion of those universal monarchs. To this church are
likewise brazen gates and a noble front; just opposite we
saw the heaps and ruins of Cicero’s Palace. Hence we
went towards Mons Capitolinus, at the foot of which stands
the arch of Septimus Severus, full and entire, save where
the pedestal and some of the lower members are choked up
with ruins and earth. This arch is exceedingly enriched
with sculpture and trophies, with a large inscription. In
the terrestrial and naval! battles here graven, is seen the
Roman Aries [the battering-ram] ; and this was the first
triumphal arch set up in Rome. The Capitol, to which we
climbed by very broad steps, is built about a square
court, at the right hand of which, going up from Campo
Vaccino, gushes a plentiful stream from the statue of
Tyber, in porphyry, very antique, and another representing
Rome; but, above all, is the admirable figure of Marforius,
casting water into a most ample concha. The front of this
court is crowned with an excellent fabric containing the
Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal Notary sits, and
others. In one of the halls they show the statues of
Gregory XIII. and Paul III., with several others. To this
joins a handsome tower, the whole faccidta adorned with
noble statues, both on the outside and on the battlements,
ascended by a double pair of stairs, and a stately Posario.

In the centre of the court stands that incomparable horse
bearing the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the life, of
Corinthian metal, placed on a pedestal of marble, esteemed
one of the noblest pieces of work now extant, antique and
very rare. There is also a vast head of a colossean magni-
tude, of white marble, fixed in the wall. At the descending
stairs are set two horses of white marble governed by two
naked slaves, taken to be Castor and Pollux, brought from
Pompey’s Theatre. On the balustrade, the trophies of
Marius against the Cimbrians, very ancient and instruc-
tive. At the foot of the steps towards the left hand is that
Colonna Miliaria, with the globe of brass on it, mentioned
to have been formerly set up in Campo Vaccino. On the
same hand, is the Palace of the Segniori Conservatori, or
three Consuls, now the civil governors of the city, contain-
ing the fraternities, or halls and guilds, (as we call them)

1644] John Evelyn 105

of sundry companies, and other offices of state. Under the
portico within, are the statues of Augustus Cesar, a
Bacchus, and the so renowned Colonna Rostrata of Duil-
lius, with the excellent bassi relievi. In a smaller court,
the statue of Constantine, on a fountain, a Minerva’s head
of brass, and that of Commodus, to which belongs a hand,
the thumb whereof is at least an ell long, and yet propor-
tionable; but the rest of the Colosse is lost. In the corner
of this court stand a horse and lion fighting, as big as life,
in white marble, exceedingly valued; likewise the Rape of
the Sabines; two cumbent figures of Alexander and Mam-
mea; two monstrous feet of a colosse of Apollo; the
Sepulchre of Agrippina; and the standard, or antique
measure, of the Roman foot. Ascending by the steps of
the other corner, are inserted four basso-relievos, viz. the
triumph and sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which last, for
the antiquity and rareness of the work, I caused my painter,
Carlo Neapolitano, to copy. There are also two statues
of the Muses, and one of Adrian, the Emperor: above
stands the figure of Marius, and by the wall Marsyas
bound to a tree; all of them excellent and antique. Above
in the lobby, are inserted into the walls those ancient laws,
on brass, called the Twelve Tables; a fair Madonna of
Pietro Perugino, painted on the wall; near which are the
archives, full of ancient records.

In the great hall are divers excellent paintings of Cava-
liero Giuseppe d’Arpino, a statue in brass of Sextus V. and
of Leo X., of marble. In another hall, are many modern
statues of their late Consuls and Governors, set about
with fine antique heads; others are painted by excellent
masters, representing the actions of M. Scevola, Horatius
Cocles, &c.—The room where the Conservatori now feast
upon solemn days, is tapestried with crimson damask, em-
broidered with gold, having a state or balduquino of crim-
son velvet, very rich; the frieze above rarely painted. Here
are in brass, Romulus and Remus sucking the wolf, of
brass, with the Shepherd, Faustulus, by them; also the
boy plucking the thorn out of his foot, of brass, so much
admired by artists. There are also holy statues and heads
of Saints. Ina gallery near adjoining are the names of the
ancient Consuls, Preetors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated
by the learned : also the figure of an old woman; two others
representing Poverty; and more in fragments. In another

106 Diary of [Rome

large room, furnished with velvet, are the statue of Adonis,
very rare, and divers antique heads. In the next chamber,
is an old statue of Cicero, one of another Consul, a Her-
cules in brass, two women’s heads of incomparable work,
six other statues ; and, over the chimney, a very rare basso-
relievo, and other figures. In a little lobby before the
chapel, is the statue of Hannibal, a Bacchus very antique,
bustos of Pan and Mercury, with other old heads.—All
these noble statues, &c., belong to the city, and cannot be
disposed of to any private person, or removed hence, but
are preserved for the honour of the place, though great
sums have been offered for them by divers Princes, lovers
of art and antiquity. We now left the Capitol, certainly
one of the most renowned places in the world, even as now
built by the design of the famous M. Angelo.

Returning home by Ara Cceli, we mounted to it by more
than 100 marble steps, not in devotion, as I observed some
to do on their bare knees, but to see those two famous
statues of Constantine, in white marble, placed there out
of his baths. In this church is a Madonna, reported to be
painted by St. Luke, and a column, on which we saw the
print of a foot, which they affirm to have been that of the
Angel, seen on the Castle of St. Angelo. Here the feast
of our Blessed Saviour’s nativity being yearly celebrated
with divers pageants, they began to make the preparation.
Having viewed the Palace and fountain, at the other side
of the stairs, we returned weary to our lodgings.

On the 7th November, we went again near the Capitol,
towards the Tarpeian rock, where it has a goodly prospect
of the Tyber. Thence, descending by the Tullianum, where
they told us St. Peter was imprisoned, they showed us a
chapel (S. Pietro de Vincoli) in which a rocky side of it
bears the impression of his face. In the nave of the church
gushes a fountain, which they say was caused by the
Apostle’s prayers, when having converted some of his fel-
low-captives he wanted water to make them Christians.
The painting of the Ascension is by Rapha I. We then
walked about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine, and
thence to the Circus Maximus, capable of holding 40,000 ©
spectators, now a heap of ruins, converted into gardens.
Then by the Forum Boarium, where they have a tradition
that Hercules slew Cacus, some ruins of his temple remain-
ing. The Temple of Janus Quadrifrons, having four

1644) John Evelyn 107

arches, importing the four Seasons, and on each side
niches for the months, is still a substantial and pretty entire
antiquity. Near to this is the Arcus Argentariorum. Bend-
ing now towards the Tyber, we went into the Theatre
of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000 persons, built by
Augustus, and dedicated to his nephew; the architecture,
from what remains, appears to be inferior to none. It is
now wholly converted into the house of the Savelli, one
of the old Roman families. The people were now generally
busy in erecting temporary triumphs and arches with
statues and flattering inscriptions against his Holiness’s
grand procession to St. John di Laterani, amongst which
the Jews also began one in testimony of gratitude for their
protection under the Papal State. The Palazzo Barberini,
designed by the present Pope’s architect, Cavaliero Ber-
nini, seems from the size to be as princely an object, as:
any modern building in Europe. It has a double portico,
at the end of which we ascended by two pair of oval stairs,
all of stone, and void in the well. One of these led us into
a stately hall, the volto whereof was newly painted a fresco,
by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini il Cortone. To this is
annexed a gallery completely furnished with whatever art
can call rare and singular, and a library full of worthy col-
lections, medals, marbles, and manuscripts ; but, above all,
an Egyptian Osyris, remarkable for its unknown material
and antiquity. In one of the rooms near this hangs the
Sposaliccio of St. Sebastian, the original of Annibal
Caracci, of which I procured a copy, little inferior to the
prototype; a table, in my judgment, superior to anything
I had seen in Rome. In the court is a vast broken guglia,
or obelisk, having divers hieroglyphics cut on it.

8th November. We visited the Jesuits’ Church, the
front whereof is esteemed a noble piece of architecture,
the design of Jacomo della Porta and the famous Vignola.
In this church lies the body of their renowned Ignatius
Loyola, an arm of Xaverius, their other Apostle; and, at
the right end of their high altar, their champion, Cardinal
Bellarmine. Here Father Kircher! (professor of Mathe-

1 Athanasius Kircher was born at Fulda, in Germany, early in the
seventeenth century. He received his education at Wurtzburg, and in
1635 entered the College of Jesuits, at Avignon. He became a good
scholar in Oriental literature, and an admirable mathematician; but
he directed his attention particularly to the study of hieroglyphics.

108 Diary of [Rome

matics and the oriental tongues) showed us many singular
courtesies, leading us into their refectory, dispensatory,
laboratory, gardens, and finally (through a hall hung round
with pictures of such of their order as had been executed
for their pragmatical and busy adventures) into his own
study, where, with Dutch patience, he showed us his per-
petual motions, catoptrics, magnetical experiments, models,
and a thousand other crotchets and devices, most of them
since published by himself, or his industrious scholar,
Schotti.1

Returning home, we had time to view the Palazzo de
Medicis, which was an house of the Duke of Florence near
our lodging, upon the brow of Mons Pincius, having a fine
prospect towards the Campo Marzo. It is a magnificent,
strong building, with a substruction very remarkable, and
a portico supported with columns towards the gardens,
with two huge lions, of marble, at the end of the balus-
trade. The whole outside of the facciata is incrusted with
antique and rare basso-relievos and statues. Descending
into the garden is a noble fountain governed by a Mercury
of brass. At a little distance, on the left, is a lodge full
of fine statues, amongst which the Sabines, antique and
singularly rare. In the arcade near this stand twenty-four
statues of great price, and hard by is a mount planted with
cypresses, representing a fortress, with a goodly fountain
in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with white
marble, covered over with the natural shrubs, ivy, and
other perennial greens, divers statues and heads being
placed as in niches. At a little distance are those famed
statues of Niobe and her family, in all fifteen, as large as
the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny, esteemed
among the best pieces of work in the world for the passions
they express, and all other perfections of that stupendous
Father Kircher’s works on various abstruse subjects amount to twenty
folio volumes, for which he acquired great renown in his day. On
Evelyn’s visit to Rome, he was considered one of the greatest mathe-
maticians and Hebrew scholars of which the metropolis of Christi-
anity—then the head-quarters of learning—could boast. He died in
1680. He is mentioned in other passages of the Diary.

1 Caspar Schott, a native of Wurtzburg, where he was born in
1608, who had the advantage of being the favourite pupil of Father
Kircher. He taught philosophy and mathematics at Rome and
Palermo, and published several curious and erudite works in philo-

sophy and natural history; but they have long since ceased to possess
any authority. He died in 1666.

1644] John Evelyn 109

art. There is likewise in this garden a fair obelisk, full of
hieroglyphics. In going out, the fountain before the front
casts water nearly fifty feet in height, when it is received
in a most ample marble basin. Here they usually rode the
great horse every morning; which gave me much diversion
from the terrace of my own chamber, where I could see
all their motions. This evening, I was invited to hear rare
music at the Chiésa Nova; the black marble pillars within
led us to that most precious oratory of Philippus Nerius,
their founder; they being of the oratory of secular priests,
under no vow. There are in it divers good pictures, as the
Assumption of Girolamo Mutiano; the Crucifix; the Visita-
tion of Elizabeth; the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin ;
Christo Sepolto, of Guido Rheno, Caravaggio, Arpino, and
others. This fair church consists of fourteen altars, and
as many chapels. In it is buried (besides their Saint) Cesar
Baronius, the great annalist. Through this, we went into
the sacristia, where, the tapers being lighted, one of the
Order preached; after him stepped up a child of eight or
nine years old, who pronounced an oration with so much
grace, that I never was better pleased than to hear Italian
so well and so intelligently spoken. This course it seems
they frequently use, to bring their scholars to a habit of
speaking distinctly, and forming their action and assur-
ance, which none so much want as ours in England. This
being finished, began their motettos, which in a lofty cupola
richly painted, were sung by eunuchs, and other rare voices,
accompanied by theorboes, harpsichords, and viols, so that
we were even ravished with the entertainment of the even-
ing. This room is painted by Cortona, and has in it two
figures in the niches, and the church stands in one of the
most stately streets of Rome.

10th November. We went to see Prince Ludovisio’s
villa, where was formerly the Viridarium of the poet, Sal-
lust. The house is very magnificent, and the extent of the
ground exceedingly large, considering that it is in a city;
in every quarter of the garden are antique statues, and
walks planted with cypress. To this garden belongs a
house of retirement, built in the figure of a cross, after a
particular ordonnance, especially the staircase, The white-
ness and smoothness of the excellent pargeting was a thing
1 much observed, being almost as even and polished, as if
it had been of marble. Above, is a fair prospect of the

CTO Diary of {Rome

city. In one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of
Bassano, the one a Vulcan, the other a Nativity ; there 1s
a German clock full of rare and extraordinary motions ;
and, in a little room below are many precious marbles,
columns, urns, vases, and noble statues of porphyry,
oriental alabaster, and other rare materials. About this
fabric is an ample area, environed with sixteen vast jars
of red earth, wherein the Romans used to preserve their
oil, or wine rather, which they buried, and such as are
properly called testa. In the Palace I must never forget
the famous statue of the Gladiator, spoken of by Pliny, so
much followed by all the rare artists as the many copies
testify, dispersed through almost all Europe, both in stone
and metal. There is also a Hercules, a head of porphyry,
and one of Marcus Aurelius. In the villa-house is a man’s
body flesh and all, petrified, and even converted to marble,
as it was found in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to
one of the Popes; it lay in a chest, or coffin, lined with
black velvet, and one of the arms being broken, you may
see the perfect bone from the flesh which remains entire.
The Rape of Proserpine, in marble, is of the purest white,
the work of Bernini. In the cabinet near it are innumerable
small brass figures, and other curiosities. But what some
look upon as exceeding all the rest, is a very rich bedstead
(which sort of gross furniture the Italians much glory in,
as formerly did our grandfathers in England in their inlaid —
wooden ones) inlaid with all sorts of precious stones and
antique heads, onyxes, agates, and cornelians, esteemed
to be worth 80 or 90,000 crowns. Here are also divers
cabinets and tables of the Florence work, besides pictures
in the gallery, especially the Apollo—a conceited chair to |
sleep in with the legs stretched out, with hooks, and pieces
of wood to draw out longer or shorter.

From this villa, we went to see Signor Angeloni’s study,
who very courteously showed us such a collection of rare
medals as is hardly to be paralleled; divers good pictures,
and many outlandish and Indian curiosities, and things of
nature.

From him, we walked to Monte Cavallo, heretofore called
Mons Quirinalis, where we saw those two rare horses, the
work of the rivals Phidias and Praxiteles, as they were
sent to Nero [by Tiridates King] out of Armenia. They
were placed on pedestals of white marble by Sextus V., by

1644] John Evelyn 6

whom I suppose their injuries were repaired, and are
governed by four naked slaves, like those at the foot of the
Capitol. Here runs a most noble fountain, regarding four
of the most stately streets for building and beauty to be
seen in any city of Europe. Opposite to these statues is
the Pope’s summer palace, built by Gregory XIII.; and,
in my opinion, it is, for largeness and the architecture, one
of the most conspicuous in Rome, having a stately portico
which leads round the court under columns, in the centre
of which there runs a beautiful fountain. The chapel is
incrusted with such precious materials, that nothing can
be more rich, or glorious, nor are the other ornaments
and moveables about it at all inferior. The hall is painted
by Lanfranci, and others. The garden, which is called
the Belvedere di Monte Cavallo, in emulation to that of
the Vatican, is most excellent for air and prospect; its
exquisite fountains, close walks, grots, piscinas, or stews
for fish, planted about with venerable cypresses, and
refreshed with water-music, aviaries, and other rarities.

12th November. We saw Dioclesian’s Baths, whose
ruins testify the vastness of the original foundation and
magnificence ; by what M. Angelo took from the ornaments
about it, ’tis said he restored the then almost lost art of
architecture. This monstrous pile was built by the labour
of the primitive Christians, then under one of the ten great
persecutions. The Church of St. Bernardo is made out of
-one only of these ruinous cupolas, and is in the form of
an urn with a cover.

Opposite to this, is the Fontana delle Therme, otherwise
called Fons Felix; in it is a basso-relievo of white marble,
representing Moses striking the rock, which is adorned
with camels, men, women, and children drinking, as large
as life; a work for the design and vastness truly magnifi-
cent. The water is conveyed no less than twenty-two miles
in an aqueduct by Sextus V., ex agro Columna, by way of
Preeneste, as the inscription testifies. It gushes into three
ample lavers raised about with stone, before which are
placed two lions of a strange black stone, very rare and
antique. Near this are the store-houses for the city’s corn,
and over-against it the Church of St. Susanna, where were
the gardens of Sallust. The facciata of this church is
noble, the soffito within gilded and full of pictures ; especi-
ally famous is that of Susanna, by Baldassa di Bologna.

112 Diary of [Rome

The tribunal of the high altar is of exquisite work, from
whose marble steps you descend under-ground to the re-
pository of divers Saints. The picture over this altar is
the work of Jacomo Siciliano. The foundation is for
Bernadine Nuns.

Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most
ravishing front. In this church was sung the Te Deum
by Gregory XV., after the signal victory of the Emperor
at Prague; the standards then taken still hang up, and
the impress waving this motto over the Pope’s arms, Extir-
pentur. I observed that the high altar was much frequented
for an image of the Virgin. It has some rare statues,
as Paul ravished into the third heaven, by Fiamingo,
and some good pictures. From this, we bent towards
Dioclesian’s Baths, never satisfied with contemplating that
immense pile, in building which 150,000 Christians were
destined to labour fourteen years, and were then all mur-
dered. Here is a monastery of Carthusians, called Santa
Maria degli Angeli, the architecture of M. Angelo, and the |
cloister encompassing walls in an ample garden.

Mont Alto’s villa is entered by a stately gate of stone
built on the Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious park
full of fountains, especially that which salutes us at the ©
front; stews for fish; the cypress walks are so beset with
statues, inscriptions, relievos, and other ancient marbles,
that nothing can be more stately and solemn. The citron
trees are uncommonly large. In the Palace joining to it are
innumerable collections of value. Returning, we stepped
into St. Agnes church, where there is a tribunal of antique
mosaic, and on the altar a most rich ciborio of brass, with a
statue of St. Agnes in oriental alabaster. The church of
Santa Constanza has a noble cupola. Here they showed us
a stone ship borne on a column heretofore sacred to
Bacchus, as the relievo intimates by the drunken emblems
and instruments wrought upon it. The altar is of rich
porphyry, as I remember. Looking back, we had the entire
view of the Via Pia down to the two horses before the
Monte Cavallo, before mentioned, one of the most glorious
sights for state and magnificence that any city can show a
traveller. We returned by Porta Pia, and the Via Salaria,
near Campo Scelerato, in whose gloomy caves the wanton
Vestals were heretofore immured alive.

Thence to Via Felix, a straight and noble street, but

1644] John Evelyn 113

very precipitous, till we came to the four fountains of
Lepidus, built at the abutments of four stately ways,
making an exact cross of right angles; and, at the foun-
tains, are as many cumbent figures of marble, under very
large niches of stone, the water pouring into huge basins.
The church of St. Carlo is a singular fabric for neatness, of
an oval design, built of a new white stone; the columns
are worth notice. Under it is another church of a structure
nothing less admirable.

Next, we came to Santa Maria Maggiore, built upon the
Esqueline Mountain, which gives it a most conspicuous
face to the street at a great distance. The design is mixed,
partly antique, partly modern. Here they affirm that the
Blessed Virgin appearing, showed where it should be built
300 years since. The first pavement is rare and antique;
so is the portico built by P. P. Eugenius II. The ciborio
is the work of Paris Romano, and the tribunal of Mosaic.

We were showed in the church a concha of porphyry,
wherein they say Patricius, the founder, lies. This is one
of the most famous of the seven Roman Churches, and is,
in my opinion at least, after St. Peter’s, the most mag-
nificent. Above all, for incomparable glory and materials,
are the two chapels of Sextus V. and Paulus V. That of
Sextus was designed by Dom. Fontana, in which are two
rare great statues, and some good pieces of painting ; and
here they pretended to show some of the Holy Innocents’
bodies slain by Herod: as also that renowned tabernacle
of metal, gilt, sustained by four angels, holding as many
tapers, placed on the altar. In this chapel is the statue of
Sextus, in copper, with basso-relievos of most of his
famous acts, in Parian marble; but that of P. Paulus,
which we next entered, opposite to this, is beyond all
imagination glorious, and above description. It is so
encircled with agates, and other most precious materials,
as to dazzle and confound the beholders. The _ basso-
relievos are for the most part of pure snowy marble, inter-
mixed with figures of molten brass, double gilt, on lapis
lazuli. The altar is a most stupendous piece; but most
incomparable is the cupola painted by Giuseppe Rheni,
and the present Baglioni, full of exquisite sculptures.
There is a most sumptuous sacristia; and the piece over
the altar was by the hand of St. Luke; if you will believe
it. Paulus V. hath here likewise built two other altars;

iF Diary of (Rome

under the one lie the bones of the Apostle, St. Matthias. —
In another oratory, is the statue of this Pope, and the
head of the Congo Ambassador, who was converted at
Rome, and died here. In a third chapel, designed by
Michael Angelo, lie the bodies of Platina, and the Cardinal
of Toledo, Honorius III., Nicephorus IV., the ashes of
St. Hierom, and many others. In that of Sextus V., before
mentioned, was showed us part of the crib in which Christ
was swaddled at Bethlehem; there is also the statue of
Pius V.; and going out at the further end, is the resur-
rection of Lazarus, by a very rare hand. In the portico,
is this late inscription: ‘‘* Cardinal Antonio Barberino
Archypresbytero, aream marmoream quam Christianorum
pietas exsculpsit, laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesia, ut esset
loci sanctitate venerabilior, Francis Gualdus Arm. Eques
S. Stephani @ suis edibus huc transtulit et ornavit, 1632.”’
Just before this portico, stands a very sublime and stately
Corinthian column, of white marble, translated hither for
an ornament from the old Temple of Peace, built by Ves-
pasian, having on the plinth of the capital the image of
our Lady, gilt on metal; at the pedestal runs a fountain. |
Going down the hill, we saw the obelisk taken from the
Mausoleum of Augustus, and erected in this place by
Domenico Fontana, with this epigraph : ‘‘ Sextus V. Pont.
Max. Obeliscumex Egypto advectum, Augustiin Mausoleo
dicatum, eversum, deinde‘et in plures confractum partes,
in via ad S. Rochum jacentem, in pristinam faciem res-
titutum Salutiferze Cruci felicits hic erigi jussit, anno’
MDLXXXvII1, Pont. III.’?:—and so we came weary to our
lodgings.

At the foot of this hill, is the Church of St. Prudentia,
in which is a well, filled with the blood and bones of several
martyrs, but grated over with iron, and visited by many
devotees. Near this stands the church of her sister, S.
Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a
little obscure place, cancelled in with iron work, is the
pillar, or stump, at which they relate our Blessed Saviour
was scourged, being full of bloody spots, at which the
devout sex are always rubbing their chaplets, and convey
their kisses by a stick having a tassel on it. Here, besides
a noble statue of St. Peter, is the tomb of the famous
Cardinal Cajetan, an excellent piece: and here they hold
that St. Peter said his first mass at Rome, with the same

1644] John Evelyn 115

altar and the stone he kneeled on, he having been first
lodged in this house, as they compute about the forty-
fourth year of the Incarnation. They also show many
relics, or rather rags, of his mantle. St. Laurence in
Panisperna did next invite us, where that martyr was
cruelly broiled on the gridiron, there yet remaining. St.
Bridget is buried in this church under a stately monument.
In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Laurence
painted a fresco on the wall. The fabric is nothing but
Gothic. On the left is the Therma Novatii; and, on the
right, Agrippina’s Lavacrum.

14th November. We passed again through the stately
Capitol and Campo Vaccino towards the Amphitheatre of
Vespasian, but first stayed to look at Titus’s Triumphal
Arch, erected by the people of Rome, in honour of his
victory at Jerusalem; on the left hand whereof he is repre-
sented drawn in a chariot with four horses abreast; on
the right-hand, or side of the arch within, is sculptured
in figures, or basso-relievo as big as the life (and in one
entire marble) the Ark of the Covenant, on which stands
the seven-branched candlestick described in Leviticus, as
also the two Tables of the Law, all borne on men’s shoulders
by the bars, as they are described in some of St. Hierom’s
bibles ; before this, go many crowned and laureated figures,
and twelve Roman fasces, with other sacred vessels. This
much confirmed the idea | before had; and therefore, for
the light it gave to the Holy History, I caused my painter,
Carlo, to copy it exactly. The rest of the work of the
Arch is of the noblest, best understood composita; and
the inscription is this, in capital letters;

S.P.Q. R.
D. TITO, D. VESPASIANI, F. VESPASIANI AVGVSTO.

Santa Maria Nova is on the place where they told us
Simon Magus fell out of the air at St. Peter’s prayer, and
burst himself to pieces on a flint. Near this is a marble
monument, erected by the people of Rome in memory of
the Pope’s return from Avignon.

Being now passed the ruins of Meta-Sudante (which
stood before the Colosseum, so called, because there once
stood here the statue of Commodus provided to refresh the
gladiators), we enter the mighty ruins of the Vespasian
Amphitheatre, begun by Vespasian, and finished by that

116 Diary of [Rome

excellent prince, Titus. It is 830 Roman palms in length,
(t. e. 130 paces), go in breadth at the area, with caves for
the wild beasts which used to be baited by men instead of
dogs; the whole oval periphery 28884 palms, and capable
of containing 87,000 spectators with ease and all accom-
modation: the three rows of circles are yet entire; the
first was for the senators, the middle for the nobility, the
third for the people. At the dedication of this place were
5000 wild beasts slain in three months during which the
feast lasted, to the expense of ten millions of gold. It
was built of Tiburtine stone, a vast height, with the five
orders of architecture, by 30,000 captive Jews. It is
without, of a perfect circle, and was once adorned thick
with statues, and remained entire, till of late that some of
the stones were carried away to repair the city-walls and
build the Farnesian Palace. That which still appears most
admirable is, the contrivance of the porticos, vaults, and
stairs, with the excessive altitude, which weil deserves
this distich of the poet:

Omnis Czsareo cedat labor Amphitheatro ;
Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus.

Near it is a small chapel called Santa Maria della Pieta
nel Colisseo, which is erected on the steps, or stages, very
lofty at one of its sides, or ranges, within, and where there
lives only a melancholy hermit. I ascended to the very
top of it with wonderful admiration.

The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta-
Sudante, before mentioned, at the beginning of the Via
Appia, on one side Monte Celio, and is perfectly entire,
erected by the people in memory of his victory over Maxen-
tius, at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole. In the front
is this inscription :

IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO
B. Ke AVGVSTO''S..P. QO. oR.
QVOD INSTINCTYV DIVINITATIS MENTIS
MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO
TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS
FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS

REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS
ARCVM TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DICAVIT,

Hence, we went to St. Gregorio, in Monte Celio, where
are many privileged altars, and there they showed us an

1644] John Evelyn 117

arm of that saint, and other relics. Before this church
stands a very noble portico.

15th November. Was very wet, and I stirred not out,
and the 16th I went to visit Father John, Provincial of the
Benedictines.

17th. I walked to Villa Borghese, a house and ample
garden on Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the city-
walls, circumscribed by another wall full of small turrets
and banqueting-houses; which makes it appear at a dis-
tance like a little town. Within it is an elysium of delight,
having in the centre of it a noble palace; but the entrance
of the garden presents us with a very glorious fabric, or
rather door-case, adorned with divers excellent marble
statues. This garden abounded with all sorts of delicious
fruit and exotic simples, fountains of sundry inventions,
groves, and small rivulets. There is also adjoining to it
a vivarium for ostriches, peacocks, swans, cranes, &c., and
divers strange beasts, deer, and hares. The grotto is very
rare, and represents, among other devices, artificial rain,
and sundry shapes of vessels, flowers, &c. ; which is effected
by changing the heads of the fountains. The groves are of
cypress, laurel, pine, myrtle, and olive. The four sphinxes
are very antique, and worthy observation. To this is a
volary, full of curious birds. The house is square with tur-
rets, from which the prospect is excellent towards Rome,
and the environing hills, covered as they now are with
snow, which indeed commonly continues even a great part
of the summer, affording sweet refreshment. Round the
house is a baluster of white marble, with frequent jettos
of water, and adorned with a multitude of statues. The
walls of the house are covered with antique incrustations
of history, as that of Curtius, the Rape of Europa, Leda,
&c. The cornices above consist of fruitages and festoons,
between which are niches furnished with statues, which
order is observed to the very roof. In the lodge, at the
entry, are divers good statues of Consuls, &c., with two
pieces of field-artillery upon carriages, (a mode much
practised in Italy before the great men’s houses) which
they look on as a piece of state more than defence. In
the first hall within, are the twelve Roman Emperors, of
excellent marble; betwixt them stand porphyry columns,
and other precious stones of vast height and magnitude,
with urns of oriental alabaster. Tables of pietra-com-

118 Diary of [Rome

messa: and here is that renowned Diana which Pompey
worshipped, of eastern marble: the most incomparable
Seneca of touch, bleeding in an huge vase of porphyry,
resembling the drops of his blood; the so famous Gladiator,
and the Hermaphrodite upon a quilt of stone. The new
piece of Daphne, and David, of Cavaliero Bernini, is ob-
servable for the pure whiteness of the stone, and the art
of the statuary plainly stupendous. There is a muititude
of rare pictures of infinite value, by the best masters; huge
tables of porphyry, and two exquisitely wrought vases of
the same. In another chamber, are divers sorts of instru-
ments of music: amongst other toys that of a satyr, which
so artificially expressed a human voice, with the motion
of eyes and head, that it might easily affright one who
was not prepared for that most extravagant sight. They
showed us also a chair that catches fast any who sits down
in it, so as not to be able to stir out, by certain springs con-
cealed in the arms and back thereof, which at sitting down
surprises a man on the sudden, locking him in by the arms |
and thighs, after a true treacherous Italian guise. The
perspective is also considerable, composed by the position |
of looking-glasses, which render a strange multiplication |
of things resembling divers most richly furnished rooms.
Here stands a rare clock of German work; in a word,
nothing but what is magnificent is to be seen in this
Paradise.

The next day, I went to the Vatican, where, in the
morning, I saw the ceremony of Pamfilio, the Pope’s
nephew, receiving a Cardinal’s hat; this was the first time
1 had seen his Holiness in pontificalibus. After the Car-
dinals and Princes had met in the consistory, the ceremony
was in the Pope’s chapel, where he was at the altar
invested with most pompous rites.

19th November. | visited St. Peter’s, that most stupend-
ous and incomparable Basilica, far surpassing any now
extant in the world, and perhaps, Solomon’s Temple ex-
cepted, any that was ever built. The largeness of the
piazza before the portico is worth observing, because it
affords a noble prospect of the church, not crowded up,
as for the most part is the case in other places where great
churches are erected. In this is a fountain, out of which
gushes a river rather than a stream which, ascending a
good height, breaks upon a round emboss of marble into

1644) John Evelyn 119

millions of pearls that fall into the subjacent basins with

great noise; I esteem this one of the goodliest fountains
I ever saw.

Next is the obelisk transported out of Egypt, and dedi-
cated by Octavius Augustus to Julius Ceesar, whose ashes
it formerly bore on the summit; but, being since over-
turned by the barbarians, was re-erected with vast cost
and a most stupendous invention by Domenico Fontana,
architect to Sextus V. The obelisk consists of one entire
square stone without hieroglyphics, in height seventy-two
feet, but comprehending the base and all it is 108 feet high,
and rests on four Lions of gilded copper, so as you may

see through the base of the obelisk and plinth of the
pedestal.

Upon two faces of the obelisk is engraven

DIVO CAES. DIV}
IVLII F. AVGVSTO
TI. CAES. DIVI AVG.
F. AVGVS. SACRVM.

It now bears on the top a cross in which it is said that
Sextus V. inclosed some of the holy wood; and under it is
to be read by good eyes:

SANCTISSIMAE CRVCI
SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX.
CONSECRAVIT.

E. PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM
ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB.
1. L. ABLATUM M.D.LXXXVI.

On the four faces of the base below:

I. CHRISTVS VINCIT.

CHRISTVS REGNAT.

CHRISTVS IMPERAT.
CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO
PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT.

a. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX..
OBELISCVNM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM
IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM
AD APOSTOLORVM LIMINA
OPEROSO LABORE TRANSTVLIT
AN. M.D.LXXXVI, PONT. Ii.

3. ECCE CRVX DOMINI
FVGITE PARTES
ADVERSAR
VINCIT LEO
DE TRIBV IVDA.

120 Diary of (Rome

4- SEXTVS V. PONT. MAK.
CRVCI INVICTAE
OBELISCVM VATICANVM
AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE
EXPIATVM IVSTIVS
ET FELICITVS CONSECRAVIT
AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. Il.

A little lower:

DOMINICVS FONTANA EX PAGO MILIAGRI NOVOCOMENSIS TRANSTVLI1
ET EREXIT.*

It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have
cost 37,975 crowns, the labour of 907 men, and 75 horses :
this being the first of the four Egyptian obelisks set up at
Rome, and one of the forty-two brought to the city out of
Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by the
Goths, Barbarians, and earthquakes.2, Some coaches stood
before the steps of the ascent, whereof one, belonging to

Cardinal Medici, had ail the metal work of massy silver, |

viz. the bow behind and other places. The coaches at
Rome, as well as covered waggons also much in use, are
generally the richest and largest I ever saw. Before the |
faccidta of the church is an ample pavement. The church >

was first begun by St. Anacletus, when rather a chapei,

on a foundation, as they give out, of Constantine the Great,
who, in honour of the Apostles, carried twelve baskets full
of sand to the work. After him, Julius II. took it in hand,
to which all his successors have contributed more or less.
The front is supposed to be the largest and best-studied
piece of architecture in the world; to this we went up by
four steps of marble. The first entrance is supported by
huge pilasters; the volto within is the richest possible, and
overlaid with gold. Between the five large anti-ports are
columns of enormous height and compass, with as many
gates of brass, the work and sculpture of Pollaivola, the
Florentine, full of cast figures and histories in a deep
relievo. Over this runs a terrace of like amplitude and
ornament, where the Pope, at solemn times, bestows his
Benediction on the vulgar. On each side of this portico
1 In 1589, this distinguished architect published a folio volume,
with engravings, descriptive of the manner of removing and re-
erecting this famous monument of antiquity, entitled Del modo
tenuto nel trasportare I’ Obelisco Vaticano; with his portrait in the

title-page, holding a model of this column.
See Platina in Vita Pontiff, p. 315.

1644) John Evelyn I2!

are two campaniles, or towers, whereof there was but one
perfected, of admirable art. On the top of all, runs a
balustrade which edges it quite round, and upon this at
equal distances are Christ and the twelve Disciples, of
gigantic size and stature, yet below showing no greater
than the life. Entering the church, admirable is the breadth
of the volto, or roof, which is all carved with foliage and
roses overlaid with gold in nature of a deep basso-relievo,
a l’antique. The nave, or body, is in form of a cross,
whereof the foot-part is the longest; and, at the internodium
of the transept, rises the cupola, which being all of stone
and of prodigious height is more in compass than that of
the Pantheon (which was the largest amongst the old
Romans, and is yet entire) or any other known. The in-
side, or concave, is covered with most exquisite Mosaic,
representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by Giuseppe d’Arpino,
full of stars of gold; the convex, or outside, exposed to the
air, is covered with lead, with great ribs of metal double
gilt (as are also the ten other lesser cupolas, for no fewer
adorn this glorious structure), which gives a great and
admirable splendour in all parts of the city. On the summit
of this is fixed a brazen globe gilt, capable of receiving
thirty-five persons. This I entered, and engraved my name
amongst other travellers. Lastly, is the Cross, the access
to which is between the leaden covering and the stone con-
vex, or arch-work; a most truly astonishing piece of art!
On the battlements of the church, also all overlaid with lead
and marble, you would imagine yourself in a town, so many
are the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, juttings, and not a few
houses inhabited by men who dwell there, and have enough
to do to look after the vast reparations which continually
employ them.

Having seen this, we descended into the body of the
church, full of collateral chapels and large oratories, most
of them exceeding the size of ordinary churches; but the
principal are four incrusted with most precious marbles
and stones of various colours, adorned with an infinity of
Statues, pictures, stately altars, and innumerable relics.
The altar-piece of St. Michael being of Mosaic, I could not
pass without particular note, as one of the best of that
kind. The chapel of Gregory XIII., where he is buried,
is most splendid. Under the cupola, and in the centre of
the church, stands the high altar, consecrated first by

22 Diary of (Rome

Clement VIII., adorned by Paul V., and lately covered by
Pope Urban VIII.; with that stupendous canopy of Corin-
thian brass, which heretofore was brought from the Pan-
theon; it consists of four wreathed columns, partly channelled
and encircled with vines, on which hang little puts birds
and bees (the arms of the Barberini), sustaining a baldac-
chino of the same metal. The four columns weigh an —
hundred and ten thousand pounds, all over richly gilt; this, ©
with the pedestals, crown, and statues about it, form a
thing of that art, vastness, and magnificence, as is beyond —
ail that man’s industry has produced of the kind; it is the
work of Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, painter,
and poet, who, a little before my coming to the city, gave
a public opera (for so they call shows of that kind), wherein
he painted the scenes, cut the statues, invented the engines,
composed the music, writ the comedy, and built the theatre.
Opposite to either of these pillars, under those niches which,
with their columns, support the weighty cupola, are placed
four exquisite statues of Parian marble, to which are four
altars; that of St. Veronica, made by Fra. Mochi, has over
it the reliquary, where they showed us the miraculous
Sudarium indued with the picture of our Saviour’s face,
with this inscription: ‘‘ Salvatoris imaginem Veronice
Sudario exceptam ut loci majestas decentér custodiret,
Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmoreum signum et Altare
addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit.’’ .

Right against this is that of Longinus, of a Colossean
magnitude, also by Bernini, and over him the conservatory
of the iron lance inserted in a most precious crystal, with
this epigraph: ‘‘ Longini Lanceam quam [nnocentius VIII.
a Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII.
statua apposita, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Con-
ditorium transtulit.”’

The third chapel has over the altar the statue of our
countrywoman, St. Helena, the mother of Constantine the
Great; the work of Boggi, an excellent sculptor; and here
is preserved a great piece of the pretended wood of the holy
cross, which she is said to have first detected miraculously
in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope
with this inscription: ‘‘ Partem Crucis quam Helena Im-
peratrix é Calvario in Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont.
Max. é Sissoriana Basilicd desumptam, additis ara et
statua, hic in Vaticano collocavit.’’

1644) John Evelyn 123

The fourth hath over the altar, and opposite to that of
St. Veronica, the statue of St. Andrew, the work of
Fiamingo, admirable above all the other; above is preserved
the head of that Apostle, richly enchased. It is said that
this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed
in a disadvantageous light by Bernini, the chief architect,
who found himself outdone by this artist. The inscription
Over it is this:

St. Andrew caput quod Pius II. ex AchaiA in Vaticanum asportan-
dum curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hic ornamentis decoratum sacris-
que statuze ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit.

The relics showed and kept in this church are without
number, as are also the precious vessels of gold, silver, and
geins, with the vests and services to be seen in the Sacristy,
which they showed us. Under the high altar is an ample
yrot inlaid with pietra-commessa, wherein half of the bodies
of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserved; before hang divers
great lamps of the richest plate, burning continually. About
this and contiguous to the altar, runs a balustrade, in form
of a theatre, of black marble. Towards the left, as you go
out of the church by the portico, a little beneath the high
altar, is an old brass statue of St. Peter sitting, under the
soles of whose feet many devout persons rub their heads,
and touch their chaplets. This was formerly cast from a
statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another place, stands a
column grated about with iron, whereon they report that
our Blessed Saviour was often wont to lean as he preached
in the Temple. In the work of the reliquary under the
cupola there are eight wreathed columns brought from the
Temple of Solomon. In another chapel, they showed us
the chair of St. Peter, or, as they name it, the Apostolical
Throne. But amongst all the chapels the one most glorious
has for an altar-piece a Madonna bearing a dead Christ on
her knees, in white marble, the work of Michael Angelo.
At the upper end of the Cathedral, are several stately monu-
ments, especially that of Urban VIII. Round the Cupola,
and in many other places in the church, are confession-
seats, for all languages, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish,
Italian, French, English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch,
&c., as it is written on their friezes in golden capitals, and
there are still at confessions some of all nations. Towards
the lower end of the church, and on the side of a vast pillar

I 220 F

124 Diary of {Rome

sustaining a weighty roof, is the depositum and statue of
the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, with basso-relievos
about it of white marble, the work of Bernini. Here are
also those of Sextus IV. and Paulus III., &c. Amongst
the exquisite pieces in this sumptuous fabric is that of the
ship with St. Peter held up from sinking by our Saviour; |
the emblems about it are the Mosaic of the famous Giotto,
who restored and made it perfect after it had been defaced
by the Barbarians. Nor is the pavement under the cupola
to be passed over without observation, which with the rest
of the body and walls of the whole church, are all inlaid
with the richest of pietra-commessa, in the most splendid
colours of polished marbles, agates, serpentine, porphyry,
calcedon, &c., wholly incrusted to the very roof. Coming
out by the portico at which we entered, we were showed
the Porta Santa, never opened but at the year of jubilee.
This glorious foundation hath belonging to it thirty canons,
thirty-six beneficiates, twenty-eight clerks beneficed, with
innumerable chaplains, &c., a Cardinal being always arch-
priest; the present Cardinal was Francisco Barberini, who
also styled himself Protector of the English, to whom he
was indeed very courteous.

2oth November. I went to visit that ancient See and
Cathedral of St. John di Laterano, and the holy places
thereabout. This is a church of extraordinary devotion,
though, for outward form, not comparable to St. Peter’s,
being of Gothic ordonnance. Before we went into the
cathedral, the Baptistery of St. John Baptist presented
itself being formerly part of the Great Constantine’s Palace,
and, as it is said, his chamber where by St. Silvester he
was made a Christian. It is of an octagonal shape, having
before the entrance eight fair pillars of rich porphyry, each’
of one entire piece, their capitals of divers orders, support-
ing lesser columns of white marble, and these supporting
a noble cupola, the moulding whereof is excellently wrought.
In the chapel which they affirm to have been the lodging
place of this Emperor, all women are prohibited from enter-
ing, for the malice of Herodias who caused him to lose his
head. Here are deposited several sacred relics of St.
James, Mary Magdalen, St. Matthew, &c., and two goodly
pictures. Another chapel, or oratory near it, is called St.
John the Evangelist, well adorned with marbles and tables,
especially those of Cavaliére Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in

1644) John Evelyn 125

fresco. We went hence into another called St. Venantius,
in which is a tribunal all of Mosaic in figures of Popes.
Here is also an altar of the Madonna, much visited, and
divers Sclavonish saints, companions of Pope John IV.
The portico of the church is built of materials brought from
Pontius Pilate’s house in Jerusalem.

The next sight which attracted our attention, was a
wonderful concourse of people at their devotions before a
place called Scala Sancta, to which is built a noble front.
Entering the portico, we saw those large marble stairs,
twenty-eight in number, which are never ascended but on
the knees, some lip-devotion being used on every step; on
which you may perceive divers red specks of blood under
a grate, which they affirm to have been drops of our Blessed
Saviour, at the time he was so barbarously misused by
Herod’s soldiers; for these stairs are reported to have been
translated hither from his palace in Jerusalem. At the top
of them is a chapel, whereat they enter (but we could not
be permitted) by gates of marble, being the same our
Saviour passed when he went out of Herod’s house. This
they name the Sanctum Sanctorum, and over it we read
this epigraph :

Non est in toto sanctior orbe locus.

Here, through a grate, we saw that picture of Christ
painted (as they say) by the hand of St. Luke, to the life.
Descending again, we saw before the church the obelisk,
which is indeed most worthy of admiration. It formerly
lay in the Circo Maximo, and was erected here by Sextus
V., in 1587, being 112 feet in height without the base or
pedestal; at the foot nine and a half one way, and eight
the other. This pillar was first brought from Thebes at
the utmost confines of Egypt, to Alexandria, from thence
to Constantinople, thence to Rome, and is said by Am-
mianus Marcellinus to have been dedicated to Rameses,
King of Egypt. It was transferred to this city by Constan-
tine the son of the Great, and is full of hieroglyphics, ser-
pents, men, owls, falcons, oxen, instruments, &c., contain-
ing (as Father Kircher the Jesuit will shortly tell us in a
book which he is ready to publish) all the recondite and
abstruse learning of that people. The vessel, galley, or
float, that brought it to Rome so many hundred leagues,
must needs have been of wonderful bigness and strange

126 Diary of [Rome

fabric. The stone is one and entire, and [having been
thrown down] was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana,
for that magnificent Pope, Sextus V., as the rest were; it
is now cracked in many places, but solidly joined. The
obelisk is thus inscribed at the several facciatas :

Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum 4
patre suo motum diuqg; Alexandriz jacentem, trecentorum remigum
impositum navi mirandz vastitatis per mare Tyberimq; magnis
molibus Romam convectum in Circo Max. ponendum S.P.Q.R.D.D.

On the second square:

Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christiane fidei Vindex & Assertor,
Obeliscum ab Aigyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum, sedibus
avulsum suis per Nilum transfer. Alexandriam, ut Novam Romam
ab se tunc conditam eo decoraret monumento.

On the third:

Sextus V. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximid temporum
calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo, limeq; alté demersum,
mult&é impensA extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit,
formaq; pristina accuraté vestitum, Cruci invictissim# dicavit anno
M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. IIIT. |

On the fourth:

Constantinus per Crucem Victor a Silvestro hic Baptizatus Crucis
gloriam propagavit.

Leaving this wonderful monument (before which is a
stately public fountain, with a statue of St. John in the
middle of it), we visited his Holiness’s Palace, being a little;
on the left hand, the design of Fontana, architect to Sextus
V. This I take to be one of the best Palaces in Rome; but
not staying, we entered the church of St. John di Laterano,
which is properly the Cathedral of the Roman See, as I
learned by these verses engraven upon the architrave of the
portico :

Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali

Quod sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiari
Hinc Salvatoris coelestia regna datoris

Nomine Sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt;

Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto
Nostra quéd hec edes; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes.

It is called Lateran, from a noble family formerly dwell
ing it seems hereabouts, on Mons Czelius. The church i
Gothic, and hath a stately tribunal; the paintings are o
Pietro Pisano. It was the first church that was consecrate

1644] John Evelyn i279

with the ceremonies now introduced, and where altars of
stone supplied those of wood heretofore in use, and made
like large chests for the easier removal in times of perse-
cution; such an altar is still the great one here preserved,
as being that on which (they hold) St. Peter celebrated
mass at Rome; for which reason none but the Pope may
now presume to make that use of it. The pavement is of
all sorts of precious marbles, and so are the walls to a great
height, over which it is painted a fresco with the life and
acts of Constantine the Great, by most excellent masters.
The organs are rare, supported by four columns. The
soffito is all richly gilded, and full of pictures. Opposite to
the porta is an altar of exquisite architecture, with a taber-
nacle on it all of precious stones, the work of Targoni; on
this is a coena of plate, the invention of Curtius Vanni, of
exceeding value; the tables hanging over it are of Giuseppe
d’Arpino. About this are four excellent columns trans-
ported out of Asia by the Emperor Titus, of brass, double
gilt, about twelve feet in height; the walls between them
are incrusted with marble and set with statues in niches,
the vacuum reported to be filled with holy earth, which St.
Helena sent from Jerusalem to her son, Constantine, who
set these pillars where they now stand. At one side of
this is an oratory full of rare paintings and monuments,
especially those of the great Connestdbile Colonna. Out
of this we came into the Sacristia, full of good pictures of
Albert and others. At the end of the church is a flat stone
supported by four pillars which they affirm to have been
the exact height of our Blessed Saviour, and say they never
fitted any mortal man that tried it, but he was either taller
or shorter; two columns of the veil of the Temple which
rent at his passion; the stone on which they threw lots for
his seamless vesture; and the pillar on which the cock
crowed, after Peter’s denial; and, to omit no fine thing, the
just length of the Virgin Mary’s foot as it seems her shoe-
maker affirmed! Here is a sumptuous cross, beset with
precious stones, containing some of the very wood of the
holy cross itself; with many other things of this sort: also
numerous most magnificent monuments, especially those of
St. Helena, of porphyry; Cardinal Farneze; Martin I.,
of copper; the pictures of Mary Magdalen, Martin V.,
Laurentius Valla, &c., are of Gaetano; the Nunciata, de-
signed by M. Angelo; and the great crucifix of Sermoneta.

128 Diary of {Rome

In a chapel at one end of the porch is a statue of Henry IV.
of France, in brass, standing in a dark hole, and so has
done many years; perhaps from not believing him a
thorough proselyte. The two famous CEcumenical Councils
were celebrated in this Church by Pope Simachus, Martin
I., Stephen, &c.

Leaving this venerable church (for in truth it has a
certain majesty in it), we passed through a fair and large
hospital of good architecture, having some inscriptions put
up by Barberini, the late Pope’s nephew. We then went
by St. Sylvia, where is a noble statue of St. Greyory P.,
begun by M. Angelo; a St. Andrew, and the bath of St.
Cecilia. In this church are some rare paintings, especially
that story on the wall of Guido Rheni. Thence to St.
Giovanni e Paula, where the friars are reputed to be great
chymists. The choir, roof, and paintings in the tribuna are
excellent.

Descending the Mons Ceelius, we came against the ves-
tiges of the Palazzo Maggiore, heretofore the Golden House
of Nero; now nothing but a heap of vast and confused
ruins, to show what time and the vicissitude of human
things does change from the most glorious and magnificent
to the most deformed and confused. We next went into
St. Sebastian’s Church, which has a handsome front: then
we passed by the place where Romulus and Remus were
taken up by Faustulus, the Forum Romanum, and so by
the edge of the Mons Palatinus; where we saw the ruins
of Pompey’s house, and the Church of St. Anacletus; and

so into the Circus Maximus, heretofore capable of contain- |

ing a hundred and sixty thousand spectators, but now all
one entire heap of rubbish, part of it converted into a garden
of pot-herbs. We concluded this evening with hearing the
rare voices and music at the Chiesa Nova.

21st November. I was carried to see a great virtuoso,
Cavaliéro Pozzo, who showed us a rare collection of all
kind of antiquities, and a choice library, over which are the
effigies of most of our late men of polite literature. He

hada great collection of the antique basso-relievos about

Rome, which this curious man had caused to be designed
in several folios: many fine medals; the stone which Pliny
calls Enhydros; it had plainly in it the quantity of half a
spoonful of water, of a yellow pebble colour, of the bigness
of a walnut. A stone paler than an amethyst, which yet he

-

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1644) John Evelyn 129

affirmed to be the true carbuncle, and harder than a
diamond; it was set in a ring, without foil, or anything at
the bottom, so as it was transparent, of a greenish yellow,
more lustrous than a diamond. He had very pretty things
painted on crimson velvet, designed in black, and shaded
and heightened with white, set in frames ; also a number
of choice designs and drawings.

Hence we walked to the Suburra and Zrarium Saturni,
where yet remain some ruins and an inscription. From
thence to St. Pietro in vinculis, one of the seven churches
on the Esquiline, an old and much-frequented place of
great devotion for the relics there, especially the bodies of
the seven Maccabean brethren, which lie under the altar.
On the wall is a St. Sebastian, of mosaic, after the Greek
manner: but what I chiefly regarded was, that noble
sepulchre of Pope Julius II., the work of M. Angelo; with
that never-sufficiently- to-be- admired statue of Moses, in
white marble, and those of Vita Contemplativa and Activa,
by the same incomparable hand. To this church belongs
a monastery, in the court of whose cloisters grow two tall
and very stately palm-trees. Behind these, we walked a
turn amongst the Baths of Titus, admiring the strange and
prodigious receptacles for water, which the vulgar call the
Setti Sali, now all in heaps.

22nd November. Was the solemn and greatest ceremony
of all the State Ecclesiastical, viz., the procession of the
Pope (Innocent X.) to St. John di Laterano, which, stand-
ing on the steps of Ara Celi, near the Capitol, I saw pass
in this manner :—First went a guard of Switzers to make
way, and divers of the avant guard of horse carrying lances.
Next followed those who carried the robes of the Cardinals,
two and two; then the Cardinal’s macebearers; the cau-
datari, on mules; the masters of their horse; the Pope’s
barber, tailor, baker, gardener, and other domestic officers,
all on horseback, in rich liveries; the squires belonging to
the Guard; five men in rich liveries led five noble Neapo-
litan horses, white as snow, covered to the ground with
trappings richly embroidered; which is a service paid by
the King of Spain for the kingdoms of Naples and Sicily,
pretended feudatories to the Pope; three mules of exquisite
beauty and price, trapped in crimson velvet; next followed
three rich litters with mules, the litters empty; the master
of the horse alone, with his squires; five trumpeters; the

130 Diary of [Rome

armerieri estra muros ; the fiscal and consistorial advocates ;
capellani, camerieri de honore, cubiculari and chamberlains,
called secreti.

Then followed four other camerieri, with four caps of the
dignity-pontifical, which were Cardinals’ hats carried on
staves; four trumpets; after them, a number of noble
Romans and gentlemen of quality, very rich, and followed
by innumerable staffiéri and pages; the secretaries of the
chancellaria, abbreviatori-accoliti in their long robes, and
on mules; auditori di rota; the dean of the roti and master
of the sacred palace, on mules, with grave, but rich foot-
clothes, and in flat episcopal hats; then went more of the
Roman and other nobility and courtiers, with divers pages
in most rich liveries on horseback; fourteen drums belong-
ing to the Capitol; the marshals with their staves; the
two syndics; the conservators of the city, in robes of
crimson damask; the knight-confalionier and prior of the
R. R., in velvet toques ; six of his Holiness’s mace-bearers ;
then the captain, or governor, of the Castle of St. Angelo,
upon a brave prancer; the governor of the city; on both
sides of these two long ranks of Switzers; the masters of
the ceremonies; the cross-bearer on horseback, with two
priests at each hand on foot; pages, footmen, and guards,
in abundance. Then came the Pope himself, carried in a
litter, or rather open chair, of crimson velvet, richly em-
broidered, and borne by two stately mules; as he went, he
held up two fingers, blessing the multitude who were on
their knees, or looking out of their windows and houses,
with loud vivas and acclamations of felicity to their new
Prince. This chair was followed by the master of his _
chamber, cup-bearer, secretary, and physician; then came.
the Cardinal-Bishops, Cardinal-Priests, Cardinal-Deacons,
Patriarchs, Archbishops, and Bishops, all in their several
and distinct habits, some in red, others in green flat hats
with tassels, all on gallant mules richly-trapped with velvet,
and led by their servants in great state and multitudes ;
after them, the apostolical protonotari, auditor, treasurer,
and referendaries; lastly, the trumpets of the rear-guard,
two pages of arms in helmets with feathers, and carrying
lances; two captains; the pontifical standard of the
Church; the two alfieri, or cornets, of the Pope’s light
horse, who all followed in armour and carrying lances;
which, with innumerable rich coaches, litters, and people,

1644] John Evelyn 131

made up the procession. What they did at St. John di
Laterano, I could not see, by reason of the prodigious
crowd; so I spent most of the day in viewing the two
triumphal arches which had been purposely erected a few
days before, and till now covered; the one by the Duke
of Parma, in the Foro Romano, the other by the Jews in
the Capitol, with flattering inscriptions. They were of
excellent architecture, decorated with statues and abund-
ance of ornaments proper for the occasion, since they
were but temporary, and made up of boards, cloth, &c.,
painted and framed on the sudden, but as to outward
appearance, solid and very stately. The night ended with
fire-works. What I saw was that which was built before
the Spanish Ambassador’s house, in the Piazza del Trinita,
and another, before that of the French. The first appeared
to be a mighty rock, bearing the Pope’s Arms, a dragon,
and divers figures, which being set on fire by one who flung
a rocket at it, kindled immediately, yet preserving the
figure both of the rock and statues a very long time; inso-
much as it was deemed ten thousand reports of squibs and
crackers spent themselves in order. That before the
French Ambassador’s Palace was a Diana drawn in a
chariot by her dogs, with abundance of other figures as
large as the life, which played with fire in the same manner.
In the mean time, the windows of the whole city were set
with tapers put into lanterns, or sconces, of several coloured
oiled paper, that the wind might not annoy them; this
rendered a most glorious show. Besides these, there were
at least twenty other fire-works of vast charge and rare
art for their invention before divers Ambassadors, Princes,
and Cardinals’ Palaces, especially that on the Castle of
St. Angelo, being a pyramid of lights, of great heighr,
fastened tothe ropes and cables which support the standard-
pole. The streets were this night as light as day, full of
bonfires, cannon roaring, music playing, fountains running
wine, in all excess of joy and triumph.

23rd November. I went to the Jesuits’ College again,
the front whereof gives place to few for its architecture,
most of its ornaments being of rich marble. It has within
a noble portico and court, sustained by stately columns,
as is the corridor over the portico, at the sides of which
are the schools for arts and sciences, which are here taught
as at the University. Here I heard Father Athanasius

| 220 ¥P

132 Diary of (Rome

Kircher upon a part of Euclid, which he expounded. To
this joins a glorious and ample church for the students ;
a second is not fully finished; and there are two noble
libraries, where I was showed that famous wit and his-
torian, Famianus Strada.1 Hence we went to the house
of Hippolito Vitellesco (afterwards bibliothecary of the
Vatican library), who showed us one of the best collections
of statues in Rome, to which he frequently talks as if they
were living, pronouncing now and then orations, sentences,
and verses, sometimes kissing and embracing them. He
has a head of Brutus scarred in the face by order of the
Senate for killing Julius; this is much esteemed. Also a
Minerva, and others of great value. This gentleman not
long since purchased land in the kingdom of Naples, in
hope, by digging the ground, to find more statues; which
it seems so far succeeded, as to be much more worth
than the purchase. We spent the evening at the Chiesa
Nova, where was excellent music; but, before that began,
the courteous fathers led me into a nobly furnished library,
contiguous to their most beautiful convent.

28th. 1 went to see the garden and house of the Aldo-
brandini, now Cardinal Borghese’s. This Palace is, for
architecture, magnificence, pomp, and state, one of the
most considerable about the city. It has four fronts, and
a noble piazza before it. Within the courts, under arches
supported by marble columns, are many excellent statues.
Ascending the stairs, there is a rare figure of Diana, of
white marble. The St. Sebastian and Hermaphrodite are
of stupendous art. For paintings, our Saviour’s Head, by
Correggio; several pieces of Raphael, some of which are
small; some of Bassano Veronese; the Leda, and two —
admirable Venuses, are of Titian’s pencil; so is the
Psyche and Cupid; the Head of St. John, borne by Hero-
dias; two heads of Albert Durer, very exquisite. We
were shown here a fine cabinet and tables of Florence-
work in stone. In the gardens are many fine fountains,
the walls covered with citron-trees, which, being rarely

1 Born at Rome,in 1572; after joining the Society of Jesus, in 1592,
appointed professor of rhetoric in their college in Rome; and known
to the English reader by his ‘‘ Prolusiones Academicz,’’ in which he
introduced clever imitations of the Latin poets, translations of several
of which Addison published in the ‘‘ Guardian.’’ He died at Rome in
1649.

1644] John Evelyn 133

spread, invest the stone-work entirely; and, towards the
street, at a back gate, the port is so handsomely clothed
with ivy as much pleased me. About this palace are many
noble antique bassi-relievi: two especially are placed on
the ground, representing armour, and other military furni-
ture of the Romans; beside these, stand about the garden
numerous rare statues, altars, and urns. Above all for
antiquity and curiosity (as being the only rarity of that
nature now known to remain) is that piece of old Roman
painting representing the Roman Sponsalia, or celebration
of their marriage, judged to be 1400 years old, yet are the
colours very lively, and the design very entire, though
found deep in the ground. For this morsel of painting’s
sake only, it is said the Borghesi purchased the house,
because this being on a wall in a kind of banqueting-house
in the garden, could not be removed, but passes with the
inheritance.

29th November. I a second time visited the Medicean
Palace, being near my lodging, the more exactly to have a
view of the noble collections that adorn it, especially the
bassi-relievi and antique friezes inserted about the stone-
work of the house. The Saturn, of metal, standing in the
portico, is a rare piece; so is the Jupiter and Apollo, in
the hall. We were now led into those rooms above we
could not see before, full of incomparable statues and anti-
quities ; above all, and haply preferable to any in the world,
are the Two Wrestlers, for the inextricable mixture with
each other’s arms and legs is stupendous. In the great
chamber is the Gladiator, whetting a knife; but the Venus
is without parallel, being the masterpiece of one whose
name you see graven under it in old Greek characters ;
nothing in sculpture ever approached this miracle of art.
To this add Marcius, Ganymede, a little Apollo playing on
a pipe; some relievi incrusted on the palace-walls; and an
antique vasa of marble, near six feet high. Among the
pictures may be mentioned the Magdalen and St. Peter,
weeping. I pass over the cabinets and tables of pietra
commessa, being the proper invention of the Florentines.
In one of the chambers is a whimsical chair, which folded
into so many varieties, as to turn into a bed, a bolster, a
table, or acouch. I had another walk in the garden, where
are two huge vases, or baths of stone.

I went further up the hill to the Pope’s Palaces at Monte

134 Diary of [Rome

Cavallo, where I now saw the garden more exactly, and
found it to be one of the most magnificent and pleasant in
Rome. I am told the gardener is annually allowed 2000
scudi for the keeping of it. Here I observed hedges of
myrtle above a man’s height; others of laurel, oranges,
nay, of ivy and juniper; the close walks, and rustic grotto;
a cryptall, of which the laver, or basin, is of one vast,
entire, antique porphyry, and below this flows a plentiful
cascade; the steps of the grotto and the roofs being of
rich mosaic. Here are hydraulic organs, a fish-pond, and
an ample bath. From hence, we went to taste some rare
Greco; and so home.

Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept
within, for the most part, till the 6th December; and,
during this time, I entertained one Signor Alessandro, who
gave me some lessons on the theorbo.

The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed
in a ferry-boat, to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in
Transtevere, fairly built, but famous only for the painting
4 fresco on the volto of the portico towards the garden; the
story is the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by the hand of
the celebrated Raphael d’Urbino. Here you always see
painters designing and copying after it, being esteemed
one of the rarest pieces of that art in the world; and with
great reason. I must not omit that incomparable table of
Galatea (as 1 remember), so carefully preserved in the cup-
board at one of the ends of this walk, to protect it from
the air, being a most lively painting. There are likewise
excellent things of Baldassare, and others.

Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of
Bracciano, fairly built, with a stately court and fountain.

Next, we walked to St. Mary’s Church, where was the
Taberna Meritoria, where the old Roman soldiers received
their triumphal garland, which they ever after wore. The
high altar is very fair, adorned with columns of porphyry :
here is also some mosaic work about the choir, and the
Assumption is an esteemed piece. It is said that this —
church was the first that was dedicated to the Virgin at
Rome. In the opposite piazza is a very sumptuous fountain.

12th December. I went again to St. Peter’s, to see the
chapels, churches, and grots under the whole church (like
our St. Faith’s under Paul’s), in which lie interred a multi-
tude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes; amongst them our

1644) John Evelyn 135

countryman, Adrian IV., (Nicholas Brekespere) in a chest
of porphyry; Sir J. Chrysostom; Petronella; the heads
of St. James Minor, St. Luke, St. Sebastian, and our
Thomas 4 Becket; a shoulder of St. Christopher; an arm
of Joseph of Arimathea; Longinus; besides 134 more
Bishops, Soldiers, Princes, Scholars, Cardinals, Kings,
Emperors, their wives; too long to particularize.

Hence we walked into the cemetery, called Campo Santo,
the earth consisting of several ship-loads of mould, trans-
ported from Jerusalem, which consumes a carcase in
twenty-four hours. To this joins that rare hospital, where
once was Nero’s Circus; the next to this is the Inquisition-
house and prison, the inside whereof, I thank God, I was not
curious to see. To this joins his Holiness’s Horse-guards.

On Christmas-eve, I went not to bed, being desirous of
seeing the many extraordinary ceremonies performed then
in their churches, as midnight masses and sermons. I
walked from church to church the whole night in admiration
at the multitude of scenes and pageantry which the friars
had with much industry and craft set out, to catch the devout
women and superstitious sort of people, who never parted
without dropping some money into a vessel set on purpose;
but especially observable was the puppetry in the Church
of the Minerva, representing the Nativity. I thence went
and heard a sermon at the Apollinare; by which time it
was morning. On Christmas-day, his Holiness sang mass,
the artillery of St. Angelo went off, and all this day was
exposed the cradle of our Lord.

29th December. We were invited by the English Jesuits
to dinner, being their great feast of Thomas [4 Becket] of
Canterbury. We dined in their common refectory, and
afterwards saw an Italian comedy acted by their alumni
before the Cardinals.

1645. January. We saw pass the new officers of the
people of Rome; especially, for their noble habits were
most conspicuous, the three Consuls, now called Conserv-
ators, who take their places in the Capitol, having been
sworn the day before between the hands of the Pope. We
ended the day with the rare music at the Chiesa Nova.

6th. Was the ceremony of our Saviour’s baptism in the
Church of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Celi was a great
procession, del Bambino, as they call it, where were all the
magistrates, and a wonderful concourse of people.

I 36 Diary of [Rome

7th. A sermon was preached to the Jews, at Ponte Sisto,
who are constrained to sit till the hour is done; but it is
with so much malice in their countenances, spitting, hum-
ming, coughing, and motion, that it is almost impossible
they should hear a word from the preacher. A conversion
is very rare.

14th. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are exposed
at St. John Laterano.

1sth. The zitelle, or young wenches, which are to have
portions given them by the Pope, being poor, and to marry
them, walked in procession to St. Peter’s, where the
Veronica was showed.

I went to the Ghetto, where the Jews dwell as in a
suburb by themselves; being invited by a Jew of my ac-
quaintance to see a circumcision. I passed by the Piazza
Judea, where their seraglio begins; for, being environed
with walls, they are looked up every night. In this place
remains yet part of a stately fabric, which my Jew told me
had been a palace of theirs for the ambassador of their
nation, when their country was subject to the Romans.
Being led through the Synagogue into a private house, |
found a world of people in a chamber: by and bye came an
old man, who prepared and laid in order divers instruments
brought by a little child of about seven years old in a box.
These the man laid in a silver basin; the knife was much
like a short razor to shut into the half. Then they burnt
some incense in a censer, which perfumed the room all the
while the ceremony was performing. In the basin was a
little cap made of white paper like a capuchin’s hood, not
bigger than the finger: also a paper of a red astringent
powder, I suppose of bole; a small instrument of silver,
cleft in the middle at one end, to take up the prepuce
withal; a fine linen cloth wrapped up. These being all in
order, the women brought the infant swaddled, out of
another chamber, and delivered it to the Rabbi, who carried
and presented it before an altar, or cupboard, dressed up,
on which lay the five Books of Moses, and the Command-
ments, a little unrolled. Before this, with profound rever-
ence, and mumbling a few words, he waved the child to
and fro awhile; then he delivered it to another Rabbi, who
sate all this time upon a table. Whilst the ceremony
was performing, all the company fell singing a Hebrew
hymn, in a barbarous tone, waving themselves to and

1645] John Evelyn ra7

fro; a ceremony they observe in all their devotions.—
The Jews in Rome all wear yellow hats, live only upon
brokage and usury, very poor and despicable, beyond
what they are in other territories of Princes where they
are permitted.

18th January. I went to see the Pope’s Palace, the
Vatican, where he for the most part keeps his Court. It
was first built by Pope Simachus, and since augmented to
a vast pile of building by his successors. That part of it
added by Sextus V. is most magnificent. This leads us
into divers terraces arched sub dio, painted by Raphael
with the histories of the Bible, so esteemed, that artists
come from all parts of Europe to make their studies from
these designs. The foliage and grotesque about some of
the compartments are admirable.1 In another room are
represented at large, maps and plots of most countries in
the world, in vast tables, with brief descriptions. The
stairs which ascend out of St. Peter’s portico into the first
hall, are rarely contrived for ease; these lead into the hall
of Gregory XIII., the walls whereof, half way to the roof,
are incrusted with most precious marbles of various colours
and works. So is also the pavement inlaid work; but what
exceeds description is, the volta, or roof itself, which is
so exquisitely painted, that it is almost impossible for the
skilfullest eye to discern whether it be the work of the pencil
upon a flat, or of a tool cut deep in stone. The Rota
dentata, in this admirable perspective, on the left hand as
one goes out, the Stella, &c., are things of art incom-
parable. Certainly this is one of the most superb and
royal apartments in the world, much too beautiful for a
guard of gigantic Switzers, who do nothing but drink and
play at cards in it. Going up these stairs is a painting of
St. Peter, walking on the sea towards our Saviour.

Out of this I went into another hall, just before the
chapel, called the Sala del Conclave, full of admirable
paintings; amongst others is the Assassination of Coligni,
the great [Protestant] French Admiral, murdered by the
Duke of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of
Henry IV. with Queen Margaret; under it is written,
‘* Coligni et sociorum cedes:’’ on the other side, ‘* Rex
Coligi necem probat.’”’

1 Painted from the designs of Raphael, by John of Udine, his
scholar.

138 Diary of [Rome

There is another very large picture, under which is
inscribed :

Alexander Papa III., Frederici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum
fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs; cognitum et A senatu perhonorificé
susceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali pralio victo captog;
Fredericus, pace facta, supplex adorat; fidem et obedientiam polli-
citus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Reip. beneficio restituta
MCLXXVIII.2

This inscription I the rather took notice of, because
Urban VIII. had caused it to be blotted out during the
difference between him and that State; but it was now
restored and refreshed by his successor, to the great
honour of the Venetians. The Battle of Lepanto is another
fair piece here.

Now we came into the Pope’s chapel, so much celebrated
for the Last Judgment painted by M. Angelo Buonarotti.
It is a painting in fresco, upon a dead wall at the upper
end of the chapel, just over the high altar, of a vast design
and miraculous fancy, considering the multitude of naked
figures and variety of posture. The roof also is full of
rare work. Hence, we went into the sacristia, where were
showed all the most precious vestments, copes, and furni-
ture of the chapel. One priestly cope, with the whole
suite, had been sent from one of our English Henrys, and
is shown for a great rarity. There were divers of the
Pope’s pantoufles that are kissed on his foot, having rich
jewels embroidered on the instep, covered with crimson
velvet; also his tiara, or triple crown, divers mitres,
crosiers, &c., all bestudded with precious stones, gold, and
pearl, to a very great value; a very large cross, carved
(as they affirm) out of the holy wood itself; numerous
utensils of crystal, gold, agate, amber, and other costly
materials for the altar.

We then went into those chambers painted with the
Histories of the burning of Rome, quenched by the proces-
sion of a Crucifix; the victory of Constantine over Max-
entius; St. Peter’s delivery out of Prison; all by Julio —

1 Pope Alexander IIJ., flying from the wrath and violence of the
Emperor Frederick 1., took shelter at Venice, where he was acknow- ©
ledged, and most honourably received by the Senate. The Emperor’s
son, Otho, being conquered and taken in a naval battle, the Emperor,
having made peace, became a suppliant to the Pope, promising fealty ©

and obedience. Thus his dignity was restored to the Pontiff, by the
aid of the Republic of Venice, MCLXxvill.

1645) John Evelyn 139

Romano, and are therefore called the Painters’ Academy,
because you always find some young men or other design-
ing from them: a civility which is not refused in Italy,
where any rare pieces of the old and best masters are
extant, and which is the occasion of breeding up many
excellent men in that profession.

The Sala Clementina’s Suffito is painted by Cherubin
Alberti, with an ample landscape of Paul Bril’s.

We were then conducted into a new gallery whose sides
were painted with views of the most famous places, towns,
and territories in Italy, rarely done, and upon the roof the
chief Acts of the Roman Church since St. Peter’s pretended
See there. It is doubtless one of the most magnificent
galleries in Europe.—Out of this we came into the Con-
sistory, a noble room, the volto painted in grotesque, as I
remember. At the upper end, is an elevated throne and a
baldacchino, or canopy of state, for his Holiness, over it.

From thence, through a very long gallery (longer, I
think, than the French Kings at the Louvre), but only of
bare walls, we were brought into the Vatican Library.
This passage was now full of poor people, to each of whom,
in his passage to St. Peter’s, the Pope gave a mezzo grosse.
I believe they were in number near 1500 or 2000 persons.

This library is the most nobly built, furnished, and
beautified of any in the world; ample, stately, light, and
cheerful, looking into a most pleasant garden. The walls
and roof are painted, not with antiques and grotesques,
like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, dia-
grams, and the like learned inventions, found out by the
wit and industry of famous men, of which there are now
whole volumes extant. There were likewise the effigies
of the most illustrious men of letters and fathers of the
church, with divers noble statues, in white marble, at the
entrance, viz., Hippolytus and Aristides. The General
Councils are painted on the side-walls. As to the ranging
of the books, they are all shut up in presses of wainscot,
and not exposed on shelves to the open air, nor are the
most precious mixed amongst the more ordinary, which
are showed to the curious only; such are those two Virgils
written On parchment, of more than a thousand years old;
the like, a Terence; the Acts of the Apostles in golden
capital letters; Petrarch’s Epigrams, written with his own
hand; also a Hebrew parchment, made up in the ancient

140 Diary of [Rome

manner, from whence they were first called Volumina, with
the Cornua; but what we English do much inquire after,
the book which our Henry VIII. writ against Luther.!

The largest room is 100 paces long; at the end is the
gallery of printed books; then the gallery of the Duke of
Urban’s library, in which are MSS. of remarkable minia-
ture, and divers China, Mexican, Samaritan, Abyssinian,
and other oriental books. |

In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all
the books taken from Heidelberg, of which the learned
Gruter, and other great scholars, had been keepers. These
walls and volta are painted with representations of the
machines invented by Domenico Fontana for erection of
the obelisks; and the true design of Mahomet’s sepulchre
at Mecca.

Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during
a vacancy, the Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed
upon a new election; the whole manner whereof was
described to us.

Hence we went into the Pope’s Armoury, under the
Library. Over the door is this inscription :

URBANUS VIII. LITTERIS ARMA, ARMA LITTERIS.

I hardly believe any Prince in Europe is able to show a
more completely furnished library of Mars, for the quality
and quantity, which is 40,000 complete for horse and foot,
and neatly kept. Out of this we passed again by the long
gallery, and at the lower end of it down a very large pair of
stairs, round, without any steps as usually, but descending
with an evenness so ample and easy, that a horse-litter, or
coach, may with ease be drawn up; the sides of the vacuity
are set with columns: those at Amboise, on the Loire, in
France, are something of this invention, but nothing so
spruce. By these, we descended into the Vatican gardens,
called Belvedere, where entering first into a kind of court,

1 This very book, by one of those curious chances that occasion-
ally happen, found its way into England some forty years ago, and
was seen by the Editor of the early edition of this Diary. It may be
worth remarking that wherever, in the course of it, the title of
Defender of the Faith was subjoined to the name of Henry, the Pope
had drawn his pen through the title. The name of the King occurred
in his own handwriting both at the beginning and end; and on the
binding were the Royal Arms. Its possessor had purchased it in
Italy for a few shillings from an old book-stall.

1645) John Evelyn 141

we were showed those incomparable statues (so famed by
Pliny and others) of Laocoon with his three sons embraced
by a huge serpent, all of one entire Parian stone, very
white and perfect, somewhat bigger than the life, the work
of those three celebrated sculptors, Agesandrus, Polydorus,
and Artemidorus, Rhodians; it was found amongst the
ruins of Titus’s Baths, and placed here. Pliny says this
statue is to be esteemed before alJ pictures and statues in
the world; and I am of his opinion, for I never beheld
anything of art approach it. Here are also those two
famous images of Nilus with the Children playing about
him, and that of Tyber; Romulus and Remus with the
Wolf; the dying Cleopatra; the Venus and Cupid, rare
pieces ; the Mercury; Cybel; Hercules; Apollo; Antinous:
most of which are, for defence against the weather, shut
up in niches with wainscot doors. We were likewise
showed the relics of the Hadrian Moles, viz., the Pine, a
vast piece of metal which stood on the summit of that mau-
soleum; also a peacock of copper, supposed to have been
part of Scipio’s monument.

In the garden without this (which contains a vast circuit
of ground) are many stately fountains, especially two cast-
ing water into antique lavers, brought from Titus’s Baths ;
some fair grots and water-works, that noble cascade where
the ship dances, with divers other pleasant inventions,
walks, terraces, meanders, fruit-trees, and a most goodly
prospect over the greatest part of the city. One fountain
under the gate I must not omit, consisting of three jettos
of water gushing out of the mouths or probosces of bees
(the arms of the late Pope), because of the inscription :

Quid miraris Apem, quz mel de floribus haurit?
Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam.

23rd January. We went without the walls of the city to
visit St. Paul’s, to which place it is said the Apostle bore
his own head after Nero had caused it to be cut off. The
church was founded by the great Constantine; the main
roof is supported by 100 vast columns of marble, and the
mosaic work of the great arch is wrought with a very
ancient story A°® 440; as is likewise that of the faccidta.
The gates are brass, made at Constantinople in 1070, as
you may read by those Greek verses engraven on them.
The church is near 500 feet long and 258 in breadth, and

142 Diary of [Rome

has five great aisles joined to it, on the basis of one of
whose columns is this odd title: ‘‘ Fl. Eugenius Asellus
C. C. Pref. Urbis V. S. I. reparavit.’’ Here they showed
us that miraculous Crucifix which they say spake to St.
Bridget: and, just before the Ciborio, stand two excellent
statues. Here are buried part of the bodies of St. Paul
and St. Peter. The pavement is richly interwoven with
precious oriental marbles about the high altar, where are
also four excellent paintings, whereof one, representing the
stoning of St. Stephen, is by the hand of a Bolognian lady,
named Lavinia. The tabernacle on this altar is of excel-
lent architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacra-
mento are of Lanfranco. Divers other relics there be also
in this venerable church, as a part of St. Anna; the head
of the Woman of Samaria; the chain which bound St.
Paul, and the Eculeus used in tormenting the primitive |
Christians. The church stands in the Via Ositensis, about
a mile from the walls of the city, separated from many
buildings near it except the Trie Fontana, to which (leaving
our coach) we walked, going over the mountain or little
rising, upon which story says a hundred seventy and four |
thousand Christians had been martyred by Maximianus, |
Dioclesian, and other bloody tyrants. On this stand St.
Vincent’s and St. Anastasius; likewise the Church of St.
Maria Scala del Cielo, in whose Tribuna is a very fair
mosaic work. The Church of the Trie Fontana (as they
are called) is perfectly well built, though but small (where-
as that of St. Paul is but Gothic), having a noble cupola in
the middle; in this they show the pillar to which St. Paul
was bound, when his head was cut off, and from whence
it made three prodigious leaps, where there immediately
broke out the three remaining fountains, which give de-
nomination to this church. The waters are reported to be
medicinal; over each is erected an altar and a chained
ladle, for better tasting of the waters. That most excellent
picture of St. Peter’s Crucifixion is of Guido.

25th January. I went again to the Palazzo Farnese, to
see some certain statues and antiquities which, by reason
of the Major-Domo not being within, I could not formerly
obtain. In the hall stands that triumphant Colosse of one
of the family, upon three figures, a modern, but rare piece.
About it stood some Gladiators; and, at the entrance into
one of the first chambers, are two cumbent figures of Age

1645) John Evelyn 143

and Youth, brought hither from St. Peter’s to make room
for the Longinus under the cupola. Here was the statue
of a ram running at a man on horseback, a most incom-
parable expression of Fury, cut in stone; and a table of
pietra~-commessa, very curious. The next chamber was all
painted a fresco, by a rare hand, as was the carving in
wood of the ceiling, which, as I remember, was in cedar,
as the Italian mode is, and not poor plaster, as ours are;
some of them most richly gilt. In a third room, stood the
famous Venus, and the child Hercules strangling a serpent,
of Corinthian brass, antique, on a very curious basso-
relievo; the sacrifice to Priapus; the Egyptian Isis, in the
hard, black ophite stone, taken out of the Pantheon, greatly
celebrated by the antiquaries : likewise two tables of brass,
containing divers old Roman laws. At another side of this
chamber, was the statue of a wounded Amazon falling from
her horse, worthy the name of the excellent sculptor, who-
ever the artist was. Near this was a bass-relievo of a
Bacchanalia, with a most curious Silenus. The fourth
room was totally environed with statues; especially observ-
able was that so renowned piece of a Venus looking back-
ward over her shoulder, and divers other naked figures, by
the old Greek masters. Over the doors are two Venuses,
one of them looking on her face in a glass, by M. Angelo;
the other is painted’ by Caracci. I never saw finer faces,
especially that under the mask, whose beauty and art are
not to be described by words. The next chamber is also
full of statues; most of them the heads of Philosophers,
very antique. One of the Ceesars and another of Hannibal
cost 1200 crowns. Now | had a second view of that never-
to-be-sufficiently-admired gallery, painted in deep relievo,
the work of ten years’ study, for a trifling reward. In the
wardrobe above they showed us fine wrought plate, porce-
lain, mazers of beaten and solid gold, set with diamonds,
rubies, and emeralds; a treasure, especially the work-
manship considered, of inestimable value. This is all the
Duke of Parma’s. Nothing seemed to be more curious
and rare in its kind than the complete service of the purest
crystal, for the altar of the chapel, the very bell, cover of a
book, sprinkler, &c., were all of the rock, incomparably
sculptured, with the holy story in deep Levati; thus was
also wrought the crucifix, chalice, vases, flower-pots, the
largest and purest crystal that my eyes ever beheld. Truly

144 Diary of (Rome

1 looked on this as one of the greatest curiosities I had
seen in Rome. In another part were presses furnished
with antique arms, German clocks, perpetual motions,
watches, and curiosities of Indian works. A very ancient
picture of Pope Eugenius; a St. Bernard; and a head of
marble found long since, supposed to be a true portrait of
our Blessed Saviour’s face.

Hence, we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and
countryman of ours, who had some intendency in an Hos-
pital built on the Via Triumphalis, called Christ’s Hospital,
which he showed us. The infirmatory, where the sick lay,
was paved with various coloured marbles, and the walls
hung with noble pieces; the beds are very fair; in the
middle is a stately cupola, under which is an altar decked
with divers marble statues, all in sight of the sick, who may
both see and hear mass, as they lie in their beds. The
organs are very fine, and frequently played on to recreate
the people in pain. To this joins an apartment destined
for the orphans; and there is a school: the children wear
blue, like ours in London, at an hospital of the same appel-
lation. Here are forty nurses, who give suck to such
children as are accidentally found exposed and abandoned.
In another quarter, are children of a bigger growth, 450 in
number, who are taught letters. In another, soo girls,
under the tuition of divers religious matrons, in a monas-
tery, as it were, by itself. I was assured there were at
least 2000 more maintained in other places. I think one
apartment had in it near 1000 beds; these are in a very
long room, having an inner passage for those who attend,
with as much care, sweetness, and conveniency as can be
imagined, the Italians being generally very neat. Under
the portico, the sick may walk out and take the air. Op-
posite to this, are other chambers for such as are sick o
maladies of a more rare and difficult cure, and they hav
rooms apart. At the end of the Iong corridor is an apothe
cary’s shop, fair and very well stored; near which are
chambers for persons of better quality, who are yet neces
sitous. Whatever the poor bring is, at their coming in
delivered to a treasurer, who makes an inventory, and i
accountable to them, or their representatives if they die. —

To this building joins the house of the commendator
who, with his officers attending the sick, make up ninet
persons; besides a convent and an ample church for th

1645) John Evelyn 145

friars and priests who daily attend. The church is ex-
tremely neat, and the sacristia is very rich. Indeed it is
altogether one of the most pious and worthy foundations
I ever saw. Nor is the benefit small which divers young
physicians and chirurgeons reap by the experience they
learn here amongst the sick, to whom those students have
free access. Hence, we ascended a very steep hill, near
the Port St. Pancratio, to that stately fountain called Acqua
Paula, being the aqueduct which Augustus had brought to
Rome, now re-edified by Paulus V.; a rare piece of archi-
tecture, and which serves the city after a journey of thirty-
five miles, here pouring itself into divers ample lavers, out
of the mouths of swans and dragons, the arms of this Pope.
Situate on a very high mount, it makes a most glorious
show to the city, especially when the sun darts on the
water as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on it are:

Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquaductus ab Augusto
Cesare extructos, evi longinqu4 vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem
formam restituit anno salutis M.D.CIX. Pont. V.

And, towards the fields:

Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu jena
simi temporis injuriA pené diruto, sublimiorem

* * * + * *

{One or more leaves are here wanting in Evelyn’s MS., descrip-
tive of other parts of Rome, and of his leaving the City.]

Thence to Velletri, a town heretofore of the Volsci, where
is a public and fair statue of P. Urban VIII., in brass, and
a stately fountain in the street. Here we lay, and drank
excellent wine.

28th January. We dined at Sermonetta, descending all
this morning down a stony mountain, unpleasant, yet full
of olive-trees; and, anon, pass a tower built on a rock,
kept by a small guard against the banditti who infest these
parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord
Banbury and his company found to their cost a little before.
To this guard we gave some money, and so were suffered to
pass, which was still on the Appian to the Tres Taberne
(whither the brethren came from Rome to meet St. Paul,
Acts, c. 28); the ruins whereof are yet very fair, resem-
bling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as may be
judged by the vast stones and fairness of the arched work.

I 46 Diary of [Piperno

The country environing this passage is hilly, but rich; on
the right hand stretches an ample plain, being the Pomptini
Campi. We reposed this night at Piperno, in the post-
house without the town; and here I was extremely troubled
with a sore hand, from a mischance at Rome, which now
began to fester, upon my base, unlucky, stiff-necked, trot-
ting, carrion mule; which are the most wretched beasts
in the world. In this town was the poet Virgil’s Camilla
born.

The day following, we were fain to hire a strong convoy
of about thirty firelocks, to guard us through the cork-
woods (much infested with the banditti) as far as Fossa
Nuova, where was the Forum Appii, and now stands a
church with a great monastery, the place where Thomas
Aquinas both studied and lies buried. Here we all alighted,
and were most courteously received by the Monks, who
showed us many relics of their learned Saint, and at the
high altar the print forsooth of the mule’s hoof which he
caused to kneel before the Host. The church is old, built
after the Gothic manner; but the place is very agreeably
melancholy. After this, pursuing the same noble [Appian]
way (which we had before left a little), we found it to—
stretch from Capua to Rome itself, and afterwards as far |
as Brundusium. It was built by that famous Consul,
twenty-five feet broad, every twelve feet something ascend-
ing for the ease and firmer footing of horse and man; both
the sides are also a little raised for those who travel on foot.
The whole is paved with a kind of beach-stone, and, as I
said, ever and anon adorned with some old ruin, sepulchre,
or broken statue. In one of these monuments Pancirollus —
tells us that, in the time of Paul III., there was found the
body of a young lady, swimming in a kind of bath of
precious oil, or liquor, fresh and entire as if she had been
living, neither her face discoloured, nor her hair disordered ;
at her feet burnt a lamp, which suddenly expired at the
opening of the vault; having flamed, as was computed,
now 1500 years, by the conjecture that she was Tulliola, the
daughter of Cicero, whose body was thus found, and as
the inscription testified. We dined this day at Terracina,
heretofore the famous Anxur, which stands upon a very
eminent promontory, the Cercean by name. Whilst meat
was preparing, I went up into the town, and viewed the
fair remainders of Jupiter’s Temple, now converted into a

1645) John Evelyn 147

church, adorned with most stately columns; its architecture
has been excellent, as may be deduced from the goodly
cornices, mouldings, and huge white marbles of which it is
built. Before the portico stands a pillar thus inscribed :

Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta
Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco ;

for, it seems, Theodoric drained their marches.
On another more ancient:

Imp. Cesar Divi Nerve Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicus
Dacicus. Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xvi. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p.p. xvi.
Silices sud pecunia stravit.

Meaning, doubtless, some part of the Via Appia. Then:

Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Prefect. Classis.—
Ti. Julius. T. Fab. optatus u. vir.

Here is likewise a Columna Milliaria, with something
engraven on it, but I could not stay to consider it. Coming
down again, I went towards the sea-side to contemplate
that stupendous strange rock and promontory, cleft by
hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within this is
the Cercean Cave, which | went into a good way; it makes
a dreadful noise, by reason of the roaring and impetuous
waves continually assaulting the beach, and that in an un-
usual manner. At the top, at an excessive height, stands
an old and very great castle. We arrived this night at
Fondi, a most dangerous passage for robbing; and so we
passed by Galba’s villa, and anon entered the kingdom of
Naples, where, at the gate, this epigraph saluted us: ‘‘ Hos-
pes, hic sunt fines Regni Neapolitani; si amicus advenis,
pacate omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges.”’
The Via Appia is here a noble prospect; having before
considered how it was carried through vast mountains of
rocks for many miles, by most stupendous labour: here it
is infinitely pleasant, beset with sepulchres and antiquities,
full of sweet shrubs in the environing hedges. At Fondi,
we had oranges and citrons for nothing, the trees growing
in every corner, charged with fruit.

29th January. We descried Mount Cecubus, famous for
the generous wine it heretofore produced, and so rid onward
the Appian Way, beset with myrtles, lentiscuses, bays,
pomegranates, and whole groves of orange-trees, and most

148 Diary of [Formiana

delicious shrubs, till we came to Formiana [Formiz], where
they showed us Cicero’s Tomb, standing in an olive grove,
now a rude heap of stones without form or beauty; for here
that incomparable orator was murdered. I shall never for-
get how exceedingly I was delighted with the sweetness of
this passage, the sepulchre mixed amongst all sorts of
verdure; besides being now come within sight of the noble |
city, Cajeta [Gaieta], which gives a surprising prospect —
along the Tyrrhene Sea, in manner of a theatre: and here
we beheld that strangely cleft rock, a frightful spectacle,
which they say happened upon the passion of our Blessed
Saviour; but the haste of our procaccio did not suffer us to
dwell so long on these objects and the many antiquities of
this town as we desired.

At Formi, we saw Cicero’s grot, dining at Mola, and
passing Sinuessa, Garigliano (once the city Mintern), and
beheld the ruins of that vast amphitheatre and aqueduct
yet standing; the river Liris, which bounded the old La-
tium, Falernus, or Mons Massacus, celebrated for its wine,
now named Garo; and this night we lodged at a little
village, called St. Agatha, in the Falernian Fields, near to
Aurunca and Sessa. |

The next day, having passed [the river] Vulturnus, we —
come by the Torre di Francolisi, where Hannibal, in danger
from Fabius Maximus, escaped by debauching his enemies ;
and so at last we entered the most pleasant plains of Cam-
pania, now called Terra di Lavoro; in very truth, I think,
the most fertile spot that ever the sun shone upon. Here
we saw the slender ruins of the once mighty Capua, contend-
ing at once both with Rome and Carthage, for splendour
and empire, now nothing but a heap of rubbish, except
showing some vestige of its former magnificence in pieces
of temples, arches, theatres, columns, ports, vaults, colosses,
&c., confounded together by the barbarous Goths and
Longobards; there is, however, a new city, nearer to the
road by two miles, fairly raised out of these heaps. The
passage from this town to Naples (which is about ten or
twelve English post miles) is as straight as a line, of great
breadth, fuller of travellers than I remember any of our
greatest and most frequented roads near London; but, what
is extremely pleasing, is the great fertility of the fields,
planted with fruit-trees, whose boles are serpented with
excellent vines, and they so exuberant, that it is commonly

1645) John Evelyn 149

reported one vine will load five mules with its grapes.
What adds much to the pleasure of the sight is, that the
vines, climbing to the summit of the trees, reach in festoons
and fruitages from one tree to another, planted at exact
distances, forming a more delightful picture than painting
can describe. Here grow rice, canes for sugar, olives,
pomegranates, mulberries, citrons, oranges, figs, and other
sorts of rare fruits. About the middle of the way is the
town Aversa, whither came three or four coaches to meet
our lady-travellers, of whom we now took leave, having
been very merry by the way with them and the capitdno,
their gallant.

31st January. About noon, we entered the city of Naples,
alighting at the Three Kings, where we found the most
plentiful fare all the time we were in Naples. Provisions
are wonderfully cheap; we seldom sat down to fewer than
eighteen or twenty dishes of exquisite meat and fruits.

The morrow after our arrival, in the afternoon, we hired
a coach to carry us about the town. First, we went to the
castle of St. Elmo, built on a very high rock, whence we
had an entire prospect of the whole city, which lies in shape
of a theatre upon the sea-brink, with all the circumjacent
islands, as far as Capree, famous for the debauched re-
cesses of Tiberius. This fort is the bridle of the whole city,
and was well stored and garrisoned with native Spaniards.
The strangeness of the precipice and rareness of the pros-
pect of so many magnificent and stately palaces, churches,
and monasteries, with the Arsenal, the Mole, and Mount
Vesuvius in the distance, all in full command of the eye,
make it one of the richest landscapes in the world.

Hence, we descended to another strong castle, called 1!
Castello Nuovo, which protects the shore; but they would
by no entreaty permit us to go in; the outward defence
seems to consist but in four towers, very high, and an
exceeding deep graff, with thick walls. Opposite to this
is the tower of St. Vincent, which is also very strong.

Then we went to the very noble Palace of the Viceroy,
partly old, and part of a newer work; but we did not stay
long here. Towards the evening, we took the air upon the
Mole, a street on the rampart, or bank, raised in the sea
for security of their galleys in port, built as that of Genoa.
Here I observed a rich fountain in the middle of the piazza,
and adorned with divers rare statues of copper, represent-

150 Diary of (Naples

ing the Sirens, or Deities of the Parthenope, spouting large
streams of water into an ample shell, all of cast metal, and
of great cost. This stands at the entrance of the Mole,
where we met many of the nobility both on horseback and
in their coaches to take the fresco from the sea, as the
manner is, it being in the most advantageous quarter for
good air, delight and prospect. Here we saw divers goodly
horses who handsomely become their riders, the Neapolitan
gentlemen. This Mole is about 500 paces in length, and
paved with a square hewn stone. From the Mole, we
ascend to a church of great antiquity, formerly sacred to
Castor and Pollux, as the Greek letters carved on the
architrave and the busts of their two statues testify. It is
now converted into a stately oratory by the Theatines.

The Cathedral is a most magnificent pile, and except St.
Peter’s in Rome, Naples exceeds all cities for stately
churches and monasteries. We were told that this day the
blood of St. Januarius and his head should be exposed,
and so we found it, but obtained not to see the miracle of
the boiling of this blood. The next we went to see was
St. Peter’s, richly adorned, the chapel especially, where
that Apostle said mass, as is testified on the wall.

After dinner, we went to St. Dominic, where they showed
us the crucifix that is reported to have said these words to
St. Thomas, ‘‘ Bené de me scripsisti, Thoma.’’ Hence, to
the Padri Olivetani, famous for the monument of the learned
Alexander-ab-Alexandro.

We proceeded, the next day, to visit the church of Santa
Maria Maggiore, where we spent much time in surveying
the chapel of Joh. Jov. Gontanus, and in it the several and
excellent sentences and epitaphs on himself, wife, children,
and friends, full of rare wit, and worthy of recording, as
we find them in several writers. In the same chapel is
showed an arm of Titus Livius, with this epigraph: ‘‘ Titi
Livij brachium quod Anton. Panormita a Patavinis im-
petravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post annos héc in
loco ponendum curavit.’’

Climbing a steep hill, we came to the monastery and
Church of the Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly
prospect towards the sea and city, the one full of galleys
and ships, the other of stately palaces, churches, monas-
teries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows,
Mount Vesuvius smoking, the Promontory of Minerva and

1645] John Evelyn 151

Misenum, Capreez, Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipum, Puteoli,
and the rest, doubtless one of the most divertissant and
considerable vistas in the world. The church is most
elegantly built; the very pavements of the common cloister
being all laid with variously polished marbles, richly figured.
They showed us a massy cross of silver, much celebrated
for the workmansbip and carving, and said to have been
fourteen years in perfecting. The choir also is of rare
art; but above all to be admired, is the yet unfinished
church of the Jesuits, certainly, if accomplished, not to be
equalled in Europe. Hence, we passed by the Palazzo
Carafh, full of ancient and very noble statues: also the
Palace of the Orsini. The next day, we did little but visit
some friends, English merchants, resident for their nego-
tiation; only this morning at the Viceroy’s Cavalerizza I
saw the noblest horses that I had ever beheld, one of his
sons riding the menage with that address and dexterity as
1 had never seen anything approach it.

4th February. We were invited to the collection of
exotic rarities in the Museum of Ferdinando Imperati, a
Neapolitan nobleman, and one of the most observable
palaces in the city, the repository of incomparable rarities.
Amongst the natural herbals most remarkable was the
Byssus marina and Pinna marina; the male and female
chamelion; an Onocrotatus; an extraordinary great croco-
dile; some of the Orcades Anates, held here for a great
rarity; likewise a salamander; the male and female Manu-
cordiata, the male having a hollow in the back, in which it
is reported the female both lays and hatches her eggs; the
mandragoras, of both sexes; Papyrus, made of several
reeds, and some of silk; tables of the rinds of trees, written
with Japonic characters; another of the branches of palm;
many Indian fruits; a crystal that had a quantity of uncon-
gealed water within its cavity; a petrified fisher’s net;
divers sorts of tarantulas, being a monstrous spider, with
lark-like claws, and somewhat bigger.

5th. This day we beheld the Vice-king’s procession, which
was very splendid for the relics, banners, and music that
accompanied the Blessed Sacrament. The ceremony took
up most of the morning.

6th. We went by coach to take the air, and see the diver-
sions, or rather madness, of the Carnival; the courtesans
{who swarm in this city to the number, as we are told, of

152 Diary of [Vesuvins

30,000, registered and paying a tax to the State) flinging
eggs of sweet water into our coach, as we passed by the
houses and windows. Indeed, the town is so pestered with
these cattle, that there needs no small mortification to pre-
serve from their enchantment, whilst they display all their
natural and artificial beauty, play, sing, feign compliment,
and by a thousand studied devices seek to inveigle foolish
young men.

7th February. The next day, being Saturday, we went
four miles out of town on mules, to sce that famous volcano,
Mount Vesuvius. Here we pass a fair fountain, called
Labulla, which continually boils, supposed to proceed from
Vesuvius, and thence over a river and bridge, where on a
large upright stone, is engraven a notable inscription
relative to the memorable eruption in 1630.1

Approaching the hill, as we were able with our mules,
we alighted, crawling up the rest of the proclivity with
great difficulty, now with our feet, now with our hands, not
without many untoward slips which did much bruise us on
the various coloured cinders, with which the whole moun-
tain is covered, some like pitch, others full of perfect brim-
stone, others metallic, interspersed with innumerable
pumices (of all which I made a collection), we at the last
gained the summit of an extensive altitude. Turning our
faces towards Naples, it presents one of the goodliest pros-
pects in the world; all the Baiz, Cuma, Elysian Fields,
Capree, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly
city, with a great portion of the Tyrrhene Sea, offering
themselves to your view at once, and at so agreeable a
distance, as nothing can be more delightful. The mountain
consists of a double top, the one pointed very sharp, and
commonly appearing above any clouds, the other blunt.
Here, as we approached, we met many large gaping clefts
and chasms, out of which issued such sulphureous blasts
and smoke, that we durst not stand long near them. Having
gained the very summit, I laid myself down to look over
into that most frightful and terrible vorago, a stupendous
pit of near three miles in circuit, and half a mile in depth,
by a perpendicular hollow cliff (like that from the highest
part of Dover Castle), with now and then a craggy prom-
inency jetting out. The area at the bottom is plane, like
an even floor, which seems to be made by the wind circling

1 It may be seen at length in Wright’s Travels, and in Misson's
New Voyage to Italy, i. 431.

1645) John Evelyn 153

the ashes by its eddy blasts. In the middle and centre is a
hill, shaped like a great brown loaf, appearing to consist of
sulphureous matter, continually vomiting a foggy exhala-
tion, and ejecting huge stones with an impetuous noise and
roaring, like the report of many muskets discharging. This
horrid barathrum engaged our attention for some hours,
both for the strangeness of the spectacle, and the mention
which the old histories make of it, as one of the most
stupendous curiosities in nature, and which made the
learned and inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect
the causes, and to lose it in too desperate an approach. It
is likewise famous for the stratagem of the rebel, Spartacus,
who did so much mischief to the State, lurking amongst
and protected by, these horrid caverns, when it was more
accessible and less dangerous than it is now; but especially
notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in anno
1630, it burst out beyond what it had ever done in the
memory of history; throwing out huge stones and fiery
pumices in such quantity, as not only environed the whole
mountain, but totally buried and overwhelmed divers towns
and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more than a
hundred miles, and utterly devastating all those vineyards,
where formerly grew the most incomparable Greco; when,
bursting through the bowels of the earth, it absorbed the
very sea, and, with its whirling waters, drew in divers
galleys and other vessels to their destruction, as is faith-
fully recorded. We descended with more ease than we
climbed up, through a deep valley of pure ashes, which at the
late eruption was a flowing river of melted and burning brim-
stone, and so came to our mules at the foot of the mountain.

On Sunday, we with our guide visited the so much cele-
brated Baia, and natural rarities of the places adjacent.
Here we entered the mountain Pausilypus, at the left hand
of which they showed us Virgil’s sepulchre erected on a
steep rock, in form of a small rotunda or cupolated column,
but almost overgrown with bushes and wild bay trees. At
the entrance is this inscription :

Stanisi Cencovius.
1589.
Qui cineres? Tumuli hec vestigia, conditur olim
Ile héc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura Duces.
Can Ree MDLIII.'

1 Such igs the inscription, as copied by Evelyn; but as its sense is
not very clear, and the Diary contains instances of incorrectness in

154 Diary of [Lago d’Agnano

After we were advanced into this noble and altogether
wonderful crypt, consisting of a passage spacious enough
for two coaches to go abreast, cut through a rocky moun-
tain near three quarters of a mile (by the ancient Cimmerii
as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius, who em-
ployed a hundred thousand men on it), we came to the
midway, where there is a well bored through the diameter
of this vast mountain, which admits the light into a pretty
chapel, hewn out of the natural rock, wherein hang divers
lamps, perpetually burning. The way is paved under foot ;
but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so excessively
in this much-frequented passage, that we were forced at
mid-day to use atorch. At length, we were delivered from
the bowels of the earth into one of the most delicious plains
in the world: the oranges, lemons, pomegranates, and
other fruits, blushing yet on the perpetually green trees ;
for the summer is here eternal, caused by the natural and
adventitious heat of the earth, warmed through the sub-
terranean fires, as was shown us by our guide, who
alighted, and, cutting up a turf with his knife, and deiiver-
ing it to me, it was so hot, I was hardly able to hold it in |
my hands. This mountain is exceedingly fruitful in vines,
and exotics grow readily.

We now came to a lake of about two miles in circum-
ference, environed with hills; the water of it is fresh and
sweet on the surface, but salt at bottom; some mineral salt
conjectured to be the cause, and it is reported of that pro-
funditude in the middle that it is bottomless. The people
call it Lago d’Agnano, from the multitude of serpents
which, involved together about the spring, fall down from
the cliffy hills into it. It has no fish, nor will any live in
it. We tried the old experiment on a dog in the Grotto
del Cane, or Charon’s Cave; it is not above three or four
paces deep, and about the height of a man, nor very broad.
Whatever having life enters it, presently expires. Of this
we made trial with two dogs, one of which we bound to a
short pole to guide him the more directly into the further
part of the den, where he was no sooner entered, but—

transcribing, it may be desirable to subjoin the distich said (by
Keysler in his Travels, ii. 433) to be the only one in the whole
mausoleum :

Que cineris tumulo hec vestigia? conditur olim
Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces.

1645] John Evelyn 155

without the least noise, or so much as a struggle, except
that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue, his eyes
being fixed :—we drew him out dead to all appearance ; but
immediately plunging him into the adjoining lake, within
less than half an hour he recovered, and swimming to shore,
ran away from us. We tried the same on another dog,
without the application of the water, and left him quite
dead. The experiment has been made on men, as on that
poor creature whom Peter of Toledo caused to go in; like-
wise on some Turkish slaves; two soldiers, and other fool-
hardy persons, who all perished, and could never be
recovered by the water of the lake, as are dogs; for which
many learned reasons have been offered, as Simon Majolus
in his book of the Canicular-days has mentioned, colloq.
15. And certainly the most likely is, the effect of those
hot and dry vapours which ascend out of the earth, and
are condensed by the ambient cold, as appears by their
converting into crystalline drops on the top, whilst at the
bottom it is so excessively hot, that a torch being extin-
guished near it, and lifted a little distance, was suddenly
re-lighted.

Near to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain,
of the nature of sudatories, in certain chambers partitioned
with stone for the sick to sweat in, the vapours here being
exceedingly hot, and of admirable success in the gout, and
other cold distempers of the nerves. Hence, we climbed
up a hill, the very highway in several places even smoking
with heat like a furnace. The mountains were by the
Greeks called Leucogzi, and the fields Phlegreean. Hercules
here vanquished the Giants, assisted with lightning. We
now came to the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a valley
near a quarter of a mile in breadth, the margent environed
with steep cliffs, out of whose sides and foot break forth
fire and smoke in abundance, making a noise like a tempest
of water, and sometimes discharging in loud reports, like
so many guns. The heat of this place is wonderful, the
earth itself being almost unsufferable, and which the sub-
terranean fires have made so hollow, by having wasted the
matter for so many years, that it sounds like a drum to
those who walk upon it; and the water thus struggling
with those fires, bubbles and spouts aloft into the air. The
mouths of these spiracles are bestrewed with variously
coloured cinders, which rise with the vapour, as do many

] 220 G

156 Diary of [Pozzole

coloured stones, according to the quality of the combustible
matter, insomuch as it is no little adventure to approach
them. They are, however, daily frequented both by sick
and well; the former receiving the fumes, have been re-
covered of diseases esteemed incurable. Here we found
a great deal of sulphur made, which they refine in certain
houses near the place, casting it into canes, to a very great
value. Near this we were showed a hill of alum, where is
one of the best mineries, yielding a considerable revenue.
Some flowers of brass are found here; but I could not but
smile at those who persuade themselves that here are the
gates of purgatory (for which it may be they have erected,
very near it, a convent, and named it St. Januarius), re-
porting to have often heard screeches and horrible lamenta-
tions proceeding from these caverns and volcanoes; with
other legends of birds that are never seen, save on Sundays,
which cast themselves into the lake at night, appearing no
more all the week after.

We now approached the ruins of a very stately temple,
or theatre, of 172 feet in length, and about 8o in breadth,
thrown down by an earthquake, not long since; it was
consecrated to Vulcan, and under the ground are many
strange meanders; from which it is named the Labyrinth ;
this place is so haunted with bats, that their perpetual
fluttering endangered the putting-out our links.

Hence, we passed again those boiling and smoking hills,
till we came to Pozzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli, the
landing-place of St. Paul, when he came into Italy, after the
tempest described in the Acts of the Apostles. Here we
made a good dinner, and bought divers medals, antiquities,
and other curiosities, of the country-people, who daily find
such things amongst the very old ruins of those places. This
town was formerly a Greek colony, built by the Samians,
a reasonable commodious port, and full of observable anti-
quities. We saw the ruins of Neptune’s Temple, to whom
this place was sacred, and near it the stately Palace and
gardens of Peter de Toledo, formerly mentioned. After-
wards, we visited that admirably built Temple of Augustus,
seeming to have been hewn out of an entire rock, though
indeed consisting of several square stones. The inscription
remains thus: ‘‘ L. Calphurnius L. F. Templum Augusto —
cum ornamentis D.D. ;’’ and under it, ‘‘ L. Coccejus L. C.
Postumi L. Auctus Architectus.’’ It is now converted into

1645] John Evelyn 157

a church, in which they showed us huge bones, which they
affirm to have been of some giant.

We went to see the ruins of the old haven, so compact
with that bituminous sand in which the materials are laid,
as the like is hardly to be found, though all this has not
been sufficient to protect it from the fatal concussions of
several earthquakes (frequent here) which have almost de-
molished it, thirteen vast piles of marble only remaining; a
stupendous work in the bosom of Neptune! To this joins
the bridge of Caligula, by which (having now embarked
ourselves) we sailed to the pleasant Baia, almost four miles
in length, all which way that proud Emperor would pass in
triumph. Here we rowed along towards a villa of the
orator Cicero’s, where we were showed the ruins of his
Academy; and, at the foot of a rock, his Baths, the waters
reciprocating their tides with the neighbouring sea. Hard
at hand, rises Mount Gaurus, being, as I conceived, nothing
save a heap of pumices, which here float in abundance on
the sea, exhausted of all inflammable matter by the fire,
which renders them light and porous, so as the beds of nitre,
which lie deep under them, having taken fire, do easily eject
them. They dig much for fancied treasure said to be con-
cealed about this place. From hence, we coasted near the
ruins of Portus Julius, where we might see divers stately
palaces that had been swallowed up by the sea after earth-
quakes. Coming to shore, we pass by the Lucrine Lake,
so famous heretofore for its delicious oysters, now pro-
ducing few or none, being divided from the sea by a bank
of incredible labour, the supposed work of Hercules; it
is now half choked up with rubbish, and by part of the
new mountain, which rose partly out of it, and partly out
of the sea, and that in the space of one night and a day,
to a very great altitude, on the 29th September, 1538,
after many terrible earthquakes, which ruined divers places
thereabout, when at midnight the sea retiring near 200
paces, and yawning on the sudden, it continued to vomit
forth flames and fiery stones in such quantity, as produced
this whole mountain by their fall, making the inhabitants

f Pozzolo to leave their habitations, supposing the end
of the world had been come.

From the left part of this, we walked to the Lake
Avernus, of a round form, and totally environed with
mountains, This lake was feigned by the poet for the

7 58 Diary of (Cuma

gates of hell, by which Aineas made his descent, and where
he sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The waters are of a
remarkably black colour; but I tasted of them without
danger; hence, they feign that the river Styx has its
source. At one side, stand the handsome ruins of a Temple
dedicated to Apollo, or rather Pluto, but it is controverted. |
Opposite to this, having new lighted our torches, we enter ©
a vast cave, in which having gone about two hundred
paces, we pass a narrow entry which leads us into a room
of about ten paces long, proportionable broad and high;
the side walls and roof retain still the golden mosaic,
though now exceedingly decayed by time. Here is a short
cell or rather niche, cut out of the solid rock, somewhat
resembling a couch, in which they report that the Sibylla
lay, and uttered her Oracles; but it is supposed by most to
have been a bath only. This subterranean grot leads quite
through to Cuma, but is in some places obstructed by the
earth which has sunk in, so as we were constrained back
again, and to creep on our bellies, before we came to the
light. It is reported Nero had once resolved to cut a
channel for two great galleys that should have extended to
Ostia, 150 miles distant. The people now call it Licola.

From hence, we ascended to that most ancient city of
Italy, the renowned Cuma, built by the Grecians. It stands
on a very eminent promontory, but is now a heap of ruins.
A little below, stands the Arco Felice, heretofore part of
Apollo’s Temple, with the foundations of divers goodly
buildings; amongst whose heaps are frequently found
statues and other antiquities, by such as dig for them.
Near this is the Lake Acherutia, and Acheron. Returning
to the shore, we came to the Bagni de Tritoli and Diana,
which are only long narrow passages cut through the main
rock, where the vapours ascend so hot, that entering with
the body erect you will even faint with excessive perspira
tion; but, stooping lower, as sudden a cold surprises.
These sudatories are much in request for many infirmities.
Now we entered the haven of the Bahizw, where once st
that famous town, so called from the companion of Ulysses
here buried; not without great reason celebrated for on
of the most delicious places that the sun shines on, accord
ing to that of Horace:

Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis prelucet amcenis.

1645] John Evelyn 159

Though, as to the stately fabrics, there now remain little
save the ruins, whereof the most entire is that of Diana’s
Temple, and another of Venus. Here were those famous
poles of lampreys that would come to hand when called
by name, as Martial tells us. On the summit of the rock
stands a strong castle garrisoned to protect the shore from
Turkish pirates. It was once the retiring place of Julius
Cesar.

Passing by the shore again, we entered Bauli, observ-
able from the monstrous murder of Nero committed on his
mother Agrippina. Her sepulchre was yet showed us in the
rock, which we entered, being covered with sundry heads
and figures of beasts. We saw there the roots of a tree
turned into stone, and are continually dropping.

Thus having viewed the foundations of the old Cim-
meria, the palaces of Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius,
and other villas and antiquities, we proceeded towards the
promontory of Misenus, renowned for the sepulchre of
Aineas’s Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now hardly
a ruin, said to have been built from this place to the
promontory of Minerva, fifty miles distant, now discon-
tinued and demolished by the frequent earthquakes. Here
was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Cesar died ;
and here runs the Aqueduct, thought to be dug by Nero,
a stupendous passage, heretofore nobly arched with
marble, as the ruins testify. Hence, we walked to those
receptacles of water called Piscina Mirabilis, being a vault
of 500 feet long, and twenty-two in breadth, the roof
propped up with four ranks of square pillars, twelve in a
row; the walls are brick, plastered over with such a com-
position as for strength and politure resembles white
marble. Tis conceived to have been built by Nero, as a
conservatory for fresh water; as were also the Centi Came-
relli, into which we were next led. All these crypta being
now almost sunk into the earth, show yet their former
amplitude and magnificence.

Returning towards the Baia, we again pass the Elysian
Fields, so celebrated by the poets, nor unworthily, for their
situation and verdure, being full of myrtles and sweet
shrubs, and having a most delightful prospect towards the
Tyrrhene Sea. Upon the verge of these remain the ruins
of the Mercato di Saboto, formerly a Circus; over the
arches stand divers urns, full of Roman ashes.

160 Diary of [Naples

Having well satisfied our curiosity among these antiqui-
ties, we retired to our felucca, which rowed us back again
towards Pozzolo, at the very place of St. Paul’s landing.
Keeping along the shore, they showed us a place where the
sea-water and sands did exceedingly boil. Thence, to the
island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph; and thus we leave
the Baia, so renowned for the sweet retirements of the |
most opulent and voluptuous Romans. ‘They certainly
were places of uncommon amenity, as their yet tempting
site, and other circumstances of natural curiosities, easily
invite me to believe, since there is not in the world so
many stupendous rarities to be met with, as in the circle
of a few miles which environ these blissful abodes.

8th February. Returned to Naples, we went to see the
Arsenal, well furnished with galleys and other vessels. The
city is crowded with inhabitants, gentlemen and merchants.
The government is held of the Pope by an annual tribute |
of 40,000 ducats and a white jennet; but the Spaniard |
trusts more to the power of those his natural subjects |
there; Apulia and Calabria yielding him near four millions |
of crowns yearly to maintain it. The country is divided
into thirteen Provinces, twenty Archbishops, and one hun-
dred and seven Bishops; the estates of the nobility, in
default of the male line, reverting to the King. Besides the
Vice-Roy, there is amongst the Chief Magistrates a High
Constable, Admiral, Chief Justice, Great Chamberlain, and
Chancellor, with a Secretary; these being prodigiously
avaricious, do wonderfully enrich themselves out of the
miserable people’s labour, silks, manna, sugar, oil, wine,
rice, sulphur, and alum; for with all these riches is this
delicious country blest. The manna falls at certain seasons
on the adjoining hills in form of a thick dew. The very
winter here is a summer, ever fruitful, so that in the middle
of February we had melons, cherries, apricots, and many
other sorts of fruit.

The building of the city is for the size the most magnifi-
cent of any in Europe, the streets exceeding large, well-
paved, having many vaults and conveyances under them
for the sulliage; which renders them very sweet and clean,
even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth more than
3000 churches and monasteries, and these the best built
and adorned of any in Italy. They greatly affect the
Spanish gravity in their habit; delight in good horses; the

1645] John Evelyn 161

streets are full of gallants on horseback, in coaches and
sedans, from hence brought first into England by Sir
Sanders Duncomb. The women are generally well-
featured, but excessively libidinous. The country people
so jovial and addicted to music, that the very husbandmen
almost universally play on the guitar, singing and com-
posing songs in praise of their sweethearts, and will com-
monly go to the field with their fiddle; they are merry,
witty, and genial; all which I much attribute to the
excellent quality of the air. They have a deadly hatred
to the French, so that some of our company were flouted
at for wearing red cloaks, as the mode then was.

This I made the non ultra of my travels, sufficiently
sated with rolling up and down, and resolving within
myself to be no longer an individuum vagum, if ever I got
home again; since, from the report of divers experienced
and curious persons, I had been assured there was little
more to be seen in the rest of the civil world, after Italy,
France, Flanders, and the Low Countries, but plain and
prodigious barbarism.

Thus, about the 7th of February,! we set out on our
return to Rome by the same way we came, not daring to
adventure by sea, as some of our company were inclined
to do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering on that coast;
nor made we any stay save at Albano, to view the cele-
brated place and sepulchre of the famous duellists who
decided the ancient quarrel between their imperious neigh-
bours with the loss of their lives. These brothers, the
Horatii and Curiatii, lie buried near the highway, under
two ancient pyramids of stone, now somewhat decayed and
overgrown with rubbish. We took the opportunity of tast-
ing the wine here, which is famous.

Being arrived at Rome on the 13th February, we were
again invited to Signor Angeloni’s study,2 where with
greater leisure we surveyed the rarities, as his cabinet and
medals especially, esteemed one of the best collections of
them in Europe. He also showed us two antique lamps,
one of them dedicated to Pallas, the other Laribus Sacru’,
as appeared by their inscriptions; some old Roman rings
and keys; the Egyptian Isis, cast in iron; sundry rare

1 Evelyn’s dates in this portion of his Diary appear to require occa-
sionally that qualification of ‘* about.”’
2 Ante, p. 110.

162 Diary of [Rome

basso-relievos; good pieces of painting, principally the
Christ of Correggio, with this painter’s own face admir-
ably done by himself; divers of both the Bassanos; a great
number of pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs; an
infinity of natural rarities, dried animals, Indian habits and
weapons, shells, &c. ; divers very antique statues of brass:
some lamps of so fine an earth that they resembled cor-
nelians, for transparency and colour; hinges of Corinthian
brass, and one great nail of the same metal found in the
ruins of Nero’s golden house.

In the afternoon, we ferried over to Transtevere, to the
Palace of Gichi,! to review the works of Raphael: and,
returning by St. Angelo, we saw the castle as far as was
permitted, and on the other side considered those admir-
able pilasters supposed to be of the foundation of the Pons
Sublicius, over which Horatius Cocles passed; here anchor
three or four water-mills, invented by Belizarius: and
thence had another sight of the Farnesi’s gardens,? and of
the terrace where is that admirable painting of Raphael,
being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought a fresco,
preserved in shutters of wainscot, as well it merits, being
certainly one of the most wonderful pieces of work in the
world.

14th February. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church built
and endowed by Cardinal Sfrondzti, who has erected a
stately altar near the body of this martyr, not long before
found in a vesture of silk girt about, a veil on her head,
and the bloody scars of three wounds on the neck; the
body is now in a silver chest, with her statue over it, in
snow-white marble. Other Saints lie here, decorated with
splendid ornaments, lamps, and incensories of great cost.
A little farther, they show us the Bath of St. Cecilia, to
which joins a Convent of Friars, where is the picture of
the Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns of the portico,
taken from the Baths of Septimius Severus.

1sth. Mr. Henshaw and I walked by the Tyber, and
visited the Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew’s), for-
merly cut in the shape of a ship, and wharfed with marble,
in which a lofty obelisk represented the mast. In the
Church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the Apostle. Here
are the ruins of the Temple of A‘sculapius, now converted —

1 Ante, p. 134, where he calls it the Palazzo di Ghisi.
3 Ante, p. 102.

1645) John Evelyn 163

into a stately hospital and a pretty convent. Opposite to it,
is the convent and church of St. John Calabita, where |
saw nothing remarkable, save an old broken altar. Here
was the Temple of Fortuna Virilis. Hence, we went to a
cupola, now a church, formerly dedicated to the sun.
Opposite to it, Santa Maria Schola Greca, where formerly
that tongue was taught; said to be the second church
dedicated in Rome to the Blessed Virgin; bearing also the
title of a Cardinalate. Behind this stands the great altar
of Hercules, much demolished. Near this, being at the
foot of Mount Aventine, are the Pope’s salt-houses.
Ascending the hill, we came to St. Sabina, an ancient
fabric, formerly sacred to Diana; there, in a chapel, is an
admirable picture, the work of Livia Fontana, set about
with columns of alabaster, and in the middle of the church
is a stone, cast, as they report, by the Devil at St. Dominic,
whilst he was at mass. Hence, we travelled towards a
heap of rubbish, called the Marmorata, on the bank of the
Tyber, a magazine of stones; and near which formerly
stood a triumphal arch, in honour of Horatius vanquishing
the Tuscans. The ruins of the bridge yet appear.

We were now got to Mons Testaceus, a heap of pot-
sherds, almost 200 feet high, thought to have been thrown
there and amassed by the subjects of the Commonwealth
bringing their tribute in earthen vessels, others (more -
probably) that it was a quarter of the town where potters
lived; at the summit Rome affords a noble prospect.
Before it is a spacious green, called the Hippodrome, where
Olympic games were celebrated, and the people mustered,
as in our London Artillery-Ground. Going hence, to the
old wall of the city, we much admired the pyramid, or
tomb, of Caius Cestius, of white marble, one of the most
ancient entire monuments, inserted in the wall, with this
inscription :

““C. Cestius L. F. Pob. Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr. pl.
VII. Vir. Epulonum.”’

And a little beneath:

““Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu.
Ponti P. F. Cla. Melz Heredis et Pothi L.”’

At the left hand, is the Port of St. Paul, once Terge-
mina, out of which the three Horatii passed to encounter
the Curiatii of Albano. Hence, bending homewards by St.

I 220 xq

164 Diary of [Rome

Saba, by Antoninus’s Baths (which we entered), is the
marble sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of the walls
and stately ruins show the enormous magnitude of these
baths. Passing by a corner of the Circus Maximus, we
viewed the place where stood the Septizonium, demolished
by Sextus V., for fear of its falling. Going by Mons
Ceelius, we beheld the devotions of St. Maria in Navicula,
so named from a ship carved out in white marble standing
on a pedestal before it, supposed to be the vow of one
escaped from shipwreck. It has a glorious front to the
street. Adjoining to this are the Hortii Mathei, which only
of all the places about the city I omitted visiting, though
I was told inferior to no garden in Rome for statues,
ancient monuments, aviaries, fountains, groves, and
especially a noble obelisk, and maintained in beauty at an
expense of 6000 crowns yearly, which, if not expended to
keep up its beauty, forfeits the possession of a greater
revenue to another family: so curious are they in their
villas and places of pleasure, even to excess.

The next day, we went to the once famous Circus Cara-
calla, in the midst of which there now lay prostrate one of
the most stately and ancient obelisks, full of Egyptian
hieroglyphics. It was broken into four pieces, when over-
thrown by the Barbarians, and would have been purchased
and transported into England by the magnificent Thomas
Earl of Arundel, could it have been well removed to the sea.
This is since set together and placed on the stupendous
artificial rock made by Innocent X., and serving for a foun-
tain in Piazza Navona, the work of Bernini, the Pope’s
architect. Near this is the sepulchre of Metellus, of massy
stone, pretty entire, now called Capo di Bove. Hence, to
a small oratory, named Domine, quo vadis; where the
tradition is, that our Blessed Saviour met St. Peter as he
fled, and turned him back again. |

St. Sebastian’s was the next, a mean structure (the
faccidta excepted), but is venerable, especially for the relics
and grots, in which lie the ashes of many holy men. Here
is kept the pontifical chair sprinkled with the blood of
Pope Stephen, to which great devotion is paid; also a well
full of martyrs’ bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebastian,
with one of the arrows (used in shooting him). These are ©
preserved by the Fulgentine Monks, who have here their
monastery, and who led us down into a grotto whicb they

£645) John Evelyn 165

affirmed went divers furlongs under ground; the sides, or
walls which we passed were filled with bones and dead
bodies, laid (as it were) on shelves, whereof some were
shut up with broad stones, and now and then a cross, or
a palm, cut in them. At the end of some of these subter-
ranean passages, were square rooms with altars in them,
said to have been the receptacles of primitive Christians, in
the times of persecution, nor seems it improbable.

17th February. I was invited, after dinner, to the
Academy of the Humorists, kept in a spacious hall belong-
ing to Signor Mancini, where the wits of the towns meet on
certain days to recite poems, and debate on several sub-
jects. The first that speaks is called the Lord, and stands
in an eminent place, and then the rest of the Virtuosi recite
in order. By these ingenious exercises, besides the learned
discourses, is the purity of the Italian tongue daily
improved. The room is hung round with devices, or
emblems, with mottoes under them. There are several
other Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical
titles. In this of the Humorists is the picture of Guarini,
the famous author of the Pastor Fido, once of this society.
The chief part of the day we spent in hearing the academic
exercises.

18th February. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere;
it has a fair front, and within are parts of the bodies of
St. Mark and Marcellino; on the Tribuna is a painting of
Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval; Baglioni, with some
other rare paintings. Coming round from hence, we passed
by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now totally
in ruins. In the afternoon, we visited the English Jesuits,
with whose Superior, P. Stafford, I was well acquainted ;
who received us courteously. They call their church and
college St. Thomasso de gli Inglesi, and is a seminary.
Amongst other trifles, they show the relics of Becket, their
reputed martyr. Of paintings there is one of Durante, and
many representing the sufferings of several of their society
executed in England, especially F. Campion.

In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. Trinita, I had
seen the feet of many pilgrims washed by Princes, Car-
dinals, and noble Romans, and served at table, as the ladies
and noble women did to other poor creatures in another
room. It was told us that no less than 444,000 men
had been thus treated in the Jubilee of 1600, and 25,500

|
|

166 Diary of [Rome

women, as appears by the register, which brings store of
money.

Returning homeward, I saw the Palace of Cardinal
Spada, where is a most magnificent hall painted by Daniel
de Volterra and Giulio Piacentino, who made the fret in
the little Court ; but the rare perspectives are of Bolognesi.
Near this is the Mont Pieta, instituted as a bank for the
poor, who, if the sum be not great, may have money upon
pawns. To this joins St. Martino, to which belongs a
Schola, or Corporation, that do many works of charity.
Hence, we came through Campo di Fiori, or herb-market,
in the midst of which is a fountain casting out water of a
dolphin, in copper; and in this piazza is common execution
done.

19th February. I went, this afternoon, to visit my Lord
John Somerset, brother to the Marquis of Worcester, who
had his apartment in Palazzo della Cancellaria, belonging
to Cardinal Francesco Barberini, as Vice-chancellor of the
Church of Rome, and Protector of the English. The build-
ing is of the famous architect, Bramante, of incrusted |
marble, with four ranks of noble lights; the principal
entrance is of Fontana’s design, and all marble; the portico
within sustained by massy columns; on the second peri-
style above, the chambers are rarely painted by Salviati
and Vasari; and so ample is this Palace, that six princes
with their families have been received in it at one time,
without incommoding each other.

20th. I went as was my usual custom and spent an
afternoon in Piazza Navona, as well as to see what anti-
quities I could purchase among the people who hold market
there for medals, pictures, and such curiosities, as to hear
the Mountebanks prate, and distribute their medicines.
This was formerly the Circus, or Agonales, dedicated to
sports and pastimes, and is now the greatest market of the
city, having three most noble fountains, and the stately
palaces of the Pamfilii, St. Giacomo de Spagnoli belonging
to that nation, to which add two convents for Friars and
Nuns, all Spanish. In this Church was erected a most
stately Catafalco, or Capella ardente, for the death of the
Queen of Spain; the church was hung with black, and
here I heard a Spanish sermon, or funebral oration, and
observed the statues, devices, and impresses hung about
the walls, the church and pyramid stuck with thousands o

1645) John Evelyn 167

lights and tapers, which made a glorious show. The statue
of St. James is by Sansovino; there are also some good
pictures of Caracci. The faccidta, too, is fair. Returning
home, | passed by the stumps of old Pasquin, at the corner
of a street, called Strada Pontificia ; here they still paste up
their drolling lampoons and scurrilous papers. This had
formerly been one of the best statues for workmanship and
art in all the city, as the remaining bust does still show.

21st. I walked in the morning up the hill towards the
Capuchins, where was then Cardinal Unufrio (brother to
the late Pope Urban VIII.) of the same order. He built
them a pretty church, full of rare pictures, and there lies
the body of St. Felix, that they say still does miracles.
The piece at the great altar is by Lanfranc. It is a lofty
edifice, with a beautiful avenue of trees, and in a good air.
After dinner, passing along the Strada del Corso, I ob-
served the column of Antoninus, passing under Arco Portu-
gallo, which is but a relic, heretofore erected in honour of
Domitian, called now Portugallo, from a Cardinal living.
near it. A little further on the right hand stands the
column in a small piazza, heretofore set up in honour of
M. Aurelius Antoninus, comprehending in a basso-relievo
of white marble his hostile acts against the Parthians,
Armenians, Germans, &c.; but it is now somewhat de-
cayed. On the summit has been placed the image of St.
Paul, of gilded copper. The pillar is said to be 161 feet
high, ascended by 207 steps, receiving light by fifty-six
apertures, without defacing the sculpture.

At a little distance, are the relics of the Emperor’s
Palace, the heads of whose pillars show them to have been
Corinthian.

Turning a little down, we came to another piazza, in
which stands a sumptuous vase of porphyry, and a fair
fountain; but the grace of this market, and indeed the
admiration of the whole world, is the Pantheon, now called
S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all the Gods,
and still remaining the most entire antiquity of the city.
It was built by Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the architrave
of the portico, sustained by thirteen pillars of Theban
marble, six feet thick, and fifty-three in height, of one
entire stone. In this porch is an old inscription.

Entering the church, we admire the fabric, wholly
covered with one cupola, seemingly suspended in the air,

168 Diary of [Rome

and receiving light by a hole in the middle only. The
structure is near as high as broad, viz. 144 feet, not count-
ing the thickness of the walls, which is twenty-two more to
the top, all of white marble; and, till Urban VIII. con-
verted part of the metal into ordnance of war against the
Duke of Parma, and part to make tke high altar in St.
Peter’s, it was all over covered with Corinthian brass,
ascending by forty degrees within the roof, or convex, of
the cupola, richly carved in octagons in the stone. There
are niches in the walls, in which stood heretofore the
statues of Jupiter and the other Gods and Goddesses ; for
here was that Venus which had hung in her ear the other
Union ! that Cleopatra was about to dissolve and drink up,
as she had done its fellow. There are several of these
niches, one above another, for the celestial, terrestrial, and
subterranean deities ; but the place is now converted into a
church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and all the Saints.
The pavement is excellent, and the vast folding-gates, of
Corinthian brass. In a word, it is of all the Roman antiqui-
ties the most worthy of notice. There lie interred in this
Temple the famous Raphael di Urbino, Perino del Vaga,
F, Zuccharo, and other painters.

Returning home, we pass by Cardinal! Cajetan’s Palace,
a noble piece of architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti,
which is the grace of the whole Corso.

22nd February. I went to Trinita del Monte, a mon- ©
astery of French, a noble church built by Louis XI. and |
Charles VIII., the chapels well painted, especially that by
Zaccara da Volterra, and the cloister with the miracles of
their St. Francis de Paulo, and the heads of the French
Kings. In the pergolo above, the walls are wrought with
excellent perspective, especially the St. John; there are the

1 And in the cup an union shall he throw,
Richer than that which four successive king's
In Denmark’s crown have worn.
Shakespeare, Hamlet, Act v. Sc. 2.

Theobald says, an union is the finest sort of pearl, and has its place
in all crowns and coronets. Steevens cites from Soliman and Persida
—‘‘ Ay, were it Cleopatra’s union ’’—adding this elucidation of the
term from P. Holland’s translation of Pliny’s Natural History :—
‘* And hereupon it is that our dainties and delicates here at Rome,
&c., call them unions, as a man would say singular and by them-
selves alone.’’ The Latin word for a single large pearl, it is hardly
necessary to add, is unio

1645] John Evelyn 169

Babylonish dials, invented by Kircher, the Jesuit. This
convent, so eminently situated on Mons Pincius, has the
entire prospect of Campus Martius, and has a fair garden
which joins to the Palazzo di Medici.

23rd February. I went to hear a sermon at St. Giacomo
de gli Incurabili, a fair church built by F. da Volterra, of
good architecture, and so is the hospital, where only des-
perate patients are brought. I passed the evening at St.
Maria del Popolo, heretofore Nero’s sepulchre, where his
ashes lay many years in a marble chest. To this church
joins the monastery of St. Augustine, which has pretty
gardens on Mons Pincius, and in the church is the miracu-
lous shrine of the Madonna which Pope Paul III. brought
barefooted to the place, supplicating for a victory over the
Turks in 1464. In a chapel of the Ghisi, are some rare
paintings of Raphael, and noble sculptures. Those two in
the choir are by Sansovino, and in the chapel de Cerasii, a
piece of Caravaggio. Here lie buried many great scholars
and artists, of which I took notice of this inscription :

Hospes, disce novum mortis genus; improba felis,
Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo.

Opposite to the faccidte of the church is a superb obelisk
full of hieroglyphics, the same that Sennesertus, King of
Egypt, dedicated to the Sun; brought to Rome by
Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and since placed
here by Pope Sextus V. It is eighty-eight feet high, of
one entire stone, and placed with great art and engines by
the famous Domenico Fontana.

Hence, turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo,
we came to Justinian’s gardens, near the Muro Torto, so
prominently built as threatening every moment to fall, yet
standing so for these thousand years. Under this is the
burying place for the common prostitutes, where they are
put into the ground, sans ceremonie.

24th. We walked to St. Roche’s and Martine’s, near
the brink of the Tyber, a large hospital for both sexes.
Hence, to the Mausoleum Augusti, betwixt the Tyber and
the Via Flaminia, now much ruined, which had formerly
contended for its sumptuous architecture. It was intended
as a cemetery for the Roman Emperors, had twelve ports,
and was covered with a cupola of white marble, environed
with stately trees and innumerable statues, all of it now

170 Diary of [Rome

converted into a garden. We passed the afternoon at the
Sapienza, a very stately building full of good marbles,
especially the portico, of admirable architecture. These are
properly the University Schools, where lectures are read
on Law, Medicine, and Anatomy, and students perform
their exercises.

Hence, we walked to the church of St. Andrea della
Valle, near the former Theatre of Pompey, and the famous
Piccolomini, but given to this church and the Order, who
are Theatins. The Barberini have in this place a chapel, of
curious incrusted marbles of several sorts, and rare paint-
ings. Under it is the place where St. Sebastian is said to
have been beaten with rods before he was shot with darts.
The cupola is painted by Lanfranc, an inestimable work,
and the whole fabric and monastery adjoining are admir-
able.

25th February. 1 was invited by a Dominican Friar,
whom we usually heard preach to a number of Jews, to be
godfather to a converted Turk and Jew. The ceremony
was performed in the Church of Santa Maria sopra la
Minerva, near the Capitol. They were clad in white; then
exorcised at their entering the church with abundance of
ceremonies, and, when led into the choir, were baptised
by a Bishop, in pontificalibus. The Turk lived afterwards
in Rome, sold hot waters, and would bring us presents
when he met us, kneeling and kissing the hems of our
cloaks; but the Jew was believed to be a counterfeit. This
church, situated on a spacious rising, was formerly con-
secrated to Minerva. It was well built and richly adorned,
and the body of St. Catherine di Sienna lies buried here.
The paintings of the chapel are by Marcello Venuti; the
Madonna over the altar is by Giovanni di Fiesole, called
the Angelic Painter, who was of the Order of these Monks.
There are many charities dealt publicly here, especially at
the procession on the Annunciation, when I saw his Holi-
ness, with all the Cardinals, Prelates, &c., in pontificalibus ;
dowries being given to 300 poor girls all clad in white. The
Pope had his tiara on his head, and was carried on men’s
shoulders in an open arm-chair, blessing the people as he
passed. The statue of Christ, at the Columna, is esteemed
one of the masterpieces of M. Angelo: innumerable are the
paintings by the best artists, and the organ is accounted
one of the sweetest in Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred ©

1645) John Evelyn 171

here. We returned by St. Mark’s, a stately church, with an
excellent pavement, and a fine piece by Perugino, of the
Two Martyrs. Adjoining to this is a noble palace built by
the famous Bramante.

26th February. Ascending the hill, we came to the
Forum Trajanum, where his column stands yet entire,
wrought with admirable basso-relievo recording the Dacian
war, the figures at the upper part appearing of the same
proportion with those below. It is ascended by 192 steps,
enlightened with 44 apertures, or windows, artificially dis-
posed; in height from the pedestal 140 feet.

It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where
now stands St. Peter’s of gilt brass, erected by Pope
Sextus V. The sculpture of this stupendous pillar is
thought to be the work of Apollodorus; but what is very
observable is, the descent to the plinth of the pedestal,
showing how this ancient city lies now buried in her ruins;
this monument being at first set up on a rising ground.
After dinner, we took the air in Cardinal Bentivoglio’s
delicious gardens, now but newly deceased. He had a fair
palace built by several good masters on part of the ruins of
Constantine’s Baths; well adorned with columns and paint-
ings, especially those of Guido Reni.

27th. Inthe morning, Mr. Henshaw and myself walked
to the Trophies of Marius, erected in honour of his victory
over the Cimbrians, but these now taken out of their niches
are placed on the balusters of the Capitol, so that their
ancient station is now a ruin. Keeping on our way, we
came to St. Croce of Jerusalem, built by Constantine over
the demolition of the Temple of Venus and Cupid, which
he threw down; and it was here they report he deposited
the wood of the true Cross found by his mother, Helena;
in honour whereof this church was built, and in memory of
his victory over Maxentius when that holy sign appeared
to him. The edifice without is Gothic, but very glorious
within, especially the roof, and one tribuna (gallery) well
painted. Here is a chapel dedicated to St. Helena, the floor
whereof is of earth brought from Jerusalem; the walls are
of fair mosaic, in which they suffer no women to enter,
save once a year. Under the high altar of the Church is
buried St. Anastasius, in Lydian marble, and Benedict
VII.; and they show a number of relics, exposed at our
request; with a phial of our blessed Saviour’s blood; two

172 Diary of {Rome

thorns of his crown; three chips of the real cross; one of
the nails, wanting a point; St. Thomas’s doubting finger ;
and a fragment of the title (put on the cross), being part

- of a thin board; some of Judas’s pieces of silver; and many
more, if one had faith to believe it. To this venerable
church joins a Monastery, the gardens taking up the space
of an ancient amphitheatre.

Hence, we passed beyond the walls out at the Port of St.
Laurence, to that Saint’s church, and where his ashes are
enshrined. This was also built by the same great Constan-
tine, famous for the Coronation of Pietro Altissiodorensis,
Emperor of Constantinople, by Honorius the Second. It is
said the corpse of St. Stephen, the proto-martyr, was
deposited here by that of St. Sebastian, which it had no
sooner touched, but Sebastian gave it place of its own
accord. The Church has no less than seven privileged altars, |
and excellent pictures. About the walls are painted this
martyr’s sufferings; and, when they built them, the bones
of divers saints were translated to other churches. The
front is Gothic. In our return, we saw a small ruin of an
aqueduct built by Quintus Marcius, the pretor; and so
passed through that incomparable straight street leading
to Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, sufficiently tired.

We were taken up next morning in seeing the imperti-
nences of the Carnival, when all the world are as mad at |
Rome as at other places; but the most remarkable were the |
three races of the Barbary horses, that run in the Strada ©
del Corso without riders, only having spurs so placed on
their backs, and hanging down by their sides, as by their
motion to stimulate them: then of mares, then of asses, of
buffalos, naked men, old and young, and boys, and abund-
ance of idle ridiculous pastime. One thing is remarkable,
their acting comedies on a stage placed on a cart, or
plaustrum, where the scene, or tiring-place, is made of
boughs in a rural manner, which they drive from street
to street with a yoke or two of oxen, after the ancient
guise. The streets swarm with prostitutes, buffoons, and |
all manner of rabble.

1st March. At the Greek Church, we saw the Eastern
ceremonies performed by a Bishop, &c., in that tongue.
Here the unfortunate Duke and Duchess of Bouillon
received their ashes, it being the first day of Lent. There
was now as much trudging up and down of devotees, as

1645] John Evelyn 173

the day before of licentious people; all saints alike to
appearance.

The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very
full of statues and antiquities, especially urns; amongst
which is that of Minutius Felix; a terminus that formerly
stood in the Appian way, and a huge colossé of the Emperor
Justinian. There is a delicate aviary on the hill; the whole
gardens furnished with rare collections, fresh, shady, and
adorned with noble fountains. Continuing our walk a mile
farther, we came to Pons Milvius, now Mela, where Con-
stantine overthrew Maxentius, and saw the miraculous sign
of the cross, In hoc signo vinces. It was a sweet morning,
and the bushes were full of nightingales. Hence, to Aqua
Claudia again, an aqueduct finished by that Emperor at the
expense of eight millions. In the afternoon, to Farnese’s
gardens, near the Campo Vaccino; and upon the Palatine
Mount to survey the ruins of Juno’s Temple, in the Piscina,
a piazza so called near the famous bridge built by Anto-
ninus Pius, and re-edified by Pope Sextus IV.

The rest of this week, we went to the Vatican, to hear the
sermons, at St. Peter’s, of the most famous preachers, who
discourse on the same subjects and text yearly, full of
Italian eloquence and action. On our Lady-day, 25th
March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp to the
Minerva, the great guns of the Castle of St. Angelo being
fired, when he gives portions to 500 gitelle (young women),
who kiss his feet in procession, some destined to marry,
some to be nuns ;—the scholars of the college celebrating
the blessed Virgin with their compositions. The next day,
his Holiness was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent
to several great Princes; the Procurator of the Carmelites
preaching on our Saviour’s feeding of the multitude with
five loaves, the ceremony ends. The sacrament being
this day exposed, and the relics of the Holy Cross,
the concourse about the streets is extraordinary. On
Palm-Sunday, there was a great procession, after a
papal mass.

11th April. St. Veronica’s handkerchief (with the im-
pression of our Saviour’s face) was exposed, and the next
day the spear, with a world of ceremony. On Holy Thurs-
day, the Pope said mass, and afterwards carried the Host
in procession about the chapel, with an infinity of tapers.
This finished, his Holiness was carried in his open chair

174 Diary of [Rome

on men’s shoulders to the place where, reading the Bull In
Caené Domini, he both curses and blesses all in a breath;
then the guns are again fired. Hence, he went to the Ducal
hall of the Vatican, where he washed the feet of twelve poor
men, with almost the same ceremony as it is done at White-
hall; they have clothes, a dinner, and alms, which he gives
with his own hands, and serves at their table; they have
also gold and silver medals, but their garments are of white
woollen long robes, as we paint the Apostles. The same
ceremonies are done by the Conservators and other officers
of state at St. John di Lateran; and now the table on which
they say our blessed Lord celebrated his last supper is set
out, and the heads of the Apostles. In every famous church
they are busy in dressing up their pageantries to represent
the Holy Sepulchre, of which we went to visit divers.

On Good Friday, we went again to St. Peter’s, where the
handkerchief, lance, and cross were all exposed, and wor- |
shipped together. All the confession-seats were filled with
devout people, and at night was a procession of several
who most lamentably whipped themselves till the blood
stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others upon the |
bare back, having visors and masks on their faces; at |
every three or four steps dashing the knotted and ravelled |
whip-cord over their shoulders, as hard as they could lay it
on; whilst some of the religious orders and fraternities |
sung in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going before,
making all together a horrible and indeed heathenish pomp.

The next day, there was much ceremony at St. John di
Lateran, so as the whole week was spent in running from
church to church, all the town in busy devotion, great
silence, and unimaginable superstition.

Easter-day, I was awakened by the guns from St.
Angelo: we went to St. Peter’s, where the Pope himself
celebrated mass, showed the relics before-named, and
gave a public Benediction.

Monday, we went to hear music in the Chiesa Nova;
and, though there were abundance of ceremonies at the
other great churches, and great exposure of relics, yet being
wearied with sights of this nature, and the season of the
year, summer, at Rome being very dangerous, by reason
of the heats minding us of returning northwards, we spent
the rest of our time in visiting such places as we had not
yet sufficiently seen. Only I do not forget the Pope’s bene-

1645) John Evelyn 175

diction of the Canfalone, or Standard, and giving the
hallowed palms; and, on May-day, the great procession of
the University and the muleteers at St. Anthony’s, and their
setting up a foolish May-pole in the Capitol, very ridicu-
lous. We therefore now took coach a little out of town, to
visit the famous Roma Sotterdnea, being much like what
we had seen at St. Sebastian’s. Here, in a corn-field,
guided by two torches, we crept on our bellies into a little
hole, about twenty paces, which delivered us into a large
entry that led us into several streets, or alleys, a good depth
in the bowels of the earth, a strange and fearful passage
for divers miles, as Bosio has measured and described them
in his book. We ever and anon came into pretty square
rooms, that seemed to be chapels with altars, and some
adorned with very ordinary ancient painting. Many skele-
tons and bodies are placed on the sides one above the other
in degrees like shelves, whereof some are shut up with a
coarse flat stone, having engraven on them Pro Christo,
or a cross and palms, which are supposed to have been
martyrs. Here, in all likelihood, were the meetings of the
Primitive Christians during the persecutions, as Pliny the
younger describes them. As I was prying about, I found a
glass phial, filled (as was conjectured) with dried blood, and
two lachrymatories. Many of the bodies, or rather bones
(for there appeared nothing else) lay so entire, as if placed
by the art of the chirurgeon, but being only touched fell all
to dust. Thus, after wandering two or three miles in this
subterranean meander, we returned almost blind when we
came into the daylight, and even choked by the smoke of
the torches. It is said that a French bishop and his retinue
adventuring too far in these dens, their lights going out,
were never heard of more.

We were entertained at night with an English play at the
Jesuits’, where we before had dined; and the next day at
Prince Galicano’s, who himself composed the music to a
magnificent opera, where were present Cardinal Pamphilio,
the Pope’s nephew, the Governors of Rome, the cardinals,
ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility and
strangers. There had been in the morning a joust and tour-
nament of several young gentlemen on a formal defy, to
which we had been invited; the prizes being distributed by
the ladies, after the knight-errantry way. The lancers

1 Roma Sotterdnea, folio, Rom. 1632.

I 76 Diary of (Rome

and swordsmen running at tilt against the barriers, with a
great deal of clatter, but without any bloodshed, giving
much diversion to the spectators, and was new to us
travellers.

The next day, Mr. Henshaw and | spent the morning in
attending the entrance and cavalcade of Cardinal Medici,
the ambassador from the Grand Duke of Florence, by the
Via Flaminia. After dinner, we went again to the Villa Bor-
ghese, about a mile without the city; the garden is rather
a park, or a Paradise, contrived and planted with walks
and shades of myrtles, cypress, and other trees, and groves,
with abundance of fountains, statues, and bass-relievos, and
several pretty murmuring rivulets. Here they had hung
large nets to catch woodcocks. There was also a vivary,
where, amongst other exotic fowls, was an ostrich; besides
a most capacious aviary; and, in another inclosed part, a
herd of deer. Before the Palace (which might become the
court of a great prince) stands a noble fountain, of white
marble, enriched with statues. The outer walls of the house
are encrusted with excellent antique bass-relievos, of the
same marble, incornished with festoons and niches set with
statues from the foundation to the roof. A stately portico
joins the Palace, full of statues and columns of marble,
urns, and other curiosities of sculpture. In the first hall
were the Twelve Cesars, of antique marble, and the whole
apartments furnished with pictures of the most celebrated
masters, and two rare tables of porphyry, of great value.
But of this already ;! for I often visited this delicious place.

This night were glorious fire-works at the Palace of Car-
dinal Medici before the gate, and lights of several! colours
all about the windows through the city, which they con-
trive by setting the candles in little paper lanterns dyed with
various colours, placing hundreds of them from story to
story ; which renders a gallant show.

4th May. WHaving seen the entry of the ambassador of
Lucca, I went to the Vatican, where, by favour of our
Cardinal Protector, Fran. Barberini, I was admitted into
the Consistory, heard the ambassador make his oration in
Latin to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state, or throne,
and changing two pontifical mitres; after which, I was pre-
sented to kiss his toe, that is, his embroidered slipper, two
Cardinals holding up his vest and surplice; and then, being

1 Ante, p. 117,

1645) John Evelyn 177

sufficiently blessed with his thumb and two fingers for that
day, I returned home to dinner.

We went again to see the medals of Signor Gotefredi,
which are absolutely the best collection in Rome.

Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human
figure lies, found on the snowy Alps; I measured the hydra,
and found it not a foot long; the three necks and fifteen
heads seem to be but patched up with several pieces of
serpents’ skins.

5th. We took coach, and went fifteen miles out of the
city of Frascati, formerly Tusculum, a villa of Cardinal
Aldobrandini, built for a country-house; but, surpassing, in
my opinion, the most delicious places I ever beheld for its
situation, elegance, plentiful water, groves, ascents, and
prospects. Just behind the Palace (which is of excellent
architecture) in the centre of the enclosure, rises a high hill,
or mountain, all over clad with tall wood, and so formed by
nature, as if it had been cut out by art, from the summit
whereof falls a cascade, seeming rather a great river than
a stream precipitating into a large theatre of water, repre-
senting an exact and perfect rainbow, when the sun shines
out. Under this, is made an artificial grot, wherein are
curious rocks, hydraulic organs, and all sorts of singing
birds, moving and chirping by force of the water, with
several other pageants and surprising inventions. In the
centre of one of these rooms, rises a copper ball that con-
tinually dances about three feet above the pavement, by
virtue of a wind conveyed secretly to a hole beneath it; with
many other devices to wet the unwary spectators, so that
one can hardly step without wetting to the skin. In one of
these theatres of water, is an Atlas spouting up the stream
to a very great height; and another monster makes a ter-
rible roaring with a horn; but, above all, the representation
of a storm is most natural, with such fury of rain, wind,
and thunder, as one would imagine oneself in some extreme
tempest. The garden has excellent walks and shady groves,
abundance of rare fruit, oranges, lemons, &c., and the
goodly prospect of Rome, above all description, so as I do
not wonder that Cicero and others have celebrated this place
with such encomiums. The Palace is indeed built more like
a cabinet than anything composed of stone and mortar; it
has in the middle a hall furnished with excellent marbles
and rare pictures, especially those ef Gioseppino d’Arpino;

178 Diary of [Tivoli

the moveables are princely and rich. This was the last piece
of architecture finished by Giacomo della Porta, who built it
for Pietro Cardinal Aldobrandini, in the time of Clement
VIII.

We went hence to another house and garden not far
distant, on the side of a hill called Mondragone, finished by
Cardinal Scipio Borghese, an ample and kingly edifice. It
has a very long gallery, and at the end a theatre for
pastimes, spacious courts, rare grots, vineyards, olive-
grounds, groves, and solitudes. The air is so fresh and
sweet, as few parts of Italy exceed it; nor is it inferior to
any palace in the city itself for statues, pictures, and fur-
niture; but, it growing late, we could not take such par-
ticular notice of these things as they deserved.

6th May. We rested ourselves; and next day, in a
coach, took our last farewell of visiting the circumjacent
places, going to Tivoli, or the old Tiburtum. At about six
miles from Rome, we pass the Teverone, a bridge built by
Mammea, the mother of Severus, and so by divers ancient
sepulchres, amongst others that of Valerius Volusi; and|
near it past the stinking sulphureous river over the Ponte)
Lucano, where we found a heap, or turret, full of inscrip-
tions, now called the Tomb of Plautius. Arrived at Tivoli,
we went first to see the Palace d’Este, erected on a plain, |
but where was formerly an hill. The Palace is very ample
and stately. In the garden, on the right hand, are sixteen
vast conchas of marble, jetting out waters; in the midst of
these stands a Janus quadrifrons, that cast forth four giran-
dolas, called from the resemblance (to a particular exhibi-
tion in fire-works so named) the Fontana di Spéccho (look-
ing-glass). Near this is a place for tilting. Before the
ascent of the Palace is the famous fountain of Leda, and
not far from that, four sweet and delicious gardens.
Descending thence are two pyramids of water, and in a

Pegasus, Bacchus, the Grot of Venus, the two Colosses o
Melicerta and Sibylla Tiburtina, all of exquisite marble
copper, and other suitable adornments. The Cupids pour
ing out water are especially most rare, and the urns o
which are placed the ten nymphs. The grots are richl
paved with pietra-commessa, shells, coral, &c.

1 Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected Pope in January
1592, by the name of Clement VIII., and died in March, 1605.

1645) John Evelyn 179

Towards Roma Triumphans, leads a long and spacious
walk, full of fountains, under which is historised the whole
Ovidian Metamorphosis, in rarely sculptured mezzo relievo.
At the end of this, next the wall, is the city of Rome as it
was in its beauty, of small models, representing that city,
with its amphitheatres; naumachi, therme, temples,
arches, aqueducts, streets, and other magnificences, with a
little stream running through it for the Tiber, gushing out
of an urn next the statue of the river. In another garden,
is a noble aviary, the birds artificial, and singing till an
owl appears, on which they suddenly change their notes.
Near this is the fountain of dragons, casting out large
streams of water with great noise. In another grotto, called
Grotto di Natura, is an hydraulic organ; and, below this,
are divers stews and fish-ponds, in one of which is the
statue of Neptune in his chariot on a sea-horse, in another
a Triton; and, lastly, a garden of simples. There are
besides in the palace many rare statues and pictures, bed-
steads richly inlaid, and sundry other precious moveables :
the whole is said to have cost the best part of a million.

Having gratified our curiosity with these artificial
miracles, and dined, we went to see the so famous natural
precipice and cascade of the river Anio, rushing down from
the mountains of Tivoli with that fury that, what with the
mist it perpetually casts up by the breaking of the water
against the rocks, and what with the sun shining on it
and forming a natural Iris, and the prodigious depth of the
gulf below, it is enough to astonish one that looks on it.
Upon the summit of this rock stands the ruins and some
pillars and cornices of the Temple of Sibylla Tyburtina, or
Albunea, a round fabric, still discovering some of its pris-
tine beauty. Here was a great deal of gunpowder drying
in the sun, and a little beneath, mills belonging to the
Pope.

And now we returned to Rome. By the way, we were
showed, at some distance, the city Preneste, and the
Hadrian villa, now only a heap of ruins; and so came late
to our lodging.

We now determined to desist from visiting any more
curiosities, except what should happen to come in our
way, when my companion, Mr. Henshaw, or myself should
go to take the air: only I may not omit that one afternoon,
diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a mountebank

180 Diary of [Rome

there to allure curious strangers, taking off a ring from his
finger, which seemed set with a dull, dark stone a little
swelling out, like what we call (though untruly) a toad-
stone, and wetting his finger a little in his mouth, and then
touching it, it emitted a luculent flame as bright and large
as a small wax candle; then, blowing it out, repeated this |
several times. I have much regretted that I did not pur-
chase the receipt of him for making that composition at
what price soever; for though there is a process in Jo.
Baptista Porta and others how to do it, yet on several
trials they none of them have succeeded.

Amongst other observations I made in Rome are these;
as to coins and medals, ten asses make the Roman denarius,
five the quinarius, ten denarii an aureus; which accompt
runs almost exactly with what is now in use of quatrini,
baiocs, julios, and scudi, each exceeding the other in the
proportion of ten. The sestertius was a small silver coin,
marked H. Ss. or rather LLS, valued two pounds and a half
of silver, viz. 250 denarii, about twenty-five golden ducati.
The stamp of the Roman denarius varied, having some-
times a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma armed, or with a |
chariot and two horses, which were called bigi; if with
four, quadrigi: if with a Victoria, so named. The mark of
the denarius was distinguished > | < thus, or X; the
quinarius of half value, had, on one side, the head of Rome
and V; the reverse, Castor and Pollux on horseback, in-
scribed Roma, &c.

I observed that in the Greek church they made the sign
of the cross from the right hand to the left; contrary to
the Latins and the schismatic Greeks; gave the benediction
with the first, second, and little finger stretched out, retain-—
ing the third bent down, expressing a distance of the third
Person of the Holy Trinity from the first two.

For sculptors and architects, we found Bernini and
Algardi were in the greatest esteem; Fiamingo, as a
statuary; who made the Andrea in St. Peter’s, and is said
to have died mad because it was placed in an ill light.
Amongst the painters, Antonio de la Cornea, who has such
an address of counterfeiting the hands of the ancient
masters so well as to make his copies pass for originals;
Pietro de Cortone, Monsieur Poussin, a Frenchman, and
innumerable more. Fioravanti, for armour, plate, dead
life, tapestry, &c. The chief masters of music, after Marc

1645] John Evelyn 181

Antonio, the best treble, is Cavalier Lauretto, an eunuch;
the next Cardinal Bichi’s eunuch, Bianchi, tenor, and
Nicholai, base. The Jews in Rome wore red hats, till the
Cardinal of Lyons, being short-sighted, lately saluted one
of them, thinking him to be a Cardinal as he passed by his
coach ; on which an order was made, that they should use
only the yellow colour. There was now at Rome one Mrs.
Vard, an English devotée, who much solicited for an order
of Jesuitesses.

At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hanged in his
cloak and hat for murder. They struck the malefactor with
a club that first stunned him, and then cut his throat. At
Naples they use a frame, like ours at Halifax.

It is reported that Rome has been once no less than fifty
miles in compass, now not thirteen, containing in it 3000
churches and chapels, monasteries, &c. It is divided into
fourteen regions or wards; has seven mountains, and as
many campi or valleys; in these are fair parks, or gardens,
cailed villas, being only places of recess and pleasure, at
some distance from the streets, yet within the walls.

The bills of exchange I took up from my first entering
Italy till I went from Rome, amounting but to 616 ducati
di banco, though I purchased many books, pictures, and
curiosities.

18th May. I intended to have seen Loretto, but, being
disappointed of monies long expected, I was forced to
return by the same way I came, desiring, if possible, to be
at Venice by the Ascension, and therefore I diverted to
take Leghorn in the way, as well to furnish me with credit
by a merchant there, as to take order for transporting such
collections as I had made at Rome. When on my way,
turning about to behold this once and yet glorious city,
from an eminence, I did not, without some regret, give it
my last farewell.

Having taken leave of our friends at Rome, where I had
sojourned now about seven months, autumn, winter, and
spring, I took coach, in company with two courteous Italian
gentlemen. In the afternoon, we arrived at a house, or
rather castle, belonging to the Duke of Parma, called
Caprarola,? situate on the brow of a hill, that overlooks a

1 A guillotine, see post 200.

® There is a large descriptive account published of this Palace,
with magnificent plates of the buildings, pictures, and statues.

182 Diary of [Caprarola

little town, or rather a natural and stupendous rock;
witness those vast caves serving now for cellarage, where
we were entertained with most generous wine of several
sorts, being just under the foundation. The Palace was
built by the famous architect, Vignola, at the cost of
Cardinal Alex. Farnese, in form of an octagon, the court
in the middle being exactly round, so as rather to resemble
a fort, or castle; yet the chambers within are ali of them
square, which makes the walls exceedingly thick. One of
these rooms is so artificially contrived, that from the two
opposite angles may be heard the least whisper; they say
any perfect square does it. Most of the paintings are by
Zuccari. It has a stately entry, on which spouts an artificial
fountain within the porch. The hall, chapel, and a great
number of lodging chambers are remarkable; but most of
all the pictures and witty inventions of Hannibal Caracci;
the Dead Christ is incomparable. Behind are the gardens
full of statues and noble fountains, especially that of the
Shepherds. After dinner, we took horse, and lay that night
at Monte Rossi, twenty miles from Rome.

19th. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at St. Laurenzo.
Next day, at Radicofani, and slept at Turnera.

21st May. We dined at Sienna, where we could not pass
admiring the great church! built entirely both within and
without with white and black marble in polished squares,
by Macarino, showing so beautiful after a shower has |
fallen. The floor within is of various coloured marbles, |
representing the story of both Testaments, admirably
wrought. Here lies Pius the Second. The bibliotéca is
painted by P. Perrugino and Raphael. The life of Aineas
Sylvius is in fresco; in the middle are the Three Graces, in
antique marble, very curious, and the front of this build-
ing, though Gothic, is yet very fine. Amongst other things,
they show St. Catharine’s disciplining cell, the door
whereof is half cut out into chips by the pilgrims and devo-
tees, being of deal wood.

Setting out hence for Pisa, we went again to see the
Duomo in which the Emperor Henry VII. lies buried,
poisoned by a monk in the Eucharist. The bending tower
was built by Busqueto Delichio, a Grecian architect, and is
a stupendous piece of art. In the gallery of curiosities is
a fair mummy: the tail of a sea-horse; coral growing on

1 Ante, p. 97.

1645) John Evelyn 183

a man’s skull; a chariot automaton; two pieces of rock
crystal, in one of which is a drop of water, in the other
three or four small worms; two embalmed children; divers
petrifactions, &c. The garden of simples is well furnished,
and has in it the deadly yew, or taxus, of the ancients;
which Dr. Belluccio, the superintendant, affirms that his
workmen cannot endure to clip for above the space of half
an hour at a time, from the pain of the head which sur-
prises them.

We went hence from Leghorn, by coach, where I took
up ninety crowns for the rest of my journey, with letters
of credit for Venice, after I had sufficiently complained of
my defeat of correspondence at Rome.

The next day, I came to Lucca, a small but pretty terri-
tory and state of itself. The city is neat and well fortified,
with noble and pleasant walks of trees on the works, where
the gentry and ladies used to take the air. It is situate on
an ample plain by the river Serchio, yet the country about
it is hilly. The Senate-house is magnificent. The church
of St. Michael is a noble piece, as is also St. Fredian, more
remarkable to us for the corpse of St. Richard, an English
king,} who died here on his pilgrimage towards Rome.
This epitaph is on his tomb:

Hic rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus:
Rex fuit Anglorum; regnum tenet iste Polorum.
Regnum demisit; pro Christo cuncta reliquit.
Ergo, Richardum nobis dedit Anglia sanctum.
Hic genitor Sancta Wulburge Virginis alme
Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi,
Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum.

Next this, we visited St. Croce, an excellent structure all
of marble both without and within, and so adorned as may
vie with many of the fairest even in Rome: witness the
huge cross, valued at £15,000, above all venerable for that
sacred volto which (as tradition goes) was miraculously put
on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus, whilst
the artist, finishing the rest of the body, was meditating
what face to set on it. The inhabitants are exceedingly
civil to strangers, above all places in Italy, and they speak
the purest Italian. It is also cheap living, which causes

1 What particular Richard King of England this was, it is impos.
sible to say; the tomb still exists, and has long been a crux to anti-
quaries and travellers.

184 Diary of (Pistoia

travellers to set up their rest here more than in Florence,
though a more celebrated city; besides, the ladies here are
very conversable, and the religious women not at all
reserved; of these we bought gloves and embroidered
stomachers, generally worn by gentlemen in these coun-
tries. The circuit of this state is but two easy days’ journey,
and lies mixed with the Duke of Tuscany’s, but having
Spain for a protector (though the least bigoted of all
Roman Catholics), and being one of the fortified cities in
Italy, is remains in peace. The whole country abounds in
excellent olives, &c.

Going hence for Florence, we dined at Pistoia, where,
besides one church, there was little observable: only in the
highway we crossed a rivulet of salt water, though many
miles from the sea. The country is extremely pleasant,
full of gardens, and the roads straight as a line for the
best part of that whole day, the hedges planted with
trees at equal distances, watered with clear and plentiful
streams.

Rising early the next morning, we arrived at Poggio
[mperiale, being a Palace of the Great Duke, not far from
the city, having omitted it in my passage to Rome. The
ascent to the house is by a stately gallery as it were of
tall and overgrown cypress trees for near half a mile. At
the entrance of these ranges, are placed statues of the
Tyber and Arno, of marble; those also of Virgil, Ovid,
Petrarch, and Dante. The building is sumptuous, and curi-
ously furnished within with cabinets of pietra-commessa in
tables, pavements, &c., which is a magnificence, or work,
particularly affected at Florence. The pictures are, Adam
and Eve by Albert Durer, very excellent; as is that piece of
carving in wood by the same hand standing in a cupboard.
Here is painted the whole Austrian line; the Duke’s mother,
sister to the Emperor, the foundress of this palace, than
which there is none in Italy that I had seen more magnifi-
cently adorned, or furnished.

We could not omit in our passage to re-visit the same,
and other curiosities which we had neglected on our first
being at Florence. We went, therefore, to see the famous
piece of Andrea del Sarto, in the Annunciata. The story
is, that the painter in a time of dearth borrowed a sack of
corn of the religious of that convent, and re-payment being
demanded, he wrought it out in this picture, which repre-

1645) John Evelyn 185

sents Joseph sitting on a sack of corn, and reading to the
Blessed Virgin; a piece infinitely valued. There fell down
in the cloister an old man’s face painted on the wall in
fresco, greatly esteemed, and brake into crumbs; the Duke
sent his best painters to make another instead of it, but
none of them would presume to touch a pencil where Andrea
had wrought, like another Apelles; but one of them was so
industrious and patient, that, picking up the fragments, he
laid and fastened them so artificially together, that the
injury it had received was hardly discernible. Andrea del
Sarto lies buried in the same place. Here is also that
picture of Bartolomeo, who having spent his utmost skill
in the face of the angel Gabriel, and being troubled that he
could not exceed it in the Virgin, he began the body and
to finish the clothes, and so left it, minding in the morning
to work on the face; but, when he came, no sooner had he
drawn away the cloth that was hung before it to preserve it
from the dust, than an admirable and ravishing face was
found ready painted; at which miracle all the city came in
to worship. It is now kept in the chapel of the Salutation,
a place so enriched by the devotees, that none in Italy, save
Loretto, is said to exceed it. This picture is always covered
with three shutters, one of which is of massy silver; me-
thinks it is very brown, the forehead and cheeks whiter, as
if it had been scraped. They report that those who have the
honour of seeing it never lose their sight—happy then we!
Belonging to this church is a world of plate, some whole
statues of it, and lamps innumerable, besides the costly
vows hung up, some of gold, and a cabinet of precious
stones.

Visiting the Duke’s repository again, we told at least
forty ranks of porphyry and other statues, and twenty-eight
whole figures, many rare paintings and relievos, two square
columns with trophies. In one of the galleries, twenty-four
figures, and fifty antique heads; a Bacchus of M. Angelo,
and one of Bandinelli; a head of Bernini, and a most lovely
Cupid, of Parian marble; at the further end, two admirable
women sitting, and a man fighting with a centaur; three
figures in little of Andrea; a huge candlestick of amber;
a table of Titian’s painting, and another representing God
the Father sitting in the air on the Four Evangelists;
animals; divers smaller pieces of Raphael; a piece of pure
virgin gold, as big as an egg. In the third chamber of

186 Diary of {Florence

rarities is the square cabinet, valued at 80,000 crowns,
showing, on every front, a variety of curious work; one
of birds and flowers, of pietra-commessa; one, a descent
from the cross, of M. Angelo; on the third, our Blessed
Saviour and the Apostles, of amber; and, on the fourth,
a crucifix of the same. Betwixt the pictures, two naked
Venuses, by Titian; Adam and Eve, by Durer; and several
pieces of Portdenone, and del Frate. There is a globe of
six feet diameter. In the Armoury, were an entire elk, a
crocodile, and amongst the harness, several targets and
antique horse-arms, as that of Charlies V.; two set with
turquoises, and other precious stones; a horse’s tail, of
a wonderful length. Then, passing the Old Palace, which
has a very great hall for feasts and comedies, the roof rarely
painted, and the side-walls with six very large pictures
representing battles, the work of Gio. Vassari. Here is a
magazine full of plate; a harness of emeralds; the fur-
nitures of an altar four feet high, and six in length, of
massy gold; in the middle is placed the statue of Cosmo
II.; the bass-relievo is of precious stones, his breeches|
covered with diamonds; the mouldings of this statue, and|
other ornaments, festoons, &c., are garnished with jewels
and great pearls, dedicated to St. Charles, with this in-
scription, in rubies :

Cosimus Secundus Dei gratié Magnus Dux Etrurie ex voto.

There is also a King on horseback, of massy gold, two
feet high, and an infinity of such like rarities. Looking
at the Justice, in copper, set up on a column by Cosmo,
1555, after the victory over Sienna, we were told that th
Duke, asking a gentleman how he liked the piece, he
answered, that he liked it very well, but that it stood t
high for poor men to come at it.

Prince Leopold has, in this city, a very excellent collec
tion of paintings, especially a St. Catherine of P. Ver
nese; a Venus of marble, veiled from the middle to th
feet, esteemed to be of that Greek workman who made th
Venus at the Medicis’ Palace in Rome, altogether as good
and better preserved, an inestimable statue, not long sinc
found about Bologna. .

Signor Gaddi is a lettered person, and has divers rarities,
statues, and pictures of the best masters, and one bust
marble as much esteemed as the most antique in Italy, an

a

1645] John Evelyn 187

many curious manuscripts; his best paintings are, a Virgin
of del Sarto, mentioned by Vassari, a St. John by Raphael,
and an Ecce Homo by Titian.

The hall of the Academy de la Crusca is hung about with
impresses and devices painted, all of them relating to
corn sifted from the bran; the seats are made like bread-
baskets and other rustic instruments used about wheat,
and the cushions of satin, like sacks.

We took our farewell of St. Laurence, more particularly
noticing that piece of the Resurrection, which consists of
a prodigious number of naked figures, the work of Pon-
tormo. On the left hand, is the Martyrdom of St.
Laurence, by Bronzino, rarely painted indeed. In a chapel
is the tomb of Pietro di Medici, and his brother John,
of copper, excellently designed, standing on two lions’ feet,
which end in foliage, the work of M. Angelo. Over against
this, are sepulchres of all the ducal family. The altar has
a statue of the Virgin giving suck, and two Apostles.
Paulus Jovius has the honour to be buried in the cloister.
Behind the choir is the superb chapel of Ferdinand I., con-
sisting of eight faces, four plain, four a little hollowed; in
the other are to be the sepulchres, and a niche of paragon,
for the statue of the prince now living, all of copper gilt;
above, is a large table of porphyry, for an inscription for
the Duke, in letters of jasper. The whole chapel, walls,
pavement, and roof, are full of precious stones united with
the mouldings, which are also of gilded copper, and so
are the bases and capitals of the columns. The tabernacle,
with the whole altar, is inlaid with cornelians, lazuli, ser-
pentine, agates, onyxes, &c. On the other side, are six
very large columns of rock crystal, eight figures of precious
stones of several colours, inlaid in natural figures, not
inferior to the best paintings, amongst which are many
pearls, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, sumptuous and spark-
ling beyond description. The windows without side are
of white marble. The library is the architecture of Raphael ;
before the port is a square vestibule of excellent art, of
all the orders, without confusion; the ascent to it from
the library is excellent. We numbered eighty-eight shelves,
all MSS. and bound in red, chained; in all about 3500
volumes, as they told us.

The Arsenal has sufficient to arm 70,000 men, accurately
preserved and kept, with divers lusty pieces of ordnance,

J 229 H

188 Diary of [Bologna

whereof one is for a ball of 300 pounds weight, and
another for 160, which weighs 72,500 pounds.

When I was at Florence, the celebrated masters were;
for pietra-commessa (a kind of mosaic, or inlaying, of
various coloured marble, and other more precious stones),
Dominico Benetti and Mazotti; the best statuary Vincentio |
Brochi. This statuary makes those small figures in plaster
and pasteboard, which so resembie copper that, till one
handles them, they cannot be distinguished, he has so rare
an art of bronzing them; I bought four of him. The best
painter, Pietro Beretino di Cortona.

This Duke has a daily tribute for every courtezan, or
prostitute, allowed to practise that infamous trade in his
dominions, and so has his Holiness the Pope, but not so
much in value.

Taking leave of our two jolly companions, Signor Gio-
vanni and his fellow, we took horses for Bologna; and, by
the way, alighted at a villa of the Grand Duke’s, called
Pratolino. The house is a square of four pavilions, with
a fair platform about it, balustred with stone, situate in
a large meadow, ascending like an amphitheatre, having
at the bottom a huge rock, with water running in a smal! ©
channel, like a cascade; on the other side, are the gardens.
The whole place seems consecrated to pleasure and summer
retirement. The inside of the Palace may compare with
any in Italy for furniture of tapestry, beds, &c., and the
gardens are delicious, and full of fountains. In the grove
sits Pan feeding his flock, the water making a melodious
sound through his pipe; and a Hercules, whose club yields —
a shower of water, which, falling into a great shell, has a
naked woman riding on the backs of dolphins. In another
grotto is Vulcan and his family, the walls richly composed
of corals, shells, copper, and marble figures, with the hunt-
ing of several beasts, moving by the force of water. Here,
having been well washed for our curiosity, we went down
a large walk, at the sides whereof several slender streams
of water gush out of pipes concealed underneath, that
interchangeably fall into each other’s channels, making a
lofty and perfect arch, so that a man on horseback may ride
under it, and not receive one drop of wet. This canopy, or
arch of water, I thought one of the most surprising mag-
nificences I had ever seen, and very refreshing in the heat
of the summer. At the end of this very long walk, stands a

1645] John Evelyn 189

woman in white marble, in posture of a laundress wring-
ing water out of a piece of linen, very naturally formed,
into a vast laver, the work and invention of M. Angelo
Buonarotti. Hence, we ascended Mount Parnassus, where
the Muses played to us on hydraulic organs. Near this is
a great aviary. All these waters came from the rock in the
garden, on which is the statue of a giant representing the
Apennines, at the foot of which stands this villa. Last of
all, we came to the labyrinth, in which a huge colosse of
Jupiter throws out a stream over the garden. This is fifty
feet in height, having in his body a square chamber, his
eyes and mouth serving for windows and door.

We took horse and supped that night at I] Ponte, pass-
ing a dreadful ridge of the Apennines, in many places
capped with snow, which covers them the whole summer.
We then descended into a luxurious and rich plain. The
next day we passed through Scarperia, mounting the hills
again, where the passage is so straight and precipitous
towards the right hand, that we climbed them with much
care and danger; lodging at Firenzuolo, which is a fort
built amongst the rocks, and defending the confines of the
Great Duke’s territories.

The next day, we passed by the Pietramala, a burning
mountain. At the summit of this prodigious mass of hills,
we had an unpleasant way to Pianura, where we slept that
night and were entertained with excellent wine. Hence
to Scargalasino, and to bed at Loiano. This plain begins
about six miles from Bologna.

Bologna belongs to the Pope, and is a famous University,
situate in one of the richest spots of Europe for all sorts
of provisions. It is built like a ship, whereof the Torre
d’Asinelli may go for the mainmast. The city is of no
great strength, having a trifling wall about it, in circuit
near five miles, and two in length. This Torre d’Asinelli,
ascended by 447 steps of a foot rise, seems exceedingly
high, is very narrow, and the more conspicuous from
another tower called Garisendi, so artificially built of brick
(which increases the wonder), that it seems ready to fall.
It is not now so high as the other; but they say the upper
part was formerly taken down, for fear it should really
fall, and do mischief.

Next, we went to see an imperfect church, called St.
Petronius, showing the intent of the founder, had he gone

190 Diary of [Bologna

on. From this, our guide led us to the schools, which
indeed are very magnificent. Thence to St. Dominic’s,
where that saint’s body lies richly enshrined. The stalls,
or seats, of this goodly church have the history of the Bible
inlaid with several woods, very curiously done, the work
of one Fr. Damiano di Bergamo, and a friar of that order.
Amongst other relics, they show the two books of Esdras,
written with his own hand. Here lie buried Jac. Andreas,
and divers other learned persons. To the church joins the
convent, in the quadrangle whereof are old cypresses, said
to have been planted by their saint.

Then we went to the Palace of the Legate; a fair brick
building, as are most of the houses and buildings, full of
excellent carving and mouldings, so as nothing in stone
seems to be better finished or more ornamental; witness
those excellent columns to be seen in many of their
churches, convents, and public buildings; for the whole |
town is so cloistered, that one may pass from house to
house through the streets without being exposed either
to rain, or sun.

Before the stately hall of this Palace stands the statue
of Paul IV. and divers others; also the monument of the
coronation of Charles V. The piazza before it is the most
stately in Italy, St. Mark’s at Venice only excepted. In
the centre of it is a fountain of Neptune, a noble figure in
copper. Here I saw a Persian walking about in a rich vest
of cloth of tissue, and several other ornaments, according
to the fashion of his country, which much pleased me;
he was a young handsome person, of the most stately
mien.

I would fain have seen the library of St. Saviour, famous
for the number of rare manuscripts; but could not, so we
went to St. Francis, a glorious pile, and exceeding]
adorned within.

After dinner, I enquired out a priest and Dr. Montalbano,
to whom I brought recommendations from Rome; thi
learned person invented, or found out, the composition 0:
the lapis illuminabilis, or phosphorus. He showed me thei
property (for he had several), being to retain the light o
the sun for some competent time, by a kind of imbibition,
by a particular way of calcination. Some of these presente
a blue colour, like the flame of brimstone, others like coal
of a kitchen fire. The rest of the afternoon was taken u

1645] John Evelyn IgI

in St. Michael in Bosco, built on a steep hill on the edge
of the city, for its fabric, pleasant shade and groves,
cellars, dormitory, and prospects, one of the most delicious
retirements I ever saw; art and nature contending which
shall exceed; so as till now I never envied the life of a
friar. The whole town and country to a vast extent are
under command of their eyes, almost as far as Venice
itself. In this convent there are many excellent paintings
of Guido Reni; above all, the little cloister of eight faces,
painted by Caracci in fresco. The carvings in wood, in the
sacristy, are admirable, as is the inlaid work about the
chapel, which even emulates the best paintings; the work is
so delicate and tender. The paintings of the Saviour are
of Caracci and Leonardo, and there are excellent things of
Raphael which we could not see.

{n the Church of St. John is a fine piece of St. Cecilia,
by Raphael. As to other paintings, there is in the Church
of St. Gregory an excellent picture of a Bishop giving the
habit of St. Bernard to an armed soldier, with several other
figures in the piece, the work of Guerchino. Indeed, this
city is full of rare pieces, especially 1 of Guido Domenico,
and a virgin named Isabella Sirani, now living, who has
painted many excellent pieces, and imitates Guido so well,
that many skilful artists have been deceived.

At the Mendicants are the Miracles of St. Eloy, by Reni,
after the manner of Caravaggio, but better; and here they
showed us that famous piece of Christ calling St. Matthew,
by Annibal Caracci. The Marquis Magniani has the whole
frieze of his hall painted in fresco by the same hand.

Many of the religious men nourish those lap-dogs which
the ladies are so fond of, and which they here sell. They
are a pigmy sort of spaniels, whose noses they break when
puppies; which, in my opinion, deforms them.

At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the
dormitory of St. Michael, I found a paper pasted near the
window, containing the dimensions of most of the famous
churches in Italy compared with their towers here, and the
length of this gallery, a copy whereof I took.

1 Giovanni Andrea Sirani, a Bolognese artist, had three daughters.
The most celebrated, Elizabetta, born 1638, and died August 1657, is
the lady alluded to by Evelyn as having been so famous a copyist
of Guido, of whom her father was a pupil and imitator. Her sisters,

Anna and Barbara, were also artists, but never reached the excellence
of Elizabetta.

192 Diary of (Bologna

| |

|
Braccia! | Piedi di Bolognia | Becnnces |
| St. Pietro di Roma, longo 284 | 473 84
/Cupalo del muro, alta’. 210 350 | 60 |
| Torre d’ Asinello, alto. 2084 | 348 59 pr.™ 6 |
| Dormitorio de St. Mich. a |
| Bologn. longo .. . 254 422 | 72h |

From hence, being brought to a subterranean territory
of cellars, the courteous friars made us taste a variety of
excellent wines ; and so we departed to our inn.

The city is famous also for sausages; and here is sold
great quantities of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo,
Caviare, &c., which makes some of their shops perfume the
streets with no agreeable smell. We furnished ourselves
with wash-balls, the best being made here, and being a
considerable commodity. This place has also been celebrated
for lutes made by the old masters, Mollen, Hans Frey, and |
Nicholas Sconvelt, which were of extraordinary price; |
the workmen were chiefly Germans. The cattle used for
draught in this country (which is very rich and fertile,
especially in pasturage) are covered with housings of linen —
fringed at the bottom, that dangle about them, preserving |
them from flies, which in summer are very troublesome.

From this pleasant city, we proceeded towards Ferrara, —
carrying with us a bulletino, or bill of health (customary |
in all these parts of Italy, especially in the State of Venice)
and so put ourselves into a boat that was towed with horses,
often interrupted by the sluices (inventions there to raise
the water for the use of mills, and to fill the artificial
canals) at every of which we stayed till passage was made.
We went by the Castle Bentivoglio, and, about night,
arrived at an ugly inn called Mal Albergo, agreeable to its
name, whence, after we had supped, we embarked and
passed that night through the Fens, where we were so
pestered with those flying glow-worms, called Luccioli, that
one who had never heard of them, would think the country
full of sparks of fire. Beating some of them down, and
applying them to a book, | could read in the dark by the
light they afforded.

Quitting our boat, we took coach, and by morning got to

1 A measure of half an ell.

1645] John Evelyn 193

Ferrara, where, before we could gain entrance, our guns
and arms were taken from us of custom, the lock being
taken off before, as we were advised. The city is in a low
marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The houses
and streets have nothing of beauty, except the palace and
church of St. Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried, and
there are some good statues, the palazzo del Diamante,
citadel, church of St. Dominico. The market-place is very
spacious, having in its centre the figure of Nicholao Olao
once Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in copper. It is, ina
word, a dirty town, and, though the streets be large, they
remain ill paved; yet it is a University, and now belongs
to the Pope. Though there are not many fine houses in
the city, the inn where we lodged was a very noble palace,
having an Angel for its sign.

We parted from hence about three in the afternoon, and
went some of our way on the canal, and then embarked on
the Po, or Padus, by the poets called Eridanus, where they
feign Pheton to have fallen after his rash attempt, and
where Io was metamorphosed into a cow. There was in
our company, amongst others, a Polonian Bishop, who
was exceeding civil to me in this passage, and afterwards
did me many kindnesses at Venice. We supped this night
at a place called Corbua, near the ruins of the ancient city,
Adria, which gives name to the Gulf, or Sea. After three
miles, having passed thirty on the Po, we embarked in a
stout vessel, and through an artificial canal, very straight,
we entered the Adige, which carried us by break of day
into the Adriatic, and so sailing prosperously by Chioza
{a town upon an island in this sea), and Palestina, we came
over against Malamocco (the chief port and anchorage
where our English merchantmen lie that trade to Venice)
about seven at night, after we had stayed at least two
hours for permission to land, our bill of health being
delivered, according to custom. So soon as we came on
shore, we were conducted to the Dogana, where our port-
manteaus were visited, and then we got to our lodging,
which was at honest Signor Paulo Rhodomante’s at the
Black Eagle, near the Rialto, one of the best quarters of
the town. This journey from Rome to Venice cost me
seven pistoles, and thirteen julios.

June, The next morning, finding myself extremely weary
and beaten with my journey, I went to one of their bagnios,

194 Diary of [Venice

where you are treated after the eastern manner, washing
with hot and cold water, with oils, and being rubbed with
a kind of strigil of seal’s-skin, put on the operator’s hand
like a glove. This bath did so open my pores, that it cost
me one of the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for
want of necessary caution in keeping myself warm for some
time after; for, coming out, I immediately began to visit
the famous places of the city; and travellers who come into
Italy do nothing but run up and down to see sights, and
this city well deserved our admiration, being the most won-
derfully placed of any in the world, built on so many
hundred islands, in the very sea, and at good distance from
the continent. It has no fresh water, except what is
reserved in cisterns from rain, and such as is daily brought
from terra firma in boats, yet there was no want of it, and
all sorts of excellent provisions were very cheap.

It is said that when the Huns over-ran Italy, some mean
fishermen and others left the main land, and fied for shelter |
to these despicable and muddy islands, which, in process
of time, by industry, are grown to the greatness of one
of the most considerable States, considered as a Republic,
and having now subsisted longer than any of the four —
ancient Monarchies, flourishing in great state, wealth, and |
glory, by the conquest of great territories in Italy, Dacia,
Greece, Candia, Rhodes, and Sclavonia, and at present
challenging the empire of all the Adriatic Sea, which they
yearly espouse by casting a gold ring into it with great
pomp and ceremony, on Ascension-day ; the desire of seeing
this was one of the reasons that hastened us from Rome.

The Doge, having heard mass in his robes of state
(which are very particular, after the eastern fashion), to-
gether with the Senate in their gowns, embarked in their
gloriously painted, carved, and gilded Bucentora, en-
vironed and followed by innumerable galleys, gondolas,
and boats, filled with spectators, some dressed in mas-
querade, trumpets, music, and cannons. Having rowed
about a league into the Gulf, the Duke, at the prow, casts”
a gold ring and cup into the sea, at which a loud acclama-
tion is echoed from the great guns of the Arsenal, and at
the Liddo. We then returned.

Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water-
coach (for land ones, there are many old men in this city
who never saw one, or rarely a horse), we rode up and

1645) John Evelyn 195

down the channels, which answer to our streets. These
vessels are built very long and narrow, having necks and
tails of steel, somewhat spreading at the beak like a fish’s
tail, and kept so exceedingly polished as to give a great
lustre; some are adorned with carving, others lined with
velvet, (commonly black), with curtains and tassels, and
the seats like couches, to lie stretched on, while he who
rows, stands upright on the very edge of the boat, and,
with one oar bending forward as if he would fall into the
sea, rows and turns with incredible dexterity ; thus passing
from channel to channel, landing his fare, or patron, at
what house he pleases. The beaks of these vessels are
not unlike the ancient Roman rostrums.

The first public building I went to see was the Rialto, a
bridge of one arch over the grand canal, so large as to
admit a galley to row under it, built of good marble, and
having on it, besides many pretty shops, three ample and
stately passages for people without any inconvenience, the
two outmost nobly balustred with the same stone; a piece
of architecture much to be admired. It was evening, and
the canal where the Noblesse go to take the air, as in our
Hyde-park, was full of ladies and gentlemen. There are
many times dangerous stops, by reason of the multitude
of gondolas ready to sink one another; and indeed they
affect to lean them on one side, that one who is not accus-
tomed to it, would be afraid of over-setting. Here they
were singing, playing on harpsichords, and other music,
and serenading their mistresses; in another place, racing,
and other pastimes on the water, it being now exceeding
hot.

Next day, I went to their exchange, a place like ours,
frequented by merchants, but nothing so magnificent:
from thence, my guide led me to the Fondigo di Todeschi,
which is their magazine, and here many of the merchants,
especially Germans, have their lodging and diet, as in a
college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by
Giorgione da Castelfranco, and Titian himself.

Hence, I passed through the Mercera, one of the most
delicious streets in the world for the sweetness of it, and is
all the way on both sides tapestried as it were with cloth
of gold, rich damasks and other silks, which the shops
expose and hang before their houses from the first floor,
and with that variety that for near half the year spent

] 220 ey

196 Diary of [Venice

chiefly in this city, 1 hardly remember to have seen
the same piece twice exposed; to this add the perfumes,
apothecaries’ shops, and the innumerable cages of nightin-
gales which they keep, that entertain you with their melody
from shop to shop, so that shutting your eyes, you would
imagine yourself in the country, when indeed you are in
the middle of the sea. It is almost as silent as the middle
of a field, there being neither rattling of coaches nor tramp-
ling of horses. This street, paved with brick, and exceed-
ingly clean, brought us through an arch into the famous
piazza of St. Mark.

Over this porch stands that admirable clock, celebrated
next to that of Strasburg for its many movements;
amongst which, about twelve and six, which are their
hours of Ave Maria, when all the town are on their knees,
come forth the three Kings led by a star, and passing by
the image of Christ in his Mother’s arms, do their rever-
ence, and enter into the clock by another door. At the top
of this turret, another automaton strikes the quarters. An
honest merchant told me that one day walking in the
piazza, he saw the fellow who kept the clock struck with
this hammer so forcibly, as he was stooping his head near
the bell, to mend something amiss at the instant of strik-
ing, that being stunned, he reeled over the battlements,
and broke his neck. The buildings in this piazza are all
arched, on pillars, paved within with black and white
polished marble, even to the shops, the rest of the fabric
as stately as any in Europe, being not only marble, but
the architecture is of the famous Sansovini, who lies buried
in St. Jacomo, at the end of the piazza. The battlements
of this noble range of building are railed with stone, and
thick-set with excellent statues, which add a great orna-
ment. One of the sides is yet much more Roman-like than
the other which regards the sea, and where the church is
placed. The other range is plainly Gothic: and so we
entered into St. Mark’s Church, before which stand two
brass pedestals exquisitely cast and figured, which bear
as many tall masts painted red, on which, upon great
festivals, they hang flags and streamers. The church is
also Gothic; yet for the preciousness of the materials, being
of several rich marbles, abundance of porphyry, serpentine,
&c., far exceeding any in Rome, St. Peter’s hardly
excepted. I much admired the splendid history of ovr

1645] John Evelyn 197

blessed Saviour, composed all of mosaic over the facciata,
below which and over the chief gates are cast four horses
in copper as big as the life, the same that formerly were
transported from Rome by Constantine to Byzantium, and
thence by the Venetians hither.1 They are supported by
eight porphyry columns, of very great size and value.
Being come into the Church, you see nothing, and tread on
nothing, but what is precious. The floor is all inlaid with
agates, lazulis, chalcedons, jaspers, porphyries, and other
rich marbles, admirable also for the work; the walls
sumptuously incrusted, and presenting to the imagination
the shapes of men, birds, houses, flowers, and a thou-
sand varieties. The roof is of most excellent mosaic; but
what most persons admire is the new work of the emblem-
atic tree at the other passage out of the church. In the
midst of this rich volto rise five cupolas, the middle very
large and sustained by thirty-six marble columns, eight of
which are of precious marbles: under these cupolas is the
high altar, on which is a reliquary of several sorts of
jewels, engraven with figures, after the Greek manner, and
set together with plates of pure gold. The altar is covered
with a canopy of ophite, on which is sculptured the story
of the Bible, and so on the pillars, which are of Parian
marble, that support it. Behind these, are four other
columns of transparent and true oriental alabaster, brought
hither out of the mines of Solomon’s Temple, as they
report. There are many chapels and notable monuments
of illustrious persons, dukes, cardinals, &c., as Zeno,
J. Soranzi, and others: there is likewise a vast baptistery,
of copper. Among other venerable relics is a stone, on
which they say our blessed Lord stood preaching to those
of Tyre and Sidon, and near the door is an image of
Christ, much adorned, esteeming it very sacred, for that a
rude fellow striking it, they say, there gushed out a torrent
of blood. In one of the corners lies the body of St. Isidore,
brought hither 500 years since from the island of Chios.
A little farther, they show the picture of St. Dominic and
Francis, affirmed to have been made by the Abbot Joachim
(many years before any of them were born). Going out
of the Church, they showed us the stone where Alexander
IIJ. trod on the neck of the Emperor Frederick Barbar-

1 They were taken away by Buonaparte to Paris; but in 1815,
were sent back to Venice.

I 98 Diary of [Venice

ossa, pronouncing that verse of the psalm, ‘‘ super bast-
liscum,’’ &c. The doors of the church are of massy copper.
There are near 500 pillars in this building, most of them
porphyry and serpentine, and brought chiefly from Athens,
and other parts of Greece, formerly in their power. At the
corner of the Church, are inserted into the main wall four
figures, as big as life, cut in porphyry; which they say are
the images of four brothers who poisoned one another, by
which means were escheated to the Republic that vast
treasury of relics now belonging to the Church. At the
other entrance that looks towards the sea, stands in a
small chapel that statue of our Lady, made (as they
affirm) of the same stone, or rock, out of which Moses
brought water to the murmuring Israelites at Horeb, or
Meriba.

After all that is said, this church is, in my opinion, much
too dark and dismal, and of heavy work; the fabric,—as is
much of Venice, both for buildings and other fashions and
circumstances,—after the Greeks, their next neighbours.

The next day, by favour of the French ambassador, |

had admittance with him to view the Reliquary, called here |

Tesoro di San Marco, which very few, even of travellers,
are admitted to see. It is a large chamber full of presses.

There are twelve breast-plates or pieces of pure golden |

armour, studded with precious stones, and as many crowns
dedicated to St. Mark, by so many noble Venetians, who
had recovered their wives taken at sea by the Saracens;
many curious vases of agates; the cap, or coronet, of the
Dukes of Venice, one of which had a ruby set on it,
esteemed worth 200,000 crowns; two unicorns’ horns;
numerous vases and dishes of agate, set thick with precious
stones and vast pearls; divers heads of Saints, enchased
in gold; a small ampulla, or glass, with our Saviour’s
blood; a great morsel of the real cross; one of the nails;
a thorn; a fragment of the column to which our Lord was
bound, when scourged; the standard, or ensign, of Con-
stantine; a piece of St. Luke’s arm; a rib of St. Stephen;
a finger of Mary Magdalen; numerous other things, which
I could not remember. But a priest, first vesting himself
in his sacerdotals, with the stole about his neck, showed us
the gospel of St. Mark (their tutelar patron) written by his
own hand, and whose body they show buried in the church,
brought hither from Alexandria many years ago.

1645] John Evelyn 199

The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of Paolo
Veronese, especially the Magdalen.

A French gentleman and myself went to the Courts of
Justice, the Senate-house, and Ducal Palace. The first
court near this church is almost wholly built of several
coloured sorts of marble, like chequer-work on the outside ;
this is sustained by vast pillars, not very shapely, but
observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three
no two are alike. Under this fabric is the cloister where
merchants meet morning and evening, as also the grave
senators and gentlemen, to confer of state-affairs, in their
gowns and caps, like so many philosophers; it is a very
noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle, stood
two square columns of white marble, carved, which they
said had been erected to hang one of their Dukes on, who
designed to make himself Sovereign. Going through a
stately arch, there were standing in niches divers statues
of great value, amongst which is the so celebrated Eve,
esteemed worth its weight in gold; it is just opposite to the
stairs where are two Colossuses of Mars and Neptune, by
Sansovino. We went up into a Corridor built with several
Tribunals and Courts of Justice; and by a well-contrived
staircase were landed in the Senate-hall, which appears to
be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in Europe,
being seventy-six paces long, and thirty-two in breadth.
At the upper end, are the Tribunals of the Doge, Council
of Ten, and Assistants: in the body of the hall, are lower
ranks of seats, capable of containing 1500 Senators; for
they consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over the
Duke’s throne are the paintings of the ‘‘ Final Judgment,”’
by Tinoret, esteemed among the best pieces in Europe. On
the roof are the famous Acts of the Republic, painted by
several excellent masters, especially Bassano; next them,
are the effigies of the several Dukes, with their Elogies.
Then, we turned into a great Court painted with the Battle
of Lepanto, an excellent piece; afterwards, into the
Chamber of the Council of Ten, painted by the most cele-
brated masters. From hence, by the special favour of an
Illustrissimo, we were carried to see the private Armoury
of the Palace, and so to the same court we first entered,
nobly built of polished white marble, part of which
is the Duke’s Court, pro tempore; there are two wells
adorned with excellent work, in copper. This led us to

200 Diary of [Venice

the seaside, where stand those columns of ophite-stone
in the entire piece, of a great height, one bearing
St. Mark’s Lion, the other St. Theodorus: these pillars
were brought from Greece, and set up by Nicholas
Baraterius, the architect; between them public executions
are performed.

Having fed our eyes with the noble prospect of the
Island of St. George, the galleys, gondolas, and other
vessels passing to and fro, we walked under the cloister on
the other side of this goodly piazza, being a most mag-
nificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went
into the Zecca, or Mint; at the entrance, stand two pro-
digious giants, or Hercules, of white marble: we saw them
melt, beat, and coin silver, gold, and copper. We then
went up into the Procuratory, and a library of excellent
MSS. and books belonging to it and the public. After
this, we climbed up the tower of St. Mark, which we might
have done on horseback, as it is said one of the French
Kings did; there being no stairs, or steps, but returns that
take up an entire square on the arches forty feet, broad
enough for a coach. This steeple stands by itself, without
any church near it, and is rather a watch tower in the
corner of the great piazza, 230 feet in height, the founda-
tion exceeding deep; on the top, is an angel, that turns with
the wind; and from hence is a prospect down the Adriatic,
as far as Istria and the Dalmatian side, with the surprising
sight of this miraculous city, lying in the bosom of the
sea, in the shape of a lute, the numberless Islands tacked
together by no fewer than 450 bridges. At the foot of this
tower, is a public tribunal of excellent work, in white
marble polished, adorned with several brass statues and
figures of stone and mezzo-relievo, the performance of some
rare artist.

It was now Ascension-week, and the great mart, or fair,
of the whole year was kept, every body at liberty and
jolly ; the noblemen stalking with their ladies on choppines.
These are high-heeled shoes, particularly affected by these
proud dames, or, as some say, invented to keep them at
home, it being very difficult to walk with them; whence,
one being asked how he liked the Venetian dames, replied,
they were mezzo carne, mezzo legno, half flesh, half wood,
and he would have none of them. The truth is, their garb
is very odd, as seeming always in masquerade; their other

1645] John Evelyn 201

habits also totally different from all nations. They wear
very long crisp hair, of several streaks and colours, which
they make so by a wash, dishevelling it on the brims of a
broad hat that has no crown, but a hole to put out their
heads by; they dry them in the sun, as one may see them
at their windows. In their tire, they set silk flowers and
sparkling stones, their petticoats coming from their very
arm-pits, so that they are near three quarters and a half
apron ; their sleeves are made exceeding wide, under which
their shift-sleeves as wide, and commonly tucked up to the
shoulder, showing their naked arms, through false sleeves
of tiffany, girt with a bracelet or two, with knots of point
richly tagged about their shoulders and other places of
their body, which they usua!ly cover with a kind of yellow
veil, of lawn, very transparent. Thus attired, they set their
hands on the heads of two matron-like servants, or old
women, to support them, who are mumbling their beads.
It is ridiculous to see how these ladies crawl in and out of
their gondolas, by reason of their choppines; and what
dwarfs they appear, when taken down from their wooden
scaffolds ; of these I saw near thirty together, stalking half
as high again as the rest of the world. For courtezans,
or the citizens, may not wear choppines, but cover their
bodies and faces with a veil of a certain glittering taffeta,
or lustrée, out of which they now and then dart a glance
of their eye, the whole face being otherwise entirely hid
with it: nor may the common misses take this habit; but
go abroad barefaced. To the corner of these virgin-veils
hang broad but flat tassels of curious Point de Venice.
The married women go in black veils. The nobility wear
the same colour, but a fine cloth lined with taffeta, in
summer, with fur of the bellies of squirrels, in the winter,
which all put on at a certain day, girt with a girdle
embossed with silver; the vest not much different from
what our Bachelors of Arts wear in Oxford, and a hood of
cloth, made like a sack, cast over their left shoulder, and
a round cloth black cap fringed with wool, which is not
so comely; they also wear their collar open, to shew the
diamond button of the stock of their shirt. I have never
seen pearl for colour and bigness comparable to what the
ladies wear, most of the noble families being very rich in
jewels, especially pearls, which are always left to the son,
or brother who is destined to marry; which the eldest

202 Diary of [Venice

seldom do. The Doge’s vest is of crimson velvet, the Pro-
curator’s, &c. of damask, very stately. Nor was I less sur-
prised with the strange variety of the several nations seen
every day in the streets and piazzas; Jews, Turks,
Armenians, Persians, Moors, Greeks, Sclavonians, some
with their targets and bucklers, and all in their native
fashions, negotiating in this famous Emporium, which is
always crowded with strangers.

This night, having with my Lord Bruce?! taken our
places before, we went to the Opera, where comedies and
other plays are represented in recitative music, by the most
excellent musicians, vocal and instrumental, with variety
of scenes painted and contrived with no less art of per-
spective, and machines for flying in the air, and other
wonderful notions; taken together, it is one of the most
magnificent and expensive diversions the wit of man can
invent. The history was, Hercules in Lydia; the scenes
changed thirteen times. The famous voices, Anna Rencia,
a Roman, and reputed the best treble of women; but there ©
was an eunuch who, in my opinion, surpassed her; also
a Genoese that sung an incomparable bass. This held us
by the eyes and ears till two in the morning, when we went
to the Chetto de san Felice, to see the noblemen and their
ladies at basset, a game at cards which is much used; but
they play not in public, and all that have inclination to it
are in masquerade, without speaking one word, and so they
come in, play, lose or gain, and go away as they please.
This time of licence is only in Carnival and this Ascension-
Week; neither are their theatres open for that other mag-
nificence, or for ordinary comedians, save on these solem-
nities, they being a frugal and wise people, and exact
observers of all sumptuary laws.

There being at this time a ship bound for the Holy Land,
I had resolved to embark, intending to see Jerusalem, and
other parts of Syria, Egypt, and Turkey; but after I had
provided all necessaries, laid in snow to cool our drink,
bought some sheep, poultry, biscuit, spirits, and a little
cabinet of drugs, in case of sickness, our vessel (whereof
Captain Powell was master) happened to be pressed for the ©
service of the State, to carry provisions to Candia, now

1 Thomas Bruce, first Earl of Elgin, in Scotland; created by
Charles I. on the 13th July, 1640, Baron Bruce, of Whorlton, York-
shire, in the English peerage. He died in 1663.

1645] John Evelyn 203

newly attacked by the Turks; which altogether frustrated
my design, to my great mortification.

On the... June, we went to Padua, to the fair of their
St. Anthony, in company of divers passengers. The first
terra firma we landed at was Fusina, being only an inn
where we changed our barge, and were then drawn up by
horses through the river Brenta, a straight channel as even
as a line for twenty miles, the country on both sides delici-
ously adorned with country villas and gentlemen’s retire-
ments, gardens planted with oranges, figs, and other fruit,
belonging to the Venetians. At one of these villas we went
ashore to see a pretty contrived palace. Observable in this
passage was buying their water of those who farm the
sluices ; for this artificial river is in some places so shallow,
that reserves of water are kept with sluices, which they
open and shut with a most ingenious invention, or engine,
governed even by a child. Thus they keep up the water,
or let it go, till the next channel be either filled by the
stop, or abated to the level of the other; for which every
boat pays acertain duty. Thus, we stayed near half an hour
and more, at three several places, so as it was evening
before we got to Padua. This is a very ancient city, if the
tradition of Antenor’s being the founder be not a fiction;
but thus speaks the inscription over a stately gate:

Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium asylum, cujus agrum
fertilitatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit, anno ante

Christum natum M.Cxviii; Senatus autem Venetus his belli pro-
pugnaculis ornavit.

The town stands on the river Padus, whence its name,
and is generally built like Bologna, on arches and on brick,
so that one may walk all round it, dry, and in the shade;
which is very convenient in these hot countries, and I think
I was never sensible of so burning a heat as I was this
season, especially the next day, which was that of the fair,
filled with noble Venetians, by reason of a great and solemn
procession to their famous cathedral. Passing by St.
Lorenzo, I met with this subscription :

Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem*
Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumq; fuga,

Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem,
Quem tegit hic humili marmore cz#sa domus.

1 Keysler very justly observes (iii. 220), that the first line of this
inscription conveys no meaning.

204 Diary of [Venice

Under the tomb, was a cobbler at his work. Being now
come to St. Anthony’s (the street most of the way straight,
well-built, and outside excellently painted in fresco) we sur-
veyed the spacious piazza, in which is erected a noble statue
of copper of a man on horseback, in memory of one Catta
Malata,} a renowned captain. The church, 4 la Greca,
consists of five handsome cupolas, leaded. At the left hand
within is the tomb of St. Anthony and his altar, about
which a mezzo-relievo of the miracles ascribed to him is
exquisitely wrought in white marble by the three famous
sculptors, Tullius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus, and
Hieronymus Compagno. A little higher is the choir, walled
parapet-fashion, with sundry coloured stone, half relievo,
the work of Andrea Reccij. The altar within is of the same
metal, which, with the candlestick and bases, is, in my
opinion, as magnificent as any in Italy. The wainscot of |
the choir is rarely inlaid and carved. Here are the sepul-
chres of many famous persons, as of Rodolphus Fulgosi, |
&c. ; and, among the rest, one for an exploit at sea, has a
galley exquisitely carved thereon. The procession bore the |
banners with all the treasure of the cloister, which was a
very fine sight.

Hence, walking over the Prato delle Valle, I went to see
the convent of St. Justina, than which I never beheld one
more magnificent. The church is an excellent piece of
architecture, of Andrea Palladio, richly paved, with a
stately cupola that covers the high altar enshrining the
ashes of that saint. It is of pietra-commessa, consisting of
flowers very naturally done. The choir is inlaid with several
sorts of wood representing the holy history, finished with ©
exceeding industry. At the far end, is that rare painting of
St. Justina’s Martyrdom, by Paolo Veronese; and a stone
on which they told us divers primitive Christians had |
been decapitated. In another place (to which leads a small
cloister well-painted) is a dry well, covered with a brass-
work grate, wherein are the bones of divers martyrs. They
show also the bones of St. Luke, in an old alabaster coffin;
three of the Holy Innocents ; and the bodies of St. Maximus
and Prosdocimus.2 The dormitory above is exceedingly
commodious and stately; but what most pleased me, was

1 Lassells (p. 429) calls him Gatta Mela, the Venetian General,
nicknamed Gata, because of his watchfulness.
9 St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua. Lassells, p. 430.

1645] John Evelyn 205

the old cloister so well painted with the legendary saints,
mingled with many ancient inscriptions, and pieces of urns
dug up, it seems, at the foundation of the church. Thus,
having spent the day in rambles, I returned the next day
to Venice.

The arsenal is thought to be one of the best-furnished in
the world. We entered by a strong port, always guarded,
and, ascending a spacious gallery, saw arms of back,
breast, and head, for many thousands; in another were
saddles ; over them, ensigns taken from the Turks. Another
hall is for the meeting of the Senate; passing a graff, are
the smiths’ forges, where they are continually employed
on anchors and iron work. Near it is a well of fresh water,
which they impute to two rhinoceros’s horns which they
say lie in it, and will preserve it from ever being
empoisoned. Then we came to where the carpenters were
building their magazines of oars, masts, &c., for an hun-
dred galleys and ships, which have all their apparel and
furniture near them. Then the foundry, where they cast
ordnance ; the forge is 450 paces long, and one of them has
thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon, weighing 16,573
lbs., cast whilst Henry the Third dined, and put into a
galley built, rigged, and fitted for launching within that
time. They have also arms for twelve galeasses, which
are vessels to row, of almost 150 feet long, and thirty wide,
not counting prow or poop, and contain twenty-eight banks
of oars, each seven men, and to carry 1300 men, with
three masts. In another, a magazine for fifty galleys, and
place for some hundreds more. Here stands the Bucentaur,
with a most ample deck, and so contrived that the slaves
are not seen, having on the poop a throne for the Doge to
sit, when he goes in triumph to espouse the Adriatic. Here
is also a gallery of 200 yards long for cables, and above
that a magazine of hemp. Opposite these, are the salt-
petre houses, and a large row of cells, or houses, to protect
their galleys from the weather. Over the gate, as we go
out, is a room full of great and small guns, some of which
discharge six times at once. Then, there is a court full of
cannon, bullets, chains, grapples, grenadoes, &c., and over
that arms for 800,000 men, and by themselves arms for
400, taken from some that were in a plot against the State;
together with weapons of offence and defence for sixty-
two ships; thirty-two pieces of ordnance, on carriages

206 Diary of [Venice

taken from the Turks, and one prodigious mortar-piece. In
a word, it is not to be reckoned up what this large place
contains of this sort. There were now twenty-three galleys,
and four galley-grossi, of 100 oars of a side. The whole
arsenal is walled about, and may be in compass about three
miles, with twelve towers for the watch, besides that the
sea environs it. The workmen, who are ordinarily 500,
march out in military order, and every evening receive their
pay through a small hole in the gate where the governor
lives.

The next day, I saw a wretch executed, who had mur-
dered his master, for which he had his head chopped off by
an axe that slid down a frame of timber,! between the two
tall columns in St. Mark’s piazza, at the sea-brink; the
executioner striking on the axe with a beetle; and so the
head fell off the block.

Hence, by Gudala, we went to see Grimani’s Palace, the |
portico whereof is excellent work. Indeed, the world can- |
not show a city of more stately buildings, considering the
extent of it, all of square stone, and as chargeable in their |
foundations as superstructure, being all built on piles at
an immense cost. We returned home by the church of
St. Johanne and Paulo, before which is, in copper, the
statue of Bartolomeo Colone, on horseback, double |
gilt, on a stately pedestal, the work of Andrea Verrochio, |
a Florentine! This is a very fine church, and has in
it many rare altar-pieces of the best masters, especially
that on the left hand, of the Two Friars slain, which is of
Titian.

The day after, being Sunday, I went over to St. George’s
to the ceremony of the schismatic Greeks, who are per-
mitted to have their church, though they are at defiance
with Rome. They allow no carved images, but many
painted, especially the story of their patron and his dragon. —
Their rites differ not much from the Latins, save that of
communicating in both species, and distribution of the holy
bread. We afterwards fell into a dispute with a Candiot,
concerning the procession of the Holy Ghost. The church
is a noble fabric.

The church of St. Zachary is a Greek building, by Leo
{V., Emperor, and has in it the bones of that prophet, with

1 The maiden at Halifax, in Yorkshire, and the guillotine in
France, were constructed after the same manner.

1645) John Evelyn 207

divers other saints. Near this, we visited St. Luke’s,
famous for the tomb of Aretin.4

Tuesday, we visited several other churches, as Santa
Maria, newly incrusted with marble on the outside, and
adorned with porphyry, orphite, and Spartan stone. Near
the altar and under the organ, are sculptures, that are said
to be of the famous artist, Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul
I went purposely, to see the tomb of Titian. Then to St.
John the Evangelist, where, amongst other heroes, lies
Andrea Baldarius, the inventor of oars applied to great
vessels for fighting.

We also saw St. Roche, the roof whereof is, with the
school, or hall, of that rich confraternity, admirably painted
by Tintoretto, especially the Crucifix in the sacristia. We
saw also the church of St. Sebastian, and Carmelite’s
monastery.

Next day, taking our gondola at St. Mark’s, I passed to
the island of St. George Maggiore, where is a Convent of
Benedictines, and a well-built church of Andrea Palladio,
the great architect. The pavement, cupola, choir, and pic-
tures, very rich and sumptuous. The cloister has a fine
garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, though this
is an island a little distant from the city; it has also an
olive-orchard, all environed by the sea. The new cloister
now building has a noble stair-case paved with white and
black marble.

From hence, we visited St. Spirito, and St. Laurence,
fair churches in several islands; but most remarkable is
that of the Padri Olivetani, in St. Helen’s island, for the
rare paintings and carvings, with inlaid work, &c.

The next morning, we went again to Padua, where, on
the following day, we visited the market, which is plenti-
fully furnished, and exceedingly cheap. Here we saw the
great hall, built in a spacious piazza, and one of the most
magnificent in Europe; its ascent is by steps a good height,
of a redish marble polished, much used in these parts, and
happily found not far off; it is almost 200 paces long, and
forty in breadth, all covered with lead, without any support

1 On whom the epigram was written:

Here lies the man who no man spared,
When the angry fit was on him;

Nor God. himself had better fared,
If Aretin had known him.

208 Diar y of (Padua

of columns. At the farther end, stands the bust, in white
marble, of Titus Livius, the historian. In this town is the
house wherein he was born, full of inscriptions, and pretty
fair.

Near to the monument of Speron Speroni, is painted on
the ceiling the celestial zodiac, and other astronomical |
figures; without side, there is a corridor, in manner of a
balcony, of the same stone; and at the entry of each of the
three gates is the head of some famous person, as Albert
Eremitano, Julio Paullo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In
the piazza is the Podesta’s and Capitano Grande’s Palace,
well-built; but, above all, the Monte Pieta, the front
whereof is of most excellent architecture. This is a founda-
tion of which there is one in most of the cities in Italy, |
where there is a continual bank of money to assist the
poorer sort, on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, to-
gether with magazines for deposit of goods, till redeemed.

Hence, to the Schools of this flourishing and ancient
University, especially for the study of physic and anatomy.
They are fairly built in quadrangle, with cloisters beneath,
and above with columns. Over the great gate are the arms
of the Venetian State, and under the lion of St. Mark.

Sic ingredere, ut teipso quotidie doctior; sic egredere ut indies

Patriz Christianeq; Reipublice utilior evadas; ita demim Gym-
nasium a te felicitér se ornatum existimabit.

CIO. 1X.

About the court-walls, are carved in stone and painted
the blazons of the Consuls of all the nations, that from
time to time have had that charge and honour in the
University, which at my being there was my worthy friend
Dr. Rogers, who here took that degree.

The Schools for the lectures of the several sciences are
above, but none of them comparable, or so much fre-
quented, as the theatre for anatomy, which is excellently
contrived both for the dissector and spectators. I was this
day invited to dinner, and in the afternoon, (30th July)
received my matricula, being resolved to spend some
months here at study, especially physic and anatomy, of
both which there were now the most famous professors in
Europe. My matricula contained a clause, that I, my
goods, servants, and messengers, should be free from all
tolls and reprises, and that we might come, pass, return,
buy, or sell, without any toll, &c.

1645] John Evelyn 209

The next morning, I saw the garden of simples, rarely
furnished with plants, and gave order to the gardener to
make me a collection of them for an hortus hyemalis, by
permission of the Cavalier Dr. Veslingius,! then Prefect
and Botanic Professor as well as of Anatomy.

This morning, the Earl of Arundel,? now in this city, a
famous collector of paintings and antiquities, invited me to
go with him to see the garden of Mantua, where, as one
enters, stands a huge colosse of Hercules. From hence to
a place where was a room covered with a noble cupola, built
purposely for music; the fillings up, or cove, betwixt the
walls, were of urns and earthen pots, for the better sound-
ing; it was also well painted. After dinner, we walked to
the Palace of Foscari all’ Arena, there remaining yet some
appearances of an ancient theatre, though serving now for
a court only before the house. There were now kept in it
two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheep, a stag, and
sundry fowls, as in a vivary.

Three days after, I returned to Venice, and passed over
to Murano, famous for the best glasses in the world, where
having viewed their furnaces, and seen their work, I made
a collection of divers curiosities and glasses, which I sent
for England by long sea. It is the white flints they have
from Pavia, which they pound and sift exceedingly small,
and mix with ashes made of a sea-weed brought out of
Syria, and a white sand, that causes this manufacture to
excel. The town is a Podestaria by itself, at some miles
distant on the sea from Venice, and like it built upon several
small islands. In this place, are excellent oysters, small
and well-tasted like our Colchester, and they were the
first, as 1 remember, that I ever could eat; for I had
naturally an aversion to them.

At our return to Venice, we met several gondolas full of

1 John Vesling was born at Minden, in Germany, in 1598; and be-
came Professor of Anatomy in the University of Padua. Evelyn says
that at his visit he was anatomical and botanical professor, and
prefect. He had the care of the botanical garden, and published a
catalogue of its plants. He wrote also ‘‘ Syntagma Anatomicum,”’
and shortly afterwards travelled into Egypt, where he seems to have
paid a good deal of attention to the artificial means of hatching
poultry, then an Egyptian marvel, lately a common exhibition in
London. He wrote many other works, and died in 1649.

2 The celebrated Thomas, Ear! of Arundel, part of whose collection
was eventually procured for the University of Oxford by Evelyn, and
ie distinguished by the name Marmora Arundeliana.

210 Diary of [Venice

Venetian ladies, who come thus far in fine weather to
take the air, with music and other refreshments. Besides
that, Murano is itself a very nobly built town, and has
divers noblemen’s palaces in it, and handsome gardens.

In coming back, we saw the islands of St. Christopher
and St. Michael, the last of which has a church enriched
and incrusted with marbles and other architectonic orna-
ments, which the monks very courteously showed us. It
was built and founded by Margaret Emiliana of Verona,
a famous courtezan, who purchased a great estate, and by
this foundation hoped to commute for her sins. We then
rowed by the isles of St. Nicholas, whose church, with the
monuments of the Justinian family, entertained us awhile :
and then got home.

The next morning, Captain Powell, in whose ship I was
to embark towards Turkey, invited me on board, lying
about ten miles from Venice, where we had a dinner of
English powdered beef and other good meat, with store
of wine and great guns, as the manner is. After dinner,
the Captain presented me with a stone he had lately
brought from Grand Cairo, which he took from the
mummy-pits, full of hieroglyphics; I drew it on paper with
the true dimensions, and sent it in a letter to Mr. Henshaw |
to communicate to Father Kircher, who was then setting
forth his great work ‘‘ Obeliscus Pamphilius,’’ where it is
described, but without mentioning my name. The stone
was afterwards brought for me into England, and landed
at Wapping, where, before I could hear of it, it was
broken into several fragments, and utterly defaced, to my
no small disappointment.

The boatswain of the ship also gave me a hand and
foot of a mummy, the nails whereof had been overlaid with
thin plates of gold, and the whole body was perfect, when
he brought it out of Egypt; but the avarice of the ship’s
crew broke it to pieces, and divided the body among them.
He presented me also with two Egyptian idols, and some
loaves of the bread which the Coptics use in the holy
Sacrament, with other curiosities.

8th August. I had news from Padua of my election to
be Syndicus Artistarum, which caused me, after two days
idling in a country villa with the Consul of Venice, to
hasten thither, that I might discharge myself of that
honour, because it was not only chargeable, but would

1645] John Evelyn 211

have hindered my progress, and they chose a Dutch
gentleman in my place, which did not well please my
countrymen, who had laboured not a little to do me the
greatest honour a stranger is capable of in that University.
Being freed from this impediment, and having taken leave
of Dr. Janicius, a Polonian, who was going physician in
the Venetian galleys to Candia, | went again to Venice,
and made a collection of several books and some toys.
Three days after, I returned to Padua, where I studied
hard till the arrival of Mr. Henshaw, Bramstone, and some
other English gentlemen whom I had left at Rome, and
who made me go back to Venice, where I spent some time
in showing them what I had seen there.

26th September. My dear friend, and till now my con-
stant fellow-traveller, Mr. Thicknesse, being obliged to
return to England upon his particular concern, and who
had served his Majesty in the wars, 1 accompanied him
part of his way, and, on the 28th, returned to Venice.

29th. Michaelmas-day, I went with my Lord Mowbray
(eldest son to the Earl of Arundel, and a most worthy
person) to see the collection of a noble Venetian, Signor
Rugini. He has a stately Palace, richly furnished with
statues and heads of Roman Emperors, all placed in an
ample room. In the next, was a cabinet of medals, both
Latin and Greek, with divers curious shells and two fair
pearls in two of them; but, above all, he abounded in
things petrified, walnuts, eggs in which the yolk rattled,
a pear, a piece of beef with the bones in it, a whole hedge-
hog, a plaice on a wooden trencher turned into stone and
very perfect, charcoal, a morsel of cork yet retaining its
levity, sponges, and a piece of taffety part rolled up, with
innumerable more. In another cabinet, supported by
twelve pillars of oriental agate, and railed about with
crystal, he showed us several noble intaglios of agate,
especially a head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath with her
dog, some rare cornelians, onyxes, crystals, &c., in one
of which was a drop of water not congealed, but moving

1 James Lord Mowbray and Maltravers, the eldest son of Lord
Arundel, died before his father. Evelyn’s friend was Henry Frederick,
the Earl's second son, who, on his father’s death in Italy, succeeded
to the earldom of Arundel. He married, in 1626, Elizabeth, eldest
daughter of Esme Stuart, Earl of March, and afterwards Duke of
Lennox; who will be found noticed occasionally by Evelyn. He died
April 7, 1652.

Z1iZ Diary of {Padua

up and down, when shaken; above all, a diamond which
had a very fair ruby growing in it; divers pieces of amber,
wherein were several insects, in particular one cut like a
heart that contained in it a salamander without the least
defect, and many pieces of mosaic. The fabric of this
cabinet was very ingenious, set thick with agates, tur-
quoises, and other precious stones, in the midst of which
was an antique of a dog in stone scratching his ear, very
rarely cut, and comparable to the greatest curiosity I had
ever seen of that kind for the accurateness of the work.
The next chamber had a bedstead all inlaid with agates,
crystals, cornelians, lazuli, &c., esteemed worth 16,000
crowns; but, for the most part, the bedsteads in Italy are
of forged iron giided, since it is impossible to keep the
wooden ones from the cimices.

From hence, I returned to Padua, when that town was
so infested with soldiers, that many houses were broken
open in the night, some murders committed, and the nuns
next our lodging disturbed, so as we were forced to be
on our guard with pistols and other fire-arms to defend
our doors; and indeed the students themselves take a bar-
barous liberty in the evenings when they go to their
strumpets, to stop all that pass by the house where any
of their companions in folly are with them. This custom
they call chi vali, so as the streets are very dangerous,
when the evenings grow dark; nor is it easy to reform this
intolerable usage, where there are so many strangers of
several nations.

Using to drink my wine cooled with snow and ice, as the
manner here is, | was so afflicted with an angina and sore-
throat, that it had almost cost me my life. After all the
remedies Cavalier Veslingius, chief professor here, could
apply, old Salvatico (that famous physician) being called,
made me be cupped, and scarified in the back in four
places; which began to give me breath, and consequently
life; for I was in the utmost danger; but, God being
merciful to me, I was after a fortnight abroad again;
when, changing my lodging, I went over against Pozzo
Pinto, where I bought for winter provision 3000 weight
of excellent grapes, and pressed my own wine, which
proved incomparable liquor.

This was on roth October. Soon after came to visit me
from Venice Mr. Henry Howard, grandchild to the Earl

1645] John Evelyn 202

of Arundel,! Mr, Bramstone, son to the Lord Chief Justice,
and Mr. Henshaw, with whom I went to another part of
the city to lodge near St. Catherine’s, over against the
monastery of nuns, where we hired the whole house, and
lived very nobly. Here I learned to play on the theorb,
taught by Signor Dominico Bassano, who had a daughter
married to a doctor of laws, that played and sung to nine
several instruments, with that skill and address as few
masters in Italy exceeded her; she likewise composed
divers excellent pieces: I had never seen any play on the
Naples viol before. She presented me afterwards with two
recitativos of hers, both words and music.

31st. October. Being my birth-day, the nuns of St.
Catherine’s sent me flowers of silk-work. We were very
studious all this winter till Christmas, when, on Twelfth-
day, we invited all the English and Scots in town to a
feast, which sunk our excellent wine considerably.

1645-6. In January, Signor Molino was chosen Doge
of Venice, but the extreme snow that fell, and the cold,
hindered my going to see the solemnity, so as I stirred not
from Padua till Shrovetide, when all the world repair to
Venice, to see the folly and madness of the Carnival; the
women, men, and persons of all conditions disguising
themselves in antique dresses, with extravagant music and
a thousand gambols, traversing the streets from house to
house, all places being then accessible and free to enter.
Abroad, they fling eggs filled with sweet water, but some-
times not over-sweet. They also have a barbarous custom
or hunting bulls about the streets and piazzas, which is
very dangerous, the passages being generally narrow. The
youth of the several wards and parishes contend in other
masteries and pastimes, so that it is impossible to recount
the universal madness of this place during this time of
license. The great banks are set up for those who will
play at basset; the comedians have liberty, and the operas
are open; witty pasquils are thrown about, and the
mountebanks have their stages at every corner. The
diversions which chiefly took me up was three noble operas,

1 Second son of the preceding. He succeeded his elder brother,
Thomas, who had been restored to the dukedom of Norfolk, as sixth
duke, though he had previously been created Baron Howard and Earl
of Norwich. Also created Earl Marshal of England, and died January
11, 1863-4. Evelyn often mentions this family.

214 Diary of [Padua

where were excellent voices and music, the most cele-
brated of which was the famous Anna Rencia,! whom we
invited to a fish-dinner after four days in Lent, when they
had given over at the theatre. Accompanied with an
eunuch whom she brought with her, she entertained us
with rare music, both of them singing to a harpsichord.
It growing late, a gentleman of Venice came for her,
to show her the galleys, now ready to sail for Candia.
This entertainment produced a second, given us by the
English consul of the merchants, inviting us to his house,
where he had the Genoese, the most celebrated base in
Italy, who was one of the late opera-band. This diversion
held us so late at night, that, conveying a gentlewoman
who had supped with us to her gondola at the usual place
of landing, we were shot at by two carbines from another
gondola, in which were a noble Venetian and his courtezan
unwilling to be disturbed, which made us run in and fetch
other weapons, not knowing what the matter was, till we
were informed of the danger we might incur by pursuing
it farther.

Three days after this, I took my leave of Venice, and
went to Padua, to be present at the famous anatomy
lecture, celebrated here with extraordinary apparatus, last-
ing almost a whole month. During this time, I saw a
woman, a child, and a man dissected with all the manual
operations of the chirurgeon on the human body. The one
was performed by Cavalier Veslingius and Dr. Jo. Athel-
steinus Leoncenas, of whom I purchased those rare tables
of veins and nerves, and caused him to prepare a third
of the lungs, liver, and nervi sexti par: with the gastric
veins, which I sent into England, and afterwards presented
to the Royal Society, being the first of that kind that had
been seen there, and, for aught I know, in the world,
though afterwards there were others. When the anatomy
lectures, which were in the mornings, were ended, I went
to see cures done in the hospitals; and certainly as there
are the greatest helps and the most skilful physicians, so
there are the most miserable and deplorable objects to exer-
cise upon. Nor is there any, I should think, so powerful
an argument against the vice reigning in this licentious
country, as to be spectator of the misery these poor crea-

1 Ante, p. 202.

1646] John Evelyn 215

tures undergo. They are indeed very carefully attended,
and with extraordinary charity.

2zoth March. I returned to Venice, where I took leave
of my friends.

22nd. I was invited to excellent English potted venison,
at Mr. Hobbson’s, a worthy merchant.

23rd. I took my leave of the Patriarch and the Prince of
Wirtemberg, and Monsieur Grotius (son of the learned
Hugo) now going as commander to Candia; and, in the
afternoon, received of Vandervoort, my merchant, my bills
of exchange of 300 ducats for my journey. He showed me
his rare collection of Italian books, esteemed very curious,
and of good value.

The next day, 1 was conducted to the Ghetto, where the
Jews dwell together as in a tribe or ward, where I was
present at a marriage. The bride was clad in white, sitting
in a lofty chair, and covered with a white veil; then two
old Rabbis joined them together, one of them holding a
giass of wine in his hand, which, in the midst of the cere-
mony, pretending to deliver to the woman, he let fall, the
breaking whereof was to signify the frailty of our nature,
and that we must expect disasters and crosses amidst all
enjoyments. This done we had a fine banquet, and were
brought into the bride-chamber, where the bed was dressed
up with flowers, and the counterpane strewed in works. At
this ceremony, we saw divers very beautiful Portuguese
Jewesses, with whom we had some conversation.

I went to the Spanish Ambassador with Bonifacio, his
confessor, and obtained his pass to serve me in the Spanish
dominions; without which I was not to travel, in this pom-
pous form:

‘*Don Gaspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Sefior
Le Lerena y Verazuza, Commendador de Colos, en la Orden de
Sant Yago, Alcalde Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de la Ciudad
de Sevilla, Gentilhombre de la Camara de S. M. su Azimilero Mayor,
de su Consejo, su Embaxador extraordinario a los Principes de Italia,
y Alemania, y a esta serenissima Republica de Venetia, &c. Haviendo
de partir de esta Ciudad para La Milan el Signior Cavallero Evelyn
Ingles, con un Criado, mi han pedido Passa-porte para los Estatos
de su M. Le he mandado dar el presente, firmado de mi mano, y
sellado con el sello de mis armas, por el qual encargo a todos los
menestros de S. M. antes quien le presentase y a los que no lo son,
supplico les dare passar libramente sin permitir que se le haya vexa-
cion alguna antes mandar le las favor para continuar su viage. Fecho

en Venecia a 24 del mes de Marzo del an’o 1646.
Mar. de la Fuentes, &c.”’

216 Diary of [Venice

Having packed up my purchases of books, pictures,
casts, treacle, &c., (the making and extraordinary cere-
mony whereof I had been curious to observe, for it is
extremely pompous and worth seeing) I departed from
Venice, accompanied with Mr. Waller (the celebrated poet),
now newly gotten out of England, after the Parliament had
extremely worried him for attempting to put in execution
the commission of Array, and for which the rest of his
colleagues were hanged by the rebels.

The next day, I took leave of my comrades at Padua,
and receiving some directions from Dr. Salvatico as to the
care of my health, 1 prepared for my journey towards Milan.

It was Easter-Monday that I was invited to breakfast at
the Earl of Arundel’s.! I took my leave of him in his bed,
where I left that great and excellent man in tears on some
private discourse of crosses that had befallen his illustrious
family, particularly the undutifulness of his grandson
Philip’s turning Dominican Friar (since Cardinal of Nor-
folk),2 and the misery of his country now embroiled in civil
war. He caused his gentleman to give me directions, all
written with his own hand, what curiosities I should in-
quire after in my journey; and, so enjoining me to write
sometimes to him, I departed. There stayed for me below,
Mr. Henry Howard (afterwards Duke of Norfolk), Mr.
J. Digby, son of Sir Kenelm Digby, and other gentlemen,
who conducted me to the coach.

The famous lapidaries of Venice for false stones and
pastes, so as to emulate the best diamonds, rubies, &c.,
were Marco Terrasso and Gilbert.

An accompt of what Bills of Exchange I took up at Venice since my
coming from Rome, till my departure from Padua.

11th Aug., 1645 . : . 200
7th Sept. E . : * 135
1st Oct. : s 4 » ‘100
15th Jan., 1646 5 : - 100
23rd April : 7 : - 300

835 Ducati di Banco.

1 Lassells, who travelled a short time after Evelyn, says (p. 429),
that the Earl died here, and that his bowels are buried under a
black marble stone, inscribed, ‘‘ Interiora Thomz Howard Comitis
Arondeliz.”’

2 Philip was the third son of Henry Frederick Baron Mowbray.
He entered the Church of Rome, as stated by Evelyn, and after-
wards rose to the dignity of Cardinal, and became Lord Almoner
to Catherine, consort of Charles II. He died in 1694.

1646) John Evelyn 217

In company, then, with Mr. Waller, one Captain Wray
(son of Sir Christopher, whose father had been in arms
against his Majesty, and therefore by no means welcome
to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and learned man, we
got that night to Vicenza, passing by the Euganéan hills,
celebrated for the prospects and furniture of rare simples,
which we found growing about them. The ways were
something deep, the whole country flat and even as a bowl-
ing-green. The common fields lie square, and are orderly
planted with fruit trees, which the vines run and embrace,
for many miles, with delicious streams creeping along the
ranges.

Vicenza is a city in the Marquisate of Treviso, yet apper-
taining to the Venetians, full of gentlemen and splendid
palaces, to which the famous Palladio, born here, has
exceedingly contributed, having been the architect. Most
conspicuous is the Hall of Justice; it has a tower of
excellent work; the lower pillars are of the first order;
these in the three upper corridors are Doric; under them,
are shops in a spacious piazza. The hall was built in
imitation of that at Padua, but of a nobler design, 4 la
moderne. The next morning, we visited the theatre, as
being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and built
by Palladio, in exact imitation of the ancient Romans, and
capable of containing 5000 spectators. The scene, which is
all of stone, represents an imperial city, the order Corinthian,
decorated with statues. Over the Scenario is inscribed,
‘* Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: Academia Theatrum hoc a
fundamentis erexit Paladio Architect: 1584.’’ The scene
declines eleven feet, the soffito painted with clouds. To this
there joins a spacious hall for solemn days to ballot in, and
a second for the Academics. In the Piazza is also the
podesta, or governor’s house, the facciata being of the
Corinthian order, very noble. The Piazza itself is so large
as to be capable of jousts and tournaments, the nobility of
this city being exceedingly addicted to this knight-errantry,
and other martial diversions. In this place are two pillars
in imitation of those at St. Mark’s at Venice, bearing one
of them a winged lion, the other the statue of St. John the
Baptist.

In a word, this sweet town has more well-built palaces
than any of its dimensions in all Italy, besides a number
begun and not yet finished (but of stately design) by reason:

218 Diary of [Venice

of the domestic dissensions betwixt them and those of
Brescia, fomented by the sage Venetians, lest by combin-
ing, they might think of recovering their ancient liberty.
For this reason, also, are permitted those disorders and
insolences committed at Padua among the youth of these
two territories. It is no dishonour in this country to be
some generations in finishing their palaces, that without
exhausting themselves by a vast expense at once, they
may at last erect a sumptuous pile. Count Oleine’s Palace
is near perfected in this manner. Count Ulmarini} is more
famous for his gardens, being without the walls, especially
his cedrario, or conserve of oranges, eleven score of my
paces long, set in order and ranges, making a canopy all
the way by their intermixing branches for more than 200
of. my single paces, and which, being full of fruit and
blossoms was a most delicious sight. In the middle of this
garden, was a cupola made of wire, supported by slender
pillars of brick, so closely covered with ivy, both without
and within, that nothing was to be perceived but green;
betwixt the arches there dangled festoons of the same.
Here is likewise a most inextricable labyrinth.

I had in this town recommendation to a very civil and
ingenious apothecary, called Angelico, who had a pretty
collection of paintings. I would fain have visited a Palace,
called the Rotunda, which was a mile out of town, belong-
ing to Count Martio Capra; but one of our companions
hastening to be gone, and little minding anything save
drinking and folly, caused us to take coach sooner than
we should have done.

A little from the town, we passed the Campo Martio, set
out in imitation of ancient Rome, wherein the nobles exer-
cised their horses, and the ladies make the Corso; it is —
entered by a stately triumphal arch, the invention of Pal-
ladio.

Being now set out for Verona, about midway we dined
at Ostaria Nova, and came late to our resting-place, which
was the Cavaletto, just over the monument of the Scala-
geri,2 formerly princes of Verona, adorned with many
devices in stone of ladders, alluding to the name.

Early next morning, we went about the city, which is
built on the gentle declivity, and bottom of a hill, environed
in part with some considerable mountains and downs of

1 Lassells (p. 435) calls him Valmerana. 2 Or della Scaia.

1646] John Evelyn 219

fine grass like some places in the south of England, and,
on the other side, having the rich plain where Caius Marius
overthrew the Cimbrians. The city is divided in the midst
by the river Adige, over which are divers stately bridges,
and on its banks are many goodly palaces, whereof one
is well painted in chiaro-oscuro on the outside, as are
divers in this dry climate of Italy.

The first thing that engaged our attention and wonder,
too, was the amphitheatre, which is the most entire of
ancient remains now extant. The inhabitants call it the
Arena: it has two porticos, one within the other, and is
thirty-four rods long, twenty-two in breadth, with forty-
two ranks of stone benches, or seats, which reach to the
top. The vastness of the marble stones is stupendous.
‘*L. V. Flaminius, Consul. anno. urb. con. Lim.’’ This I
esteem to be one of the noblest antiquities in Europe, it is
so vast and entire, having escaped the ruins of so many
other public buildings for above 1400 years.

There are other arches, as that of the victory of Marius;
temples, aqueducts, &c., showing still considerable remains
in several places of the town, and how magnificent it has
formerly been. It has three strong castles, and a large and
noble wall. Indeed, the whole city is bravely built, especi-
ally the Senate-house, where we saw those celebrated
statues of Cornelius Nepos, A’milius Marcus, Plinius, and
Vitruvius, all having honoured Verona by their birth; and,
of later date, Julius Cesar Scaliger, that prodigy of
learning.

In the evening we saw the garden of Count Giusti’s villa,
where are walks cut out of the main rock, from whence
we had the pleasant prospect of Mantua and Parma,
though at great distance. At the entrance of this garden,
grows the goodliest cypress, I fancy, in Europe, cut in a
pyramid; it is a prodigious tree both for breadth and
height, entirely covered, and thick to the base.

Dr. Cortone, a civilian, showed us, amongst other
rarities, a St. Dorothea, of Raphael. We could not see the
rare drawings, especially of Parmensis, belonging to Dr.
Marcello, another advocate, on account of his absence.

Verona deserved all those elogies Scaliger has honoured
it with; for, in my opinion, the situation is the most
delightful I ever saw, it is so sweetly mixed with rising

ground and valleys, so elegantly planted with trees on

J 320 I

220 Diary of [Verona

which Bacchus seems riding as it were in triumph every
autumn, for the vines reach from tree to tree; here, of all -
places I have seen in Italy, would I fix a residence. Well
has that learned man given it the name of the very eye of
the world:

Oscelle mundi, Sidus Itali cceli,
Flos Urbium, flos cornicuumq’ amcenum,
Quot sunt, eruntve, quot fuere, Verona.

The next morning we travelled over the downs where
Marius fought, and fancied ourselves about Winchester,
and the country towards Dorsetshire. We dined at an inn
called Cavalli Cashieri, near Peschiera, a very strong fort
of the Venetian Republic, and near the Lago di Garda,
which disembogues into that of Mantua, near forty miles
in length, highly spoken of by my Lord Arundel to me,
as the most pleasant spot in Italy, for which reason I
observed it with the more diligence, alighting out of the
coach, and going up to a grove of cypresses growing about
a gentleman’s country-house, from whence indeed it pre-
sents a most surprising prospect. The hills and gentle risings
about it produce oranges, citrons, olives, figs, and other
tempting fruits, and the waters abound in excellent fish,
especially trouts. In the middle of this lake, stands Ser-
monea, on an island; here Captain Wray bought a pretty
nag of the master of our inn where we dined, for eight —
pistoles, which his wife, our hostess, was so unwilling to
part with, that she did nothing but kiss and weep and hang
about the horse’s neck, till the captain rode away.

We came this evening to Brescia, which next morning
we traversed, according to our custom, in search of anti-
quities and new sights. Here, I purchased of old Lazarino
Cominazzo my fine carbine, which cost me nine pistoles,
this city being famous for these fire-arms, and that work-
man, Jo. Bap. Franco, the best esteemed. The city consists
most in artists, every shop abounding in guns, swords,
armourers, &c. Most of the workmen come out of Ger-
many. It stands in a fertile plain, yet the castle is built on
a hill. The streets abound in fair fountains. The Torre
della Pallada is of a noble Tuscan order, and the Senate-
house is inferior to few. The piazza is but indifferent ; some
of the houses arched as at Padua. The Cathedral was
under repair. We would from hence have visited Parma,

1646] John Evelyn 221

Piacenza, Mantua, &c.; but the banditti and other danger-
ous parties being abroad, committing many enormities, we
were contented with a Pisgah sight of them.

We dined next day, at Ursa Vecchia, and, after dinner,
passed by an exceeding strong fort of the Venetians, called
Ursa Nova, on their frontier. Then by the river Oglio, and
so by Sonano, where we enter the Spanish dominions, and
that night arrived at Crema, which belongs to Venice, and
is well-defended. The Podesta’s Palace is finely built, and
so is the Duomo, or Cathedral, and the tower to it, with
an ample piazza.

Early next day, after four miles’ riding, we entered into
the State of Milan, and passed by Lodi,! a great city
famous for cheese, little short of the best Parmeggiano.
We dined at Marignano, ten miles before coming to Milan,
where we met half-a-dozen suspicious cavaliers, who yet
did us no harm, Then, passing as through a continual
garden, we went on with exceeding pleasure; for it is the
Paradise of Lombardy, the highways as even and straight
as a line, the fields to a vast extent planted with fruit about
the enclosures, vines to every tree at equal distances, and
watered with frequent streams. There was likewise much
corn, and olives in abundance. At approach of the city,
some of our company, in dread of the Inquisition (severer
here than in all Spain), thought of throwing away some
Protestant books and papers. We arrived about three in
the afternoon, when the officers searched us thoroughly for
prohibited goods; but, finding we were only gentlemen
travellers, dismissed us for a small reward, and we went
quietly to our inn, the Three Kings, where, for that day,
we refreshed ourselves, as we had need. The next morn-
ing, we delivered our letters of recommendation to the
learned and courteous Ferrarius, a Doctor of the Ambrosian
College,? who conducted us to all the remarkable places of
the town, the first of which was the famous Cathedral. We

1 Celebrated in later years for the victory gained by Buonaparte
over the Austrians.

2 Francisco Bernardino Ferrari, born in 1577, and for his extensive
knowledge of books selected by Frederick Borromeo, Archbishop
of Milan, as a proper person to travel and collect books and
manuscripts for a noble library he was desirous of founding in
that city. He collected a great number of works in all classes of
literature, which, with later editions, has since been known as the

Ambrosian Library. He died in 1669.

222 Diary of [Milan

entered by a portico, so little inferior to that of Rome that,
when it is finished, it will be hard to say which is the
fairest; the materials are all of white and black marble,
with columns of great height, of Egyptian granite. The
outside of the church is so full of sculpture, that you may
number 4000 statues, all of white marble, amongst which
that of St. Bartholomew is esteemed a masterpiece. The |
church is very spacious, aimost as long as St. Peter’s at
Rome, but not so large. About the choir, the sacred
Story is finely sculptured, in snow-white marble, nor know
I where it is exceeded. About the body of the church are
the miracles of St. Charles Borromeo, and in the vault
beneath is his body before the high altar, grated, and
enclosed, in one of the largest crystals in Europe. To
this also belongs a rich treasure. The cupola is all of
marble within and without, and even covered with great
planks of marble, in the Gothic design. The windows are
most beautifully painted. Here are two very fair and
excellent organs. The fabric is erected in the midst of a |
fair piazza, and in the centre of the city.
Hence, we went to the Palace of the Archbishop, which |
is a quadrangle, the architecture of Theobaldi, who
designed much for Philip II. in the Escurial, and has built |
much in Milan. Hence, into the Governor’s Palace, who
was Constable of Castile. Tempted by the glorious tapes-
tries and pictures, | adventured so far alone, that peeping
into a chamber where the great man was under the barber’s
hands, he sent one of his negroes (a slave) to know what
I was. I made the best excuse I could, and that I was only
admiring the pictures, which he returning and telling his
lord, I heard the Governor reply that I was a spy; on
which I retired with all the speed I could, passed the guard
of Swiss, got into the street, and in a moment to my com-
pany, who were gone to the Jesuits’ Church, which in truth
is a noble structure, the front especially, after the modern.
After dinner, we were conducted to St. Celso, a church of
rare architecture, built by Bramante; the carvings of the
marble facciata are by Annibal Fontana, whom they esteem
at Milan equal to the best of the ancients. In a room
joining to the Church, is a marble Madonna, like a Colosse
of the same sculptor’s work, which they will not expose t
the air. There are two sacristias, in one of which is
fine Virgin, of Leonardo da Vinci; in the other is one o

1646] John Evelyn 223

Raphael d’Urbino, a piece which all the world admires.
The Sacristan showed us a world of rich plate, jewels, and
embroidered copes, which are kept in presses.

Next, we went to see the Great Hospital, a quadrangular
cloister of a vast compass, a truly royal fabric, with an
annual endowment of 50,000 crowns of gold. There is in
the middle of it a cross building for the sick, and, just
under it, an altar so placed as to be seen in all places of
the Infirmary.

There are divers colleges built in this quarter, richly
provided for by the same Borromeo and his nephew, the
last Cardinal Frederico, some not yet finished, but of
excellent design.

In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly lay the bodies
of the three Magi, since translated to Cologne in Germany ;
they, however, preserve the tomb, which is a square stone,
on which is engraven a star, and, under it, ‘‘ Sepulchrum
trium Magorum.”’

Passing by St. Laurence, we saw sixteen columns of
marble, and the ruins of a Temple of Hercules, with this
inscription yet standing :

Imp. Czsari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medio Parthico
Max. Trib. Pot. VII. Imp. [III. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij
Divi Hadriani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro-Nepoti Divi Nerve
Abnepoti Dec. Dec.

We concluded this day’s wandering at the Monastery of
Madonna delle Grazie, and in the refectory admired that
celebrated Cana Domini of Leonardo da Vinci, which
takes up the entire wall at the end, and is the same that
the great virtuoso, Francis the First of France, was so
enamoured of, that he consulted to remove the whole wall
by binding it about with ribs of iron and timber, to convey
it into France. It is indeed one of the rarest painting's
that was ever executed by Leonardo, who was long in
the service of that Prince, and so dear to him that the King
coming to visit him in his old age and sickness, he expired
in his arms. But this incomparable piece is now exceed-
ingly impaired.

1 The Painter’s Voyage, published in 1679, does not notice it; and
probably it was then almost invisible from decay. It has since been
frequently retouched, and it still remains in the refectory of the

monastery in which Evelyn saw it; but the damage received from
the dampness of the wall has left it but the most indistinct shadow

224 Diary of (Milan

Early next morning came the learned Dr. Ferrarius to
visit us, and took us in his coach to see the Ambrosian
Library, where Cardinal Fred. Borromeo has expended so
vast a sum on this building, and in furnishing with curi-
osities, especially paintings and drawings of inestimable
value amongst painters. It is a school fit to make the ablest
artists. There are many rare things of Hans Breugel, and |
amongst them the Four Elements. In this room, stands_
the glorious [boasting] inscription of Cavaliero Galeazzo
Arconati, valuing his gift to the library of several draw-
ings by Da Vinci; but these we could not see, the keeper
of them being out of town, and he always carrying the
keys with him; but my Lord Marshal, who had seen them,
told me all but one book are small, that a huge folio con-
tained 4oo leaves full of scratches of Indians, &c. But |
whereas the inscription pretends that our King Charles
had offered 1oool. for them,—the truth is, and my Lord
himself told me, that it was he who treated with Galeazzo
for himself, in the name and by permission of the King, |
and that the Duke of Feria, who was then Governor, |
should make the bargain; but my Lord, having seen them |
since, did not think them of so much worth.

In the great room, where is a goodly library, on the right
hand of the door, is a small wainscot closet, furnished with
rare manuscripts. Two original letters of the Grand Signor
were showed us, sent to two Popes, one of which was
(as I remember) to Alexander VI. [Borgia], and the other
mentioning the head of the lance which pierced our Blessed
Saviour’s side, as a present to the Pope: I would feign
have gotten a copy of them, but could not; I hear, how-
ever, that they are since translated into Italian, and that
therein is a most honourable mention of Christ.

We re-visited St. Ambrose’s church. The high altar is
supported by four porphyry columns, and under it lie the
remains of that holy man. Near it they showed us a pit,
or well (an obscure place it is), where they say St. Ambrose
baptized St. Augustine, and recited the Te Deum; for so
imports the inscription. The place is also famous for some
of what it once was. This, however, is less to be deplored since
the magnificent print of it by Raphael Morghen, justly esteemed one
of the finest works of art in this kind that has ever been executed.
The old previous engraving from it by Peter Soutman by no means

exhibited a true delineation of the characters of the piece, as nobly
designed by Leonardo.

1646) John Evelyn 225

Councils that have been held there, and for the coronation
of divers Italian Kings and Emperors, receiving the iron
crown from the Archbishop of this see.1 They show the
History by Josephus, written on the bark of trees. The
high altar is wonderfully rich.

Milan is one of the most princely cities in Europe: it
has no suburbs, but is circled with a stately wall for ten
miles, in the centre of a country that seems to flow with
milk and honey. The air is excellent; the fields fruitful
to admiration, the market abounding with all sorts of
provisions. In the city are near 100 churches, 71 mon-
asteries, and 40,000 inhabitants; it is of a circular figure,
fortified with bastions, full of sumptuous palaces and rare
artists, especially for works in crystal, which is here cheap,
being found among the Alps. They have curious straw-
work among the nuns, even to admiration. It has a good
river, and a citadel at some small distance from the city,
commanding it, of great strength for its works and muni-
tion of all kinds. It was built by Galeatius the Second,
and consists of four bastions, and works at the angles and
fronts; the graff is faced with brick to a very great depth;
has two strong towers as one enters, and within is another
fort, and spacious lodgings for the soldiers, and for exer-
cising them. Noaccommodation for strength is wanting, and
all exactly uniform. They have here also all sorts of work
and tradesmen, a great magazine of arms and provisions.
The fosse is of spring water, with a mill for grinding corn,
and the ramparts vaulted underneath. Don Juan Vasques
Coronada was now Governor; the garrison Spaniards only.

There is nothing better worth seeing than the collection
of Signor Septalla,? a canon of St. Ambrose, famous over
Christendom for his learning and virtues. Amongst other
things, he showed us an Indian wood, that has the perfect
scent of civet; a flint, or pebble, that has a quantity of
water in it, which is plainly to be seen, it being clear as
agate; divers crystals that have water moving in them,
some of them having plants, leaves, and hog’s bristles in
them; much amber full of insects, and divers things of
woven amianthus.3

1 Buonaparte afterwards took it, and placed it on his own head.

® Painter’s Voyage particularises 85 pictures in this Collection,
but few of them by great masters.

83 There are two descriptive Catalogues of the Museum, in its
day one of the most celebrated in all Italy; both are in small quarto,

226 Diary of (Milan

Milan is a sweet place, and though the streets are
narrow, they abound in rich coaches, and are full of
noblesse, who frequent the course every night. Walking
a turn in the portico before the dome, a cavaliero who
passed by, hearing some of us speaking English, looked
a good while earnestly on us, and by and bye sending
his servant, desired we would honour him the next day at
dinner. We looked on this as an odd invitation, he not
speaking to us himself, but we returned his civility with
thanks, though not fully resolved what to do, or indeed
what might be the meaning of it in this jealous place; but
on enquiry, it was told us he was a Scots Colonel, who had
an honourable command in the city, so that we agreed to
go. This afternoon, we were wholly taken up in seeing an
opera represented by some Neapolitans, performed all in
excellent music with rare scenes, in which there acted a
celebrated beauty.

Next morning, we went to the Colonel's, who had sent
his servant again to conduct us to his house, which we
found to be a noble palace, richly furnished. There were
other guests, all soldiers, one of them a Scotchman, but
we could not learn one of their names. At dinner, he
excused his rudeness that he had not himself spoken to us ;
telling us it was his custom, when he heard of any English
travellers (who but rarely would be known to pass through
that city for fear of the Inquisition), to invite them to his
house, where they might be free. We had a sumptuous
dinner; and the wine was so tempting, that after some
healths had gone about, and we had risen from table, the
Colonel led us into his hall, where there hung up divers
colours, saddles, bridles, pistols, and other arms, being
trophies which he had taken with his own hands from the
enemy; amongst them, he would needs bestow a pair of
pistols on Captain Wray, one of our fellow-travellers,
and a good drinking gentleman, and on me a Turkish
bridle woven with silk and very curiously embossed,
with other silk trappings, to which hung a half moon
the one in Latin, the later and most complete one in Italian; to
which is prefixed a large inside view of the Museum, exhibiting
its curious contents of busts, statues, pictures, urns, and every kind
of rarity, natural and artificial.

Keysler, in his Travels, laments the not being able to see it, on

account of a law-suit then depending; and, probably in consequence
of that law-suit, it has now been long dispersed.

1646] John Evelyn 227

finely wrought, which he had taken from a _ bashaw
whom he had slain. With this glorious spoil, I rid the
rest of my journey as far as Paris, and brought it after-
wards into England. He then showed us a stable of brave
horses, with his menage and cavalerizzo. Some of the
horses he caused to be brought out, which he mounted,
and performed all the motions of an excellent horseman.
When this was done, and he had alighted,—contrary to
the advice of his groom and page, who knew the nature
of the beast, and that their master was a little spirited
with wine, he would have a fiery horse that had not yet
been managed and was very ungovernable, but was other-
wise a very beautiful creature; this he mounting, the horse,
getting the reins in a full carriére, rose so desperately that
he fell quite back, crushing the Colonel so forcibly against
the wall of the menage, that though he sat on him like
a Centaur, yet recovering the jade on all fours again, he
desired to be taken down and so led in, where he cast him-
self on a pallet; and, with infinite lamentations, after some
time we took leave of him, being now speechless. The next
morning, going to visit him, we found before the door the
canopy which they usually carry over the host, and some
with lighted tapers; which made us suspect he was in very
sad condition, and so indeed we found him, an Irish Friar
standing by his bedside as confessing him, or at least
disguising a confession, and other ceremonies used in
extremis; for we afterwards learned that the gentleman
was a Protestant, and had this Friar, his confidant; which
was a dangerous thing at Milan, had it been but suspected.
At our entrance, he sighed grievously, and held up his
hands, but was not able to speak. After vomiting some
blood, he kindly took us all by the hand, and made signs
that he should see us no more, which made us take our
leave of him with extreme reluctancy and affliction for the
accident. This sad disaster made us consult about our
departure as soon as we could, not knowing how we might
be inquired after, or engaged, the Inquisition being so
cruelly formidable and inevitable, on the least suspicion.
The next morning, therefore, discharging our lodgings,
we agreed for a coach to carry us to the foot of the Alps,
not a little concerned for the death of the Colonel, which
we now heard of, and who had so courteously entertained
us.

] 220 *y

228 Diary of [Sesto

The first day we got as far as Castellanza, by which runs
a considerable river into Lago Maggiore; here, at dinner,
were two or three Jesuits, who were very pragmatical and
inquisitive, whom we declined conversation with as
decently as we could: so we pursued our journey through
a most fruitful plain, but the weather was wet and uncom:
fortable. At night, we lay at Sesto.

The next morning, leaving our coach, we embarked in
a boat to carry us over the lake (being one of the largest
in Europe), and whence we could see the towering Alps,
and amongst them the great San Bernardo, esteemed the
highest mountain in Europe, appearing to be some miles
above the clouds. Through this vast water, passes the
river Ticinus, which discharges itself into the Po, by which
means Helvetia transports her merchandizes into Italy,
which we now begin to leave behind us.

Having now sailed about two leagues, we were hauled
ashore at Arona, a strong town belonging to the Duchy of
Milan, where, being examined by the Governor, and pay-
ing a small duty, we were dismissed. Opposite to this fort,
is Angiera, another small town, the passage very pleasant
with the prospect of the Alps covered with pine and fir-
trees, and above them snow. We passed the pretty Island
Isabella, about the middle of the lake, on which is a fair
house built on a mount; indeed, the whole island is a
mount ascended by several terraces and walks all set above
with orange and citron trees.

The next we saw was Isola,! and we left on our right
hand the Isle of St. Jovanni;! and so sailing by another
small town built also on an island, we arrived at night at
Margazzo, an obscure village at the end of the lake, and
at the very foot of the Alps, which now rise as it were
suddenly after some hundreds of miles of the most even
country in the world, and where there is hardly a stone
to be found, as if Nature had here swept up the rubbish of
the earth in the Alps, to form and clear the plains of Lom-
bardy, which we had hitherto passed since our coming
from Venice. In this wretched place, I lay on a bed stuffed
with leaves, which made such a crackling, and did so prick
my skin through the tick, that I could not sleep. The next
morning, I was furnished with an ass, for we could not get.

1 These are the Boromean Islands in the Lago Maggiore, belong:
ing to the great Milanese family of Borromeo.

1646] John Evelyn 229

horses; instead of stirrups, we had ropes tied with a loop
to put our feet in, which supplied the place of other trap-
pings. Thus, with my gallant steed, bridled with my
Turkish present, we passed through a reasonably pleasant
but very narrow valley, till we came to Duomo, where we
rested, and, having showed the Spanish pass, the Governor
would press another on us, that his Secretary might get a
crown. Here we exchanged our asses for mules, sure-
footed on the hills and precipices, being accustomed to
pass them. Hiring a guide, we were brought that night
through very steep, craggy, and dangerous passages to a
village called Vedra, being the last of the King of Spain’s
dominions in the Duchy of Milan. We had a very infamous
wretched lodging.

The next morning, we mounted again through strange,
horrid, and fearful crags and tracts, abounding in pine-
trees, and only inhabited by bears, wolves, and wild goats ;
nor could we anywhere see above a pistol-shot before us,
the horizon being terminated with rocks and mountains,
whose tops, covered with snow, seemed to touch the skies,
and in many places pierced the clouds. Some of these vast
mountains were but one entire stone, betwixt whose clefts
now and then precipitated great cataracts of melted snow,
and other waters, which made a terrible roaring, echoing
from the rocks and cavities; and these waters in some
places breaking in the fall, wet us as if we had passed
through a mist, so as we could neither see nor hear one
another, but, trusting to our honest mules, we jogged on
our way. The narrow bridges, in some places made only by
felling huge fir-trees, and laying them athwart from moun-
tain to mountain, over cataracts of stupendous depth, are
very dangerous, and so are the passages and edges made
by cutting away the main rock; others in steps; and in
some places we pass between mountains that have been
broken and fallen on one another; which is very terrible,
and one had need of a sure foot and steady head to climb
some of these precipices, besides that they are harbours
for bears and wolves, who have sometimes assaulted travel-
lers. In these straits, we frequently alighted, now freezing
in the snow, and anon frying by the reverberation of the
sun against the cliffs as we descend lower, when we meet
now and then a few miserable cottages so built upon the
declining of the rocks, as one would expect their sliding

230 Diary of [Vedra

down. Amongst these, inhabit a goodly sort of people,
having monstrous gullets, or wens of flesh, growing to
their throats, some of which I have seen as big as an
hundred pound bag of silver hanging under their chins;
among the women especially, and that so ponderous, as
that to ease them, many wear linen cloth bound about
their head, and coming under the chin to support it; but
quis tumidum guttur miratur in Alpibus? Their drinking ©
so much snow-water, is thought to be the cause of it; the |
men, using more wine, are not so strumous as the women.
The truth is, they are a peculiar race of people, and many
great water-drinkers here have not these prodigious
tumours; it runs, as we say, in the blood, and is a vice in
the race, and renders them so ugly, shrivelled and |
deformed, by its drawing the skin of the face down, that |
nothing can be more frightful; to this add a strange puff-
ing dress, furs, and that barbarous language, being a
mixture of corrupt High German, French, and Italian.
The people are of great stature, extremely fierce and rude,
yet very honest and trusty.

This night, through almost inaccessible heights, we}
came in prospect of Mons Sempronius, now Mount Sam-
pion, which has on its summit a few huts and a chapel. |
Aproaching this, Captain Wray’s water-spaniel (a huge
filthy cur that had followed him out of England) hunted a
herd of goats down the rocks into a river made by the
melting of the snow. Arrived at our cold harbour (though
the house had a stove in every room) and supping on
cheese and milk with wretched wine, we went to bed in
cupboards! so high from the floor, that we climbed them
by a ladder; we were covered with feathers, that is, we
lay between two ticks stuffed with them, and all little
enough to keep one warm. The ceilings of the rooms are
strangely low for those tall people. The house was now
(in September) half covered with snow, nor is there a tree,
or a bush, growing within many miles.

From this uncomfortable place, we prepared to hasten
away the next morning; but, as we were getting on our
mules, comes a huge young fellow demanding money for
a goat which he affirmed that Captain Wray’s dog ha
killed; expostulating the matter, and impatient of staying
in the cold, we set spurs and endeavoured to ride away,

1 They have such in Wales.

1646] John Evelyn 231

when a multitude of people being by this time gotten
together about us (for it being Sunday morning and attend-
ing for the priest to say mass), they stopped our mules,
beat us off our saddles, and, disarming us of our carbines,
drew us into one of the rooms of our lodging, and set a
guard upon us. Thus we continued prisoners till mass was
ended, and then came half a score grim Swiss, who, taking
on them to be magistrates, sate down on the table, and
condemned us to pay a pistole for the goat, and ten more
for attempting to ride away, threatening that if we did not
pay it speedily, they would send us to prison, and keep us
to a day of public justice, where, as they perhaps would
have exaggerated the crime, for they pretended we had
primed our carbines and would have shot some of them (as
indeed the Captain was about to do), we might have had
our heads cut off, as we were told afterwards, for that
amongst these rude people a very small misdemeanour does
often meet that sentence. Though the proceedings
appeared highly unjust,! on consultation among ourselves
we thought it safer to rid ourselves out of their hands, and
the trouble we were brought into; and therefore we
patiently laid down the money, and with fierce counte-
nances had our mules and arms delivered to us, and glad
we were to escape as we did. This was cold entertainment,
but our journey after was colder, the rest of the way having
been (as they told us) covered with snow since the Creation ;
no man remembered it to be without; and because, by the
frequent snowing, the tracts are continually filled up, we
passed by several tall masts set up to guide travellers, so
as for many miles they stand in ken of one another, like
to our beacons. In some places, where there is a cleft
between two mountains the snow fills it up, whilst the
bottom, being thawed, leaves as it were a frozen arch of
snow, and that so hard as to bear the greatest weight; for
as it snows often, so it perpetually freezes, of which I was
so sensible that it flawed the very skin of my face.
Beginning now to descend a little, Captain Wray’s horse
(that was our sumpter and carried all our baggage) plung-
ing through a bank of loose snow, slid down a frightful
precipice, which so incensed the choleric cavalier, his
master, that he was sending a brace of bullets into the

1 Surely these poor people had the right upon their side, and this
is not expressed with Evelyn’s usual liberality.

232 Diary of [Mount Sampion

poor beast, lest our guide should recover him, and run
away with his burden; but, just as he was lifting up his
carbine, we gave such a shout, and so pelted the horse with
snow-balls, as with all his might plunging through the
snow, he fell from another steep place into another bottom,
near a path we were to pass. It was yet a good while ere
we got to him, but at last we recovered the place, and,
easing him of his charge, hauled him out of the snow,
where he had been certainly frozen in, if we had not pre-
vented it, before night. It was as we judged almost two
miles that he had slid and fallen, yet without any other
harm than the benumbing of his limbs for the present, but,
with lusty rubbing and chafing he began to move, and,
after a little walking, performed his journey well enough.
All this way, affrighted with the disaster of this horse, we
trudged on foot, driving our mules before us ; sometimes we
fell, sometimes we slid, through this ocean of snow, which
after October is impassable. Towards night, we came into
a larger way, through vast woods of pines, which clothe
the middle parts of these rocks. Here, they were burning
some to make pitch and rosin, peeling the knotty branches,
as we do to make charcoal, reserving what melts from
them, which hardens into pitch. We passed several
cascades of dissolved snow, that had made channels of
formidable depth in the crevices of the mountains, and
with such a fearful roaring as we could hear it for seven
long miles. It is from these sources that the Rhone and the
Rhine, which pass through all France and Germany,
derive their originals. Late at night, we got to a town
called Briga, at the foot of the Alps, in the Valteline.
Almost every door had nailed on the outside and next the
street a bear’s, wolf’s, or fox’s head, and divers of them
all three; a savage kind of sight, but, as the Alps are full
of the beasts, the people often kill them. The next morn-
ing, we returned to our guide, and took fresh mules, and
another to conduct us to the Lake of Geneva, passing
through as pleasant a country as that we had just travelled
was melancholy and troublesome. A strange and sudden
change it seemed; for the reverberation of the sunbeams
from the mountains and rocks that like walls range it on
both sides, not above two flight-shots in breadth, for a
very great number of miles, renders the passage exces-
sively hot. Through such extremes we continued our

1646] John Evelyn 233

journey, that goodly river, the Rhone, gliding by us ina
narrow and quiet channel almost in the middle of this
Canton, fertilizing the country for grass and corn, which
grow here in abundance.

We arrived this night at Sion, a pretty town and city,
bishop’s seat, and the head of Valesia. There is a Ae
and the bishop who resides in it, has both civil and eccle-
siastical jurisdiction. Our host, as the custom of these
Cantons is, was one of the chiefest of the town, and had
been a Colonel in France; he treated us with extreme
civility, and was so displeased at the usage we received at
Mount Sampion, that he would needs give us a letter to
the Governor of the country, who resided at St. Maurice,
which was in our way to Geneva, to revenge the affront.
This was a true old blade, and had been a very curious
virtuoso, as we found by a handsome collection of books,
medals, pictures, shells, and other antiquities. He showed
two heads and horns of the true capricorn, which anima!
he told us was frequently killed among the mountains; one
branch of them was as much as I could well lift, and near
as high as my head, not much unlike the greater sort of
goat's, save that they bent forwards, by help whereof they
climb up and hang on inaccessible rocks, from whence the
inhabitants now and then shoot them. They speak pro-
digious things of their leaping from crag to crag, and of
their sure footing, notwithstanding their being cloven-
footed, unapt (one would think) to take hold and walk so
steadily on those horrible ridges as they do. The Colonel
would have given me one of these beams, but the want of
a convenience to carry it along with me, caused me to
refuse his courtesy. He told me that in the castle there
were some Roman and Christian antiquities, and he had
some inscriptions in his own garden. He invited us to
his country-house, where he said he had better pictures,
and other rarities; but, our time being short, I could not
persuade my companions to stay and visit the places he
would have had us see, nor the offer he made to show us
the hunting of the bear, wolf, and other wild beasts. The
next morning, having presented his daughter, a pretty well-
fashioned young woman, with a small ruby ring, we parted
somewhat late from our generous host.

Passing through the same pleasant valley between the
horrid mountains on either hand, like a gallery many miles

234 Diary of [Martigni

in length, we got to Martigni, where also we were well
entertained. The houses in this country are all built of
fir boards, planed within, low, and seldom above one story.
The people very clownish and rusticly clad, after a very
odd fashion, for the most part in blue cloth, very whole
and warm, with little variety of distinction betwixt the
gentleman and common sort, by a law of their country
being exceedingly frugai. Add to this their great honesty
and fidelity, though exacting enough for what they part
with. I saw not one beggar. We paid the value of twenty
shillings English, for a day’s hire of one horse. Every man
goes with a sword by his side, the whole country well-
disciplined, and indeed impregnable, which made the
Romans have such ill success against them; one lusty Swiss
at their narrow passages is sufficient to repel a legion. It
is a frequent thing here for a young tradesman, or farmer,
to leave his wife and children for twelve or fifteen years,
and seek his fortune in the wars in Spain, France, Italy,
or Germany, and then return again to work. I look upon |
this country to be the safest spot of all Europe, neither —
envied nor envying; nor are any of them rich, nor poor; —
they live in great simplicity and tranquillity; and, though |
of the fourteen Cantons half be Roman Catholics, the rest
Reformed, yet they mutually agree, and are confederate |
with Geneva, and are its only security against its potent
neighbours, as they themselves are from being attacked
by the greater potentates, by the mutual jealousy of their
neighbours, as either of them would be overbalanced,
should the Swiss, who are wholly mercenary and auxili-
aries, be subjected to France or Spain.

We were now arrived at St. Maurice, a large handsome
town and residence of the President, where justice is done.
To him we presented our letter from Sion, and made known
the ill-usage we had received for killing a wretched goat,
which so incensed him, as he sware if we would stay he
would not only help us to our money again, but most
severely punish the whole rabble; but our desire of revenge
had by this time subsided, and glad we were to be gotten
so near France, which we reckoned as good as home. He
courteously invited us to dine with him; but we excused —
ourselves, and, returning to our inn, whilst we were eating
something before we took horse, the Governor had caused
two pages to bring us a present of two great vessels of

1646) John Evelyn 235

covered plate full of excellent wine, in which we drank his
health, and rewarded the youths; they were two vast bowls
supported by two Swisses, handsomely wrought after the
German manner. This civility and that of our host at Sion,
perfectly reconciled us to the highlanders; and so, pro-
ceeding on our journey, we passed this afternoon through
the gate which divides the Valais from the Duchy of Savoy,
into which we were now entering, and so, through Montei,
we arrived that evening at Beveretta. Being extremely
weary and complaining of my head, and finding little
accommodation in the house, I caused one of our hostess’s
daughters to be removed out of her bed, and went immedi-
ately into it whilst it was yet warm, being so heavy with
pain and drowsiness that I would not stay to have the
sheets changed; but I shortly after paid dearly for my im-
patience, falling sick of the small-pox so soon as I came to
Geneva, for by the smell of frankincense and the tale the
good women told me of her daughter having had an ague,
] afterwards concluded she had been newly recovered of
the small-pox. Notwithstanding this, I went with my
company the next day, hiring a bark to carry us over the
Jake; and indeed sick as I was, the weather was so serene
and bright, the water so calm, and air so temperate, that
never had travellers a sweeter passage. Thus, we sailed
the whole length of the lake, about thirty miles, the coun-
tries bordering on it (Savoy and Berne) affording one of the
most delightful prospects in the world, the Alps covered
with snow, though at a great distance, yet showing their
aspiring tops. Through this lake, the river Rhodanus
passes with that velocity as not to mingle with its exceed-
ing deep waters, which are very clear, and breed the most
celebrated trout for largeness and goodness of any in
Europe. I have ordinarily seen one of three feet in length
sold in the market for a small price, and such we had in the
iodging where we abode, which was at the White Cross.
All this while, I held up tolerably; and the next morning
having a letter for Signor John Diodati, the famous Italian
minister and translator of the Holy Bible into that lan-
guage, I went to his house, and had a great deal of dis-
course with that learned person. He told me he had been
in England, driven by tempest into Deal, whilst sailing
for Holland, that he had seen London, and was exceed-
ingly taken with the civilities he received. He so much

236 Diary of [Beveretta

approved of our Church-government by Bishops, that he
told me the French Protestants would make no scruple
to submit to it and all its pomp, had they a King of the
Reformed religion as we had. He exceedingly deplored the
difference now between his Majesty and the Parliament.
After dinner, came one Monsieur Saladine, with his little
pupil, the Earl of Caernarvon,! to visit us, offering to
carry us to the principal places of the town; but, being
now no more able to hold up my head, I was constrained
to keep my chamber, imagining that my very eyes would
have dropped out; and this night I felt such a stinging
about me, that I could not sleep. In the morning, I was
very ill, but sending for a doctor, he persuaded me to be
let blood. He was a very learned old man, and, as he said,
he had been physician to Gustavus the Great, King of
Sweden, when he passed this way into Italy, under the name
of Monsieur Gars, the initial letters of Gustavus Adolphus
Rex Sueciz, and of our famous Duke of Buckingham, on
his returning out of Italy. He afterwards acknowledged
that he should not have bled me, had he suspected the
small-pox, which brake out a day after. He afterwards
purged me, and applied leeches, and God knows what this
would have produced, if the spots had not appeared, for he
was thinking of blooding me again. They now kept me
warm in bed for sixteen days, tended by a vigilant Swiss
matron, whose monstrous throat, when I sometimes
awaked out of unquiet slumbers, would affright me. After
the pimples were come forth, which were not many, I had
much ease as to pain, but infinitely afflicted with heat and
noisomeness. By God’s mercy, after five weeks’ keeping
my chamber, I went abroad. Monsieur Saladine and his
lady sent me many refreshments. Monsieur Le Chat, my
physician, to excuse his letting me blood, told me it was so
burnt and vicious as it would have proved the plague, or
spotted fever, had he proceeded by any other method. On
my recovering sufficiently to go abroad, I dined at Mon-
sieur Saladine’s, and in the afternoon went across the water
on the side of the lake, and took a lodging that stood
exceedingly pleasant, about half a mile from the city for

1 Charles, third Baron Dormer, succeeded, in September, 1643, as
second Earl of Carnarvon; his father having been killed at Newbury,
where he was in arms for the King as a general of Horse. He died
on the 29th of September, 1709.

1646) John Evelyn 239

the better airing; but I stayed only one night, having no
company there, save my pipe; so, the next day, I caused
them to row me about the lake as far as the great stone,
which they call Neptune’s Rock, on which they say sacrifice
was anciently offered to him. Thence, I landed at certain
cherry-gardens and pretty villas by the side of the lake,
and exceedingly pleasant. Returning, I visited their con-
servatories of fish; in which were trouts of six and seven
feet long, as they affirmed,

The Rhone, which parts the city in the midst, dips into a
cavern underground, about six miles from it, and after-
wards rises again, and runs its open course, like our Mole,
or Swallow, by Dorking, in Surrey. The next morning
(being Thursday) I heard Dr. Diodati preach in Italian,
many of that country, especially of Lucca, his native place,
being inhabitants of Geneva, and of the Reformed religion.

The town lying between Germany, France, and Italy,
those three tongues are familiarly spoken by the inhabit-
ants. It is a strong, well-fortified city, part of it built on a
rising ground. The houses are not despicable, but the high
pent-houses (for I can hardly call them cloisters, being all
of wood), through which the people pass dry and in the
shade, winter and summer, exceedingly deform the fronts
of the buildings. Here are abundance of booksellers; but
their books are of ill impressions; these, with watches (of
which store are made here), crystal, and excellent screwed
guns, are the staple commodities. All provisions are good
and cheap.

The town-house is fairly built of stone; the portico has
four black marble columns; and, on a table of the same,
under the city arms, a demi-eagle and cross, between cross-

keys, is a motto, ‘‘ Post Tenebras Lux,’’ and this inscrip-
tion:

Quum anno 1535 profligata Romana Anti-Christi Tyrannide, abro-
gatisq; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hic in
suam puritatem, Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei beneficio
reposita, et simul pulsis fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa in suam liber-
tatem, non sine insigni miraculo, restituta fuerit; Senatus Populusq;
Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuze memoriz caus4, fieri atque
hoc loco erigi curavit, quod suam erga Deum gratitudinem ad
posteros testatum fuerit.

The territories about the town are not so large as many
ordinary gentlemen have about their country farms, fo:

2 38 Diary of [Geneva

which cause they are in continual watch, especially on the
Savoy side; but, in case of any siege the Swiss are at
hand, as this inscription in the same place shows, towards
the street :

D.O.M.S.

Anno a verA Religione divinittds cum veteri Libertate Geneve
restituta, et quasi novo Jubilzo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et foris
insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et cum Helvetiorum Primari
Tigurini zquo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum venerint, et
veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum novo adstrinxerint,
S.P.Q.G. quod felix esse velit D.O.M. tanti benificii monumentum
consecrdrunt, anno temporis ultimi CCO.10,xxxIVv.

In the Senate-house, were fourteen ancient urns, dug up
as they were removing earth in the fortifications.

A little out of the town is a spacious field, which they |
call Campus Martius; and well it may be so termed, with
better reason, than that at Rome at present (which is no |
more a field but all built into streets), for here on every
Sunday, after the evening devotions, this precise people
permit their youth to exercise arms, and shoot in guns, and |
in the long and cross bows, in which they are exceedingly
expert, reputed to be as dexterous as any people in the world.
To encourage this, they yearly elect him who has won most
prizes at the mark, to be their king, as the king of the
long-bow, gun, or cross-bow. He then wears that weapon
in his hat in gold, with a crown over it, made fast to the
hat like a brooch. In this field, is a long house wherein
their arms and furniture are kept in several places very
neatly. To this joins a hall, where, at certain times, they
meet and feast; in the glass-windows are the arms and
names of their kings [of arms]. At the side of the field, is |
a very noble Pall-Mall, but it turns with an elbow. There
is also a bowling-place, a tavern, and a trey-table, and here ©
they ride their menaged horses. It is also the usual place
of public execution of those who suffer for any capital
crime, though committed in another country, by which
law divers fugitives have been put to death, who have fled
hither to escape punishment in their own country.
Amongst other severe punishments here, adultery is death.
Having seen this field, and played a game at mall, I supped
with Mr. Saladine.

On Sunday, I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and
after the Frenchsmode, in a gown with a cape, and his hat

1646] John Evelyn 239

on. The Church Government is severely Presbyterian, after
the discipline of Calvin and Beza, who set it up, but nothing
so rigid as either our Scots or English sectaries of that
denomination. In the afternoon, Monsieur Morice, a most
learned young person and excellent poet, chief Professor of
the University, preached at St. Peter’s, a spacious Gothic
fabric. This was heretofore a cathedral and a reverend
pile. It has four turrets, on one of which stands a con-
tinual sentinel; in another, cannons are mounted. The
church is very decent within; nor have they at all defaced
the painted windows, which are full of pictures of saints;
nor the stalls, which are all carved with the history of our
Blessed Saviour.

In the afternoon, I went to see the young townsmen
exercise in Mars’ Field, where the prizes were pewter-
plates and dishes; ’tis said that some have gained com-
petent estates by what they have thus won. Here I first
saw huge balistz, or cross-bows, shot in, being such as
they formerly used in wars, before great guns were known;
they were placed in frames, and had great screws to bend
them, doing execution at an incredible distance. They were
most accurate at the long-bow and musket, rarely missing
the smallest mark. I was as busy with the carbine |
brought from Brescia as any of them. After every shot, 1
found them go into a long house, and cleanse their guns,
before they charged again.

On Monday, I was invited to a little garden without the
works, where were many rare tulips, anemones, and other
choice flowers. The Rhone, running athwart the town out
of the Lake, makes half the city a suburb, which, in imita-
tion of Paris, they call St. Germain’s Fauxbourg, and it
has a church of the same name. On two wooden bridges
that cross the river are several water-mills, and shops of
trades, especially smiths and cutlers; between the bridges
is an island, in the midst of which is a very ancient tower,
said to have been built by Julius Cesar. At the end of the
other bridge is the mint, and a fair sun-dial.

Passing again by the Town-house, I saw a large croco-
dile hanging in chains; and against the wal! of one of the
chambers, seven judges were painted without hands,
except one in the middle, who has but one hand; I know
not the story. The Arsenal is at the end of this building,
well-furnished and kept.

240 Diary of (Geneva

After dinner, Mr. Morice led us to the college, a fair
structure; in the lower part are the schools, which consist
of nine classes; and a hall above, where the students
assemble; also a good library. They showed us a very
ancient Bible, of about 300 years old, in the vulgar French,
and a MS. in the old Monkish character: here have the
Professors their lodgings. I also went to the Hospital,
which is very commodious; but the Bishop’s Palace is now
a prison.

This town is not much celebrated for beautiful women,
for, even at this distance from the Alps, the gentlewomen
have something full throats; but our Captain Wray (after-
wards Sir William, eldest son of that Sir Christopher, who
had both been in arms against his Majesty for the Parlia-
ment) fell so mightily in love with one of Monsieur Sala-
dine’s daughters that, with much persuasion, he could not
be prevailed on to think on his journey into France, the
season now coming on extremely hot.

My sickness and abode here cost me forty-five pistoles
of gold to my host, and five to my honest doctor, who for
six weeks’ attendance and the apothecary thought it so
generous a reward that, at my taking leave, he presented
me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written
with his own hand in Latin. This regimen I much
observed, and I bless God passed the journey without in-
convenience from sickness, but it was an extraordinarily
hot unpleasant season and journey, by reason of the craggy
ways.

5th July. We took, or rather purchased, a boat, for it
could not be brought back against the stream of the Rhone.
We were two days going to Lyons, passing many admir-
able prospects of rocks and cliffs, and near the town down
a very steep declivity of water for a full mile. From Lyons,
we proceeded the next morning, taking horse to Roanne,
and lay that night at Feurs. At Roanne, we indulged our-
selves with the best that all France affords, for here the
provisions are choice and plentiful, so as the supper we
had might have satisfied a prince. We lay in damask beds,
and were treated like emperors. The town is one of the ©
neatest built in all France, on the brink of the Loire; and
here we agreed with an old fisher to row us as far as
Orleans. The first night, we came as far as Nevers, early
enough to see the town, the Cathedral (St. Cyre), the —

1646] John Evelyn 241

Jesuits’ College, and the Castle, a Palace of the Duke’s,
with the bridge to it nobly built.

The next day, we passed by La Charité, a pretty town,
somewhat distant from the river. Here I lost my faithful
spaniel Piccioli, who had followed me from Rome. It seems
he had been taken up by some of the Governor’s pages,
or footmen, without recovery; which was a great dis-
pleasure to me, because the cur had many useful qualities.

The next day, we arrived at Orleans, taking our turns to
row, of which I reckon my share came to little less than
twenty leagues. Sometimes, we footed it through pleasant
fields and meadows; sometimes, we shot at fowls, and other
birds ; nothing came amiss : sometimes, we played at cards,
whilst others sung, or were composing verses; for we had
the great poet, Mr. Waller, in our company, and some
other ingenious persons.

At Orleans, we abode but one day; the next, leaving our
mad Captain behind us, I arrived at Paris, rejoiced that,
after so many disasters and accidents in a tedious peregri-
nation, I was gotten so near home, and here I resolved
to rest myself before I went further.

It was now October, and the only time in my whole
life that I spent most idly, tempted from my more profitable
recesses; but I soon recovered my better resolutions and
fell to my study, learning the High Dutch and Spanish
tongues, and now and then refreshing my dancing, and
such exercises as I had long omitted, and which are not
in much reputation amongst the sober Italians.

1647: 28th January. I changed my lodging in the
Place de Monsieur de Metz, near the Abbey of St. Ger-
mains; and thence, on the 12th February, to another in
Rue Columbier, where I had a very fair apartment, which
cost me four pistoles per month. The 18th, I frequented
a course of Chemistry, the famous Monsieur Le Febure
operating upon most of the nobler processes. March 3rd,
Monsieur Mercure began to teach me on the lute, though to
small perfection.

In May, I fell sick, and had very weak eyes; for which
I was four times let blood.

22nd May. My valet (Herbert) robbed me of clothes and
plate, to the value of three score pounds; but, through the
diligence of Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty’s Resident at
the Court of France, and with whose lady and family I

242 Diary of (Paris

had contracted a great friendship (and particularly set my
affections on a daughter), I recovered most of them, obtain-
ing of the Judge, with no small difficulty, that the process
against the thief should not concern his life, being his first
offence.

roth June. We concluded about my marriage, in order to
which I went to St. Germains, where his Majesty, then
Prince of Wales, had his court, to desire of Dr. Earle,!
then one of his chaplains (since Dean of Westminster,
Clerk of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisbury), that he
would accompany me to Paris, which he did; and, on
Thursday, 27th June, 1647, he married us in Sir Richard
Browne’s chapel, betwixt the hours of eleven and twelve,
some few select friends being present. And this being
Corpus Christi feast, was solemnly observed in this coun-
try; the streets were sumptuously hung with tapestry, and
strewed with flowers.

roth September. Being called into England, to settle
my affairs after an absence of four years, I took leave of
the Prince and Queen, leaving my wife, yet very young,
under the care of an excellent lady and prudent mother.

4th October. I sealed and declared my will, and that
morning went from Paris, taking my journey through
Rouen, Dieppe, Ville-dieu, and St. Vallerie, where I
stayed one day with Mr. Waller, with whom I had some
affairs, and for which cause J took this circle to Calais,
where I arrived on the 11th, and that night embarking in
the packet-boat, was by one-o’clock got safe to Dover; for
which I heartily put up my thanks to God who had con-
ducted me safe to my own country, and been merciful to
me through so many aberrations. Hence, taking post, I
arrived at London the next day at evening, being the second
of October, new style.

1 John Earle was born at York in 1601, and finished his education
at Merton College, Oxford, where he took his degree of Doctor of
Divinity. He was appointed sub-tutor to Prince Charles, son of
Charles I., whom he afterwards attended when abroad, as chaplain.
Returning to England at the Restoration, he was successively made
Dean of Westminster, Clerk of the Closet, Bishop of Worcester, and
Bishop of Salisbury. He was the author of a Latin translation of the
‘* Eikon Basilike,’’ of ‘‘ Microcosmography, or a Piece of the World
discovered in Essays and Characters,’’ and of ‘‘ An Elegy on Mr.
Francis Beaumont.’’ He died at Oxford in 1665. See Reference to
him (and note) in ‘‘ Correspondence,” iv. p. 242.

1647) John Evelyn 243

sth. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to my
brother, and on the roth to Hampton Court, where I had
the honour to kiss his Majesty’s hand, and give him an
account of several things I had in charge, he being now in
the power of those execrable villains who not long after
murdered him. I lay at my cousin, Serjeant Hatton’s, at
Thames Ditton, whence, on the 13th, I went to London.

14th October. To Sayes Court, at Deptford, in Kent
(since my house), where I found Mr. Pretyman, my wife’s
uncle, who had charge of it and the estate about it, during
my father-in-law’s residence in France. On the 15th, |
again occupied my own chambers in the Middle Temple.

gth November. My sister opened to me her marriage
with Mr. Glanville.

1647-8 : 14th January. From London I went to Wotton,
to see my young nephew; and thence to Baynards, [in
Ewhurst] to visit my brother Richard.

5th February. Saw a tragi-comedy acted in the Cock-
pit, after there had been none of these diversions for many
years during the war.

28th. I went with my noble friend, Sir William Ducy,?
(afterwards Lord Downe) to Thistleworth, where we dined
with Sir Clepesby Crew, and afterwards to see the rare
miniatures of Peter Oliver, and rounds of plaster, and then
the curious flowers of Mr. Barill’s garden, who has some
good medals and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine Indian
hangings, and a very good chimney-piece of water-colours,
by Breughel, which I bought for him.

26th April. There was a great uproar in London, that
the rebel army quartering at Whitehall, would plunder the
City, on which there was published a Proclamation for all
to stand on their guard.

4th May. Came up the Essex petitioners for an agree-
ment betwixt his Majesty and the rebels. The 16th, the
Surrey men adressed the Parliament for the same; of which
some of them were slain and murdered by Cromwell’s
guards, in the New Palace Yard. 1 now sold the impro-

1 The son of Sir Robert Ducie, the wealthy Lord Mayor, created a
baronet by Charles; his only return for about 80,000/. which Charles
had borrowed from him. Sir William was made one of the Knights
of the Bath, and created Viscount Downe at the coronation of
Charles II. Dying without issue, his estates descended to the only
daughter of his younger brother, whose son was Lord Ducie in 1720,
and from him descended the present Earl of Ducie.

244 Diary of [London ©

priation of South Malling, near Lewes, in Sussex, to Mr.
Kemp and Alcock, for 3,oo00l.

30th May. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of
Norwich being at the head of them. Their first rendezvous
was in Broome-field, next my house at Sayes Court, whence
they went to Maidstone, and so to Colchester, where was
that memorable siege.

27th June. I purchased the manor of Hurcott, in Wor- |
cestershire, of my brother George, for 3,300l.

ist July. I sate for my picture, in which there is a
Death’s head, to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter.

1oth. News was brought me of my Lord Francis Villiers
being slain by the rebels near Kingston.

16th August. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the
wedding of my Brother, Richard, who married the daughter
and co-heir of Esquire Minn, lately deceased; by which he |
had a great estate both in land and money on the death of |
a brother. The coach in which the bride and bridegroom |
were, was overturned in coming home; but no harm was
done.

28th. To London from Sayes Court, and saw the cele- |
brated follies of Bartholomew Fair.

16th September. Came my lately married Brother,
Richard and his Wife, to visit me, when I showed them
Greenwich, and her Majesty’s Palace, now possessed by
the rebels.

28th. I went to Albury, to visit the Countess of Arundel,
and returned to Wotton.

31st October. 1 went to see my manor of Preston Beck-
helvyn, and the Cliffhouse.

29th November. Myself, with Mr. Thomas Offley, and
Lady Gerrard, christened my Niece Mary, eldest daughter
of my Brother, George Evelyn, by my Lady Cotton,
his second wife. I presented my Niece a piece of plate
which cost me 18l., and caused this inscription to be set
on it:

In memoriam facti :

Anno clo.Ix. xlirx. Cal. Decem. vin. Virginum castiss: Ktianorum
innocentiss: Nept: suavis: Mariz, Johan: Evelynus Avunculus et

Susceptor Vasculum hoc cum Epigraphe L. M. Q. D.
Ave Maria Gratid sis plena; Dominus tecum.

2nd December. This day I sold my manor of Hurcott
for 3,400l. to one Mr. Bridges.

1648) John Evelyn 245

13th. The Parliament now sat up the whole night, and
endeavoured to have concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty ;
but were surprised by the rebel army; the Members dis-
persed, and great confusion every where in expectation of
what would be next.

17th December. I heard an Italian sermon, in Mercers’
Chapel, one Dr. Middleton, an acquaintance of mine,
preaching. ;

18th. I got privately into the council of the rebel army,
at Whitehall, where | heard horrid villanies.

This was a most exceeding wet year, neither frost nor
snow ali the winter for more than six days in all. Cattle
died every where of a murrain.

1648-9: 1st January. I had a lodging and some books
at my father-in-law’s house, Sayes Court.

2nd. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveller,
Mr. Henshaw, who had two rare pieces of Stenwyck’s
perspective.

i7th. To London. I heard the rebel, Peters, incite the
rebel powers met in the Painted Chamber, to destroy his
Majesty ; and saw that archtraitor, Bradshaw, who not long
after condemned him.

1gth. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger
of being drowned by our wherries falling foul in the night
on another vessel then at anchor, shooting the bridge at
three quarters’ ebb, for which His mercy God Almighty be
praised.

21st. Was published my translation of Liberty and Ser-
vitude, for the preface of which | was severely threatened.

22nd. 1 went through a course of chymistry, at Sayes
Court. Now was the Thames frozen over, and horrid
tempests of wind.

The villany of the rebels proceeding now so far as to try,
condemn, and murder our excellent King on the 30th of this
month, struck me with such horror, that I kept the day
of his martyrdom a fast, and would not be present at that
execrable wickedness; receiving the sad account of it from
my brother George, and Mr. Owen, who came to visit me
this afternoon, and recounted all the circumstances.

1st February. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of
Norwich, Lord Capell, &c., at their trial before the rebels’
New Court of Injustice.

15th. I went to see the collection of one Trean, a rich

246 Diary of [London

merchant, who had some good pictures, especially a rare
perspective of Stenwyck; from thence, to other virtuosos.

The painter, La Neve,! has an Andromeda, but I think
it a copy after Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in
France. Webb, at the Exchange, has some rare things in
miniature, of Breughel’s, also Putti,? in twelve squares,
that were plundered from Sir James Palmer.

At Du Bois, we saw two tables of Putti, that were gotten,
I know not how, out of the Castle of St. Angelo, by old
Petit, thought to be Titian’s; he had some good heads of
Palma, and one of Stenwyck. Bellcar showed us an excel-
lent copy of his Majesty’s Sleeping Venus and the Satyr,
with other figures; for now they had plundered, sold, and
dispersed a world of rare paintings of the King’s, and his
loyal subjects. After all, Sir William Ducy showed me
some excellent things in miniature, and in oil of Holbein’s ;
Sir Thomas More’s head, and a whole-length figure of
Edward VI., which were certainly his Majesty’s; also a |
picture of Queen Elizabeth; the Lady Isabella Thynne; a
rare painting of Rothenhamer, being a Susanna; and a |
Magdalen, of Quintin, the blacksmith; also a Henry VIII.,
of Holbein; and Francis the First, rare indeed, but of |
whose hand I know not.

16h February. Paris being now strictly besieged by the
Prince de Condé, my Wife being shut up with her Father
and Mother, I wrote a letter of consolation to her: and, on
the 22nd, having recommended Obadiah Walker, a learned
and most ingenious person, to be tutor to, and travel
with, Mr. Hillyard’s two sons, returned to Sayes Court.

25th. Came to visit me Dr. Joyliffe, discoverer of the |
lymphatic vessels, and an excellent anatomist.

26th. Came to see me Captain George Evelyn,* my kins-
man, the great traveller, and one who believed himself a
better architect than really he was; witness the portico in-
the garden at Wotton; yet the great room at Albury is
somewhat better understood. He had a large mind, but
over-built every thing.

27th February. Came out of France my Wife’s Uncle

1 Probably the artist mentioned by Walpole as Cornelius Neve, who
drew a portrait of Ashmole. 2 Putti—Boys’ Heads.

3 Evelyn has added in the margin against Walker’s name, ‘‘ Since
an apostate.’’ He was master of University College, Oxford.

4 Son of Sir John Evelyn, of Godstone.

£049) John Evelyn 247

(Paris still besieged), being robbed at sea by the Dunkirk
pirates; I lost, among other goods, my Wife’s picture,
painted by Monsieur Bourdon.

5th March. Now were the Lords murdered in the Palace
Yard.

18th. Mr. Owen, a sequestered and learned minister,
preached in my parlour, and gave us the blessed Sacrament,
now wholly out of use in the parish churches, on which the
Presbyterians and fanatics had usurped.

21st. I received letters from Paris from my Wife, and
from Sir Richard [Browne], with whom I kept up a
political correspondence, with no small danger of being
discovered.

25th. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in these
days) in St. Peter’s, at Paul’s Wharf, London; and, in the
morning, the Archbishop of Armagh, that pious person and
learned man, Usher, in Lincoln’s Inn Chapel.

2nd April. To London, and inventoried my moveables
that had hitherto been dispersed for fear of plundering :
wrote into France, touching my sudden resolutions of
coming over to them. On the 8th, again heard an excellent
discourse from Archbishop Usher, on Ephes. 4, v. 26-27.

My Italian collection being now arrived, came Moulins,
the great chirurgeon, to see and admire the Tables of Veins
and Arteries, which I purchased and caused to be drawn out
of several human bodies at Padua.

11th. Received news out of France that peace was con-
cluded; dined with Sir Joseph Evelyn, at Westminster;
and on the 13th, I saw a private dissection, at Moulins’
house.

17th. 1 fell dangerously ill of my head; was blistered and
let blood behind the ears and forehead: on the 23rd, began
to have ease by using the fumes of camomile on embers
applied to my ears, after all the physicians had done their
best.

29th. 1 saw in London a huge ox bred in Kent, 17 feet
in length, and much higher than I could reach.

12th May. I purchased the Manor of Warley Magna, in
Essex : in the afternoon went to see Gildron’s collections of
paintings, where I found Mr. Endymion Porter, of his late
Majesty's Bedchamber.

17th. Went to Putney by water, in the barge with divers

1 Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Holland, and Lord Capel,

248 Diary of [London

ladies, to see the Schools, or Colleges, of the young gentile-
women.}

1gth. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, who had
some good paintings, especially a monk at his beads.

30th May. Un-kingship was proclaimed, and his
Majesty’s statues thrown down at St. Paul’s Portico, and
the Exchange.

7th June. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton ? (brother to Sir
Ralph, Lord Hopton, that noble hero), who having been
Ambassador extraordinary in Spain, sojourned some time
with my Father-in-law at Paris, a most excellent person.
Also Signora Lucretia, a Greek Lady, whom I knew in
Italy, now come over with her husband, an English gentle-
man. Also, the Earl and Countess of Arundel, taking leave
of them and other friends now ready to depart for France.
This night was a scuffle between some rebel soldiers and
gentlemen about the Temple.

toth. Preached the Archbishop of Armagh in Lincoln’s-
Inn, from Romans 5, verse 13. I received the blessed Sacra-
ment, preparatory to my journey.

13th. I dined with my worthy friend, Sir John Owen,?
newly freed from sentence of death among the Lords that
suffered. With him was one Carew, who played incom-
parably on the Welsh harp: afterwards, I treated divers
ladies of my relations, in Spring Garden.

This night was buried with great pomp, Dorislaus, slain
at the Hague, the villain who managed the trial against
his sacred Majesty.

17th June. I got a pass from the rebel Bradshaw, then
in great power.

1 Kept probably by Mrs. Bathsua Makins, a learned woman of that
day. She had been tutoress to the Princess Elizabeth, King Charles’s
second daughter. There is a rare portrait of her, by Marshall.

2 Sir Arthur Hopton was uncle, not brother, to Lord Hopton (so
well known for his services to Charles in the course of the Civil
War); and would have succeeded his nephew in the title, as the latter
died childless, but that Sir Arthur had himself died two years before
him, without issue, in the year 1650. The title became extinct.

8 A Royalist officer, whose life had been forfeited for the part he
took against the Parliament, but was saved by the timely interposi-
tion of Colonel Hutchinson. The latter humanely spoke for him in
the House, though Sir John was a perfect stranger to him, because he
perceived, while the great noblemen, his companions, found earnest
intercessors, no one seemed to know anything of the Knight, or would

offer a word in favour of him. Sir John Owen aiterwards proved
himself ungrateful.

1649) John Evelyn 249

zoth. I went to Putney, and other places on the Thames,
to take prospects in crayon, to carry into France, where I
thought to have them engraved.!

2nd july. 1 went from Wotton to Godstone (the resi-
dence of Sir John Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn
of Wilts., when I took leave of both Sir Johns and their
ladies. Mem. the prodigious memory of Sir John of Wilts’
daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepont, and mother
of the present Earl of Kingston. I returned to Sayes Court
this night.

4th. Visited Lady Hatton,? her Lord sojourning at Paris
with my father-in-law.

gth. Dined with Sir Walter Pye, and my good friend,
Mr. Eaton, afterwards a judge, who corresponded with me
in France.

11th. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse,3 the divine
historian and poet; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and
other friends, to take leave of me.

12th. It was about three in the afternon, I took oars for
Gravesend, accompanied by my cousin, Stephens, and
sister, Glanville, who there supped with me and returned;
whence I took post immediately to Dover, where I arrived
by nine in the morning; and, about eleven that night, went
on board a barque guarded by a pinnace of eight guns;
this being the first time the Packet-boat had obtained a
convoy, having several times before been pillaged. We
had a good passage, though chased for some hours by a
pirate, but he durst not attack our frigate, and we then

1 One of these he etched himself. The plate is now at Wotton.

1 Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Sir Charles Montagu, and niece of
Henry Earl of Manchester. She married Sir Christopher Hatton—
made a Knight of the Bath at the coronation of Charles I., who, on
the 2oth of July, 1643, created him Baron Hatton, of Kirby, for his
devotion to the Royal cause. After the Restoration, he was sworn of
the Privy Council, and appointed governor of Guernsey. He died in
1670.

3 Immortalised in Butler’s couplet :

‘““ ‘There was an ancient sage Philosopher,
Who had read Alexander Ross over.”’

He was a Scotchman, born in 1591; and after receiving an educa-
tion for the church, took orders, became master of a free school at
Southampton, and preached, wrote, and taught with a diligence that
ought to have obtained him other reputation than Butler’s ludicrous
lines have bestowed upon him. He died in 1654. See ‘* Correspond-
ence,” iii. 56 and 57.

250 Diary of (Paris

chased him till he got under the protection of the Castle at
Calais. It was a small privateer belonging to the Prince
of Wales. I carried over with me my servant, Richard
Hoare, an incomparable writer of several hands, whom |
afterwards preferred in the Prerogative Office,! at the
return of his Majesty. Lady Catherine Scott, daughter of
the Earl of Norwich,? followed us in a shallop, with Mr.
Arthur Slingsby, who left England incognito. At the)
entrance of the town, the Lieutenant-Governor, being on
his horse with the guards, let us pass courteously. I vis-
ited Sir Richard Lloyd, an English gentleman, and walked
in the church, where the ornament about the high altar|
of black marble is very fine, and there is a good picture of |
the Assumption. The citadel seems to be impregnable, and |
the whole country about it to be laid under water by sluices
for many miles.

16th July. We departed from Paris, in company with
that very pleasant lady (Lady Catherine Scott) and others.
In all this journey we were greatly apprehensive of parties,
which caused us to alight often out of our coach and walk
separately on foot, with our guns on our shoulders, in all
suspected places.

ist August. At three in the afternoon we came to St.
Denis, saw the rarities of the church and treasury; and so
to Paris that evening.

The next day came to welcome me at dinner the Lord
High Treasurer Cottington, Sir Edward Hyde, Chancellor,
Sir Edward Nicholas, Secretary of State, Sir George Car-
teret, Governor of Jersey,3 and Dr. Earle, having now been
absent from my Wife about a year and a half.

1 Where specimens of his writing in the entry of wills about this
date may now be seen.

32 His youngest daughter; married to Mr. James Scott, of Scott’s
Hall, Kent, supposed to have been a son of Prince Rupert.

8 George was son and heir to Helier Carteret, Esq., Deputy-
governor of Jersey, and grandson of Sir Philip Carteret, who in the
reign of Elizabeth planted a colony in the island (in which his ances-
tors, from the time of Edward I!., had held lands), to secure it
from the French, who had frequently sought to obtain possession of
it. The son of the Deputy-governor entered the navy at an early
age: greatly distinguished himself in the service; and attracting the
attention of the Duke of Buckingham, received the appointment
from Charles I., of Joint-governor of Jersey, and Comptroller of the
Navy. Having served the King during the civil wars, at the Restora-
tion he was returned to Parliament for Portsmouth, and filled the

1649] John Evelyn 251

18th August. I went to St. Germains, to kiss his Ma-
jesty’s hand; in the coach, which was my Lord Wilmot’s,}
went Mrs. Barlow, the King’s mistress 2 and mother to the
Duke of Monmouth, a brown, beautiful, bold, but insipid
creature.

19th. I went to salute the French King and the Queen
Dowager; and, on the 21st, returned on one of the
Queen’s coaches with my Lord Germain, Duke of Buck-
ingham, Lord Wentworth, and Mr. Croftes, since Lord
Croftes.

7th September. Went with my Wife and dear Cousin to
St. Germains, and kissed the Queen-Mother’s hand; dined
with my Lord Keeper and Lord Hatton. Divers of the
great men of France came to see the King. The next day,
came the Prince of Condé. Returning to Paris, we went to
see the President Maison’s palace, built castle-wise, of a
milk-white fine freestone; the house not vast, but well
contrived, especially the staircase, and the ornaments of
Putti, about it. It is environed in a dry moat, the offices
under-ground, the gardens very excellent with extraordin-
ary long walks, set with elms, and a noble prospect towards
the forest, and on the Seine towards Paris. Take it alto-
gether, the meadows, walks, river, forest, corn-ground, and
vineyards, I hardly saw anything in Italy exceed it. The

office of Treasurer of the Navy. He died January 13th, 1674. Several
members of his family distinguished themselves in the wars of the
seventeenth century, and one of his descendants became a celebrated
statesman under the first and second Georges.

1 Henry, only son of Charles Viscount Wilmot, of Athlone, raised
to the English Peerage by Charles I., in June 29, 1643, as Baron
Wilmot, of Adderbury. He held a command in the King’s Cavalry,
in which he served with distinction at the battle of Roundway Doune;
subsequently assisting Charles II. to escape from the field of Wor-
cester; though, according to the King’s statement to Pepys, it was
rather in the way of hiding from, than in combating with his
enemies. Nevertheless he was created Earl of Rochester, December
13, 1652, at Paris, where Charles for a short time assumed the
privilege of sovereignty. He died at Dunkirk in 1659, and was
succeeded by his only surviving son, afterwards the notorious
Rochester.

2 The lady here referred to was Lucy, daughter of Richard Walters,
Esq., of Haverfordwest. (See Evelyn’s striking mention of her in a
later passage, vol. ii., p. 232.) She had two children by the King;
James, subsequently so celebrated as the Duke of Monmouth, and
Mary, whose lot was obscure in comparison with that of her brother,
but of course infinitely happier. She married a Mr. William Sars-
field, of Ireland, and after his death, William Fanshawe, Esq.

I 220 K

252 Diary of [Paris

iron gates are very magnificent. He has pulled down a
whole village to make room for his pleasure about it.

12th September. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman, and one of
his Majesty’s chaplains, a learned Grecian who set out the
Council of Florence, preached.

13th. The King invited the Prince of Condé to supper
at St. Cloud; there I kissed the Duke of York’s hand in
the tennis-court, where I saw a famous match betwixt
Monsieur Saumeurs, and Colonel Cooke, and so returned to
Paris. It was noised about that I was knighted, a dignity
I often declined.

1st October. Went with my cousin Tuke (afterwards
Sir Samuel), to see the fountains of St. Cloud and Ruel;
and, after dinner, to talk with the poor ignorant and super-
stitious anchorite at Mount Calvary, and so to Paris.

and. Came Mr. William Coventry (afterwards Sir Wil-
liam) 1 and the Duke’s secretary, &c., to visit me.

sth. Dined with Sir George Ratcliffe, the great favour-
ite of the late Earl of Strafford, formerly Lord Deputy of
Ireland, decapitated.

sth. To the Louvre, to visit the Countess of Moreton,
Governess to Madame.

1sth. Came news of Drogheda being taken by the
rebels, and all put to the sword, which made us very sad, |
fore-running the loss of all Ireland.

21st. I went to hear Dr. D’Avinson’s lecture in the
physical garden, and see his laboratory, he being Prefect
of that excellent garden, and Professor Botanicus.

30th October. I was at the funeral of one Mr. Downes, a
sober English gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to
Charenton, where he was interred in a cabbage-garden, yet
with the office of our church, which was said before in our
chapel at Paris. Here I saw also where they buried the
great soldier, Gassion, who had a tomb built over him like
a fountain, the design and materials mean enough. I
returned to Paris with Sir Philip Musgrave, and Sir Mar-

1 A member of the Privy Council of Charles II., and Commis-
sioner of the Treasury, but dismissed the Court for sending a chal-
lenge to the Duke of Buckingham. ‘‘ He was a man,” says Burnet,
‘of great notions and eminent virtues; the best speaker in the
House of Commons, and capable of bearing the chief ministry, as it
was once thought he was very near it, and deserved it more than all”
the rest did.’’ Evelyn, in a subsequent mention in his journal, char-
acterises him as ‘‘ a wise and witty gentleman.”

649] John Evelyn 253

naduke Langdale, since Lord Langdale.—Memorandum.
his was a very sickly and mortal autumn.

5th November. I received divers letters out of England,
equiring me to come over about settling some of my con-
erns.

7th. Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester}
reached in our chapel on Matthew 4, verse 3.

18th. I went with my father-in-law to see his audience
at the French Court, where next the Pope’s Nuncio, he was
introduced by the master of ceremonies, and, after delivery
of his credentials, as from our King, since his Father’s
murder, he was most graciously received by the King of
France and his mother, with whom he had a long audience.
This was in the Palais Cardinal.

After this, being presented to his Majesty and the Queen
Regent, I went to see the house built by the late great
Cardinal de Richelieu. The most observable thing is the
gallery, painted with the portraits of the most illustrious
persons and signal actions in France, with innumerable
emblems betwixt every table. In the middle of the gallery,
is a neat chapel, rarely paved in work and devices of several
sorts of marble, besides the altar piece and two statues
of white marble, one of St. John, the other of the
Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of the apartments are
rarely gilded and carved, with some good modern paint-
ings. In the presence hang three huge branches of crystal.
In the French King’s bed-chamber, is an alcove like another
chamber, set as it were in a chamber like a moveable box,
with a rich embroidered bed. The fabric of the palace is
not magnificent, being but of two stories; but the garden
is so spacious as to contain a noble basin and fountain
continually playing, and there is a mall, with an elbow, or
turning, to protract it. So I left his Majesty on the
terrace, busy in seeing a bull-baiting, and returned home
in Prince Edward’s coach with Mr. Paul, the Prince
Elector’s agent.

1gth November. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr.
Holden, an Engiish Sorbonne divine, we fell into some dis-
course about religion.

28th December. Going to wait on Mr. Waller, I viewed
St. Stephen’s church; the building, though Gothic, is full
of carving; within it is beautiful, especially the choir and
winding stairs. The glass is well painted, and the tapestry

254 Diary of [Paris

hung up this day about the choir, representing the con-
version of Constantine, was exceeding rich.

I went to that excellent engraver, Du Bosse, for his
instruction about some difficulties in perspective which were
delivered in his book.

I concluded this year in health, for which | gave solemn
thanks to Almighty God.

2gth. I christened Sir Hugh Rilie’s child with Sir George
Radcliffe in our chapel, the parents being so poor that they |
had provided no gossips, so as several of us drawing lots
it fell on me, the Dean of Peterborough (Dr. Cosin) offici-
ating: we named it Andrew, being on the eve of that
Apostle’s day.

1649-50: 1st January. I began this Jubilee with the
public office in our chapel: dined at my Lady Herbert’s,
wife of Sir Edward Herbert, afterwards Lord Keeper.

18th. This night was the Prince of Condé and his brother |
carried prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes. |

6th February. In the evening, came Signor Alessandro,
one of the Cardinal Mazarine’s musicians, and a person of
great name for his knowledge in that art, to visit my wife,
and sung before divers persons of quality in my chamber.

1st March. I went to see the masquerados, which was
very fantastic; but nothing so quiet and solemn as | found
it at Venice.

13th. Saw a triumph in Monsieur del Camp’s Academy,
where divers of the French and English noblesse, especially
my Lord of Ossory, and Richard, sons to the Marquis of
Ormond (afterwards Duke),? did their exercises on horse-

1 This he does not fail to repeat at the end of every year, but
it will not always be necessary here to insert it.

2 James Butler, Marquis of Ormonde, and Earl of Ossory in the
Irish Peerage, first brought himself into notice when Ireland had for
her Lord-Deputy the Earl of Strafford. A Parliament had been
summoned to meet at Dublin Castle with strict injunctions that the
members were to come unarmed, and the young Marquis not having
attended to this when he presented himself at the door, the Usher
of the Black Rod demanded his sword; whereupon the other fiercely
replied that if he had his sword at all, he should have it ‘“‘in his
guts.’? The Lord-Deputy summoned the Marquis of Ormonde before
him in the evening, to account for his conduct; when his Lordshi
produced the King’s writ summoning him to Parliament “‘ cinctus
cum gladio.’’ Upon this Strafford, fancying so resolute a man
would be better as a friend than as an enemy, resolved to attach

him to the King’s service and to his own, and appointed him a
member of the Council. The Marquis was afterwards a staunch

1650] John Evelyn 255

back in noble equipage, before a world of spectators and
great persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation.
25th April. I went out of town to see Madrid, a palace
so called, built by Francis the First. It is observable only
for its open manner of architecture, being much of terraces
and galleries one over another to the very roof; and for the
materials, which are most of earth painted like porcelain,
or China-ware, whose colours appear very fresh; but is very
fragile. There are whole statues and relievos of this
pottery, chimney-pieces, and columns both within and with-
out. Under the chapel is a chimney in the midst of a room
parted from the Salle des Gardes. The house is fortified

friend of Strafford, even in his adversity, and an equally earnest
partisan of the King, who bestowed upon him the Order of the
Garter, and appointed him Lord-Deputy of Ireland, and Lord Steward
of the Household. In the Civil Wars he exerted himself zealously
in the cause of his master, till obliged to seek safety with his family
in exile. He returned at the Restoration, and Charles II., on the
zoth of July, 1660, raised him to the English Peerage by the titles
of Baron Butler and Earl of Brecknock, and advanced him in the
Irish Peerage to the Dukedom of Ormonde, and again appointed him
to the Lord Lieutenancy of Ireland. He died in 1688. Bishop Burnet
has left a sort of negative character of the Duke, for he describes
him as ‘fa man of great expense, but decent even in his vices, for
he always kept up the forms of religion.’”” He seems to have made
himself more acceptable to Grammont, who neither alludes to his
vices nor to his religion, but discovering a resemblance in the turn
of his wit and the nobility of his manners to his own relative, the
Marshal de Grammont, thinks that he is bound to estimate the Duke
at the highest possible appreciation. Of the sons mentioned by
Evelyn, the first was the Duke’s second son, Thomas Earl of Ossory,
who proved himself an efficient commander both by sea and land,
an able statesman, and an accomplished man of letters. According to
Anthony Wood, his heroism in the sea fight with the Dutch, in 1673,
‘* was beyond the fiction of romance ;’’ and Evelyn’s correspondence
contains earnest tributes to his character. On the 24th of September,
1666, he was summoned to Paliament as Lord Butler, of Moor Park;
and was afterwards employed as General of the Horse, as member of
the Privy Council, and as deputy for his father in his Irish govern-
ment. He died July 30, 1680. Richard, the younger brother of
Thomas, also referred to by Evelyn, was created an Irish peer in
1662, by the titles of Baron Butler, Viscount Tullogh, and Earl of
Arran; and became an English Peer in 1673, by the title of Baron
Butler of Weston. He also was deputy for his father, and dis-
tinguished himself both by sea and land, particularly in the naval
engagement with the Dutch, in 1673, and against the mutinous
garrison of Carrickfergus. He died in 1685. Evelyn highly esteemed
this family, and makes frequent allusion to them.
1 See ante, p. 56.

256 Diary of [Paris

with a deep ditch, and has an admirable vista towards the
Bois de Boulogne and river.

30th. I went to see the collection of the famous sculptor,
Steffano de la Bella, returning now into Italy, and bought
some prints: and likewise visited Perelle, the landscape
graver.

3rd May. At the hospital of La Charit¢, I saw the opera-
tion of cutting for the stone. A child of eight or nine years
old underwent the operation with most extraordinary
patience, and expressing great joy when he saw the stone
was drawn. The use I made of it was, to give Aimighty
God hearty thanks that I had not been subject to this de-
plorable infirmity.

7th. I went with Sir Richard Browne’s lady and my
wife, together with the Earl of Chesterfield,! Lord Ossory
and his brother, to Vamber, a place near the city famous
for butter: when, coming homewards, being on foot, a
quarrei arose between Lord Ossory and a man in a garden,
who thrust Lord Ossory from the gate with uncivil lan-
guage; on which our young gallants struck the fellow on
the pate, and bade him ask pardon, which he did with much
submission, and so we parted. But we were not gone far
before we heard a noise behind us, and saw people coming
with guns, swords, staves, and forks, and who followed,
flinging stones; on which, we turned, and were forced to”
engage, and with our swords, stones, and the help of our
servants (one of whom had a pistol) made our retreat for.
near a quarter of a mile, when we took shelter in a house,
where we were besieged, and at length forced to submit
to be prisoners. Lord Hatton, with some others, were taken
prisoners in the flight, and his lordship was confined under
three locks and as many doors in this rude fellow’s master’s
house, who pretended to be Steward to Monsieur St. Ger-
main, one of the presidents of the Grand Chambre du
Parlement, and a Canon of Nétre Dame. Several of us were
much hurt. One of our lackeys escaping to Paris, caused

1 Sir Philip Stanhope, created November 7, 1616, Baron Stanhope
of Shelford; and on the 4th August, 1628, Earl of Chesterfield. At
the breaking out of hostilities with the Parliament, his lordship
became a determined partisan for the King, and garrisoned his house
at Shelford, where his son Philip lost his life, and the place was
stormed and burned to the ground. Lord Chesterfield at last found
oor in flight, and retired to France. He died September 1a,
"750.

1650) John Evelyn 257

the bailiff of St. Germain to come with his guard and rescue
us. Immediately afterwards, came Monsieur St. Germain
himself, in great wrath, on hearing that his housekeeper
was assaulted; but when he saw the King’s officers, the
gentlemen and noblemen, with his Majesty’s Resident, and
understood the occasion, he was ashamed of the accident,
requesting the fellow’s pardon, and desiring the ladies to
accept their submission and a supper at his house. It was
ten o’clock at night ere we got to Paris, guarded by Prince
Griffith, (a Welsh hero going under that name, and well
known in England for his extravagancies), together with
the scholars of two academies, who came forth to assist
and meet us on horseback, and would fain have alarmed
the town we received the affront from: which, with much
ado, we prevented.

12th May. Complaint being come to the Queen and
Court of France of the affront we had received, the Presi-
dent was ordered to ask pardon of Sir R. Browne, his
Majesty’s Resident, and the fellow to make submission,
and be dismissed. There came along with him the Presi-
dent de Thou, son of the great Thuanus [the historian], and
so all was composed. But I have often heard that gallant
gentleman, my Lord Ossory, affirm solemnly that in all the
conflicts he ever was in at sea or on land (in the most
desperate of both which he had often been) he believed he
was never in so much danger as when these people rose
against us. He used to call it the bataile de Vambre, and
remember it with a great deal of mirth as an adventure,
en cavalier.

24th May. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a
running at the ring where were many brave horses,
gallants, and ladies, my Lord Stanhope! entertaining us
with a collation.

12th June. Being Trinity-Sunday, the Dean of Peter-
borough 2 preached; after which, there was an ordination
of two divines, Durell and Brevent (the one was afterwards
Dean of Windsor, the other of Durham, both very learned
persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with great

1 Charles, second Baron Stanhope, of Harrington. He died in 1677
Henry, son of Philip, first Earl of Chesterfield, and his son Philip
(subsequently second Earl), also in succession bore the title of Lord
Stanhope.

3 Doctor Cosin, afterwards Bishop of Durham.

258 Diary of [Paris

gravity, after a pious and learned exhortation declaring
the weight and dignity of their function, especially now
in a time of the poor Church of England’s affliction. He
magnified the sublimity of the calling, from the object,
viz., the salvation of men’s souls, and the glory of God;
producing many human instances of the transitoriness
and vanity of all other dignities; that of all the triumphs
the Roman conquerors made, none was comparable to
that of our Blessed Saviour’s, when he led captivity
captive, and gave gifts to men, namely, that of the
Holy Spirit, by which his faithful and painful ministers
triumphed over Satan as oft as they reduced a sinner
from the error of his ways. He then proceeded to the
ordination. They were presented by the Dean in their sur-
plices before the altar, the Bishop sitting in a chair at one
side; and so were made both Deacons and Priests at the |
same time, in regard to the necessity of the times, there
being so few Bishops left in England, and consequently
danger of a failure of both functions. Lastly, they pro-
ceeded to the Communion. This was all performed in Sir
Richard Browne’s chapel, at Paris.

13th. I sate to the famous sculptor, Nanteuil, who was
afterwards made a knight by the French King for his art.
He engraved my picture in copper. At a future time, he
presented me with my own picture,! done all with his pen;
an extraordinary curiosity.

21st June. I went to see the Samaritan, or Pump, at the
end of the Pont Neuf, which, though to appearance promis-
ing no great matter, is, besides, the machine, furnished
with innumerable rarities both of art and nature; especi-
ally the costly grotto, where are the fairest corals, growing
out of the very rock, that I have seen; also great pieces of
crystals, amethysts, gold in the mine, and other metals
and marcasites, with two great conchas, which the owner
told us cost him 200 crowns at Amsterdam. He showed us
many landscapes and prospects, very rarely painted in
miniature, some with the pen and crayon; divers anti-
quities and relievos of Rome; above all, that of the inside
of the Amphitheatre of Titus, incomparably drawn by

1 Also those of Mrs. Evelyn and Sir R. Browne, beautifully exe-
cuted, which are still at Wotton. Robert Nanteuil drew cleverly in
crayons, and was an admirable engraver. Born at Rheims, in 1630,
and died at Paris in 1678.

1650] John Evelyn 259

Monsieur St. Clere! himself; two boys and three skele-
tons, moulded by Fiamingo; a book of statues, with the
pen made for Henry I[V., rarely executed, and by which
one may discover many errors in the taille-douce of
Perrier, who has added divers conceits of his own that are
not in the originals. He has likewise an infinite collection
of taille-douces, richly bound in morocco.

He led us into a stately chamber furnished to have
entertained a prince, with pictures of the greatest masters,
especially a Venus of Perino del Vaga; the Putti carved in
the chimney-piece by the Fleming; the vases of porcelain,
and many designed by Raphael; some paintings of
Poussin, and Fioravanti; antiques in brass; the looking-
glass and stands rarely carved. In a word, all was great,
choice and magnificent, and not to be passed by as I had
often done, without the least suspicion that there were
such rare things to be seen in that place. At a future visit,
he showed a new grotto and a bathing place, hewn
through the battlements of the arches of Pont Neuf, into a
wide vault at the intercolumniation, so that the coaches
and horses thundered over our heads.

27th June. I made my will, and, taking leave of my wife
and other friends, took horse for England, paying the
messager eight pistoles for me and my servant to Calais,
setting out with seventeen in company well-armed, some
Portuguese, Swiss, and French, whereof six were captains
and officers. We came the first night to Beaumont; next
day, to Beauvais, and lay at Pois, and the next, without
dining, reached Abbeville; next, dined at Montreuil, and
proceeding met a company on foot (being now within the
inroads of the parties which dangerously infest this day’s
journey from St. Omers and the frontiers), which we drew
very near to, ready and resolute to charge through, and
accordingly were ordered and led by a captain of our train;
but, as we were on the speed, they called out, and proved
to be Scotchmen, newly raised and landed, and few among
them armed. This night, we were well treated at Bou-
logne. The next day, we marched in good order, the pas-
sage being now exceeding dangerous, and got to Calais
by a little after two. The sun so scorched my face, that it
made the skin peel off.

I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty’s agent; and, about

1 This was the name of the owner.
1 220 *K

260 Diary of [Dover

three in the afternoon, embarked in the packet-boat; hear-
ing there was a pirate then also setting sail, we had
security from molestation, and so with a fair S. W. wind
in seven hours we landed at Dover. The busy watchman
would have us to the Mayor to be searched, but the gentle-
man being in bed, we were dismissed.

Next day, being Sunday, they would not permit us to
ride post, so that afternoon our trunks were visited.

The next morning, by four, we set out for Canterbury,
where I met with my Lady Catherine Scott, whom that
very day twelve months before I met at sea going for
France; she had been visiting Sir Thomas Peyton, not far
off, and would needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend.
We dined at Sittingbourne, came late to Gravesend, and |
so to Deptford, taking leave of my lady about four the next
morning.

5th July. I supped in the city with my Lady Catherine
Scott, at one Mr. Dubois’, where was a gentlewoman
called Everard, who was a very great chymist.

Sunday, 7th. In the afternoon, having a mind to see
what was doing among the Rebels, then in full possession
at Whitehall, I went thither, and found one at exercise in
the chapel, after their way; thence, to St. James’s, where
another was preaching in the court abroad.

17th July. I went to London to obtain a pass,} intend-
ing but a short stay in England.

25th. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Robert
Cook and my sister Glanville; the country was now much »
molested by soldiers, who took away gentlemen’s horses —
for the service of the State, as then called.

1 A copy of it is subjoined: ‘* These are to will and require you to
permit and suffer the bearer thereof, John Evelyn, Esq., to transport
himself, two servants, and other necessaries, into any port of France
without any your lets or molestations, of which you are not to fail,
and for which this shall be your sufficient warrant. Given at the
Council of State at Whitehall this 25th of June, 1650.

‘* Signed in the name and by Order of the Council of State,

appointed by authority of Parliament,
Jo. BRapDsHAWwE, President.

“To all Customers, Comptrollers, and Searchers, and
all other officers of the Ports, or Customs.”’

Subjoined to the signature, Evelyn has added in his own writing :
‘*The hand of that villain who sentenced our Charles I. of B[lessed]
M[emory].’’ Its endorsement, also in his writing, is, ‘‘ The Pass from
the Council of State, 1650.’’

1650] John Evelyn 261

4th August. | heard a sermon at the Rolls; and, in the
afternoon, wandered to divers churches, the pulpits full of
novices and novelties.

6th. To Mr. Walker’s, a good painter, who showed me
an excellent copy of Titian.

12th. Set out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and
so that night to Canterbury, where being surprised by the
soldiers, and having only an antiquated pass, with some
fortunate dexterity I got clear of them, though not without
extraordinary hazard, having before counterfeited one with
success, it being so difficult to procure one of the Rebels
without entering into oaths, which I never would do. At
Dover, money to the searchers and officers was as
authentic as the hand and seal of Bradshawe himself,
where I had not so much as my trunk opened.

13th. At six in the evening, set sail for Calais; the wind
not favourable, I was very sea-sick, coming to an anchor
about one o’clock; about five in the morning, we had a
long boat to carry us to land, though at a good instance;
this we willingly entered, because two vessels were chasing
us ; but, being now almost at the harbour’s mouth, through
inadvertency there brake in upon us two such heavy seas,
as had almost sunk the boat, I being near the middle up
in water. Our steersman, it seems, apprehensive of the
danger, was preparing to leap into the sea and trust to
swimming, but seeing the vessel emerge, he put her into
the pier, and so, God be thanked ! we got to Calais, though
wet.

Here I waited for company, the passage towards Paris
being still infested with volunteers from the Spanish
frontiers.

16th August. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of
about 1400 horse and foot (amongst them was a captain
whom I knew), being come to town, I took horses for
myself and servant, and marched under their protection to
Boulogne. It was a miserable spectacle to see how these
tattered soldiers pillaged the poor people of their sheep,
poultry, corn, cattle, and whatever came in their way; but
they had such ill pay, that they were ready themselves to
starve.

As we passed St. Denis, the people were in uproar, the
guards doubled, and everybody running with their move-
ables to Paris, on an alarm that the enemy was within five

262 Diary of (Paris

leagues of them; so miserably exposed was even this part
of France at this time.

The 30th, I got to Paris, after an absence of two months
only.

1st September. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner ;
Paris, and indeed all France, being full of loyal fugitives.

Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which
the Popish midwife had baptised.

15th October. Sir Thomas Osborne (afterwards Lord
Treasurer)! and Lord Stanhope shot for a wager of five
louis, to be spent on a treat; they shot so exact, that it
was a drawn match.

1st November. Took leave of my Lord Stanhope, going
on his journey towards Italy; also visited my Lord
Hatton, Comptroller of his Majesty’s Household, the
Countess of Morton, Governess to the Lady Henrietta,
and Mrs. Gardner, one of the Queen’s Maids of Honour.

6th. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with us, his groom
was set upon in the street before our house, and received
two wounds, but gave the assassin nine, who was
carried off to the Charité Hospital. Sir Thomas went for
England on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to
my friends.

16th. I went to Monsieur Visse’s, the French King’s |
Secretary, to a concert of French music and voices, con-
sisting of twenty-four, two theorbos, and but one bass
viol, being a rehearsal of what was to be sung at vespers
at St. Cecilia’s, on her feast, she being patroness of
Musicians. News arrived of the death of the Princess of
Orange of the small pox.

14th December. 1 went to visit Mr. Ratcliffe, in whose
lodging was an impostor that had like to have imposed
upon us a pretended secret of multiplying gold; it is cer-

1 The only son of Sir Edward Osborne, Vice-President of the
Council for the north of England, and Lieutenant-General of the
Northern Forces. Sir Edward had devoted himself to the cause of —
Charles I., and his son followed his example. He shared the same
fortune as other exiles during the Protectorate, but at the Restora-
tion was amply rewarded, dignities and titles being showered upon
him with excessive liberality. Lord High Treasurer, and Knight of
the Garter, he was successively created Baron Osborne, of Kiveton,
and Viscount Latimer, of Danby; Earl of Danby, Marquis of Car-
marthen, and Duke of Leeds, in the English Peerage; and

Viscount Dumblane, in the Peerage of Scotland. He died July 26,
1712. The vicissitudes of his official career are well known.

1650] John Evelyn 263

tain he had lived some time in Paris in extraordinary splen-
dour, but I found him to be an egregious cheat.

22nd. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visit me.

31st. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection
the past year, and made up my accounts, which came this
year to 7015 livres, near £600 sterling.

1650-1: 1st January. I wrote to my brother at Wotton,
about his garden and fountains. After evening prayer,
Mr. Wainsford called on me: he had long been Consul at
Aleppo, and told me many strange things of those coun-
tries, the Arabs especially.

27th. I had letters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my
grand-mother-in-law; she had a most tender care of me
during my childhood, and was a woman of extraordinary
charity and piety.

29th January. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. v. 34,
showing the mischief of covetousness. My Lord Marquis
of Ormonde and Inchiquin, come newly out of Ireland,
were this day at chapel.

gth February. Cardinal Mazarine was proscribed by
Arrét du Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris.

23rd. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a convent
that has a fair cloister painted with the lives of Hermits;
a glorious altar now erecting in the chapel; the garden on
the rock with divers descents, with a fine vineyard and a
delicate prospect toward the city.

24th. I went to see a dromedary, a very monstrous
beast, much like the camel, but larger. There was also
dancing on the rope; but, above all, surprising to those
who were ignorant of the address, was the water-spouter,!
who, drinking only fountain-water, rendered out of his
mouth in several glasses all sorts of wine and sweet waters.
For a piece of money, he discovered the secret to me. I
waited on Friar Nicholas at the convent at Chaillot, who,
being an excellent chymist, showed me his laboratory, and
rare collection of spagyrical remedies. He was both phy-
sician and apothecary of the convent, and, instead of the
names of his drugs, he painted his boxes and pots with the
figure of the drug, or simple, contained in them. He
showed me as a rarity some § of antimony :2 he had cured

1 Floriand Marchand. He afterwards exhibited himself in England.
Prefixed to an Account of his exploits is a woodcut of him.
2 A supposed preparation of this is alleged to have been that

264 Diary of [Paris

Monsieur Senatin of a desperate sickness, for which
there was building a monumental altar that was to cost
£1500.

11th March. I went to the Chatelet, or prison, where a
malefactor was to have the question, or torture, given to
him, he refusing to confess the robbery with which he was
charged, which was thus: they first bound his wrist with a
strong rope, or smal! cable, and one end of it to an iron |
ring made fast to the wall, about four feet from the floor,
and then his feet with another cable, fastened about five
feet farther than his utmost length to another ring on the
floor of the room. Thus suspended, and yet lying but
aslant, they slid a horse of wood under the rope which
bound his feet, which so exceedingly stiffened it, as
severed the fellow’s joints in miserable sort, drawing him
out at length in an extraordinary manner, he having only
a pair of linen drawers on his naked body. Then, they ques- |
tioned him of a robbery (the Lieutenant being present, and |
a clerk that wrote), which not confessing, they put a |
higher horse under the rope, to increase the torture and |
extension. In this agony, confessing nothing, the execu-
tioner with a horn (just such as they drench horses with)
stuck the end of it into his mouth, and poured the quantity
of two buckets of water down his throat and over him,
which so prodigiously swelled him, as would have pitied —
and affrighted any one to see it; for all this, he denied all —
that was charged to him. They then let him down, and
carried him before a warm fire to bring him to himself,
being now to all appearance dead with pain. What became
of him, I know not; but the gentleman whom he robbed
constantly averred him to be the man, and the fellow’s
suspicious pale looks, before he knew he should be racked,
betrayed some guilt; the Lieutenant was also of that
opinion, and told us at first sight (for he was a lean, dry,
black young man) he would conquer the torture; and so it
seems they could not hang him, but did use in such cases,
where the evidence is very presumptive, to send them to-
the galleys, which is as bad as death.

There was another malefactor to succeed, but the spec-
tacle was so uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay
the sight of another. It represented yet to me the intoler-

which was afterwards perfected by Dr. James, whose name it still
bears.

1651] John Evelyn 265

able sufferings which our Blessed Saviour must needs
undergo, when his body was hanging with all its weight
upon the nails on the cross.

March 20th. J] went this night with my wife to a ball
at the Marquis de Crevecceur’s, where were divers Princes,
Dukes, and great persons; but what appeared to me very
mean was, that it began with a puppet-play.

Sth May. I attended the Ambassador to a masque at
Court, where the French King in person danced five entries ;
but being engaged in discourse, and better entertained with
one of the Queen-Regent’s Secretaries, I soon left the
entertainment.

11th May. Tothe Palace Cardinal, where the Master of
the Ceremonies placed me to see the Royal masque, or
opera. The first scene represented a chariot of singers
composed of the rarest voices that could be procured, repre-
senting Cornaro! and Temperance; this was overthrown
by Bacchus and his revellers; the rest consisted of several
eniries and pageants of excess, by all the elements. A
masque representing fire was admirable; then came a
Venus out of the clouds. The conclusion was a heaven,
whither all ascended. But the glory of the masque was the
great persons performing in it, the French King, his
brother the Duke of Anjou, with all the Grandees of the
Court, the King performing to the admiration of all. The
music was twenty-nine violins, vested a l’antique, but the
habits of the masquers were stupendously rich and
glorious.

23rd. I went to take leave of the ambassadors for Spain,
which were my Lord Treasurer Cottington and Sir Edward
Hyde; and, as I returned, I visited Mr. Morine’s 2 garden,
and his other rarities, especially corals, minerals, stones,
and natural curiosities; crabs of the Red Sea, the body no
bigger than a small bird’s egg, but flatter, and the two legs,
cr claws, a foot in length. He had abundance of shells, at
least 1000 sorts, whch furnished a cabinet of great price;
and had a very curious collection of scarabees, and insects,
of which he was compiling a natural history. He had also
the pictures of his choice flowers and plants in miniature.
He told me there were 10,000 sorts of tulips only. He had
taille-douces out of number; the head of the Rhinoceros

1 The famous Venetian writer on Temperance.
2 Ante, p. 66,

266 Diary of [Paris

bird, which was very extravagant, and one butterfly
resembling a perfect bird.

25th May. I went to visit Mr. Thomas White, a learned
priest and famous philosopher,! author of the book ‘‘ De
Mundo,”’ with whose worthy brother J was well acquainted
at Rome. I was showed a cabinet of Maroquin, or Turkey
leather, so curiously inlaid with other leather, and gilding,
that the workman demanded for it 800 livres.

The Dean (of Peterborough) preached on the feast of
Pentecost, perstringing those of Geneva for their irrever-
ence of the Biessed Virgin.

4th June. Trinity-Sunday, I was absent from church in
the afternoon on a charitable affair for the Abbess of
Boucharvant, who but for me had been abused by that
chymist, Du Menie.2 Returning, I stept into the Grand
Jesuits, who had this high day exposed their Cibarium,
made all of solid gold and imagery, a piece of infinite cost.
Dr. Croydon, coming out of Italy and from Padua, came
to see me, on his return to England.

sth. I accompanied my Lord Strafford,? and some other
noble persons, to hear Madam Lavaran sing, which she did
both in French and Italian excellently well, but her voice
was not strong.

7th. Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession,
all the streets tapestried, several altars erected there, full
of images, and other rich furniture, especially that before
the Court, of a rare design and architecture. There were
abundance of excellent pictures and great vases of silver.

13th. I went to see the collection of one Monsieur Poig-
nant, which for variety of agates, crystals, onyxes, porce-
lain, medals, statues, relievos, paintings, taille-douces, and
antiquities, might compare with the Italian virtuosos.

21st. I became acquainted with Sieur Wiliam Curtius,

1 A native of Essex, who was born in 1582, educated abroad, and,
his family being Catholic, became a priest of that church, and sub-
rector of the college at Douay. He advocated the Cartesian philo-
sophy, and this brought him into an extensive correspondence with
Hobbes and Descartes, in the course of which he Latinised his name
into Thomas Albius, or De Albis. He died in 1676.

2 Is this the ‘‘ impostor ’’ mentioned, ante page 262, as pretending
to have found out the art of ‘‘ multiplying gold ’’?

This was William, the eldest son of the Earl who was executed ;
but he was not restored to his father’s titles till the Restoration. He

died in 1695. The ‘‘ Lord Wentworth ’’ adverted to by Evelyn in a
preceding page (251), was the son of the Earl of Cleveland.

1651] John Evelyn 267

a very learned and judicious person of the Palatinate. He
had been scholar to Alstedius, the Encyclopedist, was well
advanced in years, and now Resident for his Majesty at
Frankfort.

2nd July. Came to see me the Earl of Strafford, Lord
Ossory and his Brother, Sir John Southcott, Sir Edward
Stawell, two of my Lord Spencer’s sons, and Dr. Stewart,
Dean of St. Paul’s, a learned and pious man, where we
entertained the time upon several subjects, especially the
affairs of England, and the lamentable condition of our
Church. The Lord Gerrard! also called to see my collec-
tion of sieges and battles.

21st July. An extraordinary fast was celebrated in our
Chapel, Dr. Stewart, Dean of St. Paul’s, preaching.

2nd August. I went with my wife to Conflans, where
were abundance of ladies and others bathing in the river;
the ladies had their tents spread on the water for privacy.

29th. Was kept as a solemn fast for the calamities of
our poor Church, now trampled on by the rebels. Mr.
Waller, being at St. Germains, desired me to send him
a coach from Paris, to bring my wife’s god-daughter to
Paris, to be buried by the Common Prayer.

6th September. I went with my wife to St. Germains,
to condole with Mr. Waller’s loss. I carried with me and
treated at dinner that excellent and pious person the Dean
of St. Paul’s, Dr. Stewart, and Sir Lewis Dives (half-
brother to the Earl of Bristol), who entertained us with his
wonderful escape out of prison in Whitehall, the very even-
ing before he was to have been put to death, leaping down
out of a jakes two stories high into the Thames at high
water, in the coldest of winter, and at night; so as by
swimming he got to a boat that attended for him, though
he was guarded by six musketeers. After this, he went
about in women’s habit, and then in a small-coal-man’s,

1 Charles, son of Sir Charles Gerard, having served for some time
in the Netherlands, returned to England in time to join King Charles,
when his dispute with the Parliament was referred to the sword. He
was made a general officer, and eminently distinguished himself on
several] occasions, for which the King appointed him lieutenant-general
of his horse, and created him Baron Gerard, of Brandon, on the 8th
of November, 1645. By Charles II. he was raised to the dignity
of Viscount Brandon, and Ear! of Macclesfield, on the 23d of July,
1679; but by James II. he was sent to the Tower, in company with
the Lords Stamford and Delamere, and condemned to death, though
afterwards pardoned. He lived five years beyond the Revolution,

268 Diary of [Paris

travelling 200 miles on foot, embarked for Scotland with
some men he had raised, who coming on shore were all
surprised and imprisoned on the Marquis of Montrose’s
score; he not knowing anything of their barbarous murder
of that hero. This he told us was his fifth escape, and
none less miraculous; with this note, that the charging
through rooo men armed, or whatever danger could befall
a man, he believed could not more confound and distract
a man’s thoughts than the execution of a premeditated
escape, the passions of hope and fear being so strong.
This knight was indeed a valiant gentleman; but not a
little given to romance, when he spake of himself. I
returned to Paris the same evening.

7th September. I went to visit Mr. Hobbes, the
famous philosopher of Malmesbury, with whom I! had
long acquaintance. From his window, we saw the whole
equipage and glorious cavalcade of the young French
Monarch, Louis XIV., passing to Parliament, when first
he took the kingly government on him, now being in his
14th year, out of his minority and the Queen Regent’s
pupillage. First, came the captain of the King’s Aids, at
the head of so richly liveried; next, the Queen-Mother’s
light Horse, 100, the lieutenant being all over covered with
embroidery and ribbons, having before him four trumpets
habited in black velvet, full of lace, and casques of the
same. Then, the King’s Light Horse, 200, richly habited,
with four trumpets in blue velvet embroidered with gold,
before whom rid the Count d’Olonne coronet [cornet],
whose belt was set with pearl. Next went the grand
Prévét’s company on foot, with the Prévét on horseback ;
after them, the Swiss in black velvet toques, led by two
gallant cavaliers habited in scarlet-coloured satin, after
their country fashion, which is very fantastic; he had in
his cap a pennach of heron, with a band of diamonds, and
about him twelve little Swiss boys, with halberds. Then,
came the Aide des Cérémonies; next, the grandees of
court, governors of places, and lieutenants-general of
provinces, magnificently habited and mounted; among
whom I must not forget the Chevalier Paul, famous for |
many sea-fights and signal exploits there, because it is —
said he had never been an Academist, and yet governed
a very unruly horse, and besides his rich suit his Malta
Cross was esteemed at 10,000 crowns. These were headed

1651) John Evelyn 269

by two trumpets, and the whole troop, covered with gold,
jewels, and rich caparisons, were followed by six trumpets
in blue velvet also, preceding as many heralds in blue
velvet semée with fleurs-de-lis, caduces in their hands, and
velvet caps on their heads; behind them, came one of the
masters of the ceremonies; then, divers marshals and
many of the nobility, exceeding splendid; behind them
Count d’Harcourt, grand Ecuyer, alone, carrying the
King’s sword in a scarf, which he held up in a blue sheath
studded with fleurs-de-lis; his horse had for reins two
scarfs of black taffata.

Then, came abundance of footmen and pages of the
King, new-liveried with white and red feathers; next, the
garde du corps and other officers; and, lastly, appeared
the King himself on an Isabella barb, on which a housing
semée, with crosses of the Order of the Holy Ghost, and
fleurs-de-lis; the King himself, like a young Apollo, was in
a suit so covered with rich embroidery, that one could per-
ceive nothing of the stuff under it; he went almost the whole
way with his hat in hand, saluting the ladies and acclama-
tors, who had filled the windows with their beauty, and the
air with Vive le Rot. He seemed a prince of a grave yet
sweet countenance. After the King, followed divers great
persons of the Court, exceeding splendid, also his esquires ;
masters of horse, on foot; then the company of Exempts
des Gardes, and six guards of Scotch. Betwixt their files
were divers princes of the blood, dukes, and lords; after
all these, the Queen’s guard of Swiss, pages, and footmen ;
then, the Queen-Mother herself, in a rich coach, with
Monsieur the King’s brother, the Duke of Orleans, and
some other lords and ladies of honour. About the coach,
marched her Exempts des Gardes; then the company of
the King’s Gens d’armes, well mounted, 150, with four
trumpets, and as many of the Queen’s; lastly, an innumer-
able company of coaches full of ladies and gallants. In
this equipage, passed the monarch to the Parliament,
henceforth exercising his kingly government.

15th September. I accompanied Sir Richard Browne,
my father-in-law, to the French Court, when he had a
favourable audience of the French King, and the Queen,
his mother; congratulating the one on his coming to the
exercise of his royal charge, and the other’s prudent and
happy administration during her late regency, desiring

270 Diary of [Paris

both to preserve the same amity for his master, our King,
as they had hitherto done, which they both promised, with
many civil expressions and words of course upon such
occasions. We were accompanied both going and return-
ing by the Introductor of Ambassadors and Aid of Cere-
monies. J also saw the audience of Morosini, the Ambas-
sador of Venice, and divers other Ministers of State from
German Princes, Savoy, &c. Afterwards, I took a walk
in the King’s gardens, where I observed that the mall goes
the whole square there of next the wall, and bends with an
angle so made as to glance the wall; the angle is of stone.
There is a basin at the end of the garden fed by a noble
fountain and high jetto. There were in it two or three
boats, in which the King now and then rows about. In
another part is a complete fort, made with bastions, graft,
half-moons, ravelins, and furnished with great guns cast
on purpose to instruct the King in fortification.

22nd September. Arrived the news of the fatal battle at
Worcester, which exceedingly mortified our expectations.

28th. 1 was showed a collection of books and prints
made for the Duke of York. |

1st October. The Dean of Peterborough [Dr. Cosin]
preached on Job xiii. verse 15, encouraging our trust in
God on all events and extremities, and for establishing and
comforting some ladies of great quality, who were then to —
be discharged from our Queen-Mother’s service, unless
they would go over to the Romish Mass.

The Dean, dining this day at our house, told me the |
occasion of publishing those Offices, which among the
Puritans were wont to be called Cosin’s cogening Devo-
tions,1 by way of derision. At the first coming of the
Queen into England, she and her French ladies were often
upbraiding our religion, that had neither appointed nor set

1 So called by Prynne, in his ‘‘ brief survey” of this book. The
Dean having been sequestered from all his preferments by the Parlia-
ment, went abroad to Paris, 1643; and officiated, as we see, in Sir
Richard Browne’s Chapel there. Ante, pp. 254, 257, 266. He is
frequently mentioned both in the Diary and Letters of Evelyn, and
had a very good library, for the purchase of which Evelyn was in
treaty with him. See curious note, iii. 307. On the Restoration he
was made Bishop of Durham, to which preferment, as well as to
Peter-House, at Cambridge, of which he had been Master, he was a
munificent benefactor. He died in 1671, leaving behind him the

repute, to which Evelyn makes friendly exception as above, of one
of the most Pooish of Anglican divines.

1651] John Evelyn 271

forth any hours of prayer, or breviaries, by which ladies
and courtiers, who have much spare time, might edify
and be in devotion, as they had. Our Protestant ladies,
scandalised it seems at this, moved the matter to the King ;
whereupon his Majesty presently called Bishop White to
him, and asked his thoughts of it, and whether there might
not be found some forms of prayer proper on such occa-
sions, collected out of some already approved forms, that
so the court-ladies and others (who spend much time in
trifling) might at least appear as devout, and be so too,
as the new-come-over French ladies, who took occasion
to reproach our want of zeal and religion. On which, the
Bishop told his Majesty that it might be done easily, and
was very necessary ; whereupon the King commanded him
to employ some person of the clergy to compile such a
Work, and presently the Bishop naming Dr. Cosin, the
King enjoined him to charge the Doctor in his name to set
about it immediately. This the Dean told me he did; and
three months after, bringing the book to the King, he com-
manded the Bishop of London to read it over, and make
his report; this was so well liked, that (contrary to former
custom of doing it by a chaplain) he would needs give it an
imprimatur under his own hand. Upon this, there were at
first only 200 copies printed; nor, said he, was there any-
thing in the whole book of my own composure, nor did
I set any name as author to it, but those necessary
prefaces, &c. out of the Fathers, touching the times and
seasons of prayer; all the rest being entirely translated
and collected out of an Office published by authority of
Queen Elizabeth, anno 1560, and our own Liturgy. This
I rather mention to justify that industrious and Pious
Dean, who had exceedingly suffered by it, as if he had
done it of his own head to introduce Popery, from which
no man was more averse, and one who in this time of
temptation and apostacy held and confirmed many to our
Church.?

29th October. Came news and letters to the Queen and

1 The Clergy who attended the English Court in France at this
time, and are mentioned to have officiated in Sir Richard Browne's
Chapel, were: The Bishop of Galloway; Dr. George Morley, after-
wards Bishop of Winchester; Dr. Cosin, Dean of Peterborough, after-
wards Bishop of Durham; Dr. Stewart, Dean of St. Paul’s; Dr.

Earle; Dr. Clare; Dr. Wolley, no great preacher; Mr. Crowder;
Dr. Lioyd; Mr. Hamilton; Dr. Duncan.

272 Diary of (Paris

Sir Richard Browne (who was the first that had intelligence
of it) of his Majesty’s miraculous escape after the fight at
Worcester; which exceedingly rejoiced us.

7th November. I visited Sir Kenelm Digby, with whom
I bad much discourse on chemical matters. I showed him
a particular way of extracting oil of sulphur, and he gave
me a certain powder with which he affirmed that he had
fixed § (mercury) before the late King. He advised me to
try and digest a little better, and gave me a water which
he said was only rain-water of the autumnal equinox,
exceedingly rectified, very volatile; it had a taste of a
strong vitriolic, and smelt like aqua-fortis. He intended it
for a dissolvent of calx of gold; but the truth is, Sir
Kenelm was an arrant mountebank. Came news of the
gallant Earl of Derby’s execution by the rebels.

14th. Dr. Clare preached on Genesis xxviii. verses 20,
21, 22, upon Jacob’s vow, which he appositely applied, it
being the first Sunday his Majesty came to chapel after
his escape. I went, in the afternoon, to visit the Earl of
Norwich; he lay at the Lord of Aubigny’s.

16th. Visited Dean Stewart, who had been sick about
two days; when, going up to his lodging I found him
dead; which affected me much, as besides his particular
affection and love to me, he was of incomparable parts and
great learning, of exemplary life, and a very great loss to
the whole church. He was buried the next day with all
our church’s ceremonies, many noble persons accompanying
the corpse.

17th. I went to congratulate the marriage of Mrs.
Gardner, maid of honour, lately married to that odd per-
son, Sir Henry Wood: but riches do many things.

To see Monsieur Febur’s course of chymistry, where I
found Sir Kenelm Digby, and divers curious persons of
learning and quality. It was his first opening the course
and preliminaries, in order to operations.

1st December. I now resolved to return to England.

3rd. Sir Lewis Dives dined with us, who relating some
‘of his adventures, showed me divers pieces of broad gold, —
which, being in his pocket in a fight, preserved his life by
receiving a musket-bullet on them, which deadened its
violence, so that it went no further; but made such a
stroke on the gold as fixed the impressions upon one
another, battering and bending several of them; the bullet

1651] John Evelyn 273

itself was flatted, and retained on it the colour of the gold.
He assured us that of a hundred of them, which it seems
he then had in his pocket, not one escaped without some
blemish. He affirmed that his being protected by a Neapo-
litan Prince, who connived at his bringing some horses
into France, contrary to the order of the Viceroy, by assist-
ance of some banditti, was the occasion of a difference be-
tween those great men, and consequently of the late civil
war in that kingdom, the Viceroy having killed the Prince
standing on his defence at his own castle. He told me that
the second time of the Scots coming into England, the
King was six times their number, and might easily have
beaten them; but was betrayed, as were all other his
designs and counsels, by some, even of his bed-chamber,
meaning M. Hamilton, who copied Montrose’s letters from
time to time when his Majesty was asleep.

11th December. Came to visit me, Mr. Obadiah Walker,
of University College, with his two pupils, the sons of my
worthy friend, Henry Hyldiard, Esq.,} whom I had recom-
mended to his care.

21st, Came to visit my wife, Mrs. Lane,? the lady who
conveyed the king to the sea-side at his escape from Wor-
cester. Mr. John Cosin, son of the Dean, debauched by
the priests, wrote a letter to me to mediate for him with
his father.3 I prepared for my last journey, being now
resolved to leave France altogether.

25th. The King and Duke received the Sacrament first
by themselves, the Lords Byron and Wilmot holding the
long towel all along the altar.

26th December. Came news of the death of that rebel,
Ireton.

31st. Preached Dr. Wolley, after which was celebrated
the Holy Communion, which I received also, preparative
of my journey, being now resolved to leave France alto-
gether, and to return God Almighty thanks for His
gracious protection of me this past year.

1651-2. 2nd january. News of my sister Glanville’s
death in childbed, which exceedingly affected me.

1 Of East Horsley fn Surrey.

3 Sister of Colonel Lane, an English officer in the army of Charles
II. dispersed at the battle of Worcester. She assisted the King in
effecting his escape after that battle, his Majesty travelling with her

disguised as her serving-man, William Jackson.
3 See ‘‘ Correspondence,” vol. iii. p. 58; and post, p. 277.

274 Diary of [Calais

I went to one Mark Antonio, an incomparable artist in
enamelling. He wrought by the lamp figures in boss, of a
large size, even to the life, so that nothing could be better
moulded. He told us stories of a Genoese jeweller, who
had the great arcanum, and had made projection before
him several times. He met him at Cyprus travelling into
Egypt; in his return from whence, he died at sea, and the
secret with him, that else he had promised to have left it
to him; that all his effects were seized on, and dissipated
by the Greeks in the vessel, to an immense value. He also
affirmed, that being in a goldsmith’s shop at Amsterdam, |
a person of very low stature came in, and desired the gold-
smith to melt him a pound of lead; which done, he un-
screwed the pommel of his sword, and taking out of a little
box a small quantity of powder, casting it into the crucible,
poured an ingot out, which when cold he took up, saying,
‘* Sir, you will be paid for your lead in the crucible,’’ and
so went out immediately. When he was gone the goldsmith
found four ounces of good gold in it; but could never set
eye again on the little man, though he sought all the city
for him. Antonio asserted this with great obtestation; nor
know I what to think of it, there are so many impostors
and people who love to tell strange stories, as this artist
did, who had been a great rover, and spoke ten different
languages.

13th. I took leave of Mr. Waller, who, having been
proscribed by the rebels, had obtained of them permission
to return, was going to England.

29th. Abundance of my French and English friends and
some Germans came to take leave of me, and I set out ina
coach for Calais, in an exceeding hard frost which had
continued some time. We got that night to Beaumont;
30th, to Beauvais; 31st, we found the ways very deep with
snow, and it was exceeding cold; dined at Pois; lay at
Pernée, a miserable cottage of miserable people in a wood,
wholly unfurnished, but in a little time we had sorry beds
and some provision, which they told me they hid in the
wood for fear of the frontier enemy, the garrisons near
them continually plundering what they had. They were
often infested with wolves. I cannot remember that I
ever saw more miserable creatures. .

1st February. I dined at Abbeville; 2nd, dined at Mon-
treuil, lay at Boulogne; 3rd, came to Calais, by eleven in

1652] John Evelyn 275

the morning; I thought to have embarked in the evening,
but, for fear of pirates plying near the coast, I durst not
trust our small vessel, and stayed till Monday following,
when two or three lusty vessels were to depart.

I brought with me from Paris Mr. Christopher Wase,
sometime before made to resign his Fellowship in King’s
College, Cambridge, because he would not take the Cove-
nant. He had been a soldier in Flanders, and came miser-
able to Paris. From his excellent learning, and some
relation he had to Sir R. Browne, I bore his charges into
England, and clad and provided for him, till he should find
some better condition; and he was worthy of it.1 There
came with us also Captain Griffith, Mr. Tyrell, brother to
Sir Timothy Tyrrel, of Shotover (near Oxford).

At Calais, I dined with my Lord Wentworth, and met
with Mr. Heath, Sir Richard Lloyd, Captain Paine, and
divers of our banished friends, of whom understanding
that the Count de la Strade, Governor of Dunkirk, was in
the town, who had bought my wife’s picture, taken by
pirates at sea the year before (my wife having sent it for
me in England,) as my Lord of Norwich had informed me
at Paris, I made my address to him, who frankly told me
that he had such a picture in his own bed-chamber amongst
other ladies, and how he came by it; seeming well pleased
that it was his fortune to preserve it for me, and he gener-
ously promised to send it to any friend I had at Dover; |
mentioned a French merchant there, and so took my
leave.2

6th. I embarked early in the packet-boat, but put my
goods in a stouter vessel. It was calm, so that we got not
to Dover till eight at night. I took horse for Canterbury,
and lay at Rochester; next day, to Gravesend, took a pair
of oars, and landed at Sayes Court, where I stayed three
days to refresh, and look after my packet and goods, sent
by a stouter vessel. I went to visit my cousin, Richard
Fanshawe, and divers other friends.
6th March. Saw the magnificent funeral of that arch-
rebel, Ireton, carried in pomp from Somerset House to
Westminster, accompanied with divers regiments of
soldiers, horse and foot; then marched the mourners,
General Cromwell (his father-in-law), his mock-parlia-

i Evelyn afterwards obtained an employment for him.
* The picture was sent accordingly. Post p. 278,

276 Diar y of (Deptford

ment-men, officers, and forty poor men in gowns, three
led horses in housings of black cloth, two led in black
velvet, and his charging-horse, all covered over with em-
broidery and gold, on crimson velvet; then the guidons,
ensigns, four heralds, carrying the arms of the State (as
they called it), namely, the red cross and Ireland, with the
casque, wreath, sword, spurs, &c. ; next, a chariot canopied
of black velvet and six horses, in which was the corpse;
the pall held up by the mourners on foot; the mace and
sword, with other marks of his charge in Ireland (where
he died of the plague), carried before in black scarfs.
Thus, in a grave pace, drums covered with cloth, soldiers
reversing their arms, they proceeded through the streets
in a very solemn manner. This Ireton was a stout rebel,
and had been very bloody to the King’s party, witness his
severity at Colchester, when in cold blood he put to death
those gallant gentlemen, Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George
Lisle. My cousin, R. Fanshawe, came to visit me, and
inform me of many considerable affairs. Sir Henry Herbert
presented me with his brother, my Lord Cherbury’s book,
De Veritate.

goth. I went to Deptford, where I made preparation for
my settlement, no more intending to go out of England,
but endeavour a settled life, either in this or some other
place, there being now so little appearance of any change
for the better, all being entirely in the rebels’ hands; and
this particular habitation and the estate contiguous to it
(belonging to my father-in-law, actually in his Majesty’s
service) very much suffering for want of some friend to
rescue it out of the power of the usurpers, so as to preserve
our interest, and take some care of my other concerns, by
the advice and endeavour of my friends I was advised to
reside in it, and compound with the soldiers. This I was
besides authorised by his Majesty to do, and encouraged
with a promise that what was in lease from the Crown, if
ever it pleased God to restore him, he would secure to us
in fee-farm. I had also addresses and cyphers, to corre-
spond with his Majesty and Ministers abroad: upon all
which inducements, I was persuaded to settle henceforth
in England, having now run about the world, most part
out of my own country, near ten years. I] therefore now
likewise meditated sending over for my wife, whom as yet —
I had left at Paris.

1652] John Evelyn 277

14th March. J went to Lewisham, where I heard an
honest sermon on 1 Cor. ii. 5~7, being the first Sunday
I had been at church since my return, it being now a rare
thing to find a priest of the Church of England in a parish
pulpit, most of which were filled with Independents and
Fanatics.

15th. I saw the Diamond and Ruby launched in the
Dock at Deptford, carrying forty-eight brass cannon each;
Cromwell and his grandees present, with great acclama-
tions.

18th. That worthy divine, Mr. Owen, of Eltham, a
sequestered person, came to visit me.

1gth. Invited by Lady Gerrard, I went to London,
where we had a great supper; all the vessels, which were
innumerable, were of porcelain, she having the most ample
and richest collection of that curiosity in England.

22nd. I went with my brother Evelyn to Wotton, to
give him what directions I was able about his garden,
which he was now desirous to put into some form; but
for which he was to remove a mountain overgrown with
huge trees and thicket, with a moat within ten yards of
the house. This my brother immediately attempted, and
that without great cost, for more than a hundred yards
south, by digging down the mountain, and flinging it into
a rapid stream; it not only carried away the sand, &c., but
filled up the moat, and levelled that noble area, where now
the garden and fountain is.1_ The first occasion of my
brother making this alteration was my building the little
retiring place between the great wood eastward next the
meadow, where, some time after my father’s death, I made
a triangular pond, or little stew, with an artificial rock,
after my coming out of Flanders.

29th. I heard that excellent prelate, the primate of
Ireland (Jacobus Usher) preach in Lincoln’s Inn, on Heb.
iv. 16, encouraging of penitent sinners.

sth April. My brother George brought to Sayes Court
Cromwell’s Act of Oblivion to all that would submit to the
Government.

13th. News was brought me that Lady Cotton, my
brother George’s wife, was delivered of a son.

I was moved by a letter out of France to publish the
letter which some time since I sent to Dean Cosin’s prose-

1 The fountain still remains.

278 Diar y of [London

lyted son; but I did not conceive it convenient, for fear of
displeasing her Majesty, the Queen.

15th. I wrote to the Dean, touching my buying his
library, which was one of the choicest collections of any
private person in England.

The Count de Strade most generously and handsomely
sent me the picture of my wife from Dunkirk,! in a large
tin case, without any charge. It is of Mr. Bourdon, and
is that which has the dog in it, and is to the knees, but
it has been something spoiled by washing it ignorantly with
soap-suds.

25th. I went to visit Alderman Kendrick, a fanatic Lord
Mayor, who had married a relation of ours, where I met
with a Captain who had been thirteen times to the East
Indies.

29th. Was that celebrated eclipse of the sun, so much
threatened by the astrologers, and which had so exceed-
ingly alarmed the whole nation that hardly any one would
work, nor stir out of their houses. So ridiculously were
they abused by knavish and ignorant star-gazers !

We went this afternoon to see the Queen’s house at
Greenwich, now given by the rebels to Bulstrode White-
locke, one of their unhappy counsellors, and keeper of
pretended liberties.

1oth May. Passing by Smithfield, I saw a miserable
creature burning, who had murdered her husband. I went
to see some workmanship of that admirable artist, Reeves,
famous for perspective, and turning curiosities in ivory.

29th. I went to give order about a coach to be made
against my wife’s coming, being my first coach, the pattern —
whereof I brought out of Paris.

30th. I went to obtain of my Lord Devonshire? that
my nephew, George, might be brought up with my young
Lord, his son, to whom I was recommending Mr. Wase.
I also inspected the manner of camletting silk and gro-
grams at one Monsieur La Dorées in Moor-fields, and
thence to Colonel Morley, one of their Council of State,
as then called, who had been my schoolfellow, to request

1 See ante, pages 247, 275.

2 William, third Earl. He died in 1684. ‘‘ My young Lord,”
with whom Evelyn desired that his nephew George might ‘‘ be
brought up,’’ was his only son, William, created on the 12th May

1694 Marquis of Harlington, and Duke of Devonshire. He was also
Knight of the Garter and Lord Steward of the Household.

1652] John Evelyn 279

a pass for my wife’s safe landing, and the goods she was to
bring with her out of France; which he courteously
granted, and did me many other kindnesses, that was a
great matter in those days.

In the afternoon, at Charlton church, where I heard a
Rabinical sermon. Here is a fair monument in black
marble of Sir Adam Newton,! who built that fair house
near it for Prince Henry, and where my noble friend, Sir
Henry Newton, succeeded him.

3rd June. I received a letter from Colonel Morley to
the Magistrates and Searchers at Rye, to assist my wife at
her landing, and show her all civility.

4th. I set out to meet her now on her journey from
Paris, after she had obtained leave to come out of that
city, which had now been besieged some time by the
Prince of Condé’s army in the time of the rebellion, and
after she had been now near twelve years from her own
country, that is, since five years of age, at which time she
went over. I went to Rye to meet her, where was an
embargo on occasion of the late conflict with the Holland
fleet, the two nations being now in war, and which made
sailing very unsafe.

On Whit Sunday, I went to the church (which is a very
fair one), and heard one of the canters, who dismissed the
assembly rudely, and without any blessing. Here I stayed
till the roth with no small impatience, when I walked over
to survey the ruins of Winchelsea, that ancient cinq-port,
which by the remains and ruins of ancient streets and public
structures, discovers it to have been formerly a consider-
able and large city. There are to be seen vast caves and
vaults, walls and towers, ruins of monasteries and of a
sumptuous church, in which are some handsome monu-
ments, especially of the Templars, buried just in the manner
of those in the Temple at London. This place being now all
in rubbish, and a few despicable hovels and cottages only

1 Tutor and afterwards secretary to Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest
son of James I., who, in April, 1620, created him a baronet. An
admirable scholar. After the death of Prince Henry, Sir Adam
Newton was appointed treasurer to Prince Charles, and in 1628
succeeded Lord Brooke as secretary to the Marches of Wales. He
died in 1629-30, leaving one son—Evelyn’s ‘‘ noble friend ’’—Sir
Henry Newton, who, on the decease of the last surviving daughter
of his uncle, Sir Thomas Pickering, succeeded to his estate and
assumed his name.

280 Diary of (Tunbridge

standing, hath yet a Mayor. The sea, which formerly
rendered it a rich and commodious port, has now forsaken
LE.

11th June. About four in the afternoon, being at bowls
on the green, we discovered a vessel which proved to be
that in which my wife was, and which got into the harbour
about eight that evening, to my no small joy. They had
been three days at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleet,
through which they passed, taken for fishers, which was
great good fortune, there being seventeen bales of furniture
and other rich plunder, which I bless God came all safe to
land, together with my wife, and my Lady Browne, her
mother, who accompanied her. My wife being discomposed
by having been so long at sea, we set not forth towards
home till the 14th, when hearing the small-pox was very
rife in and about London, and Lady Browne having a
desire to drink Tunbridge waters, I carried them thither,
and stayed in a very sweet place, private and refreshing,
and took the waters myself till the 23rd, when I went to
prepare for their reception, leaving them for the present
in their little cottage by the Wells.

The weather being hot, and having sent my man on
before, I rode negligently under favour of the shade, till,
within three miles of Bromley, at a place called the Proces-
sion Oak, two cut-throats started out, and striking with long

staves at the horse, and taking hold of the reins, threw me |

down, took my sword, and hauled me into a deep thicket,
some quarter of a mile from the highway, where they
might securely rob me, as they soon did. What they got
of money, was not considerable, but they took two rings,
the one an emerald with diamonds, the other an onyx, and
a pair of buckles set with rubies and diamonds, which were
of value, and after all bound my hands behind me, and
my feet, having before pulled off my boots; they then set
me up against an oak, with most bloody threats to cut my

throat if I offered to cry out, or make any noise; for they —
should be within hearing, I not being the person they —

looked for. I told them that if they had not basely surprised
me they should not have had so easy a prize, and that it
would teach me never to ride near a hedge, since, had I
been in the mid-way, they durst not have adventured on
me; at which they cocked their pistols, and told me they
had long guns, too, and were fourteen companions. I

1652) John Evelyn 281

begged for my onyx, and told them it being engraved with
my arms would betray them; but nothing prevailed. My
horse’s bridle they slipped, and searched the saddle, which
they pulled off, but let the horse graze, and then turning
again bridled him and tied him to a tree, yet so as he
might graze, and thus left me bound. My horse was
perhaps not taken, because he was marked and cropped
on both ears, and well known on that road. Left in this
manner, grievously was I tormented with flies, ants, and
the sun, nor was my anxiety little how I should get loose
in that solitary place, where I could neither hear nor see
any creature but my poor horse and a few sheep straggling
in the copse.

After near two hours attempting, I got my hands to turn
palm to palm, having been tied back to back, and then it
was long before I could slip the cord over my wrists to my
thumb, which at last I did, and then soon unbound my feet,
and saddling my horse and roaming a while about, | at
last perceived dust to rise, and soon after heard the rattling
of a cart, towards which I made, and, by the help of two
countrymen, [ got back into the highway. I rode to
Colonel Blount’s, a great justiciary of the times, who sent
out hue and cry immediately. The next morning, sore as
my wrists and arms were, I went to London, and got 500
tickets printed and dispersed by an officer of Goldsmiths’
Hall, and within two days had tidings of all I had lost,
except my sword, which had a silver hilt, and some trifles.
The rogues had pawned one of my rings for a trifle to a
goldsmith’s servant, before the tickets came to the shop,
by which means they escaped; the other ring was bought
by a victualler, who brought it to a goldsmith, but he
having seen the ticket seized the man. I afterwards dis-
charged him on his protestation of innocence. Thus did
God deliver me from these villains, and not only so, but
restored what they took, as twice before he had graciously
done, both at sea and land; I mean when I had been
robbed by pirates, and was in danger of a considerable loss
at Amsterdam; for which, and many, many signal preser-
vations, | am extremely obliged to give thanks to God my
Saviour.

25th June. After a drought of near four months, there
fell so violent a tempest of hail, rain, wind, thunder, and
lightning, as no man had seen the like in his age; the hail

282 Diary of [Penshurst ©

being in some places four or five inches about, brake all
glass about London especially at Deptford, and more at
Greenwich.

29th. I returned to Tunbridge, and again drank the
water, till roth July.

We went to see the house of my Lord Clanrickarde at
Summer-hiJl, near Tunbridge (now given to that villain,
Bradshawe, who condemned the King). ’Tis situated on -
an eminent hill, with a park; but has nothing else extra-
ordinary.

4th July. I heard a sermon at Mr. Packer’s chapel at
Groomsbridge,! a pretty melancholy seat, well wooded and
watered. In this house was one of the French Kings ? kept
prisoner. The chapel was built by Mr. Packer’s father, in
remembrance of King Charies the First’s safe return out
of Spain.3

oth. We went to see Penshurst, the Earl of Leicester’s,
famous once for its gardens and excellent fruit, and for the
noble conversation which was wont to meet there, cele-
brated by that illustrious person, Sir Philip Sidney, who
there composed divers of his pieces. It stands in a park,
is finely watered, and was now full of company, on the
marriage of my old fellow collegiate, Mr. Robert Smith,
who married my Lady Dorothy Sidney,4 widow of the Earl
of Sunderland.

One of the men who robbed me was taken; I was accord-
ingly summoned to appear against him; and, on the rath,
was in Westminster Hall, but not being bound over, nor
willing to hang the fellow, I did not appear, coming only to
save a friend’s bail; but the bill being found, he was turned
over to the Old Bailey. In the mean time, I received
petition from the prisoner, whose father I understood wa
an honest old farmer in Kent. He was charged with othe
crimes, and condemned, but reprieved. I heard afterward

1 In the parish of Speldhurst, in Kent, four miles from Tunbridge
Mr. Packer was Clerk of the Privy Seal to Charles I.

2 The Duke of Orleans, taken at the battle of Agincourt, 4 Hen
V., by Richard Waller, then owner of this place. See Hasted’s Kent
vol. i. p. 431.

3 With this inscription (according to Hasted, i. p. 432) over th
door, ‘‘ D. O. M. 1625, ob felicissimum Caroli Principis ex Hispani
reditum Sacellum hoc D. D. I. P.;’’ and over it the device of th
Prince of Wales.

4 Waller’s Sacharissa, daughter of Philip, Earl of Leicester.

1652) John Evelyn 283

that, had it not been for his companion, a younger man,
he would probably have killed me. He was afterwards
charged with some other crime, but, refusing to plead, was
pressed to death.

23rd July. Came my old friend, Mr. Spencer, to visit
me.

30th. I took advice about purchasing Sir Richard’s
[Browne] interest of those who had bought Sayes Court.

1st August. Came old Jerome Lennier, of Greenwich, a
man skilled in painting and music, and another rare
musician, called Mell. I went to see his collection of pic-
tures, especially those of Julio Romano, which surely had
been the King’s, and an Egyptian figure, &c. There were
also excellent things of Polydore, Guido, Raphael, and
Tintoretto. Lennier had been a domestic of Queen Eliza-
beth, and showed me her head, an intaglio in a rare sar-
donyx, cut by a famous Italian, which he assured me was
exceeding like her.

24th. My first child, a son, was born precisely at one
o’clock.

2nd September. Mr. Owen, the sequestered divine, of
Eltham, christened my son by the name of Richard.

22nd. I went to Woodcott, where Lady Browne was
taken with a scarlet fever, and died. She was carried to
Deptford, and interred in the church near Sir Richard’s
relations with all decent ceremonies, and according to the
church-office, for which I obtained permission, after it had
not been used in that church for seven years. Thus ended
an excellent and virtuous lady, universally lamented,
having been so obliging on all occasions to those who con-
tinually frequented her house in Paris, which was not only
an hospital, but an asylum to all our persecuted and afflicted
countrymen, during eleven years’ residence there in that
honourable situation.

25th September. I went to see Dr. Mason’s house, so
famous for the prospect (for the house is a wretched one)
and description of Barclay’s Icon Animarum.}

1 The book here referred to is in the British Museum, entitled
Joannis Barclati Icon Animarum, and printed at London, 1614, small
12mo. It is written in Latin, and dedicated to Lewis XIII. of France,
for what reason does not appear, the author speaking of himself as
a subject of this country. It mentions the necessity of forming the

minds of youth, as a skilful gardener forms his trees; the different
dispositions of men, in different nations; English, Scotch, and Irish,

I 220 L

284 Diary of [Sayes Court

sth November. To London, to visit some friends, but
the insolences were so great in the streets that I could not
return till the next day.

Dr. Scarborough! was instant with me to give the
Tables of Veins and Arteries to the College of Physicians,
pretending he would not only read upon them, but cele-
brate my curiosity as being the first who caused them to
be completed in that manner, and with that cost; but |
was not so willing yet to part with them, as to lend them to
the College during their anatomical lectures; which | did
accordingly.

22nd. | went to London, where was proposed to me the
promoting that great work (since accomplished by Dr.
Walton, Bishop of Chester), Biblia Polyglotta, by Mr.
Pierson, that most learned divine.

25th December. Christmas-day, no sermon anywhere,
no church being permitted to be open, so observed it at
home. The next day, we went to Lewisham, where an
honest divine preached.

31st. I adjusted all accompts, and rendered thanks to
Almighty God for his mercies to me the year past.

1st January, 1652-3. I set apart in preparation for the
Blessed Sacrament, which the next day Mr. Owen adminis-
tered to me and all my family in Sayes Court, preaching
on John vi. 32, 33, Showing the exceeding benefits of our
Blessed Saviour taking our nature upon him. He had chris-
tened my son and churched my wife in our own house as
before noticed.

17th. I began to set out the oval garden at Sayes Court,
which was before a rude orchard, and all the rest one
entire field of 100 acres, without any hedge, except the
hither holly-hedge joining to the bank of the mount walk.
This was the beginning of all the succeeding gardens,
walks, groves, enclosures, and plantations there.

&c. Chapter second contains a florid description of the beautiful
peenenT about Greenwich, but does not mention Dr. Mason, or his
ouse.

1 Sir Charles Scarborough was educated at Caius College, Cam-
bridge, where he obtained a Fellowship. He afterwards studied
medicine; but making himself too conspicuous as a Royalist during
the troubles, was deprived of his Fellowship, and found it neces-
sary to retire to Oxford. Subsequently he practised in London as a
physician, and at the Restoration received the honour of knighthood,

and was named one of the King’s physicians. He succeeded Harvey
at Surgeons’ Hall as lecturer. See ‘*Correspondence,” iii. 391.

1653] John Evelyn 285

21st. I went to London, and sealed some of the writings
of my purchase of Sayes Court.

30th. At our own parish-church, a stranger preached.
There was now and then an honest orthodox man got into
the pulpit, and, though the present incumbent was some-
what of the Independent, yet he ordinarily preached sound
doctrine, and was a peaceable man; which was an extra-
ordinary felicity in this age.

tst February. Old Alexander Rosse (author of Vir-
gilius Evangelizans, and many other little books) presented
me with his book against Mr. Hobbes’s Leviathan.

1gth. I planted the orchard at Sayes Court; new moon,
wind west.

22nd. Was perfected the sealing, livery and seisin of
my purchase of Sayes Court. My brother, George Glan-
ville, Mr. Scudamore, Mr. Offley, Co. William Glanville
(son to Serjeant Glanville, sometime Speaker of the House
of Commons), Co. Stephens, and several of my friends
dining with me. I had bargained for 3200l., but I paid
35001.

25th March. Came to see me that rare graver in taille-
douce, Monsieur Richett; he was sent by Cardinal Maz-
arine to make a collection of pictures.

11th April. I went to take the air in Hyde Park, where
every coach was made to pay a shilling, and horse six-
pence, by the sordid fellow who had purchased it of the
State, as they called it.

17th May. My servant Hoare, who wrote those exqui-
site several hands, fell of a fit of an apoplexy, caused, as I
suppose, by tampering with § (mercury) about an experi:
ment in gold.

29th. I went to London, to take my last leave of my
honest friend, Mr. Barton, now dying: it was a great loss
to me and to my affairs. On the sixth of June, I attended
his funeral.

8th June. Came my brother George, Captain Evelyn,
the great traveller, Mr. Muschamp, my cousin, Thomas
Keightly, and a virtuoso, fastastical Simons,! who had the
talent of embossing so to the life.

gth. I went to visit my worthy neighbour, Sir Henry
Newton [at Charlton], and consider the prospect, which is

1 Thomas Simons, a strange eccentric person, but a most excellent
modeller after life, and engraver of medals.

286 Diary of (Charlton

doubtless for city, river, ships, meadows, hill, woods, and
all other amenities, one of the most noble in the world;
so as, had the house running water, it were a princely seat.
Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in-law came to visit me, and
he presented me with a seleniscope.

1gth. This day, I paid all my debts to a farthing; oh,
blessed day !

21st. My Lady Gerrard, and one Esquire Knight, a
very rich gentleman, living in Northamptonshire, visited |
me.
23rd. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, came to see my |
collections.

27th. Monsieur Roupel sent me a small phial of his
aurum potabile, with a letter, showing the way of adminis-
tering it, and the stupendous cures it had done at Paris;
but, ere it came to me, by what accident I know not, it
was all run out.

17th August. I went to visit Mr. Hyldiard, at his house
at Horsley (formerly the great Sir Walter Raleigh’s 4),
where met me Mr. Oughtred, the famous mathematician ;
he showed me a box, or golden case, of divers rich and
aromatic balsams, which a chymist, a scholar of his, had
sent him out of Germany.

21st. I heard that good old man, Mr. Higham, the
parson of the parish of Wotton where I was born, and
who had baptised me, preach after his very plain way on
Luke, comparing this troublesome world to the sea, the!
ministers to the fishermen, and the saints to the fish.

22nd. We all went to Guildford, to rejoice at the famous
inn, the Red Lion, and to see the Hospital, and the monu-
ment of Archbishop Abbot, the founder, who lies buried
in the chapel of his endowment.

28th September. At Greenwich preached that holy
martyr, Dr. Hewer, on Psalm xc. 11, magnifying the grace
of God to penitents, and threatening the extinction of his
Gospel light for the prodigious impiety of the age.

11th October. Myson, John Stansfield, was born, being
my second child, and christened by the name of my
mother’s father, that name now quite extinct, being of
Cheshire. Christened by Mr. Owen, in my library at
Sayes Court, where he afterwards churched my wife, I

1 Evelyn is here in error: Mr. Hyldiard was of East Horsley, Sir
Walter of West.

1654] John Evelyn 287

always making use of him on these occasions, because the
parish minister durst not have officiated according to the
form and usage of the Church of England, to which I
always adhered.

25th. Mr. Owen preached in my library at Sayes Court
on Luke xviii. 7, 8, an excellent discourse on the unjust
judge, showing why Almighty God would sometimes be
compared by such similitudes. He afterwards administered
to us all the Holy Sacrament.

28th. Went to London, to visit my Lady Gerrard, where
I saw that cursed woman called the Lady Norton, of whom
it was reported that she spit in our King’s face as he went
to the scaffold. Indeed, her talk and discourse was like an
impudent woman.

21st November. I went to London, to speak with Sir
John Evelyn, my kinsman, about the purchase of an estate
of Mr. Lambard’s at Westeram, which afterwards Sir John
himself bought for his son-in-law, Leech.

4th December. Going this day to our church, I was
surprised to see a tradesman, a mechanic, step up; I was
resolved yet to stay and see what he would make of it.
His text was from 2 Sam. xxiii. 20: ‘‘ And Benaiah went
down also and slew a lion in the midst of a pit in the time
of snow;’’ the purport was, that no danger was to be
thought difficult when God called for shedding of blood,
inferring that now the saints were called to destroy tem-
poral governments; with such feculent stuff; so dangerous
a crisis were things grown to.

25th. Christmas-day. No churches, or public assembly.
I was fain to pass the devotions of that Blessed day with
my family at home.

1653-4. 20th January. Come to see my old acquaintance
and the most incomparable player on the Irish harp, Mr.
Clark,} after his travels. He was an excellent musician, a
discreet gentleman, born in Devonshire (as I remember).
Such music before or since did I never hear, that instrument
being neglected for its extraordinary difficulty; but, in my
judgment, far superior to the lute itself, or whatever speaks
with strings.

25th. Died my son, J. Stansfield, of convulsion-fits ;
buried at Deptford on the east corner of the church, near
his mother’s great-grandfather, and other relatives.

1 See under the year 1688, November, vol. ii. p. 38.

288 Diary of [London

8th February. Ash-Wednesday. In contradiction to all
custom and decency, the usurper, Cromwell feasted at the
Lord Mayor’s, riding in triumph through the city.

14th. I saw a tame lion play familiarly with a lamb;
he was a huge beast, and I thrust my hand into his mouth
and found his tongue rough like a cat’s; a sheep also with
six legs, which made use of five of them to walk; a goose
that had four legs, two crops, and as many vents.

29th March. That excellent man, Mr. Owen, preached
in my library on Matt. xxviii. 6, a resurrection-sermon, and
after it we all received the Holy Communion.

6th April. Came my Lord Herbert, Sir Kenelm Digby,
Mr. Denham, and other friends, to see me.

15th. 1 went to London, to hear the famous Dr. Jeremy
Taylor (since Bishop of Down and Connor) at St. Gregory’s
(near St. Paul’s) on Matt. vi. 48, concerning evangelical
perfection.

sth May. I bound my lackey, Thomas Headley, appren-
tice to a carpenter, giving with him five pounds and new
clothing ; he thrived very well, and became rich.

8th. I went to Hackney, to see Lady Brook’s gar-
den, which was one of the neatest and most celebrated
in England, the house well furnished, but a despicable
building. Returning, visited one Mr. Tomb’s garden; it
has large and noble walks, some modern statues, a vine-
yard, planted in strawberry borders, staked at ten feet dis-
tances; the banqueting-house of cedar, where the couch
and seats were carved 4 l’antique; some good pictures in
the house, especially one of Vandyke’s, being a man in his
shirt; also some of Stenwyck. I also called at Mr. Ducie’s,
who has indeed a rare collection of the best masters, and
one of the largest stories of H. Holbein. I also saw Sir
Thomas Fowler’s aviary, which is a poor business.

roth. My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Gar-
den,} now the only place of refreshment about the town

1 Mulberry Garden stood on the site of what is now Buckingham
Palace and Gardens, a garden of mulberry trees having been planted
there by James the First. The houses which preceded Buckingham
Palace on the site, were Goring House, Arlington House, and the —
Queen’s House, the latter having been pulled down to erect the
present building. Sedley made the Mulberry Garden the subject of
a comedy, and it was not closed, as a place of entertainment, until
the date of Charles the Second’s grant of it to Bennet, Earl of ©
Arlington, in 1673.

1654] John Evelyn 289

for persons of the best quality to be exceedingly cheated at;
Cromwell and his partisans having shut up and seized on
Spring Garden, which, till now, had been the usual ren-
dezvous for the ladies and gallants at this season.

11th. I now observed how the women began to paint
themselves, formerly a most ignominious thing, and used
only by prostitutes.

14th. There being no such thing as church-anniversaries
in the parochial assemblies, I was forced to provide at home
for Whit Sunday.

15th. Came Sir Robert Stapyiton, the translator of
‘** Juvenal,’’ to visit me.1

8th June. My wife and I set out in a coach and four
horses, in our way to visit relations of hers in Wiltshire,
and other parts, where we resolved to spend some months.
We dined at Windsor, saw the Castle and Chapel of St.
George, where they have laid our blessed Martyr, King
Charles, in the vault just before the altar. The church and
workmanship in stone is admirable. The Castle itself is
large in circumference; but the rooms melancholy, and of
ancient magnificence. The keep, or mount, hath, besides
its incomparable prospect, a very profound well; and the
terrace towards Eton, with the park, meandering Thames,
and sweet meadows, yield one of the most delightful pro-
spects. That night, we lay at Reading. Saw my Lord
Craven’s? house at Causam [Caversham], now in ruins,
his goodly woods felling by the Rebels.

gth. Dined at Marlborough, which having been lately

1 A member of a Yorkshire Catholic family, who obtained the post of
Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Prince Charles (Charles II.), occa-
sionally varying his duties by fighting against the Parliamentarians
and writing books. For his services at Edgehill, Charles I. con-
ferred on him the honour of knighthood; and, at about the same
period, he was made LL.D. at Oxford. At the Restoration, Sir
Robert Stapylton appeared as a writer of plays, poems, and transla-
tions. He died in 1669.

2 William, eldest son of Sir William Craven, Lord Mayor of
London, who, after a good deal of service under Gustavus Adolphus
and Henry Prince of Orange, distinguished himself against the forces
of the Parliament, and was created by Charles I., in 1663, Viscount
and Earl Craven. He survived all the changes of the government,
and, in the latter years of his life, acquired some celebrity from an
odd peculiarity of taste. He was so sure to be at any conflagration
that occurred in London, that the people said his horse ‘‘ smelt a
fire as soon as it happened.’’ He died, April goth, 1697, at the

advanced age of eighty-eight.

290 Diary of [Bath

fired, was now new built. At one end of this town, we saw
my Lord Seymour’s house,! but nothing observable save
the Mount, to which we ascended by windings for near half
a mile. It seems to have been cast up by hand. We passed
by Colonel Popham’s, a noble seat, park, and river.
Thence, to Newbury, a considerable town, and Donnington,
famous for its battle, siege, and castle; this last had been
in the possession of old Geoffrey Chaucer. Then to Alder-
maston, a house of Sir Humphrey Forster’s, built @ la
moderne. Also, that exceedingly beautiful seat of my Lord
Pembroke, on the ascent of a hill, flanked with wood, and
regarding the river; and so, at night, to Cadenham, the
mansion of Edward Hungerford, Esq., uncle to my wife,
where we made some stay. The rest of the week we did
nothing but feast and make good cheer, to welcome my
wife.

27th. We all went to see Bath, where I bathed in the
cross bath. Among the rest of the idie diversions of the
town, One musician was famous for acting a changeling,
which indeed he personated strangely.

The facciata of this cathedral is remarkable for its his-
torical carving. The King’s Bath is esteemed the fairest
in Europe. The town is entirely built of stone, but the
streets narrow, uneven and unpleasant. Here, we trifled
and bathed, and inter-visited with the company who fre-
quent the place for health, till the 30th, and then went to
Bristol, a city emulating London, not for its large extent,
but manner of building, shops, bridge, traffic, exchange,
market-place, &c. The governor showed us the castle, of
no great concernment. The city wholly mercantile, as
standing near the famous Severn, commodiously for
Ireland, and the Western world. Here, I first saw the
manner of refining sugar and casting it into loaves, where
we had a collection of eggs fried in the sugar furnace,?
together with excellent Spanish wine. But, what appeared
most stupendous to me, was the rock of St. Vincent, a little
distance from the town, the precipice whereof is equal to
anything of that nature I have seen in the most confragose
cataracts of the Alps, the river gliding between them at an

1 Now the famous inn there.

® A kind of entertainment like the more modern one of eating
beef-steaks dressed on the stoker’s shovel, and drinking porter, at the
famous brewhouses in London.

1654] John Evelyn 2g1

extraordinary depth. Here, we went searching for dia-
monds, and to the Hot Wells, at its foot. There is also
on the side of this horrid Alp a very romantic seat: and
so we returned to Bath in the evening, and July 1 to
Cadenham.

4th July. Ona letter from my wife’s uncle, Mr. Prety-
man, | waited back on her to London, passing by Hunger-
ford, a town famous for its trouts, and the next day arrived
at Deptford, which was 60 miles, in the extremity of heat.

6th. I went early to London, and the following day met
my wife and company at Oxford, the eve of the Act.

8th. Was spent in hearing several exercises in the
schools; and, after dinner, the Proctor opened the Act at
St. Mary’s (according to custom), and the Prevaricators,
their drollery. Then, the Doctors disputed. We supped at
Wadham College.

oth. Dr. French preached at St. Mary’s, on Matt. xii.
42, advising the students the search after true wisdom, not
to be had in the books of philosophers, but in the Scriptures
alone. In the afternoon, the famous Independent, Dr.
Owen, perstringeing 1 Episcopacy. He was now Crom-
well’s Vice-Chancellor. We dined with Dr. Ward, Mathe-
matical Professor (since Bishop of Sarum),? and at night
supped in Baliol College Hall, where I had once been
student and fellow-commoner, and where they made me
extraordinarily welcome.

1 From the Latin verb perstringo, to graze or brush, to glance on.

2 Seth Ward, the son of an attorney, was born in 1617, at Bunting-
ford, in Hertfordshire, and finished his education at Sidney College,
Cambridge, where he obtained a fellowship, but was expelled the
university in 1644, for refusing the covenant. Oxford, as usual,
received him; where he succeeded Greaves, the Savilian Professor of
Astronomy; and in 1654, obtained the degree of Doctor of Divinity.
He was intimately acquainted with the abstract sciences, and was
one of that limited band of scholars at whose meetings first arose
the idea of the Royal Society, in which Evelyn took so deep an interest
and so active a part. He was elected Master of Trinity in 1659,
which, however, he resigned, when presented with the Rectory of St.
Lawrence Jewry, London. In succession he also became Precentor of
Exeter, Dean, and Bishop, from which see, in 1667, he was translated
to Salisbury, and was named Chancellor of the Order of the Garter.
Dr. Ward wrote numerous works illustrative of mathematical science
and of astronomy, and opposed Hobbes in a Latin Treatise: he also
published several sermons, and a Philosophical Essay on the Being
and Attributes of God. He died in 1689, having for some years
outlived his faculties.

J 220 ¥*y

292 Diary of [Oxford

1oth. On Monday, I went again to the schools, to hear
the several faculties, and in the afternoon tarried out the
whole Act in St. Mary’s, the long speeches of the Proctors,
the Vice-Chancellor, the several Professors, creation of
Doctors, by the cap, ring, kiss, &c., those ancient cere-
monies and institution being as yet not wholly abolished.
Dr. Kendal, now Inceptor amongst others, performing his
Act incomparably well, concluded it with an excellent
oration, abating his Presbyterian animosities, which he
withheld, not even against that learned and pious divine,
Dr. Hammond. The Act was closed with the speech of
the Vice-Chancellor, there being but four in theology, and
three in medicine, which was thought a considerable matter,
the times considered. I dined at one Monsieur Fiats, a
student of Exeter College, and supped at a magnificent
entertainment of, Wadham Hall, invited by my dear and
excellent friend, Dr. Wilkins,! then Warden (after, Bishop
of Chester).

1 John Wilkins was the son of an Oxford goldsmith, and was born
in 1614, at Paisley, near Daventry, in the house of his grandfather,
John Dodd, a celebrated nonconformist divine, and author of a work
on the Commandments, which obtained him the name of the Deca-
logist. Young Wilkins was educated at Oxford, for the ministry,
matriculated at New Inn Hall, in 1627, and afterwards graduated
at Magdalen Hall. Aubrey says he was as eager for experimental
philosophy at Oxford as Lord Bacon had been at Cambridge. As a
divine he was early in repute, and received the domestic chaplaincy
of the Count Palatine of the Rhine; but this did not prevent him
from subsequently adopting the covenant. He then took part with
the republic, and by his discourses entirely gained the confidence of its
leaders ; through whose influence he was elected head of Wadham Col-
lege, and, obtaining a privilege to dispense with the condition of celibacy
attached to that particular mastership, married in 1656, Robinia, the
sister of Oliver Cromwell. Even his popular sympathies, however,
failed to withdraw him from the cultivation of science; for at the
most troubled period preceding the execution of Charles, he estab-
lished a philosophical club, held weekly at the Bull’s Head Tavern,
Cheapside, of which the principal rule was a prohibition of ‘ all
discourses of divinity, of state affairs, and of news, other than what
concerned our business of philosophy.’’ Again assisted by his wife’s
relations, in 1659, he was appointed to the headship of Trinity
College, Cambridge; but this proved the last of their good offices,
the restoration of the King ensuing in the following year. Dr.
Wilkins had meanwhile propitiated the Church party by acts of care
and kindness for the privileges of his university while he was in
power, and he had no difficulty, when he had intimated the necessary
change in his opinions, in obtaining the favour of Villiers, Duke of
Buckingham, and the means of Church advancement. He was first

1654] John Evelyn 293

11th July. Was the Latin sermon, which I could not be
at, though invited, being taken up at All Souls, where we
had music, voices, and theorbos, performed by some in-
genious scholars. After dinner, I visited that miracle of
a youth, Mr. Christopher Wren, nephew to the Bishop of
Ely. Then Mr. Barlow (since Bishop of Lincoln), biblio-
thecarius of the Bodleian Library, my most learned friend.
He showed us the rarities of that most famous place, manu-
scripts, medals, and other curiosities. Among the MSS. an
old English Bible, wherein the Eunuch mentioned to be
baptized by Philip, is called the Gelding: ‘‘ and Philip and
the Gelding went down into the water,’’ &c. The original
Acts of the Council of Basil goo years since, with the bulla,
or leaden affix, which has a silken cord passing through
every parchment; a MS. of Venerable Bede of 800 years
antiquity ; the old Ritual secundum usum Sarum, exceeding
voluminous; then, among the nicer curiosities, the Pro-
verbs of Solomon, written in French by a lady,} every

appointed preacher to the societies of Gray’s Inn; then rector of St.
Lawrence, Old Jewry; afterwards dean of Ripon; and finally, in
1668, Bishop of Chester. In the course of these duties he found leisure
to write several works, both scientific and religious; and no one
acquainted with the peculiarities of thinking in his age, will con-
sider it any grave imputation on his love for philosophy and practical
science that he should have advocated the practicability of a passage
to the moon, in a work published in 1638, under the title of “* The
Discovery of a New World, or a Discourse on the World in the
Moon,’”’ which he followed in 1640 with a treatise striving to prove
the earth a new planet. His other scientific writings were entitled
‘* Mercury, or the Secret and Swift Messenger,’’ published in 1641;
‘* Mathematical Magic, or the Wonders to be performed by Mechani-
cal Geometry,” published in 1648; and ‘‘An Essay towards a real
Character and Philosophical Language.’’ His religious works were,
‘* Ecclesiastes, or the Gift of Preaching,’’ ‘‘ A Discourse concerning
Providence,’’ an essay ‘‘ On the Principles and Duties of Natural
Religion,’’ and another ‘‘ On the Gift of Prayer.’’ Bishop Wilkins
also materially assisted in the establishment of the Royal Society (the
first germ of which may be said to have existed in the Bull’s Head
Club) ; and devoted himself to the advancement of religion and science
till his death, which took place November 19, 1672, in Chancery Lane,
at the house of his daughter, who had married a still more eminent
member of the church, Dr. (afterwards Archbishop) Tillotson.
Evelyn was strongly attached to Wilkins, notwithstanding his early
connection with the revolutionary party; and the feeling was more
than justified by the many estimable qualities of this remarkable man.

1 Mrs. Esther Inglish, married to Bartholomew Kello, rector of
Willinghall Spain, in Essex. An account of her curious penmanship
is given in Massey’s Origin and Progress of Letters.

294 Diary of [Oxford

chapter of a several character, or hand, the most exquisite
imaginable; an hieroglyphical table, or carta, folded up like
a map, I suppose it painted on asses’ hide, extremely
rare; but, what is most illustrious, there were no less than
1000 MSS., in nineteen languages, especially oriental, fur-
nishing that new part of the library built by Archbishop
Laud, from a design of Sir Kenelm Digby and the Earl of
Pembroke. In the cioset of the tower, they show some |
Indian weapons, urns, lamps, &c., but the rarest is the
whole Alcoran, written on one large sheet of calico, made
up in a priest’s vesture, or cope, after the Turkish and
Arabic character, so exquisitely written, as no printed letter
comes near it: also, a roll of magical charms, divers talis-
mans, and some medals.

Then, I led my wife into the Convocation-House, finely
wainscoted; the Divinity School, and Gothic carved roof ;
the Physic, or Anatomy School, adorned with some rarities
of natural things; but nothing extraordinary save the skin
of a jackal, a rarely-coloured jackatoo, or prodigious
large parrot, two humming birds, not much bigger than our
humble-bee, which indeed I had not seen before, that 1
remember,

12th July. We went to St. John’s, saw the library and
the two skeletons, which are finely cleansed and put to-
gether; observable is here also the store of mathematical
instruments, chiefly given by the late Archbishop Laud,
who built here a handsome quadrangle.

Thence, we went to New College, where the chapel was_
in its ancient garb, notwithstanding the scrupulosity of the
times. Thence, to Christ’s Church, in whose library was
showed us an Office of Henry VIII., the writing, mini-
atures, and gilding whereof is equal, if not surpassing,
any curiosity I had seen of that kind; it was given by
their founder, Cardinal Wolsey. The glass windows
of the cathedral (famous in my time) I found much
abused. The ample hall and column, that spreads its
Capital to sustain the roof as one goes up the stairs, is
very remarkable.

Next, we walked to Magdalen College, where we saw
the library and chapel, which was likewise in pontifical
order, the altar only I think turned tablewise, and there was
still the double organ, which abominations (as now
esteemed) were almost universally demolished; Mr. Gib-

1654] John Evelyn 295

bon, that famous musician, giving us a taste of his skill
and talents on that instrument.

Hence, to the Physic Garden, where the sensitive plant
was showed us for a great wonder. There grew canes,
olive-trees, rhubarb, but no extraordinary curiosities, be-
sides very good fruit, which, when the ladies had tasted,
we returned in our coach to our lodgings.

13th. We all dined at that most obliging and universally-
curious Dr. Wilkins’s, at Wadham College. He was the
first who showed me the transparent apiaries, which he
had built like castles and palaces, and so ordered them
one upon another, as to take the honey without destroying
the bees. These were adorned with a variety of dials, little
statues, vanes, &c.; and, he was so abundantly civil, find-
ing me pleased with them, to present me with one of the
hives which he had empty, and which I afterwards had in
my garden at Sayes Court, where it continued many years,
and which his Majesty came on purpose to see and con-
template with much satisfaction. He had also contrived a
hollow statue, which gave a voice and uttered words by a
long concealed pipe that went to its mouth,! whilst one
speaks through it at a good distance. He had, above in his
lodgings and gallery, variety of shadows, dials, perspect-
ives, and many other artificial, mathematical, and magical
curiosities, a way-wiser, a thermometer, a monstrous
magnet, conic, and other sections, a balance on a demi-
circle; most of them of his own, and that prodigious young
scholar Mr. Christopher Wren; who presented me with a
piece of white marble, which he had stained with a lively
red, very deep, as beautiful as if it had been natural.

Thus satisfied with the civilities of Oxford, we left it,
dining at Farringdon, a town which had been newly fired
during the wars; and, passing near the seat of Sir Walter
Pye, we came to Cadenham.

16th. We went to another uncle and relative of my
wife’s, Sir John Glanville, a famous lawyer, formerly
Speaker of the House of Commons; his seat is at Broad
Hinton, where he now lived but in the Gatehouse, his very
fair dwelling-house having been burnt by his own hands,
to prevent the rebels making a garrison of it. Here, my
cousin William Glanville’s eldest son shewed me such a

1 Such were the speaking figures long ago exhibited in Spring
Gardens, and in Leicester Fields.

296 Diary of [Salisbury

lock for a door, that for its filing, and rare contrivances was
a masterpiece, yet made by a country blacksmith.! But,
we have seen watches made by another with as much curi-
osity as the best of that profession can brag of; and, not
many years after, there was nothing more frequent than ail
sorts of iron-work more exquisitely wrought and polished
than in any part of Europe, so as a door-lock of a toler-
able price was esteemed a curiosity even among foreign
princes.

Went back to Cadenham, and, on the roth, to Sir
Edward Baynton’s at Spie Park, a place capable of being
made a noble seat; but the humorous old knight has built
a long single house of two low stories on the precipice of
an incomparable prospect, and landing on a bowling-green
in the park. The house is like a long barn, and has not
a window on the prospect side. After dinner, they went to
bowls, and, in the meantime, our coachmen were made so
exceeding drunk, that in returning home we escaped great
dangers. This, it seems, was by order of the Knight, that
all gentlemen’s servants be so treated; but the custom is
barbarous, and much unbecoming a Knight, still less a
Christian.

2oth July. We proceeded to Salisbury; the Cathedral I
take to be the completest piece of Gothic work in Europe,
taken in all its uniformity. The pillars, reputed to be cast,
are of stone manifestly cut out of the quarry ; most observ-
able are those in the chapter-house. There are some re-
markable monuments, particularly the ancient Bishops,
founders of the Church, Knights Templars, the Marquis of
Hertford’s, the cloisters of the palace and garden, and the
great mural dial.

In the afternoon we went to Wilton, a fine house of the
Earl of Pembroke, in which the most observable are the
dining-room in the modern-built part towards the garden,
richly gilded and painted with story, by De Crete; also,
some other apartments, as that of hunting landscapes, by
Pierce :2 some magnificent chimney-pieces, after the best

1 A similar lock is still shown at Hampden, affixed to the door of
the room (one of the few still remaining of the older building) which
the patriot is said to have occupied and slept in.

2 Edward Pierce, a celebrated painter of history, landscape, and
achitecture, who worked under Vandyke. He died a few years after
the Restoration. One of his sons, John, was also a painter.

1654] John Evelyn 297

French manner; a pair of artificial winding-stairs, of stone,
and divers rare pictures. The garden, heretofore esteemed
the noblest in England, is a large handsome plain, with a
grotto and water-works, which might be made much more
pleasant, were the river that passes through cleansed and
raised ; for all is effected by a mere force. It has a flower
garden, not inelegant. But, after all, that which renders
the seat delightful is, its being so near the downs and noble
plains about the country contiguous to it. The stables are
well ordered and yield a graceful front, by reason of the
walks of lime-trees, with the court and fountain of the
stables adorned with the Cesars’ heads.

We returned this evening by the plain, and 14-mile race,
where out of my lord’s hare-warren we were entertained
with a long course of a hare for near two miles in sight.
Near this, is a pergola, or stand, built to view the sports:
and so we came to Salisbury, and saw the most consider-
able parts of the city. The market-place, with most of the
streets, are watered by a quick current and pure stream
running through the middle of them, but are negligently
kept, when with a small charge they might be purged and
rendered infinitely agreeable, and this made one of the
sweetest towns, but now the common buildings are despic-
able, and the streets dirty.

22nd July. We departed and dined at a farm of my Uncle
Hungerford’s, called Darnford Magna, situated in a valley
under the plain, most sweetly watered, abounding in trouts
catched by spear in the night, when they come attracted by
a light set in the stern of a boat.

After dinner, continuing our return, we passed over the
goodly plain, or rather sea of carpet, which I think for
evenness, extent, verdure, and innumerable flocks, to be
one of the most delightful prospects in nature, and reminded
me of the pleasant lives of shepherds we read of in
romances.

Now we were arrived at Stone-henge, indeed a stupend-
ous monument, appearing at a distance like a castle ; how so
many and huge pillars of stone should have been brought
together, some erect, others transverse on the tops of them,
in a circular area as rudely representing a cloister or
heathen and more natural temple, is wonderful. The stone
is so exceeding hard, that all my strength with a hammer
could not break a fragment; which hardness I impute to

298 Diary of [Gloucester

their so long exposure. To number them exactly is very
difficult, they lie in such variety of postures and confusion,
though they seemed not to exceed 100; we counted only 95.
As to their being brought thither, there being no navigable
river near, is by some admired; but for the stone, there
seems to be the same kind about 20 miles distant, some of
which appear above ground. About the same hills, are
divers mounts raised (conceived to be ancient entrench-
ments, or places of burial), after bloody fights. We now
went by the Devizes, a reasonable large town, and came
late to Cadenham.

27th July. To the hunting of a sorel deer, and had excel-
lent chase for four or five hours, but the venison little
worth.

29th. I went to Langford, to see my cousin Stephens. I
also saw Dryfield, the house heretofore of Sir John Prety-
man, grandfather to my wife, and sold by her uncle; both
the seat and house very honourable and well-built, much
after the modern fashion.

3ist. Taking leave of Cadenham, where we had been
long and nobly entertained, we went a compass into Leices-
tershire, where dwelt another relation of my wife’s; for I
indeed made these excursions to show her the most con-
siderable parts of her native country, who, from her child-
hood, had lived altogether in France, as well as for my
own curiosity and information.

About two miles before coming to Gloucester, we have a
prospect from woody hills into a most goodly vale and
country. Gloucester is a handsome city, considerable for
the church and monuments. The minster is indeed a noble
fabric. The whispering gallery is rare, being through a
passage of twenty-five yards, in a many-angled cloister, and
was, I suppose, either to show the skill of the architect, or
some invention of a cunning priest, who, standing unseen
in a recess in the middle of the chapel, might hear whatever
was spoken at either end. This is above the choir, in which
lies buried King Stephen! under a moument of Irish oak,
not ill carved considering the age. The new library is a
noble though a private design. I was likewise pleased with
the Severn gliding so sweetly by it. The Duke’s house, the
castle works, are now almost quite dismantled; nor yet

1 King Stephen was buried at Faversham. The effigy Evelyn alludes
to is that of Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy.

1054) John Evelyn 299

without sad thoughts did I see the town, considering how
fatal the siege had been a few years before to our good
King.

1st August. We set out towards Worcester, by a way
thick planted with cider-fruit. We deviated to the Holy
Wells, trickling out of a valley through a steep declivity
towards the foot of the great Malvern Hills; they are said
to heal many infirmities, as king’s evil, leprosy, sore eyes,
&c. Ascending a great height above them to the trench
dividing England from South Wales, we had the prospect
of all Herefordshire, Radnor, Brecknock, Monmouth, Wor-
cester, Gloucester, Shropshire, Warwick, Derbyshires, and
many more. We could discern Tewkesbury, King’s-road,
towards Bristol, &c. ; so as I esteem it one of the goodliest
vistas in England.

2nd. This evening we arrived at Worcester, the Judges
of Assize and Sheriff just entering as we did. Viewing
the town the next day, we found the Cathedral much
ruined by the late wars, otherwise a noble structure. The
town is neatly paved and very clean, the goodly river
Severn running by it, and standing in a most fertile country.

3rd. We passed next through Warwick, and saw the
castle, the dwelling-house of the Lord Brook, and the fur-
niture noble. It is built on an eminent rock which gives
prospect into a most goodly green, a woody and plentifully
watered country ; the river running so delightfully under it,
that it may pass for one of the most surprising seats one
should meet with. The gardens are prettily disposed; but
might be much improved. Here they show us Sir Guy’s
great two-handed sword, staff, horse-arms, pot, and other
relics of that famous knight-errant. Warwick is a fair old
town, and hath one church full of ancient monuments.

Having viewed these, I went to visit my worthy friend,
Sir H. Puckering, at the Abbey, and though a melancholy
old seat, yet in a rich soil.

Hence, to Sir Guy’s grot, where they say he did his
penances, and died. It is a squalid den made in the rock,
crowned yet with venerable oaks and looking on a goodly
stream, sO as, were it improved as it might be, it were
capable of being made a most romantic and pleasant place.
Near this, we were showed his chapel and gigantic statue
hewn out of the solid rock, out of which there are likewise
divers other caves cut, and some very capacious.

300 Diary of [Leicester

The next place to Coventry. The Cross is remarkable for
Gothic work and rich gilding, comparable to any I had
ever seen, except that of Cheapside in London, now demo-
lished. This city has many handsome churches, a beautiful
wall, a fair free-school and library to it; the streets ful! of
great shops, clean and well-paved. At going forth the gate,
they show us the bone, or rib, of a wild boar, said to have
been killed by Sir Guy, but which I take to be the chine of |
a whale.

4th August. Hence, riding through a considerable part
of Leicestershire, an open, rich, but unpleasant country,
we came late in the evening to Horninghold, a seat of my
wife’s uncle.

7th. Went to Uppingham, the shire-town of Rutland, |
pretty and well-built of stone, which is a rarity in that part
of England, where most of the rural parishes are but of
mud, and the people living as wretchedly as in the most
impoverished parts of France, which they much resemble,
being idle and sluttish. The country (especially Leicester-
shire) much in common; the gentry free drinkers.

gth. To the old and ragged city of Leicester, large and
pleasantly seated, but despicably built, the chimney-flues
like so many smiths’ forges ; however, famous for the tomb
of the tyrant, Richard the Third, which is now converted to
a cistern, at which, (I think) cattle drink. Also, here in one
of the churches lies buried the magnificent Cardinal
Wolsey. John of Gaunt has here also built a large but
poor Hospital, near which a wretch has made him a house
out of the ruins of a stately church. Saw the ruins of an
old Roman Temple, thought to be of Janus. Entertained
at a very fine collection of fruits, such as I did not expect to
meet with so far North, especially very good melons. We
returned to my uncle’s.

14th. I took a journey into the Northern parts, riding
through Oakham, a pretty town in Rutlandshire, famous
for the tenure of the Barons (Ferrers), who hold it by taking
off a shoe from every nobleman’s horse that passes with his
lord through the street, unless redeemed with a certain piece
of money. In token of this, are several gilded shoes nailed
up on the castle-gate,? which seems to have been large

1 Doubtless Mr. Hungerford (ante, p. 290). Sir Edward Hunger-

ford, K.B., presented to the vicarage of Horninghold, in 1676.
* A shoe was paid for so late as the year 1788, by the Duke of York.

2654] John Evelyn 301

and fair. Hence, we went by Brook, a very sweet seat and
park of the old Lady Camden’s. Next, by Burleigh House,
belonging to the Duke of Buckingham,! and worthily
reckoned among the noblest seats in England, situate on
the brow of a hill, built 4 la moderne near a park walled
in, and a fine wood at the descent.

Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seat belonging
to Mr. Heath, son to the late Lord Chief Justice of that
name. Here, after dinner, parting with the company that
conducted us thus far, I passed that evening by Belvoir
Castle, built on a round mount at the point of a long ridge
of hills, which affords a stately prospect, and is famous for
its strenuous resistance in the late civil war.

Went by Newark-on-Trent, a brave town and garrison.
Next, by Wharton House, belonging to the Lord Chaworth,
a handsome seat: then, by Home, a noble place belonging
to the Marquis of Dorchester, and passed the famous river
Trent, which divides the South from the North of England;
and so lay that night at Nottingham.

This whole town and county seems to be but one entire
rock, as it were, an exceeding pleasant shire, full of gentry.
Here, I observed divers to live in the rocks and caves,
much after the manner as about Tours, in France.2 The
church is well built on an eminence; there is a fair house
of the Lord Clare’s, another of Pierrepont’s; an ample
market-place; large streets, full of crosses; the relics of an
ancient castle, hollowed beneath which are many caverns,
especially that of the Scots’ King, and his work whilst there.

This place is remarkble for being the place where his
Majesty first erected his standard at the beginning of our
late unhappy differences. The prospects from this city to-
wards the river and meadows are most delightful.

15th August. We passed next through Sherwood Forest,
accounted the most extensive in England. Then, Paple-
wick, an incomparable vista with the pretty castle near it.
Thence, we saw Newstead Abbey,? belonging to the Lord

1 Called Burleigh-on-the-Hill, to distinguish it from the Earl of
Exeter’s, near Stamford. The Duke of Buckingham sold it to the
family of Finch, Earls of Winchelsea and Nottingham.

2See ante, p. 72.

8 An ancient house, which has passed from the old family it then
and since belonged to, but not til! it had derived, from the last

Byron who dwelt in it, associations that have given it an undying
interest.

302 Diary of [York

Byron, situated much like Fontainebleau in France, capable
of being made a noble seat, accommodated as it is with
brave woods and streams; it has yet remaining the front of
a glorious abbey church. Next, by Mansfield town; then
Welbeck, the house of the Marquis of Newcastle, seated in |
a bottom in a park, and environed with woods, a noble yet
melancholy seat. The palace is a handsome and stately
building. Next to Worksop Abbey, almost demolished ; the
church has a double flat tower entire, and a pretty gate.
The manor belongs to the Earl of Arundel, and has to it a
fair house at the foot of a hill in a park that affords a
delicate prospect. Tickel, a town and castle, has a very
noble prospect. All these in Nottinghamshire.

16th August. We arrived at Doncaster, where we lay
this night; it is a large fair town, famous for great wax-
lights, and good stockings.

17th. Passed through Pontefract; the castle, famous
for many sieges both of late and ancient times, and the
death of that unhappy King murdered in it (Richard 11.),
was now demolishing by the Rebels; it stands on a mount,
and makes a goodly show at a distance. The Queen has a
house here, and there are many fair seats near it, especially
Mr. Pierrepont’s, built at the foot of a hill out of the castle
ruins. We all alighted in the highway to drink at a crystal
spring which they call Robin Hood’s Well; near it, is a
stone chair, and an iron ladle to drink out of, chained to
the seat. We rode to Tadcaster, at the side of which we
have prospect of the Archbishop’s Palace (which is a noble
seat), and in sight of divers other gentlemen’s fair houses.
This tract is a goodly, fertile, well-watered and wooded
country, abounding with pasture and plenty of provisions.

To York, the second city of England, fairly walled, of a
circular form, watered by the brave river Ouse, bearing
vessels of considerable burthen on it; over it is a stone
bridge emulating that of London, and built on; the middle
arch is larger than any I have seen in England, with a
wharf of hewn stone, which makes the river appear very
neat. But most remarkable and worthy seeing is St.
Peter’s Cathedral, which of all the great churches in Eng-
land had been best preserved! from the fury of the sacri-
legious, by composition with the Rebels when they took the
city, during the many incursions of Scotch and others. It

1 To Fairfax belongs this praise.

1654] John Evelyn 303

is a most entire magnificent piece of Gothic architecture.
The screen before the choir is of stone carved with flowers,
running work, and statues of the old kings. Many of the
monuments are very ancient. Here, as a great rarity in
these days and at this time, they showed me a Bible and
Common Prayer-Book covered with crimson velvet, and
richly embossed with silver gilt; also a service for the altar
of gilt wrought plate, flagons, basin, ewer, chalices, patins,
&c., with a gorgeous covering for the altar and pulpit, care-
fully preserved in the vestry, in the hollow wall whereof
rises a plentiful spring of excellent water. I got up to the
tower, whence we had a prospect towards Durham, and
could see Ripon, part of Lancashire, the famous and fatal
Marston Moor, the Spas of Knaresborough, and all the
environs of that admirable country. Sir Ingoldsby has
here a large house, gardens, and tennis-court; also the
King’s house and church near the castle, which was
modernly fortified with a palisade and bastions. The streets
are narrow and ill-paved, the shops like London.

18th August. We went to Beverley, a large town with
two stately churches, St. John’s and St. Mary’s, not much
inferior to the best of our Cathedrals. Here a very old
woman showed us the monuments, and, being above 100
years of age, spake the language of Queen Mary’s days, in
whose time she was born; she was widow of a sexton who
had belonged to the church a hundred years.

Hence, we passed through a fenny but rich country to
Hull, situate like Calais, modernly and strongly fortified
with three block-houses of brick and earth. It has a good
market-place and harbour for ships. Famous also (or rather
infamous) is this town for Hotham’s refusing entrance to
his Majesty. The water-house is worth seeing. And here
ends the south of Yorkshire.

toth. We pass the Humber, an arm of the sea of about
two leagues breadth. The weather was bad, but we crossed
it in a good barge to Barton, the first town in that part of
Lincolnshire. All marsh ground till we came to Brigg,
famous for the plantations of licorice, and then had brave
pleasant riding to Lincoln, much resembling Salisbury
Plain. Lincoln is an old confused town, very long, uneven,
steep, and ragged; formerly full of good houses, especi-
ally churches and abbeys. The Minster almost comparable
to that of York itself, abounding with marble pillars, and

304 Diary of [Lincoln

having a fair front (herein was interred Queen Eleanora,
the loyal and loving wife who sucked the poison out of |
her husband’s wound); the abbot founder, with rare carving
in the stone; the great bell, or Tom, as they call it. I went
up the steeple, from whence is a goodly prospect all over
the country. The soldiers had lately knocked off most of
the brasses from the grave-stones, so as few inscriptions
were left; they told us that these men went in with axes
and hammers, and shut themselves in, till they had rent and
torn off some barge-loads of metal, not sparing even the
monuments of the dead; so hellish an avarice possessed
them : besides which, they exceedingly ruined the city.

Here, I saw a tall woman six feet two inches high,
comely, middle-aged, and well-proportioned, who kept a
very neat and clean ale-house, and got most by people’s
coming to see her on account of her height.

2oth August. From hence we had a most pleasant ride
over a large heath open like Salisbury Plain, to Grantham,
a pretty town, so well situated on the side of a bottom
which is large and at a distance environed with ascending
grounds, that for pleasure I consider it comparable to most
inland places of England; famous is the steeple for the
exceeding height of the shaft, which is of stone.

About eighteen miles South, we pass by a noble seat, and
see Boston at a distance. Here, we came to a parish of
which the parson hath tithe ale.

Thence through Rutland, we brought night to Horning-
hold, from whence I set out on this excursion.

22nd. I went a setting and hawking, where we had
tolerable sport.

25th. To see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord _
Hatton’s, in Northamptonshire, built 4 la moderne; the
garden and stables agreeable, but the avenue ungraceful,
and the seat naked: returned that evening.

27th. Mr. Allington preached an excellent discourse
from Romans vi. 19. This was he who published those
bold sermons of the members warring against the mind, or
the Jews crucifying Christ, applied to the wicked regicides ;
for which he was ruined. We had no sermon in the after-
noon.

zoth. Taking leave of my friends, who had now
feasted me more than a month, I, with my wife, &c., set
our faces towards home, and got this evening to Peter-

654) John Evelyn 305

orough, passing by a stately palace (Thorpe) of St. John’s
one deep in the blood of our good king), built out of the
uins of the Bishop’s palace and cloister. The church is
xceeding fair, full of monuments of great antiquity.
Here lies Queen Catherine, the unhappy wife of Henry
VIII., and the no less unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots.
On the steeple, we viewed the fens of Lincolnshire, now
much inclosed and drained with infinite expense, and by
many sluices, cuts, mounds, and ingenious mills, and the
like inventions ; at which the city and country about it con-
sisting of a poor and very lazy sort of people, were much
displeased.

Peterborough is a handsome town, and hath another
well-built church.

31st. Through part of Huntingdonshire, we passed that
town, fair and ancient, a river running by it. The country
about it so abounds in wheat that, when any King of Eng-
land passes through it, they have a custom to meet him
with a hundred ploughs.

This evening, to Cambridge; and went first to St. John’s
College, well built of brick, and library, which I think is
the fairest of that University. One Mr. Benlowes! has
given it all the ornaments of pietra commessa,? whereof a
table and one piece of perspective is very fine; other trifles
there also be of no great value, besides a vast old song-
book, or Service, and some fair manuscripts. There hangs
in the library the picture of John Williams, Archbishop of
York, sometime Lord Keeper, my kinsman, and their great
benefactor.

Trinity College is said by some to be the fairest quad-
rangle of any university in Europe; but in truth is far
inferior to that of Christ Church, in Oxford; the hall is
ample and of stone, the fountain in the quadrangle is
graceful, the chapel and library fair. There they showed us
the prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, but the
passage and emblem which they would apply to our late
King, is manifestly relating to the Swedish; in truth, it
seems to be a mere fantastic rhapsody, however the title

1 Edward Benlowes, a writer of verses esteemed in his time, born
of a good family in Essex, and inheritor of a good estate, which he
wasted by improvident liberality, and continual buying of curiosities,
as Wood says. See the Fasti, 876.

3 Marble, inlaid of various colours, representing flowers, birds, &c.

306 Diary of [Cambridge

may bespeak strange revelations. There is an office in
manuscript with fine miniatures, and some other antiquities,
given by the Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry
VIII., and the before-mentioned Archbishop Williams, when
Bishop of Lincoln. The library is pretty well stored. The
Greek Professor had me into another large quadrangle
cloistered and well-built, and gave us a handsome collation
in his own chamber.

Thence to Caius, and afterwards to King’s College,
where | found the chapel altogether answered expectation,
especially the roof all of stone, which for the flatness of its
laying and carving may, | conceive, vie with any in Christ-
endom. The contignation of the roof (which I went upon),
weight, and artificial joining of the stones is admirable.
The lights are also very fair. In one aisle lies the famous
Dr. Collins, so celebrated for his fluency in the Latin
tongue. From this roof we could descry Ely, and the
encampment of Sturbridge fair now beginning to set up
their tents and booths; also Royston, Newmarket, &c.,
houses belonging to the King. The library is too narrow.

Clare-Hall is of a new and noble design, but not finished.

Peter-House, formerly under the government of my
worthy friend, Dr. Joseph Cosin, Dean of Peterborough ;!
a pretty neat college, having a delicate chapel. Next to
Sidney, a fine college.

Catherine-Hall, though a mean structure, is yet famous
for the learned Bishop Andrews, once Master. Emanuel
College, that zealous house, where to the hall they have a
parlour for the Fellows. The chapel is reformed, ab origine,
built north and south, and meanly erected, as is the library.

Jesus-College, one of the best built, but in a melanchol
situation. Next to Christ-College, a very noble erection,
especially the modern part, built without the quadrangl
towards the gardens, of exact architecture.

The Schools are very despicable, and Public Library bu
mean, though somewhat improved by the wainscoting and
books lately added by the Bishop Bancroft’s library an
MSS. They showed us little of antiquity, only Kin
James’s Works, being his own gift, and kept very rever
ently.

The market-place is very ample, and remarkable for ol

1 Ejected from all his preferments, in 1640 or 1641. Afterwards
Bishop of Durham. See ‘‘ Correspondence,”’ iii. 58.

1654] John Evelyn 307

Hobson the pleasant carrier’s beneficence of a fountain.}
But the whole town is situate in a low dirty unpleasant
place, the streets ill-paved, the air thick and infected by
the fens, nor are its churches, (of which St. Mary’s is the
best) anything considerable in compare to Oxford. 2

From Cambridge, we went to Audley-End, and spent
some time in seeing that goodly place built by Howard,
Earl of Suffolk, once Lord Treasurer. It is a mixed fabric,
betwixt antique and modern, but observable for its being
completely finished, and without comparison is one of the
stateliest palaces in the kingdom. It consists of two
courts, the first very large, winged with cloisters. The
front had a double entrance; the hall is fair, but somewhat
too small for so august a pile. The kitchen is very large, as
are the cellars arched with stone, very neat and well dis-
posed; these offices are joined by a wing out of the way
very handsomely. The gallery is the most cheerful, and |
think one of the best in England; a fair dining-room, and
the rest of the lodgings answerable, with a pretty chapel.
The gardens are not in order, though well inclosed. It
has also a bowling-alley, a noble well-walled, wooded, and
watered park, full of fine collines and ponds: the river
glides before the palace, to which is an avenue of lime-trees,
but all this is much diminished by its being placed in an
obscure bottom. For the rest, it is a perfectly uniform
structure, and shows without like a diadem, by the decora-
tions of the cupolas and other ornaments on the pavilions ;
instead of rails and balusters, there is a border of capital
letters, as was lately also on Suffolk-House, near Charing-
Cross, built by the same Lord Treasurer.3

This house stands in the parish of Saffron Walden,
famous for the abundance of saffron there cultivated, and
esteemed the best of any foreign country.

3rd October. Having dined here, we passed through
Bishop Stortford, a pretty watered town, and so by London,
late home to Sayes Court, after a journey of 700 miles,
but for the variety an agreeable refreshment after my
turmoil and building.

1 A conduit it should rather be called.

2 The reader must remember that an Oxford man is speaking.

3 Suffolk House, afterwards Northumberland House. At the funeral
of Anne of Denmark, a young man was killed by the fall of the letter
S from the border of capital letters here mentioned by Evelyn.

308 Diar y of [London

10th. To my brother at Wotton, who had been sick.

14th. I went to visit my noble friend, Mr. Hyldiard,
where I met that learned gentleman, my Lord Aungier,}
and Dr. Stokes, one of his Majesty’s Chaplains.

15th. To Betchworth Castle, to Sir Ambrose Browne,
and other gentlemen of my sweet and native country.

24th. The good old parson, Higham, preached at Wotton
Church : a plain preacher, but innocent and honest man.?

23rd November. I went to London, to visit my cousin
Fanshawe, and this day I saw one of the rarest collections
of agates, onyxes, and intaglios, that I had ever seen either
at home or abroad, collected by a conceited old hat-maker
in Blackfriars, especially one agate vase, heretofore the
great Earl of Leicester’s.

28th. Came Lady Langham, a kinswoman of mine, to
visit us; also one Captain Cooke, esteemed the best singer,
after the Italian manner, of any in England; he entertained
us with his voice and theorbo.

31st. My birth-day, being the 34th year of my age:
blessing God for His providence, I went to London to visit
my brother.

3rd December. Advent Sunday. There being no
Office at the church but extemporary prayers after the
Presbyterian way, for now all forms were prohibited, and
most of the preachers were usurpers, | seldom went to
church upon solemn feasts; but, either went to London,
where some of the orthodox sequestered Divines did pri-
vately use the Common Prayer, administer sacraments,
&c., or else I procured one to officiate in my house; where-
fore, on the roth, Dr. Richard Owen, the sequestered
minister of Eltham, preached to my family in my library, |
and gave us the holy Communion.

25th. Christmas-day. No public offices in churches,
but penalties on observers, so I was constrained to cele-
brate it at home.

1654-5. 1st January. Having with my family per-
formed the public offices of the day, and begged a blessing
on the year I was now entering, I went to keep the rest of
Christmas at my brother’s, R. Evelyn, at Woodcot.

1 Gerald, eldest son of Sir Francis Aungier, Master of the Rolls
in 1609, and created Baron Aungier in the Irish peerage in 1621.
He died in 1655, and was succeeded by his nephew, Francis, after-

wards created Earl of Longford. Evelyn more than once celebrates
his learning. 1 See ante, p. 286.

1655) John Evelyn 309

19th. My wife was brought to bed of another son, being
my third, but second living. Christened! on the 26th by
the name of John.

28th. A stranger preached from Colossians iii. 2, incit-
ing our affections to the obtaining heavenly things. I
understood afterwards that this man had been both Chap-
jain and Lieutenant to Admiral Penn, using both swords;
whether ordained or not I cannot say; into such times were
we fallen!

24th February. I was showed a table-clock whose
balance was only a crystal ball, sliding on parallel wires,
without being at all fixed, but rolling from stage to stage
till falling on a spring concealed from sight, it was thrown
up to the utmost channel again, made with an imperceptible
declivity, in this continual vicissitude of motion prettily
entertaining the eye every half minute, and the next half
giving progress to the hand that showed the hour, and
giving notice by a small bell, so as in 120 half minutes, or
periods of the bullet’s falling on the ejaculatory spring, the
clock-part struck. This very extraordinary piece (richly
adorned) had been presented by some German Prince to our
late King, and was now in possession of the Usurper;
valued at 2ocl,

2nd March. Mr. Simpson, the King’s jeweller, showed
me a most rich agate cup, of an escalop-shape, and having
a figure of Cleopatra at the scroll, her body, hair, mantle,
and veil, of the several natural colours. It was _ sup-
ported by a half Mark Antony, the colours rarely natural,
and the work truly antique, but I conceived they were
of several pieces; had they been all of one stone, it were
invaluable.

18th. Went to London, on purpose to hear that
excellent preacher, Dr. Jeremy Taylor, on Matt. xiv. 17,
showing what were the conditions of obtaining eternal life:
also, concerning abatements for unavoidable infirmities,
how cast on the accounts of the cross. On the 31st, I made
a visit to Dr. Jeremy Taylor, to confer with him about
some spiritual matters, using him thenceforward as my
ghostly father. I beseech God Almighty to make me ever
mindful of, and thankful for, His heavenly assistances !

2nd April. This was the first week, that, my uncle
Pretyman being parted with his family from me, I began

1 At Deptford. See Lysons, iv. 376.

310 Diary of [London

housekeeping, till now sojourning with him in my own
house.

gth. I went to see the great ship newly built by the
Usurper, Oliver, carrying ninety-six brass-guns, and 1000
tons burthen. In the prow was Oliver on horseback,
trampling six nations under foot, a Scot, Irishman, Dutch-
man, Frenchman, Spaniard, and English, as was easily
made out by their several habits. A Fame held a laurel |
over his insulting head; the word, God with us.

15th. I went to London with my family, to celebrate
the feast of Easter. Dr. Wild preached at St. Gregory’s; |
the ruling Powers conniving at the use of the Liturgy, |
&c., in this church alone. In the afternoon, Mr. Pierson
(since Bishop of Chester) preached at Eastcheap, but was
disturbed by an alarm of fire, which about this time was
very frequent in the City.

29th May. I sold Preston to Colonel Morley.

17th June. There was a collection for the persecuted
churches and Christians in Savoy, remnants of the ancient
Albigenses.

3rd July. 1 was showed a pretty Terella, described with
all the circles, and showing all the magnetic deviations.

14th. Came Mr. Pratt, my old acquaintance at Rome,
also Sir Edward Hales, Sir Joseph Tufton, with Mr.
Seymour.

1st August. I went to Dorking, to see Mr. Charles
Howard’s amphitheatre, garden, or solitary recess,! being
fifteen acres environed by a hill. He showed us divers
rare plants, caves, and an elaboratory.

1oth. To Albury, to visit Mr. Howard, who had
begun to build, and alter the gardens much. He showed
me many rare pictures, particularly the Moor on horse- ©
back ; Erasmus, as big as the life, by Holbein; a Madonna,
in miniature, by Oliver; but, above all, the Skull, carved
in wood, by Albert Durer, for which his father was offered
1col.; also Albert’s head, by himself, with divers rare
agates, intaglios, and other curiosities.

21st. I went to Ryegate, to visit Mrs. Cary, at my
Lady Peterborough’s, in an ancient monastery well in
repair, but the park much defaced; the house is nobly
furnished. The chimney-piece in the great chamber, carved
in wood, was of Henry VIII., and was taken from an

1 Now called Deepdene, the seat of Mr. Hope.

1655) John Evelyn 318

house of his in Bletchingley. At Ryegate, was now the
Archbishop of Armagh, the learned James Usher, whom
I went to visit. He received me exceeding kindly. In
discourse with him, he told me how great the loss of time
was to study much the Eastern languages; that, excepting
Hebrew, there was little fruit to be gathered of exceeding
labour; that, besides some mathematical books, the Arabic
itself had little considerable; that the best text was the
Hebrew Bible; that the Septuagint was finished in
seventy days, but full of errors, about which he was then
writing; that St. Hierome’s was to be valued next the
. Hebrew; also that the seventy translated the Pentateuch
only, the rest was finished by others; that the Italians
at present understood but little Greek, and Kircher was
a mountebank; that Mr. Selden’s best book was his Titles
of Honour; that the Church would be destroyed by sect-
aries, who would in all likelihood bring in Popery. In
conclusion, he recommended to me the study of philology,
above all human studies; and so, with his blessing, I took
my leave of this excellent person, and returned to Wotton.

27th. I went to Boxhill, to see those rare natural
bowers, cabinets, and shady walks in the box-copses:
hence we walked to Mickleham, and saw Sir F. Stidolph’s
seat, environed with elm-trees and walnuts innumerable,
and of which last he told us they received a considerable
revenue. Here are such goodly walks and hills shaded with
yew and box, as render the place extremely agreeable, it
seeming from these ever-greens to be summer all the
winter.

28th August. Came that renowned mathematician, Mr.
Oughtred! to see me, I sending my coach to bring him
to Wotton, being now very aged. Amongst other dis-
course, he told me he thought water to be the philosopher’s
first matter, and that he was well persuaded of the possi-
bility of their elixir; he believed the sun to be a material
fire, the moon a continent, as appears by the late Seleno-
graphers; he had strong apprehensions of some extra-
ordinary event to happen the following year, from the
calculation of coincidence with the diluvian period; and
added that it might possibly be to convert the Jews by
our Saviour’s visible appearance, or to judge the world;
and therefore, his word was, Parate in occursum; he said

1 Rector of Albury. Some capital prints of him exist, by Hollar.

312 Diary of [Wotton

original sin was not met with in the Greek Fathers, yet he |
believed the thing; this was from some discourse on Dr.
Taylor’s late book, which I had lent him.

16th September. Preached at St. Gregory’s one Darnel,
on Psalm iv. 4, concerning the benefit of self-examination ;
more learning in so short a time as an hour I have seldom
heard.

17th. Received 2600l. of Mr. Hurt, for the Manor of
Warley Magna, in Essex, purchased by me some time
since. The taxes were so intolerable that they eat up the |
rents, &c., surcharged as that county had been above all |
others during our unnatural war. :

19th. Came to see me Sir Edward Hales, Mr. Ashmole, |
Mr. Harlakenton, and Mr. Thornhill: and, the next day,
I visited Sir Henry Newton, at Charlton, where I met the —
Earl of Winchelsea and Lady Beauchamp, daughter to the
Lord Capel.

On Sunday afternoon, I frequently staid at home to cate- |
chise and instruct my family, those exercises universally
ceasing in the parish churches, so as people had no prin-
ciples, and grew very ignorant of even the common points
of Christianity; all devotion being now placed in hearing —
sermons and discourses of speculative and national things.

26th. I went to see Colonel Blount’s subterranean
warren, and drank of the wine of his vineyard, which was |
good for little.

31st. Sir Nicholas Crisp came to treat with me about
his vast design of a mole! to be made for ships in my part
of my grounds at Sayes Court.

3rd November. I had accidentally discourse with a Per-—
sian and a Greek concerning the devastation of Poland
by the late incursion of the Swedes.

27th. To London, about Sir Nicholas Crisp’s designs.

I went to see York House and gardens, belonging to the
former great Buckingham, but now much ruined through ©
neglect. 2

Thence, to visit honest and learned Mr. Hartlib,? a

1 See post, under January 16, 1662, p. 368.

3 The Duke’s names and titles are still preserved in the buildings
erected on the site: as in George Street, Villiers Street, Duke Street,
Of Alley, and Buckingham Street.

8 Samuel Hartlib. Mr. Todd, in his Life of Milton, prefixed to the
last Edition of his Poetical Works, observes that ‘‘ a Life of Hartlib

1655) John Evelyn 313

public spirited and ingenious person, who had propagated
many useful things and arts. He told me of the castles
which they set for ornament on their stoves in Germany
(he himself being a Lithuanian, as 1 remember), which are
furnished with small ordnance of silver on the battlements,
out of which they discharge excellent perfumes about the
rooms, charging them with a little powder to set them on
fire, and disperse the smoke: and, in truth, no more than
need, for their stoves are sufficiently nasty. He told me of
an ink that would give a dozen copies, moist sheets of
paper being pressed on it, and remain perfect; and a
receipt how to take off any print without the least injury
to the original. This gentleman was master of innumer-
able curiosities, and very communicative. I returned home
that evening by water, and was afflicted for it with a cold
that had almost killed me.

This day, came forth the Protector’s Edict, or Pro-
clamation, prohibiting all ministers of the Church of Eng-
land from preaching or teaching any schools, in which he
imitated the apostate, Julian; with the decimation of all
the royal party’s revenues throughout England.

14th December. I visited Mr. Hobbes, the famous philo-
sopher of Malmesbury, with whom I had been long
acquainted in France.

Now were the Jews admitted.

25th. There was no more notice taken of Christmas-
day in churches.

I went to London, where Dr. Wild preached the funeral
sermon of Preaching, this being the last day; after which,

ay)

is a desideratum in English Biography:’’ there are ample materials
for it in the publications of the time.
Samuel Hartlib is believed to have been born in Poland. He

agriculture. But he had thus exhausted his resources; and at the
Restoration, when his pension was stopped, he fell into great distress.
Many of his contemporaries regarded Hartlib with the same admira-
ion as Evelyn, and Milton addressed to him his ‘‘ Tractate on Educa-
ion.”? Subsequent mention is made of him in the notes to Evelyn's
** Correspondence.” See vol. iii. pp. 115, 131, 389, 391.

314 Diary of (Eltham

Cromwell’s proclamation was to take place, that none of
the Church of England should dare either to preach, or |
administer Sacraments, teach schools, &c., on pain of
imprisonment, or exile. So this was the mournfullest day
that in my life I had seen, or the Church of England herself,
since the Reformation; to the great rejoicing of both
Papist and Presbyter.!1 So pathetic was his discourse, that
it drew many tears from the auditory. Myself, wife, and
some of our family, received the Communion; God make
me thankful, who hath hitherto provided for us the food
of our souls as well as bodies! The Lord Jesus pity our
distressed Church, and bring back the captivity of Zion!

1655-6. 5th January. Came to visit me my Lord Lisle, |
son to the Earl of Leicester, with Sir Charles Ouseley, two
of the Usurper’s council; Mr. John Hervey, and John
Denham, the poet.

18th. Went to Eltham on foot, being a great frost, but
a mist falling as I returned, gave me such a rheum as kept
me within doors near a whole month after.

5th February. Was showed me a pretty perspective and
well represented in a triangular box, the great Church
of Haarlem in Holland, to be seen through a small hole
at one of the corners, and contrived into a handsome
cabinet. It was so rarely done, that all the artists and
painters in town flocked to see and admire it.

1oth February. I heard Dr. Wilkins? preach before
the Lord Mayor in St. Paul’s, showing how obedience was
preferable to sacrifice. He was a most obliging person,
who had married the Protector’s sister, and took great
pains to preserve the Universities from the ignorant sacri-
legious commanders and soldiers, who would fain hav
demolished all places and persons that pretended to learn-«
ing.
11th. I ventured to go to Whitehall, where of man
years I had not been, and found it very glorious and wel
furnished, as far as I could safely go, and was glad to fin
they had not much defaced that rare piece of Henry VII.
&c., done on the walls of the King’s privy chamber.

1 The text was 2 Cor. xiii. 9. That, however persecution deal
with the Ministers of God’s Word, they were still to pray for the
flock, and wish their perfection, as it was the flock to pray for an
assist their pastors, by the example of St. Paul.—EHvelyn’s Note.

2 Afterwards Bishop of Chester.

1656} John Evelyn 315

14th. I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son of Lord Berkeley,
of Berkeley Castle, where I renewed my acquaintance with
my Lord Bruce, my fellow-traveller in Italy.

19th. Went with Dr. Wilkins to see Barlow, the
famous painter of fowls, beasts, and birds.}

4th March. This night I was invited by Mr. Roger
L’Estrange? to hear the incomparable Lubicer on the
violin. His variety on a few notes and plain ground, with
that wonderful dexterity, was admirable. Though a young
man, yet so perfect and skilful, that there was nothing,
however cross and perplexed, brought to him by our
artists, which he did not play off at sight with ravishing
sweetness and improvements, to the astonishment of our
best masters. In sum, he played on the single instrument
a full concert, so as the rest flung down their instruments,
acknowledging the victory. As to my own particular, I
stand to this hour amazed that God should give so great
perfection to so young a person. There were at that time
as excellent in their profession as any were thought to be
in Europe, Paul Wheeler, Mr. Mell, and others, till this
prodigy appeared. I can no longer question the effects we

1 Francis Barlow. He occasionally painted portraits. He died in
1702.

2 Afterwards knighted ; and licenser of the press to Charles I1., and
James II., in whose Parliament he was returned for Winchester. He
was the author of several works, chiefly translations; was a fierce and
reckless advocate of high Church principles; and established a news-
paper called the Public Intelligencer, which he afterwards changed to
London Gazette, and ultimately to a paper called the Observator. In
the latter he so excelled even himself in the fury of his assaults on the
Whigs, that Evelyn, who hated intemperance in all parties, became
obliged to confess, though he thought L’Estrange ‘‘ a person of excel-
lent parts, abating some affectations,’’ that his ‘‘ pretence to serve the
Church of England ’’ involved a still stronger suspicion of ‘‘ gratify-
ing another party.’’ He possessed courage enough to oppose the in-
famous Titus Oates, when that worthy was terrifying everyone (in-
cluding the King) that held opposite opinions to himself; and when
james II., whom he had supported in his claim to a dispensing power,
assumed the mask of toleration, L’Estrange quarrelled also with him.
Pepys describes him as a man of fine conversation, most courtly,
and full of compliments; but seeking his society for the purpose of
obtaining news. He was known among the courtiers by the sobriquet
of ‘* Oliver’s fiddler,’? owing to a report, which he strenuously denied,
that he had once performed on the violin in the presence of the
Protector. Queen Mary entertained a great antipathy to him, and,
by transposing the letters of his name, gave him the appellation of
‘* Lying Strange Roger.’’ He died in 1704, aged eighty-eight.

I 220 M

31 6 Diary of {London

read of in David’s harp to charm evil spirits, or what is
said some particular notes produced in the passions of
Alexander, and that King of Denmark.

12th April. Mr. Berkeley and Mr. Robert Boyle (that
excellent person and great virtuoso),! Dr. Taylor, and Dr.
Wilkins, dined with me at Sayes Court, when | presented
Dr. Wilkins with my rare burning-glass. In the afternoon,
we all went to Colonel Blount’s, to see his new-invented
ploughs.

22nd. Came to see Mr. Henshaw and Sir William
Paston’s son, since Earl of Yarmouth.? Afterwards, I went
to see his Majesty’s house at Eltham, both palace and
chapel in miserable ruins, the noble woods and park
destroyed by Rich, the rebel.

6th May. I brought Monsieur le Franc, a young French
Sorbonnist, a proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor; they
fell to dispute on original sin, in Latin, upon a book newly
published by the Doctor, who was much satisfied with
the young man. Thence, to see Mr. Dugdale, our learned
antiquary and herald. Returning, I was showed the three
vast volumes of Father Kircher’s, Obeliscus Pamphilius
and Aigyptiacus ; in the second volume, | found the hiero-
glyphic I first communicated and sent to him at Rome by
the hands of Mr. Henshaw, whom he mentions; I designed
it from the stone itself brought me to Venice from Cairo
by Captain Powell.

7th. I visited Dr. Taylor, and prevailed on him to pro-
pose Monsieur le Franc to the Bishop that he might have

1 Fifth surviving son of Richard Boyle, styled ‘‘ the great Earl of
Cork,’’ and born at Lismore, in Ireland, January 25, 16:6-7. He
was travelling on the continent, when the death of his father, who
had bequeathed to him the Dorsetshire property and other estates,
brought him back to England in 1644, and the remainder of his life
was spent in the study of natural philosophy, wherein he made many
important discoveries, and obtained the reputation, both at home and
abroad, of being one of the greatest philosophers of his age. He
died December 30, 1691. His name occurs too frequently in the
Diary, and the letters of Evelyn (one of which contains a most
elaborate and finished picture of this ‘‘ friend of forty years’), to
justify any further allusion to him in this place.

2 Sir Robert Paston, Bart., who obtained great reputation as a
Royalist commander, and for whose services Charles II., on 15th
August, 1673, created him Baron Paston, and Viscount Yarmouth.
And in 1674 he was made Earl of Yarmouth, and died July 30 of the

same year. He was reputed a good scholar.
3 See ante, p. 210.

1656) John Evelyn 317

Orders, I having sometime before brought him to a full
consent to the Church of Engiand, her doctrine and dis-
cipline, in which he had till of late made some difficulty ;
so he was this day ordained both deacon and priest by the
Bishop of Meath. I paid the fees to his lordship, who was
very poor and in great want; to that necessity were our
clergy reduced! In the afternoon, I met Alderman Robin-
son, to treat with Mr. Papillion about the marriage of my
cousin, George Tuke, with Mrs. Fontaine.

8th. I went to visit Dr. Wilkins, at Whitehall, when I
first met with Sir P. Neal, famous for his optic glasses.
Greatorix, the mathematical instrument maker, showed me
his excellent invention to quench fire.

12th. Was published my Essay on Lucretius,! with
innumerable errata by the negligence of Mr. Triplet,
who undertook the correction of the press in my absence.
Little of the Epicurean philosophy was then known
amongst us.

28th. I dined with Nieuport, the Holland Ambas-
sador, who received me with extraordinary courtesy. I
found him a judicious, crafty, and wise man. He gave me
excellent cautions as to the danger of the times, and the
circumstances our nation was in. I remember the observa-
tion he made upon the ill success of our former Par-
liaments, and their private animosities, and little care of
the public.

Came to visit me the old Marquis of Argyle (since exe-
cuted),? Lord Lothian, and some other Scotch noblemen,

i A translation into English verse of the first book only, the frontis-
piece to which was designed by Mrs. Evelyn. Prefixed to the copy in
the library at Wotton, is this note in his own handwriting: ‘‘ Never
was book so abominably misused by printer: never copy so negligently
surveyed by one who undertook to look over the proof-sheets with all
exactness and care; namely, Dr. Triplet, well known for his ability,
and who pretended to oblige me in my absence, and so readily offered
himself. This good yet I received by it, that publishing it vainly, its
ill success at the printer’s discouraged me with troubling the world
with the rest.’’ And see ‘‘ Correspondence,”’ iii. 75, 76.

2 Archibald, eighth Earl, created Marquis of Argyle, November 15,
1641. In the subsequent troubles he took his place at the head of the
Scotch Covenanters, and did so much damage to Charles I.’s cause,
that the wrong was not considered to have been expiated by his sub-
sequent proclamation of Charles II. Evelyn, who knew him well,
calls him a ‘‘ turbulent ’’ man; and at the Restoration, having been
convicted of high treason, he had his head struck off by the maiden,
at the market-cross of Edinburgh, on the 27th of May, 1661.

318 Diary of [Colchester

all strangers to me. Note, the Marquis took the turtle-
doves in the aviary for owls.

The Earl of Southampton (since Treasurer)! and Mr.
Spencer, brother to the Earl of Sunderland, came to see
my garden.

7th July. I began my journey to see some parts of the
north-east of England; but the weather was so excessive
hot and dusty, I shortened my progress.

8th. To Colchester, a fair town, but now wretchedly
demolished by the late siege, especially the suburbs, which
were all burnt, but were then repairing. The town is built
on a rising ground, having fair meadows on one side, and
a river with a strong ancient castle, said to have been
built by King Coilus, father of Helena, mother of Con-
stantine the Great, of whom I find no memory save at the
pinnacle of one of their wool-staple houses, where is a
statue of Coilus, in wood, wretchedly carved. The walls
are exceeding strong, deeply trenched, and filled with earth. ©
It has six gates, and some watch-towers, and some hand-—
some churches. But what was showed us as a kind of
miracle, at the outside of the Castle, the wall where Sir
Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle, those valiant and noble
persons who so bravely behaved themselves in the last
siege, were barbarously shot, murdered by Ireton in cold
blood, after surrendering on articles; having been dis-—
appointed of relief from the Scotch army, which had been
defeated with the King at Worcester. The place was bare
of grass for a large space, all the rest of it abounding with
herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged and factious town,
now swarming with sectaries. Their trading is in cloth
with the Dutch, and baize and says with Spain; it is the
only place in England where these stuffs are made
unsophisticated. It is also famous for oysters and eringo
root, growing hereabout, and candied for sale.

Went to Dedham, a pretty country town, having a very

1 Thomas Wriothesley, fourth Earl, a distinguished Royalist, whe
at the Restoration was created a Knight of the Garter, and appointed
Lord Treasurer. His second daughter, Rachel, was the wife of the
patriot, Lord William Russell. He married three times. By his second
wife, Frances, daughter of Francis,- Earl of Chichester, who died
in 1644, he succeeded to that title; but dying without male issue,
May 16, 1667, all his honours became extinct. Evelyn enjoyed much
of his hospitality, and characterises him as a person of extraordinary
parts, but a valetudinarian.

1556] John Evelyn 319

fair church, finely situated, the valley well watered. Here,
I met with Dr. Stokes, a young gentleman, but an excellent
mathematician. This is a clothing town, as most are in
Essex, but lies in the unwholesome hundreds.

Hence to Ipswich, doubtless one of the sweetest, most
pleasant, well-built towns in England. It has twelve fair
churches, many noble houses, especially the Lord
Devereux’s ; a brave quay, and commodious harbour, being
about seven miles from the main; an ample market-place.
Here was born the great Cardinal Wolsey, who began a
palace here, which was not finished.

I had the curiosity to visit some Quakers here in prison;
a new fanatic sect, of dangerous principles, who show no
respect to any man, magistrate, or other, and seem a
melancholy, proud sort of people, and exceedingly ignor-
ant. One of these was said to have fasted twenty days;
but another, endeavouring to do the like, perished on the
1oth, when he would have eaten, but could not.

roth July. I returned homeward, passing again through
Colchester; and, by the way, near the ancient town of
Chelmsford, saw New Hall, built in a park by Henry VII.
and VIII., and given by Queen Elizabeth to the Earl of
Sussex, who sold it to the late great Duke of Buckingham,
and since seized on by Oliver Cromwell (pretended Pro-
tector). It is a fair old house, built with brick, low, being
only of two stories, as the manner then was; the gate-house
better; the court, large and pretty; the staircase, of extra-
ordinary wideness, with a piece representing Sir Francis
Drake’s action in the year 1580, an excellent sea-piece;
the galleries are trifling; the hall is noble; the garden a
fair plot, and the whole Seat well acccommodated with
water; but, above all, I admired the fair avenue planted
with stately lime trees, in four rows, for near a mile in
length. It has three descents, which is the only fault, and
may be reformed. There is another fair walk of the same
at the mall and wilderness, with a tennis-court, and
pleasant terrace towards the park, which was well stored
with deer and ponds.

11th. Came home by Greenwich ferry, where I saw Sir
J. Winter’s project of charring sea-coal, to burn out the
sulphur, and render it sweet. He did it by burning the
coals in such earthen pots as the glass-men melt their
metal, so firing them without consuming them, using a bar

320 Diary of [Londos

of iron in each crucible, or pot, which bar has a hook at
one end, that so the coals being melted in a furnace with
other crude sea-coals under them, may be drawn out of the
pots sticking to the iron, whence they are beaten off in
great half-exhausted cinders, which being re-kindled, make
a clear pleasant chamber-fire, deprived of their sulphur and
arsenic malignity. What success it may have, time will
discover.+

3rd August. I went to London, to receive the Blessed
Sacrament, the first time the Church of England was
reduced to a chamber and conventicle; so sharp was the
persecution. The parish-churches were filled with sectaries
of all sorts, blasphemous and ignorant mechanics usurping
the pulpits everywhere. Dr. Wild? preached in a private
house in Fleet-street, where we had a great meeting of
zealous Christians, who were generally much more devout
and religious than in our greatest prosperity. In the after-
noon, I went to the French Church in the Savoy, where I
heard Monsieur d’Espagne catechise, and so returned to
my house.

2oth. Was a confused election of Parliament called by
the Usurper.

7th September. 1 went to take leave of my excellent
neighbour and friend, Sir H. Newton and lady, now going
to dwell at Warwick; and Mr. Needham, my dear and
learned friend, came to visit me.3

14th. Now was old Sir Henry Vane 4 sent to Carisbrook
Castle, in Wight, for a foolish book he published; the
pretended Protector fortifying himself exceedingly, and
sending many to prison.

1 Many years ago, Lord Dundonald revived the project, with the
proposed improvement of extracting and saving the tar. Unfortun-
ately, he did not profit by it. The coal thus charred is sold as coke,
a very useful fuel for many purposes.

2 See Note, p. 338.

3 Jasper Needham, a physician of great repute, and one of Evelyn’s
oldest friends. For a pathetic mention of his death, see the Diary,
vol. ii; ‘pi 1g0:

4 Evelyn means the younger Vane. This was ‘‘ Vane, young in
years, but in sage counsel old,’’ the nobleness and independence of
whose character, as well as his claims to the affection of posterity, are
not ill expressed in the two facts recorded by Evelyn—his imprisonment
by Cromwell, and his judicial murder by Charles the Second. The
foolish book to which Evelyn refers was an able and fearless attack
on Cromwell’s government.

1656] John Evelyn 321

2nd October. Came to visit me my cousin, Stephens,
and Mr. Pierce (since Head of Magdalen College, Oxford),
a learned minister of Brington, in Northamptonshire, and
Captain Cooke, both excellent musicians.

2nd November. There was now nothing practical
preached, or that pressed reformation of life, but high and
speculative points and strains that few understood, which
left people very ignorant, and of no steady principles, the
source of all our sects and divisions, for there was much
envy and uncharity in the world; God of his mercy amend
it! Now, indeed, that I went at all to church, whilst these
usurpers possessed the pulpits, was that I might not be
suspected for a Papist, and that, though the minister was
Presbyterianly affected, he yet was as I understood duly
ordained, and preached sound doctrine after their way, and
besides was an humble, harmless, and peaceable man.

25th December. I went to London, to receive the
Blessed Communion this holy festival at Dr. Wild’s lodg-
ings, where I rejoiced to find so full an assembly of devout
and sober Christians.

26th. I invited some of my neighbours and tenants,
according to custom, and to preserve hospitality and
charity.

28th. A stranger preached on Luke xviii. 7, 8, on which
he made a confused discourse, with a great deal of Greek
and ostentation of learning, to but little purpose.

30th. Dined with me Sir Wiliam Paston’s son, Mr
Henshaw, and Mr. Clayton.

31st. I begged God’s blessing and mercies for his
goodness to me the past year, and set my domestic affairs
in order.

1656-7, 1st January. Having prayed with my family,
and celebrated the anniversary, I spent some time in im-
ploring God’s blessing the year I was entered into.

7th. Came Mr. Matthew Wren (since secretary to the
Duke), slain in the Dutch war, eldest son to the Bishop of
Ely, now a prisoner in the Tower; a most worthy and
honoured gentleman.

roth. Came Dr. Joyliffe, that famous physician and
anatomist, first detector of the lymphatic veins; also the
old Marquis of Argyle, and another Scotch Earl.

sth February. Dined at the Holland Ambassador’s; he
told me the East India Company of Holland had constantly

322 Diary of {London

a stock of 400,000l. in India, and forty-eight men-of-war
there : he spoke of their exact and just keeping their books
and correspondence, so as no adventurer’s stock could pos-
sibly be lost, or defeated; that it was a vulgar error that
the Hollanders furnished their enemies with powder and
ammunition for their money, though engaged in a cruel
war, but that they used to merchandise indifferently, and
were permitted to seli to the friends of their enemies. He
laughed at our Committee of Trade, as composed of men
wholly ignorant of it, and how they were the ruin of com-
merce, by gratifying some for private ends.

1oth January. I went to visit the governor of Havannah,
a brave, sober, valiant Spanish gentleman, taken by Cap- |
tain Young of Deptford, when, after twenty years being |
in the Indies, and amassing great wealth, his lady and
whole family, except two sons, were burnt, destroyed, and
taken within sight of Spain, his eldest son, daughter, and |
wife, perishing with immense treasure.! One son, of about
seventeen years old, with his brother of one year old, were
the only ones saved. The young gentieman, about seven- —
teen, was a well-complexioned youth, not olive-coloured ;
he spake Latin handsomely, was extremely well-bred, and
born in the Caraccas, 1000 miles south of the equinoctial, —
near the mountains of Potosi; he had never been in Europe
before. The Governor was an ancient gentleman of great
courage, of the order of St. Jago, sore wounded in his arm,
and his ribs broken; he lost for his own share 100,000l. |
sterling, which he seemed to bear with exceeding indiffer-
ence, and nothing dejected. After some discourse, I went
with them to Arundel-House, where they dined. They were
now going back into Spain, having obtained their liberty
from Cromwell. An example of human vicissitude !

14th February. To London, where I found Mrs. Cary;
next day came Mr. Mordaunt ? (since Viscount Mordaunt),

1 Particularly noticed in Waller’s poem on a War with Spain.

3 John, second son of John, fifth Baron Mordaunt, and first Ear! of
Peterborough. He was a zealous Royalist; an offence for which he
was tried, and, as Evelyn relates in a subsequent page, acquitted by
one vote under the Commonwealth. Nevertheless, he still exerted
himslf to bring back Charles II., who, on the roth of July, 1659,
created him Baron Mordaunt of Reigate, and Viscount Mordaunt of
Avalon, and appointed him Constable of Windsor Castle, and Custos ©
Rotulorum of the County of Surrey. Many foul charges were after-
wards brought against him in connection with his command at

1657] John Evelyn 323

younger son to the Countess of Peterborough, to see his
mistress, bringing with him two of my Lord of Dover’s
daughters :! so, after dinner, they all departed.

5th March. Dr. Rand, a learned physician, dedicated
to me his version of Gassendi’s Vita Peiriskii.

25th. Dr. Taylor showed me his MS. of Cases of Con-
science, or Ductor Dubitantium, now fitted for the Press.

The Protector Oliver, now affecting kingship, is
petitioned to take the title on him by all his new-made syco-
phant lords, &c. ; but dares not, for fear of the fanatics, not
thoroughly purged out of his rebel army.

21st April. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer, of Hanmer, in
Wales, to see me. J then waited on my Lord Hatton,
with whom I dined: at my return, I stepped into Bedlam,
where I saw several poor miserable creatures in chains;
one of them was mad with making verses. I also visited
the Charter-house, formerly belonging to the Carthusians,
now an old neat fresh solitary college for decayed gentle-

en. It has a grove, bowling-green, garden, chapel, and
a hall where they eat in common. I likewise saw Christ-
church and Hospital, a very goodly Gothic building; the
hall, school, and lodgings in great order for bringing up
many hundreds of poor children of both sexes; it is an
exemplary charity. There is a large picture at one end of
the hall, representing the governors, founders, and the in-
stitution.

25th. I had a dangerous fall out of the coach in Covent
Garden, going to my brother’s, but without harm; the
Lord be praised !

1st May. Divers soldiers were quartered at my house;
but I thank God went away the next day towards Flanders.

5th. I went with my cousin, George Tuke, to see Bay-
nard, in Surrey, a house of my brother Richard’s, which he
would have hired. This is a very fair noble residence, built
in a park, and having one of the goodliest avenues of oaks
up to it that ever I saw: there is a pond 2 of 60 acres near

Windsor. See vol. ii. p. 20. With his mother and his wife, Evelyn
was extremely intimate, frequently mentioning both with enthusiasm ;
and taking an active part, as many passages of the Diary will show,
in the business affairs of the family.

1 Henry Carey, fourth Baron Hundson, created Viscount Rochford
and Earl of Dover, and who died in 1668, had three daughters—Mary,
married to Sir Thomas Wharton; Judith; and Philadelphia.

4 This pond belongs to Vachery in Cranley.

[ 220 yy

324 Diary of [London

it; the windows of the chief rooms are of very fine painted
glass. The situation is excessively dirty and melancholy.}

15th. Lawrence, President of Oliver’s Council, and some
other of his Court-Lords, came in the afternoon to see my
garden and plantations.

7th June. My fourth son was born, christened George
{after my grandfather); Dr. Jeremy Taylor officiated in
the drawing-room.

18th. At Greenwich I saw a sort of cat 2 brought from
the East Indies, shaped and snouted much like the Egyptian
racoon, in the body like a monkey, and so footed; the ears
and tail like a cat, only the tail much longer, and the skin
variously ringed with black and white; with the tail it
wound up its body like a serpent, and so got up into trees,
and witb it would wrap its whole body round. Its hair
was woolly like a lamb; it was exceedingly nimble, gentle,
and purred as does the cat.

16th July. On Dr. Jeremy Taylor’s recommendation, |
went to Eltham, to help one Moody, a young man, to that
living, by my interest with the patron.

6th August. I went to see Colonel Blount, who showed
me the application of the way-wiser 3 to a coach, exactly
measuring the miles, and showing them by an index as we
went on. It had three circles, one pointing to the number
or rods, another to the miles, by 10 to 1000, with all the
subdivisions of quarters; very pretty and useful.

1oth. Our vicar, from John xviii. 36, declaimed against
the folly of a sort of enthusiasts and desperate zealots,
called the Fifth-Monarchy-Men, pretending to set up the
kingdom of Christ with the sword. To this pass was this
age arrived when we had no King in Israel.

21st. Fell a most prodigious rain in London, and the
year was very sickly in the country.

1 It is in the lower part of the parish of Ewhurst in Surrey, adjoin-
ing to Rudgwick in Sussex, in a deep clay soil. The residence
belonged formerly to Sir Edward Bray, and afterwards to the Ear! of
Onslow, who carried the painted glass to his seat at Clandon.

2 This was probably the animal called a Mocock (maucauco), since
well known.

3 Beckmann, in his ‘‘ History of Inventions,” has written an
account of the different instruments applied to carriages to measure
the distance they pass over. He places the first introduction of the
adometer in England at about the end of the seventeenth century,

instead of about the middle, and states it to have been the invention
of an ingenious artist named Butterfield

P.

1657] John Evelyn 325

1st September, I visited Sir Edmund Bowyer, at his
melancholy seat at Camberwell. He has a very pretty grove
of oaks, and hedges of yew in his garden, and a handsome
row of tall elms before his court.

15th. Going to London with some company, we
stept in to see a famous rope-dancer, called the Turk.
I saw even to astonishment the agility with which he per-
formed. He walked barefooted, taking hold by his toes
only of a rope almost perpendicular, and without so much
as touching it with his hands; he danced blindfold on the
high rope, and with a boy of twelve years old tied to one
of his feet about twenty feet beneath him, dangling as he
danced, yet he moved as nimbly as if it ‘had been but a
feather. Lastly, he stood on his head, on the top of a very
high mast, danced on a small rope that was very slack, and
finally flew down the perpendicular, on his breast, his head
foremost, his legs and arms extended, with divers other
activities.—I saw the hairy woman,? twenty years old,
whom I had before seen when a child. She was born at
Augsburg, in Germany. Her very eye-brows were combed
upwards, and all her forehead as thick and even as grows
on any woman’s head, neatly dressed; a very long lock of
hair out of each ear; she had also a most prolix beard, and
moustachios, with long locks growing on the middle of her
nose, like an Iceland dog exactly, the colour of a bright
brown, fine as well-dressed flax. She was now married, and
told me she had one child that was not hairy, nor were any
of her parents, or relations. She was very well shaped, and
played well on the harpsichord.

17th. To see Sir Robert Needham, at Lambeth, a rela-
tion of mine; and thence to John Tradescant’s museum, in

1 Evelyn again mentions this tumbler in his Numismata, under the
name of the Funamble Turk.

2 Barbara Vanbeck. ‘Two portraits of her, one a line engraving,
the other in mezzotinto, are described in Grainger’s Biographical
Dictionary.

3 The tombstone of the family in Lambeth church-yard declares,
that ‘‘ Beneath this stone lie John Tradescant, grandsire, father, and
son.’’ They were all eminent gardeners, travellers, and collectors of
curiosities. The first two came into this country in the reign of
James I., and the second and third were employed in the Royal
Gardens by Charles I. They had a house at Lambeth, which, being
filled with rarities of every description, passed by the name of Trades-
cant’s Ark, and was much resorted to by the lovers of the curious.
It formed the foundation of the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, and

326 Diary of [London

which the chiefest rarities were, in my opinion, the ancient
Roman, Indian, and other nations’ armour, shields, and
weapons; some habits of curiously-coloured and wrought
feathers, one from the phoenix wing, as tradition goes.
Other innumerable things there were, printed in his cata-
logue by Mr. Ashmole, to whom after the death of the
widow they are bequeathed, and by him designed as a gift
to Oxford.!

19th October. I went to see divers gardens about
London: returning, I saw at Dr. Joyliffe’s two Virginian
rattle-snakes alive, exceeding a yard in length, small heads,
slender tails, but in the middle nearly the size of my leg;
when vexed, swiftly vibrating and shaking their tails, as
loud as a child’s rattle; this, by the collision of certain
gristly skins curiously jointed, yet loose, and transparent as
parchment, by which they give warning; a providentia!
caution for other creatures to avoid them. The Doctor tried
their biting on rats and mice, which they immediately
killed : but their vigour must needs be much exhausted here,
in another climate, and kept only in a barrel of bran.

22nd. To town, to visit the Holland Ambassador, with
whom I had now contracted much friendly correspondence,
useful to the intelligence I constantly gave his Majesty
abroad.

26th November. I went to London, to a court of the |
East India Company on its new union, in Merchant-
Taylors’ Hall, where was much disorder by reason of the
Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers obliged only
by an engagement, without swearing, that they stil! might
pursue their private trade; but it was carried against thein.
Wednesday was fixed on for a General Court for election
of officers, after a sermon and prayers for good success.
The Stock resolved on was 800,o000l.

27th. J took the oath at the East India House, subscrib-
ing 5ool.

2nd December. Dr. Raynolds (since Bishop of Norwich)
preached before the company at St. Andrew Under-shaft,
on Nehemiah xiii. 31, showing, by the example of Nehe-

a catalogue of its contents was printed by the youngest John Trades-
cant, in 1656, with the title of ‘‘ Museum Tradescantianum.’’ The
elder died in 1652. See post, vol. ii. p. 124.

1 Where they now are: in the Ashmolean Museum. See post,
vol. ii. p. 124.

1657] John Evelyn 327

miah, all the perfections of a trusty person in public
affairs, with many good precepts apposite to the occasion,
ending with a prayer for God’s blessing on the company
and the undertaking.

3rd December. Mr. Gunning preached on John iii. 3,
against the Anabaptists, showing the effect and necessity
of the sacrament of baptism. This sect was now wonder-
fully spread.

25th. I went to London with my wife, to celebrate
Christmas-day, Mr. Gunning preaching in Exeter chapel,
on Micah vii. 2. Sermon ended, as he was giving us
the Holy Sacrament, the chapel was surrounded with
soldiers, and all the communicants and assembly surprised
and kept prisoners by them, some in the house, others
carried away. It fell to my share to be confined to a room
in the house, where yet I was permitted to dine with the
master of it, the Countess of Dorset, Lady Hatton, and
some others of quality who invited me. In the afternoon,
came Colonel Whalley, Goffe, and others, from Whitehall,
to examine us one by one; some they committed to the
Marshal, some to prison. When I came before them,
they took my name and abode, examined me why, con-
trary to the ordinance made, that none should any longer
observe the superstitious time of the Nativity (so esteemed
by them), I durst offend, and particularly be at Common
Prayers, which they told me was but the mass in English,
and particularly pray for Charles Stuart; for which we had
no Scripture. I told them we did not pray for Charles
Stuart, but for all Christian Kings, Princes, and Gover-
nors. They replied, in so doing we prayed for the King
of Spain, too, who was their enemy and a Papist, with
other frivolous and ensnaring questions, and much threat-
ening ; and, finding no colour to detain me, they dismissed
me with much pity of my ignorance. These were men of
high flight and above ordinances, and spake spiteful
things of our Lord’s Nativity. As we went up to receive
the Sacrament, the miscreants held their muskets against
us, as if they would have shot us at the altar; but yet
suffering us to finish the office of Communion, as perhaps
not having instructions what to do, in case they found
us in that action. So I got home late the next day; blessed
be God !

1657-8: 27th january. After six fits of a quartan ague,

328 Diary of [London

with which it pleased God to visit him, died my dear son,
Richard, to our inexpressible grief and affliction, five years
and three days old only, but at that tender age a prodigy
for wit and understanding; for beauty of body, a very
angel; for endowment of mind, of incredible and rare
hopes. To give only a little taste of them, and thereby
glory to God, who ‘out of the mouths of babes and
infants does sometimes perfect his praises,’’ he had
learned all his catechism; at two years and a half old, he
could perfectly read any of the English, Latin, French, or
Gothic letters, pronouncing the three first languages
exactly. He had, before the fifth year, or in that year,
not only skill to read most written hands, but to decline
all the nouns, conjugate the verbs regular, and most of
the irregular; learned out ‘‘ Puerilis,’? got by heart
almost the entire vocabulary of Latin and French primi-
tives and words, could make congruous syntax, turn
English into Latin, and vice versd, construe and prove
what he read, and did the government and use of relatives,
verbs, substantives, ellipses, and many figures and tropes,
and made a considerable progress in Comenius’s Janua;
began himself to write legibly, and had a strong passion
for Greek. The number of verses he could recite was pro-
digious, and what he remembered of the parts of plays,
which he would also act; and, when seeing a Plautus in
one’s hand, he asked what book it was, and, being told
it was comedy, and too difficult for him, he wept for
sorrow. Strange was his apt and ingenious application of
fables and morals; for he had read Asop; he had a won-
derful disposition to mathematics, having by heart divers
propositions of Euclid that were read to him in play, and
he would make lines and demonstrate them. As to his
piety, astonishing were his applications of Scripture upon
occasion, and his sense of God; he had learned all his
Catechism early, and understood the historical part of the
Bible and New Testament to a wonder, how Christ came
to redeem mankind, and how, comprehending these neces-
saries himself, his godfathers were discharged of their
promise.

These and the like illuminations, far exceeding his age
and experience, considering the prettiness of his address
and behaviour, cannot but leave impressions in me at the
memory of him. When one told him how many days a

1658] John Evelyn 329

Quaker had fasted, he replied that was no wonder; for
Christ had said that man should not live by bread alone,
but by the Word of God. He would of himself select the
most pathetic psalms, and chapters out of Job, to read to
his maid during his sickness, telling her, when she pitied
him, that all God’s children must suffer affliction. He
declaimed against the vanities of the world, before he had
seen any. Often he would desire those who came to see
him to pray by him, and a year before he fell sick, to
kneel and pray with him alone in some corner. How
thankfully would he receive admonition! how soon be
reconciled ! how indifferent, yet continually cheerful! He
would give grave advice to his brother, John, bear with
his impertinences, and say he was but a child. If he heard
of or saw any new thing, he was unquiet till he was told
how it was made; he brought to us all such difficulties as
he found in books, to be expounded. He had learned by
heart divers sentences in Latin and Greek, which, on occa-
sion, he would produce even to wonder. He was all life,
all prettiness, far from morose, sullen, or childish in any-
thing he said or did. The last time he had been at church
(which was at Greenwich), I asked him, according to
custom, what he remembered of the sermon; two good
things, Father said he, bonum grati@ and bonum gloria,
with a just account of what the preacher said.

The day before he died, he called to me: and, in a more
serious manner than usual, told me that for all I loved
him so dearly, I should give my house, land, and all my
fine things, to his brother Jack, he should have none of
them; and, the next morning, when he found himself ill,
and that I persuaded him to keep his hands in bed, he
demanded whether he might pray to God with his hands
unjoined; and a little after, whilst in great agony, whether
he should not offend God by using his holy name so often
calling for ease. What shall I say of his frequent pathet-
ical ejaculations uttered of himself: ‘‘ Sweet Jesus, save
me, deliver me, pardon my sins, let thine angels receive
me!’’ So early knowledge, so much piety and perfection !
But thus God, having dressed up a saint fit for himself,
would not longer permit him with us, unworthy of the
future fruits of. this incomparable hopeful blossom. Such
a Child I never saw : for such a child I bless God, in whose
bosom he is! May I and mine become as this little child,

330 Diary of [London

who now follows the child Jesus that Lamb of God in a
white robe, whithersoever he goes; even so, Lord Jesus,
fiat voluntas tua! Thou gaves him to us, Thou hast taken
him from us, blessed be the name of the Lord! That I
had anything acceptable to Thee was from thy grace alone,
seeing from me he had nothing but sin, but that Thou hast
pardoned ! blessed be my God for ever, Amen.

In my opinion, he was suffocated by the women and
maids that attended him, and covered him too hot with
blankets as he lay in a cradle, near an excessive hot fire
in a close room. I suffered him to be opened, when they
found that he was what is vulgarly called liver-grown. I
caused his body to be coffined in lead, and deposited on the
3oth at eight o’clock that night in the church at Deptford,
accompanied with divers of my relations and neighbours,
among whom I distributed rings with this motto: Dominus
abstulit ; intending, God willing, to have him transported
with my own body to be interred in our dormitory in
Wotton Church, in my dear native county of Surrey, and
to lay my bones and mingle my dust with my fathers, if
God be gracious to me, and make me as fit for Him as
this blessed child was. The Lord Jesus sanctify this and
all other my afflictions, Amen.}

Here ends the joy of my life, and for which I go even ©
mourning to the grave. |
15th February. The afflicting hand of God being still
upon us, it pleased Him also to take away from us this ©
morning my youngest Son, George, now seven weeks lan-
guishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and ending in a dropsy.
God’s holy will be done! He was buried in Deptford

church, the 17th following.

25th. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor, and my brothers, with
other friends, to visit and condole with us.

7th March. To London, to hear Dr. Taylor in a private
house on Luke xiii. 23, 24. After the sermon, followed the
blessed Communion, of which I participated. In the after-
noon, Dr. Gunning, at Exeter House, expounding part of
the Creed.

This had been the severest winter that any man alive

1 In the Preface to his Translation of the ‘‘ Golden Book of St.
Chrysostom, concerning the Education of Children,’’ is given another
very interesting account of this boy, Richard Evelyn. See post, 333;
and Evelyn’s ‘‘ Miscellaneous Writings,” p. 105.

1658] John Evelyn 331

had known in England. The crows’ feet were frozen to
their prey. Islands of ice inclosed both fish and fowl]
frozen, and some persons in their boats.

15th May, was a public fast, to avert an epidemical sick-
ness, very mortal this spring.

zoth. I went to see a coach-race in Hyde-Park, and
collationed in Spring Garden.

23rd. Dr. Manton, the famous Presbyterian, preached
at Covent Garden, on Matthew vi. 10, showing what the
kingdom of God was, how pray for it, &c.

There was now a collection for persecuted and seques-
tered Ministers of the Church of England, whereof divers
are in prison. A sad day! The Church now in dens and
caves of the earth.

31st. JI went to visit my Lady Peterborough, whose
son, Mr. Mordaunt, prisoner in the Tower, was now on
his trial, and acquitted but by one voice; but that holy
martyr, Dr. Hewer, was condemned to die, without law,
jury, or justice, but by a mock Council of State, as they
called it. A dangerous, treacherous time!

2nd june. An extraordinary storm of hail and rain,
the season as cold as winter, the wind northerly near six
months.

3rd. A large whale was taken betwixt my land abutting
on the Thames and Greenwich, which drew an infinite
concourse to see it, by water, horse, coach, and on foot,
from London, and all parts. It appeared first below
Greenwich at low water, for at high water it would have
destroyed all the boats, but lying now in shallow water
encompassed with boats, after a long conflict, it was killed
with a harping iron, struck in the head, out of which
spouted blood and water by two tunnels; and, after a
horrid groan, it ran quite on shore, and died. Its length
was fifty-eight feet, height sixteen; black-skinned, like
coach-leather; very small eyes, great tail, only two small
fins, a peaked snout, and a mouth so wide, that divers
men might have stood upright in it; no teeth, but sucked
the slime only as through a grate of that bone which we
call whale-bone; the throat yet so narrow, as would not
have admitted the least of fishes. The extremes of the
cetaceous bones hang downwards from the upper jaw, and
are hairy towards the ends and bottom within side: all
of it prodigious ; but in nothing more wonderful than that

332 Diary of ([Godstone

an animal of so great a bulk should be nourished only by
slime through those grates.

8th June. That excellent preacher and holy man, Dr.
Hewer,! was martyred for having intelligence with his
Majesty, through the Lord Marquis of Ormond.

gth. I went to see the Earl of Northumberland’s 2
pictures, wherof that of the Venetian Senators 3 was one

of the best of Titian’s, and another of Andrea del Sarto, |
viz. a Madonna, Christ, St. John, and an Old Woman; a |

St. Catherine of Da Vinci, with divers portraits of Van-

dyck; a Nativity of Georgioni; the iast of our blessed |
Kings (Charles I.), and the Duke of York, by Lely, a |

Rosary by the famous Jesuits of Brussels, and several
more. This was in Suffolk House: the new front towards
the gardens is tolerable, were it not drowned by a too
massy and clumsy pair of stairs of stone, without any
neat invention.

1oth. I went to see the Medical Garden, at West-
minster, well stored with plants, under Morgan, a very
skilful botanist.

26th. To Eltham, to visit honest Mr. Owen.

3rd July. To London, and dined with Mr. Henshaw,
Mr. Dorell, and Mr. Ashmole, founder of the Oxford
repository of rarities, with divers doctors of physic and
virtuosos.

15th. Came to see my Lord Kilmurry and Lady, Sir
Robert Needham, Mr. Offley, and two daughters of my
Lord Willoughby, of Parham.

3rd August. Went to Sir John Evelyn at Godstone.

The place is excellent, but might be improved by turning —

some offices of the house, and removing the garden. The
house being a noble fabric, though not comparable to what
was first built by my uncle, who was master of all the
powder-mills.

1 Minister of St. Gregory’s, London: he was beheaded on Tower
Hill.

2 Algernon, tenth Earl. He was a Knight of the Garter; and
though conspicuously opposed to Charles I. during the Civil Wars,
promoted the Restoration. He was one of our first collectors of
pictures, and his gallery at Suffolk, since Northumberland, House,
was greatly admired, not only by Evelyn, but by all connoisseurs. He
died Oct. 13, 1668.

$8 The Cornaro family, still one of the grand ornaments of North-
amberland-House. There is a print of it engraved by Baron.

1653] John Evelyn 333

5th. We went to Squirries} to visit my Cousin Leech,
daughter to Sir John; a pretty, finely wooded, well watered
seat, the stables good, the house old, but convenient.

6th. Returned to Wotton.

1oth. 1 dined at Mr. Carew Raleigh’s, at Horsley,
son to the famous Sir Walter.

14th. We went to Durdans [at Epsom] to a challenged
match at bowls for 1ol., which we won.

18th. To Sir Ambrose Browne, at Betchworth Castle,
in that tempestuous wind which threw down my greatest
trees at Sayes Court, and did so much mischief all over
England. It continued the whole night; and, till three in
the afternoon of the next day, in the south-west, and
destroyed all our winter fruit.

3rd September. Died that arch-rebel, Oliver Cromwell,
called Protector.

16th. Was published my Translation of St. Chrysos-
tom on Education of Children, which I dedicated to both
my brothers, to comfort them on the loss of their children.

21st. My Lord Berkeley, of Berkeley Castle, invited me
to dinner.

26th. Mr. King preached at Ashted, on Proverbs xv.
24; a Quaker would have disputed with him. In the after-
noon, we heard Dr. Hacket (since Bishop of Litchfield) at
Cheam, where the family of the Lumleys lie buried.

27th. To Beddington, that ancient seat of the Carews,
a fine old hall, but a scambling house, famous for the
first orange-garden in England, being now overgrown
trees, planted in the ground, and secured in winter with a
wooden tabernacle and stoves. This seat is rarely watered,
lying low, and environed with good pastures. The pome-
granates bear here. To the house is also added a fine
park. Thence, to Carshalton, excellently watered, and
capable of being made a most delicious seat, being on
the sweet downs, and a champain about it full planted
with walnut and cherry trees, which afford a considerable
rent.

Riding over these downs, and discoursing with the shep-
herds, I found that digging about the bottom near Sir
Christopher Buckle’s,? near Banstead, divers medals have

1 At Westerham, in Kent.
2 Not far from the course of the Roman Road from Chichester
through Sussex, passing through Ockley, and Dorking church-yard.

334 Diary of [London

been found, both copper and silver, with foundations of
houses, urns, &c. Here, indeed, anciently stood a city of
the Romans.—See Antonine’s Itinerary.

29th September. I returned home, after ten weeks’
absence.

2nd October. I went to London, to receive the Holy
Sacrament.

On the 3rd, Dr. Wild preached in a private piace on
Isaiah i. 4, showing the parallel betwixt the sins of Israel |
and those of England. In the afternoon, Mr. Hall (son
to Joseph, Bishop of Norwich) on 1 Cor. vi. 2, of the
dignity of the Saints; a most excellent discourse.

4th. I dined with the Holland Ambassador, at Derby
House: returning, I diverted to see a very white raven, |
bred in Cumberland; also a porcupine, of that kind that
shoots its quills, of which see Claudian; it was headed like
a rat, the fore feet like a badger, the hind feet like a bear.

1gth. I was summoned to London, by the Commis-
sioners for new buildings; afterwards, to the Commission
of Sewers; but because there was an oath to be taken of
fidelity to the Government as now constituted without a
King, I got to be excused, and returned home.

22nd. Saw the superb funeral of the Protector. He was
carried from Somerset-House in a velvet bed of state,
drawn by six horses, housed with the same; the pall held
by his new Lords; Oliver lying in effigy, in royal robes,
and crowned with a crown, sceptre, and globe, like a king.
The pendants and guidons were carried by the officers ot
the army; the Imperial banners, achievements, &c. by the
heralds in their coats; a rich caparisoned horse, embroi-
dered all over with gold; a knight of honour, armed cap-a-
pié, and, after all, his guards, soldiers, and innumerable
mourners. In this equipage, they proceeded to West-
minster: but it was the joyfullest funeral I ever saw; for
there were none that cried but dogs, which the soldiers
hooted away with a barbarous noise, drinking and taking
tobacco in the streets as they went.

I returned not home till the 17th November.

I was summoned again to London by the Commissioners
for new foundations to be erected within such a distance
of London.

Considerable remains of a Roman building have since been found on
Walton-heath, south of this house.

1659] John Evelyn 335

6th December. Now was published my French Gar-
dener,! the first and best of the kind that introduced the
use of the Olitory garden to any purpose.

23rd. I went with my wife to keep Christmas at my
cousin, George Tuke’s, at Cressing Temple, in Essex.
Lay that night at Brentwood.

25th. Here was no public service, but what we pri-
vately used. I blessed God for His mercies the year past;
and, 1st January, begged a continuance of them. Thus,
for three Sundays, by reason of the incumbent’s death,
here was neither praying nor preaching, though there was
a chapel in the house.

1658-9. 17th January. Our old vicar preached, taking
leave of the parish in a pathetical speech, to go to a living
in the City.

24th March. I went to London, to speak to the patron,
Alderman Cuttler, about presenting a fit pastor for our
destitute parish-church.

sth April. Came the Earl of Northampton and the
famous painter, Mr. Wright,? to visit me.

1oth. One Mr. Littler, being now presented to the
living of our parish, preached on John vi. 55, a sermon
preparatory to the Holy Sacrament.

25th. A wonderful and sudden change in the face of
the public; the new Protector, Richard, slighted; several
pretenders and parties strive for the government: all
anarchy and confusion; Lord have mercy on us!

5th May. I went to visit my brother in London; and,
next day, to see a new opera,? after the Italian way, in
recitative music and scenes, much inferior to the Italian
composure and magnificence; but it was prodigious that in
a time of such public consternation such a vanity should
be kept up, or permitted. I, being engaged with company,
could not decently resist the going to see it, though my
heart smote me for it.

1 The ‘‘ Epistle Dedicatory to the French Gardener ”’ is reprinted
in the ‘* Miscellaneous Writings,’’ p. 97.

2 Mr. Michael Wright, who painted the twelve Judges in Guildhall,
after the great fire. A long account of him is given in Walpole’s
Anecdotes of Painting. See more of him, post, p. 376.

3 Probably that by Sir William Davenant, in which the cruelty of
the Spaniards in Peru was exhibited with all the adjuncts of instru-
mental and vocal music, and elaborate scenery.

336 Diary of [London

7th May. Came the Ambassador of Holland and his
Lady to visit me, and staid the whole afternoon.

12th. I returned the visit, discoursing much of the
revolutions, &c.

igth. Came to dine with me my Lord Galloway and
his son, a Scotch Lord and learned: also my brother
and his Lady, Lord Berkeley and his Lady, Mrs. Shir-
ley, and the famous singer, Mrs. Knight,! and other
friends.

23rd. I went to Rookwood,? and dined with Sir
William Hicks, where was a great feast and much com-
pany. It is a melancholy old house, environed with trees
and rooks.

26th. Came to see me my Lord George Berkeley, Sir
William Ducie, and Sir George Pott’s son of Norfolk.

29th. The nation was now in extreme confusion and
unsettled, between the Armies and the Sectaries, the poor
Church of England breathing as it were her last; so sad
a face of things had overspread us.

7th June. Yo London, to take leave of my brother, and
see the foundations now laying for a long street and
buildings in Hatton-Garden, designed for a little town,
lately an ample garden.

1st September. I communicated to Mr. Robert Boyle,
son to the Earl of Cork, my proposal for erecting a philo-
sophic and mathematic college.

15th. Came to see me Mr. Brereton,? a very learned
gentleman, son to my Lord Brereton, with his and divers
other ladies. Also, Henry Howard of Norfolk, since Duke
of Norfolk.

30th. I went to visit Sir William Ducie and Colonel

1 Afterwards one of Charles the Second’s mistresses.

2 A house in Layton, in Essex, better known by the name of Rock-
holt, or Ruckholt, built by Mr. Parvish, a former owner of the
estate; but a new house was afterwards erected near the site of the
former by the family of Hicks, of whom William was created a
baronet in 1619. Charles II. was entertained here one day when he ©
was hunting, on which occasion he knighted William, the son of the
Baronet. Morant, in his History of Essex, printed in 1768, speaks of
the new house as then for several years pulled down. For some time ©
previously, it had been a place of public entertainment in a morning,
at which visitors were regaled with tea and music.

3 William, afterwards third Lord Brereton; an accomplished and
able man, who assisted Evelyn in establishing the Royal Society.
He died in 1679.

1659] John Evelyn 337

Blount, where I met Sir Henry Blount, the famous traveller
and water-drinker.}

10th October. 1 came with my wife and family to Lon-
don; took lodgings at the Three Feathers, in Russell
Street, Covent Garden, for the winter, my son being very
unwell.

11th. Came to visit me Mr. William Coventry (since
Secretary to the Duke), son to the Lord Keeper, a wise and
witty gentleman.

The Army now turned out the Parliament. We had
now no government in the nation; all in confusion; no
magistrate either owned or pretended, but the soldiers,
and they not agreed. God Almighty have mercy on, and
settle us !

17th. 1 visited Mr. Howard, at Arundel-house, who
gave me a fair onyx set in gold, and showed me his design
of a palace there.

21st. A private fast was kept by the Church of Eng-
land Protestants in town, to beg of God the removal of His
judgments, with devout prayers for His mercy to our
calamitous Church.

7th November. Was published my bold Apology for
the King 2 in this time of danger, when it was capital to
speak or write in favour of him. It was twice printed;
so universally it took.

gth. We observed our solemn Fast for the calamity
of our Church.

1 The second son of Sir Thomas Pope Blount, of Tittenhanger, in
Hertfordfordshire, born December 15, 1602. After entering himself a
member of the Society of Gray’s Inn, he started in 1634 on a tour in
Turkey, Syria, and Egypt, which lasted four years, and on his return
published the results under the title of ‘‘ A Voyage to the Levant, with
Observations concerning the Modern Condition of the Turks,’’ which
passed through many editions. In 1638 he succeeded to the family
estate, Blount’s Hall, Staffordshire, and the next year received the
honour of knighthood. On the breaking out of the troubles, Sir
Henry Blount became a cavalier officer, and fought under the royal
banner at Edgehill. He afterwards changed sides, was employed by
Cromwell as a commissioner for reforming the criminal code, and
was engaged in trying the brother of the Portuguese ambassador for
murder. On the death of his brother in 1654, Sir Henry succeeded to
another estate at Tittenhanger, and became High Sheriff of Hertford-
shire in 1661. On the return of Charles II. he found no difficulty in
making his peace, and entertained his subsequent leisure with the
composition of comedies and other fugitive productions.

3 Reprinted in Evelyn’s ‘‘ Miscellaneous Writings,’’ pp. 169—192-

338 Diary of [London |

12th. I went to see the several drugs for the confection
of treacle, dioscordium, and other electuaries, which an
ingenious apothecary had not only prepared and ranged on
a large and very long table, but covered every ingredient
with a sheet of paper, on which was very lively painted
the thing in miniature, well to the life, were it plant,
flower, animal, or other exotic drug.

15th. Dined with the Dutch Ambassador. He did in a
manner acknowledge that his nation mind only their own
profit, do nothing out of gratitude, but collaterally as it |
relates to their gain, or security; and therefore the English
were to look for nothing of assistance to the banished |
King. This was to me no very grateful discourse, though
an ingenuous confession.

18th. Mr. Gunning celebrated the wonted Fast, and |
preached on Phil. ii. 12, 13.

24th. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] invited us to the
forty-first wedding-day feast, where was much company of |
friends.

26th. I was introduced into the acquaintance of divers
learned and worthy persons, Sir John Marsham, Mr. Dug-
dale, Mr. Stanley, and others.

gth December. I supped with Mr. Gunning, it being
our fast-day, Dr. Fearne, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain,
Dr. Henchman, Dr. Wild,! and other devout and learned
divines, firm confessors, and excellent persons. Note:
Most of them since made bishops.

1oth. I treated privately with Colonel Morley,? then |
Lieutenant of the Tower, and in great trust and power,
concerning delivering it to the King, and the bringing of
him in, to the great hazard of my life, but the Colonel
had been my school-fellow, and I knew would not betray
me.
12th. I spent in public concerns for his Majesty,
pursuing the point to bring over Colonel Morley, and his
brother-in-law, Fay, Governor of Portsmouth.

18th. Preached that famous divine, Dr. Sanderson

1 Ante, p. 320. He was of St. John’s College, Oxford, Chaplain to
Archbishop Laud, and Vicar of St. Giles’s, Reading. Adhering to the
King, he preached before the Parliament, at Oxford. After the
Restoration, he was made Bishop of Londonderry. He had kept up
a religious meeting for the Royalists in Fleet Street.

% Ante, p. 279.

1660} John Evelyn 339

(since Bishop of Lincoln), now eighty years old, on Jer.
xxx. 13, concerning the evil of forsaking God.

29th. Came my Lord Count Arundel, of Wardour, to
visit me. I went also to see my Lord Viscount Montague.

3ist. Settling my domestic affairs in order, blessed God
for his infinite mercies and preservations the past year.

ANNUS MiuRABILIS, 1659-60. January 1. Begging
God’s blessings for the following year, I went to Exeter
Chapel, when Mr. Gunning began the year on Galatians
iv. 3-7, showing the love of Christ in shedding his blood
so early for us.

12th. Wrote to Colonel Morley again to declare for his
Majesty.

22nd. 1 went this afternoon to visit Colonel Morley.
After dinner I discoursed with him; but he was very
jealous, and would not believe that Monk came in to do
the King any service; I told him that he might do it with-
out him, and have all the honour. He was still doubtful,
and would resolve on nothing yet, so I took leave.

3rd February. Kept the Fast. General Monk came
now to London out of Scotland; but no man knew what he
would do, or declare, yet he was met on his way by the
gentlemen of all the counties which he passed, with
petitions that he would recall the old long-interrupted
Parliament, and settle the nation in some order, being at
this time in most prodigious confusion, and under no
government, everybody expecting what would be next, and
what he would do.

roth. Now were the gates of the city broken down by
General Monk; which exceedingly exasperated the city,
the soldiers marching up and down as triumphing over it,
and all the old army of the fanatics put out of their posts,
and sent out of town.

11th. A signal day. Monk, perceiving how infamous
and wretched a pack of knaves would have still usurped
the supreme power, and having intelligence that they in-
tended to take away his commission, repenting of what he
had done to the city, and where he and his forces were
quartered, marches to Whitehall, dissipates that nest of
robbers, and convenes the old Parliament, the Rump Par-
liament (so called as retaining some few rotten members

1 Francis Brown, third Viscount, a zealous Royalist. He died
November 2, 1682.

340 Diary of (London

of the other) being dissolved; and for joy whereof were
many thousands of rumps roasted publicly in the streets
at the bonfires this night, with ringing of bells, and
universal jubilee. This was the first good omen.

From 17th February to 5th April, I was detained in bed
with a kind of double tertian, the cruel effects of the spleen
and other distempers, in that extremity that my physicians,
Drs. Wetherborn, Needham, and Claude, were in great
doubt of my recovery; but it pleased God to deliver me

out of this affliction, for which I render him hearty thanks: |

going to church the 8th, and receiving the biessed
Eucharist.

During this sickness, came divers of my relations and |

friends to visit me, and it retarded my going into the
country longer than I intended; however, I writ and

printed a letter, in defence of his Majesty,? against a |

wicked forged Paper, pretended to be sent from Brussels
to defame his Majesty’s person and virtues, and render

him odious, now when everybody was in hope and expecta- |
tion of the General and Parliament recalling him, and |
establishing the Government on its ancient and right basis. —

The doing this towards the decline of my sickness, and
sitting up long in my bed, had caused a small relapse, out

of which it yet pleased God also to free me, so as by the ©
14th I was able to go into the country, which I did to my

sweet and native air at Wotton.

3rd May. Came the most happy tidings of his

Majesty’s gracious declaration and applications to the
Parliament, General, and People, and their dutiful accept-
ance and acknowledgment, after a most bloody and
unreasonable rebellion of near twenty years. Praised be
for ever the Lord of Heaven, who only doeth wondrous
things, because His mercy endureth for ever.

8th. This day was his Majesty proclaimed in Lon-
don, &c.

oth. I was desired and designed to accompany my
Lord Berkeley with the public address of the Parliament,

General, &c., to the King, and invite him to come over and —

1 Pamphlets with cuts representing this special turn of the popular
heats were printed at the time.

2 With the title of ‘‘ The late News, or Message from Brussels,
unmasked.’’ This, and the pamphlet which gave rise to it, are
ceprinted in Evelyn's ‘‘ Miscellaneous Writings,’’ pp. 193-204.

1660) John Evelyn 341

assume his Kingly Government, he being now at Breda;
but I was yet so weak, I could not make that journey by
sea, which was not a little to my detriment, so I went to
London to excuse myself, returning the roth, having yet
received a gracious message from his Majesty by Major
Scot and Colonel Tuke.

24th. Came to me Colonel Morley, about procuring his
pardon, now too late seeing his error and neglect of the
counsel I gave him, by which, if he had taken it, he had
certainly done the great work with the same ease that
Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a
post to have done what he pleased, but his jealousy and
fear kept him from that blessing and honour. 1 addressed
him to Lord Mordaunt, then in great favour, for his
pardon, which he obtained at the cost of 1oool., as I heard.
O the sottish omission of this gentleman! what did I not
undergo of danger in this negociation, to have brought him
over to his Majesty’s interest, when it was entirely in his
hands !

29th. This day, his Majesty, Charles the Second came
to London, after a sad and long exile and calamitous
suffering both of the King and Church, being seventeen
years. This was also his birth-day, and with a triumph of
above 20,000 horse and foot, brandishing their swords,
and shouting with inexpressible joy ; the ways strewed with
flowers, the bells ringing, the streets hung with tapestry.
fountains running with wine; the Mayor, Aldermen, and
all the Companies, in their liveries, chains of gold, and
banners; Lords and Nobles, clad in cloth of silver, gold,
and velvet ; the windows and balconies, all set with ladies;
trumpets, music, and myriads of people flocking, even so
far as from Rochester, so as they were seven hours in
passing the city, even from two in the afternoon till nine
at night.

I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and blessed God.
And all this was done without one drop of blood shed, and
by that very army which rebelled against him: but it was
the Lord’s doing, for such a restoration was never men-
tioned in any history, ancient or modern, since the return
of the Jews from their Babylonish captivity ; nor so joyful
a day and so bright ever seen in this nation, this happening
when to expect or effect it was past all human policy.

4th June. I received letters of Sir Richard Browne’s

342 Diary of [London

landing at Dover, and also letters from the Queen, which
I was to deliver at Whitehall, not as yet presenting myself
to his Majesty, by reason of the infinite concourse of
people. The eagerness of men, women, and children, to
see his Majesty, and kiss his hands, was so great, that
he had scarce leisure to eat for some days, coming
as they did from all parts of the nation; and the King
being as willing to give them that satisfaction, would
have none kept out, but gave free access to all sorts of
people.

Addressing myself to the Duke, I was carried to his
Majesty, when very few noblemen were with him, and
kissed his hands, being very graciously received. I then
returned home, to meet Sir Richard Browne, who came not
till the 8th, after nineteen years exile, during all which
time he kept up in his chapel the liturgy and offices of the
Church of England, to his no small honour, and in a time
when it was so low, and as many thought utterly jost, that |
in various controversies both with Papists and Sectaries,
our divines used to argue for the visibility of the Church,
from his chapel and congregation.

I was all this week to and fro at Court about business.

16th. The French, Italian, and Dutch Ministers came
to make their address to his Majesty, one Monsieur Stoope
pronouncing the harangue with great eloquence. |

18th. I proposed the embassy to Constantinople for
Mr. Henshaw; but my Lord Winchelsea struck in.}

Goods that had been pillaged from Whitehall during the
Rebellion, were now daily brought in, and restored upon
proclamation; as plate, hangings, pictures, &c.

22nd. The Warwickshire gentlemen (as did all the
shires and chief towns in all the three nations) presented
their congratulatory Address. It was carried by my Lord
Northampton.

30th. The Sussex gentlemen presented their Address,
to which was my hand. I went with it, and kissed his
Majesty’s hand, who was pleased to own me more par-
ticularly by calling me his old acquaintance, and speaking
very graciously to me.

1 It was on his return from this embassy that Lord Winchelsea,
visiting Sicily, was an eye-witness of the dreadful eruption of Mount
Etna in 1669, a short account of which was afterwards published in a
small pamphlet, with a cut by Hollar of the mountain, &c.

1660) John Evelyn 343

3rd July. 1 went to Hyde-Park, where was his Majesty,
and abundance of gallantry.

4th. I heard Sir Samuel Tuke harangue to the house of
Lords, in behalf of the Roman Catholics, and his account
of the transaction at Colchester in murdering Lord Capel,
and the rest of those brave men, that suffered in cold
blood, after articles of rendition.

5th. I saw his Majesty go with as much pomp and
splendour as any earthly prince could do to the great
City feast, the first they had invited him to since his
return; but the exceeding rain which fell all that day
much eclipsed its lustres. This was at Guildhall, and
there was also all the Parliament-men, both Lords and
Commons. The streets were adorned with pageants, at
immense cost.

6th. His Majesty began first to touch for the evil!
according to custom, thus: his Majesty sitting under his
state in the Banqueting-house, the chirurgeons cause
the sick to be brought, or led, up to the throne, where
they kneeling, the king strokes their faces, or cheeks
with both his hands at once, at which instant a chaplain
in his formalities says, ‘‘ He put his hands upon them, and
he healed them.’’ This is said to every one in particular.
When they have been all touched, they come up again in
the same order, and the other chaplain kneeling, and
having angel gold! strung on white ribbon on his arm,
delivers them one by one to his Majesty, who puts them
about the necks of the touched as they pass, whilst the
first chaplain repeats, ‘‘ That is the true light who came
into the world.’’ Then follows, an epistle (as at first a
Gospel) with the Liturgy, prayers for the sick, with some
alteration; lastly the blessing; and then the Lord Cham-
berlain and the Comptroller of the Household bring a
basin, ewer and towel, for his Majesty to wash.

The king received a congratulatory address from the
city of Cologne, in Germany, where he had been some time
in his exile; his Majesty saying they were the best people
in the world, the most kind and worthy to him that he
ever met with.

I recommended Monsieur Messary to be Judge Advocate
in Jersey, by the Vice-Chamberlain’s mediation with the
Earl of St. Albans; and saluted my excellent and worthy

1 Pieces of money, so called from the figure of an angel on them.

344 Diary of {London

noble friend, my Lord Ossory, son to the Marquis of
Ormond, after many years’ absence returned home.

8th July. Mr. Henchman preached on Ephes. v. 5,
concerning Christian circumspection. From henceforth,
was the Liturgy publicly used in our churches, whence it
had been for so many years banished.

15th. Came Sir George Carteret and Lady to visit us:
he was now Treasurer of the Navy.

28th. I heard his Majesty’s speech in the Lords’ House, |
on passing the Bills of Tonnage and Poundage; restora-
tion of my Lord Ormond to his estate in Ireiand; concern-
ing the Commission of Sewers, and continuance of the
Excise.—In the afternoon, I saluted my old friend, the
Archbishop of Armagh, formerly of Londonderry (Dr.
Bramhall).!_ He presented several Irish divines to be pro-
moted as Bishops in that kingdom, most of the Bishops
in the three kingdoms being now almost worn out, and the
sees vacant.

31st. I went to visit Sir Philip Warwick, now Sec-
retary to the Lord Treasurer, at his house in North |
Cray.? |

1 John Bramhall, born in 1593, at Pontefract, in Yorkshire. Study-
ing for the Church, he obtained his Doctor’s degree in 1638, and —
became chaplain to Archbishop Matthews; then prebendary of York; —
and subsequently of Ripon. He went to Ireland on the invitation of
Lord Wentworth, and was made Bishop of Derry; but in 1641 his
conduct laid him open to charges of high treason, and he found it
necessary to quit the country, till the return of Charles II., when he
was created Archbishop of Armagh. He died in 1677, in which year
there was a publication of his works, in one volume, folio. Evelyn
subsequently refers (see the Diary, vol. ii., p. 255) to a curious letter
of his on the Irish Catholics, which caused the suppression of the
book in which it appeared.

2 He was born at Westminster, went to school at Eton, and after-
wards proceeded to Geneva. On his return to England, he attached
himself to the Court, and obtained a seat in Parliament, where he
opposed Strafford’s impeachment, and subsequently went to Oxford
with the King, who employed him in 1646 as one of his commissioners
to treat with the Parliament, and afterwards retained him as his
secretary at the Isle of Wight. He was returned for Middlesex at the
Restoration, and obtained the office of Secretary to the Lord
Treasurer, which brought him into frequent communication with
Evelyn. His death occurred in 1683. He had found time to write
‘A Discourse on Government,’’ and ‘‘ Memoirs of King Charles,’
the last containing some curious anecdotes, and the most graphic
existing account of Cromwell’s first speech in the House of Commons.
See ‘‘ Correspondence,” iii. 169-171.

660) John Evelyn 345

19th August. Our Vicar read the Thirty-nine Articles
o the congregation, the national assemblies beginning now
to settle, and wanting instruction.

23rd. Came Duke Hamilton, Lord Lothian, and several
Scottish Lords, to see my garden.

25th. Colonel Spencer, Colonel of a regiment of horse
in our county of Kent, sent to me, and entreated that |
would take a commission for a troop of horse, and that I
would nominate my Lieutenant and Ensigns; I thanked
him for the honour intended me; but would by no means
undertake the trouble.

4th September. I was invited to an ordination by the
Bishop of Bangor, in Henry VII.’s chapel, Westminster,
and afterwards saw the audience of an Envoyée from the
Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment his Majesty’s return.

5th. Came to visit and dine with me the Envoyée of
the King of Poland, and Resident of the King of Den-
mark, &c.

7th. I went to Chelsea to visit Mr. Boyle, and see his
pneumatic engine perform divers experiments. Thence,
to Kensington, to visit Mr. Henshaw, returning home that
evening.

13th. I saw in Southwark, at St. Margaret’s fair, mon-
keys and apes dance, and do other feats of activity, on
the high rope; they were gallantly clad 4 la monde, went
upright, saluted the company, bowing and pulling off their
hats, they saluted one another with as good a grace, as if
instructed by a dancing-master; they turned heels over
head with a basket having eggs in it, without breaking
any ; also, with lighted candles in their hands, and on their
heads, without extinguishing them, and with vessels of
water without spilling a drop. I also saw an Italian wench
dance, and perform all the tricks on the high rope, to
admiration; all the court went to see her. Likewise, here
was a man who took up a piece of iron cannon of about
40olb. weight with the hair of his head only.

17th. Went to London, to see the splendid entry
of the Prince de Ligne, Ambassador extraordinary from
Spain; he was General of the Spanish King’s horse in
Flanders, and was accompanied with divers great per-
sons from thence, and an innumerable retinue. His train
consisted of seventeen coaches, with six horses of his own,
besides a great number of English, &c. Greater bravery

346 Diary of [Londo

had I never seen. He was received in the Banquetin;
House, in exceeding state, all the great officers of Cour
attending.

23rd. In the midst of all this joy and jubilee, the Duk
of Gloucester died of the small-pox, in the prime of youth
and a prince of extraordinary hopes.

27th. The King received the merchant’s addresses i
his closet, giving them assurances of his persisting to kee;
Jamaica, choosing Sir Edward Massey, Governor. In th
afternoon, the Danish Ambassador’s condolences wer:
presented, on the death of the Duke of Gloucester. Thi:
evening, I saw the Princess Royal, mother to the Princ
of Orange, now come out of Holland in a fatal period.

6th October. I paid the great tax of poll-money, leviec
for disbanding the army, till now kept up. I paid as a1
Esquire rol., and one shilling for every servant in my
house.

7th. There dined with me a French Count, with Si
George Tuke, who came to take leave of me, being sen
over to the Queen-Mother, to break the marriage of the
Duke with the daughter of Chancellor Hyde. The Queer
would fain have undone it; but it seems matters were
reconciled, on great offers of the Chancellor’s to befrienc
the Queen, who was much in debt, and was now to have
the settlement of her affairs go through his hands.

11th. The regicides who sat on the life of our lat
King were brought to trial in the Old Bailey, before
commission of Oyer and Terminer.

14th. Axtall, Carew, Clement, Hacker, Hewson, an
Peters, were executed.

17th. Scot, Scroop, Cook, and Jones, suffered f
reward of their iniquities at Charing Cross, in sight of t
place where they put to death their natural prince, and i
the presence of the King his son, whom they also sough
to kill. I saw not their execution, but met their quarter
mangled, and cut, and reeking, as they were brought fro
the gallows in baskets on the hurdle. Oh, the miraculo
providence of God!

28th. His Majesty went to meet the Queen-Mother.

29th. Going to London, my Lord Mayor’s show stopp
me in Cheapside; one of the pageants represented a grez
wood, with the royal oak, and history of his Majesty
miraculous escape at Boscobel.

1660] John Evelyn 347

31st. Arrived now to my fortietn year, I rendered to
Almighty God my due and hearty thanks.

1st November. I went with some of my relations to
Court, to show them his Majesty’s cabinet and closet of
rarities ; the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver, after Raphael,
Titian, atid other masters, which I infinitely esteem ; also,
that large piece of the Duchess of Lennox, done in
enamel, by Petitot, and a vast number of agates, onyxes,
and intaglios, especially a medallion of Cesar, as broad
as my hand; likewise, rare cabinets of pietra-commessa, a
landscape of needle-work, formerly presented by the
Dutch to King Charles the First. Here I saw a vast book
of maps, in a volume near four yards large; a curious
ship model; and, amongst the clocks, one that showed the
rising and setting of the sun in the zodiac; the sun repre-
sented by a face and rays of gold, upon an azure sky,
observing the diurnal and annual motion, rising and set-
ting behind a landscape of hills, the work of our famous
Fromantil; and several other rarities.

3rd. Arrived the Queen-Mother in England, whence she
aad been banished for almost twenty years; together with
her illustrious daughter, the Princess Henrietta, divers
Princes and Noblemen, accompanying them.

isth. I kissed the Queen-Mother’s hand.

20th. I dined at the Clerk Comptroller’s of the Green
Cloth, being the first day of the re-establishment of the
Court diet, and settling of his Majesty’s household.

23rd. Being this day in the bedchamber of the Princess
Henrietta, where were many great beauties and noblemen,
I saluted divers of my old friends and acquaintances
abroad; his Majesty carrying my Wife to salute the Queen
and Princess, and then led her into his closet, and with
his own hands showed her divers curiosities.

25th. Dr. Rainbow preached before the King, on Luke
ii. 14, of the glory to be given God for all his mercies,
especially for restoring the Church and government; now
the service was performed with music, voices, &c., as
formerly.

27th. Came down the Clerk Comptroller [of the Green
Cloth] by the Lord Steward’s appointment, to survey the
land at Sayes Court, on which I had pretence, and to
make his report.

1 Up to this time it was stil] the usage to supply the King’s House-
I 220 N

348 Diary of [London

6th December. | waited on my Brother and Sister
Evelyn to Court. Now were presented to his Majesty those
two rare pieces of droHery, or rather a Dutch Kitchen,
painted by Dowe, so finely as hardly to be distinguished
from enamel. I was also showed divers rich jewels and
crystal vases; the rare head of Jo. Bellino, Titian’s master ;
Christ in the Garden, by Hannibal Caracci; two incompar-
able heads, by Holbein; the Queen-Mother in a miniature,
almost as big as the life; an exquisite piece of carving;
two unicorn’s horns, &c. This in the closet.

13th. I presented my Son, John, to the Queen-Mother,
who kissed him, talked with and made extraordinary much
of him.

14th. I visited my Lady Chancellor, the Marchioness of
Ormond, and Countess of Guildford,! all of whom we had)
known abroad in exile.

18th. I carried Mr. Spellman, a most ingenious gentle-
man, grandchild to the learned Sir Henry, to my Lord |
Mordaunt, to whom I had recommended him as Secretary. |

21st. This day died the Princess of Orange, of the
small-pox, which entirely altered the face and gallantry of |
the whole Court. .

22nd. The marriage of the Chancellor’s daughter being
now newly owned, | went to see her, she being Sir Richard
Browne’s intimate acquaintance when she waited on the
Princess of Orange; she was now at her father’s, at Wor-
cester-House, in the Strand. We all kissed her hand, as
did also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) and Countess
of Northumberland. This was a strange change—can it
succeed well ?—I spent the evening at St. James’s, whither
the Princess Henrietta was retired during the fatal sickness
of her sister, the Princess of Orange, now come over to
salute the King her brother. The Princess gave my Wife
an extraordinary compliment and gracious acceptance, for

hold with corn and cattle from the different counties; and upon oxe
being sent up, pasture-grounds of the King, near town, were allotted
for them; among these were lands at Deptford, and Tottenham-Court,
which were under the direction of the Lord Steward and Board o
Green Cloth. Sir Richard Browne had the keeping of the lands a
Deptford.

1 Elizabeth, daughter of William, first Earl of Denbigh, marrie
to Lewis, Viscount Boyle, who fell at the Battle of Liscarrol, i
1642. She was advanced to the Peerage for life, on the 14th July
1660, as Countess of Guildford, and died in 1673.

1661] John Evelyn 349

the ‘‘ Character ’’! she had presented her the day before,
and which was afterwads printed.

25th December. Preached at the Abbey, Dr. Earle,
Clerk of his Majesty’s Closet, and my dear friend, now
Dean of Westminster, on Luke ii. 13, 14, condoling the
breach made in the public joy by the lamented death of the
Princess.

30th. I dined at Court with Mr. Crane, Clerk of the
Green Cloth.

gist. I gave God thanks for his many signal mercies
to myself, church, and nation, this wonderful year.

1660-1. 2nd January. The Queen-Mother, with the
Princess Henrietta, began her journey to Portsmouth, in
order to her return into France.

sth. I visited my Lord Chancellor Clarendon, with
whom I had been well acquainted abroad.

6th. Dr. Allestree preached at the Abbey, after which
four Bishops were consecrated, Hereford, Norwich,.....

This night was suppressed a bloody insurrection of some
Fifth-M onarchy enthusiasts. Some of them were examined
at the Council the next day, but could say nothing to ex-
tenuate their madness and unwarrantable zeal.

I was now chosen (and nominated by his Majesty for
one of the Council), by suffrage of the rest of the Members,
a Fellow of the Philosophic Society now meeting at
Gresham College, where was an assembly of divers learned
gentlemen. This being the first meeting since the King’s
return; but it had been begun some years before at
Oxford, and was continued with interruption here in
London during the Rebellion.

There was another rising of the fanatics, in which some
were slain.

16th. I went to the Philosophic Club, where was ex-
amined the Torricellian experiment. I presented my
Circle of Mechanical Trades, and had recommended to me
the publishing what I had written of Chalcography.2

25th. After divers years since I had seen any play, I
went to see acted The Scornful Lady, at a new theatre in
Lincoln’s-Inn-Fields.

30th. Was the first solemn fast and day of humiliation

1 “ A Character of England,’’ reprinted in Evelyn’s ‘‘ Miscellaneous
Writings,’’ pp. 141-167.
2 See post, p. 372.

350 Diary of [London

to deplore the sins which had so long provoked God against
this afflicted church and people, ordered by Parliament to
be annually celebrated to expiate the guilt of the execrable
murder of the late King.

This day (O the stupendous and inscrutable judgments
of God !) were the carcases of those arch-rebels, Cromwell,
Bradshawe (the judge who condemned his Majesty), and
Ireton (son-in-law to the Usurper), dragged out of their
superb tombs in Westminster among the Kings, to Tyburn,
and hanged on the gallows there from nine in the morning |
till six at night, and then buried under that fatal and igno-
minious monument in a deep pit; thousands of people who ©
had seen them in all their pride being spectators. Look back
at October 22, 1658,1 and be astonished! and fear God
and honour the King; but meddle not with them who are
given to change!

6th February. To London, to our Society, where I _
gave notice of the visit of the Danish Ambassador-
Extraordinary, and was ordered to return him their
acceptance of that honour, and to invite him the next |
meeting day.

1oth. Dr. Baldero preached at Ely-house, on Matthew
vi. 33, of seeking early the kingdom of God; after sermon,
the Bishop (Dr. Wren) gave us the blessing, very pontific-
ally.

13th. I conducted the Danish Ambassador to our meet-
ing at Gresham College, where were showed him various
experiments in vacuo, and other curiosities.

21st. Prince Rupert first showed me how to grave in
meggo tinto.

26th. I went to Lord Mordaunt’s, at Parson’s Green.?

27th. Ash-Wednesday. Preached before the King the
Bishop of London (Dr. Sheldon) on Matthew xviii. 25,
concerning charity and forgiveness.

8th March. I went to my Lord Chancellor’s, and
delivered to him the state of my concernment at Sayes
Court.

oth. I went with that excellent person and philosopher,

1 Ante, p. 334: the entry in the Diary describing the Protector’s
funeral.

2 This house remained in the family until during the 18th century.
when Lord Peterborough sold it to Mr. Heaviside, who a few years

after sold it to Mr. Merrick, an army agent. The old house was then
pulled down, to make way for that now standing there.

1661} John Evelyn 351

Sir Robert Murray, to visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsea, and saw
divers effects of the eolipile for weighing air.

13th. I went to Lambeth, with Sir R. Browne’s pre-
tence to the Wardenship of Merton College, Oxford, to
which, as having been about forty years before a student
of that House, he was elected by the votes of every Fellow
except one: but the statutes of the House being so that,
unless every Fellow agree, the election devolves to the
Visitor, who is the Archbishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon),
his Grace gave his nomination to Sir T. Clayton, resident
there, and the Physic Professor; for which I was not at all
displeased, because, though Sir Richard missed it by much
ingratitude and wrong of the Archbishop (Clayton being
no Fellow), yet it would have hindered Sir Richard from
attending at Court to settle his greater concerns, and
so have prejudiced me, though he was much inclined to
have passed his time in a collegiate life, very unfit for
him at that time, for many reasons. So I took leave of
his Grace, who was formerly Lord Treasurer in the reign
of Charles I.

This afternoon, Prince Rupert showed me, with his own
hands, the new way of graving, called mezzo tinto, which
afterwards, by his permission, I published in my History of
Chalcography ;1 this set so many artists on work, that they
soon arrived to the perfection it is since come to, emulating
the tenderest miniatures.

Our Society now gave in my relation of the Peak of
Teneriffe, in the Great Canaries, to be added to more
queries concerning divers natural things reported of that
island.

1 returned home with my Cousin, Tuke, now going for
France, as sent by his Majesty to condole the death of that
great Minister and politician, Count Mazarine.

29th. Dr. Heylin (author of the Geography) preached
at the Abbey, on Cant. v. 25, concerning friendship and
charity; he was, I think, at this time quite dark, and so
had been for some years.

31st. This night, his Majesty promised to make my
Wife Lady of the Jewels (a very honourable charge) to
the future Queen (but which he never performed).

1st April. I dined with that great mathematician and
virtuoso, Monsieur Zulichem,? inventor of the pendule

1 See post, p. 372. 3 See hereafter, under July, 1664.

352 Diary of [London

clock, and discoverer of the phenomenon of Saturn’s annu-
lus: he was elected into our Society.

19th. To London, and saw the bath-ing and rest of the
ceremonies of the Knights of the Bath, preparatory to the
coronation; it was in the Painted Chamber, Westminster.
I might have received this honour; but declined it. The
rest of the ceremony was in the chapel at Whitehall, when
their swords being !aid on the altar, the Bishop delivered
them.

22nd. Was the splendid cavalcade of his Majesty from
the Tower of London to Whitehall, when I saw him in the |
Banqueting House create six Earls, and as many Barons,
viz.

Edward Lord Hyde,! Lord Chancellor, Earl of Claren-
don; supported by the Earls of Northumberland and Sus-
sex; the Earl of Bedford carried the cap and coronet, the
Earl of Warwick, the sword, the Earl of Newport, the
mantle.

Next, was Capel, created Earl of Essex.

Bradenelf,.. . >... Cardigan;
Valentia,. . . i Anglesea;
Greenvilly) 3.1 e297 Baths sand
Howard, Earl of Carlisle.?

1 “In 1656, or 1657, attempts were made to remove the Chancellor
(Hyde), by accusing him of betraying his Majesty’s Counsels, and
holding correspondence with Cromwell; but these allegations were so
trivial and frivolous, that they manifestly appeared to be nothing but
the effects of malice against him, and therefore produced the con-
trary effects to those which some desired, and strengthened the King’s
kindness to him; as giving him just occasion to believe that these |
suggestions against him proceeded all from one and the same cause,
namely, from the ambition which some people had to enter in his
room to the first trust of his Majesty’s affairs, if once they could
remove him from his station.’’—Life of King James II. from his own
papers, 1816, vol. i. p. 274.

2 The first of these was the son of the celebrated Royalist general,
Sir Bevill Grenville, by whose side he had fought in several batties
with great gallantry, though a mere youth. During the Protectorate
he had acted as Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Charles II., for
whom he conducted negotiations with Monk. He died in 1701.—The
new Earl of Carlisle was Charles, created Baron Dacre, Viscount and
Earl of Carlisle, who held several important offices. He was Ambas-
sador to the Czar of Muscovy, and was afterwards sent with the
Order of the Garter to Charles XII., King of Sweden. He was also
Governor of Jamaica. He died February 24th, 1684.—Denzil Holles
was second son of John, first Earl of Clare, and at the commencement
of his career vigorously opposed in Parliament the arbitrary measures

1661] John Evelyn 353

The Barons were: Denzille Holles; Cornwallis; Booth;
Townsend; Cooper; Crew; who were led up by several
Peers, with Garter and officers of arms before them; when,
after obedience on their several approaches to the throne,
their patents were presented by Garter King-at-Arms,
which being received by the Lord Chamberlain, and de-
livered to his Majesty, and by him to the Secretary of
State, were read, and then again delivered to his Majesty,
and by him to the several Lords created; they were then
robed, their coronets and collars put on by his Majesty, and
they were placed in rank on both sides the state and
throne; but the Barons put off their caps and circles, and
held them in their hands, the Earls keeping on their
coronets, as cousins to the King.

I spent the rest of the evening in seeing the several arch-
triumphals built in the streets at several eminent places
through which his Majesty was next day to pass, some of
which, though temporary, and to stand but one year, were
of good invention and architecture, with inscriptions.

23rd April. Was the Coronation of his Majesty Charles
the Second in the Abbey-Church of Westminster; at all
which ceremony I was present. The King and his Nobility
went to the Tower, I accompanying my Lord Viscount
Mordaunt part of the way; this was on Sunday, the 22nd;
but indeed his Majesty went not till early this morning, and
proceeded from thence to Westminster, in this order.!

First, went the Duke of York’s Horse Guards. Messen-
gers of the Chamber. 136 Esquires to the Knights of the
Bath, each of whom had two, most richly habited. The
Knight Harbinger. Serjeant Porter. Sewers of the
Chamber. Quarter Waiters. Six Clerks of Chancery.
Clerk of the Signet. Clerk of the Privy Seal. Clerks of
the Council, of the Parliament, and of the Crown. Chap-

of Charles I.; but during the Commonwealth he sought to restore the
monarchy, for which, as we now see, he was created Baron Holles.
He was employed as Ambassador Extraordinary to the Court of
France, and Plenipotentiary at the Treaty of Breda. Nevertheless, he
subsequently was held to have gone round to his old opinions, and was
again under disfavour as a patriot in the latter days of his life, which
terminated on the 17th February, 1679-80. Cornwallis was Sir
Frederick Cornwallis, Bart., here, for his services to Charles I. and
Charles II., created Baron Cornwallis, of Eye. He died in 1662.

1 A full account of this ceremony, with elaborate engravings,
appeared in a folio volume published by John Ogilby, 1662.

354 Diary of (London

lains in ordinary having dignities, 10. King’s Advocates
and Remembrancer. Council at Law. Masters of the
Chancery. Puisne Serjeants. King’s Attorney and Soli-
citor. King’s eldest Serjeant. Secretaries of the French
and Latin tongue. Gentlemen Ushers. Daily waiters,
Sewers, Carvers, and Cupbearers in ordinary. Esquires of
the body, 4. Masters of standing officers, being no Counsel-
lors, viz., of the Tents, Revels, Ceremonies, Armoury,
Wardrobe, Ordnance, Requests. Chamberlain of the

Exchequer. Barons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord

Chief-Baron. Lord Chief-Justice of the Common Pleas.
Master of the Rolls. Lord Chief-Justice of England.

Trumpets. Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber. Knights of |

the Bath, 68, in crimson robes, exceeding rich, and the

noblest show of the whole cavalcade, his Majesty excepted. |

Knight Marshal. Treasurer of the Chamber. Master of
the Jewels. Lords of the Privy Council. Comptroller of
the Household. Treasurer of the Household. Trumpets.

Serjeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at Arms. Barons. —

Two Pursuivants at Arms. Viscounts. Two Heralds.
Earls. Lord Chamberlain of the Household. Two Heralds.
Marquises. Dukes. Heralds Clarencieux and Norroy. Lord
Chancellor. Lord High Steward of England. Two persons

representing the Dukes of Normandy and Acquitaine, viz., |

Sir Richard Fanshawe and Sir Herbert Price, in fantastic
habits of the time. Gentlemen Ushers. Garter. Lord
Mayor of London. The Duke of York alone (the rest by
two’s). Lord High Constable of England. Lord Great
Chamberlain of England. The sword borne by the Earl
Marshal of England. The KING, in royal robes and equip-
age. Afterwards, followed equerries, footmen, gentlemen
pensioners. Master of the Horse, leading a horse richly
caparisoned. Vice-Chamberlain. Captain of the Pen-
sioners. Captain of the Guard. The Guard. The Horse-
Guard. The troop of Volunteers, with many other officers
and gentlemen.

This magnificent train on horseback, as rich as em-
broidery, velvet, cloth of gold and silver, and jewels, could
make them and their prancing horses, proceeded through

the streets strewed with flowers, houses hung with rich

tapestry, windows and balconies full of ladies; the London
militia lining the ways, and the several companies, with
their banners and loud music, ranked in their orders; the

|

1661] John Evelyn 355

fountains running wine, bells ringing, with speeches made
at the several triumphal arches; at that of the Temple Bar
(near which I stood) the Lord Mayor was received by the
Bailiff of Westminster, who, in a scarlet robe, made a
speech. Thence, with joyful acclamations, his Majesty
passed to Whitehall. Bonfires at night.

The next day, being St. George’s, he went by water to
Westminster Abbey. When his Majesty was entered, the
Dean and Prebendaries brought all the regalia, and
delivered them to several noblemen to bear before the King,
who met them at the west door of the church, singing an
anthem, to the choir. Then, came the peers, in their robes,
and coronets in their hands, till his Majesty was placed on
a throne elevated before the altar. Afterwards, the Bishop
of London (the Archbishop of Canterbury being sick) went
to every side of the throne to present the King to the
People, asking if they would have him for their King, and
do him homage; at this, they shouted four times ‘‘ God
save King Charles the Second!’’ Then, an anthem was
sung. His Majesty, attended by three Bishops, went up to
the altar, and he offered a pall and a pound of gold. After-
wards, he sate down in another chair during the sermon,
which was preached by Dr. Morley, Bishop of Worcester.

After sermon, the King took his oath before the altar to
maintain the religion, Magna Charta, and laws of the land.
The hymn Véni S. Sp. followed, and then the Litany by
two Bishops. Then the Archbishop of Canterbury, present
but much indisposed and weak, said ‘‘ Lift up your
hearts;’’ at which, the King rose up, and put off his robes
and upper garments, and was in a waistcoat so opened in
divers places, that the Archbishop might commodiously
anoint him, first in the palms of his hands, when an anthem
was sung, and a prayer read; then, his breast and betwixt
the shoulders, bending of both arms; and, lastly, on the
crown of the head, with apposite hymns and prayers at
each anointing; this done, the Dean closed and buttoned
up the waistcoat. After which, was a coif put on, and the
cobbium, sindon or dalmatic, and over this a super-tunic of
cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of the same, spurs,
and the sword; a prayer being first said over it by the
Archbishop on the altar, before it was girt on by the Lord
Chamberlain. Then, the armill, mantle, &c. Then, the
Archbishop placed the crown-imperial on the altar, prayed

I 220 *y

}
3 56 Diar y of [London |

over it, and set it on his Majesty’s head, at which all the
Peers put on their coronets. Anthems, and rare music, with
lutes, viols, trumpets, organs, and voices, were then heard,
and the Archbishop put a ring on his Majesty’s finger. The’
King next offered his sword on the altar, which being’
redeemed, was drawn, and borne before him. Then, the
Archbishop delivered him the sceptre, with the dove in one
hand, and, in the other, the sceptre with the globe. The
King kneeling, the Archbishop pronounced the blessing.
His Majesty then ascending again his royal throne, whilst
Te Deum was singing, all the Peers did their homage, by
every one touching his crown. The Archbishop, and the
rest of the Bishops, first kissing the King; who received
the Holy Sacrament, and so disrobed, yet with the crown-
imperial on his head, and accompanied with all the nobility
in the former order, he went on foot upon blue cloth,
which was spread and reached from the west door of
the Abbey to Westminster stairs, when he took water in
a triumphal barge to Whitehall, where was extraordinary
feasting.

24th April. I presented his Majesty with his ‘‘ Pane-
gyric’’’1 in the Privy Chamber, which he was pleased t
accept most graciously; I gave copies to the Lord Chan
cellor, and most of the noblemen who came to me for it.
I dined at the Marquis of Ormond’s, where was a magnifi
cent feast, and many great persons.

1st May. I went to Hyde Park to take the air, wher
was his Majesty, and an innumerable appearance of gal
lants and rich coaches, being now a time of universal fes
tivity and joy.

2nd. I had audience of my Lord Chancellor about m
title to Sayes Court.

3rd. 1 went to see the wonderful engine for weavin
silk stockings, said to have been the invention of an Oxfor
scholar forty years since; and I returned by Fromantil’
the famous clock-maker, to see some pendules, Monsie
Zulichem being with us.

This evening, I was with my Lord Brouncker,? Si

1 A poem which Evelyn had composed on his Majesty’s Coronatio
the 23rd of April, 1661; being St. George’s day. For his Majesty
not unnatural alarm respecting it, see ‘‘ Correspondence,”’ iii. 132.

2 Sir William, the second Viscount Brounker, was the first Pres
dent of the Royal Society; and several mathematical papers writtet

1661] John Evelyn 357

Robert Murray, Sir Patrick Neill, Monsieur Zulichem, and
Bull (all of them of our Society, and excellent mathe-
maticians), to show his Majesty, who was present, Saturn’s
annulus, as some thought, but as Zulichem affirmed with
his balteus (as that learned gentleman had published), very
near eclipsed by the moon, near the Mons Porphyritis;
also, Jupiter and satellites, through his Majesty’s great
telescope, drawing thirty-five feet; on which were divers
discourses.

Sth. His Majesty rode in state, with his imperial crown
on, and all the peers in their robes, in great pomp to the
parliament now newly chosen (the old one being dissolved) ;
and, that evening, declared in council his intention to marry
the Infanta of Portugal.

ath. At Sir Robert Murray’s, where I met Dr. Wallis,}
Professor of Geometry in Oxford, where was discourse of
several mathematical subjects.

11th. My Wife presented to his Majesty the Madonna
she had copied in miniature from P. Oliver’s painting,
after Raphael, which she wrought with extraordinary
pains and judgment. The King was infinitely pleased
with it, and caused it to be placed in his cabinet amongst
his best paintings.

13th. I heard and saw such exercises at the election of
scholars at Westminster School to be sent to the University
in Latin, Greek, Hebrew, and Arabic, in themes and
extemporary verses, as wonderfully astonished me in such
youths, with such readiness and wit, some of them not
above twelve, or thirteen years of age. Pity it is, that what
they attain here so ripely, they either do not retain, or do

by him are to be found in their transactions. He died April 5th, 1684.
He was also Chancellor to Queen Catharine of Braganza, a Com-
missioner of the Admiralty, and Master of St. Katherine’s Hospital.

1 John Wallis, born in 1616, at Ashford, in Kent, of which place his
father was minister. Adopting the same profession, he took his
degree of Doctor of Divinity, became chaplain to a Yorkshire baronet
in 1641, and obtained the living of St. Gabriel, Fenchurch-street,
London, in 1643. As we learn from Evelyn, he was one of the earliest
members of the Royal Society, to the transactions of which he con-
tributed many valuable papers, and wrote several mathematical and
theological works. He was appointed chaplain to Charles I1., and had
been employed in decyphering intercepted correspondence, in which
he was considered remarkably clever. He died October, 1703, at
Oxford, where his works had previously been published in three
volumes, folio.

358 Diary of [Loaddel

not improve more considerably when they come to be men,
though many of them do; and no less is to be blamed their
odd pronouncing of Latin, so that out of England none
were able to understand, or endure it. The examinants, or!
posers, were, Dr. Duport, Greek Professor at Cambridge ;
Dr. Fell, Dean of Christ-Church, Oxford;! Dr. Pierson, |
Dr. Allestree, Dean of Westminster, and any that would.
14th. His Majesty was pleased to discourse with me
concerning several particulars relating to our Society, |
and the planet Saturn, &c., as he sate at supper in the
withdrawing-room to his bed-chamber. |
16th. I dined with Mr. Garmus, the resident from
Hamburgh, who continued his feast near nine whole)
hours, according to the custom of his country, though
there was no great excess of drinking, no man being
obliged to take more than he liked.
22nd. The Scotch Covenant was burnt by the common]
hangman in divers places in London. Oh, prodigious)
change !
29th. This was the first anniversary appointed by Act
of Parliament to be observed as a day of General Thanks-
giving for the miraculous restoration of his Majesty: our
vicar preaching on Psalm cxviii. 24, requiring us to be
thankful and rejoice, as indeed we had cause.
4th June. Came Sir Charles Harbord, his Majesty's

1 James Duport was the son of the Master of Jesus’ College, Cam-
bridge, where he was born in the year 1606. He finished his education
at Trinity, and was appointed Regius Professor of Greek in 1632, but
was deprived in 1656 for refusing the engagement. He was Pre-
bendary of Lincoln and Archdeacon of Stow in 1641, and in 1660
chaplain to Charles II., when he was restored to his Greek Professor-
ship, created Doctor of Divinity, made Dean of Peterborough, and, in
1668, elected Master of Magdalen College. He was a good classical
scholar.—John Fell, born June 23rd, 1625, at Longworth, in Berk
shire, was son of the Dean of Christchurch. He was removed from
the grammar-school at Thame, when only eleven years of age, to
become a student at Christchurch, Oxford, his father being at the
time Vice-Chancellor of the University. Of this appointment the elder
Fell was deprived by the Parliament, and his son expelled from hi
College, for having been in arms for the King. The father died
upon hearing of the execution of Charles, but the son was not over
fooked at the Restoration, receiving a stall at Chichester, and after-
wards a more valuable one at Christchurch. He served the office
of Vice-Chancellor of the University in 1666, and, in 1676, was mad
Bishop of Oxford. Bishop Fell was a voluminous author. He die¢
in 1686.

661] John Evelyn 359

urveyor, to take an account of what grounds I challenged
t Sayes Court.

27th. I saw the Portugal Ambassador at dinner with
is Majesty in state, where was excellent music.

2nd july. 1 went to see the New Spring-Garden, at
ambeth, a pretty contrived plantation.

1oth. We tried our Diving-Bell, or engine, in the
water-dock at Deptford, in which our curator continued
half an hour under water; it was made of cast lead, let
down with a strong cable.

3rd August. Came my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his
Majesty’s household, to visit me.

oth. 1 tried several experiments on the sensitive plant

and humilis, which contracted with the least touch of the
sun through a burning-glass, though it rises and opens
only when it shines on it.
I first saw the famous Queen Pine? brought from Bar-
badoes, and presented to his Majesty; but the first that
were ever seen in England were those sent to Cromwell
four years since.

I dined at Mr. Palmer’s in Gray’s Inn, whose curiosity
excelled in clocks and pendules, especially one that had
innumerable motions, and played nine or ten tunes on the
bells very finely, some of them set in parts; which was
very harmonious. It was wound up but once in a quarter.
He had also good telescopes and mathematical instru-
ments, choice pictures, and other curiosities. Thence, we
went to that famous mountebank, Jo. Punteus.

Sir Kenelm Digby presented every one of us his Dis-
course of the Vegetation of Plants; and Mr. Henshaw,
his History of Salt-Petre and Gunpowder. I assisted him
to procure his place of French Secretary to the King,
which he purchased of Sir Henry De Vic.

1 went to that famous physician, Sir Fr. Prujean, who
showed me his laboratory, his work-house for turning, and
other mechanics; also many excellent pictures, especially
the Magdalen of Caracci; and some incomparable paysages

1 Since better known as the Vauxhall Gardens.

2 A print in the line manner, 13 inches by 12, was engraved in 1823
by Robert Grave, from the picture at Strawberry-Hill, of King
Charles II. receiving this species of fruit from Rose his gardener, whe
is presenting it on his knees at Dawney Court, Buckinghamshire,
the seat of the celebrated Duchess of Cleveland. See post, vol. ii. p. 37,

360 Diary of (Greenwich

done in distemper; he played to me likewise on the poly-
thore, an instrument having something of the harp, lute,
and theorbo; by none known in England, nor described by
any author, nor used, but by this skilful and learned
Doctor. ‘

isth August. I went to Tunbridge-Wells, my wife
being there for the benefit of her health. Walking about
the solitudes, I greatly admired the extravagant turnings, |
insinuations, and growth of certain birch-trees among the
rocks.

13th September. 1 presented my Fumifugium! dedi-
cated to his Majesty, who was pleased that I should
publish it by his special commands, being much gratified
with it.

18th. This day was read our petition to his Majesty]
for his royal grant, authorizing our Society to meet as a
corporation, with several privileges.

An exceeding sickly, wet autumn.

1st October. I sailed this morning with his Majesty in]
one of his yachts (or pleasure-boats), vessels not known
among us till the Dutch East India Company presented]
that curious piece to the King; being very excellent sail-
ing vessels. It was on a wager between his other new|
pleasure-boat, built frigate-like, and one of the Duke of
York’s; the wager 1ool.; the race from Greenwich to
Gravesend and back. The King lost it going, the wind
being contrary, but saved stakes in returning. There were
divers noble persons and lords on board, his Majesty some-|
time steering himself. His barge and kitchen boat
attended. I brake fast this morning with the King at
return in his smaller vessel, he being pleased to take me
and only four more, who were noblemen, with him; but
dined in his yacht, where we all eat together with his
Majesty. In this passage he was pleased to discourse to
me about my book inveighing against the nuisance of the
smoke of London, and proposing expedients how, by
removing those particulars 1 mentioned,? it might be
reformed; commanding me to prepare a Bill against the
next session of Parliament, being, as he said, resolved to
have something done in it. Then he discoursed to me of

|

1 This pamphlet having become scarce, was in 1772 reprinted in
4to, and is now incorporated in Evelyn’s ‘‘ Miscellaneous Writings.”
3 In the Fumtfugium, before mentioned.

1661] John Evelyn 361

the improvement of gardens and buildings, now very rare
in England comparatively to other countries. He then
commanded me to draw up the matter of fact happening
at the bloody encounter which then had newly happened
between the French and Spanish Ambassadors near the
Tower, contending for precedency, at the reception of the
Swedish Ambassador; giving me order to consult Sir
William Compton, Master of the Ordnance, to inform me
of what he knew of it, and with his favourite, Sir Charles
Berkeley,! captain of the Duke’s life-guard, then present
with his troop and three foot-companies; with some other
reflections and instructions, to be prepared with a declara-
tion to take off the reports which went about of his
Majesty’s partiality in the affairs, and of his officers’ and
spectators’ rudeness whilst the conflict lasted. So I came
home that night, and went next morning to London, where
trom the officers of the Tower, Sir William Compton, Sir
Charles Berkeley, and others who were attending at this
meeting of the Ambassadors three days before, having
collected what I could, I drew up a Narrative in vindication
of his Majesty, and the carriage of his officers and
standers-by.

On Thursday, his Majesty sent one of the pages of the
back stairs for me to wait on him with my papers, in his
cabinet, where was present only Sir Henry Bennett 2
(Privy-Purse), when beginning to read to his Majesty what
I had drawn up, by the time I had read half a page, came
in Mr. Secretary Morice with a large paper, desiring to
speak with his Majesty, who told him he was now very
busy, and therefore ordered him to come again some other
time; the Secretary replied that what he had in his hand
was of extraordinary importance. So the King rose up,
and, commanding me to stay, went aside to a corner of
the room with the Secretary; after a while, the Secretary
being despatched, his Majesty returning to me at the
table, a letter was brought him from Madame out of
France ;° this he read and then bid me proceed from where
I left off. This I did till I had ended all the narrative, to
his Majesty’s great satisfaction; and, after I had inserted

1 Subsequently that Earl of Falmouth who was killed by the side
of the Duke of York in the first Dutch war.

3 Afterwards Secretary of State, Earl of Arlington, and Lord
Chamberlain. 3 Henrietta Maria.

362 Diary of [London

one or two more clauses, in which his Majesty instructed
me, commanded that it should that night be sent to the
Post-house, directed to the Lord Ambassador at Paris (the
Earl of St. Alban’s), and then at leisure to prepare him a
copy, which he would publish. This I did, and immedi-
ately sent my papers to the Secretary of State, with his
Majesty’s express command of despatching them that)
night for France. Before I went out of the King’s closet,
he called me back to show me some ivory statues, and|
other curiosities that I had not seen before.

3rd October. Next evening, being in the withdrawing-|
room adjoining the bedchamber, his Majesty espying me
came to me from a great crowd of noblemen standing)
near the fire, and asked me if I had done; and told me he
feared it might be a little too sharp, on second thoughts ;
for he had that morning spoken with the French Ambas+
sador, who it seems had palliated the matter, and was very
tame; and therefore directed me where I should soften a
period or two, before it was published (as afterwards it
was). This night also he spake to me to give him a
sight of what was sent, and to bring it to him in his. bed-
chamber; which I did, and received it again from him
at dinner, next day. By Saturday, having finished it with
all his Majesty’ s notes, the King being gone abroad, I
sent the papers to Sir Henry Bennett (Privy-Purse and,
a great favourite), and slipped home, being myself much
indisposed and harassed with going about, and sitting
up to write.

19th. I went to London to visit my Lord of Bristol,!
having been with Sir John Denham (his Majesiy’s

1 George Digby, second Earl, had suffered much for Royalty, but
was made Knight of the Garter, and might have held important
employments, had he not, when abroad, become a Catholic. He died
in 1676. Horace Walpole thus smartly sums up his character: ‘‘ He
wrote against Popery, and embraced it. He was a zealous opposer
of the Court, and a sacrifice for it: was conscientiously converted in
the midst of his prosecution of Lord Strafford, and was most uncon-
scientiously a prosecutor of Lord Clarendon. With great parts he
always hurt himself and his friends. With romantic bravery, he was
always an unsuccessful commander. He spoke for the Test Act,
though a Roman Catholic; and addicted himself to astrology on the
birth-day of true philosophy.’’ (Royal and Noble Authors, Vol. II.,
p. 25.) Grammont mentions him, but in terms far from respectful :
nor does ‘‘ my lord of Bristol’’ appear to more advantage in the
annals of Bussy, or in the continuation of his life by Clarendon.

1661] John Evelyn 363

surveyor) to consult with him about the placing of his
palace at Greenwich, which I would have had built be-
tween the river and the Queen’s house, so as a large
square cut should have let in the Thames like a bay; but
Sir John was for sctting it on piles at the very brink of
the water, which I did not assent to; and so came away,
knowing Sir John to be a better poet than architect, though
he had Mr. Webb (Inigo Jones’s man) to assist him.

29th. I saw the Lord Mayor ! pass in his water triumph
to Westminster, being the first solemnity of this nature
after twenty years.

2nd November. Came Sir Henry Bennett, since Lord
Arlington, to visit me, and to acquaint me that his
Majesty would do me the honour to come and see my
garden; but, it being then late, it was deferred.

3rd. One Mr. Breton preached his probation-sermon at
our parish-church, and indeed made a most excellent dis-
course on the John i. 29, of God’s free grace to penitents,
so that I could not but recommend him to the patron.2

roth. In the afternoon, preached at the Abbey Dr.
Basire, that great traveller, or rather French Apostle,3
who had been planting the Church of England in divers
parts of the Levant and Asia. He showed that the Church
of England was, for purity of doctrine, substance, decency,
and beauty, the most perfect under Heaven; that England
was the very land of Goshen.

11th. I was so idle as to go to see a play called Love
and Honour.4—Dined at Arundel House; and that evening

1 Sir John Frederick. The pageant for this day was called ‘‘ Lon-
don’s Triumph, at the Charges of the Grocers’ Company. - By John
Tatham.’’ See the Gentleman’s Magazine, xctv. ii. 517.

2 He obtained the living.

3 See post, p. 377, and ‘‘ Correspondence,’’ vol. iii. p. 3, and p. 218.
isaac Basire, born in the Island of Jersey, in 1607; was educated for
the Church; for some time officiated as Master of the Free School at
Guernsey, and then as chaplain to Morton, Bishop of Durham, who
presented him with a rectory and a vicarage. Preferments and
honours promised to flow rapidly upon him, when the disturbed state
of the country induced him to quit England, and he travelled in the
Morea, to the Holy Land, and to Constantinople. On his return,
Charles II. appointed Dr. Basire his Chaplain in Ordinary. He died
in 1676. His sermons obtained a deserved celebrity. He wrote also
a History of the English and Scottish Presbytery.

4 A Tragi-Comedy, by Sir William Davenant; the performance took
place in the morning.

364 Diary of [London

discoursed with his Majesty about shipping, in which he
was exceeding skilful.

isth. I dined with the Duke of Ormond, who told me
there were no moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late,
and that but in one county; but it was a mistake that
spiders would not live there, only they were not poisonous.
Also, that they frequently took salmon with dogs.

16th. I presented my translation of Naud@us concern-
ing Libraries to my Lord Chancellor; but it was miser-
ably false printed.

17th. Dr. Greighton,! a Scot, author of the ‘‘ Florentine
Council,’? and a most eloquent man and admirable
Grecian, preached on Cant. vi. 13, celebrating the return
and restoration of the Church and King.

2oth. At the Royal Society, Sir William Petty proposed
divers things for the improvement of Shipping; a versatile
keel that should be on hinges, and concerning sheathing
ships with thin lead.?

1 Afterwards Bishop of Bath and Wells. His son, Dr. Robert
Creighton, while attending Charles II. in his exile, studied music, in
which he became such a proficient that his anthem, ‘‘ I will arise and
go to my Father,’’ and a service in the key of E, still maintain a
high reputation with the lovers of sacred music. He died at Wells in
the year 1736.

2 Of which more will be related hereafter. Sir William Petty, one
of the celebrities of the seventeenth century, was born at Ramsey, in
Hampshire, in 1623. He was the son of a clothier, who sent him to
the grammar-school of his native town; but at the age of fifteen he
was removed to the University of Caen, in Normandy. On his return
to England, he accepted an appointment in the navy; but with the
object only of raising enough money to enable him to travel, and
complete his education his own way. He proceeded to one of the
Dutch Universities in 1643; thence to Paris, studying anatomy and
medicine; and was again in England in 1646. In 1647, he took out a
patent for a copying-machine, which attracted towards the inventor
the notice of many men of science. Then he practised as a physician,
and resided at Oxford, where he was appointed assistant professor,
and afterwards Professor of Anatomy. He was a Fellow of Brasenose,
created M.D. in 1649, and admitted into the College of Physicians in
the following year. He was, at about the same period, Professor of
Music in Gresham College; Physician to the Army in Ireland, and
to the Lord Deputy Commissioner for the division of the lands for-
feited by the Rebels; Secretary to the Lord Deputy; and Clerk of the
Council. But having been elected for East Loo in the Parliament of
1658, he was impeached for high crimes and misdemeanours in his
Irish commission a few months afterwards, and this ended in a
deprivation of all his employments. At the Restoration, however, he
again appeared upon the scene as prominently as ever. He was Com-

1661) John Evelyn 365

24th. This night his Majesty fell into discourse with me
concerning bees, &c.

26th. I saw Hamlet Prince of Denmark played; but
now the old plays began to disgust this refined age, since
his Majesty’s being so long abroad.

28th. I dined at Chiffinch’s house-warming, in St.
James’s Park; he was his Majesty’s closet-keeper, and
had his new house full of good pictures, &c. There dined
with us Russell, Popish Bishop of Cape Verd, who was
sent out to negotiate his Majesty’s match with the Infanta
of Portugal, after the Ambassador was returned.

29th. I dined at the Countess of Peterborough’s, and
went that evening to Parson’s Green with my Lord Mor-
daunt, with whom I stayed that night.

1st December. I took leave of my Lord Peterborough,
going now to Tangier, which was to be delivered to the
English on the match with Portugal.

3rd. _ By universal suffrage of our philosophic assembly,
an order was made and registered, that I should receive
their public thanks for the honourable mention I made of
them by the name of Royal Society, in my Epistle dedi-
catory to the Lord Chancellor, before my Traduction of
Naudeus. Too great an honour for a trifle.

4th. I had much discourse with the Duke of York, con-
cerning strange cures he affirmed of a woman who
swallowed a whole ear of barley, which worked out at her
side. 1 told him of the knife swallowed ! and the pins.

I took leave of the Bishop of Cape Verd, now going in
the fleet to bring over our new Queen.

7th. 1 dined at Arundel House, the day when the
great contest in Parliament was concerning the restoring
the Duke of Norfolk; however, it was carried for him.

missioner of the Court of Claims; physician, philosopher, author, and
projector; opened lead mines, established pilchard fisheries, and
assisted in the councils of the Royal Society; invented the double-
bottomed ship to go against wind and tide, mentioned by Evelyn;
wrote a method for equalising taxation, and acted as president of a
philosophical society established in Dublin. So numerous is the list
of things he did, and the books he wrote, that it is impossible to notice
half of them. But the best and most amusing character of him is
to be found in the text. He died December 16th, 1687.

1 This refers to the Dutchman ante, p. 28, and to an extraordinary
case contained in a ‘‘ Miraculous cure of the Prussian Swallow Knife,
&c., by Dan. Lakin, P.C.,’’ quarto, London, 1642, with a woodcut
representing the object of the cure, and the size of the knife.

366 Diary of [London |

{ also presented my little trifle of Sumptuary Laws, entitled |
Tyrannus [or The Mode].

14th. I saw otter-hunting with the King, and killed
one.
16th. I saw a French Comedy acted at Whitehall.

2oth. The Bishop of Gloucester! preached at the
Abbey, at the funeral of the Bishop of Hereford, brother
to the Duke of Abermarle. It was a decent solemnity. |
There was a silver mitre, with episcopal robes, borne by
the herald before the hearse, which was followed by the
Duke his brother, and all the Bishops, with divers noble-
men.
23rd. - I heard an Italian play and sing to the guitar
with extraordinary skill before the Duke.

1661-2. 1st January. I went to London, invited to the
solemn foolery of the Prince de la Grange, at Lincoln’s
inn, where came the King, Duke, &c. It began with a
grand masque, and a formal pleading before the mock
Princes, Grandees, Nobles, and Knights of the Sun. He |
had his Lord Chancellor, Chamberlain, Treasurer, and
other Royal Officers, gloriously clad and attended. It
ended in a magnificent banquet. One Mr. Lort was the
young spark who maintained the pageantry.

6th. This evening, according to custom, his Majesty
opened the revels of that night by throwing the dice him-
self in the privy-chamber, where was a table set on
purpose, and lost his rool. (The year before he won
150ol.) The ladies also played very deep. I came away
when the Duke of Ormond had won about roool., and left
them still at passage, cards, &c. At other tables, both
there and at the Groom-porter’s, observing the wicked
folly and monstrous excess of passion amongst some —
josers ; sorry am I that such a wretched custom as play to
that excess should be countenanced in a Court, which
ought to be an example of virtue to the rest of the
Kingdom.

gth. I saw acted The Third Part of the Siege of
Rhodes. In this acted the fair and famous comedian called
Roxalana from the part she performed; and I think it was
the last, she being taken to be the Earl of Oxford’s Miss (as
at this time they began to call lewd women). It was in
recitative music.

1 Dr. William Nicholson.

1662] John Evelyn 367

1oth. Being called into his Majesty’s closet when Mr.
Cooper, the rare limner,! was crayoning of the King’s
face and head, to make the stamps for the new milled
money now contriving, I had the honour to hold the candle
whilst it was doing, he choosing the night and candle-
light for the better finding out the shadows. During this,
his Majesty discoursed with me on several things relating
to painting and graving.

11th. I dined at Arundel House, where I heard excellent
music performed by the ablest masters, both French
and English, on theorbos, viols, organs, and voices, as
an exercise against the coming of the Queen, purposely
composed for her chapel. Afterwards, my Lord Aubigny
(her Majesty’s Almoner to be) showed us his elegant lodg-
ing, and his wheel-chair for ease and motion, with divers
other curiosities; especially a kind of artificial glass, or
porcelain, adorned with relievos of paste, hard and beau-
tiful. Lord Aubigny (brother to the Duke of Lennox) was
a person of good sense, but wholly abandoned to ease and
effeminacy.

I received of Sir Peter Ball, the Queen’s Attorney, a
draught of an Act against the nuisance of the smoke of
London, to be reformed by removing several trades whick
are the cause of it, and endanger the health of the King
and his people. It was to have been offered to the Par-
liament, as his Majesty commanded.

12th. At St. James’s chapel preached, or rather
harangued, the famous orator, Monsieur Morus,? in
French. There were present the King, Duke, French
Ambassador, Lord Aubigny, Earl of Bristol, and a world
of Roman Catholics, drawn thither to hear this eloquent
Protestant.

1 There were two artists of this name, brothers, Alexander and
Samuel Cooper. The former painted landscapes and portraits, resided
at Amsterdam, and entered into the service of Queen Christina of
Sweden: the ether was a fashionable portrait painter, well known by
his characteristic likeness of Cromwell, and obtained in France and
Holland, where he lived for several years, not less reputation than he
had acquired in England. His head is engraved in Walpole’s Anec-
dotes, where there is a notice of him. He was born in 1604, and died
in 1672, The scene commemorated in the passage of Evelyn’s Diary
above-referred to has formed the subject of a cabinet picture by Mr.
Maclise, R.A.

2 Probably Alexander Morus (the antagonist of Milton), who was
here in 1662.

363 Diary of {London

15th. There was a general fast through the whole
nation, and now celebrated in London, to avert God’s
heavy judgments on this land. Great rain had fallen with-
out any frost, or seasonable cold, not only in England, but
in Sweden, and the most northern parts, being here near
as warm as at Midsummer in some years.

This solemn fast was held for the House of Commons at |
St. Margaret’s. Dr. Reeves, Dean of Windsor, preached
on Joshua, vii. 12, showing how the neglect of exacting
justice on offenders (by which he insinuated such of the
old King’s murderers as were yet reprieved and in the
Tower) was a main cause of God’s punishing a land. He
brought in that of the Gibeonites, as well as Achan and
others, concluding with an eulogy of the Parliament for
their loyalty in restoring the Bishops and Clergy, and
vindicating the Church from sacrilege.

16th. Having notice of the Duke of York’s intention
to visit my poor habitation and garden this day, I re-
turned, when he was pleased to do me that honour of his
own accord, and to stay some time viewing such things
as I had to entertain his curiosity. Afterwards, he caused
me to dine with him at the Treasurer of the Navy’s house,
and to sit with him covered at the same table. There
were his Highness, the Duke of Ormond, and several
Lords. Then they viewed some of my grounds about a
project for a receptacle for ships to be moored in, which
was laid aside as a fancy of Sir Nicholas Crisp. After this,
I accompanied the Duke to an East India vessel that lay
at Blackwall, where we had entertainment of several curi-
osities. Amongst other spirituous drinks, as punch, &c.,
they gave us Canary that had been carried to and brought
from the Indies, which was indeed incomparably good.
I returned to London with his Highness. This night was
acted before his Majesty The Widow, a lewd play.

18th. I came home to be private a little, not at all
affecting the life and hurry of Court.

24th. His Majesty entertained me with his intentions
of building his Palace of Greenwich, and quite demolishing
the old one; on which I declared my thoughts.

25th. I dined with the Trinity-Company at their house,
that Corporation being by charter fixed at Deptford.

3rd February. I went to Chelsea, to see Sir Arthur
Gorges’ house.

1662] John Evelyn 269

11th. I saw a comedy acted before the Duchess of York
at the Cockpit. The King was not at it.

17th. J went with my Lord of Bristol to see his house
at Wimbledon,! newly bought of the Queen-Mother, to
help contrive the garden after the modern. It is a delicious
place for prospect and the thickets, but the soil cold and
weeping clay. Returned that evening with Sir Henry
Bennett.

This night was buried in Westminster-Abbey the Queen
of Bohemia,? after all her sorrows and afflictions being
come to die in the arms of her nephew, the King: also
this night and the next day fell such a storm of hail,
thunder, and lightning, as never was seen the like in any
man’s memory, especially the tempest of wind, being south-
west, which subverted, besides huge trees, many houses,
innumerable chimneys (amongst others that of my parlour
at Sayes Court), and made such havoc at land and
sea, that several perished on both. Divers lamentable
fires were also kindled at this time; so exceedingly was
God’s hand against this ungrateful and vicious nation and
Court.

2oth. I returned home to repair my house, miserably
shattered by the late tempest.

24th March. I returned home with my whole family,
which had been most part of the winter, since October, at
London, in lodgings near the Abbey of Westminster.

6th April. Being of the Vestry, in the afternoon we
ordered that the communion-table should be set (as usual):
altar-wise, with a decent rail in front, as before the
Rebellion.

17th. The young Marquis of Argyle,3 whose turbulent

1 It devolved afterwards to Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, who
built a new house there, burnt down many years since. The property
afterwards passed to the Spencer family, by whom a smaller house
was built. There are two scarce and curious views of the old house,
engraved by Winstanley.

2 Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, daughter of James I., many of
whose letters will be found among the Correspondence of Evelyn.
And see ante, p. 19.

3 Archibald, ninth Earl, who, notwithstanding his father’s attainder.
which forfeited the marquisate, was permitted to inherit the ancient
Earldom of his family. Evelyn seems at once to have discovered him
in this interview to be ‘‘a man of parts,” and he greatly deplored
his subsequent fate. This has been too strikingly and beautifully told
by Lord Macaulay in his recent history (vol. ii. pp. 537-565) to require

370 Diary of ‘Hampton Court

father was executed in Scotland, came to see my garden.
He seemed a man of parts.

7th May. 1 waited on Prince Rupert to our Assembly,
where we tried several experiments in Mr. Boyle’s vacuum.
A man thrusting in his arm, upon exhaustion of the air,
had his flesh immediately swelled so as the blood was near
bursting the veins: he drawing it out, we found it all
speckled.

14th. To London, being chosen one of the Commis-
sioners for reforming the buildings, ways, streets, and in-
cumbrances, and regulating the hackney coaches in the
City of London, taking my oath before my Lord Chan-
cellor, and then went to his Majesty’s Surveyor’s Office, in
Scotland-Yard, about naming and establishing. officers,
adjourning till the 16th, when 1 went to view how St.
Martin’s Lane might be made more passable into the
Strand. There were divers gentlemen of quality in this
commission.

25th. 1 went this evening to London, in order to our
journey to Hampton Court, to see the new Queen, who,
having landed at Portsmouth, had been married to the
King a week before by the Bishop of london.

3oth. The Queen arrived with a train of Portuguese
ladies in their monstrous fardingales, or guard-infantes,
their complexions olivader! and sufficiently unagreeable.
Her Majesty in the same habit, her fore-top long and turned
aside very strangely. She was yet of the handsomest coun-
tenance of all the rest, and, though low of stature, prettily
shaped, languishing and excellent eyes, her teeth wronging
her mouth by sticking a little too far out; for the rest,
lovely enough.

31st. 1 saw the Queen at dinner; the judges came to
compliment her arrival, and, after them, the Duke of
Ormond brought me to kiss her hand.

2nd June. The Lord Mayor and Aldermen made their
addresses to the Queen, presenting her 1000l. in gold. Now
saw | her Portuguese ladies, and the Guarda-damas, or
further allusion here. The reader may be also referred to Lord Lind-
say’s entertaining Lives of the Lindsays, vol. ii. pp. 146-155.

1 Of a dark olive complexion. It has been noticed in other accounts
that Catharine of Braganza’s Portuguese Ladies of Honour, who
came over with her, were uncommonly ill-favoured, and disagreeable

in their appearance. See Faithorne’s curious print of the Queen in the
costume here described.

1662] John Evelyn 371

Mother of her Maids,! and the old knight, a lock of whose
hair quite covered the rest of his bald pate, bound on by
a thread, very oddly. 1 saw the rich gondola sent to his
Majesty from the State of Venice; but it was not compar-
able for swiftness to our common wherries, though man-
aged by Venetians.

4th. Went to visit the Earl of Bristol, at Wimbledon.

8th. I saw her Majesty at supper privately in her bed-
chamber.

gth. 1 heard the Queen’s Portugal music, consisting of
pipes, harps, and very ill voices.

Hampton Court is as noble and uniform a pile, and as
capacious as any Gothic architecture can have made it.
There is an incomparable furniture in it, especially hang-
ings designed by Raphael, very rich with gold; also many
rare pictures, especially the Cesarean Triumphs of Andrea
Mantegna, formerly the Duke of Mantua’s; of the tapes-
tries, I believe the world can show nothing nobler of the
kind than the stories of Abraham and Tobit. The gallery
of horns is very particular for the vast beams of stags, elks,
antelopes, &c. The Queen’s bed was an embroidery of
silver on crimson velvet, and cost 80o0ol., being a present
made by the States of Holland when his Majesty returned,
and had formerly been given by them to our King’s sister,
the Princess of Orange, and, being bought of her again,
was now presented to the King. The great looking-glass
and toilet, of beaten and massive gold, was given by the
Queen-Mother. The Queen brought over with her from
Portugal such Indian cabinets as had never before been
seen here. The great hall is a most magnificent room.
The chapel-roof excellently fretted and gilt. I was also
curious to visit the wardrobe and tents, and other furniture
of state. The park, formerly a flat and naked piece of
ground, now planted with sweet rows of lime trees; and
the canal for water now near perfected; also the air-park.
In the garden is a rich and noble fountain, with Sirens,
statues, &c., cast in copper, by Fanelli; but no plenty of
water. The cradle-work of horn beam in the garden is, for
the perplexed twining of the trees, very observable. There
is a parterre which they call Paradise, in which is a pretty

1 The Maids of Honour had a Mother at teast as early as the reign

of Elizabeth. The office is suppose to have been abolished about the
period of the Revolution of 1688.

372 Diary of {London

banqueting house set over a cave, or cellar. All these
gardens might be exceedingly improved, as being too
narrow for such a palace.

1oth. I returned to London, and presented my His-
tory of Chalcography (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our
Society.?

tgth. I went to Albury, to visit Mr. Henry Howard,
soon after he had procured the Dukedom to be restored.
This gentleman had now compounded a debt of 200,000l.,
contracted by his grandfather. I was much obliged to that
great virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, with whom | |
stayed a fortnight.

2nd July. We hunted and killed a buck in the park, |
Mr. Howard inviting most of the gentlemen of the countrv |
near him. |

3rd. My wife met me at Woodcot, whither Mr. Howard |
accompanied me to see my son John, who had been much ©
brought up amongst Mr. Howard’s children at Arundel ©
House, till, for fear of their perverting him in the Catholic
religion, I was forced to take him home.

8th. To London, to take leave of the Duke and Duchess
of Ormond, going then into Ireland with an extraordinary
retinue.

13th. Spent some time with the Lord Chancellor,
where | had discourse with my Lord Willoughby, Governor
of Barbadoes, concerning divers particulars of that
colony.

28th. His Majesty going to sea to meet the Queen-
Mother, now coming again for England, met with such ill
weather as greatly endangered him. I went to Greenwich,
to wait on the Queen, now landed.

30th. To London, where was a meeting about Charit-
able Uses, and particularly to inquire how the City
had disposed of the revenues of Gresham College, and
why the salaries of the professors there were no better
improved. I was on this commission, with divers Bishops
and Lords of the Council; but little was the progress we
could make.

3ist. I sat with the Commissioners about reforming
buildings and streets of London, and we ordered the paving —
of the way from St. James’s North, which was a quagmire,
and also of the Haymarket about Piqudillo [Piccadilly], and

1 See Evelyn’s ‘*‘ Miscellaneous Writings,’’ 4to. p. 243.

1662] John Evelyn 373

agreed upon instructions to be printed and published for
the better keeping the streets clean.

ist August. Mr. H. Howard, his brothers Charles,
Edward, Bernard, Philip,! now the Queen’s Almoner (all
brothers of the Duke of Norfolk, still in Italy), came witha
great train, and dined with me; Mr. H. Howard leaving
with me his eldest and youngest sons, Henry and Thomas,
for three or four days, my son, John, having been sometime
bred up in their father’s house.

4th. Come to see me the old Countess of Devonshire,?
with that excellent and worthy person, my Lord her son,
from Roehampton.

5th. To London, and next day to Hampton Court, about
my purchase, and took leave of Sir R. Fanshawe,? now
going Ambassador to Portugal.

13th. Our Charter being now passed under the broad
Seal, constituting us a corporation under the name of the
Royal Society for the improvement of natural knowledge
by experiment, was this day read, and was all that was
done this afternoon, being very large.

14th. 1 sat on the commission for Charitable Uses, the
Lord Mayor and others of the Mercers’ Company being
summoned, to answer some complaints of the Professors,
grounded on a clause in the will of Sir Thomas Gresham,
the founder.

This afternoon, the Queen-Mother, with the Earl of St.
Alban’s and many great ladies and persons, was pleased
to honour my poor villa with her presence, and to accept of
a collation. She was exceedingly pleased, and staid till
very late in the evening.

1 Since Cardinal at Rome. Evelyn’s Note.

2? Christian, Countess of Devonshire. Of considerable celebrity for
her devotion, her hospitality, and her great care in the management
of her son's affairs; she was esteemed also as a patroness of the wits
of the age, who frequently met at her house; and her joyalty and
exertions to promote the Restoration, obtained her additional repute.
Charles II. frequently visited her at this place with the Queen-Mother
and the Royal Family. There is a life of her, written by Mr.
Pomfret.

38 Sir Richard Fanshawe, equally eminent at this period as a
diplomatist and as a poet. In the former position he acted as ambas-
sador to the courts of Spain and Portugal; in the latter translated the
Pastor Fido of Guarini, and the Lusiad of Camoens. Born 1608;
died 1666. His wife was Anne, eldest daughter of Sir John Harrison,
of Balls, Hertfordshire.

374 Diary of [London

1sth. Came my Lord Chancellor (the Earl of Clarendon)
and his lady, his purse and mace borne before him, to visit
me. They were likewise collationed with us, and were very
merry. They had all been our old acquaintance in exile,
and indeed this great person had ever been my friend. His
son, Lord Cornbury, was here, too.

17th. Being the Sunday when the Common Prayer-
Book, reformed and ordered to be used for the future, —
was appointed to be read, and the solemn League and
Covenant to be abjured by all the incumbents of England
under penalty of losing their livings; our vicar read it |
this morning.

2oth. There were strong guards in the city this day, |
apprehending some tumults, many of the Presbyterian |
ministers not conforming. I dined with the Vice~-Chamber-
lain, and then went to see the Queen-Mother, who was
pleased to give me many thanks for the entertainment she
received at my house, when she recounted to me many
observable stories of the sagacity of some dogs she
formerly had.

2ist. I was admitted and then sworn one of the Council
of the Royal Society, being nominated in his Majesty’s
original grant to be of this Council for the regulation of
the Society, and making laws and statutes conducible to
its establishment and progress, for which we now set apart
every Wednesday morning till they were all finished. Lord
Viscount Brouncker (that excellent mathematician) was _
also by his Majesty, our founder, nominated our first
President. The King gave us the arms of England to be
borne in a canton in our arms, and sent us a mace of silver
gilt, of the same fashion and bigness as those carried before
his Majesty, to be borne before our president on meeting
days. It was brought by Sir Gilbert Talbot, Master of his
Majesty’s Jewel-house.

22nd. I dined with my Lord Brouncker and Sir Robert
Murray, and then went to consult about a new-modelled
ship at Lambeth, the intention being to reduce that art to
as certain a method as any other part of architecture.

23rd. 1 was spectator of the most magnificent triumph
that ever floated on the Thames,! considering the innu-

1 An account of this solemnity was published in ‘‘ Aqua Triumph-
alis; being a true relation of the honourable City of London enter-
taining their sacred Majesties upon the River of Thames, and welcom-

1662] John Evelyn 375

merable boats and vessels, dressed and adorned with all
imaginable pomp, but, above all, the thrones, arches,
pageants, and other representations, stately barges of the
Lord Mayor and Companies, with various inventions, music
and peals of ordnance both from the vessels and the shore,
going to meet and conduct the new Queen from Hampton
Court to Whitehall, at the first time of her coming to
town. In my opinion, it far exceeded all the Venetian
Bucentoras, &c., on the Ascension, when they go to espouse
the Adriatic. His Majesty and the Queen came in an
antique-shaped open vessel, covered with a state, or canopy,
of cloth of gold, made in form of a cupola, supported with
high Corinthian pillars, wreathed with flowers, festoons
and garlands. I was in our new-built vessel, sailing
amongst them.

2oth. The Council and Fellows of the Royal Society
went in a body to Whitehall, to acknowledge his Majesty’s
royal grace in granting our Charter, and vouchsafing to
be himself our Founder; when the President made an elo-
quent speech, to which his Majesty gave a gracious reply,
and we all kissed his hand. Next day, we went in like
manner with our address to my Lord Chancellor, who had
much promoted our patent: he received us with extra-
ordinary favour. In the evening, I went to the Queen-
Mother’s Court, and had much discourse with her.

1st September. Being invited by Lord Berkeley, I went
to Durdans,! where dined his Majesty, the Queen, Duke,
Duchess, Prince Rupert, Prince Edward, and abundance of
noblemen. I went, after dinner, to visit my brother of
Woodcot, my sister having been delivered of a son a little
before, but who had now been two days dead.

ath. Commission for Charitable Uses, my Lord Mayor
and Aldermen being again summoned, and the improve-
ments of Sir Thomas Gresham’s estate examined. There
were present the Bishop of London, the Lord Chief Justice,
and the King’s Attorney.

6th. Dined with me Sir Edward Walker, Garter King-
at-Arms, Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, and several
others.

17t2. We now resolved that the Arms of the Society

ing them from Hampton Court to Whitehall, &c. Engraved by John
Tathan,’’ folio, 1662. See Gentleman’s Magazine, vol. xciv. ii. 516.
1 At Epsom.

376 Diar y of [London

should be a field Argent, with a canton of the arms of
England; the supporters two talbots Argent: crest, an
eagle Or holding a shield with the like arms of England,
viz., three lions. The words Nullius in verbd. It was
presented to his Majesty for his approbation, and orders
given to Garter King-at-Arms to pass the diploma of their
office for it.

2oth. I presented a petition to his Majesty about my
own concerns, and afterwards accompanied him to Mon-
sieur Febure, his chymist (and who had formerly been my
master in Paris), to see his accurate preparation for the
composing Sir Walter Raleigh’s rare cordial: he made a
learned discourse before his Majesty in French on each
ingredient.

27th. Came to visit me Sir George Saville,! grandson |
to the learned Sir Henry Saville, who published St. Chry- |
sostom. Sir George was a witty gentleman, if not a little |
too prompt and daring.

3rd October. I was invited to the College of Physicians,
where Dr. Meret,? a learned man and library-keeper,
showed me the library, theatre for anatomy, and divers
natural curiosities; the statue and epigram under it of that
renowned physician, Dr. Harvey, discoverer of the circula- —
tion of the blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, Sir William |
Paddy’s and other pictures of men famous in their faculty.

Visited Mr. Wright,? a Scotchman, who had lived long
at Rome, and was esteemed a good painter. The pictures
of the Judges at Guildhall are of his hand, and so are some
pieces in Whitehall, as the roof in his Majesty’s old bed-
chamber, being Astrea, the St. Catherine, and a chimney-
piece in the Queen’s privy chamber; but his best, in my
opinion, is Lacy, the famous Roscius or comedian, whom
he has painted in three dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian
minister, and a Scotch highlander in his plaid.4 It is in his
Majesty’s dining-room at Windsor. He had at his house
an excellent collection, especially that small piece of Cor-
reggio, Scotus of de la Marca, a design of Paulo; and,

1 Afterwards the celebrated Marquis of Halifax.

3 Christopher Merret, a celebrated physician and naturalist, and
fellow of the Royal Society. 8 Ante, p. 335-

4 A private etching from this picture was made in 1825 by William
Hopkins, one of the Court pages. Mr. John Lacy is represented in

his three principal characters, namely, Teague, in the Committee;
Scruple, in the Cheats; and Galliard, in the Variety.

1662) John Evelyn 3777

above all, those ruins of Polydore, with some good agates
and medals, especially a Scipio, and a Cesar’s head of
old.
sh 15th. I this day delivered my Discourse concerning
Forest-Trees to the Society, upon occasion of certain
queries sent to us by the Commissioners of his Majesty’s
Navy, being the first book that was printed by order
of the Society, and by their printer, since it was a Cor-
poration.

16th. 1 saw Volpone acted at Court before their
Majesties.

21st. To the Queen-Mother’s Court, where her Majesty
related to us divers passages of her escapes during the
Rebellion and wars in England.

28th. To Court in the evening, where the Queen-
Mother, the Queen-Consort, and his Majesty, being adver-
tised of some disturbance, forbore to go to the Lord
Mayor’s show and feast appointed next day, the new Queen
not having yet seen that triumph.

29th. Was my Lord Mayor’s Show,! with a number of
sumptuous pageants, speeches, and verses. I was stand-
ing in a house in Cheapside against the place prepared for
their Majesties. The Prince and heir of Denmark was there,
but not our King. There were also the maids of honour. I
went to Court this evening, and had much discourse with
Dr. Basiers,? one of his Majesty’s chaplains, the great
traveller, who showed me the syngraphs and original sub-
scriptions of divers eastern patriarchs and Asian churches
to our confession.

4th November. I was invited to the wedding of the
daughter of Sir George Carteret, (the Treasurer of the
Navy and King’s Vice-Chamberlain), married to Sir
Nicholas Slaning, Knight of the Bath, by the Bishop of
London, in the Savoy chapel; after which was an extra-
ordinary feast.

5th. The Council of the Royal Society met to amend
the Statutes, and dined together: afterwards meeting at
Gresham College, where was a discourse suggested by me,
concerning planting his Majesty’s Forest of Dean with oak,

1 Sir John Robinson, Knt. and Bart. Clothworker. The pageant on
this occasion, which was the same as in the preceding year (see note,
ante, p. 363), was at the Charge of the Clothworkers’ Company.

3 Isaac Basire. See ante, p. 363.

378 Diary of (London

now so much exhausted of the choicest ship-timber in the
world.

20th. Dined with the Comptroller, Sir Hugh Pollard;
afterwards, saw ‘‘ The Young Admiral’’! acted before
the King.

21st. Spent the evening at Court, Sir Kenelm Digby
giving me great thanks for my Sylva.?

27th. Went to London to see the entrance of the
Russian Ambassador, whom his Majesty ordered to be
received with much state, the Emperor not only having
been kind to his Majesty in his distress, but banishing all |
commerce with our nation during the Rebellion.

First, the City Companies and Trained Bands were all
in their stations: his Majesty’s Army and Guards in great |
order. His Excellency came in a very rich coach, with some ©
of his chief attendants; many of the rest on horseback,
clad in their vests, after the Eastern manner, rich furs,
caps, and carrying the presents, some carrying hawks, furs, |
teeth, bows, &c. It was a very magnificent show.

1 dined with the Master of the Mint,3 where was old Sir |
Ralph Freeman;* passing my evening at the Queen-
Mother’s Court; at night, saw acted The Committee, a —
ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard, where the mimic, Lacy,
acted the Irish footman to admiration.

30th. St. Andrew’s day. Invited by the Dean of West-
minster 5 to his consecration-dinner and ceremony, on his |
being made Bishop of Worcester. Dr. Bolton preached in —
the Abbey Church; then followed the consecration by the
Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Salisbury, &c.
After this, was one of the most plentiful and magnificent
dinners that in my life I ever saw; it cost near 600l. as |
was informed. Here were the Judges, nobility, clergy, and
gentlemen innumerable, this Bishop being universally be-
loved for his sweet and gentle disposition. He was author
of those Characters which go under the name of Blount.®
He translated his late Majesty’s Icon into Latin, was Clerk
of his Closet, Chaplain, Dean of Westminster, and yet a
most humble, meek, and cheerful man, an excellent scholar,

A Tragi-Comedy by James Shirley.

Discourse on Forest-Trees. See preceding page.

Mr. Slingsby. 4 Of Betchworth, in Surrey.
Dr. John Earle. Translated afterwards to Salisbury.
Several times printed, and still read with some interest.

@e @ te we

1662] John Evelyn 379

and rare preacher. I had the honour to be loved by
him. He married me at Paris, during his Majesty’s
and the Church’s exile. When I took leave of him, he
brought me to the cloisters in his episcopal habit. I
then went to prayers at Whitehall, where I passed that
evening.

ist December. Waving seen the strange and wonderful
dexterity of the sliders on the new canal in St. James’s
Park, performed before their Majesties by divers gentle-
men and others with skates, after the manner of the
Hollanders, with what swiftness they pass, how suddenly
they stop in full career upon the ice; 1 went home by water,
but not without exceeding difficulty, the Thames being
frozen, great flakes of ice encompassing our boat.

17th. I saw acted before the King The Law against
Lovers.

21st. One of his Majesty’s chaplains preached; after
which, instead of the ancient, grave, and solemn wind music
accompanying the organ, was introduced a concert of
twenty-four violins between every pause, after the French
fantastical light way, better suiting a tavern, or playhouse,
than a church. This was the first time of change, and now
we no more heard the cornet which gave life to the organ;
that instrument quite left off in which the English were so
skilful. I dined at Mr. Povey’s, where I talked with
Cromer, a great musician.

23rd. I went with Sir George Tuke, to hear the
comedians con and repeat his new comedy, The Adventures
of Five Hours, a play whose plot was taken out of the
famous Spanish poet, Calderon.

27th. I visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph.

29th. Saw the audience of the Muscovy Ambassador,
which was with extraordinary state, his retinue being
numerous, all clad in vests of several colours, with buskins,
after the Eastern manner! their caps of fur; tunics, richly
embroidered with gold and pearls, made a glorious show.
The King being seated under a canopy in the Banqueting-
house, the Secretary of the Embassy went before the
Ambassador in a grave march, holding up his master’s
letters of credence in a crimson taffeta scarf before his fore-
head. The Ambassador then delivered it with a profound

1 By Sir William Davenant, a hoth-potch out of Measure for
Measure and Much Ado about Nothing.

I 220 10)

380 Diary of (London

reverence to the King, who gave it to our Secretary of
State: it was written in a long and lofty style. Then came
in the presents, borne by 165 of his retinue, consisting of
mantles and other large pieces lined with sable, black fox,
and ermine; Persian carpets, the ground cloth of gold and
velvet; hawks, such as they said never came the like;
horses said to be Persian; bows and arrows, &c. These
borne by so long a train rendered it very extraordinary.
Wind music played all the while in the galleries above.
This finished, the Ambassador was conveyed by the master
of the ceremonies to York-House, where he was treated
with a banquet which cost 200l. as I was assured.}

1662-3. 7th January. At night, I saw the ball, in
which his Majesty danced with several great ladies.

8th. I went to see my kinsman, Sir George Tuke’s
comedy acted at the Duke’s theatre, which took so univers-
ally, that it was acted for some weeks every day, and it was
believed it would be worth to the comedians 4ool. or 5ool.
The plot was incomparable; but the language stiff and
formal.

1oth. I saw a ball again at Court, danced by the King,
the Duke, and ladies, in great pomp.

21st. Dined at Mr. Treasurer’s of the Household, Sir
Charles Berkeley’s, where were the Earl of Oxford,? Lord
Bellassis, Lord Gerard, Sir Andrew Scrope, Sir William
Coventry, Dr. Fraser, Mr. Windham, and others.

1 ‘* The Czar of Muscovy sent an Ambassador to compliment King
Charles II. on his Restoration. The King sent the Earl] of Carlisle as
his Ambassador to Moscow, to desire the re-establishment of the
ancient privileges of the English merchants at Archangel, which had
been taken away by the Czar, who, abhorring the murder of the
King’s father, accused them as favourers of it. But, by the means
of the Czar’s ministers, his Lordship was very ill received, and met
with what he deemed affronts, and had no success as to his demands,
so that at coming away he refused the presents sent him by the Czar.
The Czar sent an Ambassador to England to complain of Lord Car-
lisle’s conduct; but his Lordship vindicated himself so well, that the
King told the Ambassador he saw no reason to condemn his Lord-
ship’s conduct.’’ Relation of the Embassy by G. M., authenticated by
Lord Carlisle, printed 1669.

2 Aubrey de Vere, twentieth and last Earl. He had served as a
military officer, both at home and abroad; and his services were
rewarded at the Restoration by a seat at the Privy Council, the
dignity of Knight of the Garter, and the appointment of Lord-Lieu-
tenant of Essex. He died in 1702, leaving an only daughter, married
to the Duke of St. Alban’s.

1663] John Evelyn 381

5th February. I saw The Wild Gallant, a comedy ;! and
was at the great ball at Court, where his Majesty, the
Queen, &c., danced.

6th. Dined at my Lord Mayor’s, Sir John Robinson,
Lieutenant of the Tower.

15th. This night some villains brake into my house and
study below, and robbed me to the value of 6ol. in plate,
money, and goods ;—this being the third time I have been
thus plundered.

26th March. I sat at the Commission of Sewers, where
was a great case pleaded by his Majesty’s counsel;
he having built a wall over a water-course, denied the
jurisdiction of the Court. The verdict went for the
plaintiff.2

30th April. Came his Majesty to honour my poor villa
with his presence, viewing the gardens and even every room
of the house, and was pleased to take a small refreshment.
There were with him the Duke of Richmond, Earl of St.
Alban’s, Lord Lauderdale, and several persons of quality.

14th May. Dined with my Lord Mordaunt, and thence
went to Barnes, to visit my excellent and ingenious friend,
Abraham Cowley.

17th. I saluted the old Bishop of Durham, Dr. Cosin,
to whom I had been kind, and assisted in his exile; but
which he little remembered in his greatness.

29th. Dr. Creighton preached his extravagant sermon
at St. Margaret’s, before the House of Commons.

30th. This morning was passed my lease of Sayes
Court from the Crown, for the finishing of which I had
been obliged to make such frequent journeyings to London.
I returned this evening, having seen the Russian Ambas-
sador take leave of their Majesties with great solemnity.

and July. I saw the great Masque at Court, and lay
that night at Arundel-house.

4th. I saw his Majesty’s Guards, being of horse and
foot 4000, led by the General, the Duke of Albemarle,
in extraordinary equipage and gallantry, consisting of
gentlemen of quality and veteran soldiers, excellently clad,
mounted, and ordered, drawn up in battalia before their
Majesties in Hyde Park, where the old Earl of Cleveland

1 By Dryden. It was unsuccessful on the first representation, but

was subsequently altered to the form in which it now appears.
2 That is, against the King.

382 Diary of [London

trailed a pike, and led the right-hand file in a foot com-
pany, commanded by the Lord Wentworth, his son; a
worthy spectacle and example, being both of them old and
valiant soldiers. This was to show the French Ambassador,
Monsieur Comminges; there being a great assembly of
coaches, &c., in the park.

7th. Dined at the Comptroller’s; after dinner, we met
at the Commission about the streets, and to regulate
hackney-coaches, also to make up our accounts to pass the
Exchequer.

16th. A most extraordinary wet and cold season.

Sir George Carteret, Treasurer of the Navy, had now
married his daughter, Caroline, to Sir Thomas Scott, of
Scott’s-hall, in Kent.! This gentleman was thought to be
the son of Prince Rupert.

and August. This evening, { accompanied Mr.
Treasurer and Vice-Chamberlain Carteret to his lately-
married son-in-law’s, Sir Thomas Scott, to Scott’s-hall.
We took barge as far as Gravesend, and thence by post
to Rochester, whence in coach and six horses to Scott’s-
hall; a right noble seat, uniformly built, with a handsome
gallery. It stands in a park well stored, the land fat and
good. We were exceedingly feasted by the young knight,
and in his pretty chapel heard an excellent sermon by his
chaplain. In the afternoon, preached the learned Sir
Norton Knatchbull,? (who has a noble seat hard by, and
a plantation of stately fir-trees.) In the church-yard of the
parish church I measured an over-grown yew-tree, that was
eighteen of my paces in compass, out of some branches of
which, torn off by the winds, were sawed divers goodly
planks.

1oth. We returned by Sir Norton’s, whose house is
likewise in a park. This gentleman is a worthy person,
and learned critic, especially in Greek and Hebrew. Pass- —
ing by Chatham, we saw his Majesty’s Royal Navy, and
dined at Commissioner Pett’s,3 master-builder there, who

1 See Hasted’s account of Kent, iii. p. 293.

2 Ibid, ii. p. 444.

3 A monument to him in Deptford church bears a most pompous
inscription: ‘‘ Qui fuit patriz decus, patriz suz magnum muni-
mentum ;’’ to the effect that he not only restored our naval affairs, but
he invented that excellent and new ornament of the Navy which we

call Frigate, formidable to our enemies, to us most useful and safe:
he was to be esteemed, indeed, by this invention, the Noah of his age,

1663] John Evelyn 383

showed me his study and models, with other curiosities
belonging to his art. He is esteemed for the most skilful
shipbuilder in the world. He hath a pretty garden and
banqueting-house, pots, statues, Cypresses, resembling
some villas about Rome. After a great feast we rode post
to Gravesend, and, sending the coach to London, came by
barge home that night.

18th. To London, to see my Lord Chancellor, where
I had discourse with my Lord Archbishop of Canter-
bury and the Bishop of Winchester, who enjoined me to
write to Dr. Pierce, President of Magdalen College,
Oxford, about a letter sent him by Dr. Goff, a Romish
Oratorian, concerning an answer to Dean Cressy’s late
book.

20th. I dined at the Comptroller’s [of the Household]
with the Earl of Oxford and Mr. Ashburnham; it was said
it should be the last of the public diets, or tables, at Court,
it being determined to put down the old hospitality, at
which was great murmuring, considering his Majesty’s vast
revenue and the plenty of the nation. Hence, I went to
sit in a Committee, to consider about the regulation of
the Mint at the Tower; in which some small progress was
made.

27th. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick’s, Secretary to my
Lord Treasurer, who showed me the accounts and other
private matters relating to the revenue. Thence, to the
Commissioners of the Mint, particularly about coinage,
and bringing his Majesty’s rate from fifteen to ten shillings
for every pound weight of gold.

31st. I was invited to the translation of Dr. Sheldon,
Bishop of London, from that see to Canterbury, the cere-
mony performed at Lambeth. First, went his Grace’s
mace-bearer, steward, treasurer, comptroller, all in their

which, like another Ark, had snatched from shipwreck our rights and
our dominion of the seas.

1 Of Dr. Pierce, who was also Dean of Salisbury, Wood speaks very
unfavourably in his Fasti. He was engaged in many disputes both in
his College and at Salisbury. Dean Cressy was bred in the Church
of England, and appointed Canon of Windsor and Dean of Leighlin
in Ireland, in the time of King Charles I., but the troubles of that
time interposed to prevent his receiving benefit from either ; he after-
wards became a Roman Catholic. The book here referred to is
Exomologetis, on the motives of his conversion. See ‘‘ Correspond-
ence,” ii. 139.

384 Diary of [London

gowns, and with white staves; next, the Bishops in
their habits, eight in number; Dr. Sweate, Dean of the
Arches, Dr. Exton, Judge of the Admiralty, Sir William
Merick, Judge of the Prerogative Court, with divers advo-
cates in scarlet. After divine service in the chapel, per-
formed with music extraordinary, Dr. French and Dr.
Stradling (his Grace’s chaplains) said prayers. The Arch-
bishop in a private room looking into the chapel, the
Bishops who were Commissioners went up to a table placed
before the altar, and sat round it in chairs. Then, Dr.
Chaworth presented the commission under the broad seal
to the Bishop of Winchester, and it was read by Dr.
Sweate. After which, the Vicar-General went to the vestry,
and brought his Grace into the chapel, his other officers
marching before. He being presented to the Commis-
sioners, was seated in a great arm-chair at one end of the
table, when the definitive sentence was read by the Bishop
of Winchester, and subscribed by all the Bishops, and
proclamation was three times made at the chapel door,
which was then set open for any to enter, and give their
exceptions; if any they had. This done, we all went to
dinner in the great hall to a mighty feast. There were
present all the nobility in town, the Lord Mayor of London,
Sheriffs, Duke of Albemarle, &c. My Lord Archbishop did
in particular most civilly welcome me. So going to visit
my Lady Needham, who lived at Lambeth, I went over to
London.

1oth September. I dined with Mr. Treasurer of the
Navy, where, sitting by Mr. Secretary Morice, we had
much discourse about books and authors, he being a learned
man, and had a good collection.

24th October. Mr. Edward Phillips came to be my
son’s preceptor: this gentleman was nephew to Milton,
who wrote against Salmasius’s Defensio; but was not
at all infected with his principles, though brought up by
him.

sth November. Dr. South, my Lord Chancellor’s chap-
lain, preached at Westminster Abbey an excellent discourse
concerning obedience to magistrates, against the pontifi-
cians and sectaries. I afterwards dined at Sir Philip
Warwick’s, where was much company.

1 The lives of Edward and John Phillips, nephews and pupils of
the poet, were published in 1815, by William Godwin.

1664) John Evelyn 385

6th. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn of Godstone off
from being Sheriff of Surrey.}

30th. Was the first anniversary of our Society for the
choice of new officers, according to the tenour of our patent
and institution. It being St. Andrew’s day, who was our
patron, each fellow wore a St. Andrew’s cross of ribbon
on the crown of his hat. After the election, we dined
together, his Majesty sending us venison.

16th December. To our Society, where Mr. P. Balle,
our Treasurer at the late election, presented the Society
with an iron chest, having three locks, and in it rool. as
a gift.

18th. Dined with the gentlemen of his Majesty’s bed-
chamber at Whitehall.

1663-4, 2nd January. To Barn Elms, to see Abraham
Cowley after his sickness; and returned that evening to
London.

4th February. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick’s; thence,
to Court, where I had discourse with the King about an
invention of glass-grenades, and several other subjects.

sth. I saw The Indian Queen acted, a tragedy well
written,2 so beautiful with rich scenes as the like had
never been seen here, or haply (except rarely) elsewhere on
a mercenary theatre.

16th. I presented my Sylva to the Society; and next
day to his Majesty, to whom it was dedicated ; also to the
Lord Treasurer and the Lord Chancellor.

24th. My Lord George Berkeley, of Durdans, and Sir
Samuel Tuke, came to visit me. We went on board Sir
William Petty’s double-bottomed vessel, and so to London.

26th. Dined with my Lord Chancellor; and thence to
Court, where I had great thanks for my Sylva, and long
discourse with the King of divers particulars.

2nd March. Went to London to distribute some of my
books amongst friends.

4th. Came to dine with me the Earl of Lauderdale, his
Majesty’s great favourite, and Secretary of Scotland; the
Earl of Teviot; my Lord Viscount Brouncker, President of
the Royal Society; Dr. Wilkins, Dean of Ripon; Sir
Robert Murray, and Mr. Hooke, Curator to the Society.3

1 In which he succeeded.

2 By Sir Robert Howard and Dryden.
2 Robert Hooke, born in 1635. He pursued his studies in the

386 Diary of [London

This spring, I planted the Home-field and West-field
about Sayes Court with elms, being the same year that the
elms were planted by his Majesty in Greenwich Park.

goth. I went to the Tower, to sit in commission about
regulating the Mint; and now it was that the fine new-
milled coin, both of white money and guineas, was estab-
lished.

26th. It pleased God to take away my son, Richard,
now a month old, yet without any sickness of danger
perceivably, being to all appearance a most likely child;
we suspected much the nurse had over-lain him; to our
extreme sorrow, being now again reduced to one: but
God’s will be done.

29th. After evening prayers, was my child buried near
the rest of his brothers—my very dear children.

27th April. Saw a facetious comedy, called Love in a
Tub; and supped at Mr. Secretary Bennett’s.

3rd May. Came the Earl of Kent, my kinsman, and his
lady, to visit us.

5th. Went with some company a journey of pleasure
on the water, in a barge, with music, and at Mortlake had
a great banquet, returning late. The occasion was, Sir
Robert Carr now courting Mrs. Bennett, sister to the
Secretary of State.

6th. Went to see Mr. Wright the painter’s collection
of rare shells, &c.

8th June. To our Society, to which his Majesty had sent
that wonderful horn of the fish which struck a dangerous
hole in the keel of a ship in the India sea, which, being
broken off with the violence of the fish, and left in the
timber, preserved it from foundering.

gth. Sir Samuel Tuke! being this morning married to
a lady, kinswoman to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, by the
Queen’s Lord Almoner, L. Aubigny in St. James’s chapel,
solemnized his wedding-night at my house with much
company.

znd. One Tomson, a Jesuit, showed me such a collec-
abstract sciences with singular success, obtaining a great reputation
among his most learned contemporaries. He was professor of
Geometry in Gresham College, wrote several treatises on different
branches of philosophy, and entered into controversies with Hevelius,
and on Newton’s Theology of Light and Colours. Created M.D. in
1691, and died in March, 1702-3.

1 A Roman Catholic.

1664] John Evelyn 387

tion of rarities, sent from the Jesuits of Japan and China to
their Order at Paris, as a present to be reserved in their
repository, but brought to London by the East India ships
for them, as in my life I had not seen. The chief things
were, rhinoceros’s horns; glorious vests, wrought and
embroidered on cloth of gold, but with such lively colours,
that for splendour and vividness we have nothing in Europe
that approaches it; a girdle studded with agates and rubies
of great value and size; knives, of so keen an edge as one
could not touch them, nor was the metal of our colour, but
more pale and livid; fans, like those our ladies use, but
much larger, and with long handles curiously carved and
filled with Chinese characters: a sort of paper very broad,
thin, and fine, like abortive parchment, and exquisitely
polished, of an amber yellow, exceeding glorious and
pretty to look on, and seeming to be like that which my
Lord Verulam describes in his Nova Atlantis ; several other
sorts of paper, some written, others printed; prints of land-
scapes, their idols, saints, pagods, of most ugly serpentine
monstrous and hideous shapes, to which they paid devotion ;
pictures of men and countries, rarely painted on a sort of
gummed calico, transparent as glass; flowers, trees, beasts,
birds, &c., excellently wrought in a kind of sleeve silk, very
natural; divers drugs that our druggists and physicians
could make nothing of, especially one which the Jesuit
called Lac Tigridis: it looked like a fungus, but was
weighty like metal, yet was a concretion, or coagulation, of
some other matter; several book MSS.; a grammar of the
language written in Spanish; with innumerable other
rarities.

1st July. Went to see Mr. Povey’s! elegant house in
Lincoln’s-Inn-Fields, where the perspective in his court,
painted by Streeter, is indeed excellent, with the vases in
imitation of porphyry, and fountains; the inlaying of his
closet; above all, his pretty cellar and ranging of his wine-
bottles.

7th. To Court, where I subscribed to Sir Arthur Slings-
by’s lottery, a desperate debt owing me long since in
Paris.

14th. I went to take leave of the two Mr. Howards,

1 Post, vol. ii. p. 108 Doubtless, this was the same Mr. Povey,
one o! the Masters of Requests, ‘‘ a nice contriver of all elegancies,
and exceedingly formal."

] 220 *o

383 Diary of [London

now going to Paris, and brought them as far as Bromley ;
thence, to Eltham, to see Sir John Shaw’s new house, now
building; the place is pleasant, if not too wet, but the
house not well contrived; especially the roof and rooms
too low pitched, and the kitchen where the cellars should
be; the orangery and aviary handsome, and a very large
plantation about it.

19th. To London, to see the event of the lottery which
his Majesty had permitted Sir Arthur Slingsby to set up for
one day in the Banqueting-House, at Whitehall; I gain-
ing only a trifle, as well as did the King, Queen-Consort,
and Queen-Mother, for near thirty lots; which was thought
to be contrived very unhandsomely by the master of it, who
was, in truth, a mere shark.

21st. I dined with my Lord Treasurer at Southampton-
House, where his Lordship used me with singular human-
ity. I went in the afternoon to Chelsea, to wait on the
Duke of Ormond, and returned to London.

28th. Came to see me Monsieur Zuylichem, Secretary to
the Prince of Orange, an excellent Latin poet, a rare
lutinist, with Monsieur Oudart.

3rd August. To London; a concert of excellent musi-
cians, especially one Mr. Berkenshaw, that rare artist, who
invented a mathematical way of composure very extra-
ordinary, true as to the exact rules of art, but without
much harmony.}

8th. Came the sad and unexpected news of the death of
Lady Cotton, wife to my brother George, a most excellent
lady.

gth. Went with my brother Richard to Wotton, to visit
and comfort my disconsolate brother; and on the 13th,
saw my friend, Mr. Charles Howard, at Dipden, near
Dorking.

16th. I went to see Sir William Ducie’s house at
Charlton, which he purchased of my excellent friend, Sir
Henry Newton, now nobly furnished.

22nd. I went from London to Wotton, to assist at the
funeral of my sister-in-law, the Lady Cotton, buried in our
dormitory there, she being put up in lead. Dr. Owen made
a profitable and pathetic discourse, concluding with an
eulogy of that virtuous, pious, and deserving lady. It was

1 Berkenshaw was music master to Pepys, who informs us that he
gave him five pounds for five weeks’ lessons.

1664] John Evelyn 389

a very solemn funeral, with about fifty mourners. I came
back next day with my wife to London.

and September. Came Constantine Huygens, Signor de
Zuylichem, Sir Robert Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew,
and other friends, to spend the day with us.

sth October. To our Society. There was brought a
new-invented instrument of music, being a harpsichord with
gut-strings, sounding like a concert of viols with an
organ, made vocal by a wheel, and a zone of parchment
that rubbed horizontally against the strings.

6th. 1 heard the anniversary oration in praise of Dr.
Harvey, in the Anatomy Theatre in the College of Physi-
cians; after which I was invited by Dr. Alston, the Presi-
dent, to a magnificent feast.

yth. I dined at Sir Nicholas Strood’s, one of the
Masters of Chancery, in Great St. Bartholomew’s ; passing
the evening at Whitehall, with the Queen, &c.

8th. Sir William Curtius, his Majesty’s Resident in
Germany, came to visit me; he was a wise and learned
gentleman, and, as he told me, scholar to Henry Alstedius,
the Encyclopedist.

15th. Dined at the Lord Chancellor’s, where was the
Duke of Ormond, Earl of Cork, and Bishop of Winchester.
After dinner, my Lord Chancellor and his lady carried me
in their coach to see their palace! (for he now lived at
Worcester-House in the Strand), buiiding at the upper end
of St. James’s-street, and to project the garden. In the
evening, I presented him with my book on Architecture,?
as before I had done to his Majesty and the Queen-Mother.
His lordship caused me to stay with him in his bed-
chamber, discoursing of several matters very late, even
till he was going into his bed.

17th. I went with my Lord Viscount Cornbury,
to Cornbury, in Oxfordshire, to assist him in the plant-
ing of the park, and bear him company, with Mr.
Belin and Mr. May, in a coach with six horses; dined at
Uxbridge, lay at Wycombe.

1 A large engraving of it exists. The Chancellor, in the Continua-
tion of his Life, laments his having built it, on account of the great
cost, and the unpopularity which its magnificence created. He had
little enjoyment of it, as will be seen hereafter.

2 ‘* Parallel between Ancient and Modern Architecture, originally
written in French, by Roland Freart, Sieur de Chambray,”’ and trans-
lated by Evelyn. See his ‘‘ Miscellaneous Writings,” pp. 337-348.

390 Diary of [Oxford

18th. At Oxford. Went through Woodstock, where
we beheld the destruction of that royal seat and park by the
late rebels, and arrived that evening at Cornbury, a house
lately built by the Earl of Denbigh, in the middle of a sweet
park, walled with a dry wall.! The house is of excellent
freestone, abounding in that part, (a stone that is fine, but
never sweats, or casts any damp); it is of ample dimensions,
has goodly cellars, the paving of the hall admirable for its
close laying. We designed a handsome chapel that was yet
wanting: as Mr. May had the stables, which indeed are
very fair, having set out the walks in the park and gardens.
The lodge is a pretty solitude, and the ponds very con-
venient; the park well stored.

2oth. Hence, to see the famous wells, natural and
artificial grots and fountains, called Bushell’s Wells, at
Enstone.?_ This Bushell had been Secretary to my Lord
Verulam. It is an extraordinary solitude. There he had
two mummies; a grot where he lay in a hammock, like
an Indian. Hence, we went to Dichley, an ancient seat of
the Lees, now Sir Henry Lee’s; it is a low ancient timber-
house, with a pretty bowling-green. My Lady gave us an
extraordinary dinner. This gentleman’s mother was
Countess of Rochester, who was also there, and Sir Walter
St. John. There were some pictures of their ancestors,
not ill painted; the great-grandfather had been Knight of
the Garter; there was a picture of a Pope, and our
Saviour’s head. So we returned to Cornbury.

24th. We dined at Sir Timothy Tyrill’s at Shotover.
This gentleman married the daughter and heir of Dr.
James Usher, Archbishop of Armagh, that learned prelate.
There is here in the grove a fountain of the coldest water
I ever felt, and very clear. His plantation of oaks and
other timber is very commendable. We went in the
evening to Oxford, lay at Dr. Hyde’s, principal of Mag-
dalen-Hall, (related to the Lord Chancellor), brother to the
Lord Chief-Justice and that Sir Henry Hyde, who lost his
head for his loyalty. We were handsomely entertained two

1 Some years ago the residence of Francis Almeric, created Baron
Churchill, brother of the then Duke of Marlborough.

2 Bushell published a pamphlet descriptive of his contrivances here;
and in Plott’s Oxfordshire is an engraving of the rock, fountains, &c.
belonging to it. See an account of him in the History of Surrey, vol.
iii. p. 523, and Appendix cxlix.

1664] John Evelyn 391

days. The Vice-Chancellor, who with Dr. Fell, Dean of
Christt Church, the learned Dr. Barlow, Warden of
Queem’s, and several Heads of houses, came to visit Lord
Cornbury (his father being now Chancellor of the Univer-
sity), and next day invited us all to dinner. I went to visit
Mr. Boyle (now here), whom [| found with Dr. Wallis and
Dr. Christopher Wren, in the tower of the schools, with an
inverted tube, or telescope, observing the discus of the sun
for the passing of Mercury that day before it; but the
latitude was so great that nothing appeared; so we went
to see the rarities in the Library, where the keepers showed
me my name among the benefactors. They have a cabinet
of some medals, and pictures of the muscular parts of man’s
body. Thence, to the new Theatre, now building at an
exceeding and royal expense by the Lord Archbishop of
Canterbury [Sheldon], to keep the Acts in for the future,
till now being in St. Mary’s Church. The foundation had
been newly laid, and the whole designed by that incom-
parable genius my worthy friend, Dr. Christopher Wren,
who showed me the model, not disdaining my advice in
some particulars. Thence, to see the picture on the wall
over the altar of All Souls, being the largest piece of fresco-
painting (or rather in imitation of it, for it is in oil of
turpentine) in England, not ill designed by the hand of one
Fuller; yet I fear it will not hold long. It seems too full
of nakeds for a chapel.

Thence, to New College, and the painting of Magdalen
chapel, which is on blue cloth in chiar oscuro, by one
Greenborow, being a Cana Domini, and a Last Judgment
on the wall by Fuller, as is the other, but somewhat
varied.

Next to Wadham, and the Physic Garden, where were
two large locust-trees, and as many platani (plane-trees),
and some rare plants under the culture of old Bobart.}

1 Jacob Bobart, a German, was appointed the first keeper of the
Physic Garden, at Oxford. There is a fine print of him, after Loggan,
by Burghers, dated 1675. There exists also a small whole-length of
him in the frontispiece to Vertumnus, a poem on that Oxford garden.
In this he is dressed in a long vest, with a beard. The Bobarts
remained resident in Oxford, and one of the family was bred up at
college there; but eventually quitted his studies for the profession of
the Whip, driving one of the Oxford coaches (his own property) for
many years ‘‘ with great credit.’’ In 1813 he broke his leg by an
accident; and in 1814, from the respect he had acquired by his good

392 Diary of [London

26th October. Wecame back to Beaconsfield; next day
to London, where we dined at the Lord Chancellor’s, with
my Lord Bellasis.

27th. Being casually in the privy gallery at Whitehall,
his Majesty gave me thanks before divers lords and noble-
men for my book of Architecture, and again for my Sylva, |
saying they were the best designed and useful for the matter
and subject, the best printed and designed (meaning the
taille-douces of the Parallel of Architecture) that he had
seen. He then caused me to follow him alone to one of
the windows, and asked me if I had any paper about me
unwritten, and a crayon; I presented him with both, and
then laying it on the window-stool, he with his own hands
designed to me the plot for the future building of White-
hall, together with the rooms of state, and other particulars.
After this, he talked with me of several matters, asking my
advice, in which I find his Majesty had an extraordinary
talent becoming a magnificent prince.

The same day at Council, there being Commissioners to |
be made to take care of such sick and wounded and pris-
oners of war, as might be expected upon occasion of a
succeeding war and action at sea, war being already
declared against the Hollanders, his Majesty was pleased
to nominate me to be one, with three other gentlemen, ©
parliament-men, viz. Sir William Doily, Knt. and Bart., |
Sir Thomas Clifford,! and Bullein Rheymes, Esq.; with a
saiary of 1200l. a year amongst us, besides extraordinaries
for our care and attention in time of station, each of us
being appointed to a particular district, mine falling out to
be Kent and Sussex, with power to constitute officers,
physicians, chirurgeons, provost-marshals, and to dispose
of half of the hospitals through England. After the council,
we kissed his Majesty’s hand. At this council, I heard Mr.
Solicitor Finch? plead most elegantly for the merchants
trading to the Canaries, praying for a new Charter.

29th. Was the most magnificent triumph by water
and land of the Lord Mayor.? I dined at Guildhall at

conduct, he was appointed by the University to the place of one of the
Esquire Bedels.

1 Afterwards Lord Treasurer.

3 Afterwards Earl of Nottingham, Lord Chancellor.

5 Sir John Lawrence. The pageant for the day was at the cost of
the Haberdashers’ Company.

1664] John Evelyn 393

the upper table, placed next to Sir H. Bennett, Secretary
of State, opposite to my Lord Chancellor and the Duke of
Buckingham, who sate between Monsieur Comminges, the
French Ambassador, Lord Treasurer, the Dukes of Ormond
and Albemarle, Earl of Manchester, Lord Chamberlain, and
the rest of the great officers of state. My Lord Mayor came
twice up to us, first drinking in the golden goblet his
Majesty’s health, then the French King’s as a compliment
to the Ambassador; we returned my Lord Mayor’s health,
the trumpets and drums sounding. The cheer was not to
be imagined for the plenty and rarity, with an infinite
number of persons at the tables in that ample hall. The
feast was said to cost roool. I slipped away in the crowd,
and came home late.

31st. I was this day 44 years of age; for which |
returned thanks to Almighty God, begging His merciful
protection for the year to come.

2nd November. Her Majesty, the Queen-Mother, came
across the gallery in Whitehall to give me thanks for my
book of Architecture, which I had presented to her, with
a compliment that I did by no means deserve.

16th. We chose our treasurer, clerks, and messengers,
and appointed our seal, which I ordered should be the
good Samaritan, with this motto, Fac similiter. Painters’
Hall was lent us to meet in. In the great room were
divers pictures, some reasonably good, that had been
given to the Company by several of the wardens and
masters of the Company.

23rd. Our statutes now finished, were read before a full
assembly of the Royal Society.

24th. His Majesty was pleased to tell me what the
conference was with the Holland Ambassador, which, as
after I found, was the heads of the speech he made at the
re-convention of the Parliament, which now began.

2nd December. We delivered the Privy Council’s letters
to the Governors of St. Thomas’s Hospital, in Southwark,
that a moiety of the house should be reserved for such sick
and wounded as should from time to time be sent from the
fleet during the war. This being delivered at their Court,
the President and several Aldermen, Governors of that
Hospital, invited us to a great feast in Fishmongers’ Hall.

2oth. To London, our last sitting, taking order for our
personal visiting our several districts. I dined at Captain

394 Diary of [London

Cocke’s (our Treasurer), with that most ingenious gentle-
man, Matthew Wren, son to the Bishop of Ely, and Mr.
Joseph Williamson, since Secretary of State.

22nd. I went to the launching of a new ship of two
bottoms, invented by Sir William Petty, on which were
various opinions; his Majesty being present, gave her the
name of the Experiment: so I returned home, where |
found Sir Humphry Winch, who spent the day with
me.

This year I planted the lower grove next the pond at
Sayes Court. It was now exceeding cold, and a hard long
frosty season, and the comet was very visible.

28th. Some of my poor neighbours dined with me, and
others of my tenants, according to my annual custom.

gist. Set my affairs in order, gave God praise for His
mercies the past year, and prepared for the reception of
the Holy Sacrament, which I partook of the next day, after
hearing our minister on the 4th of Galatians, verses 4, 5, of
the mystery of our Blessed Saviour’s Incarnation.

1664-5. 2nd January. This day was published by me
that part of The Mystery of Jesuitism? translated and

1 Sir Joseph Williamson, P.R.S. became distinguished for his
ability and services in the House of Commons. He represented Thet-
ford and Rochester in several parliaments. A considerable part of his
wealth was expended in useful charities, or in promoting learning;
and the places for which he had been member received much of his
bounty. At his death he left 60001. to Queen’s College, Oxford, where
he was educated, and at Rochester he founded a mathematical school,
in which Garrick was one of the pupils placed under the first master,
Mr. John Colson, afterwards mathematical professor at Cambridge.
A whole-length portrait of Williamson still hangs in the Town-hall,
at Rochester.

2 In a letter to Lord Cornbury, 2 Jan. 1664, Evelyn says, ‘‘ I] came
to present your Lordship with your own book [in the margin is
written, ‘ The other part of the Mystery of Jesuitism translated and
published by me ’]: I left it with my Lord your father, because I would
not suffer it to be public till he had first seen it, who, on your Lord-
ship’s score, has so just a title to it. The particulars, which you will |
find added after the 4th letter, are extracted out of several curious ©
papers and passages lying by me, which for being very apposite to the
controversy, I thought fit to annex, in danger otherwise to have never
been produced.’’—In another letter to Lord Cornbury, gth Feb. 1664,
Evelyn says he undertook the translation by command of his Lord- ©
ship, and of his father the Lord Chancellor.

The authors of the Biographia Britannica speak of The Mystery of
Jesuitism as one volume; but in the library at Wotton there are three,
in duodecimo, with the subjoined titles and contents. The second
in order is that translated by Evelyn.

665) John Evelyn 395

ollected by me, though without my name, containing the
Imagimary Heresy, with four letters and other pieces.

4th January. 1 went in a coach, it being excessive sharp
frost and snow, towards Dover and other parts of Kent,
to settle physicians, chirurgeons, agents, marshals, and
other officers in all the sea-ports, to take care of such as
should be set on shore, wounded, sick, or prisoners, in
pursuance of our commission reaching from the North
Foreland, in Kent, to Portsmouth, in Hampshire. The rest
of the ports in England were allotted to the other Commis-
sioners. That evening, I came to Rochester, where I
delivered the Privy Council’s letter to the Mayor to receive
orders from me.

sth. I arrived at Canterbury, and went to the cathedral,
exceedingly well repaired since his Majesty’s return.

6th. To Dover, where Colonel Stroode, Lieutenant of
the Castle, having received the letter I brought him from
the Duke of Albemarle, made me lodge in it, and I was
splendidly treated, assisting me from place to place. Here

1. Les Provinciales, or, the Mystery of Jesuitism, discovered in cer-
tain letters written upon occasion of the present difference at Sor-
bonne between the Jansenists and the Molinists, displaying the per-
nicious Maxims of the late Casuists. The second edition corrected
with large additionals. Sicut Serpentes. London: Printed for Richard
Royston, and are to be sold by Robert Clave at the Stag’s Head near
St. Gregorie’s church in St. Paul’s Church-yard, 1658.—pp. 360.
Additionals, pp. 147. At the end are the names of some of the most
eminent Casuists.

2. Mvorfpiov rijs *Avoulas. That is, Another Part of the Mystery
of Jesuitism ; or the new Heresy of the Jesuits, publicly maintained at
Paris, in the College of Clermont, the xii of December MDCLXI.
declared to all the Bishops of France. According to the copy printed
at Paris. Together with the Imaginary Heresy, in three Letters,
with divers other particulars relating to the abominable Mystery.
Never before published in English. London: Printed by James Flesher
for Richard Royston, bookseller to his most sacred Majesty, 1664—3
letters, pp. 206. Copy of a Letter from the Reverend Father Valerian,
a Capuchin, to Pope Alexander 7th, pp. 207-239. The sense of the
French Church, pp. 240-254.

3. The Moral Practice of the Jesuits demonstrated by many remark-
able histories of their actions in all parts of the world. Collected
either from books of the greatest authority, or most certain and
unquestionable records and memorials. By the Doctors of the Sor-
bonne. Faithfully translated into English (by Dr. Tongue; see here-
after, under 1678, Oct. 1). London: Printed for Simon Miller, at the
Star at the west end of St. Paul’s, 1670. See Evelyn’s ‘‘ Miscellaneous
Writings,’”’ p. 499.

396 Diar yi of {London

I settled my first Deputy. The Mayor and officers of the
Customs were very civil to me.

oth. To Deal.—1oth. To Sandwich, a pretty town,
about two miles from the sea. The Mayor and officers of
the Customs were very diligent to serve me. I visited
the forts in the way, and returned that night to Canter-
bury.

11th. To Rochester, when ! took order to settle officers
at Chatham.

12th. To Gravesend, and returned home. A cold, busy,
but not unpleasant journey.

25th. This night being at Whitehall, his Majesty came
to me standing in the withdrawing-room, and gave me
thanks for publishing The Mysteries of Jesuitism, which
he said he had carried two days in his pocket, read it, and
encouraged me; at which I did not a little wonder: I sup-
pose Sir Robert Murray had given it to him.

27th. Dined at the Lord Chancellor’s, who caused
me after dinner to sit two or three hours alone with him in
his bedchamber.

2nd February. I saw a Masque performed at Coart, by
six gentlemen and six ladies, surprising his Majesty, it
being Candlemas-day.

8th. Ash Wednesday. I visited our prisoners at
Chelsea College, and to examine how the marshal and
sutlers behaved. These were prisoners taken in the war; |
they only complained that their bread was too fine. I dined
at Sir Henry Herbert’s, Master of the Revels.

goth. Dined at my Lord Treasurer’s, the Earl of South-—
ampton, in Bloomsbury, where he was building a noble
square, or piazza, a little town; his own house stands too—
low, some noble rooms, a pretty cedar chapel, a naked
garden to the north, but good air.2__ I had much discourse
with his Lordship, whom I found to be a person of extra-
ordinary parts, but a valetudinarian.—I went to St. James’s —
Park, where I saw various animals, and examined the
throat of the Onocrotylus, or pelican, a fowl between a
stork and a swan; a melancholy water-fowl, brought from

1 The Italians mean simply a square by their piazzas.

3 Afterwards called Bedford-House, the town residence for many
years of the Russell family. It was pulled down in 1800; and on the
site and the adjoining fields were erected Russell Square, Bedford
Place, Russell Place, &c.

1665] John Evelyn 397

Astracan by the Russian Ambassador; it was diverting to
see how he would toss up and turn a flat fish, plaice, or
flounder, to get it right into his gullet at its lower beak,
which, being filmy, stretches to a prodigious wideness when
it devours a great fish. Here was also a small water-fowl,
not bigger than a moorhen, that went almost quite erect,
like the penguin of America; it would eat as much fish as
its whole body weighed; I never saw so unsatiable a
devourer, yet the body did not appear to swell the bigger.
The Solan geese here are also great devourers, and are said
soon to exhaust all the fish ina pond. Here was a curious
sort of poultry not much exceeding the size of a tame
pigeon, with legs so short as their crops seemed to touch
the earth; a milk-white raven; a stork, which was a rarity
at this season, seeing he was loose, and could fly loftily ; two
Balearian cranes, one of which having had one of his legs
broken and cut off above the knee, had a wooden or boxen
leg and thigh, with a joint so accurately made that the
creature could walk and use it as well as if it had been
natural; it was made by a soldier. The park was at this
time stored with numerous flocks of several sorts of
ordinary and extraordinary wild fowl, breeding about the
Decoy, which for being near so great a city, and among
such a concourse of soldiers and people, is a singular and
diverting thing. There were also deer of several countries,
white; spotted like leopards; antelopes, an elk, red deer,
roebucks, stags, Guinea goats, Arabian sheep, &c. There
were withy-pots, or nests, for the wild fowl to lay their eggs
in, a little above the surface of the water.

23rd February. I was invited to a great feast at Mr.
Rich’s (a relation of my Wife’s, now Reader at Lincoln’s
Inn); where was the Duke of Monmouth, the Archbishop
of Canterbury, Bishops of London and Winchester, the
Speaker of the House of Commons, divers of the Judges,
and several other great men.

24th. Dr. Fell, Canon of Christ Church, preached
before the King, on 15 ch. Romans, v. 2, a very formal
discourse, and in blank verse, according to his manner;
however, he is a good man.—Mr. Philips, preceptor to my
son, went to be with the Earl of Pembroke’s son, my
Lord Herbert.

2nd March. J] went with his Majesty into the lobby
behind the House of Lords, where I saw the King and the

398 Diar y of {London

rest of the Lords robe themselves, and got into the House
of Lords in a corner near the woolsack, on which the Lord
Chancellor sits next below the throne: the King sate in all
the regalia, the crown-imperial on his head, the sceptre and
globe, &c. The Duke of Albemarle bare the sword, the
Duke of Ormond, the cap of dignity. The rest of the Lords
robed in their places :—a most splendid and august con-
vention. Then came the Speaker and the House of Com-
mons, and at the bar made a speech, and afterwards pre-
sented several bills, a nod only passing them, the clerk
saying, Le Roy le veult, as to public bilis; as to private,
Soit faite comme il est desiré. Then, his Majesty made a
handsome but short speech, commanding my Lord Privy
Seal to prorogue the Parliament, which he did, the Chan-
cellor being ill and absent. I had not before seen this
ceremony.

goth March. I went to receive the poor creatures that
were saved out of the London frigate, biown up by acci-
dent, with above 200 men.

29th. Went to Goring House,! now Mr. Secretary
Bennett’s, ill built, but the place capable of being made
a pretty villa. His Majesty was now finishing the Decoy
in the Park.

2nd April. Took order about some prisoners sent from
Captain Allen’s ship, taken in the Solomon, viz., the brave
men who defended her so gallantly.

5th. Was a day of public humiliation and for success
of this terrible war, begun doubtless at secret instigation
of the French to weaken the States and Protestant interest.
Prodigious preparations on both sides.

6th. In the afternoon, I saw acted Mustapha, a tragedy
written by the Earl of Orrery.

11th. To London, being now left the only Commissioner
to take all necessary orders how to exchange, remove, and
keep prisoners, dispose of hospitals, &c.; the rest of the
Commissioners being gone to their several districts, in
expectation of a sudden engagement.

19th. Invited to a great dinner at the Trinity House,
where | had business with the Commissioners of the Navy,
and to receive the second soool. impressed for the service
of the sick and wounded prisoners.

1 Buckingham Palace is now built on the site. There is a smal —
print of Goring House, as it then stood.

1665) John Evelyn 399

20th. To Whitehall, to the King, who called me into his
bed-chamber as he was dressing, to whom I showed the
letter written to me from the Duke of York from the fleet,
giving me notice of young Evertzen, and some considerable
commanders newly taken in fight with the Dartmouth
and Diamond frigates,! whom he had sent me as prisoners
at war; I went to know of his Majesty how he would have
me treat them, when he commanded me to bring the young
captain to him, and to take the word of the Dutch Ambas-
sador (who yet remained here) for the other, that he should
render himself to me whenever I called on him, and not

1 In the Life of King James II. from his own papers (printed 1816),
after describing the engagement with the Dutch fleet in 1665, it is
added, ‘‘ Soon after this, three Dutch-men-of-war, which had been
seen for some time to the windward of us, and were looking out for
their own fleet, bore down in order to join it. One of them was a
great ship of above 80 guns, which for want of some repairs had
been left by Cornelius Evertzen to his son, with orders to follow; the
other two were not of the same force. These being to windward,
endeavoured to join the head of their fleet, and young Evertzen, being
a mettled man, and having a mind to distinguish himself, resolved to
run on board of the Plymouth, hoping to bear her down; but Sir
Thomas Allen, perceiving by Evertzen’s working what his design was,
brought his ship to at once, so that Evertzen missed his aim, though
he came so near it that the yard-arms of both ships touched, and
they gave each other a severe broadside in passing; after which,
Evertzen and the other two made a shift to join their own fleet, and
Sir Thomas Allen continued leading as before, till finding himself
extremely disabled, he was forced to lie by.’’ P. 410.—‘‘ After this
engagement was over, and the Dutch had retired to their own ports,
the Duke of York had brought back the English fleet to the Nore, he
took care to have his scouts abroad, two of which, the Diamond,
Captain Golding, and the Yarmouth, Captain Ayliffe, being sent to
observe the motions of the Dutch, they happened to meet with two
of the direction-ships (as the Dutch call them) of 40 odd guns each;
the biggest was commanded by one Masters, the other by young
Cornelius Evertzen, who, though ours were of somewhat better force,
did not avoid engaging. At the first broadside, Golding was slain;
but his Lieutenant, Davis, managed the fight so well, as did the
Captain of the Yarmouth, that after some hours’ dispute, both the
Dutch ships were taken, though bravely defended, for they lost many
men, and were very much disabled, before they struck. The Duke
gave young Evertzen his liberty, in consideration of his father, Cor-
nelius, who had performed several services for the King before his
Restoration; and his R. H. freed also the other captain for having
defended himself so well, and made Lieutenant Davis captain of one
of those prizes.’’ P. 419. In the remark that the Duke gave young
Evertzen his liberty, he must mean that he recommended this to the
King; for we see by the text, that he was sent to London, and
presented to the King by Evelyn.

400 Diary of {London

stir without leave. Upon which I desired more guards, the
prison being Chelsea House. I went also to Lord Arlington
(the Secretary Bennett lately made a Lord) about other
business. Dined at my Lord Chancellor’s; none with him
but Sir Sackville Crowe, formerly Ambassador at Con-
stantinople ; we were very cheerful and merry.
24th April. I presented young Captain Evertzen (eldest
son of Cornelius, Vice-Admiral of Zealand, and nephew of
John, now Admiral, a most valiant person) to his Majesty
in his bedchamber. The King gave him his hand to
kiss, and restored him his liberty; asked many questions
concerning the fight (it being the first blood drawn), his
Majesty remembering the many civilities he had formerly
received from his relations abroad, who had now so much
interest in that considerable Province. Then, I was com-
manded to go with him to the Holland Ambassador, where
he was to stay for his passport, and I was to give him fifty
pieces in broad gold. Next day I had the Ambassador’s |
parole for the other Captain, taken in Captain Allen’s fight
before Calais. I gave the King an account of what I had
done, and afterwards asked the same favour for another
Captain, which his Majesty gave me. |
28th. I went to Tunbridge, to see a solemn exercise at |
the free-school there.!
Having taken orders with my marshal about my pris-
oners, and with the doctor and chirurgeon to attend the
wounded enemies, and of our own men, | went to London
again, and visited my charge, several with legs and arms ©
off ; miserable objects, God knows.
16th May. To London, to consider of the poor orphans
and widows made by this bloody beginning, and whose
husbands and relations perished in the London frigate, of
which there were fifty widows, and forty-five of them with ©
child.
26th. Totreat with the Holland Ambassador at Chelsea,
for release of divers prisoners of war in Holland on
exchange here. After dinner, being called into the Council-
Chamber at Whitehall, I gave his Majesty an account of
1 At the annual visitation of the Skinners’ Company of London, who
are the patrons, at which verses, themes, &c. are spoken before them
by the senior scholars. The Rev. Vicesimus Knox (D.D. by an
American University), a writer of books that had some popularity

half a century ago, was many years master of Tunbridge school; and
the office has since been held by better scholars.

665) John Evelyn 401

what I had done, informing him of the vast charge upon us,
now amounting to no less than roool. weekly.

29th. 1 went with my little boy to my district in Kent,
to make up accounts with my officers. Visited the
Governor at Dover Castle, where were some of my
prisoners,

3rd June. In my return went to Gravesend; the fleets
being just now engaged, gave special orders for my officers
to be ready to receive the wounded and prisoners.

5th. To London, to speak with his Majesty and the
Duke of Albemarle for horse and foot guards for the
prisoners at war, committed more particularly to my charge
by a commission apart.

8th. I went again to his Grace, thence to the Council,
and moved for another privy seal for 20,000l., and that |
might have the disposal of the Savoy Hospital for the sick
and wounded; all which was granted. Hence to the Royal
Society, to refresh among the philosophers.

Came news of his highness’s victory, which indeed might
have been a complete one, and at once ended the war, had
it been pursued, but the cowardice of some, or treachery,
or both, frustrated that. We had, however, bonfires, bells,
and rejoicing in the city. Next day, the goth, I had instant
orders to repair to the Downs, so as I got to Rochester this
evening. Next day, I lay at Deal, where | found all in
readiness : but, the fleet being hindered by contrary winds,
1 came away on the 12th, and went to Dover, and returned
to Deal; and on the 13th, hearing the fleet was at Solbay,
I went homeward, and lay at Chatham, and on the 14th,
I got home. On the 15th, came the eldest son of the present
Secretary of State to the French King, with much other
company, to dine with me. After dinner, 1 went with him
to London, to speak to my Lord General for more guards,
and gave his Majesty an account of my journey to the
coasts under my inspection. I also waited on his Royal
Highness, now come triumphant from the fleet, gotten into
repair. See the whole history of this conflict in my History
of the Dutch War.}

2zoth. To London, and represented the state of the sick
and wounded to his Majesty in Council, for want of money ;

1 See the curious notices also in Pepys’s Diary, lately edited by

Lord Braybrooke with very large additions to the previous text, of
which a new edition has recently been published by Mr. Bohn.

402 Diary of [Chatham

he ordered [ should apply to my Lord Treasurer and Chan-
cellor of the Exchequer, upon what funds to raise the
money promised. We also presented to his Majesty divers
expedients for retrenchment of the charge.

This evening making my court to the Duke, I spake to
Monsieur Comminges, the French Ambassador, and his
Highness granted me six prisoners, Embdeners, who were
desirous to go to the Barbadoes with a merchant.

22nd. We waited on the Chancellor of the Exchequer,
and got an Order of Council for our money to be paid
to the Treasurer of the Navy for our Receivers.

23rd. I dined with Sir Robert Paston, since Earl of
Yarmouth, and saw the Duke of Verneuille, base brother
to the Queen-Mother, a handsome old man, a great hunter.

The Duke of York told us that, when we were in fight,
his dog sought out absolutely the very securest place in all
the vessel.—In the afternoon, I saw the pompous reception
and audience of Ei Conde de Molino, the Spanish Ambas-
sador, in the Banquetiag-house, both their Majesties sitting
together under the canopy of state.

30th. To Chatham; and, rst July, to the fleet with Lord
Sandwich, now Admiral, with whom | went in a pinnace to
the Buoy of the Nore, where the whole fleet rode at anchor;
went on board the Prince, of ninety brass ordnance, haply
the best ship in the world, both for building and sailing ;
she had 700 men. They made a great huzza, or shout, at our
approach, three times. Here we dined with many noble-
men, gentlemen, and volunteers, served in plate and excel-
lent meat of all sorts. After dinner, came his Majesty, the
Duke, and Prince Rupert. Here I saw the King knight
Captain Custance for behaving so bravely in the late fight.
It was surprising to behold the good order, decency, and
plenty of all things in a vessel so full of men. The ship
received a hundred cannon shot in her body. Then I went
on board the Charles, to which after a gun was shot off,
came all the flag-officers to his Majesty, who there held a_
General Council, which determined that his Royal Highness
should adventure himself no more this summer. I came
away late, having seen the most glorious fleet that ever
spread sails. We returned in his Majesty’s yacht with my
Lord Sandwich and Mr. Vice-Chamberlain, landing at
Chatham on Sunday morning. !

5th July. I took order for 150 men, who had been

665) John Evelyn 403

ecoverred of their wounds, to be carried on board the Clove
Tree, (Carolus Quintus, and Zealand, ships that had been
taken lby us in the fight; and so returned home.

7th. To London, to Sir William Coventry; and so to
Sion, where his Majesty sat at Council during the con-
tagion : when business was over, I viewed that seat belong-
ing to the Earl of Northumberland, built out of an old
nunnery, of stone, and fair enough, but more celebrated for
the garden than it deserves: yet there is excellent wall-
fruit, and a pretty fountain; nothing else extraordinary.

oth. I went to Hampton-Court, where now the whole
Court was, to solicit for money ; to carry intercepted letters ;
confer again with Sir William Coventry, the Duke’s secre-
tary; and so home, having dined with Mr. Secretary
Morice.

16th. There died of the plague in London this week
1100; and in the week following, above 2000. Two houses
were Shut up in our parish.

2nd August. A solemn fast through England to depre-
cate God’s displeasure against the land by pestilence and
war; Our Doctor preaching on 26 Levit. v. 41, 42, that the
means to obtain remission of punishment was not to repine
at it; but humbly to submit to it.

3rd. Came his Grace the Duke of Albemarle, Lord
General of all his Majesty’s Forces, to visit me, and carried
me to dine with him.

4th. I went to Wotton with my Son and his tutor, Mr.
Bohun, Fellow of New College (recommended to me by Dr.
Wilkins, and the President of New College, Oxford), for
fear of the pestilence, still increasing in London and its
environs. On my return, [ called at Durdans, where I found
Dr. Wilkins, Sir William Petty, and Mr. Hooke, contriving
chariots, new rigging for ships, a wheel for one to run
races in, and other mechanical inventions; perhaps three
such persons together were not to be found elsewhere in
Europe, for parts and ingenuity.

8th. 1 waited on the Duke of Albemarle, who was
resolved to stay at the Cock-pit, in St. James’s Park. Died
this week in London, 4000.

15th. There perished this week sooo.

28th. The contagion still increasing, and growing now
all about us, I sent my wife and whole family (two or three
necessary servants excepted) to my brother’s at Wotton,

404 Diary of (London

being resolved to stay at my house myself, and to look after
my charge, trusting in the providence and goodness of God.

sth September. To Chatham, to inspect my charge, with
gool. in my coach.

7th. Came home, there perishing near 10,000 poor crea-
tures weekly; however, I went all along the city and
suburbs from Kent Street to St. James’s, a dismal passage,
and dangerous to see so many coffins exposed in the streets,
now thin of people; the shops shut up, and all in mournful’
silence, not knowing whose turn it might be next. I went
to the Duke of Albemarle for a pest-ship, to wait on our
infected men, who were not a few.

14th. I went to Wotton; and on 16th September, to
visit old Secretary Nicholas, being now at his new purchase
of West Horsley, once mortgaged to me by Lord Viscount
Montague: a pretty dry seat on the Down. Returned to
Wotton.

17th. Receiving a letter from Lord Sandwich of a defeat
given to the Dutch, I was forced to travel all Sunday. I
was exceedingly perplexed to find that near 3000 prisoners
were sent to me to dispose of, being more than I had places
fit to receive and guard.

25th. My Lord Admiral being come from the fleet to
Greenwich, I went thence with him to the Cock-pit, to
consult with the Duke of Albemarle. I was peremptory
that, unless we had 10,000l. immediately, the prisoners
would starve, and it was proposed it should be raised out
of the East India prizes now taken by Lord Sandwich.
They being but two of the commission, and so not em-
powered to determine, sent an express to his Majesty and
Council, to know what they should do. In the meantime, I
had five vessels, with competent guards, to keep the pris-
oners in for the present, to be placed as I should think
best. After dinner (which was at the General’s) I went over
to visit his Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury, at
Lambeth.

28th. To the General again, to acquaint him of the
deplorable state of our men for want of provisions : returned
with orders.

2gth. To Erith, to quicken the sale of the prizes
lying there, with order to the commissioner who lay on
board till they should be disposed of, 500o0l. being pro-
portioned for my quarter. Then I delivered the Dutch

665) John Evelyn 405

ice-A.dmiral, who was my prisoner, to Mr. Lo... .2 of the
Marshalsea, he giving me bond in 5o0ol. to produce him at
my call. I exceedingly pitied this brave unhappy person,
who had lost with these prizes 40,000l. after 20 years’
negotiation [trading] in the East Indies. I dined in one of
these wessels, of 1200 tons, full of riches.

1st October. This afternoon, whilst at evening prayers,
tidings were brought me of the birth of a Daughter at
Wotton, after six Sons, in the same chamber I had first
took breath in, and at the first day of that month, as I
was om the last, 45 years before.

4th. The monthly fast.

11th. To London, and went through the whole City,
having occasion to alight out of the coach in several places
about business of money, when I was environed with multi-
tudes of poor pestiferous creatures begging alms : the shops
universally shut up, a dreadful prospect! I dined with my
Lord General; was to receive 10,o00l., and had guards to
convey both myself and it, and so returned home, through
God’s infinite mercy.

17th. I went to Gravesend ; next day to Chatham; thence
to Maidstone, in order to the march of 500 prisoners to
Leeds Castle, which I had hired of Lord Culpeper. I was
earnestly desired by the learned Sir Roger Twisden, and
Deputy-Lieutenants, to spare Maidstone from quartering
any of my sick flock. Here, Sir Edward Brett sent me
some horse to bring up the rear. This country, from
Rochester to Maidstone and the Downs, is very agreeable
for the prospect.

21st. I came from Gravesend, where Sir J. Griffith, the
Governor of the Fort, entertained me very handsomely.

3ist. I was this day 45 years of age, wonderfully pre-
served ; for which I blessed God for His infinite goodness
towards me.

23rd November. Went home, the contagion having now
decreased considerably.

27th. The Duke of Albemarle was going to Oxford,
where both Court and Parliament had been most part
of the summer. There was no small suspicion of my
Lord Sandwich having permitted divers commanders, who
were at the taking of the East India prizes, to break bulk,
and to take to themselves jewels, silks, &c.: though I

1 Mr. Lowman.

406 Diary of John Evelyn {London

believe some whom I could name filled their pockets, my
Lord Sandwich himself had the least share. However, he
underwent the blame, and it created him enemies, and pre-
possessed the Lord General, for he spake to me of it with
much zeal and concern, and I believe laid load enough on
Lord Sandwich at Oxford.
8th December. To my Lord Albemarle (now returned
from Oxford), who was declared General at Sea, to the no
small mortification of that excellent person the Earl of
Sandwich, whom the Duke of Albemarle not only suspected
faulty about the prizes, but less valiant; himself imagining
how easy a thing it were to confound the Hollanders, as
well now as heretofore he fought against them upon a
more disloyal interest.
25th. Kept Christmas with my hospitable Brother, at
Wotton. :
30th. To Woodcot, where I supped at my Lady Mor-
daunt’s at Ashsted, where was a room hung with pintado,
full of figures great and small, prettily representing sundry
trades and occupations of the Indians, with their habits;
here supped also Dr. Duke, a learned and facetious gentle-
man.
31st. Now blessed be God for His extraordinary mercies
and preservation of me this year, when thousands, and ten
thousands, perished, and were swept away on each side of
me, there dying in our parish this year 406 of the
pestilence !

END OF VOL. I.

EVERYMAN’S LIBRARY

By ERNEST RHYS

Yu OR HUGO said a Library was ‘an act of faith,’ and
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cnitic of Victorian times, Matthew Arnold, as their showman,

— 3 —
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With such a belief in its possibilities the old Chief (J. M. Dent)

eae ogo mak
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To him all books which lay

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